You thanked me for my comment about cheap homemade forges, from Australia. I was really touched. In a world, especially on the internet, where craziness seems to have no shame, the knifemaking community seems so self-effacing and caring. We watch with bemusement and sometimes disbelieve from here...we ain't had a mass shooting since the mid-ninetees, and we ain't stormed our parliament. Over 90% have had their Covid shots. Since America is such an influence on our Australian lives, its good to see someone such as you chat about the artistry of making a knife. So, thank you.
I've really enjoyed the knife making community, we are a group of like minded individuals that tend to be uplifting and I try to bring people up not put them down. If you want to hang out with a great group of guys, you should join my facebook group, the "TRE Workshop" they are all about positivity and helping each other out.
I started with leaf spring and files but for sure you make a superior knife with known steel. There is also a better feel of knowing exactly whats in the knife you are selling.
Great video! Love Pop’s! I bought literally 16’ of 8670 ranging in size from 2” wide to 4” wide, for right at $100. I’ve made six knives with it so far including three 8-9” chef knives. I still have 11’ of steel left. Amazing stuff! And if you do pure stock removal. There’s no normalizing needed with 8670
I began to learn hammer skills working with mystery steel; often I discovered it was flawed after spending hours on a project. I've learned that there aren't any acceptable shortcuts, so I use known steel and a heat treating oven and the right quenching fluid for each steel. Now the only flaws I face are my own mistakes, not problems with the steel or HT. Good advice, sir!
I made (in Australia) a forge out of a backyard bbq dish, for AUS $20, with charcoal as the fuel and a hairdrier from a charity shop pushing air into the coals. 1080 steel online. Works fine.
I had a client a few weeks ago request that I make a knife out of a file he had been given. I refused. I told him that not all files are made the same and many are case hardened using underlying mild steel as the core. So be careful when using a file. I totally agree with leaf springs. I made a chopper for a build off a year or so ago but that was not for sale and was just one of the requirements of the competition. Other than that all my knives are made from known steel.
I've never heard of pops before, so thank you for that because once they have what I want in stocks, I'll definitely be getting some steel. Also, thanks for the link for fore bricks. That's much cheaper than when I bought mine and need some more. I really enjoy your videos. I'm glad I've found your channel. Great information.
Completely agree, steel prices are cheap compared to all the rest, handle material is pretty much as expensive. I started with a €35 belt grinder and belts from Aliexpress still use them for wood but for steel I upgraded not to long ago. I am lucky that I can heat treatment at a local blacksmith
I have a box of 22 farriers rasps I got from a retired farrier. I plan on using that all up while learning. I did buy a piece of Pops 8670 with my last order. Think I’ll design a camp knife to use the 8670 on. Yeah, I have a leaf spring from a 1950’s vehicle and an old lawn mower blade laying around too 😂
When I first started I thought steel was expensive. It’s the abrasives that is killer. Steel is so much cheaper than the abrasives. I’m still perfecting my heat treat process and it wouldn’t be possible if I didn’t have extremely consistent quality of steel. Outstanding video.
Kinda but those can vary. Leaf springs are made from many types of steel, some files are only case hardened (and not always 1095), and a lot of saw blades are 15n20. People who are just getting into knife making aren't typically going to know where to find the answers to what exactly they are working with. Now, I still use leaf springs, files, and rasp all the time, so I'm not saying that you shouldn't use those. This was more of a "If you want the best chance to get a quality heat treated blade out of the gate, then you should think about getting known steel".
If I'd have known you were going to Blade show you wouldn't have had to ship my knife I could have met you in Opelika on your way to Blade show it's only about a 20-minute ride for me and I'm sure you're going to go right through there
Sort of agree and disagree, I started and still use old steel, with a bit of playing around it is very possible to work out heat treating, yes it has been maybe abused and so needs careful looking at but I learned a hell of a lot more that way than buying known, having said that some don't want to mess around, they just want to do and then new steel is far better for them but have to bear in mind the first few blades will have many mistakes and flaws, arguments for both ways and old steel suited me better but it isn't for everyone
Looking forward to seeing the knife show footage you can get. But yeah, find a steel you like, its cheap, practice on it until you get comfortable and lets face it, if its worth sticking your name on it somewhere its worth doing as best you can. Another handy pickup for starting makers (and not so new to the craft) is the knife steel nerds Knife engineering book, its about $40-50 and is full of well written, simple language about what steels are and why they do the things they do. Plus its not full of old-timey 'wisdom' or any particular advertising trying to sell you something, just the materials engineering facts about steels. I'm an advocate of quenching oils, a gallon will go you a very long way of a good fast quench that will do a lot of different types of carbon steels and it just damn works all the time. Which in this kind of stuff when you're starting out, you need all the help you can get some days.
free used steel is good way to learn how to forge to shape cause it takes time to learn and you gonna screw up alot, stock removal knives go with know steel and once you know how to forge to shape
Definitely some wisdom right here. Sone thing I tell people. 👍
Thanks Denis! I really hope people take the advice and make their lives easier.
@@theriversexperience9383 agreed 👍
Great video Erick hope you have a great time at the show !
You thanked me for my comment about cheap homemade forges, from Australia. I was really touched. In a world, especially on the internet, where craziness seems to have no shame, the knifemaking community seems so self-effacing and caring. We watch with bemusement and sometimes disbelieve from here...we ain't had a mass shooting since the mid-ninetees, and we ain't stormed our parliament. Over 90% have had their Covid shots. Since America is such an influence on our Australian lives, its good to see someone such as you chat about the artistry of making a knife. So, thank you.
I've really enjoyed the knife making community, we are a group of like minded individuals that tend to be uplifting and I try to bring people up not put them down. If you want to hang out with a great group of guys, you should join my facebook group, the "TRE Workshop" they are all about positivity and helping each other out.
Thanks Eric, excellant advise,
I started with leaf spring and files but for sure you make a superior knife with known steel. There is also a better feel of knowing exactly whats in the knife you are selling.
Lookin forward to seeing the kukri!
I can't wait for blade show. I live north of Atlanta and go every year. Hope to get to meet you and speak with you.
Great video! Love Pop’s! I bought literally 16’ of 8670 ranging in size from 2” wide to 4” wide, for right at $100. I’ve made six knives with it so far including three 8-9” chef knives. I still have 11’ of steel left. Amazing stuff! And if you do pure stock removal. There’s no normalizing needed with 8670
I mostly use old files or chisels for my knives they make a great knife and is a cheap resource👍
Yup, and there isn't anything wrong with that. I still use files and rasp all the time.
@@theriversexperience9383 Nice man
I began to learn hammer skills working with mystery steel; often I discovered it was flawed after spending hours on a project. I've learned that there aren't any acceptable shortcuts, so I use known steel and a heat treating oven and the right quenching fluid for each steel. Now the only flaws I face are my own mistakes, not problems with the steel or HT. Good advice, sir!
Thank Bryson, you made some great points there.
I made (in Australia) a forge out of a backyard bbq dish, for AUS $20, with charcoal as the fuel and a hairdrier from a charity shop pushing air into the coals. 1080 steel online. Works fine.
I had a client a few weeks ago request that I make a knife out of a file he had been given. I refused. I told him that not all files are made the same and many are case hardened using underlying mild steel as the core. So be careful when using a file. I totally agree with leaf springs. I made a chopper for a build off a year or so ago but that was not for sale and was just one of the requirements of the competition. Other than that all my knives are made from known steel.
I don’t use salvaged material for the steel quality, I use it for style points
Lol, I love using my leaf spring steel. I still have a ton of old Ford truck and Willy's Jeep leaf springs that I use.
Have a good time at Blade!
Thanks Jason, that's the plan!
I've never heard of pops before, so thank you for that because once they have what I want in stocks, I'll definitely be getting some steel. Also, thanks for the link for fore bricks. That's much cheaper than when I bought mine and need some more. I really enjoy your videos. I'm glad I've found your channel. Great information.
Completely agree, steel prices are cheap compared to all the rest, handle material is pretty much as expensive. I started with a €35 belt grinder and belts from Aliexpress still use them for wood but for steel I upgraded not to long ago. I am lucky that I can heat treatment at a local blacksmith
I have a box of 22 farriers rasps I got from a retired farrier. I plan on using that all up while learning. I did buy a piece of Pops 8670 with my last order. Think I’ll design a camp knife to use the 8670 on. Yeah, I have a leaf spring from a 1950’s vehicle and an old lawn mower blade laying around too 😂
When I first started I thought steel was expensive. It’s the abrasives that is killer. Steel is so much cheaper than the abrasives. I’m still perfecting my heat treat process and it wouldn’t be possible if I didn’t have extremely consistent quality of steel. Outstanding video.
Thanks Cody, you are right. Abrasives is the costly side of knife making.
Good video …
Thanks!
as i know ...
spring steel and leaf spring is 5160
files 1095
saw blade 80crv20
bearing 52100
so it's like known steel which i use.
Kinda but those can vary. Leaf springs are made from many types of steel, some files are only case hardened (and not always 1095), and a lot of saw blades are 15n20. People who are just getting into knife making aren't typically going to know where to find the answers to what exactly they are working with. Now, I still use leaf springs, files, and rasp all the time, so I'm not saying that you shouldn't use those. This was more of a "If you want the best chance to get a quality heat treated blade out of the gate, then you should think about getting known steel".
@@theriversexperience9383 yep good thoughts. Totally agreee with you.
If I'd have known you were going to Blade show you wouldn't have had to ship my knife I could have met you in Opelika on your way to Blade show it's only about a 20-minute ride for me and I'm sure you're going to go right through there
That would have been cool actually. Your knife is in the mail and should be getting to you soon by the way.
If you get a chance check out my man Tim at the TKell knives booth. He is really doing some cool things. I wish I could go this year…. Have fun
Sort of agree and disagree, I started and still use old steel, with a bit of playing around it is very possible to work out heat treating, yes it has been maybe abused and so needs careful looking at but I learned a hell of a lot more that way than buying known, having said that some don't want to mess around, they just want to do and then new steel is far better for them but have to bear in mind the first few blades will have many mistakes and flaws, arguments for both ways and old steel suited me better but it isn't for everyone
Looking forward to seeing the knife show footage you can get.
But yeah, find a steel you like, its cheap, practice on it until you get comfortable and lets face it, if its worth sticking your name on it somewhere its worth doing as best you can. Another handy pickup for starting makers (and not so new to the craft) is the knife steel nerds Knife engineering book, its about $40-50 and is full of well written, simple language about what steels are and why they do the things they do. Plus its not full of old-timey 'wisdom' or any particular advertising trying to sell you something, just the materials engineering facts about steels.
I'm an advocate of quenching oils, a gallon will go you a very long way of a good fast quench that will do a lot of different types of carbon steels and it just damn works all the time. Which in this kind of stuff when you're starting out, you need all the help you can get some days.
Yup, that is a great book. I highly recommend it.
free used steel is good way to learn how to forge to shape cause it takes time to learn and you gonna screw up alot, stock removal knives go with know steel and once you know how to forge to shape
Thanks for your advice bot suppose you dont have dos steel in your country what is your advice
Hope to run into you at Blade!
Looking forward to it!
because here in my country 🇧🇿 i can't get does steels just files and leave spring