Dear Gil: The optimal temperature, for the growth of Chlorella vulgaris is between 25° and 30°C (77 to 86°F), with 77°F producing the fastest, propagation rate. Research suggests it can tolerate temperatures as low as 5°C (41°F). My house is at 68°F. Thank you, for your interest and support. All my best, Sincerely, Brinegar
Dear Sam: Yes, you can use “pickling salt,” which contains no iodine, from Walmart. I find it cheapest, to purchase 40lbs bags, of pure NaCl, at Tractor Supply. Although it contains some impurities and is not fit for human consumption; I’ve had no issues, using it, to hatch brine shrimp, or as an additive, in culturing green water. I hope you have good success, with your hobby. All my best, Sincerely, Brinegar
Dear Viewer: Search this on Amazon: Compact Aquarium Siphon Vacuum and Water Changer Kit with Cleaning Brush. Perfect for Simultaneous Water Changing and Cleaning in Small Fish Tanks. Gravel and Sand Cleaning. The first result (sold by AREPK) comes with this, particular attachment. Though the “air-wand” does not appear to be sold, separately, it should be no problem, to make something similar, with rigid tubing and an elbow-joint. Thank you, for your interest and lovely comment. All my best, Sincerely, Brinegar
Dear Navaneeth: I am not measuring the Osmocote or sodium chloride. I simply added several ounces of pulverized, Osmocote, in solution and a mere squirt of sodium chloride, in solution, to a gallon of dechlorinated water, containing Chlorella vulgaris. It appears my estimates were correct, as the “green water” culture continues to thrive. Thank you for your interest. All my best, Sincerely, Brinegar
Nice tutorial. Have you tried using just aquarium water instead of fertilizer? I usually use water from an established tank but I place my culture outdoor, so I wondering if it will work indoor under artifical light.
Dear DA: Chlorella vulgaris (and other, free-floating species of algae) reproduce asexually by mitosis, forming autospores that are released when the parent cell ruptures. I believe the reason water turns green, more quickly outside is because such autospores are more readily available, outside. Once one has a “starter culture” of a free-floating algae, all he needs to do is ensure that it receives sufficient light and fertilizer and make sure that the water is in motion, so that the algae does not settle; to propagate it. Used, aquarium water is unlikely to contain free-floating algae. It may contain some nutrients, but with the use of Osmocote and a bit of salt, I can ensure my Chlorella vulgaris is well fertilized. I can also prevent the culture from becoming infested with mosquitoes and culture green water, during cold weather, when I do this, indoors. Thank you, for your interest and assistance. All my best, Sincerely, Brinegar
Great tutorial mate. Is there a minimum temperature to achieve this?
Dear Gil:
The optimal temperature, for the growth of Chlorella vulgaris is between 25° and 30°C (77 to 86°F), with 77°F producing the fastest, propagation rate. Research suggests it can tolerate temperatures as low as 5°C (41°F). My house is at 68°F.
Thank you, for your interest and support.
All my best,
Sincerely,
Brinegar
NaCl is just table salt,non iodine, and water. Am I right?
Dear Sam:
Yes, you can use “pickling salt,” which contains no iodine, from Walmart. I find it cheapest, to purchase 40lbs bags, of pure NaCl, at Tractor Supply. Although it contains some impurities and is not fit for human consumption; I’ve had no issues, using it, to hatch brine shrimp, or as an additive, in culturing green water.
I hope you have good success, with your hobby.
All my best,
Sincerely,
Brinegar
Nice video, where did you get the air wand ?
Dear Viewer:
Search this on Amazon:
Compact Aquarium Siphon Vacuum and Water Changer Kit with Cleaning Brush. Perfect for Simultaneous Water Changing and Cleaning in Small Fish Tanks. Gravel and Sand Cleaning.
The first result (sold by AREPK) comes with this, particular attachment. Though the “air-wand” does not appear to be sold, separately, it should be no problem, to make something similar, with rigid tubing and an elbow-joint.
Thank you, for your interest and lovely comment.
All my best,
Sincerely,
Brinegar
How much ratio or npk should be taken and how much dose is added per liter?
Dear Navaneeth:
I am not measuring the Osmocote or sodium chloride. I simply added several ounces of pulverized, Osmocote, in solution and a mere squirt of sodium chloride, in solution, to a gallon of dechlorinated water, containing Chlorella vulgaris. It appears my estimates were correct, as the “green water” culture continues to thrive.
Thank you for your interest.
All my best,
Sincerely,
Brinegar
Nice tutorial. Have you tried using just aquarium water instead of fertilizer? I usually use water from an established tank but I place my culture outdoor, so I wondering if it will work indoor under artifical light.
Dear DA:
Chlorella vulgaris (and other, free-floating species of algae) reproduce asexually by mitosis, forming autospores that are released when the parent cell ruptures. I believe the reason water turns green, more quickly outside is because such autospores are more readily available, outside. Once one has a “starter culture” of a free-floating algae, all he needs to do is ensure that it receives sufficient light and fertilizer and make sure that the water is in motion, so that the algae does not settle; to propagate it.
Used, aquarium water is unlikely to contain free-floating algae. It may contain some nutrients, but with the use of Osmocote and a bit of salt, I can ensure my Chlorella vulgaris is well fertilized. I can also prevent the culture from becoming infested with mosquitoes and culture green water, during cold weather, when I do this, indoors.
Thank you, for your interest and assistance.
All my best,
Sincerely,
Brinegar