To replace an ancient worn Ultegra drivetrain, slapped GRX 600 on the rim brake road bike, 105 11spd brifters, 11-34 cassette, 46-30 crankset. I can't say I miss the compact chainring top-end (not racing) and the subcompact gearing has made climbing downright fun again. I've clearance for 30mm tubeless tires and now have a seriously versatile mile munching machine.
First :). Nice video I have 3 cassettes for my Roadmachine that I regularly change out depending on what course I am riding. I am 67 and around 93 kg, so need the lower gearing to get up some of the longer climbs. A couple of my courses have 2000 m climbing over 100 km, and the lower gears just make it a much more enjoyable ride . Advantage is that gives the opportunity to give the chain a deep clean when when removing it to swap cassettes
You're not gonna be slower on flats assuming you're truly strong enough to be using the 11 teeth on a flat. I personally can only use the 11teeth on a downhill. It's gonna be the same speed because we rarely get the chance to use the 11 teeth unless you become a thigh muscle weight lifter
I think this would have been MUCH easier for the non-technical viewer to understand if some actual visual aids would have been used. I.E. actually holding various cassettes and front cranks in her hands and pointing out the different bits she was spouting off. As it was I bet the average non-technical cyclist would have been having glazed eyes (and ears) by the second or third minute of the video.
Been running 25/40*11-32 for a while. Wanting to look like Rog and Pog going up a climb, means your average cyclist pushing a gear when it's clear they have not go the w/kg to do so - that's pride for you.
That's the way to go. Cycling is a very low impact sport. Someone with great lung capacity will not be able to compete with someone who has weight training strength along with gold lung capacity. Cycling world is full of anti tech people UCI who believed small gears are the only way to go because that's what pros do. Then you hilariously see the pros struggling to get up hills and bobbing up and down trying to brute strength a tiny cassette.
I live in the Alps and gearing for both climbing and descending, plus an experimenting mindset have led to the following set ups that I consider ideal for a reasonably fit rider who prefers a highish cadence (90 or more), in case of interest.. Always better to have “more gears” than less, in any case ? : ua-cam.com/video/MucyLrHZR2c/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Rv1dCIgj5BA/v-deo.html
Why do most wide range 11-speed cassettes start with the 11T cog ? And those that start with the 12T cog only have a highest gear of 28T ? *13-30* : 13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-27-30 *14-32* : 14-15-16-17-18-20-22-24-26-29-32 *14-34* : 14-15-16-17-18-20-22-24-27-30-34 If Shimano made those cassettes at 105 level, they would sell tonnes of them. 95% of us don't do a constant 50 km/h on the flat so 11 and 12 cogs are mostly useless. I would sacrifice the extra grams of weight and slight loss on the flat for the gains on the climbs and having a larger get-out-of-jail gear for when you're knackered on the ascents. It doesn't make sense that I have to choose between an Ultegra 14-28 or Dura Ace 12-28 cassette to avoid the (useless*) 11 T cog on my cassette. (*at least for me)
11 is used because most people can't stay on this tiny gear for too long without being exhausted. It's a downhill gear. And the thing about downhill is that you're better off coasting aero than to pedal at all.
To replace an ancient worn Ultegra drivetrain, slapped GRX 600 on the rim brake road bike, 105 11spd brifters, 11-34 cassette, 46-30 crankset. I can't say I miss the compact chainring top-end (not racing) and the subcompact gearing has made climbing downright fun again. I've clearance for 30mm tubeless tires and now have a seriously versatile mile munching machine.
First :). Nice video I have 3 cassettes for my Roadmachine that I regularly change out depending on what course I am riding. I am 67 and around 93 kg, so need the lower gearing to get up some of the longer climbs. A couple of my courses have 2000 m climbing over 100 km, and the lower gears just make it a much more enjoyable ride . Advantage is that gives the opportunity to give the chain a deep clean when when removing it to swap cassettes
This old geezer went from 11-28 to 11-34 for my bike. Ain’t as fast on the flats, but helps me get up the hills!
If you kept the 11 why would you be slower on flats?
What he said 🤦🏼♂️
I misspoke. On the rollers, in the mid range, as the ratio is lower (higher numerically). Front is 50/34.
@@Zardoz125 You can compensate by increasing your RPM.
You're not gonna be slower on flats assuming you're truly strong enough to be using the 11 teeth on a flat.
I personally can only use the 11teeth on a downhill.
It's gonna be the same speed because we rarely get the chance to use the 11 teeth unless you become a thigh muscle weight lifter
I think this would have been MUCH easier for the non-technical viewer to understand if some actual visual aids would have been used. I.E. actually holding various cassettes and front cranks in her hands and pointing out the different bits she was spouting off. As it was I bet the average non-technical cyclist would have been having glazed eyes (and ears) by the second or third minute of the video.
50/34 with 11/36 works perfect with Shimano Ultegra Di2, no micro adjustment needed.
Never seen aore helpful video ❤
Cam-pan-yo-lo............👍
Me chorus has a 52/36 with a 11-34 and it works like a charm.
Put a 11-34 on my Tiagra 4700 gs 10sp which is the Max it can take in comb with 50-34. Shifts beautifully but had to put on a new chain.
Absorbing what she says so fast is as difficult as reading the credits at the end of the American TV programs.
Wow, I wonder how many takes it took for Ms Charlton to get all of this stuff correct.
Thanks 🙏🏼
Been running 25/40*11-32 for a while.
Wanting to look like Rog and Pog going up a climb, means your average cyclist pushing a gear when it's clear they have not go the w/kg to do so - that's pride for you.
Said with a slur and lisp: "I just won da math debate!"
Great advice can't wait 10 to 12 weeks to try out a new cassette! Why not weight lift and diet to climb up hill faster?
That's the way to go. Cycling is a very low impact sport.
Someone with great lung capacity will not be able to compete with someone who has weight training strength along with gold lung capacity.
Cycling world is full of anti tech people UCI who believed small gears are the only way to go because that's what pros do. Then you hilariously see the pros struggling to get up hills and bobbing up and down trying to brute strength a tiny cassette.
Very nice.
At 4.20 my mind was boggled.......
It's always 4:20.
Brain boggled. Time for a word salad.
: )
@@tinhatrancher904 Hahaha
Right,
This is all assuming you can get hold of the parts
Anyone not talking about campagnolo disgusts me
Huge!…..gears
I live in the Alps and gearing for both climbing and descending, plus an experimenting mindset have led to the following set ups that I consider ideal for a reasonably fit rider who prefers a highish cadence (90 or more), in case of interest.. Always better to have “more gears” than less, in any case ? :
ua-cam.com/video/MucyLrHZR2c/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Rv1dCIgj5BA/v-deo.html
5:07 wth
ditch the disc brakes!
As clear as mud, what language were you speaking?
She clearly knows what she's talking about.
Why do most wide range 11-speed cassettes start with the 11T cog ? And those that start with the 12T cog only have a highest gear of 28T ?
*13-30* : 13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25-27-30
*14-32* : 14-15-16-17-18-20-22-24-26-29-32
*14-34* : 14-15-16-17-18-20-22-24-27-30-34
If Shimano made those cassettes at 105 level, they would sell tonnes of them. 95% of us don't do a constant 50 km/h on the flat so 11 and 12 cogs are mostly useless. I would sacrifice the extra grams of weight and slight loss on the flat for the gains on the climbs and having a larger get-out-of-jail gear for when you're knackered on the ascents.
It doesn't make sense that I have to choose between an Ultegra 14-28 or Dura Ace 12-28 cassette to avoid the (useless*) 11 T cog on my cassette. (*at least for me)
You can custom one using a Miche SH cassette. They come in individual sprockets. It is an expensive solution.
11 is used because most people can't stay on this tiny gear for too long without being exhausted. It's a downhill gear. And the thing about downhill is that you're better off coasting aero than to pedal at all.