I have a 53wd45. My right rear axel has a clunking sound when moveing tractor. Feels like some thing broke in bull gear or axel gear. Am i on the right path and how would i fix it if i am right.
@@nashsummers8050 good to know. I see a set screw/nut(which wont come out “yet” due to rust). But didn’t know there was a allen bolt. Your videos on the wd have helped alot so far. But wasnt sure on how to tackle the pulley. So figured id try to reach out.
Sorry I don't. How I went about it was using a 3/4" piece of plate steel, flipped the engine over on the stand and knocked the sleeves out. Check out the below video and fast forward to 6:30 and you can see how I went about this. Hope that helps. ua-cam.com/video/cRJRW_urbp4/v-deo.html
Good day Nash So 45 crank, power crater pistons make it a 45? I am learning don't know, back in middle 60's we got WD & dealer told us it was change to 45. Yes there is alot of stuff in water jacket. Thanks for now
Don, yes the 45 crank changes the stroke from 4 to 4 1/2" and the cone in the piston helps some but due to the longer stroke the compression is higher, which generates more hp.
Putting in the WD-45 crank and pistons is supposed to make it almost the same power as a WD-45. Other differences were things like the snap-coupler were always stanard with the WD-45, but started as options on the WD.
I have a 53wd45. My right rear axel has a clunking sound when moveing tractor. Feels like some thing broke in bull gear or axel gear. Am i on the right path and how would i fix it if i am right.
Jerry could be a number of things. Jack up the rear end and with tranny in neutral spin the wheel and see if u hear it.
How did you pull the crank pulley? Air hammer? Pulley puller?
Yes I used a puller. Make sure to pull out the Allen bolt that’s behind the main cap bolt. Sometimes it’s hard to see.
@@nashsummers8050 good to know. I see a set screw/nut(which wont come out “yet” due to rust). But didn’t know there was a allen bolt.
Your videos on the wd have helped alot so far. But wasnt sure on how to tackle the pulley. So figured id try to reach out.
Did you rotate the crank in the block without the pistons and rods to see if the crank rotated smoothly by itself?
Do you have a video of you removing the sleeves? Are they hard to get out and back in?
Sorry I don't. How I went about it was using a 3/4" piece of plate steel, flipped the engine over on the stand and knocked the sleeves out. Check out the below video and fast forward to 6:30 and you can see how I went about this. Hope that helps.
ua-cam.com/video/cRJRW_urbp4/v-deo.html
Good day Nash So 45 crank, power crater pistons make it a 45? I am learning don't know, back in middle 60's we got WD & dealer told us it was change to 45. Yes there is alot of stuff in water jacket. Thanks for now
Don, yes the 45 crank changes the stroke from 4 to 4 1/2" and the cone in the piston helps some but due to the longer stroke the compression is higher, which generates more hp.
@@nashsummers8050 OK Thanks, I would have thought piston would hit cyl head with longer stroke Thanks
@@donvoll2580 The crank is different so it doesn't allow the piston to go up any further.
Putting in the WD-45 crank and pistons is supposed to make it almost the same power as a WD-45. Other differences were things like the snap-coupler were always stanard with the WD-45, but started as options on the WD.
Love the videos and watch them all. Any chance doing a 301 complete overhaul?
Maybe at some point got these 2 I’m working on now to finish first.