Recently inherited a Poulan Pro 19A42 riding lawn mower that had been sitting in a shop for 3 - 4 years. Did everything I could to resurrect it and get it started. After connecting battery I realized that the ignition wire harness had been chewed up by a rodent. While waiting for the part to come in the fresh fuel slowly leaked into the engine and also dripped out of the carb area. Thanks to your video I now know what to do to keep this riding lawn mower alive.
Just got in generator that was hydro locked, owner thought battery was dead too because the starter just clicked because it couldn't overcome the hydro lock. Good old ethanol versus rubber inlet needles! Good Vid Steve!
Thanks, Ken. The rubber tip came entirely off of the needle in this carb. It was still playable and appeared to be in good shape. I didn't have a rebuild kit in stock, or I would have put the original carb back on. 14:50
When i add a shut off valve, i prefer to have it between the tank and filter so i can change filter easier. Also i have run into cheap filters that the ethanol melts. Great channel i learned a few things.
I just followed your instructions and unlock my motor on my Briggs & Stratton Murray Rider all the valves and stuff still move clear. They're not bent I'll probably will just clean up the carburetor and do a good tune up on it and it should be good to go however it did turn over with the spark plugs out so before you couldn't even turn it with the wrench on the crankshaft. The mower set in my garage for 2 years it was definitely hydrolocked thank you thank you thank you keep making videos.
I love to hear stories like this! I’m so happy you were able to get yours running. A couple things to note: Make sure you change the oil because it will probably be mixed with fuel. Also, if it’s going to be a while before you get to the carburetor I’d place a fuel shutoff inline and only turn it on while you’re using the mower. Here’s a link to the fuel shutoff amzn.to/3GgnBrZ I also have another video that shows you how to rebuild the carburetor. NIKKI Carburetor Flooding and Surging Fix #NIKKI #Briggs #baldeagle242 ua-cam.com/video/-uzKSJhJtww/v-deo.html
About 10 -12 years ago I got a mower free from a guy said it was a piece of junk- took home- same thing- I drained 1.5 gallons of stuff out of the crank case-- Piece of grass under the needle- same carb to this day- best mower I have ever owned
Hello, had the same symptoms on a couple mowers with this carburetor this summer. Fortunately the rocker arms was still on those I worked on. Did a carb swap and double oil change to be sure. Customers happy. Thanks for the upload! 👍
I was fixing a mower this morning that wouldn't start. The fuel tank was empty even though it had been filled recently and the oil level was high and the oil looked thin. Didn't know what to make of it and came across this video by chance!
@@baldeagle242 I cleaned the float bowl valve and the fitting that it pushes into and the dirt was just a smudge on the cotton bud. But it fixed the problem. Amazing how only a small amount of dirt can prevent a proper seal.
My craftsman did the same put a turn off valve on the fuel line like you did and the first 30 minutes of running it smoked like a train and thought it was done for but it cleared up after 30 minutes on constant running and now runs like a great mower
The same thing happened to me but it was the anti backfire solenoid got stuck from crude in the bottom of the bowl and the same thing happened to my engine. To the best way to combat this was to put a fuel shutoff and turn it off when not in use and haven't had a Problem sinse. I'm glad that you showed everyone what can happen and how the engine becomes hydrolock And how gas can enter the crank case.
+@larrystover4863 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ua-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Just had the same problem today, with a 2017 Troy-Bilt TB 30 R, with a single cylinder 13 HP B & S engine. The kicker is, I actually had the same type of shutoff valve installed in the fuel line, and the beast had ran perfectly only 8 days before. Either the shutoff valve itself had started leaking by and over the previous 8 days had allowed 1/2 gallon of gas to flood thru the carb and into the engine, or that carb is leaking by so badly, that it only took 3 or 4 minutes after I opened that valve today, to empty that 1/2 gallon into the engine, before I attempted to start the engine. It was locked solid, starter couldn't even budge it. After verifying the battery wasn't the problem, I pulled the plug - and got probably a full cup worth of gas pouring out the plug hole. Checked the fuel tank, and it was bone dry. Pulled the oil dipstick, and it was the same as yours, crankcase full of gas. I'd already guessed that I'd need to pull the valve cover as well.
thank you very much, I forgot to switch the cut off gas yesterday . And my engine hydrolocked. I watched the video. and then it spit out gas thru the spark hole. and then It could run again.
I always put a shut off in the fuel line on every mower I sell. I also always put it up stream of the fuel filter so I can turn off the fuel when I change the fuel filter.
Cheap insurance for sure. I've always put it below the filter myself so I can run the fuel out of the carb quicker but it makes since to put it in front of the filter. Thanks for watching. You also have a new Subcriber. 😁👍
I had this situation on my Snapper rear engine rider recently. I removed the plug and turned the key as you did. Only difference the arc from the plug wire ignited the gas including on my ankle. Be careful.
@Rebecca Gray, your comment has made my day! Helping someone like yourself is exactly what keeps me going on these videos. I'm glad it was able to help you solve your problem. Thank you for watching and if there is anything else I can help you with don't hesitate to ask. Me or someone else on here would be more than happy to help you out.
As the father of two daughters I can relate through them. I’ve tried to teach them as much as I can about stuff like this. I’ve even made a few videos with them. ua-cam.com/video/PnNAJO2naoE/v-deo.html 😁👍
Thank you for this! Having the same issue with my moms that was sitting for a few years. Tore it all apart to change oil, found gas in it, changed spark plug, found gas. Didn’t realize the carb went bad. Figured over time it just seeped past everything. Put it all back together to find out it is froze. Didn’t know about the rocker cover so plan on getting a carb, draining the rocker cover, changing the oil again, and adding a fuel cut off later today. I didn’t think of checking the flywheel before I did anything. From troubleshooting with other videos…. I would second the other comments about never turning it over with the spark plug out. Your spitting gas out with a spark from the cable right there. I also wouldn’t start it with the oil pan with fuel under the tractor. Those things can backfire with the fuel still left in there and can catch the pan on fire with the vapor coming up from it. Can turn very bad, very fast.
Good video. So I got it to run. After it spun, I put the spark plug back and it was running. I only left it on for a few minutes. I shut it off to clean up a little bit or put things back together. Turned it back on, and then it locked up again after like 2 min while warming up or getting hot? I did hear a clunk or one knock before it stopped by itself. Any ideas?
Check to see if the oil is overfilled. If the cylinder had fuel, there is a good chance it leaked past the rings and filled your crankcase. This will cause it to lock up because the piston doesn't have enough room to bottom out without trying to compress the oil and fuel mixture. This can also cause permanent severe engine damage.
+@johncollins8304 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ua-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
I have 0 experience with this kind of stuff, and right now i'm going to be attempting to find all these things on a john deer z trak 0 point mower. Your video was quick yet thorough and informative, and I feel a lot more confident going into this now. The only difference I see is that on my mower it tries to turn over repeatedly and quickly and it gets stuck each time, making a loud clicking noise as it gets stuck. I checked and there was no oil at all as the stick was completely dry, so i put oil to check to see if there would be a difference, and yes this time there was oil on the stick. I'm not sure if it's the carburetor, the fact that i ran it for so long with no oil (that's my bad) or both. Hopefully I can atleast use what i learned from this video to check if it's the carburetor or anything seen in this video. Once again thank you!
Discovered your channel on my suggested videos and subbed. Great content!! I always cut my fuel shut off valves ahead of the filter. It makes it less messy to change filters. Thank you and God Bless!
Thank you! I agree with the easier filter changes but the reason I do it this way is because I like to shut it off and let the carb run out of fuel when I park it. Either way works good. Thanks for watching and thanks for the sub. 🦅🇺🇸
Great video.Have never heard of hydolock. Also did not know that over filling with oil causes that. I always think cars and blown seals.Wrong scenario.Steve's got some competition.
Swap places with that Fuel Filter and the inline fuel shutoff valve. One day you want to work on the carb or change the fuel filter you can easily do it by simply turning off the fuel shutoff valve.
You absolutely got yourself a nice looking rider, I wish I was able to find deal like that where I live (PA) I actually still use my Dynamark/Noma, it's powered by a 12.5hp Tecumseh. It is an older one mid 90s but runs like the day she was purchased. I take very good care of it, installed a fuel shut off and only run ethanol free fuel and synthetic oil. Anyways great job on the fix and thank you for posting. Glad I found your channel, you got me as a subscriber
Whenever you replace the carb it is a must that you replace the large red rubber O-rings both at the carb and at the engine block which can cause a vacuum leak and are prone to not sealing well enough
Great video. I have a riding mower (troy bilt) that feel like it locks when the spark plug is in. I have the carb completely off at the moment. I did have lot off fuel come out of the hole so I removed the carb for now. Valve cover is also removed. Engine turns great when the spark plug is off.
That more than likely a broken compression release part on the cam. I show you what it looks like in this short video. ua-cam.com/users/shortsAqglY2G5fQg?feature=share
Nice video Mr Steve! I know a lot of work went into editing. I was thinking at first, a bad solenoid on that carb, but interesting that rubber tip fell off that needle. Happy Holidays! 🎄🎉
Thanks, Stella, I should have pointed it out in the video, but I could hear and feel the solenoid clicking, so I ruled that out pretty early. I've never seen the tip come off on one the way this one did. I'm trying a few new things on the editing side to keep these videos as enjoyable as I can, so there's been a little time spent learning on the fly, let's say. 😁👍 Thanks for watching, my dear; I appreciate you stopping by to watch. 🦅🇺🇸
Great video, but one suggestion. Always install the fuel shutoff between the tank and the filter. This makes the replacement of the filter much easier. Keep the great vieos coming.
+@coryadams2054 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ua-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Some of the aftermarket kits are hit or miss at best and over the past couple years seem to be getting worse. If found tiny metal flashing pieces in them and other issues over the years.
I'm on my daughter's UA-cam account. NEVER crank a flooded engine with the spark plug out and the spark plug wire ungrounded. Make sure the spark plug wire is shorted to ground. My neighbor almost started his garage on fire. The garage is made of wood and he caught his wall on fire. Luckily he had a fire extinguisher. Sometimes guys have buddies help fix things. If a buddy is in front of the spark plug hole he could get flamed.
I forgot to mention. Sometimes you can get lucky by pinching the fuel line shut and run the engine until it dies from the lack of gas. Then let the fuel flow into the carb. I find about 20 to 30 percent of the time there's a piece of crude keeping the needle from closing. When you run the engine with the fuel line shut off the float will drop as the gas is used up. Then when you let the gas flow again the little piece of crude gets washed off the needle and drops to the bottom of the float bowl. I find that it's worth the effort to do this. You're only out a couple of minutes if this doesn't work.
@@baldeagle242 i was able to buy a cordless ratchet wrench like your Husky, i don't think the Husky brand is available in Oztralia. I bought mine from a local Auto Parts store. Kit came with 2 batteries , charger and other goodies. 45nm of torque (i think that's about 34 ft lbs) and a 3 year Warranty. 🙂🚜🐻 Bear Queensland Oztralia. Happy Christmas.
My father is 83 years old and still tries his best to work on this when he can. We’ve had an amazing life working together on many things and even though he’s not able to do everything he wants he loves to share past stories and projects he’s worked on. A line my grandmother was famous for say was. “It sucks to get old but it’s better than the alternative”.
I just had the same problem with my 08 17.5 no gas in the oil but intake rocker lose and stud was backed out im missing the little cap for the intake valve can't find anywhere not in the oil or filter any idea where it would be in the motor? Just ordered one took the carburetor off and everything looks good clean. great video's Thanks
I’ve had issues with some of the cheap Amazon and eBay carbs myself. I generally hook them up to the fuel line and leave them set next to the mower for a few minutes just to make sure they don’t leak. I suggest to almost everyone to add a fuel shut off just to be safe.
Does that riding mower have a gravity fuel delivery system? My YTH Husky is a 23 HP but has a fuel pump so it shouldn’t have the same problem as yours I would think. Great video!!
This one is gravity fed with the tank under the dash. You are correct that the mowers with a rear fuel tank under the seat and a fuel pump do not suffer from the hydro-looking issue because the fuel only pumps when the engine is running. Thanks for watching. I hope to see you around on future videos. 😁👍
I have a 21 hp B&S and I have adjusted the valves but starts a little rough, and when I push the throttle up towards Run Fast, it tries to stall very slightly. If I push the throttle all the way to choke, and then back away, it dies and its hard to start again. I can keep it running by slightly moving up and down on the throttle and mowed my grass but I think its the carb. Your thoughts? Are you in the Mainville, OH area?
It depends. If you over filled it to the point the piston had no room to come back down it may have pulled the piston off the connecting rod. Pull the spark plug out and see if the piston is still traveling up and down.
Can a hydro lock occur if someone spills gas over the engine?. I’m assuming it doesn’t and a dumb question. I was thinking how running my trimmer in if it’s raining it bogs outI. Worker was running the z-mower and it just died. No back fire. Starter was bad, replacing didn’t fix it.
@Guns-Navarone Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242 Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
I mowed my yard the other day and right after I changed the oil, filter, etc. Then I cranked it up and drove it across the yard. Then I took the deck off to change the blades and spindles. Then I went to start it back up to put it in the garage and it wouldn't turn over. It just made a high pitched whine or whistling type of sound when I turned the key. I didn't notice at the time but saw a couple hours later that gas was running out of the carb. My question is, what would be the cause for the high pitched sound I heard rather than it trying to turn over? FYI, I'm not very mechanically inclined so keep that in mind with any replies....lol.
I had this very issue with my briggs motor and cleaned the carb, changed oil, etc. It still would crank so I found your video and took the valve covers off. There was just a small amount of oil behind each cover (smelling slightly of fuel). I did note that one of the valves rockers was loose on one side, so I will have to inspect, as you did, and re-set them. That said, would this loose rocker arm still create a hydrolocked situation? Thanks so much for your excellent videos!
Hey Maddie, if you’re able to pull the spark plug out and check the oil level I would start there. Slowing spin the engine over by hand with the plug out to ensure there is no fuel under the plug. If there is there’s a good chance the fuel has run back into the engine and the oil/fuel mix has raised the level so high that the piston has no room to move. If the plug is dry and the oil level looks normal then a small amount of oil in the valve cover(s) is 100% normal. When you say “it won’t crank” do you mean it cranks a little bit and stops but just doesn’t have enough power to go past a certain point? Are you able to post a short video on your channel showing what it does? (You can post it unlisted and send a link here if you want to keep others on your channel from seeing it.)
@@baldeagle242 Well, it seems that your original fix worked! The problem with it not turning over more than a few degrees *seems* to be a starter solenoid, perhaps. I ended up replacing the valve cover gaskets, which were in terrible condition, as well. When it still wouldn't turn over I tapped on the starter a few times and it fired right up. I just bought this mower used from someone who claimed there were no issues, and I should have given it a thorough once-over instead of trusting them. Thanks for your help!
as usual good video. But I find some of these New after market Carburetor surging ? Nikki or nock offs I have found 2 out of ten are defectives or bad Pilot Circuit / Idle Jet is too lean causing surging . So rebuild your old one with a kit Or plain on 3-4 hour with your micro bits drilling the Idle Jet out to get it right . Not worth my time /
@@baldeagle242 I have watched them thinking I missed or skipped some thing ? I didn't / see I'm the type that needs to know Why ? Not just ok it runs mow the lawn .when I can't figure it out ? I start asking questions .Thank you
Part number 591420 seems to be the correct magneto upgrade for my 1974 B&S 80202. I think my flywheel magnet is a NSN. Do you know if I can be certain that 591420 will work with my magnet since it's a 1974 engine? I read that Briggs changed to SNS magnets at some point in time. Thanks.
I’m not 100% certain what years will work with what parts. It’s been many years since I worked on the older stuff enough to remember what parts were compatible. Hopefully someone else with a little more knowledge will see this and help to get you a good answer.
That usually happens when an engine is left sitting for a considerable amount of time. Sometimes it’s possible to jar it loose with a brisk tap on the side of the head.
Funny thing, it was a simple fix.. I thought the valve was stuck but then I could push it with my fingers. Then I saw that the rod wasn’t fully seated against the lifter… that worked, it fired right up.
After watching this video I thought my lawnmower was Hydro locked. I took out the spark plug but no fuel came out of the cylinder and it was still locked up. It will crank about a quarter inch at a time but it doesn't ever crank over like it's supposed to. I think I have bigger problems than Hydro lock but I don't know what they are! If anyone can shed any light on my situation, please do. Thank you.
That sounds like internal engine damage. Drain the oil through a coffee filter and see if there’s any metal in it. If there is the engine is toast. You can also look down into the spark plug hole to see if the piston is moving up and down or damaged. If the first two check out good remove the valve cover(s) and confirm the valves are opening and closing. If not look for a bent or push rod that’s came out.
We have a Bobcat zero turn mower with a 20 hp. Kawasaki engine. One of my crew was mowing with it when it suddenly stopped. Got it back to shop and started to check it out. Pulled plugs, and they were dry. Could not turn engine by hand. Have not dropped oil or valve cover yet. Could it be hydrolocked?
That’s not going to be a hydrolock condition. One thing to check is oil level and check the case bolts under the flywheel to make sure one didn’t back out and catch the underside of the flywheel. If all that looks good pull the valve covers and make sure all valves are opening and closing. Other than that about the only thing left is internal damage.
Was cutting with blades engaged. Began to rattle a little then within 30 seconds good knock sound. Would the compression make that knock sound or would thst be more like metal on metal sound? Its locked up now..last couple weeks it would shut off and still had a third of gas in it yet
I would disengage the deck belt and remove it from the pulley on the bottom of the engine just to be sure something on the deck isn’t locked up preventing the engine from turning. I would then pull the spark plug and with a small rod or screwdriver check to make sure the piston is moving, if it will turn at all. If not pull the valve cover and check to see if a push rod may have bent. If both of those check out I’d drain the oil through a coffee filter and look for metal. It’s tuff to say with any certainty what’s going on with only the info you’ve shared here but my experience tells be something probably let go inside the engine. If you still don’t find anything wrong I’d pull the head off so I could get a better look at the piston and cylinder walls. If this sounds like more than what your comfortable doing I’d take it somewhere for service but be prepared for bad news.
@@baldeagle242 thanks for replying...I'll try that first step for sure bc it did feel to me before the knock sound it was something to do with what you described with the deck...
I've got a B and S, 19.0 hp engine that acts just like it is hydro locked. I pulled the engine, thinking it was the compression release, but the compression release is good. Pulled the head and put new gaskets and reset the valves. Still have the same problem. What else could it be? Dwaine
It’s possible your starter or battery are weak or you may have a bad connection somewhere. I would also confirm your oil level is correct and not over full. It sounds like you have already had the engine off to check the CR but it could be something wrapped around or restricting the pulley underneath but I would think this would be noticeable with the spark plug removed. If these things all check out good I would recheck the valve adjustment and preform a compression check to see how much compression the engine has. Without looking at the machine myself this is tuff to give a solid answer but process of elimination should get you to a solution.
I have the same problem upon attempting to start. I pulled the valve cover to adjust the valves, thinking that could be the issue. (New battery and starter) There was no fuel in the oil, valve cover, or spark plug hole. After adjusting the valves it does the same thing. Any thoughts?
It you remove the spark plug and slowly rotate the engine you should hear an audible click just as the piston comes up for the compression stroke. If you still have the valve cover off you will also see one of the valves bump open very slightly just before you hear the click. If there are broken pieces in the crankcase you may see metal if you drain the oil through an old t-shirt or paint strainer.
What advice would you give someone that doesn't know how to diagnose a motor but wants to learn...I can fix bout anything if I know what's going on with it I just never had anyone to show me how
Much of what I've learned has been hands-on before tools like youtube were available. I'm always intrigued about how stuff works and have told myself many times, “It’s already broken, so what do I have to lose? If I can't fix it, it will become parts for something else.” Today you have UA-cam and other sources on the internet. While these resources can show you how to do something, it’s real work, hands-on experience where you will gain the most knowledge. Even when I was a young kid, I would take just about anything apart just to see how it worked. I didn't always get it back together, but it taught me to pay close attention to how stuff is put together and what makes it work. Finding things that are broken, cheap, or free and getting started is about the best advise I can give you, my friend. Good luck, and thanks for stopping by the #baldeagle242 UA-cam channel. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 thank you man...I don't know that I could have gotten better advice...your right...n I know if I can take it apart I can usually fix it but I have been intimidated by motors most of my life I didn't have anyone around to teach me and I was into playing music I play 14 different instruments but never got into cars and motors till I had my first home... Thinking about getting a motor and an old timer to kinda guide me through it putting it back together ...but I'll get there I've been buying tools for years...but I am getting better than I was
@@BIGGUN3460 If you take your time and pay attention there's not as much to it as you think. Take pictures and document everything as you go. It's funny how often I refer back to my video footage to see how something came apart. 😁👍
My wife’s kitchen cabinets. 🤣👍 Seriously though it’s a measuring cup that I believe I picked up years ago from a yard sale. Here is a link for a similar one on Amazon. 👇 amzn.to/3S7KcuD
If is sieved (locked up) and no liquid is present in the spark plug hole then you more than likely have more serious issues. First thing you want to do is pull the belts off the bottom and make sure nothing is wrapped around the bottom shaft. If it’s still locked up pull the shroud off the top of the engine and make sure nothing is jammed on top of or underneath the flywheel. If that all checks out it’s internal damage and probably beyond repair.
One other thing to check: pull the valve cover off and confirm the valves are opening and closing. If it only locks up on the compression stroke and can be slowly turned over by hand that probably a broken compression release and a new cam might fix it.
I have a TroyBilt that will turn over but will not catch. I have used starter fluid and it will sputter for a few seconds but then stops, and nothing. Is it the carb?
@@baldeagle242 I just finished getting my power washer motor working by cleaning out the carb bowl and float which were all gunked up. Based on that, I think my best course of action is to do the same to the Troybilt and see if that does it. I'll let you know.
I think our fuel supply is getting worse every year. I pulled a NIKKI carb apart yesterday and the rubber parts were swelled up to twice there normal size.
It’s one of two things. Either the engine is getting too much air or not enough fuel. Start by checking for vacuum leaks around the carburetor. If that doesn’t work check for water in your fuel or dirt that has clogged the main jet.
Fantastic work bald eagle sir. Thoroughly enjoyed. Well done indeed ! 👏🏻👍🏻🔧🎅🏻
Thank you, sir. Thanks for watching.
Recently inherited a Poulan Pro 19A42 riding lawn mower that had been sitting in a shop for 3 - 4 years. Did everything I could to resurrect it and get it started. After connecting battery I realized that the ignition wire harness had been chewed up by a rodent. While waiting for the part to come in the fresh fuel slowly leaked into the engine and also dripped out of the carb area. Thanks to your video I now know what to do to keep this riding lawn mower alive.
Just got in generator that was hydro locked, owner thought battery was dead too because the starter just clicked because it couldn't overcome the hydro lock. Good old ethanol versus rubber inlet needles! Good Vid Steve!
Thanks, Ken. The rubber tip came entirely off of the needle in this carb. It was still playable and appeared to be in good shape. I didn't have a rebuild kit in stock, or I would have put the original carb back on. 14:50
When i add a shut off valve, i prefer to have it between the tank and filter so i can change filter easier. Also i have run into cheap filters that the ethanol melts. Great channel i learned a few things.
That's a good point. It would allow for simple filter changes.
Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
Say I love your videos, you helped me big time, so thanks for what you do. I have a question, how do I stop my lawnmower from getting hydrolocked?
I just followed your instructions and unlock my motor on my Briggs & Stratton Murray Rider all the valves and stuff still move clear. They're not bent I'll probably will just clean up the carburetor and do a good tune up on it and it should be good to go however it did turn over with the spark plugs out so before you couldn't even turn it with the wrench on the crankshaft. The mower set in my garage for 2 years it was definitely hydrolocked thank you thank you thank you keep making videos.
I love to hear stories like this! I’m so happy you were able to get yours running. A couple things to note: Make sure you change the oil because it will probably be mixed with fuel. Also, if it’s going to be a while before you get to the carburetor I’d place a fuel shutoff inline and only turn it on while you’re using the mower.
Here’s a link to the fuel shutoff
amzn.to/3GgnBrZ
I also have another video that shows you how to rebuild the carburetor.
NIKKI Carburetor Flooding and Surging Fix #NIKKI #Briggs #baldeagle242
ua-cam.com/video/-uzKSJhJtww/v-deo.html
About 10 -12 years ago I got a mower free from a guy said it was a piece of junk- took home- same thing- I drained 1.5 gallons of stuff out of the crank case-- Piece of grass under the needle- same carb to this day- best mower I have ever owned
I love that kind of “junk” mower. 😁
Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
Hello, had the same symptoms on a couple mowers with this carburetor this summer. Fortunately the rocker arms was still on those I worked on. Did a carb swap and double oil change to be sure. Customers happy. Thanks for the upload! 👍
this happened to me and the spark plug lit the gas on fire , GOOD VIDEOS THX Ed Loretto Ontario Canada
I'm glad that didn't happen here. That could have been not good! Thanks for watching Ed. 🦅🇺🇸
I was fixing a mower this morning that wouldn't start. The fuel tank was empty even though it had been filled recently and the oil level was high and the oil looked thin. Didn't know what to make of it and came across this video by chance!
It’s a pretty common problem on these mowers.
@@baldeagle242 I cleaned the float bowl valve and the fitting that it pushes into and the dirt was just a smudge on the cotton bud. But it fixed the problem. Amazing how only a small amount of dirt can prevent a proper seal.
My craftsman did the same put a turn off valve on the fuel line like you did and the first 30 minutes of running it smoked like a train and thought it was done for but it cleared up after 30 minutes on constant running and now runs like a great mower
The same thing happened to me but it was the anti backfire solenoid got stuck from crude in the bottom of the bowl and the same thing happened to my engine. To the best way to combat this was to put a fuel shutoff and turn it off when not in use and haven't had a Problem sinse. I'm glad that you showed everyone what can happen and how the engine becomes hydrolock And how gas can enter the crank case.
+@larrystover4863 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ua-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Great video, exactly what I needed to know. $100 for that mower was a good price too, there's no way you could have gone wrong there!
Just had the same problem today, with a 2017 Troy-Bilt TB 30 R, with a single cylinder 13 HP B & S engine. The kicker is, I actually had the same type of shutoff valve installed in the fuel line, and the beast had ran perfectly only 8 days before.
Either the shutoff valve itself had started leaking by and over the previous 8 days had allowed 1/2 gallon of gas to flood thru the carb and into the engine, or that carb is leaking by so badly, that it only took 3 or 4 minutes after I opened that valve today, to empty that 1/2 gallon into the engine, before I attempted to start the engine.
It was locked solid, starter couldn't even budge it. After verifying the battery wasn't the problem, I pulled the plug - and got probably a full cup worth of gas pouring out the plug hole. Checked the fuel tank, and it was bone dry. Pulled the oil dipstick, and it was the same as yours, crankcase full of gas. I'd already guessed that I'd need to pull the valve cover as well.
You just have to love the voice of experience. Its like watching a mechanical clairvoyant.
🤣👍
thank you very much, I forgot to switch the cut off gas yesterday . And my engine hydrolocked. I watched the video. and then it spit out gas thru the spark hole. and then It could run again.
I always put a shut off in the fuel line on every mower I sell. I also always put it up stream of the fuel filter so I can turn off the fuel when I change the fuel filter.
Cheap insurance for sure. I've always put it below the filter myself so I can run the fuel out of the carb quicker but it makes since to put it in front of the filter. Thanks for watching.
You also have a new Subcriber. 😁👍
I had this situation on my Snapper rear engine rider recently. I removed the plug and turned the key as you did. Only difference the arc from the plug wire ignited the gas including on my ankle. Be careful.
Oh wow! Glad that didn’t happen here. 🤯
My hood does not have that information under the hood I have looked everywhere on my craftsman 42 in 18.5 hp riding mower great videos 👍🏻🤘🏻
Nicely done. I have a feeling my JD is hydro locked. Hopefully I can get it fixed. 🍻
Good luck with it. Let me know what you find. 😬
This really helped this 82-year-old woman.
@Rebecca Gray, your comment has made my day! Helping someone like yourself is exactly what keeps me going on these videos. I'm glad it was able to help you solve your problem. Thank you for watching and if there is anything else I can help you with don't hesitate to ask. Me or someone else on here would be more than happy to help you out.
Gosh I thought I was doing great watching and learning this at 61. Woman we are in a class of our own !God bless ya 😊 Keep on keepin on !!
As the father of two daughters I can relate through them. I’ve tried to teach them as much as I can about stuff like this. I’ve even made a few videos with them. ua-cam.com/video/PnNAJO2naoE/v-deo.html
😁👍
I have the same one 😂 used same ball valve as well.
Thank you for this! Having the same issue with my moms that was sitting for a few years. Tore it all apart to change oil, found gas in it, changed spark plug, found gas. Didn’t realize the carb went bad. Figured over time it just seeped past everything. Put it all back together to find out it is froze.
Didn’t know about the rocker cover so plan on getting a carb, draining the rocker cover, changing the oil again, and adding a fuel cut off later today.
I didn’t think of checking the flywheel before I did anything.
From troubleshooting with other videos….
I would second the other comments about never turning it over with the spark plug out. Your spitting gas out with a spark from the cable right there.
I also wouldn’t start it with the oil pan with fuel under the tractor. Those things can backfire with the fuel still left in there and can catch the pan on fire with the vapor coming up from it.
Can turn very bad, very fast.
Man I can remember the first time I found that problem. You did an awesome job here brother! keep it up
Thank you, Sir. I tried to keep this one as short as possible but still show as many details as possible. 🦅🇺🇸
Good video. So I got it to run. After it spun, I put the spark plug back and it was running. I only left it on for a few minutes. I shut it off to clean up a little bit or put things back together. Turned it back on, and then it locked up again after like 2 min while warming up or getting hot? I did hear a clunk or one knock before it stopped by itself. Any ideas?
Check to see if the oil is overfilled. If the cylinder had fuel, there is a good chance it leaked past the rings and filled your crankcase. This will cause it to lock up because the piston doesn't have enough room to bottom out without trying to compress the oil and fuel mixture. This can also cause permanent severe engine damage.
Hydrolock...often heard of it, now I've seen it speculated, proved and solved. Subbed. Thank you.
+@johncollins8304 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ua-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Excellent video! I just encountered the same issue on a used one I just purchased. Thank you very much for the video.
I have 0 experience with this kind of stuff, and right now i'm going to be attempting to find all these things on a john deer z trak 0 point mower. Your video was quick yet thorough and informative, and I feel a lot more confident going into this now. The only difference I see is that on my mower it tries to turn over repeatedly and quickly and it gets stuck each time, making a loud clicking noise as it gets stuck. I checked and there was no oil at all as the stick was completely dry, so i put oil to check to see if there would be a difference, and yes this time there was oil on the stick. I'm not sure if it's the carburetor, the fact that i ran it for so long with no oil (that's my bad) or both. Hopefully I can atleast use what i learned from this video to check if it's the carburetor or anything seen in this video. Once again thank you!
Love too see fire extinguishers all over the shop good Safety! Most people over look them and don’t have a single one.
I have one within arms reach everywhere I go. I survived an apartment fire when I was in my early 20’s and have never forgot that lesson. 😁👍
@@baldeagle242 yes never know when you will need one!
Discovered your channel on my suggested videos and subbed. Great content!! I always cut my fuel shut off valves ahead of the filter. It makes it less messy to change filters. Thank you and God Bless!
Thank you! I agree with the easier filter changes but the reason I do it this way is because I like to shut it off and let the carb run out of fuel when I park it. Either way works good. Thanks for watching and thanks for the sub. 🦅🇺🇸
Great video.Have never heard of hydolock. Also did not know that over filling with oil causes that. I always think cars and blown seals.Wrong scenario.Steve's got some competition.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Swap places with that Fuel Filter and the inline fuel shutoff valve. One day you want to work on the carb or change the fuel filter you can easily do it by simply turning off the fuel shutoff valve.
Great video, I sure would like to see the lift your using.
It’s a warehouse pallet stacker. I’m going to make short video on it in the next few weeks.
amzn.to/3VSkUkz
Good work sir. Its always those DANG Nikki carbs. That's the 1st time I've seen the needle tip come off though
Thanks for watching, Dave. I've never seen that happen either. The rubber was still in good condition just Somehow detached.
You also have a new sub. 😁👍
Done good there bud great video. Thanks
Thanks for watching my friend.
Hey, the old dog tomboy is learning new things. Thanks.
@Julie Gunter thanks for watching.
You absolutely got yourself a nice looking rider, I wish I was able to find deal like that where I live (PA) I actually still use my Dynamark/Noma, it's powered by a 12.5hp Tecumseh. It is an older one mid 90s but runs like the day she was purchased. I take very good care of it, installed a fuel shut off and only run ethanol free fuel and synthetic oil. Anyways great job on the fix and thank you for posting. Glad I found your channel, you got me as a subscriber
It's amazing how long these things will last with a little TLC and regular maintenance. Thanks for watching and thanks for the sub! 🦅🇺🇸
Well laid out and to the point! thank you, just a hobbyist here!
Thanks for watching, David. 🇺🇸🦅
Whenever you replace the carb it is a must that you replace the large red rubber O-rings both at the carb and at the engine block which can cause a vacuum leak and are prone to not sealing well enough
Great find and fix Steve!
Thanks Bre! I wish they were all this easy. 😁👍
Happy New Year to you and your Family. 🎉🎉🎉
And the hits keep coming. NICE!!!!!!
Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
Her video was very informative. I think you're great at that small engine is always bad for me but you make it look simple. Thank you!
I was about to pull a cam before I found your video THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!
😁👍
Great video. I have a riding mower (troy bilt) that feel like it locks when the spark plug is in. I have the carb completely off at the moment. I did have lot off fuel come out of the hole so I removed the carb for now. Valve cover is also removed.
Engine turns great when the spark plug is off.
That more than likely a broken compression release part on the cam. I show you what it looks like in this short video. ua-cam.com/users/shortsAqglY2G5fQg?feature=share
Nicely done video sir. Great camera shots and audio . That machine should be a money maker for you! 👍🇺🇸💰Roger
Thanks for watching Roger. I appreciate the kind words. 🦅🇺🇸
Thanks Baldeagle, have a great one
You’re welcome Mike. Thanks for watching. 😁👍🇺🇸🦅
Great video! I used this to help troubleshoot my Craftsman YS4500!
Nice video Mr Steve! I know a lot of work went into editing. I was thinking at first, a bad solenoid on that carb, but interesting that rubber tip fell off that needle. Happy Holidays! 🎄🎉
Thanks, Stella, I should have pointed it out in the video, but I could hear and feel the solenoid clicking, so I ruled that out pretty early. I've never seen the tip come off on one the way this one did. I'm trying a few new things on the editing side to keep these videos as enjoyable as I can, so there's been a little time spent learning on the fly, let's say. 😁👍
Thanks for watching, my dear; I appreciate you stopping by to watch. 🦅🇺🇸
@Baldeagle242 I hear ya! I realize I left out a few key moments in my last video. Oh well, too late now. 😂
@@TheLawnmowerLady I've been known to edit the subtitles now and then to say what I really meant to say. ;-)
Great video, but one suggestion. Always install the fuel shutoff between the tank and the filter. This makes the replacement of the filter much easier. Keep the great vieos coming.
+@coryadams2054 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ua-cam.com/play/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79.html&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
I have a couple rebuild kits and found that the float does not allow the needle to drop down at all.
Some of the aftermarket kits are hit or miss at best and over the past couple years seem to be getting worse. If found tiny metal flashing pieces in them and other issues over the years.
Someone that still use a regular gas can! SCORE💪🏾
I can't stand the newer style gas cans. I'm holding on to my 30-year-old cans as long as I can. Thanks for watching my friend. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 Exactly💪🏾
I'm on my daughter's UA-cam account. NEVER crank a flooded engine with the spark plug out and the spark plug wire ungrounded. Make sure the spark plug wire is shorted to ground. My neighbor almost started his garage on fire. The garage is made of wood and he caught his wall on fire. Luckily he had a fire extinguisher. Sometimes guys have buddies help fix things. If a buddy is in front of the spark plug hole he could get flamed.
I forgot to mention. Sometimes you can get lucky by pinching the fuel line shut and run the engine until it dies from the lack of gas. Then let the fuel flow into the carb. I find about 20 to 30 percent of the time there's a piece of crude keeping the needle from closing. When you run the engine with the fuel line shut off the float will drop as the gas is used up. Then when you let the gas flow again the little piece of crude gets washed off the needle and drops to the bottom of the float bowl. I find that it's worth the effort to do this. You're only out a couple of minutes if this doesn't work.
Oh My Goodness!! Is your daughter Nicki Gilbert the lead singer of the group Brownstone?! 😃
As per usual a very informative video. I would love to be able to buy a tractor mower similar to this in Oztralia for $100.
I appreciate you sticking around to watch this Greg. I know it's 2:00am where you're at. The $100 mowers don't come along like this very often.
@@baldeagle242 i was able to buy a cordless ratchet wrench like your Husky, i don't think the Husky brand is available in Oztralia. I bought mine from a local Auto Parts store. Kit came with 2 batteries , charger and other goodies. 45nm of torque (i think that's about 34 ft lbs) and a 3 year Warranty. 🙂🚜🐻 Bear Queensland Oztralia. Happy Christmas.
Great video! And that lift seems to make maintenance a lot easier. Care to share what you're using?
It’s a warehouse pallet stacker. You can find them used on eBay or marketplace for around $500 US. They are over $2000 new. amzn.to/3m5TFqG
Got any videos on Cub Cadet Hydro Transmissions check into fluid and change the fluid nobody seems to have one on the internet
Unfortunately I do not. I've been pretty lucky with those mowers and haven't had to pull one apart. Yet!
If I do I'll be sure to make a video.
It's been about 2 years since I've been able to work on a lawnmower
My father is 83 years old and still tries his best to work on this when he can. We’ve had an amazing life working together on many things and even though he’s not able to do everything he wants he loves to share past stories and projects he’s worked on. A line my grandmother was famous for say was. “It sucks to get old but it’s better than the alternative”.
I just had the same problem with my 08 17.5 no gas in the oil but intake rocker lose and stud was backed out im missing the little cap for the intake valve can't find anywhere not in the oil or filter any idea where it would be in the motor? Just ordered one took the carburetor off and everything looks good clean. great video's Thanks
Bargain find good info nice job...... BE 242 !
Thanks John. 😁👍
Much appreciated
Great instructional video. I like your quick to the point instructions.
Thank you. 😁👍
Good buy good profit tine
put a new carb on and it still does it. I've had the valve to shut the fuel off for awhile but thought a new carb would fix that.
I’ve had issues with some of the cheap Amazon and eBay carbs myself. I generally hook them up to the fuel line and leave them set next to the mower for a few minutes just to make sure they don’t leak. I suggest to almost everyone to add a fuel shut off just to be safe.
Good done
Thanks
Thanks for another informative video.
Looking forward to more content. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Same problem......gas in my oil, last season. swapped carb, after draining the oil and BAM.....going to but the rebuild kit
Always put hose clamps on every connection. Hydro locked engines do happen occasionally, and it stumps most people that don't know what to look for.
Thanks for watching. 😁👍
Merry Christmas
Thank you.
Good video!!
Thank you. 😁👍
Great video!, Informative and well explained. Keep up the great work Steve!
Thanks, Johnny!
Does that riding mower have a gravity fuel delivery system? My YTH Husky is a 23 HP but has a fuel pump so it shouldn’t have the same problem as yours I would think. Great video!!
This one is gravity fed with the tank under the dash. You are correct that the mowers with a rear fuel tank under the seat and a fuel pump do not suffer from the hydro-looking issue because the fuel only pumps when the engine is running. Thanks for watching. I hope to see you around on future videos. 😁👍
I have a 21 hp B&S and I have adjusted the valves but starts a little rough, and when I push the throttle up towards Run Fast, it tries to stall very slightly. If I push the throttle all the way to choke, and then back away, it dies and its hard to start again. I can keep it running by slightly moving up and down on the throttle and mowed my grass but I think its the carb. Your thoughts? Are you in the Mainville, OH area?
A carb clean and rebuild will fix this issue most of the time. An aftermarket carb should be your last resort.
awesome steve!
Thanks Tom! Merry Christmas my friend.
@@baldeagle242 Merry Christmas to you and yours Steve!
I have a similar problem, it over full with oil. Now it has no compression. Do you think it's fixable.
It depends. If you over filled it to the point the piston had no room to come back down it may have pulled the piston off the connecting rod. Pull the spark plug out and see if the piston is still traveling up and down.
Thanks so much
You’re welcome. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
great job thanks
+dennis jackson Thank you so much for taking the time to share your comment! I hope to see you around on future videos. 😊👍
Can a hydro lock occur if someone spills gas over the engine?. I’m assuming it doesn’t and a dumb question. I was thinking how running my trimmer in if it’s raining it bogs outI.
Worker was running the z-mower and it just died. No back fire. Starter was bad, replacing didn’t fix it.
Not very likely. Sounds like something else.
Good information
@Guns-Navarone Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242
Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
I mowed my yard the other day and right after I changed the oil, filter, etc. Then I cranked it up and drove it across the yard. Then I took the deck off to change the blades and spindles. Then I went to start it back up to put it in the garage and it wouldn't turn over. It just made a high pitched whine or whistling type of sound when I turned the key. I didn't notice at the time but saw a couple hours later that gas was running out of the carb. My question is, what would be the cause for the high pitched sound I heard rather than it trying to turn over? FYI, I'm not very mechanically inclined so keep that in mind with any replies....lol.
Appreciate it bro.!
I had this very issue with my briggs motor and cleaned the carb, changed oil, etc. It still would crank so I found your video and took the valve covers off. There was just a small amount of oil behind each cover (smelling slightly of fuel).
I did note that one of the valves rockers was loose on one side, so I will have to inspect, as you did, and re-set them. That said, would this loose rocker arm still create a hydrolocked situation?
Thanks so much for your excellent videos!
*it still WOULDNT crank. UA-cam wasn't allowing me to edit the comment.
Hey Maddie, if you’re able to pull the spark plug out and check the oil level I would start there. Slowing spin the engine over by hand with the plug out to ensure there is no fuel under the plug. If there is there’s a good chance the fuel has run back into the engine and the oil/fuel mix has raised the level so high that the piston has no room to move. If the plug is dry and the oil level looks normal then a small amount of oil in the valve cover(s) is 100% normal.
When you say “it won’t crank” do you mean it cranks a little bit and stops but just doesn’t have enough power to go past a certain point?
Are you able to post a short video on your channel showing what it does? (You can post it unlisted and send a link here if you want to keep others on your channel from seeing it.)
@@baldeagle242 Well, it seems that your original fix worked! The problem with it not turning over more than a few degrees *seems* to be a starter solenoid, perhaps. I ended up replacing the valve cover gaskets, which were in terrible condition, as well. When it still wouldn't turn over I tapped on the starter a few times and it fired right up.
I just bought this mower used from someone who claimed there were no issues, and I should have given it a thorough once-over instead of trusting them.
Thanks for your help!
@maddieclark7672 You’re welcome. If the solenoid doesn’t fix your issue it’s possible the compression release has broken. Hopefully not!
@@baldeagle242 Oof. I hope not. Would you say that changing the oil once (filter, too) is sufficient after fuel gets in there?
My Uncle is having the same problem with destroyed built riding lawn mower they're totally he needed another engine
as usual good video. But I find some of these New after market Carburetor surging ? Nikki or nock offs I have found 2 out of ten are defectives or bad Pilot Circuit / Idle Jet is too lean causing surging . So rebuild your old one with a kit Or plain on 3-4 hour with your micro bits drilling the Idle Jet out to get it right . Not worth my time /
I couldn’t agree more. There is a part two to this video you may want to check out. 😁👍
ua-cam.com/video/-uzKSJhJtww/v-deo.html
@@baldeagle242 I have watched them thinking I missed or skipped some thing ? I didn't / see I'm the type that needs to know Why ? Not just ok it runs mow the lawn .when I can't figure it out ? I start asking questions .Thank you
Part number 591420 seems to be the correct magneto upgrade for my 1974 B&S 80202. I think my flywheel magnet is a NSN. Do you know if I can be certain that 591420 will work with my magnet since it's a 1974 engine? I read that Briggs changed to SNS magnets at some point in time. Thanks.
I’m not 100% certain what years will work with what parts. It’s been many years since I worked on the older stuff enough to remember what parts were compatible. Hopefully someone else with a little more knowledge will see this and help to get you a good answer.
Great find
I wish they were all this easy. 😁👍
I’ve got a DYT4000 has a stuck intake valve and I was wondering your thoughts on possible causes
That usually happens when an engine is left sitting for a considerable amount of time.
Sometimes it’s possible to jar it loose with a brisk tap on the side of the head.
Funny thing, it was a simple fix.. I thought the valve was stuck but then I could push it with my fingers. Then I saw that the rod wasn’t fully seated against the lifter… that worked, it fired right up.
After watching this video I thought my lawnmower was Hydro locked. I took out the spark plug but no fuel came out of the cylinder and it was still locked up. It will crank about a quarter inch at a time but it doesn't ever crank over like it's supposed to. I think I have bigger problems than Hydro lock but I don't know what they are! If anyone can shed any light on my situation, please do. Thank you.
That sounds like internal engine damage. Drain the oil through a coffee filter and see if there’s any metal in it. If there is the engine is toast. You can also look down into the spark plug hole to see if the piston is moving up and down or damaged. If the first two check out good remove the valve cover(s) and confirm the valves are opening and closing. If not look for a bent or push rod that’s came out.
We have a Bobcat zero turn mower with a 20 hp. Kawasaki engine. One of my crew was mowing with it when it suddenly stopped. Got it back to shop and started to check it out. Pulled plugs, and they were dry. Could not turn engine by hand. Have not dropped oil or valve cover yet. Could it be hydrolocked?
That’s not going to be a hydrolock condition. One thing to check is oil level and check the case bolts under the flywheel to make sure one didn’t back out and catch the underside of the flywheel. If all that looks good pull the valve covers and make sure all valves are opening and closing. Other than that about the only thing left is internal damage.
Was cutting with blades engaged. Began to rattle a little then within 30 seconds good knock sound. Would the compression make that knock sound or would thst be more like metal on metal sound? Its locked up now..last couple weeks it would shut off and still had a third of gas in it yet
I would disengage the deck belt and remove it from the pulley on the bottom of the engine just to be sure something on the deck isn’t locked up preventing the engine from turning. I would then pull the spark plug and with a small rod or screwdriver check to make sure the piston is moving, if it will turn at all. If not pull the valve cover and check to see if a push rod may have bent. If both of those check out I’d drain the oil through a coffee filter and look for metal. It’s tuff to say with any certainty what’s going on with only the info you’ve shared here but my experience tells be something probably let go inside the engine. If you still don’t find anything wrong I’d pull the head off so I could get a better look at the piston and cylinder walls. If this sounds like more than what your comfortable doing I’d take it somewhere for service but be prepared for bad news.
@@baldeagle242 thanks for replying...I'll try that first step for sure bc it did feel to me before the knock sound it was something to do with what you described with the deck...
@@majikman7355 I’d be interested to know what you find. Hopefully nothing major. Good luck with it. 👍
I've got a B and S, 19.0 hp engine that acts just like it is hydro locked. I pulled the engine, thinking it was the compression release, but the compression release is good. Pulled the head and put new gaskets and reset the valves. Still have the same problem. What else could it be? Dwaine
Does it turn over ok with the spar plug removed?
@@baldeagle242
Yes, it does. @@baldeagle242
It’s possible your starter or battery are weak or you may have a bad connection somewhere. I would also confirm your oil level is correct and not over full. It sounds like you have already had the engine off to check the CR but it could be something wrapped around or restricting the pulley underneath but I would think this would be noticeable with the spark plug removed. If these things all check out good I would recheck the valve adjustment and preform a compression check to see how much compression the engine has. Without looking at the machine myself this is tuff to give a solid answer but process of elimination should get you to a solution.
i like you job
Thank you. 😄
I have the same problem upon attempting to start. I pulled the valve cover to adjust the valves, thinking that could be the issue. (New battery and starter) There was no fuel in the oil, valve cover, or spark plug hole. After adjusting the valves it does the same thing. Any thoughts?
Possibly the compression release.
@@baldeagle242
Thank you!
That is located on the cam shaft correct? Is there a way to verify that is indeed the issue before opening it up?
It you remove the spark plug and slowly rotate the engine you should hear an audible click just as the piston comes up for the compression stroke. If you still have the valve cover off you will also see one of the valves bump open very slightly just before you hear the click. If there are broken pieces in the crankcase you may see metal if you drain the oil through an old t-shirt or paint strainer.
I'm surprised you didn't have a rod knocking.
Yeah, or a blown head gasket. The starter is so weak on these things it really doesn’t have enough power to do damage like that… most of the time. 😁👍
What is the part number of your fuel shutoff?
Here’s a link to the shut off on Amazon. Briggs & Stratton 698183 Fuel Shut-Off Valve
amzn.to/3rCvSRQ
Do you have a link to those battery terminal adapters
In this video or from another video? Can you reference a time stamp from the video?
What advice would you give someone that doesn't know how to diagnose a motor but wants to learn...I can fix bout anything if I know what's going on with it I just never had anyone to show me how
Much of what I've learned has been hands-on before tools like youtube were available. I'm always intrigued about how stuff works and have told myself many times, “It’s already broken, so what do I have to lose? If I can't fix it, it will become parts for something else.” Today you have UA-cam and other sources on the internet. While these resources can show you how to do something, it’s real work, hands-on experience where you will gain the most knowledge. Even when I was a young kid, I would take just about anything apart just to see how it worked. I didn't always get it back together, but it taught me to pay close attention to how stuff is put together and what makes it work. Finding things that are broken, cheap, or free and getting started is about the best advise I can give you, my friend. Good luck, and thanks for stopping by the #baldeagle242 UA-cam channel. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 thank you man...I don't know that I could have gotten better advice...your right...n I know if I can take it apart I can usually fix it but I have been intimidated by motors most of my life I didn't have anyone around to teach me and I was into playing music I play 14 different instruments but never got into cars and motors till I had my first home... Thinking about getting a motor and an old timer to kinda guide me through it putting it back together ...but I'll get there I've been buying tools for years...but I am getting better than I was
@@BIGGUN3460 If you take your time and pay attention there's not as much to it as you think. Take pictures and document everything as you go. It's funny how often I refer back to my video footage to see how something came apart. 😁👍
It is too low
Where did you get that thing to measure the oil
My wife’s kitchen cabinets. 🤣👍
Seriously though it’s a measuring cup that I believe I picked up years ago from a yard sale.
Here is a link for a similar one on Amazon. 👇
amzn.to/3S7KcuD
I'm having this issue but when I pull the spark plug no liquid comes out. Does that mean it's another issue or could it be the same issue still?
If is sieved (locked up) and no liquid is present in the spark plug hole then you more than likely have more serious issues. First thing you want to do is pull the belts off the bottom and make sure nothing is wrapped around the bottom shaft. If it’s still locked up pull the shroud off the top of the engine and make sure nothing is jammed on top of or underneath the flywheel. If that all checks out it’s internal damage and probably beyond repair.
One other thing to check: pull the valve cover off and confirm the valves are opening and closing. If it only locks up on the compression stroke and can be slowly turned over by hand that probably a broken compression release and a new cam might fix it.
I have a TroyBilt that will turn over but will not catch. I have used starter fluid and it will sputter for a few seconds but then stops, and nothing. Is it the carb?
That could be carb, weak spark (coil) or possible low compression. Without more details it’s difficult to answer definitively.
@@baldeagle242 I just finished getting my power washer motor working by cleaning out the carb bowl and float which were all gunked up. Based on that, I think my best course of action is to do the same to the Troybilt and see if that does it. I'll let you know.
Picked up the same mower, (not in as good of condition as yours). Crankcase over filled with old gas.
Later...
I think our fuel supply is getting worse every year. I pulled a NIKKI carb apart yesterday and the rubber parts were swelled up to twice there normal size.
@@baldeagle242 I'm in Iowa, and use to be proud to use ethanol gas, since working on mowers I don't even waste money on it.
@@caseybszombiemowers2569 it’s a killer for sure.
I change new Nikki carburetor but engine stil surging, motor briggs and stratton. What a problem ?
It’s one of two things. Either the engine is getting too much air or not enough fuel.
Start by checking for vacuum leaks around the carburetor. If that doesn’t work check for water in your fuel or dirt that has clogged the main jet.
I solve problem, i bend metal plate with spring for more pover and engine run beter and no surging.