Amazing work man! As a Rhoads shape fan this new design of yours is just awesome and a very cool modern take on it, the smaller body is something I would love on a V shape guitar
Great indepth details, amazing video and build. I used to machine the neck shaft and fretboard separately as well, and I did get a few gaps between the parts too. Now I get the blanks as flat as I can, then I'll route the truss rod channel and the heel contour (when there is fretboard overhang, if not I just route the truss rod pocket), remove the part from the cnc, clamp it with the fretboard blank between two flat mdf boards and then machine the rest of the neck and fretboard. That requires me to use two fixtures I built, the first one to index the blanks with the fretboard facing up (so I can remove the pre glued blanks and put it back in the exact same spot after it's assembled) and the second one to index the neck facing down (for the profile carve), after it's been cut out of the blank. It introduces more steps and fixtures (which for one-offs isn't really worth it I suppose), but man the joint quality is impecable, you can't see any seam at all. Also, no risk of the parts slipping while gluing. I find it a little dangerous to cut the contour around the fretboard overhang though, my fretboards are at least 6.25mm thick and I use a downcut bit for the first half and finish it with an upcut so I don't chip anything.
Yes, I figured something like this would work. I might still go that route but I hope with vacuum clamping I can get away doing it this way as I do offer custom radius and neck profiles so I'd end up having to make a new fixture quite often. For it moving during glue up I use some small locating pins I drill through the fret slot. This way there has never been an issue on that front for me.
@@DarkArtGuitars If you build a fixture with a flat bottom to insert the neck facing down, you can just glue a couple of EVA rubber strips or something soft to the sides of where the fretboard should touch, then make the heel of your part flush to the fixture height wise when inserted, then use a flat piece of wood bolted to the fixture holding the neck down by the heel and do something similar on the headstock (well too bad your guitars don't have em 😂😂 but you can still make it work with your designs, a true headless like a steinberger would be more problematic). If you haven't already, watch that video where Rob Scallon visits the USA Schecter factory and watch how they clamp the neck for machining the back profile, I did something similar.
Great build, man. Jescar SS fretwire is the way to go...my first builds from around a decade ago dont show much wear. I feel ya on playing vs building. I started building when i got into a car accident which permanently damaged the extensor muscled in my fretting arm...on my way to my first lesson with Rusty Cooley no less!
Very refreshing to see a builder being so open about why they do things - like laminated necks because you happen to like them and not for some mystical reason. You have a huge glueing surface for the neck joint - probably longer than a Gibson "long tenon" so I'd be very surprised if that joint wasn't rock solid. Plus the smooth set-through transition does look very comfortable. That really is a tiny body for a V - if it had a headstock it'd look off - but as a headless the proportions look fine. You access the truss rod from the very end of the guitar?
Yes, there is a straight access hole from the very top. I think in people's minds a metal bolt must be inherently stronger than a glue joint even though that isn't the case most of the time.
@DarkArtGuitars a proper glue joint has been proven to be stronger than the surrounding wood itself. Leo Fender made those decisions because he was a manufacturing genius, he knew nothing about making a proper instrument.
Love the vid new here idk if ur audio is usually like this but when listening with headphones i can hear you swallowing all over the place after u finish talking in places. Super nitpicky take here but it would be super sick if u pay attention to that for the next video ❤️❤️ cheers bro great vid
When I record audio with me on camera I use a shotgun mic where as for the voice over here I used my lavalier mic. Possible that due to the placement it picks up the swallowing a bit more.
I’ve seen 2 videos recently that had some nice drilling setups for the tremolo screws issue. One here: ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxIiNpDLQpTcMOrVOMhI-zXT82z460BMJN?si=RXihFn-mEpn8Vbe2 And another (that I can no longer find the video of!) where a guy built practically the same type of jig but 3D printed. He had other ones made for drilling humbucker holes, full angled wedge to guide for tremolo screws, and even one that matched the outer curve of his guitar model to perfectly place the output jack
I've seen them before too. Don't really feel the need for a jig to drill the pickup holes, but for the trem it could be useful as it supports the overly long drill from flexing.
@@DarkArtGuitars Cool cool... Just thought it would be cool as like a starter, vuzz i would like to get startet on some guitar painting my self, so when you sad your was a really simple one i thought that it could have been a cool vid 😂😋😜
The use of Richlite for nuts implies the potential use of Graphtec for fretboards... (ok now that would be one expensive fretboard but hey... it'd be cool)
If they made sheets of it that would be possible. I also think it's mainly expensive because it's a brand name product and not just the materials being expensive. Plus Richlite isn't that cheap either.
I don't currently do any endorsements (as in free guitars), just doesn't make sense at my size. There may be discounts if you're an active musician with a large enough following but I can't afford to build free guitars at the moment.
Your commentary is great btw! I was chatting to a friend just today about how insane the effective clamping pressure is from vacuum bagging is. Looking forward to see how you approach that!!
Amazing work man! As a Rhoads shape fan this new design of yours is just awesome and a very cool modern take on it, the smaller body is something I would love on a V shape guitar
Great indepth details, amazing video and build. I used to machine the neck shaft and fretboard separately as well, and I did get a few gaps between the parts too. Now I get the blanks as flat as I can, then I'll route the truss rod channel and the heel contour (when there is fretboard overhang, if not I just route the truss rod pocket), remove the part from the cnc, clamp it with the fretboard blank between two flat mdf boards and then machine the rest of the neck and fretboard. That requires me to use two fixtures I built, the first one to index the blanks with the fretboard facing up (so I can remove the pre glued blanks and put it back in the exact same spot after it's assembled) and the second one to index the neck facing down (for the profile carve), after it's been cut out of the blank. It introduces more steps and fixtures (which for one-offs isn't really worth it I suppose), but man the joint quality is impecable, you can't see any seam at all. Also, no risk of the parts slipping while gluing. I find it a little dangerous to cut the contour around the fretboard overhang though, my fretboards are at least 6.25mm thick and I use a downcut bit for the first half and finish it with an upcut so I don't chip anything.
Yes, I figured something like this would work. I might still go that route but I hope with vacuum clamping I can get away doing it this way as I do offer custom radius and neck profiles so I'd end up having to make a new fixture quite often.
For it moving during glue up I use some small locating pins I drill through the fret slot. This way there has never been an issue on that front for me.
@@DarkArtGuitars If you build a fixture with a flat bottom to insert the neck facing down, you can just glue a couple of EVA rubber strips or something soft to the sides of where the fretboard should touch, then make the heel of your part flush to the fixture height wise when inserted, then use a flat piece of wood bolted to the fixture holding the neck down by the heel and do something similar on the headstock (well too bad your guitars don't have em 😂😂 but you can still make it work with your designs, a true headless like a steinberger would be more problematic). If you haven't already, watch that video where Rob Scallon visits the USA Schecter factory and watch how they clamp the neck for machining the back profile, I did something similar.
@@DarkArtGuitars i have a suggestion video how about headless 5 or 6 string bass :)
@@recordlabeldao7820 Next tiem someone orders a bass I can make a video. I've only ever built one so far.
Great build, man. Jescar SS fretwire is the way to go...my first builds from around a decade ago dont show much wear. I feel ya on playing vs building. I started building when i got into a car accident which permanently damaged the extensor muscled in my fretting arm...on my way to my first lesson with Rusty Cooley no less!
Absolutely amazing work!! I love how the guitar ended looking, dark-redish feelings, and the whole process is a lot to learn by itself, good work bro.
Love this one!
Very refreshing to see a builder being so open about why they do things - like laminated necks because you happen to like them and not for some mystical reason.
You have a huge glueing surface for the neck joint - probably longer than a Gibson "long tenon" so I'd be very surprised if that joint wasn't rock solid. Plus the smooth set-through transition does look very comfortable.
That really is a tiny body for a V - if it had a headstock it'd look off - but as a headless the proportions look fine.
You access the truss rod from the very end of the guitar?
Yes, there is a straight access hole from the very top. I think in people's minds a metal bolt must be inherently stronger than a glue joint even though that isn't the case most of the time.
@DarkArtGuitars a proper glue joint has been proven to be stronger than the surrounding wood itself. Leo Fender made those decisions because he was a manufacturing genius, he knew nothing about making a proper instrument.
Love the vid new here idk if ur audio is usually like this but when listening with headphones i can hear you swallowing all over the place after u finish talking in places. Super nitpicky take here but it would be super sick if u pay attention to that for the next video ❤️❤️ cheers bro great vid
When I record audio with me on camera I use a shotgun mic where as for the voice over here I used my lavalier mic. Possible that due to the placement it picks up the swallowing a bit more.
I’ve seen 2 videos recently that had some nice drilling setups for the tremolo screws issue.
One here: ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxIiNpDLQpTcMOrVOMhI-zXT82z460BMJN?si=RXihFn-mEpn8Vbe2
And another (that I can no longer find the video of!) where a guy built practically the same type of jig but 3D printed. He had other ones made for drilling humbucker holes, full angled wedge to guide for tremolo screws, and even one that matched the outer curve of his guitar model to perfectly place the output jack
I've seen them before too. Don't really feel the need for a jig to drill the pickup holes, but for the trem it could be useful as it supports the overly long drill from flexing.
Could you maybe make a vid on your spraybooth?
It really doesn't work too well, once I get it to a point I'm happy I'll gladly make a video but in it's current state it is just barely functional.
@@DarkArtGuitars
Cool cool...
Just thought it would be cool as like a starter, vuzz i would like to get startet on some guitar painting my self, so when you sad your was a really simple one i thought that it could have been a cool vid 😂😋😜
@@Martinroot I've heard people getting cheap grow tents and adding an exhaust fan to them as a cheap and easy spray setup.
The use of Richlite for nuts implies the potential use of Graphtec for fretboards... (ok now that would be one expensive fretboard but hey... it'd be cool)
If they made sheets of it that would be possible. I also think it's mainly expensive because it's a brand name product and not just the materials being expensive. Plus Richlite isn't that cheap either.
@@DarkArtGuitars maybe. I'd love to see it one day tho, in all white TUSQ or Graphtec it'd be an awesome look
Endorser??❤
I don't currently do any endorsements (as in free guitars), just doesn't make sense at my size. There may be discounts if you're an active musician with a large enough following but I can't afford to build free guitars at the moment.
Bye bye killer bee, it's been real 🤍
Your commentary is great btw! I was chatting to a friend just today about how insane the effective clamping pressure is from vacuum bagging is. Looking forward to see how you approach that!!