Thank you! Very informative video... I was always told to underexpose and when i tried to recover the details I was disappointed with the noise that was left as a result of this process. I have learned a lot from you and am appreciative !
Glad to hear it has helped. Yes underexposing is taught at beginner level usually to ensure this, but as you saw it often brings out noise when you lift the shadows. How bad it is depends on your camera. The more expensive higher end cameras handle it better, but the cheaper low end ones are worse.
@@IanMiddletonPhotographyTravel , I have the sony a9 and I still wasn't happy with the noise in pics that were underexposed. I don't underexpose anymore, but believe it or not I was taught this in my college photography class. Thanks also for your videos about using Adobe Camera RAW. We focused so much on photoshop at school but ACR is so fast and easy before you get to Photoshop!
@@IanMiddletonPhotographyTravel HAHAHA...my instructors both come from the days of using 35mm film! Obviously this technique wasn't suggested for every photograph...just certain shooting situations (eg. sunsets).
@@coreybyrd8392 ha, yes of course especially when the sun is in the frame. But even then, pushing it to the right a bit and then pulling it back in acr makes for a glossier look. Trick is to ensure the details aren't burnt out.
Thanks a ton sir, it’s a very useful tutorial, I learned a lot, Earlier I was confused about using graduating filter in camera raw, you explained it very nicely. Thank you very much
Thank you for sharing this technique, Ian! It is worth being tried, though it is not that obvious that you couldn't come to the same result, starting with normally exposed image and highliting dark areas... I will try both ways at some image. Thank you for a kind of inspiration to go deeper into techniques! Igor
You could but you'd have to lift the shadows which would result in less smooth tonal transitions and could well introduce noise, the level of which would depend on the quality of your camera. Exposing to the right is a much better way.
You can see that the first image has no sun in it. The second picture contains the sun. In a contrasty picture where there is a sun, most of the very bright stuff SHOULD be blown out in order to capture any kind of shadow/ midtone detail. You can mess with the curves to shape the transition between the blown out parts and the not blown out parts. You can even make it look like film even if a lot of the sky is blown out. If you want to get the sun and the clouds around it, just bracket the shot or use a 2 square kilometre softbox to illuminate the landscape.
First class Ian. I am entirely new to photo and videography, learning on the fly. I don’t want to pay a monthly sub for photoshop I don’t take enough pics, is there an alternative.
The sky colour is the warm morning light at sunrise, but has been warned up more by using the shady white balance. The intensity and smoothness of it is down to the ettr effect. As you saw I didn't touch the saturation slider, but by getting a brighter exposure and then darkening a bit, pulling back the highlights but keeping the bright parts bright, and tweaking the contrast and dehaze tool it has really brought it out. The underexposed shot looked nowhere near as good.
@@IanMiddletonPhotographyTravel I obviously didn't phrase my question right. Did the sky actually look like the one in the photo when you were there, or is it exaggerated?
@@adamyoung3286 sorry, downsides of reading quickly on a phone. The whole scene on the photo is much more vibrant than the actual scene was yes. It was a misty scene so the ettr has enhanced it a bit.
Yes you can use it for portraits too. Just be sure not to burn out the highlights and bracket just in case. I find it can be great when you have a dark background too.
Thank you very much for an informative video. Enjoyed your format, easy to listen to and your instruction appreciated.
You are very welcome. Glad you found it useful.
Excellent tutorial, watched both parts, thanks for the explanation and examples.
Thanks a lot. Appreciate it.
Thank you very much! Your tutorial is excellent. You go step by step and the best of all we really can see the results.
Thanks very much. Glad you found it helpful.
WONDERFUL, THANK YOU FOR YET ANOTHER VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO!!!
Thank you Ian! Great information! Great format! Excellent teaching at the proper speed! Very useful info! You are the best!
Thanks very much.
Sehr gutes Video 👌🏼
I tryed the last fase in Photoshop for the first time. I try again to see if it gives you more possibilitys then in Camera Raw.
Good job and well done. I learned a lot from your in-depth coverage of this concept.
Thanks very much. Glad it has helped.
Thank you! Very informative video... I was always told to underexpose and when i tried to recover the details I was disappointed with the noise that was left as a result of this process. I have learned a lot from you and am appreciative !
Glad to hear it has helped. Yes underexposing is taught at beginner level usually to ensure this, but as you saw it often brings out noise when you lift the shadows. How bad it is depends on your camera. The more expensive higher end cameras handle it better, but the cheaper low end ones are worse.
@@IanMiddletonPhotographyTravel , I have the sony a9 and I still wasn't happy with the noise in pics that were underexposed. I don't underexpose anymore, but believe it or not I was taught this in my college photography class. Thanks also for your videos about using Adobe Camera RAW. We focused so much on photoshop at school but ACR is so fast and easy before you get to Photoshop!
@@coreybyrd8392 underexposing is an old school technique used in the days of film.
@@IanMiddletonPhotographyTravel HAHAHA...my instructors both come from the days of using 35mm film! Obviously this technique wasn't suggested for every photograph...just certain shooting situations (eg. sunsets).
@@coreybyrd8392 ha, yes of course especially when the sun is in the frame. But even then, pushing it to the right a bit and then pulling it back in acr makes for a glossier look. Trick is to ensure the details aren't burnt out.
Thanks Ian. Really enjoyed both parts of tutorial !
Thanks very much. Glad you enjoyed it.
great stuff here in Part 2. beautiful photo BTW.
Thanks very much.
Thanks a ton sir, it’s a very useful tutorial, I learned a lot, Earlier I was confused about using graduating filter in camera raw, you explained it very nicely.
Thank you very much
You're very welcome. Check out my tutorial on the grad tool also for a more in depth look.
Thank you for sharing this technique, Ian! It is worth being tried, though it is not that obvious that you couldn't come to the same result, starting with normally exposed image and highliting dark areas... I will try both ways at some image. Thank you for a kind of inspiration to go deeper into techniques! Igor
You could but you'd have to lift the shadows which would result in less smooth tonal transitions and could well introduce noise, the level of which would depend on the quality of your camera. Exposing to the right is a much better way.
Wow ! great video , I was doing everything wrong hahaha. Thank you for sharing
You're very welcome.
You can see that the first image has no sun in it. The second picture contains the sun. In a contrasty picture where there is a sun, most of the very bright stuff SHOULD be blown out in order to capture any kind of shadow/ midtone detail. You can mess with the curves to shape the transition between the blown out parts and the not blown out parts. You can even make it look like film even if a lot of the sky is blown out.
If you want to get the sun and the clouds around it, just bracket the shot or use a 2 square kilometre softbox to illuminate the landscape.
Looking forward to using this technique. Do you bracket at a .3 .5 or 1??
I usually do three bracketed shots at + - 1 stop depending on the scene.
First class Ian. I am entirely new to photo and videography, learning on the fly. I don’t want to pay a monthly sub for photoshop I don’t take enough pics, is there an alternative.
Thanks. Haven't used it myself but I hear GIMP is very good: www.gimp.org/
Ok, I’ve got that for making ‘little planets’ I’ll take a look. I have Lightroom on my iPad that seems fairly straight forward.
That was excellent, but I have a question. Did the sky actually look like that when you took it, or is this an exaggerated edit? Enjoyed the tutorial.
The sky colour is the warm morning light at sunrise, but has been warned up more by using the shady white balance. The intensity and smoothness of it is down to the ettr effect. As you saw I didn't touch the saturation slider, but by getting a brighter exposure and then darkening a bit, pulling back the highlights but keeping the bright parts bright, and tweaking the contrast and dehaze tool it has really brought it out. The underexposed shot looked nowhere near as good.
@@IanMiddletonPhotographyTravel I obviously didn't phrase my question right. Did the sky actually look like the one in the photo when you were there, or is it exaggerated?
@@adamyoung3286 sorry, downsides of reading quickly on a phone. The whole scene on the photo is much more vibrant than the actual scene was yes. It was a misty scene so the ettr has enhanced it a bit.
Is this ETTR technique only fir landscapes or is it useful in portraits?
Yes you can use it for portraits too. Just be sure not to burn out the highlights and bracket just in case. I find it can be great when you have a dark background too.
I'm Guessing that the original photos were RAW images ? Not JPEG ? Can you confirm please !
Yes it was RAW. Most of the work you saw was done in Adobe camera raw.
The final image looks way too 'photoshopped' to me. The unprocessed ones look more natural, needing just little tweaks.
It's a matter of taste but I agree with you
"Exposing to the right"?? puh-leeze. It's simply exposing correctly using the histogram.
The image is actually overexposed.
Excellent tutorial Ian, I'm learning so much. Thank you for sharing
You're very welcome.