There's only a small group of people that are interested in this kind of fabricating. thank you for all you do and thinking outside the box 🤜🤛👍 after struggling to find something Worthy on UA-cam you bring a ray of Hope that there's other like-minded people like myself
You have the best and easiest example on the internet period. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us! I’m doing a krosskart build. This will be how I do the rear end.
Makes sense. I had a similar idea for an off road buggy I wanted to build. I was going to use a whole rear subframe to keep it as cheap as possible. What I planned to do was weld the miata diff and install a chain ring instead of the ring gear and cut windows in the case to allow the chain to pass through.
It may be difficult to get a large enough diameter sprocket to fit in with the windowed Miata differential case. You could still use the complete subframe etc and mount the simple MX5 chain drive unit to the subframe.
Closest I've found to what I was looking for I aquired a go-kart frame for a trade, mid size.. not your little kids kart 😁 Then I was given a V Star 650 shaft drive motor w/ transmission Trying to find a way to either change to chain drive or come up with a short version shaft drive rear end for kart Keep up the good work, and thanks for thinking outside the box.. Apparently I'm not the only one..😂
I definitely could have used this 2 years ago before I mad a straight axel go-kart rear end for my miata kart powered by a gsxr1000 motor, definitely genius work my sir
Hi there I’m so gutted you retired in April I’ve just done a slight bit of research on you , this video is quality !! I’m not to steady handed etc and would much prefer to pay someone to make one for me with the housing like on westgarahes site , if you could point me in a direction to buy one built I would me appreciate it or even the one out the video 🤣 thank you Doug inspires me so much
Absolute genius! I just planned a whole new build AWD vehicle and completely overlooked the fact that I would need at least a front differential otherwise it would be very difficult to drive! Thank you
@@White_Night_Demon Have a look at Dennis Palatov's blog on the build of his 4wd prototype www.dpcars.net/dp1dsn/dd.htm Full blog here www.dpcars.net/dp1dsn/
@What's going on in Doug's Shed? thanks will check it out - been meaning to make my own ratrod that has 5 mode steering(Front, rear, all wheel, same direction and off - just for fun haha), 3 mode driving system (front drive, rear drive and all wheel drive, I believe 4WD only lets you choose either FWD or RWD but can't do AWD?), and it'd also have the option to be pedal powered (Which is why the differential is chain driven rather than a propellar shaft)and or driven by a small engine (I was thinking maybe a 2 stroke one cylinder(so I dont have to worry about changing the engine oil every so often since it gets changed when I fuel up altogether), or that yamaha 4 stroke four cylinder engine with crossplane crankshaft motobike engine (since I like its exhaust note hehe), or if I can get someone to build me one, a 2 stroke small engine v8 that is built from 8 separate chainsaw or weed wacker engines haha since no small engine 2 stroke v8 exists which means it'd have to be custom built and tuned and with a crossplane crankshaft too to boot - and that'd sound awesome!). The pedal power will most definitely help when I run out of fuel for the small engine or if it dies for whatever reasons! Hahaha I'll also see if I can use some bike gear sprokets set on the differential and add a derailer so I can fine tune the the speed on the fly like on a bike! The bulk of the torque and speed changes will be on (maybe custom built unless I can find one that fits a small engine that is also not heavy...) 3 speed + reverse gearbox that connects the drive from the pedals or the small engine that sits at the front of the ratrod. I was thinking of using plastic PVC tubing for basically the whole body and frame, those tubes you use for plumbing for light weight (And have a higher power to weight ratio when using the small engine...) but I dunno if that'll hold up, especially when I go offroading onto rocks (well small rocks obviously, I doubt I'd be able to climb big ones...hahaha) or speed bumps or whatever that isn't smooth... i have seen a few builds here on youtube where they made go karts out of them PVC piping so it must hold up, right? Hahaha But yeah, that's my plan. WIll first need to design working prototypes for each part of the vehicle before I make the real thing to actual scale for use on the ratrod.
Very cool mate, am looking to do this on an off road buggy. Great to use existing, much cheaper and well designed components that are in the millions lying idle worldwide. Keep it up
@@DougsShed I just located two Rebel 500 motors that I am going to use for the mini dump truck. They are chain drive so I am still going to have to build one or two of these. I am thinking about building a 1/2 to 3/4 size dump truck to use around the farm and put it up for sale but I believe that it will sell so fast it will make my head spin. At least that is what people tell me who hear me discuss the build. I found the coolest thing on marketplace. It is a Drill press and tapping press station that is from an old machine shop that closed sometime after the Second World War and stayed locked and sealed. I was privy to the family opening it and I made them an offer and they accepted it. I am going to try and start my UA-cam channel with a short video about it. U will send you a link when I make th video. Thanks brother.
I am building a Harley Davidson Shovelhead powered trike, this will save me a bundle. The only thing I need to add would be inboard brake rotors on the stub axles. The trike is an old-school chopper that will have no fenders and I don't want modern rotors visible at the wheels.
@@DougsShed , As I build my project I will be posting videos of it, until then I will do my research on parts and if you like you are very welcome to check out the few videos that I have and offer your suggestions if you wish.
No guts no glory.. Trying to put a shaft drive V Star 650 in mid size go-kart chain drive kart rear end/shaft drive street bike motor and transmission.. lol I have the need for speed 😂
Amazing work, I'll be transferring some of your tips to my self build lsd diff, I turned a 10mm plate and threaded to allow attachment of the cup(welded) one side and the sprocket the other 👍
I considered a jackshaft, but it will be easier to just machine a spacer and put the sprocket in line with the trans sprocket. Thanks again for the great video and information.
This is genius and well thought out my good man and actually exactly what I was looking for ( being to thick to think of something this clever myself) thanks so much for sharing appreciate it very much 👍
Appreciate the video one of the best ones on how to do it, if only mx5 stuff wasn't so expensive where i live. Agreed custom work cost as its all about the time it takes
Lots of other differentials which can be converted in similar ways. Just about every small front wheel drive car has a differential which can be converted.
You may wish to use an limited-slip type differential if you are using your crosskart on dirt/sand/mud. Probably best to look for a plate and ramp type rather than a Torsen or ATB.
Very similar to one I built a while back for a trike using Sierra diff parts. I had to get some machining done but nothing too expensive. I initially was going to mount a disc on the end of the can for parking brake but changed it to using the can as a band brake, now wish I'd stuck with the disc set up. Also was going to mount two sprockets - one for electric driven reverse but things were getting too complicated!
Yes, it does not get too hot as there are no hypoid gears constantly revolving. I did make a 3D printed oil/grease retaining cover for one differential. I painted it inside and out to make sure that it was oil resistant.
Wow - thanks for all the details. Just found your channel and this first video I’ve seen immediately deserved a subscription. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your content. 👍👍😎👍👍
I really live what you’ve done here. Great idea and completely useful. I am looking to build a buggy for my daughter to cruise around my lake property and I’d like to make a 4WD for her and this is perfect but I need two haha. Could you tell me where you sourced the bearings. I’m living in Ecuador so I will likely need to source parts in the US.
Have a look on ebay.com for US suppliers Found this one SBPF207-35 35mm housed bearings ebay item 282068285209 40mm version for the larger MX5 units should also be available with the pressed steel flanges SBPF208-40, or failing that the cast iron flanged housed bearings or pillow block type are usually available.
I have used housed, self aligning bearings which combine the bearings with circular flanged, pressed steel housings SBPF207 for differentials with 35mm bearing spigots or SBPF208 for differentials with 40mm bearing spigots. The output flanged, stub shafts come with the MX5 differentials. The ones on the 1.6L MX5 have (4)10mm bolts on a 100mm pcd for MX5 bolt-on CV joints. The ones on the 1.8L MX5 have (4) 10mm bolts on a 110mm pcd for bolt-on MX5 CV joints.
Hi Doug. First of all I doff my hat to you. This is awesome. I'm mechanically minded myself i love this. Am i right in saying this could be made with pretty much any diff front or rear ?
Yes, I have used many different differentials from cars such as the Ford Sierra (rear diff), Ford Fiesta/Escort/Focus (front diffs), VW Golf (front diff) and BMW (rear diff).
Click on the "Show More" tab on the video description and you will see details of the bearings and sprocket part numbers and dimensions for the 1.6 and 1.8 NA,NB Mazda differentials.
I would like to know if this differential would be suitable for a 150 - 200 cc engine. that move from 1 to 4 people, or it would be too heavy that it would lose energy. excellent video, a very clean job, greetings from Peru! answer please!
The smaller differential from the Mazda Miata 1.6 may be better for your small car. Many other small car differentials can be converted to chain drive in a similar way if Miata differentials are not available in Peru.
So filling the diff up with grease acts like a limited slip? Or does it actually need to move and lubricate inside? Most greased bearings should have a lot lease than you'd expect, 10-20% fill to allow it to move around the bearings, when a bearing is packed full of grease it quickly overheats and destroys itself. Great job and great video, thanks for sharing!
No - Grease filling will not create an LSD. We use LSD versions of the MX5 differentials, either the stock viscous coupled LSD, the Torsen Type 1 or type 2 or an aftermarket ATB LSD. The bearings are sealed and do not see the grease which fills the differential case. There are still some voids in the differential case which can allow for expansion. Heat build-up in the case is not as great as with a conventional differential as there are no crown-wheel and pinion gears (which are the primary cause of heat).
With a chain drive differential, you can mount disc rotors on both of the flanged output shafts (sandwiched between the flange and the bolt-on CV joint). On LSDs and 'spool' units you can fit a single disc rotor on the body of the diff housing but this needs an additional machined mount/spacer for the disc.
Great video, I've found 2 potential diffa for my application. One is an open 1.8L 4:1 and one is A super fuji 3:6. The car will be R1 powered and FWD, so I'm leaning towards the LSD. Will that ratio suit? Will changing sprocket size make up for difference in final drive ratio?
Following this for a 1.8 diff now, Where do you get your alloy tube from usually? I’m struggling to find something that’s 108mm Guide is spot on though glad I found your channel I’ve watched a few now
My 1.8 diff and stub axles came yesterday, excited to get started on this project. Do you know of any brake rotors that will fit the output shafts? I believe they are 4x110MM.
Hi Richard, I think I repied to this question a couple of weeks ago. Anyhow - try these Suzuki GSX600f (89-97) rear disc rotors should be easy to adapt to suit the 1.8L. You would need to redrill to 110mm pcd. Rotors are 250mm diameter. These ones look like they have enough metal to redrill at 45 degrees to the original mounting holes www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203832938196
Thats awesome. How cheap. I know of folk paying 1200 for a full works diff. I know which way I will be going. Could you list the bearings/ caps and suppliers please. Looking forward to seeing what you post next.
You may already know this... Often times if you tighten the bolts back up then you can break that stubborn one loose. Then they'll all come out no problem.
Doug, Absolutely amazing ingenuity. I do have a question. How much difference is there between the width of the original LSD and your chain driven LSD? Does the track width change much, or at all? I’m working on a design for a trike and I’m hoping to use something like this setup.
The width between the output flanges of the differential is the same as the original Miata/MX5/Eunos. However, the position of chain sprocket may require the differential to be offset from the car's centre line, which would require different length drive shafts. If the bike engine can be offset or a jack-shaft can be used, you could fit the differential such that equal length (stock) drive shafts can be used.
I have made many chain drive differentials using lots of different types of limited-slip differentials. The Mazda MX5 Mk1 VLSD (Viscous Coupled LSD) is one of the easiest to convert. The MX5 Torsen type1 and type2 LSDs can also be converted however the housings have quite a few holes to seal up which can be tricky. The MX5 Blackline ATB LSD (as sold by Rally Design) is an excellent base for building a chain drive LSD.
The clips hold in the output shafts (usually need extreme violence to get them back off). The CV type axles do not put any great axial loads on the output shafts.
Hi, I really appreciate you sharing this information with us. I would like to ask what differential he would recommend for a kartcross buggy. It has 10´´ wheels and the working angle is small, but I drive with it on the road and gravel. Now I have no differential there. If you look at my videos, you will understand what I need it for. It is very understeer in sharp corners, but sometimes I need to drift. Thank you very much. (Sorry for my english, I am form Czechia :) )
The Mk1 MX5 (NA) Viscous Coupled LSD (VLSD) would be a good choice. It is small, lightweight and the viscous coupled lsd action gives a compromise of good traction and differential action on corners. Plate and ramp type LSDs give the best traction but can promote understeer (similar to a solid rear axle). Automatic Torque Biassing (ATB) differentials can loose traction on slippery surfaces/gravel/mud or if one drive wheel is off the ground.
Well done. The differential gears really don't require lubrication. They only turn slowly with respect to each other when the vehicle negotiates a turn and in a straight line they are static with respect to each other. It is only the spur gear and pinion that need lubrication and cooling. I have seen motorcycle trike conversions that use a modified live axle. The pinion gear and shaft is removed and the hole is plugged and the spur gear is replaced with a chain sprocket. The chain passes through a slot cut in the differential housing and the drain plug is removed to prevent any water collecting in the housing. No lubrication other than a squirt of oil when lubricating the chain is used. Clip showing how a differential works: ua-cam.com/video/yYAw79386WI/v-deo.html
Hi Richard, Suzuki GSX600f (89-97) rear disc rotors should be easy to adapt to suit the 1.8L. You would need to redrill to 110mm pcd. Rotors are 250mm diameter. These ones look like they have enough metal to redrill at 45 degrees to the original mounting holes www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203832938196 The above rotors should fit the 1.6L NA/NB (100mm pcd) output flanges using the existing bolt holes in the rotors)
Indeed! - Torsens and ATBs are not really suitable in off-road vehicles which encounter sand/mud or for vehicles which lift a driving wheel. In those cases a plate and ramp type LSD would be better suited.
There's only a small group of people that are interested in this kind of fabricating. thank you for all you do and thinking outside the box
🤜🤛👍 after struggling to find something Worthy on UA-cam you bring a ray of Hope that there's other like-minded people like myself
picked up a buggy project recently, and got myself a honda shadow 750 engine, this may be the solution i need for my rear end! thank you!
Sounds like a nice project.
It’s amazing how he just drill things and it worked. It looks easy but man if you did something like this before, you’ll know how hard it is.
I have made a few of these before!
You have the best and easiest example on the internet period. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and wisdom with us! I’m doing a krosskart build. This will be how I do the rear end.
Happy to help!
Weeks and months of searching led me to this video, thank you Sir for laying everything out in an easy to understand way!
Glad it helped!
@@DougsShed I have to say that I did not know what I was looking for at first but then. I found this video everything clicked. Thank you.
You're an excellent instructor here at the University of UA-cam. Thanks for the instruction.
Glad to help
This is Gold !!!
Your video has improved humanity.
Wow - the part where you suggested using an oil filter as a casing was just amazing. Never would come to my mind! Nice one!
Glad it helped!
Makes sense. I had a similar idea for an off road buggy I wanted to build. I was going to use a whole rear subframe to keep it as cheap as possible. What I planned to do was weld the miata diff and install a chain ring instead of the ring gear and cut windows in the case to allow the chain to pass through.
It may be difficult to get a large enough diameter sprocket to fit in with the windowed Miata differential case.
You could still use the complete subframe etc and mount the simple MX5 chain drive unit to the subframe.
there may not be a welder or a lathe here but there sure is an experienced, skilled hand or two. good video.
Closest I've found to what I was looking for
I aquired a go-kart frame for a trade, mid size.. not your little kids kart 😁
Then I was given a V Star 650 shaft drive motor w/ transmission
Trying to find a way to either change to chain drive or come up with a short version shaft drive rear end for kart
Keep up the good work, and thanks for thinking outside the box.. Apparently I'm not the only one..😂
are you not able to change the shaft coming off the bike engine for a CV to a rear diff from something like a UTV/ATV?
Now I have to change the design for my crosskart. Good thing I haven't started buying parts yet lol.
That what I like to see, no puller, just a crowbar and a club-hammer, always get the job done. Bravo Mr. Yardex!! The sheet metal-man. Great Video.
I go by the old adage "Everything in the toolbox is a hammer!"
Omg, this is fantastic!
I didn't finished the video and I already ordered second hand mazda diff.
Thank you very much!
Glad I could help!
I definitely could have used this 2 years ago before I mad a straight axel go-kart rear end for my miata kart powered by a gsxr1000 motor, definitely genius work my sir
If this hasn't blown up yet it will soon! I'll play my part! Awsome vid and thanks
Absolutely brilliant, the best diy fabrication video I've seen in a long time.
Glad you liked it!
Hi there I’m so gutted you retired in April I’ve just done a slight bit of research on you , this video is quality !! I’m not to steady handed etc and would much prefer to pay someone to make one for me with the housing like on westgarahes site , if you could point me in a direction to buy one built I would me appreciate it or even the one out the video 🤣 thank you Doug inspires me so much
Absolute genius! I just planned a whole new build AWD vehicle and completely overlooked the fact that I would need at least a front differential otherwise it would be very difficult to drive! Thank you
You might even need a centre differential to avoid axle wind-up between front and rear (if running on paved surfaces).
@@DougsShed so you would need 3 differentials in total? One for front, one for rear and one for the center for a AWD system?
@@White_Night_Demon Have a look at Dennis Palatov's blog on his build of his 4wd sports car prototype www.dpcars.net/dp1dsn/dd.htm
@@White_Night_Demon Have a look at Dennis Palatov's blog on the build of his 4wd prototype www.dpcars.net/dp1dsn/dd.htm
Full blog here www.dpcars.net/dp1dsn/
@What's going on in Doug's Shed? thanks will check it out - been meaning to make my own ratrod that has 5 mode steering(Front, rear, all wheel, same direction and off - just for fun haha), 3 mode driving system (front drive, rear drive and all wheel drive, I believe 4WD only lets you choose either FWD or RWD but can't do AWD?), and it'd also have the option to be pedal powered (Which is why the differential is chain driven rather than a propellar shaft)and or driven by a small engine (I was thinking maybe a 2 stroke one cylinder(so I dont have to worry about changing the engine oil every so often since it gets changed when I fuel up altogether), or that yamaha 4 stroke four cylinder engine with crossplane crankshaft motobike engine (since I like its exhaust note hehe), or if I can get someone to build me one, a 2 stroke small engine v8 that is built from 8 separate chainsaw or weed wacker engines haha since no small engine 2 stroke v8 exists which means it'd have to be custom built and tuned and with a crossplane crankshaft too to boot - and that'd sound awesome!). The pedal power will most definitely help when I run out of fuel for the small engine or if it dies for whatever reasons! Hahaha
I'll also see if I can use some bike gear sprokets set on the differential and add a derailer so I can fine tune the the speed on the fly like on a bike! The bulk of the torque and speed changes will be on (maybe custom built unless I can find one that fits a small engine that is also not heavy...) 3 speed + reverse gearbox that connects the drive from the pedals or the small engine that sits at the front of the ratrod.
I was thinking of using plastic PVC tubing for basically the whole body and frame, those tubes you use for plumbing for light weight (And have a higher power to weight ratio when using the small engine...) but I dunno if that'll hold up, especially when I go offroading onto rocks (well small rocks obviously, I doubt I'd be able to climb big ones...hahaha) or speed bumps or whatever that isn't smooth... i have seen a few builds here on youtube where they made go karts out of them PVC piping so it must hold up, right? Hahaha
But yeah, that's my plan. WIll first need to design working prototypes for each part of the vehicle before I make the real thing to actual scale for use on the ratrod.
Very cool mate, am looking to do this on an off road buggy. Great to use existing, much cheaper and well designed components that are in the millions lying idle worldwide. Keep it up
I don't need one, but sure enjoyed you teaching me how to build one if I do! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for watching!
Ingenious!!! I really appreciated this vid. I would have never thought of this on my own. Thanks for sharing!
Great, thanks for sharing.
The art of tinkering in your shed is still alive and well. Will subscribe now.
Thanks 👍
Excellent tutorial! I may be able to do this myself. Thanks for sharing.
You can do it!
Beautiful!!!! I am going to start building one of these for a mini dump truck for homeowners and construction teams. Thank you for the idea.
Sounds like a great idea.
@@DougsShed I just located two Rebel 500 motors that I am going to use for the mini dump truck. They are chain drive so I am still going to have to build one or two of these. I am thinking about building a 1/2 to 3/4 size dump truck to use around the farm and put it up for sale but I believe that it will sell so fast it will make my head spin. At least that is what people tell me who hear me discuss the build. I found the coolest thing on marketplace. It is a Drill press and tapping press station that is from an old machine shop that closed sometime after the Second World War and stayed locked and sealed. I was privy to the family opening it and I made them an offer and they accepted it. I am going to try and start my UA-cam channel with a short video about it. U will send you a link when I make th video. Thanks brother.
And to think that dealers are selling motorcycle differentials for trikes for THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS !!!!! Thank you sir !!!!
Eyyy brother from another mother larrylivinlife
well first you need to go find a working diff for free for all this to work....
I am building a Harley Davidson Shovelhead powered trike, this will save me a bundle. The only thing I need to add would be inboard brake rotors on the stub axles. The trike is an old-school chopper that will have no fenders and I don't want modern rotors visible at the wheels.
Totally awesome.... Now I can go make my own for an electric 4x4 go cart. Thank you sir for your time and information on this.
Go for it!
@@DougsShed , As I build my project I will be posting videos of it, until then I will do my research on parts and if you like you are very welcome to check out the few videos that I have and offer your suggestions if you wish.
Really appreciate you sharing this. Been wanting to do a DIY one of these for a while and this will help me a lot!
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing idea!!!! Literally, overkill for any go kart! I love it
Sidecar outfits don’t turn well in any gear. ;)
No guts no glory..
Trying to put a shaft drive V Star 650 in mid size go-kart chain drive kart rear end/shaft drive street bike motor and transmission.. lol
I have the need for speed 😂
Amazing work, I'll be transferring some of your tips to my self build lsd diff, I turned a 10mm plate and threaded to allow attachment of the cup(welded) one side and the sprocket the other 👍
2 SAY THAT THIS IS GENIOUS... ITS AN UNDER STATEMENT 4 SURE.. THANKU 4 ALL UR EFFERTS .. 2 CREATE .. SUCH A WELL THOUGHT OUT VID.. EVEN I GOT IT..
Thank you for your kind comments.
FANTASTIC ! thanks for doing all the R&D. cheers
I considered a jackshaft, but it will be easier to just machine a spacer and put the sprocket in line with the trans sprocket. Thanks again for the great video and information.
Thanks for sharing your ideas ! So useful to fellow builders.
Thanks - That's why I posted the video....
This is genius and well thought out my good man and actually exactly what I was looking for ( being to thick to think of something this clever myself) thanks so much for sharing appreciate it very much 👍
You're welcome!
Appreciate the video one of the best ones on how to do it, if only mx5 stuff wasn't so expensive where i live.
Agreed custom work cost as its all about the time it takes
Lots of other differentials which can be converted in similar ways. Just about every small front wheel drive car has a differential which can be converted.
Get out of here!!! That was amazing!! Very well described !! Thankyou kind sir for sharing your knowledge!!! Thankyou
You are very welcome!
Im so glad I came across this because Im gonna build a crosskart this summer and having no diff kinda sucks
You may wish to use an limited-slip type differential if you are using your crosskart on dirt/sand/mud.
Probably best to look for a plate and ramp type rather than a Torsen or ATB.
That was great mate,
thanks for sharing. Off to the scrappy now. 👍🐺👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Very generous of you, thank you!
Very useful information and well made video. Can you show us how to make one for an electric scooter?
absolutely fantastic work mate 👍🏻
Thank you!
Very similar to one I built a while back for a trike using Sierra diff parts. I had to get some machining done but nothing too expensive. I initially was going to mount a disc on the end of the can for parking brake but changed it to using the can as a band brake, now wish I'd stuck with the disc set up. Also was going to mount two sprockets - one for electric driven reverse but things were getting too complicated!
Yes they can get complicated. I have built versions with single discs, twin discs and various types of electric reverse.
How hot does it get while running? I would assume it says fairly cool as there is no ring and pinion. I am considering 3d printing the cover......
Yes, it does not get too hot as there are no hypoid gears constantly revolving. I did make a 3D printed oil/grease retaining cover for one differential. I painted it inside and out to make sure that it was oil resistant.
Amazing enginuity ! Thanks for sharing such a priceless and useful hack
💪😎👍
My pleasure!
Great video, very easy to do now I have to come up with a project to put that in.
You should!
thank you, for sharing this detailed information with us.
You are welcome!
Thank you for sharing this. I love your precision and your detail. Cheers
Thank you for your kind words.
I need one of these, probably the 1.6 version. Perfect size for my project.
I'd first like to see the bolts in use though.
Awesome, now show us how to make a differential for the bottom bracket crank set!
Wow - thanks for all the details. Just found your channel and this first video I’ve seen immediately deserved a subscription. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your content. 👍👍😎👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
you sir are a genius :D
Very well! Cool idea! I really like it! I love these designs, especially home built ones! Big like! Definitely a Subscription!
Thank you! Cheers!
Always enjoy your videos and your willingness to share knowledge. Most appreciated.
Glad to help
Just one word , wow , some people are really getting screwed...
It was my project stopper, now it starts
If you are making these for a living you have to charge a realistic price.
Thank you for posting this video I've been looking at trike conversion bad left leg I'm shocked at cost guess that says my age is old .
You make it look so easy
I really live what you’ve done here. Great idea and completely useful. I am looking to build a buggy for my daughter to cruise around my lake property and I’d like to make a 4WD for her and this is perfect but I need two haha. Could you tell me where you sourced the bearings. I’m living in Ecuador so I will likely need to source parts in the US.
Have a look on ebay.com for US suppliers
Found this one SBPF207-35 35mm housed bearings ebay item 282068285209
40mm version for the larger MX5 units should also be available with the pressed steel flanges SBPF208-40,
or failing that the cast iron flanged housed bearings or pillow block type are usually available.
What kind of bearings and output shafts did you get? Or where? Really great video you even explained how much grease to use - thanks for making this
I have used housed, self aligning bearings which combine the bearings with circular flanged, pressed steel housings SBPF207 for differentials with 35mm bearing spigots or SBPF208 for differentials with 40mm bearing spigots.
The output flanged, stub shafts come with the MX5 differentials. The ones on the 1.6L MX5 have (4)10mm bolts on a 100mm pcd for MX5 bolt-on CV joints. The ones on the 1.8L MX5 have (4) 10mm bolts on a 110mm pcd for bolt-on MX5 CV joints.
Hi Doug. First of all I doff my hat to you. This is awesome. I'm mechanically minded myself i love this. Am i right in saying this could be made with pretty much any diff front or rear ?
Yes, I have used many different differentials from cars such as the Ford Sierra (rear diff), Ford Fiesta/Escort/Focus (front diffs), VW Golf (front diff) and BMW (rear diff).
So that’s why i keep blowing up diffs in my miata.. i need a bigger chain lol
Looks great! Do you have a parts list.
Click on the "Show More" tab on the video description and you will see details of the bearings and sprocket part numbers and dimensions for the 1.6 and 1.8 NA,NB Mazda differentials.
@@DougsShed thank you.
I would like to know if this differential would be suitable for a 150 - 200 cc engine. that move from 1 to 4 people, or it would be too heavy that it would lose energy. excellent video, a very clean job, greetings from Peru! answer please!
The smaller differential from the Mazda Miata 1.6 may be better for your small car. Many other small car differentials can be converted to chain drive in a similar way if Miata differentials are not available in Peru.
So filling the diff up with grease acts like a limited slip? Or does it actually need to move and lubricate inside?
Most greased bearings should have a lot lease than you'd expect, 10-20% fill to allow it to move around the bearings, when a bearing is packed full of grease it quickly overheats and destroys itself. Great job and great video, thanks for sharing!
No - Grease filling will not create an LSD.
We use LSD versions of the MX5 differentials, either the stock viscous coupled LSD, the Torsen Type 1 or type 2 or an aftermarket ATB LSD. The bearings are sealed and do not see the grease which fills the differential case. There are still some voids in the differential case which can allow for expansion. Heat build-up in the case is not as great as with a conventional differential as there are no crown-wheel and pinion gears (which are the primary cause of heat).
Great. Video . Thanks. One question. Where can you mount a brake disk. Thanks again
With a chain drive differential, you can mount disc rotors on both of the flanged output shafts (sandwiched between the flange and the bolt-on CV joint). On LSDs and 'spool' units you can fit a single disc rotor on the body of the diff housing but this needs an additional machined mount/spacer for the disc.
Great video, I've found 2 potential diffa for my application. One is an open 1.8L 4:1 and one is A super fuji 3:6. The car will be R1 powered and FWD, so I'm leaning towards the LSD. Will that ratio suit? Will changing sprocket size make up for difference in final drive ratio?
good to see another scottish youtube channel
Thanks!
Awesome video! Thank you so much for sharing this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I absolutely brilliant I’d like to no the best way to mount that into a trike frame though if possible ?? Cheers great video larrysullivan in London
Have a look at www.casarva.co.uk. They manufacture mounting frame and suspension kits.
Really nice explanation off everything I love looking at you video
I appreciate that!
Very generous. I'll subscribe knowing nothing of your channel. Thanks.
Thank you!
I have a Harley motor and trans that I want to put in a VW beach buggy and this is exactly what I need to build
Following this for a 1.8 diff now, Where do you get your alloy tube from usually? I’m struggling to find something that’s 108mm
Guide is spot on though glad I found your channel I’ve watched a few now
4.1/2" x 10swg (114.3 x3.2mm)
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINIUM-ROUND-TUBE-3-3-1-4-3-1-2-4-4-1-2-5-6-inch-select-size-length/192449775545?var=492464022926&hash=item2ccee687b9:g:3gUAAOSw0F9bm81a
My 1.8 diff and stub axles came yesterday, excited to get started on this project. Do you know of any brake rotors that will fit the output shafts? I believe they are 4x110MM.
Hi Richard, I think I repied to this question a couple of weeks ago. Anyhow - try these Suzuki GSX600f (89-97) rear disc rotors should be easy to adapt to suit the 1.8L. You would need to redrill to 110mm pcd. Rotors are 250mm diameter. These ones look like they have enough metal to redrill at 45 degrees to the original mounting holes www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203832938196
Thats awesome. How cheap. I know of folk paying 1200 for a full works diff. I know which way I will be going. Could you list the bearings/ caps and suppliers please.
Looking forward to seeing what you post next.
The bearing and sprocket details and suppliers are now listed in the video description below the video (click "Show more..) to see all the text.
glad i seen this, cheers mate
Thanks, hope it was useful.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
You may already know this...
Often times if you tighten the bolts back up then you can break that stubborn one loose. Then they'll all come out no problem.
Not when the long bolt has corroded into the housing they don't!
How wide is this unit, flange to flange? I want to build one for a Harley Davidson Shovelhead powered trike.
1.6 diff is 240mm and 1.8 diff is 278mm
Cracking stuff mate.
Thanks.
Hi mate have you got a parts list of all the items you would need
Parts are listed in the description below the video.
Thanks I can't find it could you tag me in the list
@@dan-og4gb Just below video click on "Show more"
Thanks in a million. Great content. Awesome imagination. Grade: A++💥
You're welcome!
Doug,
Absolutely amazing ingenuity. I do have a question. How much difference is there between the width of the original LSD and your chain driven LSD? Does the track width change much, or at all? I’m working on a design for a trike and I’m hoping to use something like this setup.
The width between the output flanges of the differential is the same as the original Miata/MX5/Eunos.
However, the position of chain sprocket may require the differential to be offset from the car's centre line, which would require different length drive shafts. If the bike engine can be offset or a jack-shaft can be used, you could fit the differential such that equal length (stock) drive shafts can be used.
Very nice video. Thanks for the excellent idea.
You are welcome!
Amazing work
Thank you! Cheers!
What's the part number of the bearings. And thank you for the tip
Bearing part numbers are in the description below the video.
Awesome, hopefully will use something like this in a future build. Cheers
Go for it!
If a person welds,a flange could be welded to the bottom of the tube and then bolted down with the sprocket bolts?
Could be done however you would have problems changing the sprocket
Thank you, very informative! Is there any reason that this would work differently with a limited slip diff?
I have made many chain drive differentials using lots of different types of limited-slip differentials.
The Mazda MX5 Mk1 VLSD (Viscous Coupled LSD) is one of the easiest to convert. The MX5 Torsen type1 and type2 LSDs can also be converted however the housings have quite a few holes to seal up which can be tricky.
The MX5 Blackline ATB LSD (as sold by Rally Design) is an excellent base for building a chain drive LSD.
@@DougsShed Thank you! I'm at the parts collection phase, and just recently acquired a 99 miata diff. Great video!!!
How are you supporting the axles outside, and are you just relying on the clips to hold the axles in?
The clips hold in the output shafts (usually need extreme violence to get them back off). The CV type axles do not put any great axial loads on the output shafts.
Genius!
I love to re-purpose items.
great video Doug, Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
your work bench looks exactly like mine.... That's a compliment yet quite offensive
I used to work in an office with a tidy desk policy - What a PITA
Very good video but how do you mount the diff
Usually bolted to a pair of sliding or pivoting plates to allow chain tensioning. Have a look at some of my other videos to see typical installations.
Hi, I really appreciate you sharing this information with us. I would like to ask what differential he would recommend for a kartcross buggy. It has 10´´ wheels and the working angle is small, but I drive with it on the road and gravel. Now I have no differential there. If you look at my videos, you will understand what I need it for. It is very understeer in sharp corners, but sometimes I need to drift.
Thank you very much.
(Sorry for my english, I am form Czechia :) )
The Mk1 MX5 (NA) Viscous Coupled LSD (VLSD) would be a good choice. It is small, lightweight and the viscous coupled lsd action gives a compromise of good traction and differential action on corners. Plate and ramp type LSDs give the best traction but can promote understeer (similar to a solid rear axle). Automatic Torque Biassing (ATB) differentials can loose traction on slippery surfaces/gravel/mud or if one drive wheel is off the ground.
@@DougsShed OK, thank you very much :)
Great work! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Well done.
The differential gears really don't require lubrication. They only turn slowly with respect to each other when the vehicle negotiates a turn and in a straight line they are static with respect to each other. It is only the spur gear and pinion that need lubrication and cooling. I have seen motorcycle trike conversions that use a modified live axle. The pinion gear and shaft is removed and the hole is plugged and the spur gear is replaced with a chain sprocket. The chain passes through a slot cut in the differential housing and the drain plug is removed to prevent any water collecting in the housing. No lubrication other than a squirt of oil when lubricating the chain is used.
Clip showing how a differential works: ua-cam.com/video/yYAw79386WI/v-deo.html
I wonder if there are any off the shelf brake rotors that will fit the 1.8 stub axles?
Hi Richard, Suzuki GSX600f (89-97) rear disc rotors should be easy to adapt to suit the 1.8L. You would need to redrill to 110mm pcd. Rotors are 250mm diameter. These ones look like they have enough metal to redrill at 45 degrees to the original mounting holes www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203832938196
The above rotors should fit the 1.6L NA/NB (100mm pcd) output flanges using the existing bolt holes in the rotors)
Torsen LSD's that are in 1.8 diffs will act like opens unless under load fyi
Indeed! - Torsens and ATBs are not really suitable in off-road vehicles which encounter sand/mud or for vehicles which lift a driving wheel. In those cases a plate and ramp type LSD would be better suited.
You built it? Where is the scene where you built those spider gears.
The base differential case and gears are from a Mazda MX5 (Miata).