I was mounting my prints to the rear of the mat and not the backing board and someone said you should never do that but what a relief when i watched this video, even though he said its not the prefered method. Naked chap is my hero, thankyou so much.
Thank for sharing this information, I've learned so much from just one video. Is there a method of dry mounting without a press? I would love to introduce this method where I work but space is very limited.
Great tutorial! Can you glue the mat window onto the mounting board with dry mounting tissue? I am dry mounting and I want my mat to adhere permanently.
While the printing presses from Seal are probably phantasticly built and perfect for the job, I also cannot justify the cost. So I bought a T-shirt press. You can get one for something between 150$ and 250$ depending on the size. They usually come with a silicone matte, which I leave in. I put two matte boards on top of the silicone matte and put my print between the two boards. My experience with these things is, that they work perfectly well. You might ruin a print or two in the beginning, until you have adjusted the pressure, so take some cheap paper for some test runs. After that: No problems at all.
Here's a hint for people wanting to get started in Dry Mounting: Hopefully, you have been convinced by the flatness of this mount - far superior to all of the other methods presented - and you should be equally persuaded by its permanence; You will not be getting calls from everyone you sold a print to six months ago, complaininmg that it has slipped out of position, or fallen completely out of the mat..... The TIP : You do not have to buy into a $2,000 press from Seal or other traditional manufacturers to do this. The T-Shirt printing industry has made available a vast palette of machines for t-shirt printing which operate under exactly the same range of temperatures, time, and clamping pressure, and of course are fully adjustable for all of these parameters. These machines are available at a small fraction of the extortionary cost of traditional dry-mount presses, and they are functionallly identical! I have tried these, and can report they perform admirably for dry-mounting photos. You do have to buy dry-mount tissue, of course, and it is a bit more involved than the other methods, but it remains by far the flattest, most permanent and most prestigious method for mounting photos.
Just discovered your channel, now subscribed. I’m a B&W photographer from the 70s and 80s and I always dry mounted my prints. I’d like to continue to dry mount my B&W prints. I have totally move to digital photography and I’m getting mixed advice on inkjet prints. Can I carefully dry mount inkjet prints? If so is there a different way to dry mount color and B&W? What are your recommendations? Thanks.
The advice to read the competition requirements is perfect because the answer is usually the opposite of what you’re asking: If you are in a competition that requires framing and glazing, there is a high chance that they will tell you that glass is *prohibited*. Many places that show art consider glass to be a dangerous liability, if the print falls off the wall and the glass breaks in front of somebody. If you are shipping the work to a competition, many forbid glass in case it breaks in transit, which could also damage the print. For large prints, glass is heavy, and more expensive to ship and protect for shipment. For safety and weight reasons, a competition that requires you to frame a print will probably recommend plexiglas/acrylic glazing.
I loved everything of the dry mount, but my OCD won't let me do it because it is permanent... and I keep thinking about future "what ifs" that may never happen.... but what if they happen? Why am I like this?
Ohhhh you are so pretty! Almost want to subscribe in case you finally decide to expose urself lol ;) On a more serious note, method one is apparently a no-no. You never stick your photograph to the top mat, but instead always to the backing board. You will avoid future problems like buckling etc.. I have seen the T hinge done in method 2 in a more straightforward manner, just the way you write T. So after you stick a vertical tape on the back of your art, you use a horizontal one on top of it to glue it to the back. As for dry mounting I am still confused whether to go with that or not, as it's not a conservation accepted practice. I like the idea its super flat, but would it peel off at some point in the future or is it indefinitely adhered flat??
Taping the print to the font mat or back doesn’t matter if the print buckles. T hinges can be applied either way, but I chose to show a more decorative method for the display reasons mentioned in the video. Some dry mount tissues are removable and others aren’t. As for conservationists, they will complain regardless of how a print is mounted or taped.
Hi there. I have this problem that i dont quit understand soi hope you can help :) until now ive been shoonting 6x6 square and there is no problem buying rhe passpartout and frame because there is no cutting of the image. I can put right in . So now ive started shooting 6x4.5 , retangular ( i know you know that that 6x4.5 is retangular 😀) anyway now when i do a print i have to go on compromise cutting the image if i want to fit it in a standard passoartout/frame. Now i dont like cutting off any of my image because i seldom leave any unwantes space when i photograph. So if i want to keep the image as it is i have to buy a mote expensive frame made in special meassures. Eks i often want to do a print size 50x40 cm because it fits nicely in a standard frame but then i have to cut the image on the baseboard and often somebodys feets or a head or something important on a building is cut away. So my question is : is there a workaround to do the ratio so a 6x4.5 or a 35 mm image is kept as it is and to fit into a standard ratio frame as a eks 40x50 or a 30x40, 20x30.. and so on. ( maybe a stupid question but i dont really understand this 😀) regards jesper
Just as inconveniently permanent as dry mount, but messier and much more work to produce, there's also wet mount. Not for art prints, but for permanent displays (on a wall, for instance). I've seen it done (on video), but we can hope it's now mercifully extinct. Not many folks make wall-size prints any more that would be suitable for this technique.
I was mounting my prints to the rear of the mat and not the backing board and someone said you should never do that but what a relief when i watched this video, even though he said its not the prefered method. Naked chap is my hero, thankyou so much.
Raised floating print mount, that's what I love. Let the print become the object it is.
One of the best guides to mounting prints! I think you covered pretty much everything.
Thank you for the information on mounting Deckle edge!
Thank you for your generous videos. I'm a long time photographer but just getting into self mounting.
Excellent guide, best explanation on all four processes.
Where can I find that roll of drymount tissue that you used in your demonstration? I'd prefer that to the precut sheets. :)
Great video! Thank you. How to mount photos on a curly baryta paper?
Another great well explained viideo.
0:08 My first time in your channel. I laughed out loud!
Thank for sharing this information, I've learned so much from just one video.
Is there a method of dry mounting without a press? I would love to introduce this method where I work but space is very limited.
A clothes iron and practice
Great tutorial! Can you glue the mat window onto the mounting board with dry mounting tissue? I am dry mounting and I want my mat to adhere permanently.
I believe you can remove a dry mount by reheating. But don't take my word for it. Good presentation!
It depends on the tissue used, some are made to be removable and others are not
Thank you this was great.
I hope one day to be able to afford (or maybe justify the price) of one of those presses myself.
While the printing presses from Seal are probably phantasticly built and perfect for the job, I also cannot justify the cost. So I bought a T-shirt press. You can get one for something between 150$ and 250$ depending on the size.
They usually come with a silicone matte, which I leave in. I put two matte boards on top of the silicone matte and put my print between the two boards. My experience with these things is, that they work perfectly well. You might ruin a print or two in the beginning, until you have adjusted the pressure, so take some cheap paper for some test runs. After that: No problems at all.
Really enjoyed this!
very nice print! 8-) thank you for the guide!
Corners it is! Dry mounting seems like such a ball ache
Here's a hint for people wanting to get started in Dry Mounting:
Hopefully, you have been convinced by the flatness of this mount - far superior to all of the other methods presented - and you should be equally persuaded by its permanence; You will not be getting calls from everyone you sold a print to six months ago, complaininmg that it has slipped out of position, or fallen completely out of the mat.....
The TIP : You do not have to buy into a $2,000 press from Seal or other traditional manufacturers to do this. The T-Shirt printing industry has made available a vast palette of machines for t-shirt printing which operate under exactly the same range of temperatures, time, and clamping pressure, and of course are fully adjustable for all of these parameters. These machines are available at a small fraction of the extortionary cost of traditional dry-mount presses, and they are functionallly identical! I have tried these, and can report they perform admirably for dry-mounting photos. You do have to buy dry-mount tissue, of course, and it is a bit more involved than the other methods, but it remains by far the flattest, most permanent and most prestigious method for mounting photos.
You can use a clothes iron, it works fine for me up to 8x10.
excelente, la mejor guia, que he visto, es posible que pubiques los link de los elementos, gracias
Good idea!!!
Would you also do this with a large print?
I’ve done this with prints as large as 20x24 inches
Just discovered your channel, now subscribed. I’m a B&W photographer from the 70s and 80s and I always dry mounted my prints. I’d like to continue to dry mount my B&W prints. I have totally move to digital photography and I’m getting mixed advice on inkjet prints. Can I carefully dry mount inkjet prints? If so is there a different way to dry mount color and B&W? What are your recommendations? Thanks.
For inkjet I would use a low temperature mounting tissue. I don’t know what the long term effects are from high heat on the inks/pigments
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you for a such a prompt reply! Maybe I’ll try 180-185 F. I’ll have duplicates so I’ll test it out. Thanks, Gary
May I ask, do mountings for competitions require glass?
Every competition is different, read through the guidelines and they will state what they require
The advice to read the competition requirements is perfect because the answer is usually the opposite of what you’re asking: If you are in a competition that requires framing and glazing, there is a high chance that they will tell you that glass is *prohibited*.
Many places that show art consider glass to be a dangerous liability, if the print falls off the wall and the glass breaks in front of somebody. If you are shipping the work to a competition, many forbid glass in case it breaks in transit, which could also damage the print. For large prints, glass is heavy, and more expensive to ship and protect for shipment.
For safety and weight reasons, a competition that requires you to frame a print will probably recommend plexiglas/acrylic glazing.
Just looked up how much such a dry mount press does cost. I think I stick to t-size tape.
I had to get mine second hand
where can I find mats for Square photos ?
I cut mine from full sheets I get from Hobby Lobby
The Naked Photographer Thanks !
I loved everything of the dry mount, but my OCD won't let me do it because it is permanent... and I keep thinking about future "what ifs" that may never happen.... but what if they happen? Why am I like this?
Ohhhh you are so pretty! Almost want to subscribe in case you finally decide to expose urself lol ;)
On a more serious note, method one is apparently a no-no. You never stick your photograph to the top mat, but instead always to the backing board. You will avoid future problems like buckling etc..
I have seen the T hinge done in method 2 in a more straightforward manner, just the way you write T. So after you stick a vertical tape on the back of your art, you use a horizontal one on top of it to glue it to the back.
As for dry mounting I am still confused whether to go with that or not, as it's not a conservation accepted practice. I like the idea its super flat, but would it peel off at some point in the future or is it indefinitely adhered flat??
Taping the print to the font mat or back doesn’t matter if the print buckles. T hinges can be applied either way, but I chose to show a more decorative method for the display reasons mentioned in the video. Some dry mount tissues are removable and others aren’t. As for conservationists, they will complain regardless of how a print is mounted or taped.
Out of the first 3 methods, which do you recommend? :)
What sort of tape did you use to attach the window to the piece of mount board?
Self adhesive acid free linen tape
Thank you that is helpful
Hi there. I have this problem that i dont quit understand soi hope you can help :) until now ive been shoonting 6x6 square and there is no problem buying rhe passpartout and frame because there is no cutting of the image. I can put right in . So now ive started shooting 6x4.5 , retangular ( i know you know that that 6x4.5 is retangular 😀) anyway now when i do a print i have to go on compromise cutting the image if i want to fit it in a standard passoartout/frame. Now i dont like cutting off any of my image because i seldom leave any unwantes space when i photograph. So if i want to keep the image as it is i have to buy a mote expensive frame made in special meassures. Eks i often want to do a print size 50x40 cm because it fits nicely in a standard frame but then i have to cut the image on the baseboard and often somebodys feets or a head or something important on a building is cut away. So my question is : is there a workaround to do the ratio so a 6x4.5 or a 35 mm image is kept as it is and to fit into a standard ratio frame as a eks 40x50 or a 30x40, 20x30.. and so on. ( maybe a stupid question but i dont really understand this 😀) regards jesper
If you cannot purchase a mat with the correct image opening then you must cut your own.
@@TheNakedPhotographer hi and thaks for taking your time.. whats a mat? Mat paper ??
A mat, or matte, is the thick white board with the window cut out that separates the print from the glass.
@@TheNakedPhotographer ahh..i dindnt think of that. I will have a look into that. :-) thanks .
Just as inconveniently permanent as dry mount, but messier and much more work to produce, there's also wet mount. Not for art prints, but for permanent displays (on a wall, for instance). I've seen it done (on video), but we can hope it's now mercifully extinct. Not many folks make wall-size prints any more that would be suitable for this technique.
Not watching this nonsense. Probably the next time you will expose yourself....