Here’s an interesting one for you. 50” Samsung plasma. Powers up moment mains power is applied without pressing power button. Screen is blank with just static. No other functionality. Menu, volume and source buttons unresponsive. Will not turn off with power button only by removing power lead. Not got too far into this as yet but so far everything pointing to main control board. Would welcome any feedback and keep up the interesting and informative vids. Cheers
Those resistors ,cost alot. 20 you said. Im actually just learning your advice, and comparing it to information I've heard. The mosfits and driver was something new. people would think that was a heat sink , all in all these tvs don't have much of a fan , like on game consoles , pcs. Your channel s the best electronic repair , and looks like it should be on public station . really
Yes 12voltvids I find the very same problem removing transistors silly build I think they want you to buy a new board. You do excellent work and I love your videos truly great to watch.
I really enjoy this video. You definitely know what you're doing and talking about. Also you bring up some very good points about saving your older components. Thanks you bow i have a good idea on what to look for first. Great job.
Thank you very much Mr. 12V although this video was made 3 years ago it is as relevant as ever. I have enhanced my experience - indeed in electronics we never stop learning. keep it up. Come to think of it each component out of thousands has a role to play.
When I first started the caps were all bulged out, an abvious fault but after replacing no power. Further inspection revealed blown (literally) MOSFETs. They can be tested with a dmm, you just have to disconnect the leads.
Capxon! It's nearly always those that bulge, in 2nd place it has to be samwha. I've fixed a few standby circuits in older Samsung sets with bulged samwha caps, from what I researched - there was a recall for TVs of that era due to caps made from faulty/missing ingredients. Great video - thanks. Very helpful and informative.
@@12voltvids always thought Elna were good back then, but I don't do anywhere near the amount of repairs that you do. I have a good working plasma Samsung upstairs, after watching this I may resolder the power supply board pre-emptively! Prevention better than cure! Thanks for your reply🙂
Was told it is good maintenance advice to check the tightness of all PCB board mounting screws on plasma sets every 2 years as they are used to provide the critical ground references in these circuits, and that operating expansion/contraction cycling causes them to work loose , a bad ground connection at these points can often lead to damage of sensitive drive components when this happens some repair outlets even offer kits containing the replacement ic's and parts as a set that get damaged when loss of ground occurs ..mention that one always checks that the capacitor in question is not charged before using an ESR measurement tool or you might blow up your measuring equipment , but one should do that anyways for safety, don't assume anything when working on a device that can store this much charge voltage and discharge it at very high amperage .
Thanks for posting. (I realize it was 2015, a while back.) I just collected one of these units from our recycling center, where I work. we collect tons of flat screens. This one has black lines on screen and now takes a while to fire up. Your video's are much appreciated. I hope with your video postings will be able to repair this Mint condition SamSung.
Check the tab connectors on the left side of the screen (looking from the back) and power supply for bad caps. Be sure all ground screws on all boards are tight.
Ahh this one takes me way back. Had one of these on my work bench (I'm an amateur tech on flat panels, however my expertise is repairing full size video arcade games that I've been doing for about 30 years) Had to do a full recap on this same power board, also found a pair of regulators dead. (Anytime you see "CapXon" capacitors? Dump 'em...they are all garbage.) Sold the power board on eBay to a gent in CT that had his fail. The one I was repairing also had damage to several other boards and after replacing several more bad MOSFET's I said "UNCLE!"... The guy that purchased the power board let me know that it worked flawless in his TV and it did save at least 1 from the junk heap.
If there was a award for youtube teaching you would be in the running. I am still learning on electronics have a Toshiba 50" projection screen that go's to house of the dead II arcade game it's dead
very informative. great eye for defects.my tv is doing the exact same thing. decided to try to fix it myself. first time . changed bulged compacitors same issue. just noticed another bulged comp tonight but its on another board on the hdmi side of tv. its the exact same set that u were working on. great how to vid bud. keep up the good work
A friend of mine worked on electronics for 40 years and used to put lead solder in his mouth so both hands would be free to hold the part, died of mouth cancer! Never smoked or chewed tobacco.
Lots of old timers got all kinds of cancers. The first shop I worked for the owner got lung cancer, the parts store owner got cancer too. Likely from fumes of all the chemicals that were sprayed all over the place.
I worked at a company (Triarco) that made aircraft cockpit indicators. We had to do through-hole soldering without burning components. We never did such sloppy soldering work as you find in consumer electronics.
+Amy Marie Great glad you enjoyed it. My goal is to get people interested in electronics, and to try to fix things before just disposing of them. It can be fun, and it is always good to learn how things work.
i've worked on sets, much smaller ones.I've Never seen such "carnage" to a Fet. i will admit when i saw the damage i got the feeling of Dread. about "is anything else bad?" cause to blow the Fets apart, that woulda had to be a hell of a spike.
+Amy Marie When I saw the mosfets split in 2 I had a feeling that there would be more damage, however I had already confirmed that I did have drive so I knew the oscillator and IC was ok. But you are correct when parts are in pieces is usually means that a catastrophic event has occurred, like a lightning strike.
+YUKI JINJUJI Fixed lots of lightning fried sets. Usually just an MOV, sometimes a few diodes and a main filter and some vaporized traces in the primary side of the power supply. Had a few cameras that were beyond repair and they weren't even plugged in. One was connected to the power supply, but was not plugged into AC, just sitting on the floor of a house that had a tree right next to the house direct strike. Tree exploded, every single lightbulb in the house blew regardless if it was on of off, induction into the cord between the power supply and camera blew every chip off the board. Literally burned a hole in all the IC. Blew the AC rectifier, 2 filter caps, and the 2 chopper transistors, and MOV on the primary side. The TV was not seriously damaged, but the camera, cable box, furnace, water heater, stove and prior mentioned light bulbs blown. Oh yes as was the electric meter, and the main electrical panel was blown to pieces along with the conduit and service connection for the underground wiring.Lighting hit the treem ran down the tree and into the home via the ground electrode that was next to the tree, back fed into the multi grounded neutral conductor on the mains. It was a mess, I saw the house picking up the broken TV. Wall was all scorched black. Not so much from the initial strike, but from the electrical service wire that was now arcing inside the wall and continued until the fuse tripped on the service transformer out at the street. Looked like a war zone. A 150 foot tree had literally exploded. Branches all over the place, and bark for about a 150 foot radius of the tree. Never seen anything like it. Was wild. Home owner said it sounded like a bomb going off it was so loud, and they the house filled with smoke.
I really enjoy your video's..wish i could have went to school for this...now I'm too old i guess.. but i know I would have enjoyed this kind of work just like you do..thanks for sharing..
Electronics repairing is not teached in schools,but theory.In practice you have to implement the theory with the working experience to gain the desired knowledge for repairing all the different stuff.
Hi have a nice Samsung model (PS50Q97HD) looks not that differ to one in video. At present it’s blowing all 3Amp and 5Amp fuses as soon as it’s plugged in. It’s the second working tested S/H PWR Supply that I’ve fitted. I inspected the board,re flows all joints on Capacitors, Transistors, Triacs, Voltage Regulators, NPN/PNP and other assorted transistors. I have replaced all capacitors 1000 uF, 2200uF, 470uF around the input to the power supply with new ones. I then Re installed board, but did not connect (X) and (Y) main at this stage, but did connect the multi strand cable from my he PWR Supply to what is termed as ( Logic Board) and also the multi pin ribbon cable from the PWR Supply board to the (Audio/Input/ output) board ( the one that has all the inputs / outputs/ component/ HDMI/ areal on. When powered on it dirt take the (plug fuse) but when the (on/off) button was pressed a (loud Bang) was heard from the back, this took the 3Amp plug fuse and also tripped the socket circuit RCD in the flat🥵 inspecting the PWR Supply board after,a small Transistor device with 5 legs had exploded, this was exactly the same Transistor that exploded on the original board. So there is a (Dead Short) or (Short to Ground )somewhere,and using the (on/off ) button seems to tri😅 it. All through fault finding I couldn’t hear the (X) or (Y) main fire at-all. After the fist PWR Supply board Transistor exploded it I did replace the (X) main and the (Y) Main+ the pair of (Hi) and (Lo) buffer boards,also replaced the (audio/Video) board. Have not replaced what is called (Logic Board) or Buffer Boards located at the bottom of the set , these are marked (E) and (F) and have short cable linking them, these have 12-16 flexible cables going direct to the set plasma panel. Any ideas, guidance and advice as what to check for or that could be causing the issues would be most appreciated. With thanks Jason
I like these films, they always have a happy ending! Ha ha. Incidentally - got no air hose? Grab a large airbed foot pump! I saved my company hundreds of Pounds (I'm British) now we don't have to buy cans of compressed air! Great job as always!
@@12voltvids That goes with the territory sometimes, sadly! I wrecked a keyboard days before a bands tour - in front of the owner! I was only changing the back light on the display. Live and learn and concentrate on the positives! you have a website full of them. :-)
You should use identical MOSFETs. Higher voltage higher current MOSFETs will require more drive current due to higher gate charge, switching delay times will be different which can affect stability and different switching speeds may affect emc. Often using better FETs results in worse performance.
HAHAHA I think that is the same exact TV we have! (The one with the horizontal "hum" bars :S) We had the exact same problem happen as well, with the exact same solder joints! And the transistors (FETs) had to be replaced as well, like your board. Except mine didn't catastrophically explode like yours XD (And no other components burnt/failed) Oh and I did replace those two capacitors that you replaced, they were bulged on my set as well.
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti Check the large main filters, and the big filters on the secondary side for high ESR. They are common failures and will cause faint lines in the picture as they start to fail. The spacing of the lines vary with screen brightness as the power supply adjusts the duty cycle to control the voltage.
12voltvids The spacing doesn't really appear to change. Or at least maybe it does, but it isn't noticeable. It is more noticeable on darker scenes though! It shows up as a white haze.
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti That sounds more like a panel biasing issue. On the Y sustain board there are some trimmer pots to set the panel biasing. You need to go into test mode to access the test patterns to set up the panel, namely the grey scale tracking. From the remote it is Mute 182 power to access menu on a Samsung. You would want to download the service manual for the alignment procedure. My 50 with the cracked screen has a bias problem too, that I haven't bothered fixing as it is only apparent with a bright white screen, where the center portion of the screen is darker then the top and bottom slightly. Very subtile, but it is there, and again just an adjustment.
Speaking of Capxon, for what I heard about the history about the Capxon Capacitors the company who makes parts, the company itself was from Taiwan and starting to manufacture the electrolytic cap in China in 2000 where they are making the cheap parts where it never last long ever. For Lelon, the caps is either from Taiwan or China the quality of the components, but the company itself is from Taiwan in 1970's and makes more parts for the electronics. For Su'scon, it's also from Taiwan competing against to Japanese company such as Nippon Chemi-Con and Nichicon where they are trying to make the quality that has similar to it, and I don't know that Su'scon caps will last long like all other American and Japanese made electrolytic caps, but I will see how it happen. For Samxon, and X-Con, these caps quality is made by Man Yue Technologies Holding Limited from China, and making qualities similar to the cheap designs by the various manufactures in China. And for Ltec, Ltec is from Taiwan that has manufacture the Electrolytic caps in 1979 and I think it's still makes electrolytic caps from Taiwan, but the quality appears to be a cheap ones. These Ltec caps were might not last long but who knows. That's all there is to give you some brief history of the various cheap electrolytic caps from the company from two different countries where they make some cheap qualities that are not last long.
Tantalum resistors in the power supply? ( 33:45 ) that's some high grade videophile piece of kit there Dave, I bet the images are so much less dry and flat, and jump from the screen much more readily... (Honestly, I have no idea if they really did use Ta resistors in the power supply of a plasma set but seems maybe a little nod to the 'phools ?) *EDIT-:* Nope, just me being deaf as a post! just listened again & you said 10 ohm not Tantalum haha... Again, great video & love seeing these old TV repairs. I miss them being viable to repair, maybe they'll have a resurgence one day when millenials get tired of buying a new Vestel every year or two.
@@12voltvids Pardon? All joking aside, my right ear is pretty much screwed & got some decent tinnitus also. At least I caught it after going over the video a few times lol.
Friend, I am from Latin America, here that type of televisions are still repaired, I am at this moment with the same problem that you had with that source, my question is if you remember with what type of diode I replace the diode dx803 that is originally a kds184 (B3) congratulations, good video.
NICE Diagnostic teaching job and repair. Most would of given up and put in a new board. Yep used OEM better than new offshore. Love this type of video!
Make sure that the dB MAX on the capacitors is not causing emission distortion with the bypass SIN sinewave of the power supply secondary demodulator. Just kidding. I used to make up a technical sounding fake problem for clients if I could not find what was wrong with there electronics. Now I am honest with them and eat the money. I do this because I am on disability which pays very little money, and my shop only earns about $50/month. I can't even afford advertising fees. But because of my honesty, people, by word of mouth, bring me their stuff to fix and give me big tips. Because I am so poor, I have placed my entire life in the hands of God and try to obey the Ten Commandments. I am a devout Christian. My mother will soon die, and then I will loose my disability because I will inherit the house, and I will not still have enough money to retire. God bless you and your great videos. Thank you. Frank
Excellent video and love how you breakdown what each component does. I have the same problem, well not exactly the same. I have no issue powering up but I do have an issue where it will randomly power off and power on by itself. Initially when I experienced the issue, it would power cycle twice and then it would be normal until I power off the TV. Additionally, it doesnt do it all the time. Sometimes it will not do it at all. Now I just leave the TV on so I dont have to deal with the issue. I love the TV because I've had for 10 years and it hasnt given me any problems until now. I would assume it will be a component(s) on the power board. No signs of bulging or leaking caps. Where do you suggest I should start looking at? Any help is greatly appreciated. TV Model Samsung HP-T5044, Power Board BN44-00162a
Hi! Love your channel! I've been fighting a Samsung PN50C450B1DXZA plasma for several months now as a favor for a family member. I still can't get it to stay on longer than 10 seconds. According to the label it was manufactured December, 2010. I've replaced the PS board, Y-Main, logic and most recently the X-Main board to try to get it to power on and show picture. I did find 5V shorted to ground on the original PS board and a few shorted MOSFETs on the original Y-Main. After replacing both of those boards I was able to briefly see a very dark/faint part of the input selection screen at the very top of the display before It shut off. I couldn't find anything wrong on the X-Main board but decided to get a replacement anyway after reading that board controls brightness. No change. The only other boards I haven't replaced are the Y-Scan Drive and the signal/tuner board. Any suggestions on where to look next or if there's a way to test the plasma panel itself? Thanks, Steve Hurd, Floyds Knobs, IN
I would have started at the Y buffer board they are quite common. A panel could cause it too, but usually panel failures show up as a solid vertical colored line, or a black or white horizontal line.
12voltvids Both are replaced but I'm not sure where to go from here. Could it be a bad y-driver or the signal/tuner board? Those are the last original boards in the tv. I'm planning to test the high-voltages on the replacement ps out of the tv over the weekend.
Sometimes these sets can be a real nightmare. They are so well protected. They are protected against over voltage, under voltage, over current, over temperature.
I agree! This set would have been a good one for your channel! I'll take out the ps this weekend and do a bench test on it. Maybe I don't have it set correctly since it's a replacement used part. How much of a voltage drop can I expect to see between having it on the bench and in the set?
Ok, I've replaced EVERYTHING on this set now except the Y-buffer board but I found no shorts on it. The voltages all look good at the test points - although I can't find 2Ve anywhere. The TV will come on and I see the panel light dimly with a red tinge to it for about 10 seconds before it shuts off again. I get no video or audio at all but I do see that the front panel led flashes when I press buttons on the remote. Any suggestions on where to go next? Could it be a bad panel? Incidentally, apparently plasma tv's need more current than they get when plugged in to your "current limiting device"! Nice bright light bulb! At least I know the circuit works.
Nice! This is same tv I have to fix, same problem. I replaced the same caps you did but all 4 came in my kit so I used them all. They were Nichicon and larger I think. Still didn't fix it. I got the new FETs but I haven't changed them yet. Wasn't sure if I needed to take the whole heat sink off cause of those screws you talk about! Horrible design layout. I hope the FETs fix it on mine cause I'm not sure I can find the other SMC parts even with the schematic. Those are tiny, I'll have to get some eye help!
+cmatthys The FETs come out fairly easily.Check the drive BEFORE you hook up the FETS to make sure you have drive.I used my variac to bring the voltage up slowly, that way if there was a problem it wouldn't go POW.
hmm, check the drive. Not sure what you mean. I"m still pretty green at this. I do have a variac. I've never used it but got one cause I knew I would at some point. Hookiing up the board for bench testing is probably beyond my comfort level right now. I don't want to ruin anything or zap myself cause I make a noob mistake. I'll watch teh video a couple more times and see what I can learn. I also just got a new Uni-t 612 meter toi check components in circuit. I have to learn how to use it I'm still deciphering some of that.
+cmatthys That is what I am measuring with the scope, on the gate of the mosfet. The drive signal. That is what lead me to the open diode and open pair of 20 ohm resistors in parallel that I replaced with the 10 ohm.
+12voltvids I changed out the caps and the fets so far. The TV starts but not 1st time everytime. Im sure I need to replace the same resistors and diode next.
I have a problem with the same power supply it runs normal vs and va are good. After 2 minutes power relais clicks off and tv shuts down. After that it won't power on. Then unplug the tv and plug in and the tv starts again for 2 min. Have you got experience where i can find the problem. Thanx
Jimmy B - sounds like a thermal problem; a component is getting hot, then failing (or causing a nearby component to fail). An IR thermometer is recommended, so you don't have to use your fingers as temperature sensors! Check for leaky caps, as well as hot regulator ICs or transistors. Also see if there's a thermistor or resettable thermal fuse near heat sinks; these are a good clue that the designers sought to protect these components in case of overload!
All visual inspection will tell you is that the cap is totally fubar. This accounts for about the worst 10%. The other 90% of electrolytic cap failures will only be discovered by measuring the ESR.
@@12voltvids .. at 21:15 .. I think that those ICs had a manufacturing defect 🤨..... I mean.. I have seen exploded ICs.. with holes or a crater in them where it explodes ... others with literally a missing piece 😖.... but never clean open like that 😲 ... pretty cool huh 😃...
I have an idea that may be useful. What if you attach female pins to those pull up/pull down resistors so all you would have to do is slip them on the pins needed to force the power supply on?
I have a 226 BW Samsung monitor that I recently got a power supply board for. I installed the board and the monitor worked for a few minutes then it got streaky lines accros the screen and shut off and wouldnt start again. I examined the power supply board and found it was a 225BW he sent me although it fin fine and had all nessesary connectors and harness. could that be the problem as the two boards are almost exactly alike exept the 225 BW is missing two small IC's by the lamp ballast transformers
I have hp-r5052. Nov 2005 is there differences in common repair or compatibility boards? I buy some and one slight different on the board but all connects
Another great repair!!! How did you know which points to bridge and pull to ground at the connectors? Experience or is there a service manual floating somewhere? What kind of switching converter was that? Boost converter? (I'm studying up on different topologies)
+Koffi Banan The power supply is a smps, switch mode power supply, not a boost converter. As far as knowing what to pull high or low, I measured the ps on an VA on pins. The ps on had about 4.7 v on it, so that was a dead giveaway th it needed to go low, so the pull down resistor goes to cold ground. The VA switch input measures 0, so that one needs to be pulled high, so a pull up resistor added to the 5v standby supply. I had no manual or print for this repair. It was all done by my knowledge of how these circuits are designed and by logically breaking the unit into separate blocks and testing / isolating each block to find where the fault was. Also remembering the areas where cold solder had been found as cold solder joints has been an ongoing cause of component failure for as long as pcb construction has.
As much as I have tried, I have yet to damage anything. ESD really is only bad for bare parts. Once mounted on a board, all the copper on the board and the other parts will dissipate most static charges before it is going to cause any problems.
@@kevthegerbil1958 Actually that is incorrect. If that was the case all our smartphones would blow up as soon as you touched the screen. After all it is connected to the main board. This is why you short out the esd pads on a laser block of a CD player before you remove it and open the short after it is installed. The rest of the circuit dissipates build up charge. Laser diodes are one of the most sensitive devices to esd. Not saying it is impossible to damage a component on a board, if you zapped it with high voltage from a power supply for example but the charge built up o. your body is extremely unlikely to cause any problem. In the 35 years I have been repairing equipment the number of things I have damaged by esd is 0.
great video! I have a samsung plasma 2013 51" than had a few horizontal stripes, then when i udated the firmware, i had two loud bangs and the screen went dead. any idea?
@@12voltvids is there protocol on diagnosis to find out which board is broken? I will try to order parts online. Samsung Thailand wants half the price of a new TV to fix it(without diagnosis). Sounds like controlled obsoleteness?
Hi and thanks for your video. I have the same model and my problem is the Ve=13v instead of normaly 96V. All the another voltage is ok (va,vs...).The picture is not good. What can i have to change plz ?
at 21:15 .. I think that those ICs had a manufacturing defect 🤨..... I mean.. I have seen exploded ICs.. with holes or a crater in them where it explodes ... others with literally a missing piece 😖.... but never clean open like that 😲 ... pretty cool huh 😃...
I have the Samsung model HPT5054X/XAA same components layout like yours but I see your model number is different any chance they can be diagnosed the same, my trouble is all video channels blanked out but have audio, any thoughts at what to look at first
i have a samsung 60" plasma that has no picture but sound and when i opened the back panel i saw that the T con health led is blinking on for about 5 sec and off for another 3 sec, i check the power supply is ok and i couldn't find any problems on the Y-sus or the X main, i went thru and re-solder all the FET and capacitors but nothing changes.
i have a problem with my samsung plasma tv ppm50m7hb no display but have sound the other night the video just quit and sound was still going but no menu when i turn it on it blinks 5 times and stays solid after the 5
Hi, great informative videos thank you, My Samsung Plasma went bang, model number PS43E490B1K, Now red standby light comes on, when you turn it on it flashes and there is sound, but no picture, could you direct me as to where to start?
hi may i pls ask for any help , I have SAMSUNG PS42C96HDX/XEU , will not start, the PSU is DYP-42W2PLUS, STB 5V ok , blue led comes on flashes a couple of seconds , i hear relay ON ( normal click ) and then imediately it seems to go OFF ( softer click ) .In August ( max hot ambient 40 DEg C ! ) , the set used to require 20 min off the mains and then it would start , but then it stopped doing this, , i need schematic if possible and how to force ON for bench testing. this video is very clear on this, cam one assume ithe procedure PSON to GRD & STB5V to VSON will work for this PSU ?? 12voltids is a very interesting , knowledgable , clever guy , and a REAL PRO . being of a similar background I would love to be friends , and not just for this repair ! Cheers very good work , unlike many really useless videos out there. Dear Sir any email You can be reached ???
Hello 12 volts I have a Samsung Lcd tv Model LE19r86BD All the voltages from the output of the power supply are all measuring okay as stated on the board I think my power supply is okay any ideas Neilson Shetland islands
I have Samsung HP-R5072. Has same power supply All voltages good. Push button on front of TV Chimes . Set will not come on No picture no sound. All voltages on power module are present. What triggers set on. I feel I am missing a key voltage some where. Any suggestions??
Hi sir nice informative vedio , i working on lg 42" plasma tv and can't find the problem it has standby led but went press power on tv or remote nothing happens .The power supply has all its voltage going to main board and sustain boards there is no buldge cap or any transistor on sustain boards thats bad there is nothing happens when power button is press can you help me out sir thanks.
Hello I love your videos. Am having a problem wit my amplifier. Is a goldstar GSA -9320. The problem am having is that the ceramic resistors 3w 0.22ohms. R getting hot to smoke just a few seconds on current. On 1 channel. I can't get my head around it. I don't no if the stk ic can make that. Can u please help me out.
Excellent job on component level board repair. I have been learning a lot from your videos. Keep up the good work!!!!
Here’s an interesting one for you. 50” Samsung plasma. Powers up moment mains power is applied without pressing power button. Screen is blank with just static. No other functionality. Menu, volume and source buttons unresponsive. Will not turn off with power button only by removing power lead. Not got too far into this as yet but so far everything pointing to main control board. Would welcome any feedback and keep up the interesting and informative vids. Cheers
Those resistors ,cost alot. 20 you said. Im actually just learning your advice, and comparing it to information I've heard. The mosfits and driver was something new. people would think that was a heat sink , all in all these tvs don't have much of a fan , like on game consoles , pcs. Your channel s the best electronic repair , and looks like it should be on public station . really
REvisited this again from a few years back. Really informative, detailed commentary and expertise. Thank you
Yes 12voltvids I find the very same problem removing transistors silly build I think they want you to buy a new board. You do excellent work and I love your videos truly great to watch.
I really enjoy this video. You definitely know what you're doing and talking about. Also you bring up some very good points about saving your older components. Thanks you bow i have a good idea on what to look for first. Great job.
Thank you very much Mr. 12V although this video was made 3 years ago it is as relevant as ever. I have enhanced my experience - indeed in electronics we never stop learning. keep it up. Come to think of it each component out of thousands has a role to play.
Sir there for I don't use digital multimeter because your mosfet were blown,and you did not realize.cheers for you help ful video.
When I first started the caps were all bulged out, an abvious fault but after replacing no power. Further inspection revealed blown (literally) MOSFETs. They can be tested with a dmm, you just have to disconnect the leads.
Capxon! It's nearly always those that bulge, in 2nd place it has to be samwha. I've fixed a few standby circuits in older Samsung sets with bulged samwha caps, from what I researched - there was a recall for TVs of that era due to caps made from faulty/missing ingredients.
Great video - thanks. Very helpful and informative.
They suffered from the same disease that elna caps had in the 90s
@@12voltvids always thought Elna were good back then, but I don't do anywhere near the amount of repairs that you do.
I have a good working plasma Samsung upstairs, after watching this I may resolder the power supply board pre-emptively! Prevention better than cure!
Thanks for your reply🙂
@@tharkthax3960 Sony slvr5 power supply and audio boards. Look up the slvr5 I did 3 videos on. Leaky elna caps and high end ones at that.
@@12voltvids will do. Thankyou 🙂
Was told it is good maintenance advice to check the tightness of all PCB board mounting screws on plasma sets every 2 years as they are used to provide the critical ground references in these circuits, and that operating expansion/contraction cycling causes them to work loose , a bad ground connection at these points can often lead to damage of sensitive drive components when this happens some repair outlets even offer kits containing the replacement ic's and parts as a set that get damaged when loss of ground occurs ..mention that one always checks that the capacitor in question is not charged before using an ESR measurement tool or you might blow up your measuring equipment , but one should do that anyways for safety, don't assume anything when working on a device that can store this much charge voltage and discharge it at very high amperage .
Yes ground screws work loose. Panasonic repair kit comes with lick washers for the screws.
.. you're an electronics genius... I have the same issue w/ a Samsung 42" Plasma TV & you just saved me a world of hurt trying to 'fix' it.. thanks :)
I've learnt more so much from this video, thank you
Thanks for posting. (I realize it was 2015, a while back.) I just collected one of these units from our recycling center, where I work. we collect tons of flat screens.
This one has black lines on screen and now takes a while to fire up. Your video's are much appreciated. I hope with your video postings will be able to repair this Mint condition SamSung.
Check the tab connectors on the left side of the screen (looking from the back) and power supply for bad caps. Be sure all ground screws on all boards are tight.
@@12voltvids Thanks , will do
Very detail explained .
Check the root cause rather then change the PSB.👍👍👍
Great Video...Thanks for the procedures well explained.
really excellent detail explanation, nice job, GOD bless you !!!
Ahh this one takes me way back. Had one of these on my work bench (I'm an amateur tech on flat panels, however my expertise is repairing full size video arcade games that I've been doing for about 30 years) Had to do a full recap on this same power board, also found a pair of regulators dead. (Anytime you see "CapXon" capacitors? Dump 'em...they are all garbage.)
Sold the power board on eBay to a gent in CT that had his fail. The one I was repairing also had damage to several other boards and after replacing several more bad MOSFET's I said "UNCLE!"... The guy that purchased the power board let me know that it worked flawless in his TV and it did save at least 1 from the junk heap.
If there was a award for youtube teaching you would be in the running. I am still learning on electronics have a Toshiba 50" projection screen that go's to house of the dead II arcade game it's dead
very informative. great eye for defects.my tv is doing the exact same thing. decided to try to fix it myself. first time . changed bulged compacitors same issue. just noticed another bulged comp tonight but its on another board on the hdmi side of tv. its the exact same set that u were working on. great how to vid bud. keep up the good work
You may have accidentally push the cap back in because at the beginning of the video you can clearly see both caps bulging. Good video by the way.
A friend of mine worked on electronics for 40 years and used to put lead solder in his mouth so both hands would be free to hold the part, died of mouth cancer! Never smoked or chewed tobacco.
Lots of old timers got all kinds of cancers. The first shop I worked for the owner got lung cancer, the parts store owner got cancer too. Likely from fumes of all the chemicals that were sprayed all over the place.
Excellent work love watching your videos
GOOD JAB MR. 12V thank you for sharing your experiences
I worked at a company (Triarco) that made aircraft cockpit indicators. We had to do through-hole soldering without burning components. We never did such sloppy soldering work as you find in consumer electronics.
I like all of your videos sir...please continue these types of vids..thank you so much..
More to come. Currently working on a small CRT set, and a vintage radio is next.
You are so so good, a pleasure to watch,so much knowledge its not true,and
patience to boot ,.........
This is a great video, very informative. love video's like this
+Amy Marie Great glad you enjoyed it. My goal is to get people interested in electronics, and to try to fix things before just disposing of them. It can be fun, and it is always good to learn how things work.
i've worked on sets, much smaller ones.I've Never seen such "carnage" to a Fet. i will admit when i saw the damage i got the feeling of Dread. about "is anything else bad?" cause to blow the Fets apart, that woulda had to be a hell of a spike.
+Amy Marie When I saw the mosfets split in 2 I had a feeling that there would be more damage, however I had already confirmed that I did have drive so I knew the oscillator and IC was ok. But you are correct when parts are in pieces is usually means that a catastrophic event has occurred, like a lightning strike.
+12voltvids yep lightning stinks i had to tell an owner of a crt that got hit by lightning it was ready for the thrash heap
+YUKI JINJUJI Fixed lots of lightning fried sets. Usually just an MOV, sometimes a few diodes and a main filter and some vaporized traces in the primary side of the power supply. Had a few cameras that were beyond repair and they weren't even plugged in. One was connected to the power supply, but was not plugged into AC, just sitting on the floor of a house that had a tree right next to the house direct strike. Tree exploded, every single lightbulb in the house blew regardless if it was on of off, induction into the cord between the power supply and camera blew every chip off the board. Literally burned a hole in all the IC. Blew the AC rectifier, 2 filter caps, and the 2 chopper transistors, and MOV on the primary side. The TV was not seriously damaged, but the camera, cable box, furnace, water heater, stove and prior mentioned light bulbs blown. Oh yes as was the electric meter, and the main electrical panel was blown to pieces along with the conduit and service connection for the underground wiring.Lighting hit the treem ran down the tree and into the home via the ground electrode that was next to the tree, back fed into the multi grounded neutral conductor on the mains. It was a mess, I saw the house picking up the broken TV. Wall was all scorched black. Not so much from the initial strike, but from the electrical service wire that was now arcing inside the wall and continued until the fuse tripped on the service transformer out at the street. Looked like a war zone. A 150 foot tree had literally exploded. Branches all over the place, and bark for about a 150 foot radius of the tree. Never seen anything like it. Was wild. Home owner said it sounded like a bomb going off it was so loud, and they the house filled with smoke.
I really enjoy your video's..wish i could have went to school for this...now I'm too old i guess.. but i know
I would have enjoyed this kind of work just like you do..thanks for sharing..
Electronics repairing is not teached in schools,but theory.In practice you have to implement the theory with the working experience to gain the desired knowledge for repairing all the different stuff.
Great job! you had to really work for that one! 👍
this is one of my favorite video's now.
Hi have a nice Samsung model (PS50Q97HD) looks not that differ to one in video. At present it’s blowing all 3Amp and 5Amp fuses as soon as it’s plugged in. It’s the second working tested S/H PWR Supply that I’ve fitted. I inspected the board,re flows all joints on Capacitors, Transistors, Triacs, Voltage Regulators, NPN/PNP and other assorted transistors. I have replaced all capacitors 1000 uF, 2200uF, 470uF around the input to the power supply with new ones. I then Re installed board, but did not connect (X) and (Y) main at this stage, but did connect the multi strand cable from my he PWR Supply to what is termed as ( Logic Board) and also the multi pin ribbon cable from the PWR Supply board to the (Audio/Input/ output) board ( the one that has all the inputs / outputs/ component/ HDMI/ areal on. When powered on it dirt take the (plug fuse) but when the (on/off) button was pressed a (loud Bang) was heard from the back, this took the 3Amp plug fuse and also tripped the socket circuit RCD in the flat🥵 inspecting the PWR Supply board after,a small Transistor device with 5 legs had exploded, this was exactly the same Transistor that exploded on the original board. So there is a (Dead Short) or (Short to Ground )somewhere,and using the (on/off ) button seems to tri😅 it. All through fault finding I couldn’t hear the (X) or (Y) main fire at-all. After the fist PWR Supply board Transistor exploded it I did replace the (X) main and the (Y) Main+ the pair of (Hi) and (Lo) buffer boards,also replaced the (audio/Video) board. Have not replaced what is called (Logic Board) or Buffer Boards located at the bottom of the set , these are marked (E) and (F) and have short cable linking them, these have 12-16 flexible cables going direct to the set plasma panel. Any ideas, guidance and advice as what to check for or that could be causing the issues would be most appreciated. With thanks Jason
Sounds like its ready for the bin. If it was mine with all that wrong it certainly would be tossed.
I like these films, they always have a happy ending! Ha ha. Incidentally - got no air hose? Grab a large airbed foot pump! I saved my company hundreds of Pounds (I'm British) now we don't have to buy cans of compressed air! Great job as always!
I have blown a few things up and made a few people cry.
@@12voltvids That goes with the territory sometimes, sadly! I wrecked a keyboard days before a bands tour - in front of the owner! I was only changing the back light on the display. Live and learn and concentrate on the positives! you have a website full of them. :-)
You should use identical MOSFETs.
Higher voltage higher current MOSFETs will require more drive current due to higher gate charge, switching delay times will be different which can affect stability and different switching speeds may affect emc.
Often using better FETs results in worse performance.
HAHAHA
I think that is the same exact TV we have! (The one with the horizontal "hum" bars :S)
We had the exact same problem happen as well, with the exact same solder joints!
And the transistors (FETs) had to be replaced as well, like your board.
Except mine didn't catastrophically explode like yours XD (And no other components burnt/failed)
Oh and I did replace those two capacitors that you replaced, they were bulged on my set as well.
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti Check the large main filters, and the big filters on the secondary side for high ESR. They are common failures and will cause faint lines in the picture as they start to fail. The spacing of the lines vary with screen brightness as the power supply adjusts the duty cycle to control the voltage.
12voltvids
The spacing doesn't really appear to change. Or at least maybe it does, but it isn't noticeable.
It is more noticeable on darker scenes though! It shows up as a white haze.
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti That sounds more like a panel biasing issue. On the Y sustain board there are some trimmer pots to set the panel biasing. You need to go into test mode to access the test patterns to set up the panel, namely the grey scale tracking. From the remote it is Mute 182 power to access menu on a Samsung. You would want to download the service manual for the alignment procedure. My 50 with the cracked screen has a bias problem too, that I haven't bothered fixing as it is only apparent with a bright white screen, where the center portion of the screen is darker then the top and bottom slightly. Very subtile, but it is there, and again just an adjustment.
Thanks another wonderful job.
CAPXON!!! a well known troublemaker in every display and tv I have ever worked on! they should be outlawed
Speaking of Capxon, for what I heard about the history about the Capxon Capacitors the company who makes parts, the company itself was from Taiwan and starting to manufacture the electrolytic cap in China in 2000 where they are making the cheap parts where it never last long ever.
For Lelon, the caps is either from Taiwan or China the quality of the components, but the company itself is from Taiwan in 1970's and makes more parts for the electronics.
For Su'scon, it's also from Taiwan competing against to Japanese company such as Nippon Chemi-Con and Nichicon where they are trying to make the quality that has similar to it, and I don't know that Su'scon caps will last long like all other American and Japanese made electrolytic caps, but I will see how it happen.
For Samxon, and X-Con, these caps quality is made by Man Yue Technologies Holding Limited from China, and making qualities similar to the cheap designs by the various manufactures in China.
And for Ltec, Ltec is from Taiwan that has manufacture the Electrolytic caps in 1979 and I think it's still makes electrolytic caps from Taiwan, but the quality appears to be a cheap ones. These Ltec caps were might not last long but who knows.
That's all there is to give you some brief history of the various cheap electrolytic caps from the company from two different countries where they make some cheap qualities that are not last long.
I must admit that, owing to their complexity, I had fallen out of love with plasma televisions.
Tantalum resistors in the power supply? ( 33:45 ) that's some high grade videophile piece of kit there Dave, I bet the images are so much less dry and flat, and jump from the screen much more readily...
(Honestly, I have no idea if they really did use Ta resistors in the power supply of a plasma set but seems maybe a little nod to the 'phools ?) *EDIT-:* Nope, just me being deaf as a post! just listened again & you said 10 ohm not Tantalum haha...
Again, great video & love seeing these old TV repairs. I miss them being viable to repair, maybe they'll have a resurgence one day when millenials get tired of buying a new Vestel every year or two.
10 ohm resistor. I guess you need your hearing checked. A hearing aid perhaps would help.
@@12voltvids Pardon?
All joking aside, my right ear is pretty much screwed & got some decent tinnitus also. At least I caught it after going over the video a few times lol.
At 22:30, send this pic over to Dave Jones' EEVSmoke blog! He's looking for pics (or videos) of real component failures such as this!
Yes they blew up but good.
_Korean Counterfeit_ *CrappyCaps®* *"Prices so low, they Blow!"*
Military grade metal cans for me Brother!!!
your so right CAPXON caps should be shoved up the ass of the manufacturer till theyr nose bleeds
Friend, I am from Latin America, here that type of televisions are still repaired, I am at this moment with the same problem that you had with that source, my question is if you remember with what type of diode I replace the diode dx803 that is originally a kds184 (B3) congratulations, good video.
NICE Diagnostic teaching job and repair. Most would of given up and put in a new board. Yep used OEM better than new offshore. Love this type of video!
I am doing mostly audio repair now. No money in TV repairs.
Make sure that the dB MAX on the capacitors is not causing emission distortion with the bypass SIN sinewave of the power supply secondary demodulator. Just kidding. I used to make up a technical sounding fake problem for clients if I could not find what was wrong with there electronics. Now I am honest with them and eat the money. I do this because I am on disability which pays very little money, and my shop only earns about $50/month. I can't even afford advertising fees. But because of my honesty, people, by word of mouth, bring me their stuff to fix and give me big tips. Because I am so poor, I have placed my entire life in the hands of God and try to obey the Ten Commandments. I am a devout Christian. My mother will soon die, and then I will loose my disability because I will inherit the house, and I will not still have enough money to retire. God bless you and your great videos. Thank you.
Frank
great explanation on the fets! thank you
Plasma tvs ok in the day! They very heavy, burn in problems saying that I've had a few with very good picture. I hate waste....
Excellent video and love how you breakdown what each component does. I have the same problem, well not exactly the same. I have no issue powering up but I do have an issue where it will randomly power off and power on by itself. Initially when I experienced the issue, it would power cycle twice and then it would be normal until I power off the TV. Additionally, it doesnt do it all the time. Sometimes it will not do it at all. Now I just leave the TV on so I dont have to deal with the issue. I love the TV because I've had for 10 years and it hasnt given me any problems until now. I would assume it will be a component(s) on the power board. No signs of bulging or leaking caps. Where do you suggest I should start looking at? Any help is greatly appreciated. TV Model Samsung HP-T5044, Power Board BN44-00162a
Hi! Love your channel! I've been fighting a Samsung PN50C450B1DXZA plasma for several months now as a favor for a family member. I still can't get it to stay on longer than 10 seconds. According to the label it was manufactured December, 2010. I've replaced the PS board, Y-Main, logic and most recently the X-Main board to try to get it to power on and show picture. I did find 5V shorted to ground on the original PS board and a few shorted MOSFETs on the original Y-Main. After replacing both of those boards I was able to briefly see a very dark/faint part of the input selection screen at the very top of the display before It shut off. I couldn't find anything wrong on the X-Main board but decided to get a replacement anyway after reading that board controls brightness. No change. The only other boards I haven't replaced are the Y-Scan Drive and the signal/tuner board. Any suggestions on where to look next or if there's a way to test the plasma panel itself? Thanks, Steve Hurd, Floyds Knobs, IN
I would have started at the Y buffer board they are quite common.
A panel could cause it too, but usually panel failures show up as a solid vertical colored line, or a black or white horizontal line.
12voltvids Both are replaced but I'm not sure where to go from here. Could it be a bad y-driver or the signal/tuner board? Those are the last original boards in the tv. I'm planning to test the high-voltages on the replacement ps out of the tv over the weekend.
Sometimes these sets can be a real nightmare. They are so well protected. They are protected against over voltage, under voltage, over current, over temperature.
I agree! This set would have been a good one for your channel! I'll take out the ps this weekend and do a bench test on it. Maybe I don't have it set correctly since it's a replacement used part. How much of a voltage drop can I expect to see between having it on the bench and in the set?
Ok, I've replaced EVERYTHING on this set now except the Y-buffer board but I found no shorts on it. The voltages all look good at the test points - although I can't find 2Ve anywhere. The TV will come on and I see the panel light dimly with a red tinge to it for about 10 seconds before it shuts off again. I get no video or audio at all but I do see that the front panel led flashes when I press buttons on the remote. Any suggestions on where to go next? Could it be a bad panel?
Incidentally, apparently plasma tv's need more current than they get when plugged in to your "current limiting device"! Nice bright light bulb! At least I know the circuit works.
Nice! This is same tv I have to fix, same problem. I replaced the same caps you did but all 4 came in my kit so I used them all. They were Nichicon and larger I think. Still didn't fix it. I got the new FETs but I haven't changed them yet. Wasn't sure if I needed to take the whole heat sink off cause of those screws you talk about! Horrible design layout. I hope the FETs fix it on mine cause I'm not sure I can find the other SMC parts even with the schematic. Those are tiny, I'll have to get some eye help!
+cmatthys The FETs come out fairly easily.Check the drive BEFORE you hook up the FETS to make sure you have drive.I used my variac to bring the voltage up slowly, that way if there was a problem it wouldn't go POW.
hmm, check the drive. Not sure what you mean. I"m still pretty green at this. I do have a variac. I've never used it but got one cause I knew I would at some point. Hookiing up the board for bench testing is probably beyond my comfort level right now. I don't want to ruin anything or zap myself cause I make a noob mistake. I'll watch teh video a couple more times and see what I can learn. I also just got a new Uni-t 612 meter toi check components in circuit. I have to learn how to use it I'm still deciphering some of that.
Ok, after re-watch I get the reference to drive now. refers to current at that location correct?
+cmatthys
That is what I am measuring with the scope, on the gate of the mosfet. The drive signal. That is what lead me to the open diode and open pair of 20 ohm resistors in parallel that I replaced with the 10 ohm.
+12voltvids I changed out the caps and the fets so far. The TV starts but not 1st time everytime. Im sure I need to replace the same resistors and diode next.
Real repairs love ur tv repair stuff!
good job very professional thank you congratulations
Very very good video .. one of the best ...
I have a problem with the same power supply it runs normal vs and va are good. After 2 minutes power relais clicks off and tv shuts down. After that it won't power on. Then unplug the tv and plug in and the tv starts again for 2 min. Have you got experience where i can find the problem. Thanx
Jimmy B - sounds like a thermal problem; a component is getting hot, then failing (or causing a nearby component to fail). An IR thermometer is recommended, so you don't have to use your fingers as temperature sensors! Check for leaky caps, as well as hot regulator ICs or transistors. Also see if there's a thermistor or resettable thermal fuse near heat sinks; these are a good clue that the designers sought to protect these components in case of overload!
Always informative, and interesting!
visual does not always tell you a bad cap. ESR is the only way to go!
All visual inspection will tell you is that the cap is totally fubar. This accounts for about the worst 10%.
The other 90% of electrolytic cap failures will only be discovered by measuring the ESR.
Great work as always. Take care.
Great work good information thanks..l love it...
Great video and advice as always 👍
Kind of funny , they push recycle , recycle, yet they make them unrepairable.
Plasma are quite repairable, LCD /LED not so much.
You are correct. I really enjoy your videos. I still do a fair amount of LCD screens. they can be a challenge.
by recycle they mean melt them down and reuse the materials lol. recycle does not mean refurbish :o)
@@12voltvids .. at 21:15 .. I think that those ICs had a manufacturing defect 🤨..... I mean.. I have seen exploded ICs.. with holes or a crater in them where it explodes ... others with literally a missing piece 😖.... but never clean open like that 😲 ... pretty cool huh 😃...
I have an idea that may be useful. What if you attach female pins to those pull up/pull down resistors so all you would have to do is slip them on the pins needed to force the power supply on?
I have a 226 BW Samsung monitor that I recently got a power supply board for. I installed the board and the monitor worked for a few minutes then it got streaky lines accros the screen and shut off and wouldnt start again. I examined the power supply board and found it was a 225BW he sent me although it fin fine and had all nessesary connectors and harness. could that be the problem as the two boards are almost exactly alike exept the 225 BW is missing two small IC's by the lamp ballast transformers
I have hp-r5052. Nov 2005 is there differences in common repair or compatibility boards? I buy some and one slight different on the board but all connects
Another great repair!!! How did you know which points to bridge and pull to ground at the connectors? Experience or is there a service manual floating somewhere?
What kind of switching converter was that? Boost converter? (I'm studying up on different topologies)
+Koffi Banan
The power supply is a smps, switch mode power supply, not a boost converter. As far as knowing what to pull high or low, I measured the ps on an VA on pins. The ps on had about 4.7 v on it, so that was a dead giveaway th it needed to go low, so the pull down resistor goes to cold ground. The VA switch input measures 0, so that one needs to be pulled high, so a pull up resistor added to the 5v standby supply. I had no manual or print for this repair. It was all done by my knowledge of how these circuits are designed and by logically breaking the unit into separate blocks and testing / isolating each block to find where the fault was. Also remembering the areas where cold solder had been found as cold solder joints has been an ongoing cause of component failure for as long as pcb construction has.
Thank you for your detailed response, I'm learning a lot!!
Nice video thanks for sharing.
nice bit of carpet there good for ESD sensitive components
As much as I have tried, I have yet to damage anything. ESD really is only bad for bare parts. Once mounted on a board, all the copper on the board and the other parts will dissipate most static charges before it is going to cause any problems.
No it don't ESD is all around no matter if it a component or fixed to a board you will still damage it with a static discharge fact
@@kevthegerbil1958
Actually that is incorrect. If that was the case all our smartphones would blow up as soon as you touched the screen. After all it is connected to the main board. This is why you short out the esd pads on a laser block of a CD player before you remove it and open the short after it is installed. The rest of the circuit dissipates build up charge. Laser diodes are one of the most sensitive devices to esd. Not saying it is impossible to damage a component on a board, if you zapped it with high voltage from a power supply for example but the charge built up o. your body is extremely unlikely to cause any problem. In the 35 years I have been repairing equipment the number of things I have damaged by esd is 0.
Hi! Excellent video. During the oscillation check, is the probe x1 or x10? Is there any risk to get a false "no oscillation" due the probe?
+Fer Cava The probe is in x10 mode most of the time to it has a high impedance and wont kill the oscillator.
Did you use a 1k resistors on both ps-on and std-5v pins jumpers ? cheers
great video! I have a samsung plasma 2013 51" than had a few horizontal stripes, then when i udated the firmware, i had two loud bangs and the screen went dead. any idea?
No idea but loud bangs is never a good sign.
@@12voltvids is there protocol on diagnosis to find out which board is broken? I will try to order parts online. Samsung Thailand wants half the price of a new TV to fix it(without diagnosis). Sounds like controlled obsoleteness?
thumbs up, subscribed ... what's else ?? waiting for another videos, Sir !!
Hi and thanks for your video. I have the same model and my problem is the Ve=13v instead of normaly 96V. All the another voltage is ok (va,vs...).The picture is not good. What can i have to change plz ?
at 21:15 .. I think that those ICs had a manufacturing defect 🤨..... I mean.. I have seen exploded ICs.. with holes or a crater in them where it explodes ... others with literally a missing piece 😖.... but never clean open like that 😲 ... pretty cool huh 😃...
Loose ground screws. It went pop. Tv belongs to a friend. It is still working and in use daily.
Hope he added more heat sink compound: old stuff looked like it cooked dry
Stupid question gets as equally as stupid an answer.
I removed all the heat sink grease from every semi because that stuff isn't needed.
Congratulations! !!
I have the Samsung model HPT5054X/XAA same components layout like yours but I see your model number is different any chance they can be diagnosed the same, my trouble is all video channels blanked out but have audio, any thoughts at what to look at first
i have a samsung 60" plasma that has no picture but sound and when i opened the back panel i saw that the T con health led is blinking on for about 5 sec and off for another 3 sec, i check the power supply is ok and i couldn't find any problems on the Y-sus or the X main, i went thru and re-solder all the FET and capacitors but nothing changes.
Check all the buffer ICs as shown in my other video that deals with a bad buffer board.
nice job - I have a Samsung HP-S5053 Power board problem, how do I get a hold of you
Cool video. I have one with no picture. I do get sound. Screen goes gray. Any idea what the problem is? Thanks
I was told you cant get accurate ESR readings with the caps in place? that you need to disconnect one side on the board
not true at all
i have a problem with my samsung plasma tv ppm50m7hb no display but have sound the other night the video just quit and sound was still going but no menu when i turn it on it blinks 5 times and stays solid after the 5
You should step them up to 35 volts, and definitely use 105°.......
There's enough physical room for a larger voltage cap.!!
105 is always used in power supply circuits.
Congrats. You fixed a real dog.
I have several around here that are barking. Heck you can hear them on some of my other videos.
amazing video.
Do you know where I find it? or on which website do they sell this plate?
Well done
thanks for another great vid
Hi, great informative videos thank you, My Samsung Plasma went bang, model number PS43E490B1K, Now red standby light comes on, when you turn it on it flashes and there is sound, but no picture, could you direct me as to where to start?
Check for blown igbt and MOSFET on sustain boards. Check buffer boards for shorted IC.
hi may i pls ask for any help , I have SAMSUNG PS42C96HDX/XEU , will not start, the PSU is DYP-42W2PLUS, STB 5V ok , blue led comes on flashes a couple of seconds , i hear relay ON ( normal click ) and then imediately it seems to go OFF ( softer click ) .In August ( max hot ambient 40 DEg C ! ) , the set used to require 20 min off the mains and then it would start , but then it stopped doing this, , i need schematic if possible and how to force ON for bench testing. this video is very clear on this, cam one assume ithe procedure PSON to GRD & STB5V to VSON will work for this PSU ?? 12voltids is a very interesting , knowledgable , clever guy , and a REAL PRO . being of a similar background I would love to be friends , and not just for this repair ! Cheers very good work , unlike many really useless videos out there. Dear Sir any email You can be reached ???
I lost drive, the diodes opened and the 10 ohms opened . where do I get the chip diodes?
How do you determine the volts and amps on a MOSFET?
I always wondered if plasma tvs run so hot then how come no one thought of putting computer case fans in the back to make them last longer ?
Panasonic does. I have a 42" one with 4 fans in the top.
Bro can u tell me wats the value of Resistor connected between VS-ON and Stdby and PS-ON to Ground....
Hello 12 volts I have a Samsung Lcd tv Model LE19r86BD All the voltages from the output of the power supply are all measuring okay as stated on the board I think my power supply is okay any ideas Neilson Shetland islands
I have Samsung HP-R5072. Has same power supply All voltages good. Push button on front of TV Chimes . Set will not come on No picture no sound. All voltages on power module are present. What triggers set on. I feel I am missing a key voltage some where. Any suggestions??
+Richard Gigliotti Not really, I am not familiar with that model number.
these boards have bad solder joints around the mosfets the 42in models and 50in I repaired alot of these sets
Yes I am aware of that. Did it on this set too. Always resolder the mosfet and diodes.
Hi sir nice informative vedio , i working on lg 42" plasma tv and can't find the problem it has standby led but went press power on tv or remote nothing happens .The power supply has all its voltage going to main board and sustain boards there is no buldge cap or any transistor on sustain boards thats bad there is nothing happens when power button is press can you help me out sir thanks.
Hello I love your videos. Am having a problem wit my amplifier. Is a goldstar GSA -9320. The problem am having is that the ceramic resistors 3w 0.22ohms. R getting hot to smoke just a few seconds on current. On 1 channel. I can't get my head around it. I don't no if the stk ic can make that. Can u please help me out.
If could get pics to u of the amp.
I still have this tv
can you test a cap other than with an ESR tester? im new to this and learning.
Great Job!
can you tell me how to fix a hazing issue with a hpt 5054