@@Sensei948 No, it won’t damage the engine. If you run that heavy of an oil mix you don’t want to let your saw idle for very long because it will foul the plug. A lot of carbon can build up with that heavy of a mix.
I run a 24 inch bar on my Mac and I have never seen a power difference in a shorter bar. Good filing and you'll be fine, especially if it's tuned right, let the saw work you don't have to dog it down every time and force it.
Bar that needs a saw, never heard it phrased quite like that! Other problem with mixing bar brands is that the oiler hole is in different spots, depending on the manufacturer.
Also, funny that you needed a half wrap saw. Over here in the East (just below Quebec), I have never seen a full wrap saw being used. Ever. I learned that they existed via UA-cam.......
Interesting it has the 266/268 filter and intake elbow, but has the rubber buffer around the block manifold and also the bolt holes for the 272 filter holder.
Holzfforma states this saw will handle up to 32" bar so that 28" will be just fine on there I have the 372xp with 28 on it, i just cut an oak that was 4 foot at the base and i had to do 2 seperate cuts on the notch to get it done so i dont think this setup is to big in my opinion, you can always drop a 20" bar on it for doing some firewood and limbing
I haven’t had an issue with the 28” bar on it. I’m running a full comp chain and it pulls it through oak without issue. If I were to run a 32” on it I might switch to a full skip chain.
I would never consider putting a bar of that length on that saw. I know Buckin likes to do that stand up and buck. But he doesn't have any oak or other hard hardwood out there. That saw was built to run a 20 inch bar for a perfect balance . You really loose a lot of power form the parasitic drag of the long bars. When you start blocking wood around the 20 inch diameter the the shorter bar will will cut so much better and faster. Also the longer the bar is the harder it is on the mounting studs and the anti vibe system. In my opinion from cutting midwestern hardwoods a bar of that length shouldn't be on a saw under 90 cc or or more. Take care my friend!!😀😀 Logger Al
Thank You for sharing your knowledge on this. I really appreciate it. Where I’m from (Central Wisconsin) a 20” bar is considered a long bar. My dad and granddad would’ve never run a bar as long as these on their saws. They would’ve both asked what in the world you need a bar that size for Lol. I like running them for a number of reasons. First, I drive truck for a living so my lower back is not what it once was . However I will say that if you’re lugging a big saw with a large bar around the woods all day that a long bar can strain your back as well. I do like being able to reach things with the longer bar though and I also like to be able to rest the tip on a log when I’m tired of holding the saw so that I don’t have to bend down and put the saw on the ground. I can just rest for a minute while standing. It helps keep me from becoming fatigued. The second is that like you I cut a lot of hardwood and the oak trees that I’m cutting have quite a few branches coming off of the trunk and I find it handy having a long bar to cut through the crotch of the branches where they meet the trunk. You make some really good points about the strain on the saw and the fact that Buckin’ is cutting mostly fir which is not easy wood to cut through (especially the size wood they have) but I don’t think it quite matches up with oak. Thanks for watching and for helping out anyone who might be wondering about using a long bar. 🤙
@@thebustedwedge1141 LOL!! Man it's a small world. Are you by any chance going to the firewood frenzy in EauClair at the Wolf Ridge splitter factory tomorrow??
@@aldredske6197 no, my daughter has a softball game in Reedsburg tomorrow and I haven’t been able to watch one all season so I’m going to take her to that and then I have a graduation party for my nephew in Marshall tomorrow evening.
I do actually, not to try and make excuses but I’ve been very busy this year. I started a small business this spring and that has taken a large amount of my time. I plan to do a follow up review on the g660 & the g272. I’ve also got plans to do videos on a couple of other Holzfforma saws that I purchased. Sorry it’s taking me so long to deliver content. Thanks for watching.
Not that took the whole bar. I’ve ran a tank and a half of fuel through it and I did dog it into a 21” poplar and it bogged down pretty bad. I am running it pretty rich yet though during the break in process so I’m hoping that it gets better but so far I’m not very impressed with the torque.
Yeah, I’m giving it the benefit of the doubt for now. I don’t want to push it too hard while breaking it in number one and number two it could be that I’m just used to my ms460. My 460 rips but I’ve had it for a long time and it has a few more cc’s than the 272. I like the saw so far as far as general cutting. I was a little surprised when it bogged down while dogging in on the face cut. I’m hoping once it’s broken in I can turn it up and it will come to life.
It took about a month and the shipping at that time was $50. That was on the 5th of December. I think it’s gone up a little since but it depends on where you’re located.
Type Wagner's Chainsaw into Google. They're a dealer for Holzfforma, located in Honey Brook, PA. Right now he has the G272 in stock and on sale for $275. And it's FREE shipping! He gets them to your house in 2/3 days, sometimes quicker
it is a 70 cm or 80 cm bar, if it is to cut such small trees just be for more weight, more expensive, bar and chain and cuts much slower only has disadvantages I use 18 bar on my 372xp and on my 572xp, it cuts much faster
I wasn’t aware that the g372 had an option for that. I did know that you could get that with the oem Husqvarna. I went with this saw specifically because of the walbro carburetor as it’s supposed to be a good brand of carb knowing that they’ve used them on the Stihl saws. Thanks for watching and for the info.
You open the hole inside the top cover when working in cold and damp conditions so it draws hot dry air from the motor into the air intake.When running a bar that big we would want to see a log the same size to see how the saw preforms to it full potential or if it lags and is not up to the job.The way you started the saw is called "drop starting" and is a very dangerous way to start a saw.You greatly risk cutting your leg and foot doing that. Its also hard on your back.You are setting an example to a lot of people so please show them the safe way to start a saw on the ground when starting a cold motor.
What I really like about your videos is you skip the bullshit and get to the point. You are also very informative thanx.....James
The white thing actually looks like a spare oil pump drive. A lot of the clones come with one.
Yep, that’s what I’ve found. It can replace the metal one on an oem Husqvarna saw as well. Thank You for the help.
@@thebustedwedge1141 oil mix 1:33 ?
@@Sensei948 40:1 is what I run in all my saws. I add a capful of 2 stroke oil to that for the first few tankfuls when I’m breaking the saw in.
@@thebustedwedge1141 33: 1 is wrong? May it damage the engine?
@@Sensei948 No, it won’t damage the engine. If you run that heavy of an oil mix you don’t want to let your saw idle for very long because it will foul the plug. A lot of carbon can build up with that heavy of a mix.
I run a 24 inch bar on my Mac and I have never seen a power difference in a shorter bar. Good filing and you'll be fine, especially if it's tuned right, let the saw work you don't have to dog it down every time and force it.
Dang that bar is huge!
Lol, It looks bigger than it is. It’s only a 28” bar.
I have the G372xp as far so good on my saw. Good video man, keep them coming.
Bar that needs a saw, never heard it phrased quite like that! Other problem with mixing bar brands is that the oiler hole is in different spots, depending on the manufacturer.
Also, funny that you needed a half wrap saw. Over here in the East (just below Quebec), I have never seen a full wrap saw being used. Ever. I learned that they existed via UA-cam.......
Lol, what can I say I’m a man of many mysteries! 😄
Hey, how about a 1 year review of all these blue saws. Still worky worky?
Interesting it has the 266/268 filter and intake elbow, but has the rubber buffer around the block manifold and also the bolt holes for the 272 filter holder.
This guy's sharp, hes right. Just to say the HD air filter does not work. Not enough cover clearance for the filter
Thanks for the info Bennett207.
would need a 272 top cover and paint it blue lol
may be a 272 cover hard to tell
Looks like a great saw. Why did you choose this one over the G372XP? I'm trying to decide which one to get.
Because I wanted the lower top. I think the g372xp would be a better buy though.
Holzfforma states this saw will handle up to 32" bar so that 28" will be just fine on there
I have the 372xp with 28 on it, i just cut an oak that was 4 foot at the base and i had to do 2 seperate cuts on the notch to get it done so i dont think this setup is to big in my opinion, you can always drop a 20" bar on it for doing some firewood and limbing
I haven’t had an issue with the 28” bar on it. I’m running a full comp chain and it pulls it through oak without issue. If I were to run a 32” on it I might switch to a full skip chain.
I would never consider putting a bar of that length on that saw. I know Buckin likes to do that stand up and buck. But he doesn't have any oak or other hard hardwood out there. That saw was built to run a 20 inch bar for a perfect balance . You really loose a lot of power form the parasitic drag of the long bars. When you start blocking wood around the 20 inch diameter the the shorter bar will will cut so much better and faster. Also the longer the bar is the harder it is on the mounting studs and the anti vibe system.
In my opinion from cutting midwestern hardwoods a bar of that length shouldn't be on a saw under 90 cc or or more.
Take care my friend!!😀😀
Logger Al
Thank You for sharing your knowledge on this. I really appreciate it. Where I’m from (Central Wisconsin) a 20” bar is considered a long bar. My dad and granddad would’ve never run a bar as long as these on their saws. They would’ve both asked what in the world you need a bar that size for Lol. I like running them for a number of reasons. First, I drive truck for a living so my lower back is not what it once was . However I will say that if you’re lugging a big saw with a large bar around the woods all day that a long bar can strain your back as well. I do like being able to reach things with the longer bar though and I also like to be able to rest the tip on a log when I’m tired of holding the saw so that I don’t have to bend down and put the saw on the ground. I can just rest for a minute while standing. It helps keep me from becoming fatigued. The second is that like you I cut a lot of hardwood and the oak trees that I’m cutting have quite a few branches coming off of the trunk and I find it handy having a long bar to cut through the crotch of the branches where they meet the trunk. You make some really good points about the strain on the saw and the fact that Buckin’ is cutting mostly fir which is not easy wood to cut through (especially the size wood they have) but I don’t think it quite matches up with oak. Thanks for watching and for helping out anyone who might be wondering about using a long bar. 🤙
@@thebustedwedge1141 where in central Wisconsin are you at. I'm also from central Wisconsin. I'm from Neshkoro.
@@aldredske6197 not very far away from you Lol. I live over by Friendship, WI
@@thebustedwedge1141 LOL!! Man it's a small world. Are you by any chance going to the firewood frenzy in EauClair at the Wolf Ridge splitter factory tomorrow??
@@aldredske6197 no, my daughter has a softball game in Reedsburg tomorrow and I haven’t been able to watch one all season so I’m going to take her to that and then I have a graduation party for my nephew in Marshall tomorrow evening.
the plastic part is a spare oil pump drive
Any new Holzfforma videos planned?
I do actually, not to try and make excuses but I’ve been very busy this year. I started a small business this spring and that has taken a large amount of my time. I plan to do a follow up review on the g660 & the g272. I’ve also got plans to do videos on a couple of other Holzfforma saws that I purchased. Sorry it’s taking me so long to deliver content. Thanks for watching.
That little plastic gear you asked what it was is your oil pump gear under the clutch. Must be they gave you a spare one
Awesome video man thanks for the good info 👍
Looks like a spare oiler worm gear.
Yep that's what it is. it's kinda scary they give a spare one, like they already know they wear out easy.
I thought so too on first look, without a second look at it he may be right cause there is a passage in the top cover.
👍🤝
Have you had it in a tree yet that took the whole bar? Just curious how the torque curve was on these compared to the name brand
Not that took the whole bar. I’ve ran a tank and a half of fuel through it and I did dog it into a 21” poplar and it bogged down pretty bad. I am running it pretty rich yet though during the break in process so I’m hoping that it gets better but so far I’m not very impressed with the torque.
Maybe a tweek or two after break in?? I hope it improves ,would be a good saw for the price.
Yeah, I’m giving it the benefit of the doubt for now. I don’t want to push it too hard while breaking it in number one and number two it could be that I’m just used to my ms460. My 460 rips but I’ve had it for a long time and it has a few more cc’s than the 272. I like the saw so far as far as general cutting. I was a little surprised when it bogged down while dogging in on the face cut. I’m hoping once it’s broken in I can turn it up and it will come to life.
Whered u pick it up from? If u could tell us... im interested and sure others are as well... cuz i didnt know thwy made a 200 series version
I purchased the saw from farmertec. You can go to www.farmertec.com and find and purchase these saws there. Thanks for watching.
@@thebustedwedge1141 u remember how long the shipping was and cost?
It took about a month and the shipping at that time was $50. That was on the 5th of December. I think it’s gone up a little since but it depends on where you’re located.
Type Wagner's Chainsaw into Google. They're a dealer for Holzfforma, located in Honey Brook, PA. Right now he has the G272 in stock and on sale for $275. And it's FREE shipping! He gets them to your house in 2/3 days, sometimes quicker
@@chrissquires8170 I didn’t know that. Thanks for the info. Also thanks for letting me know what the plastic piece is. 👍
it is a 70 cm or 80 cm bar, if it is to cut such small trees
just be for more weight, more expensive, bar and chain
and cuts much slower
only has
disadvantages
I use 18 bar on my 372xp and on my 572xp, it cuts much faster
Yes it cuts faster with a shorter bar but you need to bend over constantly. You don’t need to do that with a longer bar you can stand up and buck.
you don't know what you say
the g372 has an option, the filter and the lower cover
even the original 372 oem has this option
just ask at the brand
I wasn’t aware that the g372 had an option for that. I did know that you could get that with the oem Husqvarna. I went with this saw specifically because of the walbro carburetor as it’s supposed to be a good brand of carb knowing that they’ve used them on the Stihl saws. Thanks for watching and for the info.
How is the anti-vibe?
Seemed to work very well.
It works good on mine
Could you do a compression test?
I don’t own a compression tester. 🤷♂️
@@thebustedwedge1141 you can hold the handle of the starter and let her drop ... if it does it in"steps" then the compresion is good
@@MihaiVH Yeah the ol gravity compression test lol.
@@RumfordSledhead the cheapest device
Bennett207 I bought a compression tester and did three separate tests with it. All three times the compression topped out at 145 psi.
Oil pump seal
Faeda in sardu non ti capisce nesuno di noj sino vai a fare una bella pasegiata con la tua ragazza
You open the hole inside the top cover when working in cold and damp conditions so it draws hot dry air from the motor into the air intake.When running a bar that big we would want to see a log the same size to see how the saw preforms to it full potential or if it lags and is not up to the job.The way you started the saw is called "drop starting" and is a very dangerous way to start a saw.You greatly risk cutting your leg and foot doing that. Its also hard on your back.You are setting an example to a lot of people so please show them the safe way to start a saw on the ground when starting a cold motor.