The Partlist (Partlist-Info-Heated-DryBox.txt) with all parts and links to abtain the parts, is allready stored on printables beside the STL files. The text file also contains some additional information. Please check this.@@grimwaltzman
Great video! I have been searching for a diy box like this for about 6 months. I have already invested in some components to build something similar using a larger box for 4 spools. Some of those components will have to be replaced because I like the vent feature you incorporated using the Nano and lcd display. Even in my Sovol dryer I noticed I have to vent the humidity out when drying for it to be effective. Trying to follow the bread board schematic was a bit of a challenge for me. It showed a 35v 10um cap that wasn't in the video. In researching the DHT11 I found it to spec 0C-50C and 20%-90% humidity range. The data sheet also explained that the cap and resistor are incorporated in the module but would have to be added to a stand alone sensor. I then came across a DHT22 sensor. I am incorporating this sensor instead. it's range is -40C to 80C and 0% to 100% humidity, a bit more accurate and uses the same voltage as in your circuit but can handle up to 6 volts. I like to get my filament to under 15% humidity and I use a lot of ABS. ABS, Nylon and such have a drying temperature of 75 -80C. The schematic could be a little more detailed for the 5v side of things but it gets me to where I want to go. THANK You for awesome effort and direction.
The electronic circuit is quite simple from my view and many people are using this Fritzing diagrams. So i thought it would be the best way. Yes i forgot to mention the 10um cap in the video. Room for two spools was enough for me and i wanted the Ikea365 box because the box is easy to get in almost each country. To be honest, the heater solution was my second try. The first one fails with a bad result. The second works fine. For a bigger box you need an additional heater unit. The MosFets will be able to handle both. I know the DHT11 is not the best choice. But it is cheap and is completely sufficient for control. Decisive for the best result is the ventilation at intervals. Accurate temperature is not that importent. The DHT22 is indeed the better choice. However, it also costs three times as much as the DHT11. With the concept of this box it is possible to get the humidity below 10%. In the test i didn't reach this value due to the time limit of 1hour.
The DHT11 generally works fine. I am building 3 boxes to store and print out of. Amazon has 5 DHT11s for $8.99 and 3 DHT22s for $10.79. Those are the modules and not the just the sensors. So they cost twice as much but for myself worth it for the added monitoring/accuracy range. I'm also using 2 24v 30w polyimide heaters on an aluminum plate with a 40x20 fan. They blow more cfms and I can make it fit better in the ezystorage 18L box I'm using (HomeDepot in the US). I'm also using 2 intakes and exhausts on each box. These items I already had and the LM7805 will also work with the 24v supply. @@werners_corner
@@nickvee9468Sounds also interesting. Did you check out, if the two heater have enought power to heat up this big box? I am using 50W for a 10L box. Shure, the 7805 will work fine. I am not shure, if you realy need two intakes and exhausts. My small 40x10 fans are not driven at full power. There is still reserve left. However, the fun is to research and try out, which solution will work fine.
I planed on sticking aluminum reflective insulation inside the box which should keep the heat in and any condensation from forming between the box walls and insulation. As far as the ventilation. I'm not that thrilled about cutting a lot of holes in an air tight container so I'm still thinking about that aspect. I was looking at using a silicone disk/diaphragm type of valve. Like the valve used on vacuum bags. I think it's more air tight than the louvered design. The part I am going to have the most trouble with is sketching the arduino. I have forgotten/lost a lot in 15 years since I last worked with them and the "accidents" @@werners_corner
@@nickvee9468I also thought about an insulation inside the box. But for the i skiped this. My box isn't that big. Therefore it is not so necessary. I doubt, that the fan is able to open such kind of valves. That's reason, i designed and printed the in- and outtake with this flaps. I didn't plan to store the filament for longer time in this box. In this way, the box is not 100% air tight. To solve this problem for long time storage, i thought about a cap for covering the intake and outtake. The small remaining leak will no longer have a significant impact. Also you can add a little box with siicat gel while the box is powerd up.
Heated with silica gel? This will also work fine. But you have to change the silica from time to time. I have a bunch of filament rolls. So i prefer to use the small boxes (only with silica) for storage and printing. I use the heated box only for intensive drying.
Funny, I was working on the EXACT same thing and just finished most of it :) I lost my moisture sensor tho (I had to look hard to find one that would work up to 85c, and the datasheet was Chinese...) so I manually open the lid every now and then to let the steam out instead of using one way valves and a fan. I am not good at PCB design but I can share the PCB with you and my code if you want :)
Thank you. But i think there is no need for a pcb for this project. The used prototyping pcb is just for for providing proper connectors to wireing everything. May be someone else is interested. So feel free to share a link here or on printables.
Generally, this should work. Due to the lower resistance, a stronger power supply will be required. Try it out. I haven't tried a 100W PTC myself yet. The parameters for the control may need to be adjusted.
hi,I am using as a guide your project,making use of your stl file converted to model file, and build another model as need.I cannot find an 10.4 l ikea box, because in my country the main ikea doesnt sell, so i modeling and building an plexiglass box.Also the ptc heater is another model and the stl file doesnt fit.The same as the extraction fan, which mine is an 5015, which i had as an leftover from building the printer.On remark i have to make.At least on the mosfet used to power the heater try to get out of the box, because he needs cooling a lot.You rik overheating and breaking and in this case kiling the arduino.Thanks for the ideea.
Sounds interesting. But for designed 50/60 Watt, the MOSFet don't get hot. Up to 100W it also shouldn't be a problem without cooling. The MOSFet modules are specified with 35A/400W. But i doubt that they can handle this. You can also take a look for another MOSFet. You don't have to use the module at all. It was simple for rebuild. All you need is a N-MOSFet like IRF540 or similar and a resistor for the gate. For the ventilation fan, you can also try to scale up the ventilation frame and flaps. Good luck for your projekt. Let me know, how it goes.
I don't know. I guess you'll need for 6 times more Volume, at least 6 times more Power. I think you can reuse the Arduino and the software. But to satisfy the power consumption, you need another concept for the heating and switching.
I'm starting to design my own project for a climate controlled filament dryer box that is a bit bigger than this but just starting to get into electronics like this and Arduinos so im not 100% sure on what im doing. I read some of your other replies and said the MOSFETs would be able to handle another 50w heater added onto the same module. If I added another MOSFET to run two 100w heaters and got a power supply rated to handle those do you think I'd be able to to follow everything else in the schematic just splice in another signal wire for an additional MOSFET?
Yes you can add an additional MosFet module. The module is specified up to 400W and 35A. But i wouldn' t trust this. Two modules should be find. Keep in mind, that you need much thicker cables for the MosFet. Also a power supply with 20A minimum.
geiles Projekt, ich würde das ganze aber gerne zum Trocknen von Nylon verwenden. Halten die Komponenten eine Temperatur von 90-100c aus? Ich würde zusätzlich die Box noch innen isolieren, um die wäre besser zu halten.
Nein ich denke das wird damit nicht funktionieren. Isoliert habe ich meine Box zwar auch bereits, aber das dient eher dazu, die Zieltemperatur schneller zu erreichen und besser zu halten. Der verwendete PTC macht bei ca. gut 70 Grad zu. In der Box erreiche ich mit einem PTC max. 58C. Mein erstes PTC Gehäuse aus PLA+ hatte ich damit aber schon geschmolzen. PETG kann da mehr ab. Womit das zweite PTC Ghäuse hält. Aber auch das würde dann bei noch höherer Temperatur auch irgendwann weich werden. Ob die Ikea Box das auf Dauer ab kann (90-100), wär ich mir auch nicht so sicher. Da müsste schon einiges umdimensioniert werden. Vor allem muss man dann aufpassen, dass man sich nicht einen potenziellen Brandherd baut.
Is it possible to use 3D printer heater (12V 50w) soldered to aluminium radiator (beefy one like 50x50x150)? This one provided in video is hardly accessible here in Poland(12V 50W)
Basically this should also work fine, as far as it can get hot enough. I think it wont fit into the housing. So you might have to design your own housing if necessary. But keep in mind, that the used PTC heater protect it self from overheating. So need to have an eye on this. Try it out. The MosFets can handle this as well.
@@Ocenazadania Not in any case. Ensure, that the DHT11 is always working. Since Version 0.48, the box stops heating/work if the sensor does not work. Try out and evaluate the heater. If you are using a 50/60 W power supply, as recommended, there should nothing bad happen. Kepp an eye on it and don't burn your house down :)
I don’t know much about electronics could please share some clear pictures wiring and how did you flash arduino board it will be great help I love you project it will be fun to build thankyou
Did you check the linked files (see video description or first, pinned comment) on printables? There you find all you need. Including wiring diagramm. For flashing you only need Arduino Ide and an usb cable.
what about if I take the fresh outside air from a separate box, filled with desiccant? I think that will be the best solution for this drying project. In this case the air that is getting into it must have lots of humility, so the process of drying is repeating from the beginning. If we take the air with no or minimal humidity then the process of drying will be more faster. what's your thought 🤔
I wouldn't do this. Because this don't take much effect to the drying process. Additional you will need a very large box. Keep in mind, the ventilation is done every 4 minutes for 20 seconds or longer. During the hours of drying, you will need a lot of air. But feel free to try it out.
I didn't check your code. is the fan start time interval of 4mins and time duration of fan running is fixed to 20secs? or that 4mins on and 20secs running is dependent on the humidity reading and controlled by arduino?
@@sretamnandi9256 The interval time and running time of the fan is fixed. But can be adjusted in the code. Since version 0.48 all parameters are move to an own class module. So you all parameters adjustable at one place in the code. The first ventilation of 20s starts, when the box reached the destination temperature. After that, every 4 minutes for 20s. But only when the destination temperature is reached. When the temperature has droped and the 4 minutes are over, the box first will heat to destination temp and then starts the ventilation.
Okeey dude, thanks. I am thinking of a dry box , but I think I will go for STC3028. for the fan settings let's find a suitable hardware to set the timings.
Thank you very much for this project, I also needed such a dryer and I started to do it, but I get a library error while loading the code. I don't understand where to download the "DryBoxControl.h", "WRKeyStateDef.h", "DryBoxDisplay.h" libraries, can you help?
These files are inside the DryBoxControl-v046.ZIP, which i accidentally uploaded. Now the zip is deleted and you find the files directly in the repository. You also need the NewliquidCrystal.ZIP. This file has to be add as extern library. See also hints on printables.com.
All part required are now printed, files up loaded to Arduino Uno with no errors (for test) a few electrical Items on order. Really looking forward to the build. Just the 800+ lines of code must of taken ages let alone the design of the parts. Thank you,
You are welcome! Yes, the code is not entirely trivial and took some time. But the device should also work professionally. If there are any problems, please feel free to ask
@@werners_corner Hi, I have now completed the build, I tested the box empty to start with and finally tried with 2 spools of filament. I am having a hard time understanding how the unit is supposed to work, and if I have built it to your specification. The Unit is set for 40 degrees and time 4 hours. Ambient temp 18 degrees. The unit takes 45+ minutes to get to 40 degrees, then the extract fan starts for the 20 seconds. At this point once the extract fan stops, my temperature starts to climb to about 41 degrees and then slowly falls to about 37 degrees, humidity dropping. It then starts to climb very slowly back up taking 20 minutes to do so. Is that how it should work? Second question... Extract fan. I can see that the trigger to the extract fan is the (in my case) 40 degree point, is it the case the next time it triggers is the next 40 degree point or is there another trigger (eg time or humidity?) I have tried to understand your code, but it is far beyond my limited coding skills. Third question... I did have to change the encoder pins DT and CLK, ( D6 and D7). I had completely finished my wiring before I realised, so I changed it within the code, is there any reason that you can see that it could be a problem? Thank you for designing this box and sharing it.
@@HigiStyx First to third question: it doesn't matter if you change the wires or simple change the pins (D6, D7) in the code. The result is the same. 45+ minutes to reach the destionation of 40 degrees seems to be a way to long. I checked this today morning. It took less then 10 minutes to reach 40 degrees. But my ambient temp is approx 22 degrees. I never tested it in such a "cool" environment. So it might be taken a littel bit longer. But not 45 minutes. Does your heater get enough power? How the box works: the ventilation starts the first time, when the destionation temp is reached. After this, the ventilation works every 4 minutes. But only if the destination temp is reach again in this time. A drop to 37 degrees seems to be ok in this ambient. My drop is about 38,6 degrees. You should check, if your heater is heating well. Does he get enough current from the power supply (at a littel bit more then 4A)? You can use the "Test" menu to drive the components manually. Enter the menu and chosse the value to set. HFan = fan for the heater, Heat = the heater self, AFan = ventilation fan. "Exit" stops all components. The temperature controll uses different ramps for different destionation temperatures. Try to set 41 degrees instead of 40. 41 will step to the next more powerfull ramp. You'll find the ramp table in function "void setHeatupRamp(....)" at line 643. You can change this values, if the test before solves your problem. Feel free to contact me by email (find it in the chanel description) or on printables for more support.
@@werners_corner Thank for your quick and informative reply. Your 10 minutes to 40 Degrees, was that an empty box? As my 45+ minutes is with two 18 degree ambient temperature spools of filament in the box. My first test with an empty box was considerably quicker. I have two spools in the dryer at the moment, from ambient temp 18C with the temp set to 41c instead of 40. To time it. ..UP DATE.. From 18C to 41c 2 spools of filament 51 minutes with the box wrapped in insulation on the top and sides. I had a quick check of the heater in the test menu, the heater with the heating fan on, it gets very hot. I am using a 12v 6 amp transformer brick that I had laying around my workshop for the dryer, however is a cheap Chinese one that I can't guarantee the output, It is getting very hot. I will buy a new quality one. The 12v cabling from the transformer to the mosfet bank is 1.5mm as that is what I had, so a bit over kill. I have not altered the code on line 643, at the moment. Do I enter values between the brackets on that line? or do I adjust values of the tables below line 643? hope fully it will be that cheap transformer. The ventilation now makes sense. thanks
@@werners_corner Hi again, Thanks for the info on how the code works I can now see how that bit works. Did you get your 10 minute time (22c to 40C) with and empty box? My 45+ minutes was with 2 spools of filament in the box. I will try this evening to dry another 2 spools of filament but using 41C instead, hopefully that should pull the time down. I am using a 12v 6A transformer brick, however it is a cheap Chinese one that I had laying around. I can’t guarantee it’s output and it gets very hot. I have ordered a new quality one today. My cables running to the mosfet bank is 1.5mm as that was the best sizing that I had to hand. I tried the test of the heater and heater fan this morning and it does get hot, I will have to look into that If the 41C and the new transformer doesn’t do it. You say I can change the values of line 643. Do I enter the values on that line in between the brackets? Or do I change the values within the table below?
Hello. I like your project and want to reproduce it, but I don't quite understand how the program works. Could you please tell me if it is possible to have an "Auto mode"? For example: set the maximum temperature to be reached using the menu and press Start. The heating element and the fan turn on if the humidity is 15% or higher (humidity can be set up in the settings or in the code, like a temperature). When the maximum temperature recorded in the memory is exceeded, the heating element turns off, but the fan still works. When a humidity value of 15% or less is reached, the fan and the heating element stop working. Also, I want to use an OLED bicolor (yellow + blue) screen but I do to understand how to modify this huge and highly professional code with a couple of self made libraries) Can you help with that?
Temperature controlling is a quite complex process and needs much evaluation time. To set a destionation humidity will not work, because can't ensure that the box will ever reach this humidity. So the box might run endless. For safety reasons i wouldn't do this. As you have seen, the software is quite complex and not written in a few days. The afford would be to much to refactor the software for this.
@@werners_corner WOW, I didn't expect a such quick reply. Many thanks. I understand that you're spent a hundred hours to write this code and even my colleague, who is a programmer was impressed about your code and said that it was written by a PRO guy) Ok, lets forget about humidity control, but what about OLED display? Is there any chance to implement this upgrade?
@@colinmcrae007 I think you mean a graphical OLED display. At first step i thought about this. But i discard this becaus the Nano has a limit of 2K storage for variables. The current software consumes a bit about 1000 bytes for parameter variables. To use an OLED a additional buffer of 980 bytes is necessary. This would blow up the memory for variables. Second reason: the OLED also uses I2C. The graphical display would highly increase the traffic on the I2C, which will lead in timing issues for the temperature control. Someone has tried a 4x20 character LCD instead 2x16 and bumped into timing issues. It took to much time to transfer the data for the 4x20 over the I2C. I think for this, there would be a more powerfull controler than teh Nano necessary.
@@colinmcrae007 Regarding the specs, they should easy handle this. Might be they are even a bit oversized, but fine. I didn't used an ESP32 until now. But i guess the software will be totaly different and results in a new software. I think a Nano Every should also have enough memory. But the timing has to be evaluated and a refactoring at this point would be necessary.
I’m done now when I plug power moving rotary switch screen flashing what I’m doing wrong please help any can send me email if I can send video please ?
I guess you have a mistake in your wiring. Check all conections, if they are properly done. I think you have overseen one ore more connection. Software uploaded to Arduino? Recommended steps: - Start with software versiion 0.48 - github.com/werner-rh/drybox-control/tree/v0.48 - disconnect fans and heater and focus on display and rotary encoder. Does the power up message and main menu appear after power up (without touching the encoder) ?
@@xeondxb There is no link. You can send to me by mail (see chanel description for the addres). I gues you havn't connected the i2c bus correctly. Check the wiring. Software is uploaded to Arduino?
Nice ! I bought a 2nd hand food dehydrator. Wanting to fix a rattling noise issue, I opened it, and I was quite disappointed at the very crude temperature control (heater goes only on/off at a predetermined frequency, no closed loop regulation). So while starting to look at DIY solutions, your solution is simple, safe, easy to maintain and accurate enough for the purpose.
Of course safety first! 12V low voltage power supply (Short circuit proof) and the ptc heater can't be over heated. About 50€ for the material isn't that much. You can't buy a dryer with this features for the price. And if you are a littel bit familar with Arduino coding, you can add the features you like.
1. Install Arduino IDE 2. Download Code 3. Open code in IDe 4. Connect Arduino Nano with usb 5. In IDE select: Tools -> Boards -> Arduino AVR Boards -> Arduino Nano 6. In IDE select: Tools -> Ports -> the com port where Arduino appears 7. In IDE select: Tools -> Processor -> ATmega328p. If you have a china clone with ch340 select ATmega328p old bootloader 8. Compile and upload the code
thank you for sharing this project. I got some warnings while compiling, below are the warning messages : D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino: In function 'void loop()': D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino:267:19: warning: invalid conversion from 'volatile uint8_t* {aka volatile unsigned char*}' to 'uint8_t* {aka unsigned char*}' [-fpermissive] CheckKeyState(&encoderBUTTON_State, EncSwitch); ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ In file included from D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino:63:0: sketch\WRKeyStateDef.h:13:9: note: initializing argument 1 of 'uint8_t CheckKeyState(uint8_t*, uint8_t)' uint8_t CheckKeyState(uint8_t * KeyState, uint8_t KeyPin); can you give me some advice, thank you
The compiler seems to be a little bit "stupid" here. The types are the same. You can delete the modifier "volatile" in line 97 of DryBoxControl.ino to get off this warning. Or simple ignore it.
Downloads
Link Stl files: www.printables.com/de/model/724722-heated-and-ventilated-filament-dry-box
GitHub: github.com/werner-rh/drybox-control
Can you please add all the necessary hardware list on Printables?
The Partlist (Partlist-Info-Heated-DryBox.txt) with all parts and links to abtain the parts, is allready stored on printables beside the STL files. The text file also contains some additional information. Please check this.@@grimwaltzman
This is the best DIY Filament Dryer I have ever seen so far. Gratz!
Very nice project
Sehr tolle Idee und klasse präsentiert 🙏🏻👍🏻
Great video! I have been searching for a diy box like this for about 6 months. I have already invested in some components to build something similar using a larger box for 4 spools. Some of those components will have to be replaced because I like the vent feature you incorporated using the Nano and lcd display. Even in my Sovol dryer I noticed I have to vent the humidity out when drying for it to be effective. Trying to follow the bread board schematic was a bit of a challenge for me. It showed a 35v 10um cap that wasn't in the video. In researching the DHT11 I found it to spec 0C-50C and 20%-90% humidity range. The data sheet also explained that the cap and resistor are incorporated in the module but would have to be added to a stand alone sensor. I then came across a DHT22 sensor. I am incorporating this sensor instead. it's range is -40C to 80C and 0% to 100% humidity, a bit more accurate and uses the same voltage as in your circuit but can handle up to 6 volts. I like to get my filament to under 15% humidity and I use a lot of ABS. ABS, Nylon and such have a drying temperature of 75 -80C. The schematic could be a little more detailed for the 5v side of things but it gets me to where I want to go. THANK You for awesome effort and direction.
The electronic circuit is quite simple from my view and many people are using this Fritzing diagrams. So i thought it would be the best way. Yes i forgot to mention the 10um cap in the video. Room for two spools was enough for me and i wanted the Ikea365 box because the box is easy to get in almost each country. To be honest, the heater solution was my second try. The first one fails with a bad result. The second works fine. For a bigger box you need an additional heater unit. The MosFets will be able to handle both.
I know the DHT11 is not the best choice. But it is cheap and is completely sufficient for control. Decisive for the best result is the ventilation at intervals. Accurate temperature is not that importent. The DHT22 is indeed the better choice. However, it also costs three times as much as the DHT11. With the concept of this box it is possible to get the humidity below 10%. In the test i didn't reach this value due to the time limit of 1hour.
The DHT11 generally works fine. I am building 3 boxes to store and print out of. Amazon has 5 DHT11s for $8.99 and 3 DHT22s for $10.79. Those are the modules and not the just the sensors. So they cost twice as much but for myself worth it for the added monitoring/accuracy range. I'm also using 2 24v 30w polyimide heaters on an aluminum plate with a 40x20 fan. They blow more cfms and I can make it fit better in the ezystorage 18L box I'm using (HomeDepot in the US). I'm also using 2 intakes and exhausts on each box. These items I already had and the LM7805 will also work with the 24v supply. @@werners_corner
@@nickvee9468Sounds also interesting. Did you check out, if the two heater have enought power to heat up this big box? I am using 50W for a 10L box. Shure, the 7805 will work fine. I am not shure, if you realy need two intakes and exhausts. My small 40x10 fans are not driven at full power. There is still reserve left. However, the fun is to research and try out, which solution will work fine.
I planed on sticking aluminum reflective insulation inside the box which should keep the heat in and any condensation from forming between the box walls and insulation. As far as the ventilation. I'm not that thrilled about cutting a lot of holes in an air tight container so I'm still thinking about that aspect. I was looking at using a silicone disk/diaphragm type of valve. Like the valve used on vacuum bags. I think it's more air tight than the louvered design. The part I am going to have the most trouble with is sketching the arduino. I have forgotten/lost a lot in 15 years since I last worked with them and the "accidents" @@werners_corner
@@nickvee9468I also thought about an insulation inside the box. But for the i skiped this. My box isn't that big. Therefore it is not so necessary.
I doubt, that the fan is able to open such kind of valves. That's reason, i designed and printed the in- and outtake with this flaps. I didn't plan to store the filament for longer time in this box. In this way, the box is not 100% air tight. To solve this problem for long time storage, i thought about a cap for covering the intake and outtake. The small remaining leak will no longer have a significant impact. Also you can add a little box with siicat gel while the box is powerd up.
Definitely good.
I do have the same boxes. But I have no air from outside but silica gel. This offers me the storage function as well.
Heated with silica gel? This will also work fine. But you have to change the silica from time to time. I have a bunch of filament rolls. So i prefer to use the small boxes (only with silica) for storage and printing. I use the heated box only for intensive drying.
Funny, I was working on the EXACT same thing and just finished most of it :)
I lost my moisture sensor tho (I had to look hard to find one that would work up to 85c, and the datasheet was Chinese...) so I manually open the lid every now and then to let the steam out instead of using one way valves and a fan.
I am not good at PCB design but I can share the PCB with you and my code if you want :)
Thank you. But i think there is no need for a pcb for this project. The used prototyping pcb is just for for providing proper connectors to wireing everything. May be someone else is interested. So feel free to share a link here or on printables.
Does this type of ptc heater used in the video has polarity , or any wire could be connected to either positive or negative?
It's a PTC resistor and it don't have a polarity. You can connect any wire to positiv or negativ.
Can I used the 12V 100W instead of 12V 50W PTC? Is there any disadvantage of using the 100W version. Please do let me know waiting for your reply.
Generally, this should work. Due to the lower resistance, a stronger power supply will be required. Try it out. I haven't tried a 100W PTC myself yet. The parameters for the control may need to be adjusted.
@@werners_corner Thanks will try it out
@@rsmgaming4384 Great. Let me know, if it works. Also if you need further help.
nice job and over all good video nicely detailed. I would definitely get rid of the background music (very ditracting and annoying at times)
hi,I am using as a guide your project,making use of your stl file converted to model file, and build another model as need.I cannot find an 10.4 l ikea box, because in my country the main ikea doesnt sell, so i modeling and building an plexiglass box.Also the ptc heater is another model and the stl file doesnt fit.The same as the extraction fan, which mine is an 5015, which i had as an leftover from building the printer.On remark i have to make.At least on the mosfet used to power the heater try to get out of the box, because he needs cooling a lot.You rik overheating and breaking and in this case kiling the arduino.Thanks for the ideea.
Sounds interesting. But for designed 50/60 Watt, the MOSFet don't get hot. Up to 100W it also shouldn't be a problem without cooling. The MOSFet modules are specified with 35A/400W. But i doubt that they can handle this. You can also take a look for another MOSFet. You don't have to use the module at all. It was simple for rebuild. All you need is a N-MOSFet like IRF540 or similar and a resistor for the gate.
For the ventilation fan, you can also try to scale up the ventilation frame and flaps. Good luck for your projekt. Let me know, how it goes.
Aside from just the size, what would need to change to build this same system for 12 1kg filament spools?
I don't know. I guess you'll need for 6 times more Volume, at least 6 times more Power. I think you can reuse the Arduino and the software. But to satisfy the power consumption, you need another concept for the heating and switching.
@@werners_corner Perhaps multiple reptile heaters? What do you mean by switching by the way?
@@Luka1180 The used MOSFet wouldn't be able the amount of power. You will need multiple MOSFets. Maybe one for each heater.
I'm starting to design my own project for a climate controlled filament dryer box that is a bit bigger than this but just starting to get into electronics like this and Arduinos so im not 100% sure on what im doing. I read some of your other replies and said the MOSFETs would be able to handle another 50w heater added onto the same module. If I added another MOSFET to run two 100w heaters and got a power supply rated to handle those do you think I'd be able to to follow everything else in the schematic just splice in another signal wire for an additional MOSFET?
Yes you can add an additional MosFet module. The module is specified up to 400W and 35A. But i wouldn' t trust this. Two modules should be find. Keep in mind, that you need much thicker cables for the MosFet. Also a power supply with 20A minimum.
geiles Projekt, ich würde das ganze aber gerne zum Trocknen von Nylon verwenden. Halten die Komponenten eine Temperatur von 90-100c aus? Ich würde zusätzlich die Box noch innen isolieren, um die wäre besser zu halten.
Nein ich denke das wird damit nicht funktionieren. Isoliert habe ich meine Box zwar auch bereits, aber das dient eher dazu, die Zieltemperatur schneller zu erreichen und besser zu halten.
Der verwendete PTC macht bei ca. gut 70 Grad zu. In der Box erreiche ich mit einem PTC max. 58C. Mein erstes PTC Gehäuse aus PLA+ hatte ich damit aber schon geschmolzen. PETG kann da mehr ab. Womit das zweite PTC Ghäuse hält. Aber auch das würde dann bei noch höherer Temperatur auch irgendwann weich werden. Ob die Ikea Box das auf Dauer ab kann (90-100), wär ich mir auch nicht so sicher.
Da müsste schon einiges umdimensioniert werden. Vor allem muss man dann aufpassen, dass man sich nicht einen potenziellen Brandherd baut.
Is it possible to use 3D printer heater (12V 50w) soldered to aluminium radiator (beefy one like 50x50x150)? This one provided in video is hardly accessible here in Poland(12V 50W)
Basically this should also work fine, as far as it can get hot enough. I think it wont fit into the housing. So you might have to design your own housing if necessary. But keep in mind, that the used PTC heater protect it self from overheating. So need to have an eye on this. Try it out. The MosFets can handle this as well.
@@werners_corner Thanks for advice. Maybe implement passive thermal protection?
@@Ocenazadania Not in any case. Ensure, that the DHT11 is always working. Since Version 0.48, the box stops heating/work if the sensor does not work. Try out and evaluate the heater. If you are using a 50/60 W power supply, as recommended, there should nothing bad happen. Kepp an eye on it and don't burn your house down :)
I don’t know much about electronics could please share some clear pictures wiring and how did you flash arduino board it will be great help I love you project it will be fun to build thankyou
Did you check the linked files (see video description or first, pinned comment) on printables? There you find all you need. Including wiring diagramm. For flashing you only need Arduino Ide and an usb cable.
Got it thank you 🎉
what about if I take the fresh outside air from a separate box, filled with desiccant? I think that will be the best solution for this drying project. In this case the air that is getting into it must have lots of humility, so the process of drying is repeating from the beginning. If we take the air with no or minimal humidity then the process of drying will be more faster.
what's your thought 🤔
I wouldn't do this. Because this don't take much effect to the drying process. Additional you will need a very large box. Keep in mind, the ventilation is done every 4 minutes for 20 seconds or longer. During the hours of drying, you will need a lot of air. But feel free to try it out.
I didn't check your code. is the fan start time interval of 4mins and time duration of fan running is fixed to 20secs?
or that 4mins on and 20secs running is dependent on the humidity reading and controlled by arduino?
@@sretamnandi9256 The interval time and running time of the fan is fixed. But can be adjusted in the code. Since version 0.48 all parameters are move to an own class module. So you all parameters adjustable at one place in the code. The first ventilation of 20s starts, when the box reached the destination temperature. After that, every 4 minutes for 20s. But only when the destination temperature is reached. When the temperature has droped and the 4 minutes are over, the box first will heat to destination temp and then starts the ventilation.
Okeey dude, thanks. I am thinking of a dry box , but I think I will go for STC3028. for the fan settings let's find a suitable hardware to set the timings.
Thank you very much for this project, I also needed such a dryer and I started to do it, but I get a library error while loading the code. I don't understand where to download the "DryBoxControl.h", "WRKeyStateDef.h", "DryBoxDisplay.h" libraries, can you help?
These files are inside the DryBoxControl-v046.ZIP, which i accidentally uploaded. Now the zip is deleted and you find the files directly in the repository. You also need the NewliquidCrystal.ZIP. This file has to be add as extern library. See also hints on printables.com.
nice project sir
Thank you
Can I convert my 120L box to a dry box by adding more PTC heaters and fans?
The volume of your box is 12 times bigger then my box. So the amount of heaters and power would be at least 12 times higher.
@werners_corner if i get a more powerful heater?
@@PilavakisGiannis Shure you can try it. I guess you need at least 600W for heating.
All part required are now printed, files up loaded to Arduino Uno with no errors (for test) a few electrical Items on order. Really looking forward to the build. Just the 800+ lines of code must of taken ages let alone the design of the parts. Thank you,
You are welcome!
Yes, the code is not entirely trivial and took some time. But the device should also work professionally. If there are any problems, please feel free to ask
@@werners_corner Hi, I have now completed the build, I tested the box empty to start with and finally tried with 2 spools of filament. I am having a hard time understanding how the unit is supposed to work, and if I have built it to your specification.
The Unit is set for 40 degrees and time 4 hours. Ambient temp 18 degrees. The unit takes 45+ minutes to get to 40 degrees, then the extract fan starts for the 20 seconds. At this point once the extract fan stops, my temperature starts to climb to about 41 degrees and then slowly falls to about 37 degrees, humidity dropping. It then starts to climb very slowly back up taking 20 minutes to do so. Is that how it should work?
Second question... Extract fan. I can see that the trigger to the extract fan is the (in my case) 40 degree point, is it the case the next time it triggers is the next 40 degree point or is there another trigger (eg time or humidity?)
I have tried to understand your code, but it is far beyond my limited coding skills.
Third question... I did have to change the encoder pins DT and CLK, ( D6 and D7). I had completely finished my wiring before I realised, so I changed it within the code, is there any reason that you can see that it could be a problem? Thank you for designing this box and sharing it.
@@HigiStyx First to third question: it doesn't matter if you change the wires or simple change the pins (D6, D7) in the code. The result is the same.
45+ minutes to reach the destionation of 40 degrees seems to be a way to long. I checked this today morning. It took less then 10 minutes to reach 40 degrees. But my ambient temp is approx 22 degrees. I never tested it in such a "cool" environment. So it might be taken a littel bit longer. But not 45 minutes. Does your heater get enough power?
How the box works: the ventilation starts the first time, when the destionation temp is reached. After this, the ventilation works every 4 minutes. But only if the destination temp is reach again in this time.
A drop to 37 degrees seems to be ok in this ambient. My drop is about 38,6 degrees.
You should check, if your heater is heating well. Does he get enough current from the power supply (at a littel bit more then 4A)?
You can use the "Test" menu to drive the components manually. Enter the menu and chosse the value to set. HFan = fan for the heater, Heat = the heater self, AFan = ventilation fan. "Exit" stops all components.
The temperature controll uses different ramps for different destionation temperatures. Try to set 41 degrees instead of 40. 41 will step to the next more powerfull ramp. You'll find the ramp table in function "void setHeatupRamp(....)" at line 643. You can change this values, if the test before solves your problem.
Feel free to contact me by email (find it in the chanel description) or on printables for more support.
@@werners_corner Thank for your quick and informative reply. Your 10 minutes to 40 Degrees, was that an empty box? As my 45+ minutes is with two 18 degree ambient temperature spools of filament in the box. My first test with an empty box was considerably quicker. I have two spools in the dryer at the moment, from ambient temp 18C with the temp set to 41c instead of 40. To time it.
..UP DATE.. From 18C to 41c 2 spools of filament 51 minutes with the box wrapped in insulation on the top and sides.
I had a quick check of the heater in the test menu, the heater with the heating fan on, it gets very hot.
I am using a 12v 6 amp transformer brick that I had laying around my workshop for the dryer, however is a cheap Chinese one that I can't guarantee the output, It is getting very hot. I will buy a new quality one. The 12v cabling from the transformer to the mosfet bank is 1.5mm as that is what I had, so a bit over kill.
I have not altered the code on line 643, at the moment. Do I enter values between the brackets on that line? or do I adjust values of the tables below line 643?
hope fully it will be that cheap transformer.
The ventilation now makes sense. thanks
@@werners_corner Hi again, Thanks for the info on how the code works I can now see how that bit works.
Did you get your 10 minute time (22c to 40C) with and empty box?
My 45+ minutes was with 2 spools of filament in the box.
I will try this evening to dry another 2 spools of filament but using 41C instead, hopefully that should pull the time down.
I am using a 12v 6A transformer brick, however it is a cheap Chinese one that I had laying around. I can’t guarantee it’s output and it gets very hot. I have ordered a new quality one today. My cables running to the mosfet bank is 1.5mm as that was the best sizing that I had to hand.
I tried the test of the heater and heater fan this morning and it does get hot, I will have to look into that If the 41C and the new transformer doesn’t do it.
You say I can change the values of line 643. Do I enter the values on that line in between the brackets? Or do I change the values within the table below?
Hello. I like your project and want to reproduce it, but I don't quite understand how the program works. Could you please tell me if it is possible to have an "Auto mode"? For example: set the maximum temperature to be reached using the menu and press Start. The heating element and the fan turn on if the humidity is 15% or higher (humidity can be set up in the settings or in the code, like a temperature). When the maximum temperature recorded in the memory is exceeded, the heating element turns off, but the fan still works. When a humidity value of 15% or less is reached, the fan and the heating element stop working. Also, I want to use an OLED bicolor (yellow + blue) screen but I do to understand how to modify this huge and highly professional code with a couple of self made libraries) Can you help with that?
Temperature controlling is a quite complex process and needs much evaluation time. To set a destionation humidity will not work, because can't ensure that the box will ever reach this humidity. So the box might run endless. For safety reasons i wouldn't do this. As you have seen, the software is quite complex and not written in a few days. The afford would be to much to refactor the software for this.
@@werners_corner WOW, I didn't expect a such quick reply. Many thanks. I understand that you're spent a hundred hours to write this code and even my colleague, who is a programmer was impressed about your code and said that it was written by a PRO guy) Ok, lets forget about humidity control, but what about OLED display? Is there any chance to implement this upgrade?
@@colinmcrae007 I think you mean a graphical OLED display. At first step i thought about this. But i discard this becaus the Nano has a limit of 2K storage for variables. The current software consumes a bit about 1000 bytes for parameter variables. To use an OLED a additional buffer of 980 bytes is necessary. This would blow up the memory for variables. Second reason: the OLED also uses I2C. The graphical display would highly increase the traffic on the I2C, which will lead in timing issues for the temperature control. Someone has tried a 4x20 character LCD instead 2x16 and bumped into timing issues. It took to much time to transfer the data for the 4x20 over the I2C. I think for this, there would be a more powerfull controler than teh Nano necessary.
@@werners_cornerOh, now I understand. What about ESP8266 NodeMCU or ESP32? Do they meet the requirements and can handle your project?
@@colinmcrae007 Regarding the specs, they should easy handle this. Might be they are even a bit oversized, but fine. I didn't used an ESP32 until now. But i guess the software will be totaly different and results in a new software.
I think a Nano Every should also have enough memory. But the timing has to be evaluated and a refactoring at this point would be necessary.
how to flash Arduino?
What was total price?
About 50 euros. Maybe a few Euros more.
great 👍
I’m done now when I plug power moving rotary switch screen flashing what I’m doing wrong please help any can send me email if I can send video please ?
I guess you have a mistake in your wiring. Check all conections, if they are properly done. I think you have overseen one ore more connection. Software uploaded to Arduino?
Recommended steps:
- Start with software versiion 0.48 - github.com/werner-rh/drybox-control/tree/v0.48
- disconnect fans and heater and focus on display and rotary encoder.
Does the power up message and main menu appear after power up (without touching the encoder) ?
No nothing is coming on display just light you can check pictures on given link
@@xeondxb There is no link. You can send to me by mail (see chanel description for the addres). I gues you havn't connected the i2c bus correctly. Check the wiring. Software is uploaded to Arduino?
Please check your 3d website what link you shared in description I have post comments I can not find email description of this website
I can not share link in comments UA-cam deleting it self
Nice ! I bought a 2nd hand food dehydrator. Wanting to fix a rattling noise issue, I opened it, and I was quite disappointed at the very crude temperature control (heater goes only on/off at a predetermined frequency, no closed loop regulation). So while starting to look at DIY solutions, your solution is simple, safe, easy to maintain and accurate enough for the purpose.
Of course safety first! 12V low voltage power supply (Short circuit proof) and the ptc heater can't be over heated. About 50€ for the material isn't that much. You can't buy a dryer with this features for the price. And if you are a littel bit familar with Arduino coding, you can add the features you like.
how to upload code in ardiuno nano
1. Install Arduino IDE
2. Download Code
3. Open code in IDe
4. Connect Arduino Nano with usb
5. In IDE select: Tools -> Boards -> Arduino AVR Boards -> Arduino Nano
6. In IDE select: Tools -> Ports -> the com port where Arduino appears
7. In IDE select: Tools -> Processor -> ATmega328p. If you have a china clone with ch340 select ATmega328p old bootloader
8. Compile and upload the code
thank you for sharing this project. I got some warnings while compiling, below are the warning messages :
D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino: In function 'void loop()':
D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino:267:19: warning: invalid conversion from 'volatile uint8_t* {aka volatile unsigned char*}' to 'uint8_t* {aka unsigned char*}' [-fpermissive]
CheckKeyState(&encoderBUTTON_State, EncSwitch);
^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In file included from D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino:63:0:
sketch\WRKeyStateDef.h:13:9: note: initializing argument 1 of 'uint8_t CheckKeyState(uint8_t*, uint8_t)'
uint8_t CheckKeyState(uint8_t * KeyState, uint8_t KeyPin);
can you give me some advice, thank you
The compiler seems to be a little bit "stupid" here. The types are the same. You can delete the modifier "volatile" in line 97 of DryBoxControl.ino to get off this warning. Or simple ignore it.