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C4 Ford Transmission DIY Transbrake Valve Body
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- Опубліковано 30 лис 2023
- Jay Robarge of Broader Performance will address some common questions concerning our DIY transbrake and reverse manual valve body kit for the Ford C4 transmission.
An old drag racer back in the 70s came up with a good idea I always thought would catch on but never did apparently was a transmission fluid health indicator. It was simple and looked really neat. On the dashboard of his Camero he had a 6 inch Pyrex tube with a 12 volt lightbulb behind it in a metal box and ran transmission fluid from the cooler line through it. He would check it on every pass. If the fluid looked clear red he kept racing. If it started going dark and murky he would stop racing to save his transmission from damage or burning up.
I am surprised it did not catch on as a lot of transmissions could be saved when caught early. 😊
That's a cool idea
I would sure be interested in a kit to do that other valve body you mention that this one does not fit, I believe it is the Pinto Mustang II 4cyl valve body and I have a few of those myself that would be nice to use like this if you ever decide to do a kit.
Fabulous, buying a kit shortly, good timing 👌
We appreciate it.
Excellent video. I've saved this for future builds, I've learned a lot. Maybe a video on the number 9 thrust bearing roller conversion kit and your external trans brake for push in stile for C4s
Coming soon.
Brilliant video. I have watched several times . Just to make sure I'm doing all exactly as you say
Just a thought maybe for a future video. I have just got a couple these kits . I recently built a transmission for a guy that had already bought from you and supplied me to build.
Some these guys once they get the transmission back have never used a Transbrake and ask me how to work it.
Maybe a video of a completed valve body , maybe in a car and show how to use it.
I have used Frank Merkl and his instructions say bring rpm to 1500 then apply brake etc.
I could then refer them here on how to use it???????
Just a thought anyway. Love the kits I just received and going to order more soon
Or maybe , could add to instructions a suggested operating procedure.
Certainly not a criticism at all just an idea for future content. Thanks Greg
We appreciate your business. Great suggestion. Sadly I don't currently own a car with a C4 but I have friends that do so I will see if I can make that happen.
I'm loving your C4 videos Jay. I apologise if you have mentioned already, but at what point do you use teflon sealing rings over the iron rings? Is it a certain pressure or horsepower level?
I use teflon rings with all fixed pressure valve bodies.
Great videos on C4 and C6. I see you use a heavy internal spring on the pressure regulator rather than a heavy outer spring. My question is, does the heavy inner spring regulate the boost valve, stopping the high line pressure in reverse? So pressures are similar in all forward gears and reverse gear?
Boost valve is disabled. Pressure will be the same in all gears. No more reverse boost.
At 10.59 you mention the cutback valve and how some may have spring or ball in there but that it does not matter, I am just wondering if you put it back in with a ball or spring will that matter or do you need to remove the ball or spring if it had one in there when it is taken apart and only put the valve back in without the ball or spring?
It really doesn't matter. Just put it back the way it was.
Hi Jay, I purchased the DIY kit reverse manual with a trans break awhile ago , life got in the way and have not got around to building a C4 maybe hope to have time this summer. I do not recall seeing a separator plate in the kit. Just looked in the box quickly when it was delivered and put it on the garage shelve. Should I have a separator plate?
Its best to contact the shop directly via email.
Jay can you share how you fixture the valve body in a milling machine? I have access to one to do these mods if I get your kit, but not a machinist and curiuos how you hold it? Thanks for sharing.
I just lay it on the milling table and hold it with traditional style milling fixture clamps. The valve body doesn't sit flat but for this particular operation it doesn't matter.
I notice you use a stiffer inner spring on the valve that sets the pressure, where I've seen others use a longer/stiffer outer spring. Is there any difference? Which is better? Thanks
A longer spring will have a more consistent spring rate. This will make the pressure less variable with rpm.
Hey Jay. I understand these are constant pressure valve bodies, but is there any variance at all in pressure at, say, RPM points of Idle, 4000rpm, 8000rpm?
The pressure does vary some with rpm. I'll demonstrate this at some point. Good question.
@BroaderPerformance I'd be interested in a video if you have time on this. I have been playing with a forward pattern constant pressure valve body. It varies around 20 psi from idle to 4000rpm cold, but when oil is hot, it varies around 40 psi. It also isn't responding to heavy springs on the pressure relief. Same pressure. I'm considering putting a spring that will deliberately coil bind to control how far the valve opens, but I don't know if that's a good idea?
What kit ??
broaderperformance.com/product/c4-protree-transbrake-valve-body-kit/
hey Jay! Dana Sniff here how you doing? #:>)
Hi Dana, doing ok under the new world order.