Have you tried leather sealers? I’m a leather worker that has transitioned to wood burning and so far most of the things I do to leather translate really well to wood. My favorite is pro resist. Acrylic based and extremely matte finish. I haven’t tried it on wood yet though. I will say that alcohol based and diluted dyes work amazing on wood. Super easy to dilute and use in my airbrush. Thanks for sharing! Love your videos!!
@ I tried acrylic matte varnish on a scrap piece and it hardly darkened my very light shading too. Is it suggested to apply the varnish super thick? In my experience with leather as long as it soaks in there’s no need to make the finish super thick. Wood just isn’t my area of expertise I could be completely wrong
I just performed the burn test from 1-8 with my new detai l r using my 330w portable power station. It worked beautifully and after the first line I only burned with 4-8. Tol me 8 is too hot, and 4 is minimum. Now I know I can burn while being a nomad living in my truck and trailer soon. Now for more practicing and yes I love the detailer and plan to get a few more tips later. Thank you your suggestion was spot on, I'm so happy with it.
This is so helpful thank you! :) I'm burning some large OUTDOOR signs for a nature reserve and am so nervous about them fading. I've been recommended Spar Urethene as the toughest finish for outdoors due to UV protection but am confused now after you've suggested Deck Oil is better...does deck oil provide UV protection too? I'm using Sycamore because its nice and pale to burn and they will be outdoors all year round on the UK south coast, with sometimes freezing temperatures in winter, and sometimes up to 30+ degrees centigrade in the summer... I've done outdoor signs before that have faded over a year or so, only sealed them with some OSMO UV oil and yacht varnish... Do you have any advice or tips to help me seal them?
Not deck oil, but a waterproof UV resistant deck sealer is my favorite. You want something that basically turns to a hard plastic when it’s dry. Spar urethane would be my another great choice. I’ve used both, but I had problems with the spar urethane cracking before the deck sealant did. Other people might’ve had better experience the other way around, but that was my experience. Good luck!
I use both UV and epoxy resin, I use an LED light to cure the resin instead of a UV light. I'm assuming you said epoxy bc uv resin exposes the pyrography to sun for curing? Or is there another reason too? I like UV resin bc there's less chance of surprise leaks over the side as it cures. Is UV resin an option? Also ty for all the videos! Just did my first pyrography today under your guidance!
Either should be fine. I don’t pretend to be an expert on resin or epoxy 🙈 but as far as UV goes, you just don’t want your pyrography to have long-term UV exposure. Glad you got a project under your belt! Well done 🔥🙌
I am so glad I found your page. You have excellent information. I am new to Pyrography, and I am in love. I was looking into shading, and your video with the sunflower is great. That is now on my list. Do you still do the Crate Club? I followed the link, but only saw 2023. I'm excited to keep learning from your page!
Glad you’re enjoying it! Pyrography is totally addictive in my opinion. As for the Crate Club, I couldn’t keep up with the demand. 😅 I have a few overstock boxes left in my Etsy shop called Red Roof Barn that you can check out. Hope you find something fun to burn! 🔥🙌
You may have said what to use, my question is, if you want to add color, I'm using oil based, what spray finish do you use before you add the color. I did not know that oil would melt, that's why I love your informative videos.
Curious if we can find out the amounts you use for your mineral oil/beeswax combo that you use for food safe cutting boards… We have a bunch of beeswax from my lotion bar hobby and mineral oil from my son that is a blacksmith.
Needed to ask a question about the packages of cut wood you can purchase from craft stores . Are they good to wood burn on. Plan to go and purchase some wood very soon. Thank you for all your videos they are very helpful.
Depends on what type of woods it is. I’ve got a whole playlist to help people choose the best wood and avoid the worst… hope this helps! Best Wood for Wood Burning ua-cam.com/play/PLlOnZI-MNsnFYwCARY_sRAK9zTh3YvUK5.html
Hi I've using a coffee as a wood stain on untreated wood but I'm trying to figure out to seal it also it has little bit of acrylic pen paint so any thoughts would appreciate it and I will watch this video also
Ive been looking for a good finish for outdoors i make and sell shed allotment plot number plaques i warned people about fading etc i didnt think about marine varnish or resin thx for advice ❤
I sand before burning, usually not after although sometimes it calls for it. Here’s a video I talk all about sanding: ua-cam.com/video/OJ7HsQwH244/v-deo.htmlsi=XZeMv7gWjVozZHCq
About finishes on leather... Have you used mink oil as a preservative for the material. I'm just starting with woodburning, but I know leather quite well. I can not recommend mink oil enough.
Oh great question. I should have prefaced that. Usually you want to seal it with something else before you add resin. I like to use a brush on polycrylic or a polyurethane to give the resin a solid surface to work with. Otherwise, the air from the wood will get up into the resin. Then, of course, once you add the resin, you need to use a torch to pop the bubbles on the surface before it cures.
I'm back, haha. So I have settled on polycrylic. I absolutely love it as a finish. I have started to use splashes of color on my pieces. Prismacolor colored pencils. I had a little bleeding of the color, on a couple pieces when brushing the polycrylic on. Nothing too bad, but I dont want to ha e to deal with that often. Would it be alright to spray a little acrylic spray on the color before I brush on the polycrylic? Would that mess anything up?
The best sealant is what the old generation used it’s completely natural if you buy it in a grocery store, in Europe if you would buy it in a Home Depot (the Europe version of that) it’s almost certain they put some chemicals with the linseed so the downside of linseed oil is that is does not protect from uv light but I still use it especially for example a cut board a butcher block
I’m new to this whole finishing thing…. Didn’t even know it was a thing Lol. So I’m using Torch paste, on Willow wood. Just for our own wall/countertop decors would I need like a polycrylic AND a mineral oil? Or just the polycrylic? I just want a gloss or finish of some sort but I’ve been told that I need to stain and finish with a mineral oil so I’m confused do I use both or just one? I know not to use anything other than mineral oil on food surfaces
I don’t use the mineral oil first because I don’t want it to repel the polycrylic which is a water-based product. If you used an oil based product like polyurethane, you could probably do a mineral oil first. But simply seal front and back and the sides with the polycrylic 👍
If I already used the spray clear coat on my wood burning, will liquitex clear gloss be ok to use on it or will it damage my projects? Please let me no Im new to the art
Honestly, I’m not familiar with Liquitex clear gloss. Most finishes are fine with a spray coat first as long as you lightly sand it before you apply the next finish. I would try it out on a practice piece.
I’ve just had a custom Didgeridoo made with burnt art designs on it. The clear lacquer has caused it to be sticky/tacky over the designs. The artist said, it will stay sticky/tacky for a good few weeks. Apparently the stickiness/tackiness is caused by sum reaction with the burnt wood and the lacquer. Is this true? Will the stickiness/tackiness eventually go away?
I don’t know much about woods used for didgeridoos and how sappy they are. Saps from some woods definitely interact with or resist sealants, so it’s possible. Wish I could be more help
![Wood Burning Techniques for Beginners: [4 Basic Pyrography Techniques + Bonus]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UVT1biX3Vmk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Wood Burning Techniques for Beginners: [4 Basic Pyrography Techniques + Bonus]](/img/tr.png)
Have you tried leather sealers? I’m a leather worker that has transitioned to wood burning and so far most of the things I do to leather translate really well to wood. My favorite is pro resist. Acrylic based and extremely matte finish. I haven’t tried it on wood yet though. I will say that alcohol based and diluted dyes work amazing on wood. Super easy to dilute and use in my airbrush. Thanks for sharing! Love your videos!!
Great tip, thanks for sharing! I’m gonna have to try that
@ I tried acrylic matte varnish on a scrap piece and it hardly darkened my very light shading too. Is it suggested to apply the varnish super thick? In my experience with leather as long as it soaks in there’s no need to make the finish super thick. Wood just isn’t my area of expertise I could be completely wrong
Usually, I do two or three coats of finish on the wood pieces that I make
I really didn’t know there was this much to finishing. Boy did I oversimplify. Very well done presentation!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful to you!
I just performed the burn test from 1-8 with my new detai l r using my 330w portable power station. It worked beautifully and after the first line I only burned with 4-8. Tol me 8 is too hot, and 4 is minimum.
Now I know I can burn while being a nomad living in my truck and trailer soon. Now for more practicing and yes I love the detailer and plan to get a few more tips later. Thank you your suggestion was spot on, I'm so happy with it.
Yaaassss! Love to hear you’re enjoying it 🙌🔥
What seal did you include in your monthly boxes?? I did one and don’t remember what it was but loved how it looked.
I used different sealants for different boxes. If it was one you had to paint on, it was likely a polycrylic or a polyurethane
This is so helpful thank you! :) I'm burning some large OUTDOOR signs for a nature reserve and am so nervous about them fading. I've been recommended Spar Urethene as the toughest finish for outdoors due to UV protection but am confused now after you've suggested Deck Oil is better...does deck oil provide UV protection too? I'm using Sycamore because its nice and pale to burn and they will be outdoors all year round on the UK south coast, with sometimes freezing temperatures in winter, and sometimes up to 30+ degrees centigrade in the summer... I've done outdoor signs before that have faded over a year or so, only sealed them with some OSMO UV oil and yacht varnish... Do you have any advice or tips to help me seal them?
Not deck oil, but a waterproof UV resistant deck sealer is my favorite. You want something that basically turns to a hard plastic when it’s dry. Spar urethane would be my another great choice. I’ve used both, but I had problems with the spar urethane cracking before the deck sealant did. Other people might’ve had better experience the other way around, but that was my experience. Good luck!
Thank you for your help really appreciate it.
Happy to help 😊
This is so helpful! thank you so much!
Happy to hear that 😊
I use both UV and epoxy resin, I use an LED light to cure the resin instead of a UV light. I'm assuming you said epoxy bc uv resin exposes the pyrography to sun for curing? Or is there another reason too? I like UV resin bc there's less chance of surprise leaks over the side as it cures. Is UV resin an option?
Also ty for all the videos! Just did my first pyrography today under your guidance!
Either should be fine. I don’t pretend to be an expert on resin or epoxy 🙈 but as far as UV goes, you just don’t want your pyrography to have long-term UV exposure.
Glad you got a project under your belt! Well done 🔥🙌
I am so glad I found your page. You have excellent information. I am new to Pyrography, and I am in love. I was looking into shading, and your video with the sunflower is great. That is now on my list. Do you still do the Crate Club? I followed the link, but only saw 2023. I'm excited to keep learning from your page!
Glad you’re enjoying it! Pyrography is totally addictive in my opinion. As for the Crate Club, I couldn’t keep up with the demand. 😅 I have a few overstock boxes left in my Etsy shop called Red Roof Barn that you can check out. Hope you find something fun to burn! 🔥🙌
You may have said what to use, my question is, if you want to add color, I'm using oil based, what spray finish do you use before you add the color. I did not know that oil would melt, that's why I love your informative videos.
I would use a varnish for oil based projects. Glad you’re enjoying the videos 🔥🙌
Curious if we can find out the amounts you use for your mineral oil/beeswax combo that you use for food safe cutting boards… We have a bunch of beeswax from my lotion bar hobby and mineral oil from my son that is a blacksmith.
Have you ever tried Renaissance wax on a burn? I used to use it on metal jewellery x
Ooo interesting! I haven’t tried that. I would recommend getting a scrap piece of wood and trying it out to see how the sealant responds to the wood.
Needed to ask a question about the packages of cut wood you can purchase from craft stores . Are they good to wood burn on. Plan to go and purchase some wood very soon. Thank you for all your videos they are very helpful.
Depends on what type of woods it is. I’ve got a whole playlist to help people choose the best wood and avoid the worst… hope this helps! Best Wood for Wood Burning
ua-cam.com/play/PLlOnZI-MNsnFYwCARY_sRAK9zTh3YvUK5.html
Hi I've using a coffee as a wood stain on untreated wood but I'm trying to figure out to seal it also it has little bit of acrylic pen paint so any thoughts would appreciate it and I will watch this video also
Most sealants should be fine for coffee, stain and acrylic. If you are concerned, I would try it out on a scrap piece of wood first.
Ive been looking for a good finish for outdoors i make and sell shed allotment plot number plaques i warned people about fading etc i didnt think about marine varnish or resin thx for advice ❤
Happy to help!
I recall seeing somewhere to give your pyrography project a fine sanding before sealing it. Do you ever sand yours before sealing?
I sand before burning, usually not after although sometimes it calls for it. Here’s a video I talk all about sanding: ua-cam.com/video/OJ7HsQwH244/v-deo.htmlsi=XZeMv7gWjVozZHCq
About finishes on leather... Have you used mink oil as a preservative for the material. I'm just starting with woodburning, but I know leather quite well. I can not recommend mink oil enough.
Never tried it but I heard it was fantastic. Nice to hear a personal recommendation from a fellow pyro though 🙌 thanks!
I use both spray first when I use color and then a brush semi gloss. If using resin how do you not get bubbles in it?
Oh great question. I should have prefaced that. Usually you want to seal it with something else before you add resin. I like to use a brush on polycrylic or a polyurethane to give the resin a solid surface to work with. Otherwise, the air from the wood will get up into the resin. Then, of course, once you add the resin, you need to use a torch to pop the bubbles on the surface before it cures.
@@BurnSavvy Tysm that will help a lot
@conniecoffee8372 happy to help!
I'm back, haha. So I have settled on polycrylic. I absolutely love it as a finish. I have started to use splashes of color on my pieces. Prismacolor colored pencils. I had a little bleeding of the color, on a couple pieces when brushing the polycrylic on. Nothing too bad, but I dont want to ha e to deal with that often. Would it be alright to spray a little acrylic spray on the color before I brush on the polycrylic? Would that mess anything up?
Nope I think that’s great. I’ve used that same trick 🙈😂
@@BurnSavvy awesome, thank you.
Hello , I am looking the lacquer which will make Carrom board very slippery and shiny too .. please help me to get the right product ..
thank you
Your best bet would be either epoxy or several layers of gloss lacquer
@@BurnSavvycan you suggest me which company’s product is better and which is available on Amazon??? Thanks your reply
The best sealant is what the old generation used it’s completely natural if you buy it in a grocery store, in Europe if you would buy it in a Home Depot (the Europe version of that) it’s almost certain they put some chemicals with the linseed so the downside of linseed oil is that is does not protect from uv light but I still use it especially for example a cut board a butcher block
Mmm yes lots of pyros love their linseed oil. Thanks for the tip 🙌
I’m new to this whole finishing thing…. Didn’t even know it was a thing Lol. So I’m using Torch paste, on Willow wood. Just for our own wall/countertop decors would I need like a polycrylic AND a mineral oil? Or just the polycrylic? I just want a gloss or finish of some sort but I’ve been told that I need to stain and finish with a mineral oil so I’m confused do I use both or just one? I know not to use anything other than mineral oil on food surfaces
I don’t use the mineral oil first because I don’t want it to repel the polycrylic which is a water-based product. If you used an oil based product like polyurethane, you could probably do a mineral oil first. But simply seal front and back and the sides with the polycrylic 👍
I have a question though I want to use color such as sharpie markers and acrylic paint markers what do I use to finish my work
Because of the sharpie that bleeds so much, I would start with several very very light coats of spray paint.
Okay thanks for the reply
If I already used the spray clear coat on my wood burning, will liquitex clear gloss be ok to use on it or will it damage my projects? Please let me no Im new to the art
Honestly, I’m not familiar with Liquitex clear gloss. Most finishes are fine with a spray coat first as long as you lightly sand it before you apply the next finish. I would try it out on a practice piece.
I’ve just had a custom Didgeridoo made with burnt art designs on it. The clear lacquer has caused it to be sticky/tacky over the designs. The artist said, it will stay sticky/tacky for a good few weeks. Apparently the stickiness/tackiness is caused by sum reaction with the burnt wood and the lacquer. Is this true? Will the stickiness/tackiness eventually go away?
I don’t know much about woods used for didgeridoos and how sappy they are. Saps from some woods definitely interact with or resist sealants, so it’s possible. Wish I could be more help
@@BurnSavvy No problem. Thanks for your reply
This is great!! Thank you! So helpful.
So happy to hear that 🙌🔥