I may be 76 now, but I started in my backyard in the 60's interested in this automotive fab-work. Was poor in Fairfield, Ill, but bowered dad's tools, burned-up all his welding gas 48 Mercury Club-Coupe (1st-project). Later got in electronics, made a career / family, wife passed in 2016, now I want to fab some, before I get too-dam-old. BTW, I one of your man you tube fans, love it!
Bravo! I'm a lowrider hydraulic guy and the one thing that is a little disappointing to me about our scene is people don't innovate with the hydraulics enough. I love the fresh perspective and you take on a different way to fabricate a hydraulic suspension.
as a guy whos just starting to get into welding and fabrication, watching you make that little metal brake blew my mind. i was watching the parts come together thinking how tf is that gonna bend metal, and then BAM bent. perfect. wow man. youre one of my biggest inspirations going in to fabrication
The craftmanship on this thing is the one of the best displays ive seen anyone be capable of from nothing more than a home garage or workshop!!! Great work man looks sexy!!
I am following your vids, and listen closely to the creative processes that just flow out that mind. If i lived in the same local as you i would take you high tech 3D design and exotic Carbon-Fiber, Zylon, Kevlar, and a slew of other fab conciderations for just the free opportunity to create. Mine is a long exposure to composites, as well as 37yrs. steel plate fitter/CNC burner. Over the years i have seen first hand guys that do any print to any steel fab(some small to 50tons). I have seen from scratch fitters, the very best period, and the more i see your vids the more inclined i am to believe your top notch from scratch!! Keep up the good work.
Absolutely ground breaking idea if it's your idea, congrats on the vision and bringing it to the world. People need to have manners and think of what was created here. The best of both worlds in a simple idea. The pros should give advice if they see any danger in it. Give credit where credits due, if your an enthusiast/builder or Engineer you would appreciate and keep this idea in your mind for use or sharing. This is sick and just remember that triangles are strength if in doubt about building strength into a part or section. Thanks for the show brother. Can't wait to watch the testing video/s :-)
in the aircraft biz we call those Lightening holes, they save a lot of weight and increase the rigidity and strength of the component. plus they look bad ass. i find myself looking for a new bibster episode every morning, keep up the sick FAB work, love it.
essentially what the rear cantilever does, is allow you to raise and lower the car by raising and lowering, in principle, the top of the shock tower. Its a unique take on the standard mini-truck go-to of cantilevered bags. kudos man, over-engineered is best engineered!
I like the concept, I would have done reverse on the ram so when the ram is lowered all the way the vehicle is at ride height. That way if you broke a line or something it would be drivable. Also the cantilever pin should probably be much larger and have a bearing perhaps.
I had an air suspension idea, basically the same as yours, but with bags instead of hydraulics. Never seen a cantilever setup like this before. Cool stuff!
Looks cool AF Kyle! Love the hydraulic idea...Will look sick on the front end!!! I think it will the rear stability will work just fine for its intended use....We use this setup with much longer bars plus double the vehicle weight...off road...Then drive on the street home with not a problem. You should be totally solid
The right air ride components would ride better than your current QA1 coil over shock. With that said, your cantilever setup will have a good visual impact. And more importantly, it is your project so do what you like! I enjoy watching your vids, we highlight them on the site from time to time. Keep it up.
yeah I would agree...not really after ride quality on this build....more about changing things up a bit. The next c10 build I do will for sure have air
Great progress, That arm looks plenty strong, my only suggestion would be to add a doubler where the center pivot point is going to be, I know you have the tube going through but a doubler will help spread the stress over a larger area.
You sly dog!!!! Smart a.f. using the best of both worlds. I gotcha. This is Utah William. If you have any side load issues the 03 Crown Vic has a watts link set up that is definetly worth a look. Us fabricators at Petersen's watch you alot and the Bibster rocks brother keep it up.
The Fab Forums. That's awesome to hear. Very excited to see what you do with the front. I hope that the Bibster will pave the way to a whole new hot rod era. Show people you don't have to buy a freakin prius.
Love what you are doing here. Can hardly wait to see the finished project. Just a thought on your cantilever links: I would weld some doubler slugs to the ends where the bolts go through for the shocks and the hydraulic cylinders. The bearing stress will be very high in these areas, and will Brinell the holes. A 1/4” thick washer welded to either side will reduce the stress to 1/3 what it currently is. As I said, just a thought. Keep up the awesome work!!
Very cool. Love the look, no messy tube structure coming out for the coilover mounts. I think the trianglated four link setup will be fine, especially with all rubber bushings eliminated. But what do I know, I am one class short of a motorsports engineering technology degree. Keep it up, waiting to see the front suspension.
Super cool Kyle!! Looking forward to seeing the Bibbster cruisin' the streets. I just wish I knew how to weld. My project is a bit different than yours, but still requires welding. I guess I'll have to get a mobile welder to come out and tackle the job.
Hey Kyle. I'm not asking a lot of questions, just watching and enjoying the build. I listen with headphones and the tunes you've selected are rockin'. Absolutely lovin' these edits, man! Just like the music, The Bibbster is all metal and kick-ass! Cheers, brother!
Been following this since you started the Bibster - loving it! Great job Kyle! I see how your stuff just "magically" lines up, like the fact that the cage down tubes just happen to be the same width as the LCAs. You must have more than just ideas in your head - you must have tons of dimensions and calculations in a notebook somewhere with drawings and sketches. That would be a good "tool" video - the design notebook. Looking forward to the meetup in Austin Kyle!
I just stumbled onto this video, and it looks like it's a few months old. I looked through the comments. The triangulated 4-link is what the off-road builds use, no issue going without panhard bar. I was kinda surprised no one asked about your geometry for your anti-squat and whether or not you did the calculations for that.
The Fab Forums , I was asking about anti-sqwat. That is going to be a calculation based on the length and angles of the links in relation between the upper and lower. Depending on the setup, could cause the rear to either lift or squat under acceleration. Drag cars will change their link locations depending on track conditions for better traction or better launch from what I understand.
Great build. Very creative. Canti set up without panhard will work fine. Had several triangulated 4 links before. They don’t move sideways! Maybe put a sway bar in it.
Gday from West Australia. I have been watching comments on cantilever idea. More importantly I have been listening to you coz it's your hot rod build 😊 I like what I hear and see😊 I was classically trained in Automotive Engineering 😊 I am the 3rd generation of My Creative Craft shall we say😊 My hat comes off to you in regards to you vision, creativity, craftmanship, etc. 2 Thumbs up from me😊 Awaiting in anticipation of the next instalment you be doing the work son😊
Your whole settup looks very nice. Great quality and your videos have always been impressive. The only thing I would beef up is the pivot point for the cantilever, cause it will be taking the full load of the suspension to frame stress.
Its actually over kill for what it needs to do. It only needs to support the weight of the rear section of the car which might be 500lbs on each side max.
Just sub'd to your channel! Felliw Fab-Head here! I'm pretty impressed with your ideas and passion for the cause! Keep turning and burning Brother! Dimple dies are the shizzy.
Who is complaining about side to side movement? If they're skeered of a triangulated 4 link, they can hope back in their Prius and complain to their wife about how their slow, bad handling car's feeling got hurt before they could make it to their safe space. I say that because there's no way they'll make it down the trail to address me with complaints, and they cant drive straight enough to address Kyle either. Panhard Panseys! Love the design Kyle! Keep doing your thing!
Great work and job. One question. On your pivot hole. I did see a spacer in between the plates. The spacer could have a bearing in it. Great job never stop building.
If you're going with hydraulic fluid I suggest using pilot operated check valves so when you get to ride height there is no way it will drift down on you. Also flow control valves should do the trick for slowing it down 👍
If you wind up having trouble with side to side movement of the rearend housing, you can fully eliminate your problem by fabbing up a watts link for it. If you do the watts link, here is a piece of advice. You definitely dont want to attach the center section to the differential cover. It will put unwanted stress on the cover and can possibly some of the internals. Its trouble you dont want.
Good stuff dude! Great how you describe your thought process on the build. And I love the uniqueness of this build. I don't think side movement will be an issue. Works just fine for the rockcrawlers. Make sure you put the ground clamp on the links when you weld on them on the chassis. You might be and I didn't see it. But if you didn't then the current has to go through the heims.
good job love the videos next time you gota do bushings like that fab a piece of pipe with a cap and hole in the end use some allthread and a quick homade bushing puller press works wonders and another reason to fab a tool
This is exactly what I had on the rear of my mini truck back in the 90s. You definitely make it look a lot better than what I had. I’m digging this build totally. Definitely slow her down in the travel motion or you will be replacing a lot of mounting points. I’m pretty confident that you will have no side to side tracking issues with the triangulated set up. Triangles are very strong if I can remember correctly😂. This set up usually binds pretty bad at the joints but you relieved that with all of the Hiem ends.
I like the cantilever idea for the raising and lowering. I assume it will be all heim joints or spherical bushings (i.e. no rubber bushings) in that to avoid adding extra play?
If you're concerned about lateral rear axle location, might I suggest a Watt linkage instead of a Panhard [track] bar? That would give you more flexible vertical movement, yet keep the axle centred in the car as it goes up and down. It's a road racing suspension as opposed to a circle track one.
those rubber bushings are to aid in stoppin the rearend housing from getting cracked wen in a stress position ,to ease impact against the rear end housing
Loving the build. I am not crazy about the bracket that is bolted to the upper link arms, then bolted to axle brackets. It would look a lot more clean to cut off the factory brackets on the axle and build a truss, then weld tabs onto the truss for the heim joints.
now i noticed at 20:48 that you did not position the shock directly above the axle but behind it. would this put more stress on the frame towards the middle of the chassis with the 4 link set up?
@the fab forum, just catching up on this build, so rad. Question regarding the hydraulic cantilevered rear. By extending the ram, I understand that it would push on the spindle and raise the car. However, wouldn't some of the extension of that ram translate into compressing the coilover on the other side of the lever and actually lower the car? But perhaps the forces from scenario A are so much greater than scenario B that its negligible?
Very cool adjustability with the cantilevered coil-overs. If you don't mind, I'd like to offer a suggestion on their fabrication. Almost all of the load will be seen along the top (compression) and on the bottom. (tension) If you think of an I-beam, any holes or notches are strictly avoided on the flanges, as they do the same thing. All of your lightening should be in the web. (on your sides where you have the big holes which are fine) Rather than have the three edge pieces be short, they should wrap all the way around the whole cantilever arm so that there are no places where the primary load is transferred back into the side plates. Any where that can happen will be a potential failure point. I other words, fully boxed. Good luck.
I've been able to follow your vision right along. Your descriptions have been very close to what you intend. Just one suggestion I would have, not the build as such, would be to replace the jack on the press with an air over hydraulic. I have the same press. Just picked up a jack from HF. Added a foot pedal. What a difference. So much easier. I can still fine tune with the handle but have both hands free to hold whatever I'm working on. Just a thought.
Super simple mod and not expensive, especially on sale. I did the same with my engine hoist except for a hand control. Great project, amazing detail and forethought.
I had something of the same idea for the cantilever arms but on a much bigger scale with big rig axle and a 671 detroit. Not a true hot rod or rat rod, just my crazy vehicle that I have dreamed up and going to build as soon as I finish getting the final parts to start building it. Everybody has there own idea of what looks good and should not let people that disagree with what they think is cool stop them from building it. Opinions are like a$$holes everybody has one and some are $hitter than others. Keep doing you. Thanks for the videos and info.
I REALLY like this project, this is good stuff ! Just one constructive observation....I would be slightly concerned about the shear strength of the bolt mounting points on those cantilever arms. For myself, I would beef them up just a little bit....Looking forward to seeing more !
I was referring to the central pivot point of the cantilever arm, where the bolt passes through it....I was thinking about the thickness of the metal. I may be underestimating it`s strength....no offense meant :-)
With the cantilever I would make a piece that ran the length of the bottom. The reason is the strength of a triangle comes from the tensile strength of the of the lower member and the distance between the upper and the lower faces. Think of it like this an I beam is skinny in the middle which is the sides of your triangle, and thick one the top and bottom. It would have to stretch the lower part of the beam to fail and the web is just meant to keep it strait and the upper and lower flanges parallel.
The Fab Forums I’m not trying to insult you in any way. I go to school for engineering, and I noticed that the piece on the bottom of your cantilever doesn’t run from the shock mounting point it the body mounting point. My only concern is that steel is easy to bend sideways but hard to stretch and the tabs at the ends are un-triangulated. If the rear end articulated to much you may push those tabs sideways.
I see the spring touching the axel mount in the future, when you drop it the shock will tilt and may touch. I know you won't be driving with it dropped but it's just a thought
Welded double plate around the shock and ram mounting bolt holes and maybe pivots? Something simple as a washer fully welded or custom shaped small plate. Will help with bolt shear if you hit a bump.
Amazing build! I've been watching your channel all day. I just want to comment on your terminology... That is not a cantilever arm, it is a bell crank. Thnx for sharing the Bibbster Mike(y) B
No its a cantilever. The stationary pivot inst in the center, but actually over the shock. The chassis and the hydraulic portion of the cantilever are the only parts that move. The stationary portion of a Bell Crank is in the center...
This is the first video of yours I've stumbled upon 👍 and I'm glad I did! That dimple die action is awesome 😍😍 looks like I'm headed to Eastwood after I finish watching the video!
Lil hint: when you get that little bit of deformation on your plate free pressing dimples in, lay plate flat, use receiving side of die on top of plate, and press again. Will straighten your play out, without effecting dimple.
Was so confused on your cantilever set up. Like... he's doing it wrong... then it all comes together! Awesome build man. I've got ideas on a cantilever setup for the rear of my jeep but I don't think I'll get the travel I want so I may save it for something a little more low and less slow 🤘🤘🤘🤘👏👏👍👍👍 badass man. And how did you cut hose plates, they looks really clean edge.
Hey man, been watching your vid for a while. Found you when i was trying to learn to tig. I have a big ac/dc everlast, and an 82 gt project that has been stalled out for years. Im in the upstate, need to meet up sometime. We camp out at keowee all the time. Would love to check out the shop & goose sometime.
The dudes saying you will have rear end movement don't know what they are talking about. That 4 link you have has almost a 45* angle in it. It's basically the same rear end as the mustang that axle came out of. The only rear end movement the mustang would have had would have been from rubber bushings and flexy chassis/arms. Keep it up man. The questions I did have was on the cantilever arms. Are you planing on running a bushing of some sort for the center pivot? Most mini truckers that do cantilever arms usually weld in a poli-bushing on the center pivot or something like a Johnny joint or super-pivot joint from thorbros.com for movement and side to side flex. (these are basically rebuildable heim joints but with a weldable sleeve) If those cantilever arms are a bit flexy you can always do what the offroad community does and double up the side walls and sleeve the dimple holes like seen on prerunner rear arms. A bunch of them seem to be double or tripled up 1/8 plates. Much easier to bend multiple thinner sheets that a big old plate.
I love watching what you do. I can tell you're really enjoying yourself. I'd like to get one of those horizontal drum type sanders you were using (14:51 minute mark) to sand cantilever piece. Who makes it? What is it called? Where can I get it?
Have you explored a system that allowed hydraulic cylinders being in a closed position when at ride height, and open when laid down? Reasoning is that if you had a hydraulic failure (they happen....) then you can't drive/move the car without throwing sparks. I'm sure packaging could be a problem, but overcomeable...?
Awesome work as always dude. That's some rad shit. Your making me want another fox. Hopefully you'll have it ready for foxtoberfest 2018. Look forward to seeing it in person.
I may be 76 now, but I started in my backyard in the 60's interested in this automotive fab-work. Was poor in Fairfield, Ill, but bowered dad's tools, burned-up all his welding gas 48 Mercury Club-Coupe (1st-project). Later got in electronics, made a career / family, wife passed in 2016, now I want to fab some, before I get too-dam-old. BTW, I one of your man you tube fans, love it!
awesome man....never too old !
Bravo! I'm a lowrider hydraulic guy and the one thing that is a little disappointing to me about our scene is people don't innovate with the hydraulics enough. I love the fresh perspective and you take on a different way to fabricate a hydraulic suspension.
as a guy whos just starting to get into welding and fabrication, watching you make that little metal brake blew my mind. i was watching the parts come together thinking how tf is that gonna bend metal, and then BAM bent. perfect. wow man. youre one of my biggest inspirations going in to fabrication
yeah sometime you just need to keep it simple....thanks
i had a shitty day at work but watchin you build those cantilevers just made my day and put a big smile on my face. thank you
thats awesome....glad I could help
Not a fan of mustangs but I am a fan of creativity and craftsmanship...and this build is full of both! Can't wait to see the finished product
thanks
The craftmanship on this thing is the one of the best displays ive seen anyone be capable of from nothing more than a home garage or workshop!!! Great work man looks sexy!!
Thanks
Hey man, your suspension vision made sense before this video. Don't doubt yourself. Looking good. Keep doing work son!
yeah just trying to get everyone else to get it....sometimes I think its a lost cause
Great job Kyle! That suspension will work fine. I don't see why people are saying it's going to move side to side. Chevy has been do it for decades.
so has ford
I am following your vids, and listen closely to the creative processes that just flow out that mind. If i lived in the same local as you i would take you high tech 3D design and exotic Carbon-Fiber, Zylon, Kevlar, and a slew of other fab conciderations for just the free opportunity to create. Mine is a long exposure to composites, as well as 37yrs. steel plate fitter/CNC burner. Over the years i have seen first hand guys that do any print to any steel fab(some small to 50tons). I have seen from scratch fitters, the very best period, and the more i see your vids the more inclined i am to believe your top notch from scratch!! Keep up the good work.
thanks
Absolutely ground breaking idea if it's your idea, congrats on the vision and bringing it to the world. People need to have manners and think of what was created here. The best of both worlds in a simple idea. The pros should give advice if they see any danger in it. Give credit where credits due, if your an enthusiast/builder or Engineer you would appreciate and keep this idea in your mind for use or sharing. This is sick and just remember that triangles are strength if in doubt about building strength into a part or section. Thanks for the show brother. Can't wait to watch the testing video/s :-)
Its nothing new....its been done before several times. Maybe not 100% like I have but I didnt invent it.
Thanks for watching
@@Thefabforums o okay great work anyway man. Takes guts to gut out your car like this and build it from nearly scratch anyways :-)
in the aircraft biz we call those Lightening holes, they save a lot of weight and increase the rigidity and strength of the component.
plus they look bad ass.
i find myself looking for a new bibster episode every morning, keep up the sick FAB work, love it.
thanks man
I really like the customization you did to that handheld bandsaw with the custom stand! Lol
essentially what the rear cantilever does, is allow you to raise and lower the car by raising and lowering, in principle, the top of the shock tower. Its a unique take on the standard mini-truck go-to of cantilevered bags. kudos man, over-engineered is best engineered!
yeah exactly
There is plenty of triangulation in those upper links to prevent any side movement. Looks good Kyle!
yeah ....thanks
I like the concept, I would have done reverse on the ram so when the ram is lowered all the way the vehicle is at ride height. That way if you broke a line or something it would be drivable. Also the cantilever pin should probably be much larger and have a bearing perhaps.
I freaking love this build and the plan that you've laid out so far. Lookin forward to more updates!!
thanks
I had an air suspension idea, basically the same as yours, but with bags instead of hydraulics. Never seen a cantilever setup like this before. Cool stuff!
+Warren Maslowski thanks
Looks cool AF Kyle!
Love the hydraulic idea...Will look sick on the front end!!!
I think it will the rear stability will work just fine for its intended use....We use this setup with much longer bars plus double the vehicle weight...off road...Then drive on the street home with not a problem. You should be totally solid
+Smokin07ram thanks
I'd never question what you do man, ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!! Stoked to see her coming together 👍🏻👍🏻. Sure will be cool
+CHVLKiD thanks
The right air ride components would ride better than your current QA1 coil over shock. With that said, your cantilever setup will have a good visual impact. And more importantly, it is your project so do what you like! I enjoy watching your vids, we highlight them on the site from time to time. Keep it up.
yeah I would agree...not really after ride quality on this build....more about changing things up a bit. The next c10 build I do will for sure have air
Airbags done right, gives an amazingly smoothfirm ride! But that's a cool setup you hot there!
yeah I agree
Great progress, That arm looks plenty strong, my only suggestion would be to add a doubler where the center pivot point is going to be, I know you have the tube going through but a doubler will help spread the stress over a larger area.
It has bracing on the side that tie the sides and the trough tube together.
Looking good, lateral movement won’t be an issue in a flat plane.
I just realized how much it’s looking like a sand car with street tires👍
yeah for sure
It looks like you are having a blast! Building from scratch, love the portable band saw idea(saws-all)!
thanks
You sly dog!!!! Smart a.f. using the best of both worlds. I gotcha. This is Utah William. If you have any side load issues the 03 Crown Vic has a watts link set up that is definetly worth a look. Us fabricators at Petersen's watch you alot and the Bibster rocks brother keep it up.
Awesome, thanks
It wont have any side load issues
The Fab Forums. That's awesome to hear. Very excited to see what you do with the front. I hope that the Bibster will pave the way to a whole new hot rod era. Show people you don't have to buy a freakin prius.
Love what you are doing here. Can hardly wait to see the finished project.
Just a thought on your cantilever links: I would weld some doubler slugs to the ends where the bolts go through for the shocks and the hydraulic cylinders. The bearing stress will be very high in these areas, and will Brinell the holes. A 1/4” thick washer welded to either side will reduce the stress to 1/3 what it currently is.
As I said, just a thought. Keep up the awesome work!!
+Skid Roe yeah gonna make that happen
Very slick work! That's going to be a bad ass whip.....
+firemanjim324 thanks
Great work on that cantilever setup, looking forward to seeing how you overcome your ideas for the front as well.
thanks
Very cool. Love the look, no messy tube structure coming out for the coilover mounts. I think the trianglated four link setup will be fine, especially with all rubber bushings eliminated. But what do I know, I am one class short of a motorsports engineering technology degree. Keep it up, waiting to see the front suspension.
yeah for sure....thanks
Super cool Kyle!! Looking forward to seeing the Bibbster cruisin' the streets.
I just wish I knew how to weld. My project is a bit different than yours, but still requires welding. I guess I'll have to get a mobile welder to come out and tackle the job.
Hey Kyle. I'm not asking a lot of questions, just watching and enjoying the build. I listen with headphones and the tunes you've selected are rockin'. Absolutely lovin' these edits, man! Just like the music, The Bibbster is all metal and kick-ass! Cheers, brother!
lol...thanks
Been following this since you started the Bibster - loving it! Great job Kyle! I see how your stuff just "magically" lines up, like the fact that the cage down tubes just happen to be the same width as the LCAs. You must have more than just ideas in your head - you must have tons of dimensions and calculations in a notebook somewhere with drawings and sketches. That would be a good "tool" video - the design notebook. Looking forward to the meetup in Austin Kyle!
thanks....believe it or not its all in my head
I just stumbled onto this video, and it looks like it's a few months old. I looked through the comments. The triangulated 4-link is what the off-road builds use, no issue going without panhard bar. I was kinda surprised no one asked about your geometry for your anti-squat and whether or not you did the calculations for that.
Yeah its triangulated four link and I setup the instant center when attaching the mounting tabs
The Fab Forums , I was asking about anti-sqwat. That is going to be a calculation based on the length and angles of the links in relation between the upper and lower. Depending on the setup, could cause the rear to either lift or squat under acceleration. Drag cars will change their link locations depending on track conditions for better traction or better launch from what I understand.
Great build. Very creative. Canti set up without panhard will work fine. Had several triangulated 4 links before. They don’t move sideways! Maybe put a sway bar in it.
I guess I'm special......I get it. Makes perfect sense to me. Fab on Kyle!
+dragbikedemon awesome
Gday from West Australia.
I have been watching comments on cantilever idea.
More importantly I have been listening to you coz it's your hot rod build 😊
I like what I hear and see😊
I was classically trained in Automotive Engineering 😊
I am the 3rd generation of My Creative Craft shall we say😊
My hat comes off to you in regards to you vision, creativity, craftmanship, etc.
2 Thumbs up from me😊
Awaiting in anticipation of the next instalment you be doing the work son😊
+Steve Veness thanks Steve
Your whole settup looks very nice. Great quality and your videos have always been impressive. The only thing I would beef up is the pivot point for the cantilever, cause it will be taking the full load of the suspension to frame stress.
Its actually over kill for what it needs to do. It only needs to support the weight of the rear section of the car which might be 500lbs on each side max.
Just sub'd to your channel! Felliw Fab-Head here! I'm pretty impressed with your ideas and passion for the cause! Keep turning and burning Brother! Dimple dies are the shizzy.
+Wanna Humpalot thanks
Who is complaining about side to side movement? If they're skeered of a triangulated 4 link, they can hope back in their Prius and complain to their wife about how their slow, bad handling car's feeling got hurt before they could make it to their safe space. I say that because there's no way they'll make it down the trail to address me with complaints, and they cant drive straight enough to address Kyle either. Panhard Panseys!
Love the design Kyle! Keep doing your thing!
thanks
Man that thing is really turning into a piece of art, so amazing...
Yeah I really what it to have an engineering style to it....
Saw the beginnings of this project way back,looks great...Keep up the great work!!!
thanks man
Some times scale is hard to determine in video bolts appear smaller diameter makes sense now l appreciate your work thank you
+Richard Kiefer Yeah. The hard part is the rear tires and those cantilevers are huge which makes everything else look small
Great work and job. One question. On your pivot hole. I did see a spacer in between the plates. The spacer could have a bearing in it. Great job never stop building.
This is looking more and more badass
thanks
If you're going with hydraulic fluid I suggest using pilot operated check valves so when you get to ride height there is no way it will drift down on you. Also flow control valves should do the trick for slowing it down 👍
+Jared guede Yeah that's the plan
wanted to do this same style of suspension on a 4x4 and street truck combo. thank you for a proof of concept
If you wind up having trouble with side to side movement of the rearend housing, you can fully eliminate your problem by fabbing up a watts link for it. If you do the watts link, here is a piece of advice. You definitely dont want to attach the center section to the differential cover. It will put unwanted stress on the cover and can possibly some of the internals. Its trouble you dont want.
Its not gonna have side to side movement
The Fab Forums. Im with you. I doubt you will have much side to side movement.......if any at all
I am Really enjoying this Series build Sir, God Bless All
+Gary Parker awesome
Kyle, awesome build. Love the cantilever setup! Got to get me some dimple dies.
yeah they are cool for sure
Good stuff dude! Great how you describe your thought process on the build. And I love the uniqueness of this build. I don't think side movement will be an issue. Works just fine for the rockcrawlers. Make sure you put the ground clamp on the links when you weld on them on the chassis. You might be and I didn't see it. But if you didn't then the current has to go through the heims.
+Doug Bug Yeah for sure
good job love the videos next time you gota do bushings like that fab a piece of pipe with a cap and hole in the end use some allthread and a quick homade bushing puller press works wonders and another reason to fab a tool
This is exactly what I had on the rear of my mini truck back in the 90s. You definitely make it look a lot better than what I had. I’m digging this build totally. Definitely slow her down in the travel motion or you will be replacing a lot of mounting points. I’m pretty confident that you will have no side to side tracking issues with the triangulated set up. Triangles are very strong if I can remember correctly😂. This set up usually binds pretty bad at the joints but you relieved that with all of the Hiem ends.
+Dirt Heretic 83 Yeah for sure
Awesome as usual. I see the vision!
+Mike Perotti thanks
Triangulated 4 link works on 4x4s it will easily work on your hotrod.
Nice idea for the hydraulic lift and keeping coilovers
I like the cantilever idea for the raising and lowering. I assume it will be all heim joints or spherical bushings (i.e. no rubber bushings) in that to avoid adding extra play?
yeah no rubber....all solid
Your fabrication is amazing keep up the good work
thanks
I'm really loving this background music! You didn't list it in the description.
If you're concerned about lateral rear axle location, might I suggest a Watt linkage instead of a Panhard [track] bar? That would give you more flexible vertical movement, yet keep the axle centred in the car as it goes up and down. It's a road racing suspension as opposed to a circle track one.
+John Lloyd yeah I am familiar....don't think I will need any of it. It would be road or circle track raced.
Love this build cant get enough of it
thanks
those rubber bushings are to aid in stoppin the rearend housing from getting cracked wen in a stress position ,to ease impact against the rear end housing
Nah....alot of your performance shocks dont have any rubber. The rubber is mainly to combat road noise.
Amazing skills, and amazing workshop. Greetings from Poland !
thanks
So much win here dude. Friggin' awesome. Loving the way it's turning out. Genius!
thanks
You are an inspiration mate! The shit you do makes me want to get out there and try something bigger
awesome...thats the plan
Loving the build. I am not crazy about the bracket that is bolted to the upper link arms, then bolted to axle brackets. It would look a lot more clean to cut off the factory brackets on the axle and build a truss, then weld tabs onto the truss for the heim joints.
yeah
Glad I am not the only one using thin mechanic gloves to tig weld in.
love mine
I always wanted to build my own supper car,I may not have the skill as u do but I watch ur video and I make plans
yeah I have my version of a supercar on my list of builds I want to do
now i noticed at 20:48 that you did not position the shock directly above the axle but behind it. would this put more stress on the frame towards the middle of the chassis with the 4 link set up?
no
@the fab forum, just catching up on this build, so rad. Question regarding the hydraulic cantilevered rear. By extending the ram, I understand that it would push on the spindle and raise the car. However, wouldn't some of the extension of that ram translate into compressing the coilover on the other side of the lever and actually lower the car? But perhaps the forces from scenario A are so much greater than scenario B that its negligible?
The goodness is plenty! Might be my favorite foxbody!
+Matt L awesome
Very cool adjustability with the cantilevered coil-overs. If you don't mind, I'd like to offer a suggestion on their fabrication. Almost all of the load will be seen along the top (compression) and on the bottom. (tension) If you think of an I-beam, any holes or notches are strictly avoided on the flanges, as they do the same thing. All of your lightening should be in the web. (on your sides where you have the big holes which are fine) Rather than have the three edge pieces be short, they should wrap all the way around the whole cantilever arm so that there are no places where the primary load is transferred back into the side plates. Any where that can happen will be a potential failure point. I other words, fully boxed. Good luck.
It cant be fully boxed
I've been able to follow your vision right along. Your descriptions have been very close to what you intend. Just one suggestion I would have, not the build as such, would be to replace the jack on the press with an air over hydraulic. I have the same press. Just picked up a jack from HF. Added a foot pedal. What a difference. So much easier. I can still fine tune with the handle but have both hands free to hold whatever I'm working on. Just a thought.
+jake Yeah was thinking about that while pressing these
Super simple mod and not expensive, especially on sale. I did the same with my engine hoist except for a hand control. Great project, amazing detail and forethought.
I had something of the same idea for the cantilever arms but on a much bigger scale with big rig axle and a 671 detroit. Not a true hot rod or rat rod, just my crazy vehicle that I have dreamed up and going to build as soon as I finish getting the final parts to start building it. Everybody has there own idea of what looks good and should not let people that disagree with what they think is cool stop them from building it. Opinions are like a$$holes everybody has one and some are $hitter than others. Keep doing you. Thanks for the videos and info.
Don't forget the zinc blocks on the frame for when you put it down while driving. 😀
+Allen McKinney lol
I REALLY like this project, this is good stuff ! Just one constructive observation....I would be slightly concerned about the shear strength of the bolt mounting points on those cantilever arms. For myself, I would beef them up just a little bit....Looking forward to seeing more !
+Black Waterdogs the cantilever or the bolt? Both are way over kill for the loads they will see.
I was referring to the central pivot point of the cantilever arm, where the bolt passes through it....I was thinking about the thickness of the metal. I may be underestimating it`s strength....no offense meant :-)
Looking good! I think you should do a video on 4 link covering instant center, roll center etc
dont know that I want to open that can of worms on youtube
With the cantilever I would make a piece that ran the length of the bottom. The reason is the strength of a triangle comes from the tensile strength of the of the lower member and the distance between the upper and the lower faces. Think of it like this an I beam is skinny in the middle which is the sides of your triangle, and thick one the top and bottom. It would have to stretch the lower part of the beam to fail and the web is just meant to keep it strait and the upper and lower flanges parallel.
it has one
The Fab Forums I’m not trying to insult you in any way. I go to school for engineering, and I noticed that the piece on the bottom of your cantilever doesn’t run from the shock mounting point it the body mounting point. My only concern is that steel is easy to bend sideways but hard to stretch and the tabs at the ends are un-triangulated. If the rear end articulated to much you may push those tabs sideways.
kcikass fab work, cant wait to see the finished ride!
thanks
This is bloody cool!
Love this build
thanks
I’m sure glad that you’re working on the bibster. Those shop prep videos were taking forever and bumming me out
Nice. Gives me ideas for my muscle truck project if I can ever get it started.
thats the hardest part
I love it when a plan comes together!
+YensR lol
You should look into new press plates those cast ones have been known to explode under stress!
Awesome man. Good job and keep it up. Your an inspiration no doubt! Good stuff!
thanks
I see the spring touching the axel mount in the future, when you drop it the shock will tilt and may touch. I know you won't be driving with it dropped but it's just a thought
no the axle will also tilt forward when dropped.
The Fab Forums ahhhhh! Sorry I'm dumb lol I didn't even think of that
Awesome build. Love watching. Keep it up
thanks
Welded double plate around the shock and ram mounting bolt holes and maybe pivots? Something simple as a washer fully welded or custom shaped small plate. Will help with bolt shear if you hit a bump.
I was thinking the same thing, wanna make sure those bolts are high grade too
Yeah may do something like that....bolt double shear is around 35,000lbs so it wont be an issue but I for sure dont want the holes to wear oval.
Double bolt shear is rated in static, impact and cyclical loading are cause for some concern
Amazing build! I've been watching your channel all day.
I just want to comment on your terminology... That is not a cantilever arm, it is a bell crank.
Thnx for sharing the Bibbster
Mike(y) B
No its a cantilever. The stationary pivot inst in the center, but actually over the shock. The chassis and the hydraulic portion of the cantilever are the only parts that move.
The stationary portion of a Bell Crank is in the center...
This is the first video of yours I've stumbled upon 👍 and I'm glad I did! That dimple die action is awesome 😍😍 looks like I'm headed to Eastwood after I finish watching the video!
When mocking up links you can use PVC pipe to make sure you have it right before welding up tubing
yeah
Great video as always!
thanks
I'm from Brazil, I'm really looking forward to seeing this creation, and congratulations +1 subscribed
+Jaz Abriteuco Awesome. Thanks
Lil hint: when you get that little bit of deformation on your plate free pressing dimples in, lay plate flat, use receiving side of die on top of plate, and press again. Will straighten your play out, without effecting dimple.
Was so confused on your cantilever set up. Like... he's doing it wrong... then it all comes together! Awesome build man. I've got ideas on a cantilever setup for the rear of my jeep but I don't think I'll get the travel I want so I may save it for something a little more low and less slow 🤘🤘🤘🤘👏👏👍👍👍 badass man. And how did you cut hose plates, they looks really clean edge.
Hey man, been watching your vid for a while. Found you when i was trying to learn to tig. I have a big ac/dc everlast, and an 82 gt project that has been stalled out for years. Im in the upstate, need to meet up sometime. We camp out at keowee all the time. Would love to check out the shop & goose sometime.
yeah man....I plan to have some annual meet ups at the new shop. Stay tuned
The dudes saying you will have rear end movement don't know what they are talking about. That 4 link you have has almost a 45* angle in it. It's basically the same rear end as the mustang that axle came out of. The only rear end movement the mustang would have had would have been from rubber bushings and flexy chassis/arms. Keep it up man.
The questions I did have was on the cantilever arms. Are you planing on running a bushing of some sort for the center pivot? Most mini truckers that do cantilever arms usually weld in a poli-bushing on the center pivot or something like a Johnny joint or super-pivot joint from thorbros.com for movement and side to side flex. (these are basically rebuildable heim joints but with a weldable sleeve)
If those cantilever arms are a bit flexy you can always do what the offroad community does and double up the side walls and sleeve the dimple holes like seen on prerunner rear arms. A bunch of them seem to be double or tripled up 1/8 plates. Much easier to bend multiple thinner sheets that a big old plate.
yeah for sure.
No bushing, unlike the mini truck setups the only time mine will actuate is when raised up or down. It wont move going down the road.
I love watching what you do. I can tell you're really enjoying yourself. I'd like to get one of those horizontal drum type sanders you were using (14:51 minute mark) to sand cantilever piece. Who makes it? What is it called? Where can I get it?
thanks...not sure who makes it. This is kind of like what I have - amzn.to/2HB2yzt
Have you explored a system that allowed hydraulic cylinders being in a closed position when at ride height, and open when laid down? Reasoning is that if you had a hydraulic failure (they happen....) then you can't drive/move the car without throwing sparks. I'm sure packaging could be a problem, but overcomeable...?
I have not
Damn that wielding table is awsome
+josh dylan I love it !
Killer rifs!!! Nice work too man!
+Nick james thanks
Awesome work as always dude. That's some rad shit. Your making me want another fox. Hopefully you'll have it ready for foxtoberfest 2018. Look forward to seeing it in person.
it will probably be there ready or not