Zone Valve Replacement: Hydronic Heating System
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 лис 2017
- How to replace a zone valve on a hydronic heating system.
Honeywell V8043D1197/U replacement on baseboard heating.
Normally open 3/8" NPT less end switch.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
Honeywell Zone Valve: geni.us/EfuZ
𝗦𝘂𝗽𝗽𝗼𝗿𝘁
Want to support my channel or give back? Help me improve on these DIY videos by making a financial contribution. All contributions no matter how small are greatly appreciated!
ko-fi.com/prosdiy
Thank you!
𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗻𝗲𝗰𝘁
More DIY videos! www.prosdiy.com
Facebook: / prosdiy
Instagram: / prosdiy
Subscribe: / prosdiy
Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/prosdiy
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
Videos produced by Pros DIY (www.prosdiy.com) are provided for informational purposes only. Please check with all national, state, provincial, and local codes and regulations before attempting any work. Pros DIY does not assume any responsibility or liability for any damage or injury from the information provided in our videos. Please hire a licensed, certified, professional.
Heading West by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Artist: audionautix.com/ - Навчання та стиль
Just like my system - thank you for this video!
So sweet helps me a lot.
Great video. Exactly what I need to do. Can you tell me which video is the one you mentioned that explains the description on the zone valve box?
thanhs for you help and with I ' m need Exactly what I want to do .
i dont have that upstream/downstream shutoffs in my apartment .my apartment thermostat wont work lol
Hi! Great video. very helpful. At 6:24 you say that the final step is to purge the system of air introduced when changing the zone valve. Is the air purged just by turning the thermostat up and letting it run or is there an additional step to purge the air in another video? Thx!!
Thank you Lili! In a properly installed/designed system by turning up the thermostat the air will purge on it's own as you mentioned. Most hydronic heating systems have auto air vents at the high points in the system, which will automatically purge the air that was introduced into the system. Some systems have manual air purging devices which have to be turned to release the air. This is why I mentioned to make sure the air is purged from the system. Unfortunately I don't have a video on this yet. I good way to tell if there's air trapped in the system is that the circulating water/fluid will be noisy or the heat transfer will be low (pipes or radiators won't be hot). Hope this helps out. Let me know if you have any questions. Thank you!
@@PROSDIY thank you so much. I’m going to try the thermostat then and see if that does the trick. As of now I have the ac on because I’m dying of heat in here.
@@PROSDIY If the zone valve is hot, but the pipe and fin are cold, is it the zone valve problem?
Is there anyway to test a zone valve like this with a meter? I ran across a Spartan two wire zone valve I attempted to check continuity on, and got nothing. When I ohm’d it out it read high resistance which I believe is a sign it is still good. 24VAC plunger style zone valve
Hi, I've got a 4 wire zone valve. I'm a little bit confused on the other 2 red wires.
Hello, Thanks for the video. I noticed one wire was not reconnected, looked like the black wire. Is this not important? Thanks
Hello Bucky Mah, In some cases the rough-in installer will run extra wires. It is very common in apartment buildings, such as this one. The reasoning is that if one of the wires was to have a short, it could be switched over to the spare one. So in this case the black wire isn't being used and is a spare. Thanks for the question!
Do you have instructions on the last instructions (pressure and air)?
Hi guys, I have a normally open honeywell valve, is there anyway to manually close it, or test if the valve is working? Currently my unit is 30°C and I haven't been able to lower the temperature.
My thermostat is an ecobee, but checking other comment you posted the wiring should be R and Y...why? Y wire isn't supposed to be for firing up the AC? My wires are on R and W, should I switch it to Y? Please help!!! And thanks!
You have a forced air thermostat you need hot water heating
Do we have to turn off the breaker before undoing the wiring?
Hi johnygogo, thank you for the question. If the breaker or power source is accessible, I recommend turning it off before working on the wiring. This is mainly to protect the thermostat. If there's a thermostat with an anticipator installed in the circuit, the disconnecting and connecting of the wiring to the zone valve could possibly cause damage to the anticipator. Since it is 24 volt, low amp wiring you don't need to worry about getting shocked.
In this video the zone valve featured was in an apartment complex with the power source (24 volt transformers) behind locked doors. To get around this I opened the electrical circuit by cutting the power at the thermostat. If you have a normally open zone valve (takes power to close the zone valve) you would adjust the thermostat to the hottest setting to open the electrical circuit and cut power. If you have a normally closed zone valve (takes power to open the zone valve) you would adjust the thermostat to the coldest setting to open the electrical circuit and cut power.
Good luck on your project!
Can you please tell me if the slider on zone valve can be set halfway or does it have to be either all the way closed or all the way open. For some reason it’s so hot in my apartment this year. Windows are open and I’m still sweating. My thermostat is not turning the heat down or it’s the zone valve. Landlord died and son in law might of set heat too high. By the time he’d get someone out here it will be spring. I always have to bleed and open valve for winter but I’m dying here. 🥵 Thank you
There's no halfway setting for a normally closed zone valve (one with the lever). The lever locked in place is fully open and not locked in place it is controlled with the thermostat. It sounds like the thermostat may be faulty. A normally closed zone valve is in the closed position (no flow/heat) when the power is cut to the zone valve and it takes power to open it. If the thermostat is constantly sending power to the zone valve it will never close and become very hot. Hopefully this helped some. Thanks for the question!
How to close the valve manualy
Hi Kakim, do you have a Honeywell zone valve as seen in the video? To manually close a normally closed Honeywell zone valve you can either lower the thermostat to the lowest setting or disconnect the power to the zone valve (Thermostat should be connected to R and W). To close a normally open Honeywell zone valve, the valve needs to be energized or powered. Lowering the thermostat will power and close the zone valve. (Thermostat should be connected to R and Y). To visually check which zone valve you have, the normally closed Honeywell zone valve will have a small lever on the side to manually open the valve, and the Honeywell normal open zone valve won't. If you have a brand other than Honeywell, you can let me know and I'll hopefully be able to help you out. Thanks
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
Honeywell Zone Valve: geni.us/EfuZ
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
Hi, I've got a 4 wire zone valve. I'm a little bit confused on the other 2 red wires.