Thank you for posting this. I am getting ready to replace the heads on a 2007 Jeep 3.7 V6 (same basic engine design). The valve timing was the only thing I was not sure about. Your video and description was the best I found.
Thanks for watching . Yes the marks on the chain make it easy and take the guess work out . The trickiest part is rotating the cam but any means of rotating it slightly without damaging it will work . I'd say the biggest thing is just taking ones time not rushing it and making sure it's 100 % right the first time . But I'm glad the video could help and good luck on your project and thanks again .
+musiclv82 once the pins are pulled on the tensions they should take up alot of slack . However the best I remember one side had some slack while the other was tight . As long as all the marks are aligned and tensioners in place and torqued all should be fine. I've heard or tensioner bolts working loose I believe next one I do I will also be using medium loctite. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
I think my 07 needs some chain/tensioner work. It has a rattle that comes on at 2600 rpms whether I'm up shipping or down shifting. The engine has 108K on it and all original. Figure I'll do the lash adjusters at the same time since I got some making noise at cold start.
Ken Robinson my 02 Jeep WJ 4.7 does the same thing. Cold and at low speeds it clicks. I can’t afford to have it repaired. Hope it doesn’t do too much damage.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it could help. Like with a lot of things once you've got hands on its not as bad as you thought it would be. Only other critical is just taking time to torque all the tensioner bolts etc to specs . Thanks again
I though the top gear on top of the crank gear was like a cam.really tore it up vise grips.The top gear turns on that solid shaft.that shaft ain't supports to turn:-(
Cool, that answers my question about how the tensioners are attached. I’ve got a faulty “clicking” tensioner on my 02 Jeep WJ 4.7L. Other than the noise, how much damage could it do if I keep driving it. I only hear it when it’s cold and at low speeds. Once warmed up and over 50mph it goes away. Thanks.
It may be OK if it's lasted so far, I guess the worse case would be if it jumped time . I had a truck the same way seems like there was a loose tensioner or something . It wasn't worth taking it all apart just for a little noise . It's definitely one of those things where I'd be wanting to go in and replace a lot of part before I'd want to tackle because it's a big job just to make it worth while . Thanks for watching
s33therfan Thanks. That’s what I’m thinking. I’ll live with it until I can afford the repair. But I might as well replace the water pump, alternator, etc at the same time. I’m gonna cross my fingers and hope for the best. It’s a 2002 but only has 113K miles. Thanks for the reply.
If the timing chain were to be off a tooth or two is that fixable by just setting the cams back in the right spot or would timing cover have to come off as well?
I am not sure , but I could only guess at 1000 to 2000 to have a shop do it. Hopefully someone else can chime in. Great question and thanks for the feedback.
I could really use some help even somebody to call and talk me through putting my truck in time.ive been without a vehicle for 3 months any help at all is better than none.
Do you know how it got out of time ? And in the truck it won't be easy but you'll have to start with getting the whole front of that truck off and getting that front cover off of the engine etc. The cams can be turned with some big pliers . Pretty much will have to start just like in my timing video , to know everything is lined up properly with those marks . You'll need to get everything off clean it up a little to even see . The tensioner will all need removed loosened . It's really not that difficult but definitely going to be more difficult inside the truck . I would just get all that stuff in the front out of the way to get easier access radiator condenser everything , I've also got some videos on replacing the engine somewhere that should show some of what's to be removed . I guess firstly I'd want to make sure it was indeed in time , also these trucks are notorious for blowing head gaskets . I can tell you first hand it's way easier and cheaper to find another engine that it is to rebuild and fix . Another bit of advice on these engines many years of 2001 up Durango Dakota ram 4.7l will work , and actually replacing the firing trigger or reluctor ring on an older engine is sometimes way cheaper than buying a newer . Basically you will need to get the valve covers and that front cover off in order to get started doing anything . Make sure put the bolts exactly where and what they came from when disassembling . Let me know if what questions you have I'm glad to help
Ya man.i did all that.but idk which one of the 2 links it goes on.do uk if its the first one or the seccond one.if ur if ur making the chain go to the right
It has new head gaskets and everything.all sensors are new.its jus when it starts it goes to about 2 grand now.and it wont idle back down.it jus shuts off.but its hot out here its like 95 degrees most time were i live.
Yes sir it's a 100 here , it's definitely rough , I don't have a fancy shop or anything either . Here's a link i don't know if it will work . www.google.com/search?q=4.7l+timing+marks&oq=4.7l+timing&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.8373j0j7&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ieUTF=-8#imgrc=RoyAFsGj1E7SdM: That's an image that'll make more sense . You'll have to use rubber bands like I did to hold it together from moving once it's aligned. Once the dots on the crank and idler are aligned vertically the cam chains 2 plated links show through both idler sprocket windows. OK once you have that the tricky part is using rubber bands to hold that because it's all good . Now you just have to rotate each overhead cam for the dot to align exactly on the blue plated link there should only be one dot on that cam sprocket . The v8 will basically point straight up on both cam sprocket.
Just wanted to add this the 2 blue plated links will show through the idler sprocket window or slot , just like in that image I sent if they are not both in the window and viewable it needs adjusted accordingly . The single blue plated link goes on the one dot on the cam sprocket and the v8 should be at 12 o'clock about .
I do not know exactly what the difference of the timing sprocket/kit is , but if you have a 3 prong ecm ( 16 tooth JTEC ) or 4 prong ecm plug (32 tooth NGC ) , then make sure when you order it states whichever one you have. Ebay for instance states on the majority of their timing kits jtec or ngc. Thanks for watching.
thanks for the info in this video. one suggestion tho, don't shoot vertical video, always shoot horizontal. both vertical and horizontal is for photos but horizontal only for videos.
Appreciate this video! Almost let it slip passed me while doing head gaskets. Mine was a few links off from tdc.
Thank you for the great feedback , much appreciated.
this is the best video I have found for timing marks hands down ! well done and thanks for your time :)
Thank you for watching and I appreciate the feedback I invite you to like and subscribe . Thanks again for watching
Very helpful, thanks. just replaced heads, and I figured it was gonna be difficult, alright, my turn.
Hope all goes smoothly , thank you for watching.
Thank you for posting this. I am getting ready to replace the heads on a 2007 Jeep 3.7 V6 (same basic engine design). The valve timing was the only thing I was not sure about. Your video and description was the best I found.
Thanks for watching . Yes the marks on the chain make it easy and take the guess work out . The trickiest part is rotating the cam but any means of rotating it slightly without damaging it will work . I'd say the biggest thing is just taking ones time not rushing it and making sure it's 100 % right the first time . But I'm glad the video could help and good luck on your project and thanks again .
Did the chain have any slack in it at all once you put tensioners on it?
+musiclv82 once the pins are pulled on the tensions they should take up alot of slack . However the best I remember one side had some slack while the other was tight . As long as all the marks are aligned and tensioners in place and torqued all should be fine. I've heard or tensioner bolts working loose I believe next one I do I will also be using medium loctite. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
I think my 07 needs some chain/tensioner work. It has a rattle that comes on at 2600 rpms whether I'm up shipping or down shifting. The engine has 108K on it and all original. Figure I'll do the lash adjusters at the same time since I got some making noise at cold start.
Ken Robinson my 02 Jeep WJ 4.7 does the same thing. Cold and at low speeds it clicks. I can’t afford to have it repaired. Hope it doesn’t do too much damage.
Thanks for the Great information
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it could help. Like with a lot of things once you've got hands on its not as bad as you thought it would be. Only other critical is just taking time to torque all the tensioner bolts etc to specs . Thanks again
I though the top gear on top of the crank gear was like a cam.really tore it up vise grips.The top gear turns on that solid shaft.that shaft ain't supports to turn:-(
Cool, that answers my question about how the tensioners are attached. I’ve got a faulty “clicking” tensioner on my 02 Jeep WJ 4.7L. Other than the noise, how much damage could it do if I keep driving it. I only hear it when it’s cold and at low speeds. Once warmed up and over 50mph it goes away. Thanks.
It may be OK if it's lasted so far, I guess the worse case would be if it jumped time . I had a truck the same way seems like there was a loose tensioner or something . It wasn't worth taking it all apart just for a little noise . It's definitely one of those things where I'd be wanting to go in and replace a lot of part before I'd want to tackle because it's a big job just to make it worth while . Thanks for watching
s33therfan Thanks. That’s what I’m thinking. I’ll live with it until I can afford the repair. But I might as well replace the water pump, alternator, etc at the same time. I’m gonna cross my fingers and hope for the best. It’s a 2002 but only has 113K miles. Thanks for the reply.
If the timing chain were to be off a tooth or two is that fixable by just setting the cams back in the right spot or would timing cover have to come off as well?
I would remove the front cover and set the timing. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Thank you brother this made things make sense again lmao
Thank you very much for the kind feedback and I thank you for watching
Do you have to remove the engine to do the riming chain?
You could do it in the vehicle , it would be difficult to say the least . It could be done though. Thanks for watching.
What is adv.cost of replacement. Live in Texas and need honest tech.
I am not sure , but I could only guess at 1000 to 2000 to have a shop do it. Hopefully someone else can chime in. Great question and thanks for the feedback.
I could really use some help even somebody to call and talk me through putting my truck in time.ive been without a vehicle for 3 months any help at all is better than none.
Do you know how it got out of time ? And in the truck it won't be easy but you'll have to start with getting the whole front of that truck off and getting that front cover off of the engine etc. The cams can be turned with some big pliers . Pretty much will have to start just like in my timing video , to know everything is lined up properly with those marks . You'll need to get everything off clean it up a little to even see . The tensioner will all need removed loosened . It's really not that difficult but definitely going to be more difficult inside the truck . I would just get all that stuff in the front out of the way to get easier access radiator condenser everything , I've also got some videos on replacing the engine somewhere that should show some of what's to be removed . I guess firstly I'd want to make sure it was indeed in time , also these trucks are notorious for blowing head gaskets . I can tell you first hand it's way easier and cheaper to find another engine that it is to rebuild and fix . Another bit of advice on these engines many years of 2001 up Durango Dakota ram 4.7l will work , and actually replacing the firing trigger or reluctor ring on an older engine is sometimes way cheaper than buying a newer . Basically you will need to get the valve covers and that front cover off in order to get started doing anything . Make sure put the bolts exactly where and what they came from when disassembling . Let me know if what questions you have I'm glad to help
Ya man.i did all that.but idk which one of the 2 links it goes on.do uk if its the first one or the seccond one.if ur if ur making the chain go to the right
It has new head gaskets and everything.all sensors are new.its jus when it starts it goes to about 2 grand now.and it wont idle back down.it jus shuts off.but its hot out here its like 95 degrees most time were i live.
Yes sir it's a 100 here , it's definitely rough , I don't have a fancy shop or anything either . Here's a link i don't know if it will work .
www.google.com/search?q=4.7l+timing+marks&oq=4.7l+timing&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.8373j0j7&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ieUTF=-8#imgrc=RoyAFsGj1E7SdM:
That's an image that'll make more sense . You'll have to use rubber bands like I did to hold it together from moving once it's aligned. Once the dots on the crank and idler are aligned vertically the cam chains 2 plated links show through both idler sprocket windows. OK once you have that the tricky part is using rubber bands to hold that because it's all good . Now you just have to rotate each overhead cam for the dot to align exactly on the blue plated link there should only be one dot on that cam sprocket . The v8 will basically point straight up on both cam sprocket.
Just wanted to add this the 2 blue plated links will show through the idler sprocket window or slot , just like in that image I sent if they are not both in the window and viewable it needs adjusted accordingly . The single blue plated link goes on the one dot on the cam sprocket and the v8 should be at 12 o'clock about .
How many miles did the vehicle have on it
I believe it was around 180k or so at this time . Thanks for the feedback.
How can I verify to get the correct Cam Sprocket (JTEC or NGC)?
I do not know exactly what the difference of the timing sprocket/kit is , but if you have a 3 prong ecm ( 16 tooth JTEC ) or 4 prong ecm plug (32 tooth NGC ) , then make sure when you order it states whichever one you have. Ebay for instance states on the majority of their timing kits jtec or ngc. Thanks for watching.
thanks for the info in this video. one suggestion tho, don't shoot vertical video, always shoot horizontal. both vertical and horizontal is for photos but horizontal only for videos.
I appreciate the advice and thanks for watching
s33therfan no problem, thanks again for taking the time to post videos like this.
What was the chain guide torque
20.8 ft lb or 250 inch lb . I used some medium locktite on mine as well. Thanks for watching
Hi very nice
Thank you for the feedback and glad you found the video helpful thanks for watching and I invite you to like and subscribe
Damn blow your nose 😂