Thank you, my goal is always just to be as clear as possible to people and really show all the thought so they can take whatever works for them and integrate it into their own style, after all, what I am doing is no more "correct" than a hundred other ways. :)
I'm getting an airbrush soon, and planning to do my Leviathan marines as Imperial Fists, so thanks for showing the various options with undertones. Originally I was going to do a magenta--->pink--->yellow (Imperial Fists yellow contrast paint), but i think ill try play around with the undertones a bit
Halfway through watching the video and I can sense that what I learn here can probably be applied to my conundrum with my orange colors in shadow areas looking very odd. Thanks Vince!
Great deep dive on how to paint yellow, thanks...not enough to make me switch from Blood Angels to Imperial Fists - but A for effort! BTW excellent tip on using contrast medium as a general thinner - it works really well for putting down smooth base coats. Quality video as always, keep em coming!
Wow! That's awesome! First I was hesitant to watch because I'm not interested in Imperial Fist. But what a great video about yellow! And it always amazes me how wet your paint is but nothing runs into the recesses. That's a lot of paint and brush control.
I am looking forward to using this on my Cygnar army that I am painting yellow, ive done the yellow with the Inyanden Yellow you used but with brush. Looking forward to using my airbrush for it now. Thanks Vince!
@@VinceVenturella I'm going to stop gushing and actually ask a question. How would you modify this process if you wanted to paint a Howling Griffin chapter, which is checkered yellow/red? Would you get to the end of the process and glaze the red parts using a red ink/ contrast paint over the yellow, or would you get half way through the process and treat each colour separately?
Hey Vince, yesterday evening I actually figured out Payne's Grey ink through the airbrush. I was painting a Space Wolf, and used the Payne's Grey to blend the harsher highlights back into the mid tone. I'm really happy with the result, I'm going to use the same recipe on the Wolf Lord from the old Prospero box.
Amazing as always. I don’t know if it was the lighting or camera but it looked like with all the yellow being sprayed it turned the blue tac holding the backpack to the green of green stuff. Just goes to show how transparent yellow is.
Loving this! This video, as well as couple of others you did, totally turned me onto inks for painting yellow. Now it would be great if you did a similar videos on how to paint Ironjawz (maybe Gordrakk himself?). I know you like them, from your podcast about their new battletome :)
Absolutely loved this video, thank you so much! Would you approach roughly this same workflow when using other colors? Is there any color you would deviate from this workflow with? Thanks! Can’t wait to watch the Artist Interviews and the Monthly review video
Depends on the color, yellow and orange would be much the same. REd would be very similar. Some of the colder colors might be a little more simple, Yellow is just so transparent, you have to be careful and work in slow layers.
Beautifully done tutorial Vince. I would like to make a suggestion for the next video or upcoming video. I'm struggling to come up with a good vibrant Salamanders green for their power armor. Could you show a tutorial on how to get a good smooth Salamanders green? Thank you
fantastic video. Many thanks. I hope you can continue showing us your work on that imperial fist, esp when it comes to the edge highlight. Do you stop your yellow there, or do you edge highlight some more after that? My issue is that edge highlighting with dorn's yellow or an equivalent looks pretty chalky.
Sadly this was the only video I created for this guy, but basically, I just added in a little more ivory into the mix for the edge highlights. I use Pro Acryl's ivory mixed into my existing yellows and it's a nice creamy color (I always use a little flow improver for edge highlighting, it makes your life much easier).
Nice video, thanks for sharing. I would suggest that you add the list of paints used in the video description, it would really be useful for people who don't have much time.
I really like the look of Imperial Fists in yellow - especially on vehicles. Chapter Master Valrak has a great vibrant recipe that uses the discontinued Lamenters Yellow Glaze by Citadel. He now has a display stand full of unopened bottles is a glass case in the background of all his videos!
Thanks Vince! I know these longer format videos take more effort, but I do appreciate them when you have the time. I tend to watch them over a few sittings, going back and forth to make sure I get all of the tips. This one was especially useful to me, as I like to bounce between the hairy brush and the airy brush quite fluidly. Do you feel that, adding multiple layers of dark, then warm, then dark, then warm, gives a better result, than just hitting the colour you want first time? I know it's important with flesh tones to give a very complex result, but do you find it useful on armour that was painted in world a solid colour? I'm playing more with oils now, I like how they work and how they blend. Is there a reason you tend to use acrylics on your competition pieces? Do acrylics give you something that is difficult with oils? Is it purely becuase oils are so slow? For example, when you pannel lined with paynes grey, I was thinking I would use an oil wash for that. I think I'd also like to expermint with enamels for filters through the airbrush, because they are easier to undo. I'm just interested to hear your thoughts on this. Cheers as always!
Several questions there. 1) I just have more control and familiarity with my acrylics. They are just generally easier for myself at this scale. 2) Yes, each back and forth helps to smooth everything out and the layers of semi-transparent paint add to visual confusion and variation even if not immediately apparent to the eye. 3) I don't like OIl washes over something like yellow, especially for competition, as the oil wash will always have *some* effect, event when wiped away and I want precise control of where paint is being applied.
I gotta say, almost right to the end I thought he was going way too dark. I was worried it was going to appear more brown than yellow, or I would have had I not already been instilled with the most sincere of faith that Vince's work would come out very near perfect in the end. It seems counter-intuitive that focusing on shadows brings out the highlights more but I guess thats why contrast is so important in miniature painting.
Amazing tutorial! I am assembling the materials to start an Imperial Fists Army. The new Warhammer Imperium subscription (US) will provide the miniatures! Vince, do you have any images of this miniature finished? I am curious as to how you handled the Aquilla and Company markings.
Did you by the way have a video about mid varnishing mini ? Like after here lets say you would finish the yellow & varnish the mini. What are the benifets of that & how can it be used to fix mistakes? Cant remember what video I watched where you said you did this process on keeper of secrets, but it would be fun to see video about that aswell!
I have this video here about other uses for varnish - ua-cam.com/video/e6Ww5iAP250/v-deo.html This video I talk about it with subassemblies and gap filling - ua-cam.com/video/DXg1P7wgj-M/v-deo.html As to varnishing mid-stream, yes, I do it all the time. It's just varnishing the mini, nothing special, just a coat of varnish and then continue painting. :)
I'm very new to airbrush painting and have a question about the varnish you use. Is there any additional steps to cleaning out the airbrush when you use it to varnish? I'm a little worried about trying it and totally clogging up my brush. Excellent tutorial as always and the end result is spectacular.
Nope, same exact steps. As long as you are cleaning your airbrush like you see me do here, and don't let it sit there, there is no different between varnish and paint in your airbrush.
1:03:40 a longer video about how you did the base and what where your thoughts when building it would have been very interesting to see! Like for example that you used the horns from the dead guys on the base to point at him etc.
This is great! Question, could you also do this using metallic silvers and the contrast yellow? Or would the sigismund yellow (clear) be better? Also, would you shade before or after laying down the yellow? Like when you showed how to airbrush silvers. I’m liking a orange/brown tint to the shading of the finished yellow
Well, steel/Silver has a true color of grey, and often has a little blue mixed in, so it's generally going to read strangely if you went over metallic. That being said, you could do the silver, shade it with purple, do a very light filter (very, very light) of sepia and then bring the yellow over top and theoretically that would work.
Great video as usual Vince! One question though: I am considering using a similar technique painting some bone armour (Deathwing style). Would a red/purple/brownish undercoat like you use here (after the black primer) suit that, or is it better to use a dark green-ish color?
I think honestly you could do either, it would be a question of the exact tones you wanted. both could certainly work, but one will feel warmer (the first), one will feel colder (the latter). Hope that helps.
I have a technical question: when, in these videos, you 'add a drop of Flow-Aid' to, say, your wet palette, are you adding a drop of straight Flow-Aid or your 10:1 water:Flow-Aid mix?
I'm working on an orc model and I have a couple questions to see about doing something with him. Big things I want to try to figure out how to do a star across his face that intersects his eye. I want to make a Milky eyeball like a dead eyeball what that is obviously that destroyed in the sword cut. And I want to give him bruising and minor scars for the rest of his body as this is an orc that has been in battle that is a Savage orc. For the purposes of this model I do a darker Orcs get as opposed be more bright and cartoony skin
Well, for the scar, you can just paint it, (I assume you meant scar not Star as you typed), the eye, just make the black dot, then glaze over it with grey (in other words, do exactly what the cataract would do in reality, work in the same order). As to how to paint scars and such, I cover it in this video - ua-cam.com/video/5h1dMx2ZDvg/v-deo.html You will want to ratchet up the pink and brightness if he has dark skin, or go dark bruises if he has light skin, contrast is the key.
Question if i where to paint a white ceramics/porcelain face would that just be the normal way of painting a face and doing it with a white color aka start with maybe a silver grey going up to ivory and then white and then use a game color glacier blue for the shadows and perhaps use a sombre grey for the deep shadows?
When you say playing with the undershade and zenithal highlights, do you have any tips for what to try out? Like could I go nuts and try using some blues up to nearly white and then hit it with yellow? Or just try mixing in a bit of warmer or cooler color to change the tone?
So the answer is yes of course, you can go nuts, after all it;s your work. :) - That being said, some color theory will help here. So for example, in the use case you give, you would get green (you have a blue undercoat and you are putting yellow over the top, so you will get a sort of sickly green into cold yellow transition). But yes, playing with those undershades, how intense, and what you put over the top can yield a bunch of different interesting results, just think about how your colors will interact (or just experiment and you will see fast enough). :)
I'd like to see your attempt on a Legion of the Damned Space Marine. I've got the 500th store LT and planning on painting him in their scheme. I'm thinking dark blue and dark grey tones, as pure black is too boring. Also the flames wil be somewhere in the blue or green range. Not quite sure yet.
Those are the flaming head guys right? I will admit my non-familiarity with them, but I can add it to the list. Sam Lenz did a very awesome version you may want to check out.
Hey Vince, Great video! Nice to see all the tips packed in and see some of your approach to handling really transparent colors. Certainly worth another viewing or more with how much you managed to pack in. Seems like I keep hearing the; using varnish as a “save point” phrase over and over. I don’t think anyone I’ve seen has actually gone over how to use it as a save point. Just hearing the phrase thoughts like; varnish it and you can plop it in some cleaner to get back to the save point come to mind. Is it primarily to not accidentally rub off a thin layer of paint? Or is there more to it? For the way you were saying you’re going to repeat it’s a good idea to do it is there a hobby cheating for all the ways it could get used?
The varnish means two things. 1) those thin layers are protected and 2) when I am painting later and get a swipe of paint somewhere i didn't want, I can quickly overload a brush with water and scrape that paint away, and I won't damage anything I've already done. Hope that helps.
Gonna Start the first tactical squad for my heresy era fists like this today. I will stop after the airbrushing and just edge highlight the armour then. For hqs and elites I will do the whole process. I wanted to learn that anyways. How would I adapt this to tanks? Lighter at the top and darker at the bottom with a slight Touch of the shadow colour? Rhinos especially are pretty hard to shade I find, as they are basicly boxes.
Awesome, perfect for the HH era fists. As to the vehicles, you have a choice, and it doesn't matter, you could do any, none are "more" correct. 1) Shade toward the top of the panel, light toward the bottom. 2) Panel Modulation (Light in the middle of the panels) 3) Light toward the top of the panel, dark (and dirt) toward the bottom. If you look around, you'll see variations on all three. I have a video on Panel Modulation. (ua-cam.com/video/2tmujLvovEo/v-deo.html) you can watch that for some ideas. Hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella well so far for that. I didnt have pro acryl mahagony, so I used the darkest brown I had for preshading, vgc charred brown. Over which the Iyanden yellow did not Cover at all. Neither did the daler rowney Ink I have. So as a rescue measure I went for a complete Coat of averland sunset, which annihilated any and all preshading I had. I think as a salvage paintjob I will highlight this with scale colour moon yellow now, followed by moon yellow + an off white for the hifhest highlight and then glaze with a daler rowney+Iyanden Filter later. For the next badge I'll use terracotta or dark fleshtone as the shade colour. For your Filter layer, did you redice psi even more? I am currently at 20 and felt like ink and Iyanden were difficult to spray. I think I might fo down to 15 for those
Your imperial fist yellow looks fantastic. If you don't mind me asking what psi did you use, and did you do anyhting to the iyanden yellow before putting it in your airbrush? Thank you
Thank you, I generally shoot at 18PSI, i always thin everything (my personal mix of 80/20 - Thinner/Flow Improver) - I do thin the Iyanden Yellow, generally 2-1, thinner to Contrast at minimum.
Right when my first few 30k fists are in the Mail. Brilliant Timing! At what PSI do you spray the Inks? I get a lot of spidering when thinning it down, but I fear that I am way too High with 30psi
Yeah, so my general PSI is 18 PSI and I generally don't change it, but keep in mind, the high line from Iwata I am using here has a brush based air flow control, so I can "lower" the air flow without changing the PSI, one of the reasons I love the airbrush.
Okay cool, thank you. I had been getting the feeling I was thinning too much and was thinking that that is rather unlikely. I am looking forward to doing the first test Model in the coming week/days
Looks great! Could I use this method for black armor? Sure I would have to switch the lighter yellows for gray and white, but I could do a zenital like here and then use black templar contrast right? Thank you!
Black is a little different honestly, It's less back and forth and more bringing up through some careful layers. I have a detailed black armor video planned.
Roughly what psi were you working at that close? I know some variance will apply but I am new to airbrushing and trying to understand how some techniques work with the pressure.
I was working at 18PSI, but keep in mind, my airbrush has an airflow regulator on the tip to turn down the effective PSI without making an adjustment, if you don't have that, maybe like 8-10 PSI
Could you not have done this like 4 days ago? I just finished my first IF marine and now you put out the hobby cheating on it lol. Good shit either way though. Thanks for these, they help a lot.
With the Salamnder Chapter supplement coming soon, can we get this same video but for Salamander green? I feel that Salamanders generally feel cartoony because of the color scheme. How to make Salamanders badasses instead of cartoons!
Just normal old water, I haven't seen any evidence the water matters that much, but I have pretty clean and filtered water, so that could be part of it. Local water can certainly vary greatly in mineral content.
What about instead of using Payne's Grey ink for panel lining, mix up a black/purple ink for an even higher contrast with the yellow armor? I suspect it will be very difficult to see the difference with the naked eye, but our brain might pick the slight increase in contrast nonetheless.
How would you approach a color combination of two contrasting colors? My Craftworld uses primarily a medium grew with a bright orange for certain panels and helmets/breastplate. I was thinking of using the traditional zenithal but the orange spots on the Guardians are very small and worry about the airbrush overspraying onto the grey and how the orange layers on grey.
It tough, but one thing you can do is zenithal the whole thing. Then apply a thin glaze of something like a sepia color over the panels that are meant to be orange. That will tint everything the appropriate undertone and then you should be able to glaze the orange over the top.
My question would be: If I take this approach of painting a space marine or let's say a custodes which colours would I take for a NMM gold? Yellow and NMM gold is so close that's why my confusion. Great work Vince. I could watch even 3 hours long vids. Thumbs up!
It would be fairly different actually. it would need more darker areas, going into deeper browns, it would need to come all the way up to near white, and it would need to shift into the ochre spectrum and away from the brighter yellow.
Hi Vince could you recommend an alternative to stynlrez bone primer? Can't seem to find a provider and Vallejo Skelton bone primer seems a bit too sandy in comparison.
Nice. Though I don't have anything that'll be that color on my hobby horizon... Out of curiousity, is painting a pointing up ummm... pointy gem going to follow the brightest at the bottom idea?
Yep, straight up gems will pretty much do just that. That being said, it's still good to add some angularity to the light, the sun is only truly right above for 1 minute a day. :)
I really like the tone and it covers with exactly the transparency I wanted, basically, I could do it with the inks, but this just had the right tone and coverage for my goals here.
@@VinceVenturella That makes sense. The Iyanden yellow does seem to have a great warmth that pairs well with the Ochre and Rust in your midtones and shadows. Thanks for taking the time to reply!
You mentioned using different colors for zenithal priming lighter colors. I might have missed it, but what would you use for a red? Was the base on this mini a brown?
Where can I get a good white ink? I went to my hobby shop and didn’t find any and went to michaels and the white inks they had where basically clear (something called Chinese white).
Thank you for sharing this video. I wish that the camera setup was adjusted to keep the subject in the frame 100% of the time. There were far too many times where the subject was completely out of frame, or the specific area of the subject that you were working on that wasn't in the frame. :( Also, at the end of the video, it would be great to see the completed model where all of the techniques you talked through and applied can be seen as a finished product.
Sorry about the frame, it's always tough when working this close and needing to turn things around like crazy in the airbrush book, but I get it. That being said, I do have a picture at the end of the finished model - ua-cam.com/video/8J29Z_sjzs4/v-deo.html
@@VinceVenturella haha thanks, yeah I tried it with ink after my failed green attempt (from the other comment section, thanks for your input there too) and it definitely behaved very similar
@@VinceVenturella Seriously. Keep up the great work! Your videos propelled me off of my plateau i was hitting in my painting and i'm already over 20 years in this hobby.
I've done this for two squads and an hq for my heresy fists now. So far I have only ever done the airbrushing Part and not went deeper on glazing the armour which I really should. So here is my two problems: - when I thin the air colours and the contrast the paint gets on the model and stays wet, which really isnt what we want I guess. I can change that by using a bigger needle size or going farther away from the model. I have increased and lowered pressure a lot. Right now I am rather High on pressure and it seems to work better. - iyanden yellow doesnt Cover over the dark brown parts. So I guess, judging from how your Model looks, the model should be mainly off white/greyish with the rust/Red brown only ever shimmering through?
So it can sometimes take several thin coats, but yes, the other thing you can do is also being the shadow up with something like light rust, then build into the yellow. As to drying, I actually find a lower PSI and less paint, but applied over a few coats is the way to go, but it's always tricky with yellow, because it's so very transparent.
@@VinceVenturella the Main Problem I see with the more liquid paint Applikation is that it sometimes accumulates and thus creates spots of Orange where I dont want them. I can fix that with colours and by brush later (the new instar alpha line is great here) but it's a bit annoying. Do you recon that maybe using a bigger needle size might help with a more dry Applikation? I have to train myself to use the least amount of paint possible anyhow.
Much the same, just blow out everything to the panels and panel modulation and I would do less with the brush (barring edge and spot highlights) and much more with just the airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella I'll have to check that out. Something is off with my sta-wet one. There is plenty of water in it but my paint is still getting tacky while sitting there. It's almost like the paper is absorbing enough water now even though I've used the same roll of parchment paper before. Might try a new roll as I'm down to the end of the current roll so maybe it's waxy or something.
... Now i really need to get a hold of an airbrush... maybe then the amount of unpainted miniatures i have will finally decrease.... a man can dream can´t he :P
No white ink for the highlights? HERETIC!!! Lol. *Edit* I didn't have the patience to wait until 24:58 when I wrote that. Nor did I think about layering and using filters over the edges where the white meets the yellow. Whoops. You got me man!
Your 'Imperial fist yellow' and 'table vs display quality' videos both feature the same model as 'cover'... It gets confusing sometimes to find it ;) Just fyi
@@VinceVenturella On that note, it speaks of high quality if the only comment is such a complaint 😆 I think I watched it 5 times by now each time learning something else.
I don’t mind it all when you repeat yourself Vince, it’s useful to know what parts you think are super important
Thank you sir, I know this has lots of back and forth and back and forth, layer after layer after layer. :)
That's how I learn best, personally.
Lol, I had a teacher who used to say that. “I’m not repeating myself unintentionally.” Which meant write that shit down. It’ll be on the test.
You Sir are insane. Fantastic work. I love how you explain what you are doing and why, without being condescending.
Thank you, my goal is always just to be as clear as possible to people and really show all the thought so they can take whatever works for them and integrate it into their own style, after all, what I am doing is no more "correct" than a hundred other ways. :)
I'm getting an airbrush soon, and planning to do my Leviathan marines as Imperial Fists, so thanks for showing the various options with undertones. Originally I was going to do a magenta--->pink--->yellow (Imperial Fists yellow contrast paint), but i think ill try play around with the undertones a bit
Thank you for this! I can't wait to try this out on my Knights! This looks pretty much exactly what I am going for.
Excellent, happy to help as always.
Really been looking forward to this video. Thanks Vince 👍
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Single best imperial fist video, amazing blend of airbrush and brush work.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Halfway through watching the video and I can sense that what I learn here can probably be applied to my conundrum with my orange colors in shadow areas looking very odd. Thanks Vince!
You are correct, orange is very much the same experience.
Great deep dive on how to paint yellow, thanks...not enough to make me switch from Blood Angels to Imperial Fists - but A for effort!
BTW excellent tip on using contrast medium as a general thinner - it works really well for putting down smooth base coats.
Quality video as always, keep em coming!
Thank you sir, happy to help as always.
Wow! That's awesome!
First I was hesitant to watch because I'm not interested in Imperial Fist. But what a great video about yellow!
And it always amazes me how wet your paint is but nothing runs into the recesses. That's a lot of paint and brush control.
A lot of paint get's wicked off, the key is always the wicking onto the paper towel and/or the back of your thumb.
I am looking forward to using this on my Cygnar army that I am painting yellow, ive done the yellow with the Inyanden Yellow you used but with brush. Looking forward to using my airbrush for it now. Thanks Vince!
Excellent, it's just a wonderful way to get a good rich yellow.
Fantastic advice! Got me through day 1 of Inktober while I drew wishing I could paint.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Holy cow dude that model looks fantastic. Nice work
Thanks!
Excellent video as usual! I always learn something, and get a good laugh (Red Stripe - it’s beer!)
Thank you and thanks for enjoying my silly asides that are almost jokes. :)
decided on imperial fists for new Horus Heresy, basically no experience working with yellow, this is perfect thank you.
Awesome!
Oh god yes!!!!! Finally!!!!! I've been checking UA-cam every 20 minutes since you posted on Facebook!! Can't wait to watch it. :D
Excellent, happy to help as always. This is a long one, but it has several jumping off points. :)
@@VinceVenturella incredible!
@@VinceVenturella I'm going to stop gushing and actually ask a question. How would you modify this process if you wanted to paint a Howling Griffin chapter, which is checkered yellow/red?
Would you get to the end of the process and glaze the red parts using a red ink/ contrast paint over the yellow, or would you get half way through the process and treat each colour separately?
Thanks, Vince! Good work.
Thank you sir, happy to help as always.
Hey Vince, yesterday evening I actually figured out Payne's Grey ink through the airbrush. I was painting a Space Wolf, and used the Payne's Grey to blend the harsher highlights back into the mid tone. I'm really happy with the result, I'm going to use the same recipe on the Wolf Lord from the old Prospero box.
Excellent, yeah, it's truly wonderful through the airbrush.
I’m not painting yellow at the moment- but this is a great tutorial
Thanks so much. Super helpful
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Very useful Vince. I am about to paint some Lamenters shortly.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Amazing as always. I don’t know if it was the lighting or camera but it looked like with all the yellow being sprayed it turned the blue tac holding the backpack to the green of green stuff. Just goes to show how transparent yellow is.
I'm sure it did, that's funny, it's just such a transparent color.
As always, amazing
Thank you, happy to help as always.
Loving this! This video, as well as couple of others you did, totally turned me onto inks for painting yellow.
Now it would be great if you did a similar videos on how to paint Ironjawz (maybe Gordrakk himself?). I know you like them, from your podcast about their new battletome :)
I just happen to have a whole bunch of Ironjawz videos in the playlist to take you through the process - ua-cam.com/video/QcnAyDGUA1E/v-deo.html
I love your videos. You are like the Bob Ross of minis.
That is the highest possible compliment.
Absolutely loved this video, thank you so much! Would you approach roughly this same workflow when using other colors? Is there any color you would deviate from this workflow with?
Thanks! Can’t wait to watch the Artist Interviews and the Monthly review video
Depends on the color, yellow and orange would be much the same. REd would be very similar. Some of the colder colors might be a little more simple, Yellow is just so transparent, you have to be careful and work in slow layers.
Awesome, thanks!
Beautifully done tutorial Vince. I would like to make a suggestion for the next video or upcoming video. I'm struggling to come up with a good vibrant Salamanders green for their power armor. Could you show a tutorial on how to get a good smooth Salamanders green? Thank you
Yep, I've had a few requests for Salamanders green. I will play with some recipes and see what I can come up with a future video.
So beautiful
Excellent explanations
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Great video Vince
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
fantastic video. Many thanks. I hope you can continue showing us your work on that imperial fist, esp when it comes to the edge highlight. Do you stop your yellow there, or do you edge highlight some more after that? My issue is that edge highlighting with dorn's yellow or an equivalent looks pretty chalky.
Sadly this was the only video I created for this guy, but basically, I just added in a little more ivory into the mix for the edge highlights. I use Pro Acryl's ivory mixed into my existing yellows and it's a nice creamy color (I always use a little flow improver for edge highlighting, it makes your life much easier).
Nice video, thanks for sharing. I would suggest that you add the list of paints used in the video description, it would really be useful for people who don't have much time.
I will take that for the future, thank you and glad it was helpful.
Too bad that the miniature is so often not visible!
I really like the look of Imperial Fists in yellow - especially on vehicles. Chapter Master Valrak has a great vibrant recipe that uses the discontinued Lamenters Yellow Glaze by Citadel. He now has a display stand full of unopened bottles is a glass case in the background of all his videos!
Also I know you read comments Vince, so thanks for all you do!
Thanks, yeah, Yellow is just so much fun and when it's vibrant, it's so striking. :)
Thanks Vince! I know these longer format videos take more effort, but I do appreciate them when you have the time. I tend to watch them over a few sittings, going back and forth to make sure I get all of the tips. This one was especially useful to me, as I like to bounce between the hairy brush and the airy brush quite fluidly.
Do you feel that, adding multiple layers of dark, then warm, then dark, then warm, gives a better result, than just hitting the colour you want first time? I know it's important with flesh tones to give a very complex result, but do you find it useful on armour that was painted in world a solid colour?
I'm playing more with oils now, I like how they work and how they blend. Is there a reason you tend to use acrylics on your competition pieces? Do acrylics give you something that is difficult with oils? Is it purely becuase oils are so slow? For example, when you pannel lined with paynes grey, I was thinking I would use an oil wash for that. I think I'd also like to expermint with enamels for filters through the airbrush, because they are easier to undo. I'm just interested to hear your thoughts on this.
Cheers as always!
Several questions there.
1) I just have more control and familiarity with my acrylics. They are just generally easier for myself at this scale.
2) Yes, each back and forth helps to smooth everything out and the layers of semi-transparent paint add to visual confusion and variation even if not immediately apparent to the eye.
3) I don't like OIl washes over something like yellow, especially for competition, as the oil wash will always have *some* effect, event when wiped away and I want precise control of where paint is being applied.
I gotta say, almost right to the end I thought he was going way too dark. I was worried it was going to appear more brown than yellow, or I would have had I not already been instilled with the most sincere of faith that Vince's work would come out very near perfect in the end. It seems counter-intuitive that focusing on shadows brings out the highlights more but I guess thats why contrast is so important in miniature painting.
It all comes together at the end with most of my paint jobs. :)
Amazing tutorial!
I am assembling the materials to start an Imperial Fists Army.
The new Warhammer Imperium subscription (US) will provide the miniatures!
Vince, do you have any images of this miniature finished?
I am curious as to how you handled the Aquilla and Company markings.
Yep, I shared the finals out on my socials. :)
Did you by the way have a video about mid varnishing mini ? Like after here lets say you would finish the yellow & varnish the mini. What are the benifets of that & how can it be used to fix mistakes?
Cant remember what video I watched where you said you did this process on keeper of secrets, but it would be fun to see video about that aswell!
I have this video here about other uses for varnish - ua-cam.com/video/e6Ww5iAP250/v-deo.html
This video I talk about it with subassemblies and gap filling - ua-cam.com/video/DXg1P7wgj-M/v-deo.html
As to varnishing mid-stream, yes, I do it all the time. It's just varnishing the mini, nothing special, just a coat of varnish and then continue painting. :)
I'm very new to airbrush painting and have a question about the varnish you use. Is there any additional steps to cleaning out the airbrush when you use it to varnish?
I'm a little worried about trying it and totally clogging up my brush.
Excellent tutorial as always and the end result is spectacular.
Nope, same exact steps. As long as you are cleaning your airbrush like you see me do here, and don't let it sit there, there is no different between varnish and paint in your airbrush.
1:03:40 a longer video about how you did the base and what where your thoughts when building it would have been very interesting to see! Like for example that you used the horns from the dead guys on the base to point at him etc.
Diseased wasteland would make a fun project for a video.
This is great! Question, could you also do this using metallic silvers and the contrast yellow? Or would the sigismund yellow (clear) be better? Also, would you shade before or after laying down the yellow? Like when you showed how to airbrush silvers. I’m liking a orange/brown tint to the shading of the finished yellow
Well, steel/Silver has a true color of grey, and often has a little blue mixed in, so it's generally going to read strangely if you went over metallic. That being said, you could do the silver, shade it with purple, do a very light filter (very, very light) of sepia and then bring the yellow over top and theoretically that would work.
Vince Venturella going to give that a try! Thanx!
Great video as usual Vince! One question though: I am considering using a similar technique painting some bone armour (Deathwing style). Would a red/purple/brownish undercoat like you use here (after the black primer) suit that, or is it better to use a dark green-ish color?
I think honestly you could do either, it would be a question of the exact tones you wanted. both could certainly work, but one will feel warmer (the first), one will feel colder (the latter). Hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella It does, thank you very much!
I have a technical question: when, in these videos, you 'add a drop of Flow-Aid' to, say, your wet palette, are you adding a drop of straight Flow-Aid or your 10:1 water:Flow-Aid mix?
I use Warcolours Flo-Aid in mmost cases, which is pre-mixed and I really like the mix.
I'm working on an orc model and I have a couple questions to see about doing something with him.
Big things I want to try to figure out how to do a star across his face that intersects his eye. I want to make a Milky eyeball like a dead eyeball what that is obviously that destroyed in the sword cut. And I want to give him bruising and minor scars for the rest of his body as this is an orc that has been in battle that is a Savage orc. For the purposes of this model I do a darker Orcs get as opposed be more bright and cartoony skin
Well, for the scar, you can just paint it, (I assume you meant scar not Star as you typed), the eye, just make the black dot, then glaze over it with grey (in other words, do exactly what the cataract would do in reality, work in the same order).
As to how to paint scars and such, I cover it in this video - ua-cam.com/video/5h1dMx2ZDvg/v-deo.html
You will want to ratchet up the pink and brightness if he has dark skin, or go dark bruises if he has light skin, contrast is the key.
Question if i where to paint a white ceramics/porcelain
face would that just be the normal way of painting a face and doing it with a white color aka start with maybe a silver grey going up to ivory and then white and then use a game color glacier blue for the shadows and perhaps use a sombre grey for the deep shadows?
Sounds about right, a little bit of blue in there for color and leaning through the Grey/blue/white spectrum.
When you say playing with the undershade and zenithal highlights, do you have any tips for what to try out? Like could I go nuts and try using some blues up to nearly white and then hit it with yellow? Or just try mixing in a bit of warmer or cooler color to change the tone?
So the answer is yes of course, you can go nuts, after all it;s your work. :) - That being said, some color theory will help here. So for example, in the use case you give, you would get green (you have a blue undercoat and you are putting yellow over the top, so you will get a sort of sickly green into cold yellow transition). But yes, playing with those undershades, how intense, and what you put over the top can yield a bunch of different interesting results, just think about how your colors will interact (or just experiment and you will see fast enough). :)
Great job on this one brother. If you are up to it would it be possible to paint up a space wolf in a nmm?
Are you asking about the space wolf color armor itself?
I'd like to see your attempt on a Legion of the Damned Space Marine. I've got the 500th store LT and planning on painting him in their scheme. I'm thinking dark blue and dark grey tones, as pure black is too boring. Also the flames wil be somewhere in the blue or green range. Not quite sure yet.
Those are the flaming head guys right? I will admit my non-familiarity with them, but I can add it to the list. Sam Lenz did a very awesome version you may want to check out.
@@VinceVenturella they entire body is engulfed in flames, but yes.
Hey Vince,
Great video! Nice to see all the tips packed in and see some of your approach to handling really transparent colors. Certainly worth another viewing or more with how much you managed to pack in.
Seems like I keep hearing the; using varnish as a “save point” phrase over and over. I don’t think anyone I’ve seen has actually gone over how to use it as a save point. Just hearing the phrase thoughts like; varnish it and you can plop it in some cleaner to get back to the save point come to mind.
Is it primarily to not accidentally rub off a thin layer of paint? Or is there more to it?
For the way you were saying you’re going to repeat it’s a good idea to do it is there a hobby cheating for all the ways it could get used?
The varnish means two things. 1) those thin layers are protected and 2) when I am painting later and get a swipe of paint somewhere i didn't want, I can quickly overload a brush with water and scrape that paint away, and I won't damage anything I've already done. Hope that helps.
Vince Venturella thanks! That helps clear things up.
Gonna Start the first tactical squad for my heresy era fists like this today. I will stop after the airbrushing and just edge highlight the armour then. For hqs and elites I will do the whole process. I wanted to learn that anyways.
How would I adapt this to tanks? Lighter at the top and darker at the bottom with a slight Touch of the shadow colour? Rhinos especially are pretty hard to shade I find, as they are basicly boxes.
Awesome, perfect for the HH era fists.
As to the vehicles, you have a choice, and it doesn't matter, you could do any, none are "more" correct.
1) Shade toward the top of the panel, light toward the bottom.
2) Panel Modulation (Light in the middle of the panels)
3) Light toward the top of the panel, dark (and dirt) toward the bottom.
If you look around, you'll see variations on all three. I have a video on Panel Modulation. (ua-cam.com/video/2tmujLvovEo/v-deo.html) you can watch that for some ideas. Hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella well so far for that. I didnt have pro acryl mahagony, so I used the darkest brown I had for preshading, vgc charred brown. Over which the Iyanden yellow did not Cover at all. Neither did the daler rowney Ink I have. So as a rescue measure I went for a complete Coat of averland sunset, which annihilated any and all preshading I had.
I think as a salvage paintjob I will highlight this with scale colour moon yellow now, followed by moon yellow + an off white for the hifhest highlight and then glaze with a daler rowney+Iyanden Filter later.
For the next badge I'll use terracotta or dark fleshtone as the shade colour.
For your Filter layer, did you redice psi even more? I am currently at 20 and felt like ink and Iyanden were difficult to spray. I think I might fo down to 15 for those
Your imperial fist yellow looks fantastic. If you don't mind me asking what psi did you use, and did you do anyhting to the iyanden yellow before putting it in your airbrush? Thank you
Thank you, I generally shoot at 18PSI, i always thin everything (my personal mix of 80/20 - Thinner/Flow Improver) - I do thin the Iyanden Yellow, generally 2-1, thinner to Contrast at minimum.
@@VinceVenturella thank you very much I can't wait to get my imperial fists painted up now.
I'd love to see one more like this if you still enjoy painting fists, but no airbrush and only with scalecolour, for no specific reason of course.
Well, there will always be more Imperial Fist content coming, but maybe not that specific. ;)
Right when my first few 30k fists are in the Mail. Brilliant Timing!
At what PSI do you spray the Inks? I get a lot of spidering when thinning it down, but I fear that I am way too High with 30psi
Im no Vince but when I spray inks I drop down to 15psi.
Yeah, so my general PSI is 18 PSI and I generally don't change it, but keep in mind, the high line from Iwata I am using here has a brush based air flow control, so I can "lower" the air flow without changing the PSI, one of the reasons I love the airbrush.
Okay cool, thank you. I had been getting the feeling I was thinning too much and was thinking that that is rather unlikely.
I am looking forward to doing the first test Model in the coming week/days
Looks great! Could I use this method for black armor? Sure I would have to switch the lighter yellows for gray and white, but I could do a zenital like here and then use black templar contrast right? Thank you!
Black is a little different honestly, It's less back and forth and more bringing up through some careful layers. I have a detailed black armor video planned.
Ok then I will wait. I want to paint my first Sororitas and I want her to look good! But with blue this method would be good right?
@@Critical677 Yep, following this kind of a pattern with blue would certainly work fine.
Roughly what psi were you working at that close? I know some variance will apply but I am new to airbrushing and trying to understand how some techniques work with the pressure.
I was working at 18PSI, but keep in mind, my airbrush has an airflow regulator on the tip to turn down the effective PSI without making an adjustment, if you don't have that, maybe like 8-10 PSI
Could you not have done this like 4 days ago? I just finished my first IF marine and now you put out the hobby cheating on it lol. Good shit either way though. Thanks for these, they help a lot.
Well, technically I finished the video a few weeks ago, but it went live today...Sorry about that. ;)
With the Salamnder Chapter supplement coming soon, can we get this same video but for Salamander green? I feel that Salamanders generally feel cartoony because of the color scheme. How to make Salamanders badasses instead of cartoons!
I'll add it to the list, sounds like a very fun idea.
Hi Vince! A quick confirmation: the water you clear the airbrush with, is it de-mineralized (vs normal tap water)?
Just normal old water, I haven't seen any evidence the water matters that much, but I have pretty clean and filtered water, so that could be part of it. Local water can certainly vary greatly in mineral content.
I imagine what's done here would apply much the same to painting Ironsunz armor?
You imagine correctly, you could follow the same steps for your yellow armored Boyz. :)
What about instead of using Payne's Grey ink for panel lining, mix up a black/purple ink for an even higher contrast with the yellow armor? I suspect it will be very difficult to see the difference with the naked eye, but our brain might pick the slight increase in contrast nonetheless.
Yep, that's a great idea.
How would you approach a color combination of two contrasting colors? My Craftworld uses primarily a medium grew with a bright orange for certain panels and helmets/breastplate. I was thinking of using the traditional zenithal but the orange spots on the Guardians are very small and worry about the airbrush overspraying onto the grey and how the orange layers on grey.
It tough, but one thing you can do is zenithal the whole thing. Then apply a thin glaze of something like a sepia color over the panels that are meant to be orange. That will tint everything the appropriate undertone and then you should be able to glaze the orange over the top.
@@VinceVenturella Any sort of Sepia glaze that you've found success with?
@@Joetime90 Honestly, a few applications of seraphim sepia shade would do it.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, and my Yme-Loc Craftworld does too.
My question would be: If I take this approach of painting a space marine or let's say a custodes which colours would I take for a NMM gold? Yellow and NMM gold is so close that's why my confusion. Great work Vince. I could watch even 3 hours long vids. Thumbs up!
It would be fairly different actually. it would need more darker areas, going into deeper browns, it would need to come all the way up to near white, and it would need to shift into the ochre spectrum and away from the brighter yellow.
@@VinceVenturella Thx Vince. I'll remember that for sure.
Hi Vince could you recommend an alternative to stynlrez bone primer? Can't seem to find a provider and Vallejo Skelton bone primer seems a bit too sandy in comparison.
Honestly, just use a bone paint. as long as you have a base primer, you're good, everything else can be paint.
Nice. Though I don't have anything that'll be that color on my hobby horizon...
Out of curiousity, is painting a pointing up ummm... pointy gem going to follow the brightest at the bottom idea?
Yep, straight up gems will pretty much do just that. That being said, it's still good to add some angularity to the light, the sun is only truly right above for 1 minute a day. :)
@@VinceVenturella It's a pretty small gem. I actually need to better do the light looking at this mini.
Vince, what draws you to using Contrast in this case over semi\transparent inks?
I really like the tone and it covers with exactly the transparency I wanted, basically, I could do it with the inks, but this just had the right tone and coverage for my goals here.
@@VinceVenturella That makes sense. The Iyanden yellow does seem to have a great warmth that pairs well with the Ochre and Rust in your midtones and shadows.
Thanks for taking the time to reply!
You mentioned using different colors for zenithal priming lighter colors. I might have missed it, but what would you use for a red? Was the base on this mini a brown?
Yep, for Red, I would do Dark Brown or Purple up to a warm ivory. Yes, this base was a light rust brown.
@@VinceVenturella thanks again, Vince!
Where can I get a good white ink? I went to my hobby shop and didn’t find any and went to michaels and the white inks they had where basically clear (something called Chinese white).
Amazon is your best bet, the Daler Rowney white ink is my go to.
Thank you for sharing this video. I wish that the camera setup was adjusted to keep the subject in the frame 100% of the time. There were far too many times where the subject was completely out of frame, or the specific area of the subject that you were working on that wasn't in the frame. :( Also, at the end of the video, it would be great to see the completed model where all of the techniques you talked through and applied can be seen as a finished product.
Sorry about the frame, it's always tough when working this close and needing to turn things around like crazy in the airbrush book, but I get it.
That being said, I do have a picture at the end of the finished model - ua-cam.com/video/8J29Z_sjzs4/v-deo.html
This is the hardest to follow "How to paint an Ultramarine" Hobby Cheating. I get lost at Imperial Fist...
Step 1 of painting Ultramarines: Realize the Imperial Fist color scheme is superior and switch.
Step 2: Complete.
;)
Vince Venturella 😂🤣😂🤣
I would love to have a video where you are doing an imperial fist without contrast paint (simply because I don't have any ^^)
Well, you could certainly replace that with any yellow ink, it would achieve much the same thing. :)
@@VinceVenturella haha thanks, yeah I tried it with ink after my failed green attempt (from the other comment section, thanks for your input there too) and it definitely behaved very similar
I got that Ghostbusters reference!
Glad someone got that one. :)
@@VinceVenturella Seriously. Keep up the great work! Your videos propelled me off of my plateau i was hitting in my painting and i'm already over 20 years in this hobby.
I've done this for two squads and an hq for my heresy fists now. So far I have only ever done the airbrushing Part and not went deeper on glazing the armour which I really should.
So here is my two problems:
- when I thin the air colours and the contrast the paint gets on the model and stays wet, which really isnt what we want I guess. I can change that by using a bigger needle size or going farther away from the model. I have increased and lowered pressure a lot. Right now I am rather High on pressure and it seems to work better.
- iyanden yellow doesnt Cover over the dark brown parts. So I guess, judging from how your Model looks, the model should be mainly off white/greyish with the rust/Red brown only ever shimmering through?
So it can sometimes take several thin coats, but yes, the other thing you can do is also being the shadow up with something like light rust, then build into the yellow. As to drying, I actually find a lower PSI and less paint, but applied over a few coats is the way to go, but it's always tricky with yellow, because it's so very transparent.
@@VinceVenturella the Main Problem I see with the more liquid paint Applikation is that it sometimes accumulates and thus creates spots of Orange where I dont want them. I can fix that with colours and by brush later (the new instar alpha line is great here) but it's a bit annoying.
Do you recon that maybe using a bigger needle size might help with a more dry Applikation? I have to train myself to use the least amount of paint possible anyhow.
Office Space reference at 21:45 for the win.
Always glad when people catch the references. :)
yess
Glad it was helpful. :)
How would this work on vehicles?
Much the same, just blow out everything to the panels and panel modulation and I would do less with the brush (barring edge and spot highlights) and much more with just the airbrush.
Hey man. Any way to put a captions for color in the corner
Not on the existing video, but I'll see what I can do in the future. :)
I notice you've swapped your wet pallette. What are you using?
The redgrass games wet palette XL, it's wonderful and I love it.
@@VinceVenturella I'll have to check that out. Something is off with my sta-wet one. There is plenty of water in it but my paint is still getting tacky while sitting there. It's almost like the paper is absorbing enough water now even though I've used the same roll of parchment paper before. Might try a new roll as I'm down to the end of the current roll so maybe it's waxy or something.
It's finally here !!!
It's been a long time coming for sure.
frame, vince frme! ;)
I know, there is a point in there where I was bad, but at the painting desk for most I think I was ok, (I mean ok like average). ;)
@@VinceVenturella put a tape cross in the area you film. Hold the mini over the cross. You'll stay inside the frame.
... Now i really need to get a hold of an airbrush... maybe then the amount of unpainted miniatures i have will finally decrease.... a man can dream can´t he :P
It's a wonderful investment, couldn't recommend it enough.
No white ink for the highlights? HERETIC!!! Lol.
*Edit*
I didn't have the patience to wait until 24:58 when I wrote that. Nor did I think about layering and using filters over the edges where the white meets the yellow. Whoops. You got me man!
It's all good. ;)
Your 'Imperial fist yellow' and 'table vs display quality' videos both feature the same model as 'cover'... It gets confusing sometimes to find it ;) Just fyi
Appreciated, I'll have to think on that. :)
@@VinceVenturella On that note, it speaks of high quality if the only comment is such a complaint 😆 I think I watched it 5 times by now each time learning something else.