I bought the RFM panther with clear hull and turret option,didnt look right,now i'm on the 'cutaway' version.They moulded clear HK parts first,then the styrene.That was in the bumf.
Built the Revell/Monogram Phantom Mustang some months ago which, as you may recall, is ALL clear. I wanted to commemorate George Preddy's 'Cripes a Mighty' so decided to paint the port side fuselage, vertical stabilizer, wing and horizontal stabilizer aluminum with the distinctive Bodney blue nose. Left the starboard side clear, but painted the underside of the starboard wing aluminum and the interior Tamiya yellow green. To the point, I ran the paint over the seam lines onto a bit of the starboard side fuselage, as you suggested in your option 3. And painted bits of the starboard to either mask "ugliness" or show needed detail - like the legendary barber pole under the engine exhausts on the starboard side. It looks much more impressive than leaving a sharp demarcation where the two fuselage halves meet and it takes care of the seam line along the point of joining. Plan to do the same with the Monogram visible B-17 at some point. You can just as well mask off areas you want to expose on the starboard side and paint the entire kit in the required camo scheme and then, when done painting and finishing the effort, remove the masks and, voila, the masked parts will reveal the innards. Hope this helps.
@@ModelNerd Some modelers claim that dipping in `Future/Pledge` makes clear parts resistant to fogging. Didn`t try it myself though, so it would be wise to test it first on a spare clear part. Hope it helps. Cheers!
For glass in dials on IP,i use cellophane from packaging,have used on \48 Fw189 and FW190 with Eduard Zoom kits.And about to do \32 mustang ZM/Eduard Interior set.You can score back of cellophane to look like a cracked dial.CA doesnt attack it.I just realized who 'Nigel' is,between you,you got the HK Lanc covered.Great build and filming.
IP looks good,i use flexy5 slow CA glue,gives you ages to play about with PE parts.Thats one huge model.HK charge professional prices for a rank amatuer job.The HK lanc is equal to two Zoukei mura \32 UHU's roughly in price.Pacific M4 camo looked good.
Thanks Peter. I think I'll try to wrestle those belts back off then. I should have another Lancaster update coming 'soon', though to be honest the kit is wearing me down a bit at the moment.
This is a great video! I was engrossed in it. What a massive model. Love the clear side idea. I build model railways, so I am a modeller from a different world but please feel free to check out what I do and comment and subscribe etc. I have subb'd to your channel and look forward to watching more of your projects. Cheers. Dave
Thanks Dave. I've never done any railway modelling (no space really), but I reckon there are a lot of interchangeable techniques - I like your new depot build videos a lot. Cheers.
@@ModelNerd I’ve been searching for a Lanc crew but all I can find is seven walking upright with gear I can’t find an actual 7 crew members to put inside the Lanc
@@zaynevanday142 Yes, that's the one I have. Crews in aircraft seem to be very scarce in any scale unfortunately. It's a real shame - I'm sure they'd sell well even if they just included the visible members of the crew.
I think those focussed on the kit's apparent shortcomings need to realise that a) this kit was years in development and in a scale never attempted before b) if every single detail was included, the kit would be priced probably closer to £500.
I think you're right to a point, Dave. I'll certainly be interested in the price of the (delayed) WNW kit. I've generally tried not to count rivets, and I appreciate that there are numerous variations of Lancasters (and few if any truly original examples to inspect). But I do think some of the mistakes are unforgivable - and things like the elevators being mixed up, or the damaged parts which they agree to replace and then just ignore communication - isn't acceptable to me.
That's good old regular Tamiya Cement (white cap). The brush is quite large which can be annoying, and you do have to be careful how much you apply. But I find the smell of Tamiya Extra Thin awful - I really can't stand it.
@@ModelNerd never new they did white top one only ever seen green top (extra thin one) I've found the smell issue with lot of the tamiya paints & glues
Which fuselage option do you think would work best?
1) Opaque parts with a cutaway
2) Clear parts
3) Clear parts with selective painting
I bought the RFM panther with clear hull and turret option,didnt look right,now i'm on the 'cutaway' version.They moulded clear HK parts first,then the styrene.That was in the bumf.
Model Nerd full opaque in my opinion. I will do mine likewise
3
If you want a cut-away demo model, the best bet is to paint the joins and cut-away edges in red, which is what professional, full-size models use.
@@551taylor Thanks John. I went for the selective painting option in the end - you can see the final video on my channel now :)
Built the Revell/Monogram Phantom Mustang some months ago which, as you may recall, is ALL clear. I wanted to commemorate George Preddy's 'Cripes a Mighty' so decided to paint the port side fuselage, vertical stabilizer, wing and horizontal stabilizer aluminum with the distinctive Bodney blue nose. Left the starboard side clear, but painted the underside of the starboard wing aluminum and the interior Tamiya yellow green. To the point, I ran the paint over the seam lines onto a bit of the starboard side fuselage, as you suggested in your option 3. And painted bits of the starboard to either mask "ugliness" or show needed detail - like the legendary barber pole under the engine exhausts on the starboard side. It looks much more impressive than leaving a sharp demarcation where the two fuselage halves meet and it takes care of the seam line along the point of joining. Plan to do the same with the Monogram visible B-17 at some point. You can just as well mask off areas you want to expose on the starboard side and paint the entire kit in the required camo scheme and then, when done painting and finishing the effort, remove the masks and, voila, the masked parts will reveal the innards. Hope this helps.
Thanks - that's some useful tips
I think no.3 `Clear parts with selective painting`. Great work so far!
Thanks. Yes, I'm leaning towards that too. The only worry I have is finding a strong enough glue to bond the clear parts without fogging them.
@@ModelNerd Some modelers claim that dipping in `Future/Pledge` makes clear parts resistant to fogging. Didn`t try it myself though, so it would be wise to test it first on a spare clear part. Hope it helps. Cheers!
@@ModelNerd let it fog - and use that as a point to paint to...
Despite the problems HK has delivered, I think you've done the kit justice, so far. Hopefully it doesn't wear you down too much.
Thanks Mike. Yep, I really need to get going on this again. Hopefully in the next month or so...
Amazing build of an amazing model. Just one question - were the seat belts really fastened to the seat cushions on the original?
Thanks. The belts would be attached to the seat framework I guess - I didn't do a very good job on those
For glass in dials on IP,i use cellophane from packaging,have used on \48 Fw189 and FW190 with Eduard Zoom kits.And about to do \32 mustang ZM/Eduard Interior set.You can score back of cellophane to look like a cracked dial.CA doesnt attack it.I just realized who 'Nigel' is,between you,you got the HK Lanc covered.Great build and filming.
Cheers Darron. Good tip out the cellophane packaging. I hope to have an update video on the Lancaster coming up.
Wow mate this is awesome 😎 good job !
Thanks a lot!
Great video and some fantastic work and details.
Thanks Paul
Yes it is good video.
IP looks good,i use flexy5 slow CA glue,gives you ages to play about with PE parts.Thats one huge model.HK charge professional prices for a rank amatuer job.The HK lanc is equal to two Zoukei mura \32 UHU's roughly in price.Pacific M4 camo looked good.
Cheers Darron.
Nice build.. the bombaimers cushion was for him to rest his chest on and had no seatbelts at all..
Thanks Peter. I think I'll try to wrestle those belts back off then. I should have another Lancaster update coming 'soon', though to be honest the kit is wearing me down a bit at the moment.
Good job
Thanks Simon.
Option 3 ! Option 3 !
Yes yes yes !!!! Option 3
This is a great video! I was engrossed in it. What a massive model. Love the clear side idea. I build model railways, so I am a modeller from a different world but please feel free to check out what I do and comment and subscribe etc. I have subb'd to your channel and look forward to watching more of your projects. Cheers. Dave
Thanks Dave. I've never done any railway modelling (no space really), but I reckon there are a lot of interchangeable techniques - I like your new depot build videos a lot. Cheers.
No crew with this kit ?
Unfortunately not. However, I do have the AC Models 1:32 Lancaster crew which I'll be building at some point in the near future, hopefully.
@@ModelNerd I’ve been searching for a Lanc crew but all I can find is seven walking upright with gear I can’t find an actual 7 crew members to put inside the Lanc
@@zaynevanday142 Yes, that's the one I have. Crews in aircraft seem to be very scarce in any scale unfortunately. It's a real shame - I'm sure they'd sell well even if they just included the visible members of the crew.
@@ModelNerd looking at having to try to kit bash a crew together 😂
I have never made any MHK Models and with your review I think I will give them a miss.
Yes, I was sadly disappointed with this kit.
I think those focussed on the kit's apparent shortcomings need to realise that a) this kit was years in development and in a scale never attempted before b) if every single detail was included, the kit would be priced probably closer to £500.
I think you're right to a point, Dave. I'll certainly be interested in the price of the (delayed) WNW kit. I've generally tried not to count rivets, and I appreciate that there are numerous variations of Lancasters (and few if any truly original examples to inspect). But I do think some of the mistakes are unforgivable - and things like the elevators being mixed up, or the damaged parts which they agree to replace and then just ignore communication - isn't acceptable to me.
Is the model plastic or metal?
Plastic - with a very small number of photoetch parts.
7:13 are those belts not flexible? They look a bit straight, flat, unnatural and inorganic. How's about some ribbon?
Yeah, a lot of the interior items are heavily simplified.
@@ModelNerd Also i think at 8:25 you have the seatbelt wrong? Both ends start from the same side, would be a bit hard to secure that way :)
@@oranje1964 Yeah, you're right. Also the belts shouldn't come from the corners, but from the middle of the edge, I believe. Oops.
What glue are you using with that brush please
That's good old regular Tamiya Cement (white cap). The brush is quite large which can be annoying, and you do have to be careful how much you apply. But I find the smell of Tamiya Extra Thin awful - I really can't stand it.
@@ModelNerd never new they did white top one only ever seen green top (extra thin one) I've found the smell issue with lot of the tamiya paints & glues
Yes it does not smell good 🤢
clear parts with selective painting - and ensure you have paint over the 'ugly backs' - so you have various 'blob-ish' clear windows...
No HK kit for me.. crap mold and crap firm.
Yeah...I'm going to get back on this kit in the next week or so, but I won't be in a hurry to buy another HK kit, that's for sure.
I built the do 335,great kit