As a Carpenter I've been using Straight/Rip Claw Hammers especially my framing hammer Vaughan California Framer 19oz smooth face 17" curved hickory handle, 23oz Waffled Face 18-1/4" Curved Hickory Handle and my old 27oz Vaughan California Framer waffled face 19" Straight Hickory Handle. On my finish hammer I've been using Dalluge 16oz Straight rip claw California Framer style finish hammer 16-1/2" Curved Hickory Handle. I love wood handles they absorb the vibrations and shocks really well. I'm not worried that they will break because I know how to replace em perfectly.
@@ConstructionEd yeah that's true! As a matter of fact my fellow Carpenters keeps on buying Chinese hammers and once that they break it especially the handle they just throws them in the trash. For me I'd rather get a good one that will last for years, and I can get a good hickory handle for replacements. Replacing a hammer handle is easy. If I have a machine at home I can make and mold my own hickory wood handle myself. But I don't have that kind of machine that's why I orders them online or I buy em in my near local hardware stores.
If you want to start a riot, ask a roomful of carpenters to name their favorite hammer. OK, all kidding aside, here are my thoughts and opinions. I don't see much need for hammers above 16 ounces, because nail guns are so much more efficient for framing. I've used all sorts of hammers - straight claw, curved claw, wood handle, steel handle, fiberglass. My favorite is an old 13 ounce wood handle Plumb. For rough work, I used a 16 ounce Plumb with a fiberglass handle. When I started out, I did form work and tried a heavy, straight claw Estwing, but hated it. Swing is everything, no matter what hammer you choose. Once your hammer is in motion, let it go and let the speed of the swing do the work. Sure, hold the hammer tightly enough to control it, but don't use a death-grip and don't keep pushing. With practice, you can swat nails in without stressing your joints and muscles. I'm glad to see the emphasis on safety here. Construction work is dangerous.
John, Thanks for your useful comments. This video is up for an update, I think we will redo it in the summer this year. We have a few of our framing videos on this channel - but most of them are only in our courses on TradeSkillsU.online
As a Carpenter I've been using Straight/Rip Claw Hammers especially my framing hammer Vaughan California Framer 19oz smooth face 17" curved hickory handle, 23oz Waffled Face 18-1/4" Curved Hickory Handle and my old 27oz Vaughan California Framer waffled face 19" Straight Hickory Handle. On my finish hammer I've been using Dalluge 16oz Straight rip claw California Framer style finish hammer 16-1/2" Curved Hickory Handle. I love wood handles they absorb the vibrations and shocks really well. I'm not worried that they will break because I know how to replace em perfectly.
Thanks for the comments - replacing a handle seems to be a lost art.
@@ConstructionEd yeah that's true! As a matter of fact my fellow Carpenters keeps on buying Chinese hammers and once that they break it especially the handle they just throws them in the trash. For me I'd rather get a good one that will last for years, and I can get a good hickory handle for replacements. Replacing a hammer handle is easy. If I have a machine at home I can make and mold my own hickory wood handle myself. But I don't have that kind of machine that's why I orders them online or I buy em in my near local hardware stores.
If you want to start a riot, ask a roomful of carpenters to name their favorite hammer. OK, all kidding aside, here are my thoughts and opinions.
I don't see much need for hammers above 16 ounces, because nail guns are so much more efficient for framing. I've used all sorts of hammers - straight claw, curved claw, wood handle, steel handle, fiberglass. My favorite is an old 13 ounce wood handle Plumb. For rough work, I used a 16 ounce Plumb with a fiberglass handle. When I started out, I did form work and tried a heavy, straight claw Estwing, but hated it.
Swing is everything, no matter what hammer you choose. Once your hammer is in motion, let it go and let the speed of the swing do the work. Sure, hold the hammer tightly enough to control it, but don't use a death-grip and don't keep pushing. With practice, you can swat nails in without stressing your joints and muscles.
I'm glad to see the emphasis on safety here. Construction work is dangerous.
John, Thanks for your useful comments. This video is up for an update, I think we will redo it in the summer this year. We have a few of our framing videos on this channel - but most of them are only in our courses on TradeSkillsU.online
Great video!!!
👍🔨
Thanks Charles - have you watched all of our video lesson yet
That's not a hammer! That's what the government calls a multi-directional impact driver and seels for over $500.00 LOL
I want a $500 dollar hammer.