One other thing you need to think about, is to remove you wrist watch prior to placing your hands in the film changing bag. Some watches have luminescence on the dial. That can transfer and expose your film.
what better thing to do during this lockdown then spend some moneys on learning to develop my film. Also thinking on darkroom prints.
7 років тому+46
By the way, if anyone finds their Paterson tank leaking, you need to press the middle of the lid while opening it slightly to let out some the air that's inside the tank. You should hear a "pfft" sound. I've always done this and my tank has never leaked.
Hey Matt! Just wanna thank you for this video (and the others). Been shooting analog for maybe six months now, had a lot of fun doing it, but the cost of developing in my country has been keeping me back. Today i ordered 20 rolls of tri x, and all the stuff I need to start developing myself. I am really excited, and just wanted to thank you for demystifying the process. Keep doing what you do!
Thanks for the video, Matt. I recently purchased the HC-110 because of your tutorials and explanations. Sounds a relief to have a really long shelf life developer with me right now.
Yesterday I developed my first roll and it came out perfect. Very nice. Also very fun too so man! I had a few empty spots, the camera skipped one photo a few times. Not sure why. Bought that one for 1 euro so it might have its problems. But had a few perfectly exposed pics and a few overexposed ones. Now about to set up my DSLR scanning stuff.
just loaded film on to the reel first time, first try tonight! Just wanted to throw a little brag in great video I follow your process instructions and it went great keep up the great material really enjoy it
Great video, it has been a while since I developed film. This gets a bookmark, second look and notes. I'm ready for B&W, and then maybe color slides which I also did long ago.
It's been a long time since I developed film, but I was a D76 user. I experimented with Microdol-X and some HC110. But most of my Tri-X was D76, usually a 1:1 to lengthen the developing time a bit.
@@nvrumi Cool. Was not expecting to see a response to a comment I made almost a decade ago. I still use a monobath but use a premade mix from Cinestill instead of mixing it myself from a recipe on an old forum and hoping for consistency. lol
I didn't see a comment on this, but the fixer "fixes" the image by removing unexposed silver halide from the film emulsion. If fixing is done properly, then the film is archival. I also used a little fixer clear in the wash to help remove the remaining fixer from the emulsion. I think I still have my notes from the 1970s when I learned. I'd use distilled water if it were me. There's too much calcium carbonate in our water and it will spot the film.
How stupid to show the loading process with his hands inside the changing bag!!! He should explain the use of the changing bag, then demonstrate the loading OUTSIDE the bag so viewers can see it!!! Really idiotic.
good video. I am back at film again after many years only digital. Enjoy the whole process, i print myself too. Only thing that i cant seem to get rid off is dust, these white specs on paper, that i hate so much. No mater how i try to clean, it always find its way on the negative. whats the deal about that? do you use film cleaners? regards from Austria
Hi Matt , I have a question for you. I m thinking of getting the HC110 Developer but wondering what is the developing time for HP5 Plus films at 68F. Also I read this from kodak imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/resources/j24.pdf it says for 400TX film develops for 3 1/2 minutes at 70F but in your video you developed for 6 minutes 50 seconds. What is the right time to use?
Matt, bit of a random question regarding mixing fixer: do you mix the TF-4 and water together in a separate jug and then add it to your Datatainer when it's mixed, or do you just pour both the fixer and water straight into the Datatainer and then give it a shake and be done with it? I've never used liquid developers before, so I'm used to mixing my developer / fixer (both powder) in large jugs or buckets and then once mixed with water, adding it to my Datatainer. I like the idea of just adding them straight to the Datatainer and letting the chemical and water mix together in there.
Xtol- pour 4L of 25 degree C water in jug, stir in part A and keep stirring until it completely dissolves. Then stir in part B and keep stirring until it completely dissolves. Add one more liter of water to make 5L.
Good video, as always :) But IMHO you should have shown what really happens INSIDE the changing bag (and not sending your viewers googling for that) by using an old film, etc. And never, ever use squeegees by eliminating the extra water. No matter how good they are, squeegees will always scratch the negative. And, well, the chemicals right temp is a bit of an issue, too... But I truly enjoyed your video. Besides, developing is just as beautiful of a process than a rather personal one; everyone does it their own way, and so did you. Thanks for your uploads, Ted Forbes sent me here! :)
Sure, but once you've saved one spool, there's probably no need to save the ones from the next dozen or the next hundred rolls of film. They're probably recyclable.
Hi Matt, any advice on processing a 20-year old exposed Tri-X Pan Prof. film? I have HC-110 I can use. Dilution? Developing time? Also, did you just use water for the stop bath or did I miss a step? Thanks for any help in this!
Thanks for making this video...I'm planning on developing tri-x 320 4x5 and like to know if you still use the same chemicals for that or will you use Ilford developer nowdays since you swiitched to Ilford filmstock. Also what is your take of using the BTZS tube development vs the Mod54 system using the patterson tank.
I've been over many developing videos and yours certainly got on the spot. Not only for the explanation but for giving a fuck about which chemical is better, brands, bla, bla. Really appreciate the feedback, you cleared out some doubts.
Couple of comments to a very good presentation of B&W film development. First, Matt used TF-4 fixer, which is a very good but powerful fixer. Like all "rapid fixers", it's time and temperature for fixing must be carefully determined by reference to the maker's literature. Excess fixing can seriously damage your film image. "Standard fixer" is less potent and will take more time to work, so be sure which type of fixer you use. Secondly, 10 minutes is an inadequate washing time unless you use a bath of "hypo eliminator" [not used here]; 20-30 minutes is a more proper wash time. Finally, I'd toss out the film wipers [any type]; they pick up dirt with use and WILL scratch your wet, soft film emulsion. Just use Photoflo [at half the strength recommended],hang the film, and let it dry. No spots; no scratches.
Hey Matt - thanks for the very helpful and informative video. After 15+ years of shooting digital only I've decided to get back into film. So now I need to retrain myself from the ground up. Just wondered when loading 120 film onto the reel when you separate the paper backing from the film if the finger prints on the film show up in the print or does processing the film remove them? Obviously, it's a good deal easier to load it without fighting with the paper, just wonder how handling the film effects the final outcome. Thanks in advance for your help.
One other thing to be careful about is pulling the tape from the film too fast while separating 120 film from the paper. Under certain conditions, pulling it fast can generate static electricity which can put a light streak at the bottom of your film. A slow steady peel is best..
Thanks for posting this. One question: 1. If you are using the same measuring cups, spoons, etc for developing film, do you need to clean them with soapy water in-between steps (i.e. fixer vs. developer) or will just washing it out with water do? I know I don't want to contaminate my chemicals so I don't want developer in my stop bath and such, but I was worried that having traces of soap might ruin things too.
Cool, many thanks. Easy and well understandable explained. 1 question: as stop bath, u used normal water from the tap? Did I get this correct from the movie? Appreciate any reply.
Mr. Day, this tutorial was very helpful to me and I thank you. I am just new to medium format and film. I have tried your method of developing black and white 120 roll film and I am happy with the results. Your tutorial is by far the most comprehensive in youtube. Thank you again and keep them coming. Well done Sir. =)
Hi Matt I just start developing my films, is normal that the film at the end of been dried is a little bit sticky? I don't understand why. I washed the film with a lot of water but nothing change.
Hey Matt, I'm starting to develop my film by myself. Can I develop two rolls at once with the same amount of quimicals? I mean, If I'm devolping two 35mm rolls in the same tank, can I use the same amount of developer and fixer that I would use for just one roll?
Hey Matt! I recently started shooting film this last year and have acquired a few 35mm and am seriously considering going that route rather than upgrading my digital equipment. Your channel has been the most helpful advice that I have see on youtube so keep 'em coming bro! Would you be able to link where you can buy the chemicals for developing, online stores and what not?
I’ve tried the Paterson tanks. Nothing but steel reels for me. Because I usually do multiple rolls and the steel reels dry quicker vs the Patterson reels.
Very helpful and precise, thank you very much !!! A question: I've no luck finding the last chemical (soap like) u used along with the squeezer... What are the chances I'll screw the negatives on that last step? Also, I read somewhere that after the fixer and while I'm constantly pouring water on the film, the water should also be at 20°, but as shown here you didn't even took its temperature, so, non important ? Thanks again, big hugs!!
Thanks for your Video on developing the film, I haven't done it for a long time so I took the opportunity to catch up with the times since I have now retired. Most helpful and thanks for sharing and for all the tips. Regards Ken
Matt, just wanted to let you know that I very much appreciate your vids; developed my first roll ever today in a large part to you and making me feel like I could. If you ever find your way to Phoenix let me know, I owe you a cold beer, thanks
It was great watching this and brought back lots of memories of developing film when i was at school in England UK. Then bought all the equipment and took over a larder cupboard in my mum's kitchen as a darkroom. Still got all the Patterson tanks and most of the equipment you used (film clips, tongs, measuring cylinders etc. I used different chemicals made by either Johnson's or Pattersons. Not sure I can summon the energy to try it all again, but might be tempted to get the old equipment out the loft and have a look for nostalgia's sake. Thanks for the video.
i watched this video today as a refresher, I haven't developed my own film in quite awhile - since college. This was a huge help in my first time developing film at home. Had great results. Thanks! :)
Thanks Matt! That was actually really exciting to watch. Bought my Patterson Tank a couple months ago and I have been slowly assembling my chemicals for my first attempt. Loved the video and explanations along with your pointers
Thank you so much for this, its easy when you know how to do it but as most things its scary when you dont. just going to Google you can get a tutorial that will take you through the steps sure but the commentary in between is what made it all come together. I have gone the digital route for money reasons and with you and other guys like Ted Forbes you make it possible for me. This comment would be great for most of your videos to be frank, thank you so much!
I know I'm about a year late to the party. It's cool to see how you develop, I have a completely different method and developer choice. I do remember that you switched to ilford chemicals not long ago.
Thank you, for the video it is very informative with step by step instructions. You made it seem simple enough for me to go ahead and try this. Which i will.
Matt, If any of these chemical can damage or cause discomfort if they get into your eyes, you may want to get a pair of chemical splash goggles when you do this.
Great video! I want to develop B&W film but i can only get Dekotol (powder) developer, i have heard that i can use it with film, but a i dont know how to correctly mix it, have you tried this?
Eslava del rio Dektol is usually used for photo paper not film but it does work. Found that out quite by accident. It was good it worked too because 3x5 sheet film is expensive.
One other thing you need to think about, is to remove you wrist watch prior to placing your hands in the film changing bag. Some watches have luminescence on the dial. That can transfer and expose your film.
oh is it a 150 watt light bulb in the watch?
@@daviddavidd9883 it dont need to be, it can affect a lot.
Anyone still learning darkroom technique in 2020 like me!?
what better thing to do during this lockdown then spend some moneys on learning to develop my film. Also thinking on darkroom prints.
By the way, if anyone finds their Paterson tank leaking, you need to press the middle of the lid while opening it slightly to let out some the air that's inside the tank. You should hear a "pfft" sound. I've always done this and my tank has never leaked.
Yeah you need to 'burp' the tank to create a vacuum seal in the tank
Hey Matt! Just wanna thank you for this video (and the others). Been shooting analog for maybe six months now, had a lot of fun doing it, but the cost of developing in my country has been keeping me back. Today i ordered 20 rolls of tri x, and all the stuff I need to start developing myself. I am really excited, and just wanted to thank you for demystifying the process.
Keep doing what you do!
I've kept the spools a few times because I needed them for another camera that came without one. Like an old brownie camera.
Thanks for the video, Matt. I recently purchased the HC-110 because of your tutorials and explanations. Sounds a relief to have a really long shelf life developer with me right now.
Yesterday I developed my first roll and it came out perfect. Very nice. Also very fun too so man! I had a few empty spots, the camera skipped one photo a few times. Not sure why. Bought that one for 1 euro so it might have its problems. But had a few perfectly exposed pics and a few overexposed ones. Now about to set up my DSLR scanning stuff.
just loaded film on to the reel first time, first try tonight! Just wanted to throw a little brag in great video I follow your process instructions and it went great keep up the great material really enjoy it
most useful video on youtube about this topic! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Been using Patterson tanks for more years that I want to remember since the early 70s
A most excellent and informative video, Thank You My Friend.
Great video, it has been a while since I developed film. This gets a bookmark, second look and notes. I'm ready for B&W, and then maybe color slides which I also did long ago.
Very helpful, I will start developing my films ASAP. Thank you!!
thanks for the video and sharing your knowledge - very helpful!!
Ten years later and this is still helping people. Thank you so much, Matt, for making this and being so thorough.
I have been using D76 for years but just recently bought some HC 110 to try a monobath process. Maybe I will give this a try too.
It's been a long time since I developed film, but I was a D76 user. I experimented with Microdol-X and some HC110. But most of my Tri-X was D76, usually a 1:1 to lengthen the developing time a bit.
@@nvrumi Cool. Was not expecting to see a response to a comment I made almost a decade ago. I still use a monobath but use a premade mix from Cinestill instead of mixing it myself from a recipe on an old forum and hoping for consistency. lol
I didn't see a comment on this, but the fixer "fixes" the image by removing unexposed silver halide from the film emulsion. If fixing is done properly, then the film is archival. I also used a little fixer clear in the wash to help remove the remaining fixer from the emulsion.
I think I still have my notes from the 1970s when I learned.
I'd use distilled water if it were me. There's too much calcium carbonate in our water and it will spot the film.
How stupid to show the loading process with his hands inside the changing bag!!! He should explain the use of the changing bag, then demonstrate the loading OUTSIDE the bag so viewers can see it!!! Really idiotic.
This is so good man! Thanks a TON
Loved it and really helpful video!! Great job! I'm still waiting on the setup office tour Matt haha but keep up the good work!
good video. I am back at film again after many years only digital. Enjoy the whole process, i print myself too. Only thing that i cant seem to get rid off is dust, these white specs on paper, that i hate so much. No mater how i try to clean, it always find its way on the negative. whats the deal about that? do you use film cleaners? regards from Austria
Remember to remove your electronic wristwatch before you stick your arm into that changing bag.
Thanks for the video
If you have a watch that lights up like a fitbit or Apple watch. Don't forget to take that off like I did.
Hi Matt , I have a question for you. I m thinking of getting the HC110 Developer but wondering what is the developing time for HP5 Plus films at 68F. Also I read this from kodak imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/resources/j24.pdf it says for 400TX film develops for 3 1/2 minutes at 70F but in your video you developed for 6 minutes 50 seconds. What is the right time to use?
Matt Yao I would go by what it says on the instructions
13:55 So that´s why the developer turns green when I used
fomapan film… Mistry solved!
Yep! Fomapan is always deep green and HP5 is a dark gray. It’s a fun game :)
Matt, bit of a random question regarding mixing fixer: do you mix the TF-4 and water together in a separate jug and then add it to your Datatainer when it's mixed, or do you just pour both the fixer and water straight into the Datatainer and then give it a shake and be done with it?
I've never used liquid developers before, so I'm used to mixing my developer / fixer (both powder) in large jugs or buckets and then once mixed with water, adding it to my Datatainer. I like the idea of just adding them straight to the Datatainer and letting the chemical and water mix together in there.
Thank you for going through the process step by step and explaining it all so clearly. Loving this channel!
Great tutorial. I'll be developing stuff soon so it's like my bible now!
Great info, thankyou so much for your video. it's very informative, especially for amateurs like me....:)
I always wondered how this was done, but I don't think its for me. Its very interesting process though.
PLEASE do a video on how to mix XTOL or D76 from powder!!
Xtol- pour 4L of 25 degree C water in jug, stir in part A and keep stirring until it completely dissolves. Then stir in part B and keep stirring until it completely dissolves. Add one more liter of water to make 5L.
very thorough - good refresher for someone who has not shot film since the mid seventies :>)
you can also turn out all the lights in the dark room and do the same thing.
Good video, as always :)
But IMHO you should have shown what really happens INSIDE the changing bag (and not sending your viewers googling for that) by using an old film, etc. And never, ever use squeegees by eliminating the extra water. No matter how good they are, squeegees will always scratch the negative.
And, well, the chemicals right temp is a bit of an issue, too... But I truly enjoyed your video. Besides, developing is just as beautiful of a process than a rather personal one; everyone does it their own way, and so did you.
Thanks for your uploads, Ted Forbes sent me here! :)
Some MF cameras require a spool to load film onto. That's why people keep the spool. Surprised you don't know that.
Sure, but once you've saved one spool, there's probably no need to save the ones from the next dozen or the next hundred rolls of film. They're probably recyclable.
I wear protective gloves, you should too...
Thank you. Very helpful.
Hi Matt, any advice on processing a 20-year old exposed Tri-X Pan Prof. film? I have HC-110 I can use. Dilution? Developing time? Also, did you just use water for the stop bath or did I miss a step? Thanks for any help in this!
Thanks for making this video...I'm planning on developing tri-x 320 4x5 and like to know if you still use the same chemicals for that or will you use Ilford developer nowdays since you swiitched to Ilford filmstock. Also what is your take of using the BTZS tube development vs the Mod54 system using the patterson tank.
Matt, I've had too many unfortunate experiences with film squeegees. I use only Photo-Flo and let the film air-dry. Consequently, no film scratching.
I've been over many developing videos and yours certainly got on the spot. Not only for the explanation but for giving a fuck about which chemical is better, brands, bla, bla. Really appreciate the feedback, you cleared out some doubts.
I can't find any film squegee like yours but only the rubber ones that I was about to buy...
Couple of comments to a very good presentation of B&W film development. First, Matt used TF-4 fixer, which is a very good but powerful fixer. Like all "rapid fixers", it's time and temperature for fixing must be carefully determined by reference to the maker's literature. Excess fixing can seriously damage your film image. "Standard fixer" is less potent and will take more time to work, so be sure which type of fixer you use. Secondly, 10 minutes is an inadequate washing time unless you use a bath of "hypo eliminator" [not used here]; 20-30 minutes is a more proper wash time. Finally, I'd toss out the film wipers [any type]; they pick up dirt with use and WILL scratch your wet, soft film emulsion. Just use Photoflo [at half the strength recommended],hang the film, and let it dry. No spots; no scratches.
Thank you, I enjoyed this video a lot.
Hey Matt - thanks for the very helpful and informative video. After 15+ years of shooting digital only I've decided to get back into film. So now I need to retrain myself from the ground up. Just wondered when loading 120 film onto the reel when you separate the paper backing from the film if the finger prints on the film show up in the print or does processing the film remove them? Obviously, it's a good deal easier to load it without fighting with the paper, just wonder how handling the film effects the final outcome. Thanks in advance for your help.
One other thing to be careful about is pulling the tape from the film too fast while separating 120 film from the paper. Under certain conditions, pulling it fast can generate static electricity which can put a light streak at the bottom of your film. A slow steady peel is best..
Thanks for posting this. One question:
1. If you are using the same measuring cups, spoons, etc for developing film, do you need to clean them with soapy water in-between steps (i.e. fixer vs. developer) or will just washing it out with water do? I know I don't want to contaminate my chemicals so I don't want developer in my stop bath and such, but I was worried that having traces of soap might ruin things too.
Cool, many thanks. Easy and well understandable explained. 1 question: as stop bath, u used normal water from the tap? Did I get this correct from the movie? Appreciate any reply.
Mr. Day, this tutorial was very helpful to me and I thank you. I am just new to medium format and film. I have tried your method of developing black and white 120 roll film and I am happy with the results. Your tutorial is by far the most comprehensive in youtube. Thank you again and keep them coming. Well done Sir. =)
Hi Matt I just start developing my films, is normal that the film at the end of been dried is a little bit sticky? I don't understand why. I washed the film with a lot of water but nothing change.
Hey Matt, I'm starting to develop my film by myself. Can I develop two rolls at once with the same amount of quimicals? I mean, If I'm devolping two 35mm rolls in the same tank, can I use the same amount of developer and fixer that I would use for just one roll?
Hey Matt! I recently started shooting film this last year and have acquired a few 35mm and am seriously considering going that route rather than upgrading my digital equipment. Your channel has been the most helpful advice that I have see on youtube so keep 'em coming bro!
Would you be able to link where you can buy the chemicals for developing, online stores and what not?
I’ve tried the Paterson tanks. Nothing but steel reels for me. Because I usually do multiple rolls and the steel reels dry quicker vs the Patterson reels.
Instead of leaving mine to dry in an open room where dust or bugs can get to it, I use one of those cheap, plastic, zippered clothes wardrobes.
Very helpful and precise, thank you very much !!!
A question: I've no luck finding the last chemical (soap like) u used along with the squeezer... What are the chances I'll screw the negatives on that last step?
Also, I read somewhere that after the fixer and while I'm constantly pouring water on the film, the water should also be at 20°, but as shown here you didn't even took its temperature, so, non important ?
Thanks again, big hugs!!
Thanks for your Video on developing the film, I haven't done it for a long time so I took the opportunity to catch up with the times since I have now retired. Most helpful and thanks for sharing and for all the tips. Regards Ken
Matt, just wanted to let you know that I very much appreciate your vids; developed my first roll ever today in a large part to you and making me feel like I could. If you ever find your way to Phoenix let me know, I owe you a cold beer, thanks
Thank you Sir.
awesome man so nice.... any tip about the developers.. any brand in specific?thanks
It was great watching this and brought back lots of memories of developing film when i was at school in England UK. Then bought all the equipment and took over a larder cupboard in my mum's kitchen as a darkroom. Still got all the Patterson tanks and most of the equipment you used (film clips, tongs, measuring cylinders etc. I used different chemicals made by either Johnson's or Pattersons. Not sure I can summon the energy to try it all again, but might be tempted to get the old equipment out the loft and have a look for nostalgia's sake. Thanks for the video.
i watched this video today as a refresher, I haven't developed my own film in quite awhile - since college. This was a huge help in my first time developing film at home. Had great results. Thanks! :)
Good video, one thing, the sqeegy thing..... Brrrrrrrr For me NEVER :-) Greetz
Matt, do you utilize the same process for your 35mm Tri-X? Thanks for the great, helpful, and insightful videos! Always look forward to new ones!
Thanks Matt! That was actually really exciting to watch. Bought my Patterson Tank a couple months ago and I have been slowly assembling my chemicals for my first attempt. Loved the video and explanations along with your pointers
Thank you so much for this, its easy when you know how to do it but as most things its scary when you dont. just going to Google you can get a tutorial that will take you through the steps sure but the commentary in between is what made it all come together. I have gone the digital route for money reasons and with you and other guys like Ted Forbes you make it possible for me.
This comment would be great for most of your videos to be frank, thank you so much!
Thanks for the video Matt! Just developed my first roll yesterday following your steps and everything went better than expected.
Thanks for this video - bought my developing kit and looking forward to trying out my home developing!!
I only used changing bags under duress, and for loading 4x5 holders. It's a real challenge.
I know I'm about a year late to the party. It's cool to see how you develop, I have a completely different method and developer choice. I do remember that you switched to ilford chemicals not long ago.
woaa... i thought its gonna be complex. its easy to do process but still we need practice all over again. This is helps me a lot! Thanks, bro!
Just started shooting film! Would you be able to create a list of things needed? Love the channel!
Thank you, for the video it is very informative with step by step instructions. You made it seem simple enough for me to go ahead and try this. Which i will.
Awesome, Matt. I will be starting to develop my own film in the next few weeks when all my stuff arrives. This was a big help.
Matt, If any of these chemical can damage or cause discomfort if they get into your eyes, you may want to get a pair of chemical splash goggles when you do this.
Did you have to use the injector plunge? I feel you could have just tipped it over and dumped it in. lol.
Thanks you so much Matt for doing those videos! awesome stuff on your channel.
We doing 120 today......
Matt, thanks, this is great. Have you tried any of the Caffenol stuff?
Hey Matt, the videos you upload are very clear and easy to listen to. I would love to see more videos, it's great you share your experience :)
Nice vid Matt. Reminds me of my time in high school when I developed my first negatives.. Good times.
What kind of equipment are you using to record this video, Matt?
I'm preparing to make an own photo lab, this is gonna help me out! Greats from The Netherlands!
Do I have to add the 2% rule for the formulary tf-4 with every use of film?
This is an awesome video man. You make it look so simple and relaxed! Thank you man!
Thanks Matt. Good stuff. Very thorough and helpful.
Are there any alternatives to photo flo? i cant get my hands on any here in Australia, cheers.
just wanted to say thank you for this. by far the best tutorial on developing.
Have you experimented with a lot of developer/chemicals with HP5 and if so, can you give us an idea of the different results? thanks!
Thank you! That was so informative and easy to follow.
thank you sir. very informative especially for a newbee
I appreciate your video's thank you :)
Great video! I want to develop B&W film but i can only get Dekotol (powder) developer, i have heard that i can use it with film, but a i dont know how to correctly mix it, have you tried this?
Eslava del rio Dektol is usually used for photo paper not film but it does work. Found that out quite by accident. It was good it worked too because 3x5 sheet film is expensive.
Have you tried the New55 R3 Monobath?
Hey Matt. Thanks for this. What is your development technique when pushing tri x to high speed like 3600? Do you ever use stand development?
*3200
Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
Hi Matt. Thanks a lot - that was great. It makes me want to start again with film!
Hey Matt,
What are the best chemicals to get for hp5?, just about to get back into analog photography.
well... you should use an old film and SHOW what you do inside the bag... would be way more helpful IMO.. gonna keep searching I guess.
Thanks, I have freshed up my skills and ready to do develop.