Thank goodness I found your channel. I’m new to Japanese maples but my niece has inherited a couple when her mother passed away. They need repotting next year when they’re dormant. I know exactly what to do now. She’s going to have a heart attack when I tell her but I will show her your video. I now need to find your video about the soil mix. Thanks again. Appreciate you passing on your knowledge. ❤
thank you! Good luck with the repotting, just make sure there is no heavy frost when you start the project. As long as the soil is not frozen you are good to go.
I’ve just discovered your channel and will be following along ! I am a big Acer fan and am about to start designing a Japanese garden that will have a lot of Acer trees 👍🏼
Great Video on Pruning, gave me confidence to prune my many potted maples. What I like to do to my pots is use a 1/2 inch diamond crust hole saw and make about 10 extra holes. Great drainage
Have to do this to my two Coral Bark Maples. 15 years in same pots. You gave me more confidence. Will wait until late February. Hope mine pop out like yours. Don’t want to break my nice pots. Thanks for the great video!
Hi there. Enjoy this video greatly. This is exactly how I root prune all my container shrubs & trees. Yes can be laborious but a necessity if one wants to keep a plant in a specific size container long term.
It's a relief to know that cutting roots isn't a death sentence! I have a beatiful mini acer, it's now aprox 3 ft across, blocking the path, so I want to repot and move it, but there's one thick root exiting bottom of pot and buried itself under a slab and I can't pull it free, but I was scared to cut it.
Hi, you can see the same tree in my latest video "Our entire Japanese maple collection" It would be at the 5:09 mark of the video. The leaves are still opening up so will continue to fill out in the next couple of weeks
South of the border here in Seattle....love the Canadian "prow-cess"... Great video. Question, is a balance needed to offset such a radical cutting away of the roots with a trimming of the branches? It would seem the root system is tasked and the tree may be stressed supporting the pre-existing branch structure. Thank you.
Good morning, big seahawks fan here! When a tree has been grown in a container its entire life, the structure is much smaller then the same field grown specimen so regarding balance it would not be a big concern. On the other hand, if you are moving from the garden to the container after being in the ground for many years, then yes, you would want to trim the tree prior to attempting to root prune and move into a container. There are only a few dwarf varieties that would be suitable to move from the garden to the container as most varieties would be to big after years in the soil
Hi Otto,greetings from Spain.Congratulations for your channel.When it comes to repotting I have seen some people “shower” the roots to remove the old soil.Do you think is it necessary or the system you use (without doing it) it’s been working fine for you?Thanks
We do not wash away the soil as the roots are very fibrous due to living in a container their entire life. If we are removing a tree from the garden and then potting into a container we would wash away all the soil prior to trimming the roots and placing / transplanting into a pot. Spain is a beautiful country! Very fond memories of our visit a few years ago.
Thanks Otto,interesting to see your maple has been there for so long without repotting.I think repotting is necessary when the tree is expanding its root structure when it’s young but once you have the definitive size and the final pot is good to see the tree can live without repotting for a long time.Thanks again for sharing your experience!
@@hortensio556 Yes, that is correct regarding the pot size in relation to the root size. The large pot is more then enough for a permanent home when a Japanese maple has been container grown its entire life. Of course, regular watering is essential during the dry spring and summer months
I am having issues with the maple leaves drying out. The gardner suggested to cut back the "infected" dry leaves including quite a bit of the branch. The dryness is affecting almost all the branches. Thus I might have to quite a bit. Will the Japanese Maple tree survivie this extremet pruning????
It is hard to comment without seeing the tree. It could have a diseased branch that has died off. In that case, yes cut it all away until you reach healthy wood. In general, a japanese maple will survive a hard pruning with no issues. If your entire tree is diseased then you will notice more branches will die off
Hello Otto. Is this technique done when you want to keep an adult maple in a pot for longer and with a final size, or can it also be done with approximately 5-year-old maples that are stagnant in their growth? My goal is to keep them growing in pots but end up planting them in the ground over time. Thank you!
Hello Manu When container growing you always will have the option of planting the tree into the garden at any point in its life cycle. We have transplanted container grown trees that have been in a container for many years directly into the garden. Always do your transplanting during the dormant season. And as long as the ground is not frozen, your good to go.
I have recent purchace of 5g arakawa that is root bound i want to do it in fall planting in ground is that problematic going into winter thanks for any advise.
When planting into the ground from your 5 gallon container it is not important to physically cut the roots back. And yes, wait until fall when the tree is going into its dormancy. Mid October would be good to plant. Remember, make sure your location has good drainage. You can gently pull the roots prior to planting to free them up a little. Or you can just plant into the ground and the roots will push out on their own as they establish themselves thru out the winter / spring months
Rocks can create a water column in the pot leading to wet feet. I wouldn’t go that way. I use screens over the bottom holes to make sure water flows out.
If you noticed in the video, I use larger round rocks that allow the water to flow freely thru. Also another key point is having a large drain hole or multiple drain holes. This has worked well for us now for over 35 years. And what is most important is the type of soil mix you use. A very porous mix as I have described is crucial other wise you will clog the root system and prevent water from draining and then completely plugging any type of installed screen
Hi, I'm beginner for this beautiful tree. I live in Christchurch, New Zealand and now we're in late Spring toward Summer. I recently purchased an established (still) in a 25 cm diameter plastic pot from the nursery: Palmatum Acer Shirazz. Do I have to repot it to the cement pot I bought and what is the right NPK ratio fertiliser for my plant condition? If I happen to repot the tree, what do I need to be aware of when root-pruning it. Thanks
Hi, I have video's on my channel that will answer all of your questions. It is best to watch them as it will save me trying to explain and writing out a short novel😀 Just click the playlist option on my channel and you will find all the info, describing everything you need to know in great detail We visited your beautiful country in 2023 ( March).
There should be no transplant shock as you only want to do your root pruning when the tree is fully dormant. Do not attempt to root prune your tree when it is in its active growth cycle. I do explain that in the video as well
Thanks Otto. I realize I need to repot my potted maple tree (first time). It's mid-March in Vancouver (growing zone 8b), do you think it's too late to repot?
It would be OK to repot now. Vancouver is very similar to our growing area just up the highway in chilliwack. Just don’t be too aggressive pulling the roots apart as the buds are actively pushing out the new foliage now. If you are thinking of doing a full root pruning I would wait until next year and do it between mid Jan thru Feb when the tree is completely dormant.
We have got a 20 year old red acer, and it's lost all its leaves early .They all curled up and dried , and I think it is now root bound .Would it be OK to do this now ,17th July or would I have to wait ? ,thanks for the video ,I will get a bigger pot as well ,I live in the UK
Unfortunately it sounds like a lack of watering which has resulted in the dead curled leaves. It only takes a a couple of days of lack of watering when you are in a severe hot spell. The root system goes into survival mode and cuts off the nutrition to the upper part of the tree to try and save its roots. Now IS NOT the time to remove it from the pot. Place it in a fully shaded area and water just enough to keep the root system moist. Do not over water as that will be hard on the root system as well. Wait until mid October before attempting to try and do a re & re Good luck
@@crazycressy7986 ok, and remember, regular watering is everyday, even twice a day if you have a heat wave with high winds. You want to see the water dripping thru the base of the pot when you water.
@maplesandmusic thank you ,lots of other videos say to much watering is a cause ,so I will try your plan next year ,my other 3 acres will get water every day from now on👍
@@crazycressy7986 Too much watering is only an issue when you do not have the proper soil mix for container growing. If water does not drain freely thru to the bottom of the pot then too much water is an issue. Your soil mix should only be comprised of bark mulch and sand. I do have a soil mix video as well that explains things in details. Using garden top soil will not work well in a container growing medium.
There is not a specific brand of soil mix that I do recommend. However, I do have a video as well on the soil mix for container grown Japanese maples that we specifically use. If you are purchasing a prepackaged product, make sure it has a high percentage of fir-based bark mulch. The mix needs to be very porous in order for it to have good drainage as well.
Vigoro is something I definitely would not use. It is for fruits, vegetables and flowers. Do not buy anything that already has been pre fertilized as well. Best to go to a quality nursery that sells container grown trees and ask their advice. They may have something in stock that will work for you. Japanese maples prefer and very simple, arid, and pourus mix as my soil video does show.@@madkev415
Is it ok to root prune right when the buds start pushing the leaves out? I'm in Maryland and think I may have missed my opportunity because i can't decide on a soil mixture for my Makawi Yatubusa Japanese Maple. 😢😊
Hi Scott Definitely not a good time to do a root prune when the buds are pushing out. You only want to prune roots when the tree is in its dormant period. For the short term this growing season just drive a large 12" spike ( or similar) with multiple holes into the root system from the top surface. This will enhance the air flow and allow moisture to penetrate deep when watering this season.
@@maplesandmusic Thank you I knew it but needed someone to say it to me. Thank you for the advice to get me to next year when I will be prepared to do a proper root prune. I've had it in this pot for 5 years and it's not as vigorous as it used to and should be. When you say spike do you mean like a 1/4 inch round thin metal spike?
@@maplesandmusic Hello I just noticed that I have a root that came up out of the ground and is going right next to the trunk and back down into the ground. Would it be ok to remove it or should I rip it up and replant one side of it away from the tree. Last question I promise
@@ScottyBigMoneyWithout seeing an image, it would be hard to say what to do. If it is an actual root coming up and going back down, then leave it alone. It will only add character to your container grown tree. And no problem with the questions coming in, glad to help you out.
Most often ceramic pots only come with one drainage hole. It can be a real issue when it comes to good proper drainage if the drain hole is small. The cement pot in the video only has one drain hole but it is fairly large which works well. Also the approach we use with a shallow drain rock base and then shade cloth over the drain rock ensures the drain hole will not plug. Always check for a good size drain hole when shopping for ceramic pots as many do have a good size hole
To add some helpful insight from my experience, you could also drill some extra holes in ceramic pots to get more drainage. I've done it too, as sometimes you just simply fall in love with a certain beautiful pot and have some extra work to do to fit it in your garden setup ;-) It is quite a patient and cumbersome task and you need some proper equipment, bit it's perfectly do-able. Get a specific tile drill set to make it easier, though regular stone drills also work but at all times make sure to keep the pot bottom and drill tips wet at all times while drilling the holes. Soak the pot with its bottom in a bucket of water for a few hours before you start, and then keep wetting the bottom with small splashes of water from a small bucket or plant sprayer before you aim the drill and keep repeating after a minute or so to maintain a wet drilling area at all times, and while drilling SLOWLY at all times. If you take all in account nothing will crack or break and you can add quite some extra holes in the bottom of ceramic pots. Best is to start with a small hole and then expand to your desired size in a few steps. Good luck!
Well, the root system continues to grow in the container so eventually it need to be root pruned. Otherwise you will have a tree that will become root bound and that will lead to a very unhappy tree.
很好的视频，15年的生长使它的根系长满了整个容器。这真是一个大工程，不知道我的一岁不到的moon rise 和full moon 何时才能长至这样能够为人遮阳的冠幅。祝你和你的枫树越来越好
thanks for the comments and yes the growth rate is very slow in a container growing medium
Excellent root pruning demonstration. Thank you.
Thank goodness I found your channel. I’m new to Japanese maples but my niece has inherited a couple when her mother passed away. They need repotting next year when they’re dormant. I know exactly what to do now. She’s going to have a heart attack when I tell her but I will show her your video. I now need to find your video about the soil mix. Thanks again. Appreciate you passing on your knowledge. ❤
thank you!
Good luck with the repotting, just make sure there is no heavy frost when you start the project. As long as the soil is not frozen you are good to go.
I need to do this with my ryusen maple. It’s been in the same pot for three years but don’t want to put it in a bigger pot. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, glad it helped, good luck with the repotting!
I’ve just discovered your channel and will be following along !
I am a big Acer fan and am about to start designing a Japanese garden that will have a lot of Acer trees 👍🏼
Thanks! I hope you enjoy the video's and they can help you along with your garden project!
This is very informative and inspiring. Thank you.
thanks, Glad you enjoyed it
Great Video on Pruning, gave me confidence to prune my many potted maples. What I like to do to my pots is use a 1/2 inch diamond crust hole saw and make about 10 extra holes. Great drainage
yes, excellent comment on the extra drain holes, can't have too many!
Have to do this to my two Coral Bark Maples. 15 years in same pots. You gave me more confidence. Will wait until late February. Hope mine pop out like yours. Don’t want to break my nice pots. Thanks for the great video!
You can also do the re & re late October as well if no frost. Good luck and thanks for watching
Great video!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. If I were to grade my transplanting skills overall. B+ It seems I never wait till "fully dormant"
B+ would be an excellent average to maintain!
Hi there. Enjoy this video greatly. This is exactly how I root prune all my container shrubs & trees. Yes can be laborious but a necessity if one wants to keep a plant in a specific size container long term.
good to hear!
Thank you so much! I have this Japanese Maple tree and I was so afraid to cut the roots, good to know that’s ok to do!
It's a relief to know that cutting roots isn't a death sentence! I have a beatiful mini acer, it's now aprox 3 ft across, blocking the path, so I want to repot and move it, but there's one thick root exiting bottom of pot and buried itself under a slab and I can't pull it free, but I was scared to cut it.
Just tilt the pot and cut out that root!
Very informative, think my acer needs this, will try next year, great video, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
❤❤❤❤
Excellent. Thank you
Thanks Allen, glad it was helpful for you
@@maplesandmusic it was
Hi, greetings from Argentina. A very enlightening video, just what I was looking for. Would be great to see how the tree woke up this spring.
Hi, you can see the same tree in my latest video "Our entire Japanese maple collection"
It would be at the 5:09 mark of the video. The leaves are still opening up so will continue to fill out in the next couple of weeks
South of the border here in Seattle....love the Canadian "prow-cess"... Great video. Question, is a balance needed to offset such a radical cutting away of the roots with a trimming of the branches? It would seem the root system is tasked and the tree may be stressed supporting the pre-existing branch structure. Thank you.
Good morning, big seahawks fan here!
When a tree has been grown in a container its entire life, the structure is much smaller then the same field grown specimen so regarding balance it would not be a big concern.
On the other hand, if you are moving from the garden to the container after being in the ground for many years, then yes, you would want to trim the tree prior to attempting to root prune and move into a container. There are only a few dwarf varieties that would be suitable to move from the garden to the container as most varieties would be to big after years in the soil
@@maplesandmusic good information, thanks Otto.
Great video! thank you so much for posting it! I am learning a lot from your channel.
thanks Omar, much appreciated
Hi Otto,greetings from Spain.Congratulations for your channel.When it comes to repotting I have seen some people “shower” the roots to remove the old soil.Do you think is it necessary or the system you use (without doing it) it’s been working fine for you?Thanks
We do not wash away the soil as the roots are very fibrous due to living in a container their entire life.
If we are removing a tree from the garden and then potting into a container we would wash away all the soil prior to trimming the roots and placing / transplanting into a pot.
Spain is a beautiful country! Very fond memories of our visit a few years ago.
Thanks Otto,interesting to see your maple has been there for so long without repotting.I think repotting is necessary when the tree is expanding its root structure when it’s young but once you have the definitive size and the final pot is good to see the tree can live without repotting for a long time.Thanks again for sharing your experience!
@@hortensio556 Yes, that is correct regarding the pot size in relation to the root size. The large pot is more then enough for a permanent home when a Japanese maple has been container grown its entire life. Of course, regular watering is essential during the dry spring and summer months
I am having issues with the maple leaves drying out. The gardner suggested to cut back the "infected" dry leaves including quite a bit of the branch. The dryness is affecting almost all the branches. Thus I might have to quite a bit. Will the Japanese Maple tree survivie this extremet pruning????
It is hard to comment without seeing the tree. It could have a diseased branch that has died off. In that case, yes cut it all away until you reach healthy wood.
In general, a japanese maple will survive a hard pruning with no issues. If your entire tree is diseased then you will notice more branches will die off
@@maplesandmusic Thanks Otto.
Hello Otto. Is this technique done when you want to keep an adult maple in a pot for longer and with a final size, or can it also be done with approximately 5-year-old maples that are stagnant in their growth? My goal is to keep them growing in pots but end up planting them in the ground over time. Thank you!
Hello Manu
When container growing you always will have the option of planting the tree into the garden at any point in its life cycle. We have transplanted container grown trees that have been in a container for many years directly into the garden. Always do your transplanting during the dormant season. And as long as the ground is not frozen, your good to go.
I have recent purchace of 5g arakawa that is root bound i want to do it in fall planting in ground is that problematic going into winter thanks for any advise.
When planting into the ground from your 5 gallon container it is not important to physically cut the roots back. And yes, wait until fall when the tree is going into its dormancy. Mid October would be good to plant. Remember, make sure your location has good drainage.
You can gently pull the roots prior to planting to free them up a little. Or you can just plant into the ground and the roots will push out on their own as they establish themselves thru out the winter / spring months
Rocks can create a water column in the pot leading to wet feet. I wouldn’t go that way. I use screens over the bottom holes to make sure water flows out.
If you noticed in the video, I use larger round rocks that allow the water to flow freely thru. Also another key point is having a large drain hole or multiple drain holes. This has worked well for us now for over 35 years.
And what is most important is the type of soil mix you use. A very porous mix as I have described is crucial other wise you will clog the root system and prevent water from draining and then completely plugging any type of installed screen
Hi, I'm beginner for this beautiful tree. I live in Christchurch, New Zealand and now we're in late Spring toward Summer. I recently purchased an established (still) in a 25 cm diameter plastic pot from the nursery: Palmatum Acer Shirazz. Do I have to repot it to the cement pot I bought and what is the right NPK ratio fertiliser for my plant condition? If I happen to repot the tree, what do I need to be aware of when root-pruning it. Thanks
Hi, I have video's on my channel that will answer all of your questions. It is best to watch them as it will save me trying to explain and writing out a short novel😀
Just click the playlist option on my channel and you will find all the info, describing everything you need to know in great detail
We visited your beautiful country in 2023 ( March).
How long does it take for the tree to recover from transplant shock and I'm assuming you put it in the shade until then?
There should be no transplant shock as you only want to do your root pruning when the tree is fully dormant. Do not attempt to root prune your tree when it is in its active growth cycle. I do explain that in the video as well
Hi! How much soil volume do you have (disregarding the volume taken by the rocks?) 😊
The soil volume would be relative to the pot size. The cement pot we use would be similar to a 25 gallon garden pot size
Thanks Otto. I realize I need to repot my potted maple tree (first time). It's mid-March in Vancouver (growing zone 8b), do you think it's too late to repot?
It would be OK to repot now. Vancouver is very similar to our growing area just up the highway in chilliwack. Just don’t be too aggressive pulling the roots apart as the buds are actively pushing out the new foliage now. If you are thinking of doing a full root pruning I would wait until next year and do it between mid Jan thru Feb when the tree is completely dormant.
We have got a 20 year old red acer, and it's lost all its leaves early .They all curled up and dried , and I think it is now root bound .Would it be OK to do this now ,17th July or would I have to wait ? ,thanks for the video ,I will get a bigger pot as well ,I live in the UK
Unfortunately it sounds like a lack of watering which has resulted in the dead curled leaves. It only takes a a couple of days of lack of watering when you are in a severe hot spell. The root system goes into survival mode and cuts off the nutrition to the upper part of the tree to try and save its roots. Now IS NOT the time to remove it from the pot. Place it in a fully shaded area and water just enough to keep the root system moist. Do not over water as that will be hard on the root system as well.
Wait until mid October before attempting to try and do a re & re
Good luck
@@maplesandmusic thanks ,it's been watered on a regular basis by using the finger to test the soil ,hopefully we can save it ,👍
@@crazycressy7986 ok, and remember, regular watering is everyday, even twice a day if you have a heat wave with high winds. You want to see the water dripping thru the base of the pot when you water.
@maplesandmusic thank you ,lots of other videos say to much watering is a cause ,so I will try your plan next year ,my other 3 acres will get water every day from now on👍
@@crazycressy7986 Too much watering is only an issue when you do not have the proper soil mix for container growing. If water does not drain freely thru to the bottom of the pot then too much water is an issue. Your soil mix should only be comprised of bark mulch and sand. I do have a soil mix video as well that explains things in details. Using garden top soil will not work well in a container growing medium.
Which brand of premix soil do you recommend for all maple trees? Thanks
There is not a specific brand of soil mix that I do recommend. However, I do have a video as well on the soil mix for container grown Japanese maples that we specifically use. If you are purchasing a prepackaged product, make sure it has a high percentage of fir-based bark mulch. The mix needs to be very porous in order for it to have good drainage as well.
@@maplesandmusic do you know any plotting mix will work with maple? Vigora plotting mix ok?
Vigoro is something I definitely would not use. It is for fruits, vegetables and flowers. Do not buy anything that already has been pre fertilized as well. Best to go to a quality nursery that sells container grown trees and ask their advice. They may have something in stock that will work for you.
Japanese maples prefer and very simple, arid, and pourus mix as my soil video does show.@@madkev415
Is it ok to root prune right when the buds start pushing the leaves out? I'm in Maryland and think I may have missed my opportunity because i can't decide on a soil mixture for my Makawi Yatubusa Japanese Maple. 😢😊
Hi Scott
Definitely not a good time to do a root prune when the buds are pushing out. You only want to prune roots when the tree is in its dormant period.
For the short term this growing season just drive a large 12" spike ( or similar) with multiple holes into the root system from the top surface. This will enhance the air flow and allow moisture to penetrate deep when watering this season.
@@maplesandmusic Thank you I knew it but needed someone to say it to me. Thank you for the advice to get me to next year when I will be prepared to do a proper root prune. I've had it in this pot for 5 years and it's not as vigorous as it used to and should be. When you say spike do you mean like a 1/4 inch round thin metal spike?
@@ScottyBigMoneyYes, that type of spike
@@maplesandmusic Hello I just noticed that I have a root that came up out of the ground and is going right next to the trunk and back down into the ground. Would it be ok to remove it or should I rip it up and replant one side of it away from the tree. Last question I promise
@@ScottyBigMoneyWithout seeing an image, it would be hard to say what to do. If it is an actual root coming up and going back down, then leave it alone. It will only add character to your container grown tree. And no problem with the questions coming in, glad to help you out.
I have one drainage hole in my ceramic pot. Is that enough?
Most often ceramic pots only come with one drainage hole. It can be a real issue when it comes to good proper drainage if the drain hole is small. The cement pot in the video only has one drain hole but it is fairly large which works well. Also the approach we use with a shallow drain rock base and then shade cloth over the drain rock ensures the drain hole will not plug.
Always check for a good size drain hole when shopping for ceramic pots as many do have a good size hole
To add some helpful insight from my experience, you could also drill some extra holes in ceramic pots to get more drainage. I've done it too, as sometimes you just simply fall in love with a certain beautiful pot and have some extra work to do to fit it in your garden setup ;-) It is quite a patient and cumbersome task and you need some proper equipment, bit it's perfectly do-able. Get a specific tile drill set to make it easier, though regular stone drills also work but at all times make sure to keep the pot bottom and drill tips wet at all times while drilling the holes. Soak the pot with its bottom in a bucket of water for a few hours before you start, and then keep wetting the bottom with small splashes of water from a small bucket or plant sprayer before you aim the drill and keep repeating after a minute or so to maintain a wet drilling area at all times, and while drilling SLOWLY at all times. If you take all in account nothing will crack or break and you can add quite some extra holes in the bottom of ceramic pots. Best is to start with a small hole and then expand to your desired size in a few steps. Good luck!
Why do you need to do this?
Well, the root system continues to grow in the container so eventually it need to be root pruned. Otherwise you will have a tree that will become root bound and that will lead to a very unhappy tree.