Interesting video ! A big improvement is to make a slug of metal, K&S brass works well to put inside the silicone tubing between the two shafts. I usually make a simple motor mount and attach the motor with silicone sealant. My small locomotives are an issue in terms of finding a small enough motor. I have two locos that this motor may fit in but the rest are too small.
Try the groups.io for remotor and regearing they might have a suggestion. The metal slug is a great suggestion I never thought of. Thanks for the input.
Nice job, thanks for sharing. Another good reason to replace the original open-frame motors on vintage brass steam: it allows for space in the cab where detailing and crew figures will add to realism--no more motors sticking out the back of the cab.
Great Information. A couple of questions: 1. Did you get the motor "with pins" or "without pins"? 2. What glue did you use to attach the motor to styrene cradle and and torque bar to motor/gear box? Thanks!
Hey thanks for watching . I got them without pins . Just remove the rubber backing with pliers and solder directly to the brushes . Their electrical system is very sketchy and I don’t trust their pins to make contact. I used gorilla super glue.
In lieu of silicon tubing for a drive shaft; you may wish to consider using a NWSL universal connector system- using cups and a "dog-bone" that fits between the cups. It is more durable than silicone tubing. I have done it on Rivarossi N Scale Steam Engines; and it cuts down the coffee-grinding noise that the original "V" connector had-dramatically. If NWSL parts are unavailable, try Micro-Mark. They may have a similar system compatible for HO Engines.
Another thing you may wish to try: if the motor you have can come with a longer output shaft: see if you can press on a flywheel on the shaft. If of course, there is enough room within the inside of the shell. If the flywheel, say from NWSL is too big: take it to a friend/or an associate with a lathe, to turn it down, so the Brass shell of the loco can fit over it. When upgrading an older locomotive, there is nothing like a new motor with flywheel and all-wheel tender pickup in the tender to substantially improve the loco. Some friendly tips from an N-Scale Steam Guy.
@@robertleache3450 Thanks for the tips. Definitely planning on adding wipers for all wheel pickup. In my opinion flywheels are somewhat redundant if you have a good dcc decoder.
@@Bdmrr For all-wheel pick up in the tender: most likely you will have to cut the axles of the tenders in two places; and insert/press plastic/insulated muffs between the cut axle halves to keep the wheels from shorting -out the tender circuit pickup. Another challenge: the tender floor is brass and without modification, that will short-out the tender pickup circuit. One way to get around it: use printed circuit board, with appropriate cuts/etched to keep the circuit from shorting out. Go to N Scale Net, go to the Steam Forum and PM a guy by the name of Carl Solwel. Not long ago, he improved a brass steamer. And he can give you valuable advice on your HO Project. With regards, Mr. BOB. HE ALSO may have posted on Trainboard N. Either way, he will give you good advice.
First off. Don't do any of this... get a proper can motor mount specifically for brass models as it will always line up the motor shafts correctly in line with the gearbox shaft. and it takes some time and patience to do it properly, but it's better in the long run.
Interesting video ! A big improvement is to make a slug of metal, K&S brass works well to put inside the silicone tubing between the two shafts. I usually make a simple motor mount and attach the motor with silicone sealant. My small locomotives are an issue in terms of finding a small enough motor. I have two locos that this motor may fit in but the rest are too small.
Try the groups.io for remotor and regearing they might have a suggestion. The metal slug is a great suggestion I never thought of. Thanks for the input.
Nice job, thanks for sharing. Another good reason to replace the original open-frame motors on vintage brass steam: it allows for space in the cab where detailing and crew figures will add to realism--no more motors sticking out the back of the cab.
Very true
Great Information. A couple of questions: 1. Did you get the motor "with pins" or "without pins"? 2. What glue did you use to attach the motor to styrene cradle and and torque bar to motor/gear box? Thanks!
Hey thanks for watching . I got them without pins . Just remove the rubber backing with pliers and solder directly to the brushes . Their electrical system is very sketchy and I don’t trust their pins to make contact. I used gorilla super glue.
In lieu of silicon tubing for a drive shaft; you may wish to consider using a NWSL universal connector system- using cups and a "dog-bone" that fits between the cups. It is more durable than silicone tubing. I have done it on Rivarossi N Scale Steam Engines; and it cuts down the coffee-grinding noise that the original "V" connector had-dramatically. If NWSL parts are unavailable, try Micro-Mark. They may have a similar system compatible for HO Engines.
Silicon tubings have held pretty well for me so far and others. They are held in high regard by groups.io. They are much better than rubber.
Another thing you may wish to try: if the motor you have can come with a longer output shaft: see if you can press on a flywheel on the shaft. If of course, there is enough room within the inside of the shell. If the flywheel, say from NWSL is too big: take it to a friend/or an associate with a lathe, to turn it down, so the Brass shell of the loco can fit over it. When upgrading an older locomotive, there is nothing like a new motor with flywheel and all-wheel tender pickup in the tender to substantially improve the loco. Some friendly tips from an N-Scale Steam Guy.
@@robertleache3450 Thanks for the tips. Definitely planning on adding wipers for all wheel pickup. In my opinion flywheels are somewhat redundant if you have a good dcc decoder.
@@Bdmrr For all-wheel pick up in the tender: most likely you will have to cut the axles of the tenders in two places; and insert/press plastic/insulated muffs between the cut axle halves to keep the wheels from shorting -out the tender circuit pickup. Another challenge: the tender floor is brass and without modification, that will short-out the tender pickup circuit. One way to get around it: use printed circuit board, with appropriate cuts/etched to keep the circuit from shorting out. Go to N Scale
Net, go to the Steam Forum and PM a guy by the name of Carl Solwel. Not long ago, he improved a brass steamer. And he can give you valuable advice on your HO Project. With regards, Mr. BOB. HE ALSO may have posted on Trainboard N. Either way, he will give you good advice.
Just make sure the motor shaft is coaxial with the worm shaft. Any angle will cause pulses or binding.
First off. Don't do any of this... get a proper can motor mount specifically for brass models as it will always line up the motor shafts correctly in line with the gearbox shaft. and it takes some time and patience to do it properly, but it's better in the long run.