Dr. Grant, thank you. I was going to say this was the first “Wildlife Agricultural” seminar I have watched, but the truth is that every GDTV show you post is just that. I truly get excited when GDTV posts a new video. I pray the Lord continues to bless you and the GDTV Team. ✝️🇺🇸🦌
That was awesome! I've followed you for many years while living in Thailand. My wife and I have recently bought 350 acres in North Alabama and hope to apply some of what we've learned from you. Thanks so much for you programs.
You have a great opportunity to improve wildlife for a big area around you. Please consider planting and promoting as much NATIVE habitat as possible. Congrats on the land, I’m in central Alabama
This is great info. I recently bought 35 acres of ridged forest land in Northern Michigan and I’m just establishing food plots now. I’m definitely using your techniques and looking forward to the results.
What about establishing a crop on sandy soil, taking the first step trying to get something to grow, what is the recommended action? Just go ahead and plant? And with time and the release process eventually the soil gets better? Or starting with lime and urea to get a crop to establish and then letting the release process do it’s thing?
I have just discovered your content regarding foodplots I appreciate your explanation and delivery I know nothing of farming I purchased 55 acres of land in upstate New York in 2004 and better late than never I’ve started too try and create a property deer would aspire too stay I can’t get any equipment too the location where my plot is I use a hand held seed spreader a atv too pull my 30 gallon water sprayer too put out herbicides as well as liquid fertilizers using the no plow technique I’ve since planted brassica/ clover on half and peas soybeans and oats on other half I have been following Jeff sturgis and about 3 years ago he actually came to my property to advise what I should do between creating waterholes mock scrapes and hinge cutting trees all this cost a pretty penny the issue I find with Jeff is he repeats himself and it is exhausting at times I will be following you hoping you can help me in my foodplot endeavors
Terry - I visited with a client today that has a large ranch in a part of Oregon that averages 11" of rain annually. This year they've received less than 1". They are willing to change how they've been managing their grazing program! They will start using Virtual Fence collars on cattle so where they graze can be controlled remotely, as well as collecting lots of other data!
Wayne - I've never seen or used one. I understand they are about half the weight - half the steel of other drills and hence half the cost. I often plant green or into a living crop so I need a drill that will cut through the duff. You should try one or read lots of honest reviews before buying one.
Thanks for all the information. I watched many of your videos and feel truly after each one. I have plans to do 3-5 small plots of 1/8 acre each. The open fields haven’t been touched in years. All mix of weeds golden rod and ragweed 5-6’ high. My plan was to mow, spray plan. Am I correct that you said better to spray standing plants , then knock down?
Tom - Glyphosate works on leaf surface area. If weeds are mowed before being treated, there's not much surface area for the herbicide to act. It will be best to treat the weeds first, then broadcast seed. If the weeds fall over after being treated there won't be a need to mow!
So, am I correct to assume that I can follow this process (on a cool weather plot that wasn't planted in the spring): 1. Terminate with glyphosate. 2. After a couple of weeks (dependent on rain), we no till drill in the fall plot mix. 3. The next spring, roller crimp (if few weeds) or glyphosate the plot. 4. After a few more weeks, we no till in the spring plot mix. 5. Rinse & repeat. Does that look about right?
Chris - Yes - but you don't have to wait after using glyphosate. Also, it's much easier to drill into the standing crop when it's about mature and then crimp than try to drill through a thick mulch.
Chris - Cultipackers rarely work well to terminate a crop. They are designed to firm bare soil. Consider driving across a yard - does the smooth tire terminate the grass and weeds? We terminate the standing crop each spring and maybe during the late summer - pending on the amount of browse and what is growing.
Dr. Grant would you be able to do this process with broadcasting the seed instead of drilling? my thought was to plant rye in spring then broadcast summer release and then crimp when the dough stage happens let that grow thru the summer then broadcast fall release and crimp again for a fall plot thanks again
Anthony - Blends are much better for the soil's health and provide quality forage through more of the warm or cool season than monocultures. It would be much better to plant a quality blend that includes cereal rye during the late summer (now pending on the latitude) and then broadcast a summer blend when the soil temps are warm enough. Many of the seeds that are broadcast will germinate but the seedlings will die because the root isn't in the soil. In addition, the mature crop needs to be crimped or layed down to provide mulch for weed suppression. Broadcasting will work but not as well as using the appropriate tools. I broadcast my small-sized hunting plots.
Thanks for the quick reply. Do you have a video or book of some things to rotate in after the summer mix? Is it ok to do the summer mix every year or should it be rotated to something different?
thank you for a great teaching lesson. i have been food plotting on my farm for 13 years. Next year will be my first year of not tilling the soil. My soil is visually poor in substance from the tilling each year. What would be the best plant to start out with next spring to begin this process of no tillage farming?
I’ve watched a ton of your videos and while I understand your concepts it seems like you have two different strategies one is planting soybeans and then drilling into it in the fall the other is this summer release blend. What would be the reasons to do one vs the other.
Tommy - I rarely plant beans these days as deer browse them quickly and damage or kill the crop in food plot-sized fields. Beans are great forage where the fields are large enough. In addition, I don't like all the chemicals usually required to produce beans.
What a great video! I love your content! I have never farmed a day in my life, but I understand the concept that you’re promoting. I can’t help but wonder why more farmers aren’t doing it. I live in Indiana and I’m surrounded by corn and soybean fields. Can the same method to be used for those crops as well?
I live in Northeast Indiana. We are in the same boat with farming. If you purchase a bag of Green Cover seed, it comes with a great “Resource Guide” that tells stories of current farmers implementing cover crops with corn. I great things is that “big picture” Federal and State Ag is pushing for “no-till.” I hope you are doing well fellow Hoosier. ✝️🇺🇸🦌
Thanks Chip! Slowly but surely farmers are adapting these practices. It's tough to change when your income is on the line. In addition, most of the GOV subsidies for farmers aren't valid if they don't use tillage, etc. I believe this will change soon and it will be much better for the farmers, neighbors, wildlife, and the planet!
For 2years now I’ve been planting 50# of buckwheat mid June for approximately 7 weeks to add organic matter to the soil it germinated beautifully but for some reason this year I got a fair share of weeds now I’ve been taught buckwheat is a good smother crop keeping weeds to a minimum just curious do you think I should increase the amount of glyphosate the plot is approximately 3/4 of an acre keeping in mind I spray glyphosate end of may 2 qts then when I seed into the standing buckwheat around 1st week in August I use a lawn roller to knock it down then I spray 1qt glyphosate and still this year lots of weeds what in your opinion what can I do too control the weed growth my plot is going on 3 yrs now
P&S - Glyphosate works best on leaf surface areas. There will be a better kill if you spray before rolling. Some of the weeds won't receive coverage after they are rolled and covered with the mulch - then they will stand back up.
Robert - It's called a Roller Crimper. It's designed to terminate crops that are almost mature - without the use of any herbicide. The laid down crop serves a great mulch to protect the soil and new crop!
Tim - sure! Fescue is tough to terminate and often requires two treatments of herbicide or prescribed fire and herbicide - pending on the time of year.
Jeremy - Most of the liquid fertilizers that I've aware are made from synthetic ingredients. There's likely some organic formulations - but I'm sure they are expensive! Nothing beats living roots year round and a very diverse blend to improve the soil's health.
I was just wondering if that would be a better alternative than using the granular fertilizer because it is actually soaked in the plants vs harming the soil. Just for the 3 years until the soil is back like its supposed to be.
How do I get in touch with you on possibley helping me and my wife to set up a habitat plan for the farm we just recently bought and moved to? It's 134 acers has some old timber and younger grow abiut 20 years. Also has several creeks a few feilds and a river on the back of the property.
Bradley - We enjoy helping folks with habitat and wildlife improvement plans! Write us at info@growingdeer.com and let us know the location of your property and the size. This helps us determine the cost to develop a plan.
It better fits what he's trying to do. I agree this name is much better then the Buffalo system. Also he just changed the seed company he is working with. That might be part of the reason for the name change.
@@GrowingDeerTV, I was just curious as I had not seen you address it anywhere. I saw and knew about the seed company change. I've even purchased some of their seed, but shipping to my area makes it a difficult choice. Thanks for replying.
The 3' Genesis drill costs over $10,000. A 6 ft crimper will run you about $5,000. You will probably want to get creative, as this equipment is beyond the reach of most people who are planting wildlife food plots. Maybe a used grain drill and then build you own crimping equipment? You can find examples of folks taking steel lawn rollers and welding angel iron to the outside to provide the crimping action - not too sure how well it works or holds up over time.
Dr. Grant, thank you. I was going to say this was the first “Wildlife Agricultural” seminar I have watched, but the truth is that every GDTV show you post is just that. I truly get excited when GDTV posts a new video. I pray the Lord continues to bless you and the GDTV Team. ✝️🇺🇸🦌
Thanks Phil! I truly appreciate your prayers for our Team!
That was awesome! I've followed you for many years while living in Thailand. My wife and I have recently bought 350 acres in North Alabama and hope to apply some of what we've learned from you. Thanks so much for you programs.
Congratulations Kirk!!!!!! Stay strong and Free!!! ✝️🇺🇸🦌
You have a great opportunity to improve wildlife for a big area around you. Please consider planting and promoting as much NATIVE habitat as possible. Congrats on the land, I’m in central Alabama
Kirk - Congratulations and I hope you are blessed with a new start!
Great stuff Grant. Really appreciate your insight.
Thanks for sharing your videos and keep them coming please.
We will!
Awesome information, love your teaching and sharing of knowledge and experience. Always learning from you!
Thanks Mike!
Thanks for publishing this! very helpful to see a long form info on the techniques and process you guys have developed
Thanks Timothy!
Thank’s again!👊🏽
Welcome!
very informative video! thanks and keep them coming 👍
Thanks, will do!
Makes me wish I had a ton of land and many decades of life left. Great stuff.
Paul - Thanks and you can start anywhere. Tracy and I started with 13 acres.
This is great info. I recently bought 35 acres of ridged forest land in Northern Michigan and I’m just establishing food plots now. I’m definitely using your techniques and looking forward to the results.
Sounds like a great project!
Another great video. Thanks guys
Thanks Arron!
Thanks a lot!!! God bless!!! Happy hunting!!!
Johnny - thanks for the blessing!
Excellent info as always, Dr. Woods! Thanks!
My pleasure!
Thanks for sharing! Answered many of my questions about this practice
Glad it was helpful!
This was a good video. I hope you do more long videos like this
Thanks! We will!
Thank you, the presentation was awesome
Glad you liked it!
Looking forward to the webinar on native vegetation!
Thanks Timothy!
What about establishing a crop on sandy soil, taking the first step trying to get something to grow, what is the recommended action? Just go ahead and plant? And with time and the release process eventually the soil gets better? Or starting with lime and urea to get a crop to establish and then letting the release process do it’s thing?
Bryan - You can use either plan you described. Using some fertilizer will result in a bit more biomass growth to start the Release Process.
I have just discovered your content regarding foodplots I appreciate your explanation and delivery I know nothing of farming I purchased 55 acres of land in upstate New York in 2004 and better late than never I’ve started too try and create a property deer would aspire too stay I can’t get any equipment too the location where my plot is I use a hand held seed spreader a atv too pull my 30 gallon water sprayer too put out herbicides as well as liquid fertilizers using the no plow technique I’ve since planted brassica/ clover on half and peas soybeans and oats on other half I have been following Jeff sturgis and about 3 years ago he actually came to my property to advise what I should do between creating waterholes mock scrapes and hinge cutting trees all this cost a pretty penny the issue I find with Jeff is he repeats himself and it is exhausting at times I will be following you hoping you can help me in my foodplot endeavors
Sounds like you have a great plan!
Excellent. Would love to see how to tackle the land on Pac NW as we are being hammered with excessive heat and fires.
Check out some of his videos on prescribed fire. I'm sure there is something in one of those that would help.
Praying for y’all over there Sir. ✝️🇺🇸🦌
@@philplasterer1547 Thank you!
Terry - I visited with a client today that has a large ranch in a part of Oregon that averages 11" of rain annually. This year they've received less than 1". They are willing to change how they've been managing their grazing program! They will start using Virtual Fence collars on cattle so where they graze can be controlled remotely, as well as collecting lots of other data!
@@GrowingDeerTV Did not know about Virtual Fence collars-great idea. Thank you.
Dr Grant, what do you think about the tar river 507 no till drill ? It more affordable for the average food plotter. Thank you love your videos
Wayne - I've never seen or used one. I understand they are about half the weight - half the steel of other drills and hence half the cost. I often plant green or into a living crop so I need a drill that will cut through the duff. You should try one or read lots of honest reviews before buying one.
Thanks for all the information. I watched many of your videos and feel truly after each one. I have plans to do 3-5 small plots of 1/8 acre each. The open fields haven’t been touched in years. All mix of weeds golden rod and ragweed 5-6’ high. My plan was to mow, spray plan. Am I correct that you said better to spray standing plants , then knock down?
Tom - Glyphosate works on leaf surface area. If weeds are mowed before being treated, there's not much surface area for the herbicide to act. It will be best to treat the weeds first, then broadcast seed. If the weeds fall over after being treated there won't be a need to mow!
So, am I correct to assume that I can follow this process (on a cool weather plot that wasn't planted in the spring): 1. Terminate with glyphosate. 2. After a couple of weeks (dependent on rain), we no till drill in the fall plot mix. 3. The next spring, roller crimp (if few weeds) or glyphosate the plot. 4. After a few more weeks, we no till in the spring plot mix. 5. Rinse & repeat. Does that look about right?
Chris - Yes - but you don't have to wait after using glyphosate. Also, it's much easier to drill into the standing crop when it's about mature and then crimp than try to drill through a thick mulch.
So I can drill and spray at the same time? So precisely what seed blend are y'all using from Green Cover? Are y'all using the Fall Release blend?
I will be starting my food plots this year and going the route of no till. How often do you terminate with a crimper or cultipacker and reseed?
Chris - Cultipackers rarely work well to terminate a crop. They are designed to firm bare soil. Consider driving across a yard - does the smooth tire terminate the grass and weeds? We terminate the standing crop each spring and maybe during the late summer - pending on the amount of browse and what is growing.
Dr. Grant would you be able to do this process with broadcasting the seed instead of drilling? my thought was to plant rye in spring then broadcast summer release and then crimp when the dough stage happens let that grow thru the summer then broadcast fall release and crimp again for a fall plot thanks again
Anthony - Blends are much better for the soil's health and provide quality forage through more of the warm or cool season than monocultures. It would be much better to plant a quality blend that includes cereal rye during the late summer (now pending on the latitude) and then broadcast a summer blend when the soil temps are warm enough. Many of the seeds that are broadcast will germinate but the seedlings will die because the root isn't in the soil. In addition, the mature crop needs to be crimped or layed down to provide mulch for weed suppression. Broadcasting will work but not as well as using the appropriate tools. I broadcast my small-sized hunting plots.
I have a field full of fescue,Bermuda, bahai grass. Should I drill the mix right in or do I need to terminate those grasses first?
Jeff - those pasture grasses are extremely competitive and will need to be terminated before another crop can be established.
Thanks for the quick reply. Do you have a video or book of some things to rotate in after the summer mix? Is it ok to do the summer mix every year or should it be rotated to something different?
thank you for a great teaching lesson.
i have been food plotting on my farm for 13 years. Next year will be my first year of not tilling the soil. My soil is visually poor in substance from the tilling each year. What would be the best plant to start out with next spring to begin this process of no tillage farming?
James - You will love the results of switching to no till! If the plots are weedy, you will need to use a herbicide to terminate the weeds.
I’ve watched a ton of your videos and while I understand your concepts it seems like you have two different strategies one is planting soybeans and then drilling into it in the fall the other is this summer release blend. What would be the reasons to do one vs the other.
Tommy - I rarely plant beans these days as deer browse them quickly and damage or kill the crop in food plot-sized fields. Beans are great forage where the fields are large enough. In addition, I don't like all the chemicals usually required to produce beans.
What a great video! I love your content!
I have never farmed a day in my life, but I understand the concept that you’re promoting. I can’t help but wonder why more farmers aren’t doing it. I live in Indiana and I’m surrounded by corn and soybean fields. Can the same method to be used for those crops as well?
I live in Northeast Indiana. We are in the same boat with farming. If you purchase a bag of Green Cover seed, it comes with a great “Resource Guide” that tells stories of current farmers implementing cover crops with corn. I great things is that “big picture” Federal and State Ag is pushing for “no-till.” I hope you are doing well fellow Hoosier. ✝️🇺🇸🦌
Thanks Chip! Slowly but surely farmers are adapting these practices. It's tough to change when your income is on the line. In addition, most of the GOV subsidies for farmers aren't valid if they don't use tillage, etc. I believe this will change soon and it will be much better for the farmers, neighbors, wildlife, and the planet!
For 2years now I’ve been planting 50# of buckwheat mid June for approximately 7 weeks to add organic matter to the soil it germinated beautifully but for some reason this year I got a fair share of weeds now I’ve been taught buckwheat is a good smother crop keeping weeds to a minimum just curious do you think I should increase the amount of glyphosate the plot is approximately 3/4 of an acre keeping in mind I spray glyphosate end of may 2 qts then when I seed into the standing buckwheat around 1st week in August I use a lawn roller to knock it down then I spray 1qt glyphosate and still this year lots of weeds what in your opinion what can I do too control the weed growth my plot is going on 3 yrs now
P&S - Glyphosate works best on leaf surface areas. There will be a better kill if you spray before rolling. Some of the weeds won't receive coverage after they are rolled and covered with the mulch - then they will stand back up.
So if I’m reading you correctly I should spread my seed into standing crop whatever it may be then spray glyphosate to it then roll it over
Would a large lawn roller do the same thing?
Robert - It's called a Roller Crimper. It's designed to terminate crops that are almost mature - without the use of any herbicide. The laid down crop serves a great mulch to protect the soil and new crop!
No, the small 1/8" edges on the crimper will do just that to the plants...put crimps in the stems. This crimping action is what terminates the crop.
Can you spray fescue and use it as mulch
Tim - sure! Fescue is tough to terminate and often requires two treatments of herbicide or prescribed fire and herbicide - pending on the time of year.
I need to get/make a crimper.
They are a great tool!
I had a real good food plot this year...its called a garden
The best plot!
Would a liquid fertilizer work for the first few years instead of putting granular fertilizer in the soil to keep it from harming the earthworms
Jeremy - Most of the liquid fertilizers that I've aware are made from synthetic ingredients. There's likely some organic formulations - but I'm sure they are expensive! Nothing beats living roots year round and a very diverse blend to improve the soil's health.
I was just wondering if that would be a better alternative than using the granular fertilizer because it is actually soaked in the plants vs harming the soil. Just for the 3 years until the soil is back like its supposed to be.
What are some good seed blends for upstate ny
Carl - Green Cover's Summer Release and then the Fall Release blends work well there!
How do I get in touch with you on possibley helping me and my wife to set up a habitat plan for the farm we just recently bought and moved to? It's 134 acers has some old timber and younger grow abiut 20 years. Also has several creeks a few feilds and a river on the back of the property.
Bradley - We enjoy helping folks with habitat and wildlife improvement plans! Write us at info@growingdeer.com and let us know the location of your property and the size. This helps us determine the cost to develop a plan.
Thank you I will get right on it
Why the name change to "The Release Process"?
It better fits what he's trying to do. I agree this name is much better then the Buffalo system.
Also he just changed the seed company he is working with. That might be part of the reason for the name change.
@@75thshootist indeed, what Dr. Grant and Green Cover are doing is amazing for Wildlife and Agriculture.
Sherman - Shootist and Phil are correct. As I learned more the Release Process fit better - both for crops and native habitat .
@@GrowingDeerTV, I was just curious as I had not seen you address it anywhere.
I saw and knew about the seed company change. I've even purchased some of their seed, but shipping to my area makes it a difficult choice.
Thanks for replying.
What if you are using a 4wheeler or something and can't afford a huge no till drill
There are 3' drills made to be pulled behind an ATV. Checkout RTPOutdoors.com
The 3' Genesis drill costs over $10,000. A 6 ft crimper will run you about $5,000. You will probably want to get creative, as this equipment is beyond the reach of most people who are planting wildlife food plots. Maybe a used grain drill and then build you own crimping equipment? You can find examples of folks taking steel lawn rollers and welding angel iron to the outside to provide the crimping action - not too sure how well it works or holds up over time.
I mean too say no till not no plow
No biggie!