I had the opportunity to buy a one-owner 2003 SSR, Slingshot Yellow, as in this video. The car has been sitting outside in the New England area for approximately two years. I was very suspicious in purchasing the vehicle but, I made and offer and it was accepted. These videos, especially the roof top maintenance has instilled some confidence in my purchase of this vehicle as so few, in my mind, were produced. All comments on-line were of a positive mindset in owning one of these. I haven't yet drove it as it is in the garage being gone through due to it's outside storage. This roof top maintenance will educate me. Thank you.
I recently purchase a 2004 SSR with just over 8,000 miles. Terrific vehicle and owned by a true car-guy who added many of the things shown in your videos including bracing to the frame, radiator deflectors, hood struts and many more. The roof operation however is requiring some adjustments and I am working on that to rectify and feel confident that it will get accomplished. This video is a great one that I will use to maintain and also will assist me in my adjustments. Thank-you
Thank you so much! Excellent video! Very professional! Highly detailed! You saved me $30k - $35k. I'm no longer in the market for an SSR. I've been looking for an SSR and I postulated there were potential problems with the roof and it's mechanisms. Too many things to go wrong! That said, it's a very cool piece of machinery!
This is a great video thank you for sharing this I’ve just purchased an 03 SSR and the top just stopped working I looked down in the cover and can see that the fluid looks low it’s less than half full in the container so I’m hoping that that’s all it is wrong with it
The pump fluid tank does not get filled to the top of the tank, make sure you follow the guide lines (or dots) on the side of the fluid tank when checking the fluid level. When the roof "just stops working" usually there is some sort of error message on the driver information center (DIC) in the instrument panel about one or more error conditions that were encountered. If there are no messages in the DIC, then make sure you check the "RDM 2" fuse in the rear/center console fuse box and sometimes removing the two silver relays located at the very top of the rear/center console fuse box for about 30 seconds will revive the totally dead roof system (if it's an electrical issue). There are numerous things that can prevent the roof from working, but most all of those will result in an error message being displayed in the DIC.
THANKS GREAT INFO i have a problem is there any way to open the roof top without the tool or is there any other tools to replace the tool to do the same function or if i did remove everything in the head liner and the motor? thanks waiting your kind reply
The roof tool is used to rotate the roof header latch motor/assembly to unlatch the roof on the front end. The cables to unlatch the tonneau cover could be most anything since you're pulling on the cables. I believe that Simple Engineering, LLC sells an aftermarket tool that functions just like the factory tool. shop.simple-engineering.com/product.sc?productId=131&categoryId=-1 I hope that helps.
I do have a Cadillac XLR it's much easier to work on I do have 2 sensors in the head roof not working while h is hard to find here but I can order them is the SSR have the same sensors and switches or is it different ? Can u plz email me the pix you said u wanna send. Me 2 alone the trunk lid am new to the SSR but I always wanted one and I got it its 2003 with 35000 km I did read in ur post about changing to leds I do have 2 have a resistor but am trying to find a relay which will b easier I guess do u sale the wind deflector? Thanks again for your kind help .
By the way I can't register on ur site coz its asking for the address and zip code in US which am based on UNITED ARAB EMIRATES DUBAI so u know if ull ship me anything wer or will b going and how much it will cost am open for any advice as ur a goro in SSR
To manually open/close the roof you need two people to safely perform that operation. Since I'm a one man operation, most of the time I don't have anyone around to assist with that process to attempt to film it. It is covered in the owner's manual (2006 model year starting on page 2-48). The use of the cables to release the roof tonneau cover can be quite problematic. The alternative to release the roof tonneau cover is to unbolt the side brackets by reaching through the opening to remove the two 10mm headed bolts that secure the bracket to the inside of the tonneau cover. Then following the directions as stated in the owner's manual.
How do you go about holding your roof and position for maintenance. Went to. Doing it and it did hold.But when I went to put it down I had to push it down manually. Other times I did it and it just held for a little bit and then went back down into the storage on its own very dangerous. Wouldn't be nice to be able to put it in a position for car shows.But don't wanna get stuck with not being able to put it down manually. Please tell me how I can do this and put it back down with the controls. Without having to push it down by hand. And be freaking out.
It's a balancing act to get the roof to "stay in place" mid-cycle. There's no official way to keep it in a fixed position (mid-cycle) for a car show. If the ignition switch is in the "Run" position, the roof tends to hold its position, but you don't want to leave your SSR ignition switch in the "Run" (engine off) for extended periods of time. If you stop the roof movement mid-cycle, the roof door module (RDM) will be able to resume the movement of the roof later on by using the roof button on the center console. The RDM understands where the roof panels are in the process of putting the roof up/down, so it can resume that process at any time.
Yes, i'm working on getting me a Chevrolet SSR I found one a cool color is 17,000 a fair milage I found a yellow one like yours it had 1000 and something on it and if i'm blessed to get one I think the metal frame support that you installed is a good idea however you wouldn't recommend spot welding the metal plate on the body of the vehicle?
A SSR with only 17,000 miles on it is a low mileage vehicle so hopefully it's in good condition. The front frame stiffening plate and the 4-bolt rear cross member upgrades to the SSR make a huge difference in how it drives. I wouldn't think spot welding would necessary for those items. I'm not quite sure what/where you're stating you would spot weld anything, but it wouldn't be on my list of suggestions for the SSR. I know of a SSR owner the created his own tubular rear cross member that was quite impressive and it was secured to a large area of the frame more than the 4-bolt cross member. I would also recommend replacing the plastic lower radiator brace with a metal one as well to better protect the bottom of the radiator from road debris
The "Roof Cycle Timeout" message is unfortunately the most generic error message the roof system can generate. A roof cycle timeout simply means some step in the process of unlatching/latching/moving one of the roof components did not move from position "A" (where it started) to position "B" (where it needs to move to) within the expected amount of time that the Roof Door Module (RDM) expects it to complete that step. Steps include: 1) windows clearing the seals (moving down to clear the window seals) 2) roof storage compartment lid (tonneau cover) latches unlatch and the lid is moved to its open position 3) the header latch motor (at the center of the area just above the windshield) unlatches the two latches from the header 4) the tonneau cover's extension panel is extended to raise the panel up and out of the of the way of the soon to be moving roof panels, 5) the top's hydraulic cylinders retract to move the top into the storage compartment 6) the tonneau cover is closed and the side latches (TLAT) are once again engaged to latch the tonneau cover in place It is strongly recommended to have the engine running while opening/closing the roof since it does draw a good amount of electrical power to operate the roof. I have observed that the tonneau cover's seals can get a little stuck to the cover if the roof has not been opened in a while or the seals have not been maintained with the dielectric grease mentioned in the video. If that is the thing not opening quick enough (you have the windows rolling down and you hear the latches unlatch in the roof storage area) you might pause the roof opening process and go out and gently try to lift the tonneau cover a small amount on both sides of the SSR and then resume the roof opening process. If there is some sort of latch that has not operated quickly enough or at all usually the DIC (Driver Information Center) display will have a TLAT or HLAT error message. If necessary, there is a process to manually unlatch and open/close the roof, but it requires two people and the use of the roof tool (comes with the SSR) and the proper pulling on the unlatching / latching cables for the roof which are located in the cab of the SSR behind the seats at their base and behind a small carpet plug/cutout. If you need additional assistance, it might be easier to speak on the phone. Please send an email to info@retrocarguy530.com with your contact info and a preferred date/time for a phone conversation.
The 2005/2006 SSR with the 6.0L LS2 engine tends to be the preferred model years. The extra 90 to 100 hp with that engine does make a difference. The 2003/2004 model years with the 5.3L 300 hp engine is ok as well, but it is nice to have the larger engine.
@@Mrjmhill the entire used car market is priced extremely high right now. The SSR total production being just over 24K makes it a bit of a rarity (in general) and then when you add in the subgroups like the NASCAR pace trucks you'll probably pay a lot for one right now. If I were to purchase another SSR (again these are my preferences), I would likely try to find a nice condition 2006 2SS or 3SS trim level in Pacific Blue or a two tone of my liking. I did own a 2006 SSR with 3SS trim level and it was a black over silver two tone. I REALLY miss that one!
If you release the roof button during the up/down movement of the roof, the roof will "stay" in that position as long as the ignition switch is still on. If the ignition switch is turned off, the pump and related hydraulic circuits will be unpressurized and the roof will move "freely". I can't say that having the roof in the "middle" of going up/down necessarily provides better/easier access to the pump fluid reservoir. You could stop the movement of the roof going down right after the tonneau cover fully lifts up and the flipper panel fully lifts upward, leaving the roof in the full up position. The other position might be with the roof fully down in the storage area, but before the tonneau cover and flipper panel is lowered to cover the roof storage area. The tonneau cover should remain in the position it was last placed at whether or not the ignition switch is on or off.
The roof fluid reservoir tank and pump are located inside of the roof storage area in the lower center section. The fill plug is on the driver's side of the tank. The video shows that side of the tank beginning at 6:47 in the video. I might recommend lowering the roof into the storage area but stop the process before it lowers the tonneau cover over the storage area. On the driver's side look down and towards the center and you should see the tank and the brass fill plug I show in the video.
Most powertrain parts can be sourced from any parts supplier that has Chevy Trailblazer parts for those same model years as the SSR. Chevy SSR specific body panels and roof parts tend to be limited (in the U.S.) to a couple of wrecking yards: Cleveland Power & Performance: www.clevelandpap.com Schram Auto Parts: www.schramauto.com/ A good source for SSR specific parts is from Simple Engineering, LLC in Phoenix Arizona: simple-engineering.com
You press the roof down button until it reaches the position you want it to stop and then release the button. In most cases, the roof panels will remain in that position. If the roof is open just beyond its midway opening point, releasing the button and turning off the key/engine will let the roof panels to gently drop into the roof storage area.
Depending on what kind of help you need with your SSR's roof, you might be able to find info or assistance from fellow SSR owners on the www.ssrfanatic.com website or the "SSR Fanatics" Facebook group facebook.com/groups/86158897189 The SSR roof has a large number of components that all must work correctly and together to accomplish the roof movement task. You can also send an email to info@retrocarguy530.com with the symptoms of what's wrong with the roof and I will try to give some pointers, but keep in mind an in person inspection of several of the roof's components may be required to properly diagnose or make informed suggestions on how to resolve your roof's issue(s).
There are a wide variety of reasons the Chevy SSR roof may stop working. I might suggest checking out the www.ssrfanatic.com website for additional info and you might want to create a thread on that website describing what's not working and there are several people on that site that will try to offer assistance.
Hi Tony. Sorry to hear that your SSR has roof/window problems. When you say "will not go down" does that mean from all input sources? Windows don't index downward when a door is opened? Windows won't roll down when the center console button is pushed to roll down that window? Windows don't roll down when you attempt to put the roof up or down? Roof does or does not attempt to move the roof to the up or down position? If the answer to all of those is "Yes, the window(s) don't move in this manner" then there's either a power source problem to the center console or the RDM (Roof Door Module) fuse or the RDM itself has some problems. RDMs don't usually fail, but I have seen a couple of them fail and one just a couple of months ago. I'm assuming there is power going to the radio and other devices supplied power by the center console fuse box, correct? If there are other items not working as well, there is a 125 amp fuse just to the front of the engine bay fuse box that supplies power to the center console fuse box. I've heard of those failing, but the symptom is multiple items supplied power by the center console fuse box won't be working since the fuse supplying power to center fuse box had failed. If other things are working that are supplied power by the center console fuse box, then the issue is likely RDM or center shift/button console specific. If the windows do index downward when the door is opened and index upward when the door is closed, then the RDM is at least somewhat functional. If that is true but the windows don't roll down when the button is pushed on the center console then it could be a faulty or gummed up button contact pad in the center console assembly. If the roof is non responsive and the windows are completely non responsive, then it's likely a power supply problem to the RDM or the RDM itself. I have observed a reviving of the RDM by swapping the two silver relay/fuses at the top of the center console fuse box. Don't know why that worked on that particular SSR, but it did, so you might give that a try as well (pull them out and wait about 30 seconds and then insert them again swapping spots). Check the center console fuse box fuse for the RDM itself and verify that it is good. If your SSR has the cargo area carpet kit with the cargo cover light, check the wiring for that and the bulb making sure there's no signs of burning or any other sort of failure. The cargo cover light's circuit board has an input into the RDM and it has been the source of the RDM to getting confused or cause the RDM to fail. I hope that helps.
I had the opportunity to buy a one-owner 2003 SSR, Slingshot Yellow, as in this video. The car has been sitting outside in the New England area for approximately two years. I was very suspicious in purchasing the vehicle but, I made and offer and it was accepted. These videos, especially the roof top maintenance has instilled some confidence in my purchase of this vehicle as so few, in my mind, were produced. All comments on-line were of a positive mindset in owning one of these. I haven't yet drove it as it is in the garage being gone through due to it's outside storage. This roof top maintenance will educate me. Thank you.
I recently purchase a 2004 SSR with just over 8,000 miles. Terrific vehicle and owned by a true car-guy who added many of the things shown in your videos including bracing to the frame, radiator deflectors, hood struts and many more. The roof operation however is requiring some adjustments and I am working on that to rectify and feel confident that it will get accomplished. This video is a great one that I will use to maintain and also will assist me in my adjustments. Thank-you
Thank you so much! Excellent video! Very professional! Highly detailed! You saved me $30k - $35k. I'm no longer in the market for an SSR. I've been looking for an SSR and I postulated there were potential problems with the roof and it's mechanisms. Too many things to go wrong! That said, it's a very cool piece of machinery!
all convertibles look complex. The people who work on them all the time are not afraid.
Your videos are excellent thank you for sharing them with us
This a very helpful and outstanding video, Thanks for sharing
I just got a 2003 with a hydraulic leak so these tips are definitely interesting
This is a great video thank you for sharing this I’ve just purchased an 03 SSR and the top just stopped working I looked down in the cover and can see that the fluid looks low it’s less than half full in the container so I’m hoping that that’s all it is wrong with it
The pump fluid tank does not get filled to the top of the tank, make sure you follow the guide lines (or dots) on the side of the fluid tank when checking the fluid level. When the roof "just stops working" usually there is some sort of error message on the driver information center (DIC) in the instrument panel about one or more error conditions that were encountered. If there are no messages in the DIC, then make sure you check the "RDM 2" fuse in the rear/center console fuse box and sometimes removing the two silver relays located at the very top of the rear/center console fuse box for about 30 seconds will revive the totally dead roof system (if it's an electrical issue). There are numerous things that can prevent the roof from working, but most all of those will result in an error message being displayed in the DIC.
@@RetroCarGuy530 thank you for the information to get me started on it I appreciate it and all the great videos
Thank u for the info
THANKS GREAT INFO i have a problem is there any way to open the roof top without the tool or is there any other tools to replace the tool to do the same function or if i did remove everything in the head liner and the motor? thanks waiting your kind reply
The roof tool is used to rotate the roof header latch motor/assembly to unlatch the roof on the front end. The cables to unlatch the tonneau cover could be most anything since you're pulling on the cables. I believe that Simple Engineering, LLC sells an aftermarket tool that functions just like the factory tool. shop.simple-engineering.com/product.sc?productId=131&categoryId=-1
I hope that helps.
Hi so what ur trying 2 say that there is no other way to open the the roof top without the release tool ?
The SSR roof tool has a unique shape to it. You cannot substitute another tool to perform the task of unlatching the header latch assembly.
I do have a Cadillac XLR it's much easier to work on I do have 2 sensors in the head roof not working while h is hard to find here but I can order them is the SSR have the same sensors and switches or is it different ? Can u plz email me the pix you said u wanna send. Me 2 alone the trunk lid am new to the SSR but I always wanted one and I got it its 2003 with 35000 km I did read in ur post about changing to leds I do have 2 have a resistor but am trying to find a relay which will b easier I guess do u sale the wind deflector? Thanks again for your kind help .
By the way I can't register on ur site coz its asking for the address and zip code in US which am based on UNITED ARAB EMIRATES DUBAI so u know if ull ship me anything wer or will b going and how much it will cost am open for any advice as ur a goro in SSR
Any way to open manually when they dont work? No body has videos about it.
To manually open/close the roof you need two people to safely perform that operation. Since I'm a one man operation, most of the time I don't have anyone around to assist with that process to attempt to film it.
It is covered in the owner's manual (2006 model year starting on page 2-48). The use of the cables to release the roof tonneau cover can be quite problematic. The alternative to release the roof tonneau cover is to unbolt the side brackets by reaching through the opening to remove the two 10mm headed bolts that secure the bracket to the inside of the tonneau cover. Then following the directions as stated in the owner's manual.
How do you go about holding your roof and position for maintenance. Went to.
Doing it and it did hold.But when I went to put it down I had to push it down manually. Other times I did it and it just held for a little bit and then went back down into the storage on its own very dangerous. Wouldn't be nice to be able to put it in a position for car shows.But don't wanna get stuck with not being able to put it down manually. Please tell me how I can do this and put it back down with the controls. Without having to push it down by hand. And be freaking out.
It's a balancing act to get the roof to "stay in place" mid-cycle. There's no official way to keep it in a fixed position (mid-cycle) for a car show. If the ignition switch is in the "Run" position, the roof tends to hold its position, but you don't want to leave your SSR ignition switch in the "Run" (engine off) for extended periods of time.
If you stop the roof movement mid-cycle, the roof door module (RDM) will be able to resume the movement of the roof later on by using the roof button on the center console. The RDM understands where the roof panels are in the process of putting the roof up/down, so it can resume that process at any time.
Yes, i'm working on getting me a Chevrolet SSR I found one a cool color is 17,000 a fair milage I found a yellow one like yours it had 1000 and something on it and if i'm blessed to get one I think the metal frame support that you installed is a good idea however you wouldn't recommend spot welding the metal plate on the body of the vehicle?
A SSR with only 17,000 miles on it is a low mileage vehicle so hopefully it's in good condition. The front frame stiffening plate and the 4-bolt rear cross member upgrades to the SSR make a huge difference in how it drives. I wouldn't think spot welding would necessary for those items. I'm not quite sure what/where you're stating you would spot weld anything, but it wouldn't be on my list of suggestions for the SSR. I know of a SSR owner the created his own tubular rear cross member that was quite impressive and it was secured to a large area of the frame more than the 4-bolt cross member. I would also recommend replacing the plastic lower radiator brace with a metal one as well to better protect the bottom of the radiator from road debris
How do I get my top down help please roof cycle in time out
The "Roof Cycle Timeout" message is unfortunately the most generic error message the roof system can generate. A roof cycle timeout simply means some step in the process of unlatching/latching/moving one of the roof components did not move from position "A" (where it started) to position "B" (where it needs to move to) within the expected amount of time that the Roof Door Module (RDM) expects it to complete that step.
Steps include:
1) windows clearing the seals (moving down to clear the window seals)
2) roof storage compartment lid (tonneau cover) latches unlatch and the lid is moved to its open position
3) the header latch motor (at the center of the area just above the windshield) unlatches the two latches from the header
4) the tonneau cover's extension panel is extended to raise the panel up and out of the of the way of the soon to be moving roof panels,
5) the top's hydraulic cylinders retract to move the top into the storage compartment
6) the tonneau cover is closed and the side latches (TLAT) are once again engaged to latch the tonneau cover in place
It is strongly recommended to have the engine running while opening/closing the roof since it does draw a good amount of electrical power to operate the roof.
I have observed that the tonneau cover's seals can get a little stuck to the cover if the roof has not been opened in a while or the seals have not been maintained with the dielectric grease mentioned in the video. If that is the thing not opening quick enough (you have the windows rolling down and you hear the latches unlatch in the roof storage area) you might pause the roof opening process and go out and gently try to lift the tonneau cover a small amount on both sides of the SSR and then resume the roof opening process.
If there is some sort of latch that has not operated quickly enough or at all usually the DIC (Driver Information Center) display will have a TLAT or HLAT error message.
If necessary, there is a process to manually unlatch and open/close the roof, but it requires two people and the use of the roof tool (comes with the SSR) and the proper pulling on the unlatching / latching cables for the roof which are located in the cab of the SSR behind the seats at their base and behind a small carpet plug/cutout.
If you need additional assistance, it might be easier to speak on the phone. Please send an email to info@retrocarguy530.com with your contact info and a preferred date/time for a phone conversation.
I’m searching for one now…. Since you’ve owned them.. what yr is the prime yr for SSR?
The 2005/2006 SSR with the 6.0L LS2 engine tends to be the preferred model years. The extra 90 to 100 hp with that engine does make a difference. The 2003/2004 model years with the 5.3L 300 hp engine is ok as well, but it is nice to have the larger engine.
@@RetroCarGuy530 Exactly what I was thinking. How is the market on all those "NASCAR Signature additions"?
@@Mrjmhill the entire used car market is priced extremely high right now. The SSR total production being just over 24K makes it a bit of a rarity (in general) and then when you add in the subgroups like the NASCAR pace trucks you'll probably pay a lot for one right now.
If I were to purchase another SSR (again these are my preferences), I would likely try to find a nice condition 2006 2SS or 3SS trim level in Pacific Blue or a two tone of my liking. I did own a 2006 SSR with 3SS trim level and it was a black over silver two tone. I REALLY miss that one!
hi how can i stop my roof in mid motion so i can fill my roof reservoir bit once you stop it it will not go down
If you release the roof button during the up/down movement of the roof, the roof will "stay" in that position as long as the ignition switch is still on. If the ignition switch is turned off, the pump and related hydraulic circuits will be unpressurized and the roof will move "freely". I can't say that having the roof in the "middle" of going up/down necessarily provides better/easier access to the pump fluid reservoir. You could stop the movement of the roof going down right after the tonneau cover fully lifts up and the flipper panel fully lifts upward, leaving the roof in the full up position. The other position might be with the roof fully down in the storage area, but before the tonneau cover and flipper panel is lowered to cover the roof storage area. The tonneau cover should remain in the position it was last placed at whether or not the ignition switch is on or off.
The location of the pump reservoir is not very distinct...I know you said it was behind the drivers seat...I got the delcofluid from Amazon
The roof fluid reservoir tank and pump are located inside of the roof storage area in the lower center section. The fill plug is on the driver's side of the tank. The video shows that side of the tank beginning at 6:47 in the video. I might recommend lowering the roof into the storage area but stop the process before it lowers the tonneau cover over the storage area. On the driver's side look down and towards the center and you should see the tank and the brass fill plug I show in the video.
Hi where can i find parts for my ssr?
Most powertrain parts can be sourced from any parts supplier that has Chevy Trailblazer parts for those same model years as the SSR.
Chevy SSR specific body panels and roof parts tend to be limited (in the U.S.) to a couple of wrecking yards:
Cleveland Power & Performance: www.clevelandpap.com
Schram Auto Parts: www.schramauto.com/
A good source for SSR specific parts is from Simple Engineering, LLC in Phoenix Arizona:
simple-engineering.com
how to get in semi open position ? 🤔
You press the roof down button until it reaches the position you want it to stop and then release the button. In most cases, the roof panels will remain in that position. If the roof is open just beyond its midway opening point, releasing the button and turning off the key/engine will let the roof panels to gently drop into the roof storage area.
I need help with my roof 😭
Depending on what kind of help you need with your SSR's roof, you might be able to find info or assistance from fellow SSR owners on the www.ssrfanatic.com website or the "SSR Fanatics" Facebook group facebook.com/groups/86158897189
The SSR roof has a large number of components that all must work correctly and together to accomplish the roof movement task. You can also send an email to info@retrocarguy530.com with the symptoms of what's wrong with the roof and I will try to give some pointers, but keep in mind an in person inspection of several of the roof's components may be required to properly diagnose or make informed suggestions on how to resolve your roof's issue(s).
This is helpful,but my 05 top Quit
There are a wide variety of reasons the Chevy SSR roof may stop working. I might suggest checking out the www.ssrfanatic.com website for additional info and you might want to create a thread on that website describing what's not working and there are several people on that site that will try to offer assistance.
My roof and windows will not go down
Hi Tony. Sorry to hear that your SSR has roof/window problems.
When you say "will not go down" does that mean from all input sources?
Windows don't index downward when a door is opened?
Windows won't roll down when the center console button is pushed to roll down that window?
Windows don't roll down when you attempt to put the roof up or down?
Roof does or does not attempt to move the roof to the up or down position?
If the answer to all of those is "Yes, the window(s) don't move in this manner" then there's either a power source problem to the center console or the RDM (Roof Door Module) fuse or the RDM itself has some problems. RDMs don't usually fail, but I have seen a couple of them fail and one just a couple of months ago.
I'm assuming there is power going to the radio and other devices supplied power by the center console fuse box, correct? If there are other items not working as well, there is a 125 amp fuse just to the front of the engine bay fuse box that supplies power to the center console fuse box. I've heard of those failing, but the symptom is multiple items supplied power by the center console fuse box won't be working since the fuse supplying power to center fuse box had failed. If other things are working that are supplied power by the center console fuse box, then the issue is likely RDM or center shift/button console specific.
If the windows do index downward when the door is opened and index upward when the door is closed, then the RDM is at least somewhat functional. If that is true but the windows don't roll down when the button is pushed on the center console then it could be a faulty or gummed up button contact pad in the center console assembly.
If the roof is non responsive and the windows are completely non responsive, then it's likely a power supply problem to the RDM or the RDM itself. I have observed a reviving of the RDM by swapping the two silver relay/fuses at the top of the center console fuse box. Don't know why that worked on that particular SSR, but it did, so you might give that a try as well (pull them out and wait about 30 seconds and then insert them again swapping spots). Check the center console fuse box fuse for the RDM itself and verify that it is good.
If your SSR has the cargo area carpet kit with the cargo cover light, check the wiring for that and the bulb making sure there's no signs of burning or any other sort of failure. The cargo cover light's circuit board has an input into the RDM and it has been the source of the RDM to getting confused or cause the RDM to fail.
I hope that helps.