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Hyundai Santa Fe Rear Axle Seal and Viscous Coupling Replacement
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- Опубліковано 10 сер 2023
- 2010 Santa Fe in for hopefully the last repairs.
Torn Axle Seals replacement and changing out a burned out Viscous Coupling... The part is over $1800 CAD but there are knock off ones out there on Amazon for a 3rd the cost. You decide how much its worth to you.
#repair
#hyundai
I need to tackle this job in the next few days. This video helps me a lot. I assumed I would need to separate the hubs to remove the drive shafts.
Glad it helped
Were you able to get one of these Viscous things installed?
Didja have to take the hubs off? No.
What were the symptoms of the faulty coupler? I have a specific problem that I was assuming was the Viscous coupler and have found one locally that I might purchase, but given the symptoms that people are speaking of in the comments, it might not be the coupler. When I accelerate in my 2012 3.5l se, my rear end will thump all the way to high speeds. It only happens at slow to regular acceleration, between the 0-2,500 rpm range. If I accelerate quickly there are no thumps. Happens more when warm. No binding or noises when turning. If I let off the gas at high way speeds and put the gas back on. It goes away. Would you be willing to provide some input since you've worked on these and may have an answer as to what I can look at for the cause of this problem?
In the case of this car the main complaint was during acceleration it would lunge as the power was trying to go to the rear wheels then slip and change back to the front wheels.
@SchnebsGarage OK. It's possible mine could be a joint or bearing for the crank shaft. If I had to guess, for some reason, it feels more on the right side. It's weird that it only happens at certain speeds and will thump more as I approach higher speed. Sometimes, it happens more than other times, too. Even when going perfectly straight.
@@dknowbeatz3665 Did you check your CV axle? It sounds almost like a CV going but not exactly, they usually make a clicking sound at low speeds but get quiet at higher speed. Just a thought.
Those spring arms look good compared to the sub frame. I had to replace a spring arm as it was like Swiss cheese. Thankfully, my diff is still dry, no leaks or no oil, lol.
Thank You 👍
You are welcome! Thanks for watching
Is there a diagnostic procedure for the viscous coupling? I have a 2013 Santa Fe that feels like the rear is binding while turning either direction from a complete stop. The diff fluid was just changed (old was clear without debris or metal shavings) and the cv shafts look good.
2013 has a slightly different V-Coupling than the one in this video. Uses a motor instead of the electro magnet on the earlier models. So short answer yes, the scan tool will have a diagnostic function. Also the diff fluid is not connected in any way to the VC, they are self contained units with their own fluid.
@@SchnebsGarage Thank you!
@@SchnebsGarage When you replaced the coupler did you have to use a scan tool to have the computer relearn the viscous coupler.
@@yunusbuffins5729 I did use a Launch scanner on this, but this version (electromagnet) didn't need anything to 'recognize' the coupling. I think the newer version with the motor (pump) does need a scan to work but don't quote me on that as I haven't done one yet.
@@SchnebsGarage That’s what I’ve been reading. Thank you for your response.
I Have hyundai palisade , has a viscous coupler trouble and changed by warranty.. now Im worried thats happen again someday.. is there any way to disable the awd system safely and change to fwd?
I believe if you turn off ECO mode it'll run in rear wheel only but I'm not 100% on that. Check your owners manual it should have that info.
@@SchnebsGarage noo it's fwd and if i turn eco mode awd still On
Anyone know what kind of fluid this is you put into the differential? I have a 2008 toyta rav4 and it took me SO LONG to finally find the name of the part ket alone a vodeos on this exact matter.
75W90 is what goes in the santa fe, and your 08 Toyota Rav 4
I have 2012 sante fe with 3.5 with 100k miles. Something in the rear end is binding up when going around turns. Slower speeds its worse and sounds really bad. It also sometimes feels like its in 4wd lock diff then it suddenly breaks free. Any suggestions?
Oh based on the history of these things its most likely the viscous coupler ... or you could be low on differential fluid. I'd check the fluid before replacing the coupler. Its one of those things that a code reader seldom shows as a fault unless its purely electrical.
@@SchnebsGarage I have the same issue with my Santa Fe 2010 AWD GLS 146K miles. From rear, a loud clunk on low speeds and when slowly turns. Someone said repalce the trasnfer case, diffential, rear axle. What's your recomendation first.? Thanks.
@@carlosmdelzo7044 check fluid in differential first then the viscous coupler... they are a known issue on these models
@@carlosmdelzo7044 mine acts up more during long duration drives. Short trips it doesn't do it but long trips or when I'm running the santa fe a lot is when it does it.
@@SchnebsGarage differential fluid was verified and changed but the issue still going on. What do you think about transfer case fluid?
Why this car have so many different diffs the one that mine have I can’t find it anywhere it also have 3 bolts like yours but it’s smaller it looks nothing like yours and it have a sensor on it.
Yes, Hyundai seemed to change the design about every 3 years on these machines. Its annoying for sure.
Is there a bunch of stinky old gear oil inside that viscous coupler?
Yea at 8:00 or so I took the VC apart and mentioned the smell.
@@SchnebsGarage yeah, wasn't sure if you meant the smell of the burnt clutch or if it was gear oil. Thank you for the great video! I just changed my coupler with your help.
@@ourkid2000 awesome, glad it helped.