This is the exact product I used: www.homedepot.ca/product/multy-home-all-purpose-ribbed-recycled-rubber-3-mm-thickness-36-inch-x-custom-length-roll-runner/1001523620
This project just went to the top of my list of projects. So far I have made your dungeon tiles, tents, blood monster mini, and have taken so much inspiration from you. Thanks for all you do.
Amazing! Would also make for great modular caves. Man, you could even use a bigger piece to create a full size battlemat that you can roll up. You got the juices flowin' here, bud!
This may be as iconic of a video and contribution as the dungeon tiles from years ago. Roads, rivers, ponds, craters…man the possibilities are staggering. Good stuff, man!
If any Australians are watching, you can get a roll of insertion rubber by moroday which is 1.5mm thick, 200mm width and 2m length roll from bunnings for 18 dollars. I then just used Polyfilla coloured gap filler from bunnings also. They both worked a treat.
You’re a genius. It’s been years since you personally got me into crafting and then into mini painting, and I can’t believe that somehow you continue to deliver amazing content that is funny, useful, beginner-friendly, accessible anywhere, and you make all the mistakes and explain your reasoning along the way. As an engineer that loves doing art and hobbying, I appreciate SO MUCH your thought process as you do your crafting. Please never quit, and I can’t wait to get a hold of Idols of Torment to get crafting and playing!
I'm going to use this to make bases for my clusters of trees. I like the trees being movable to move models in and out of the woods but to still have the clear line of where the section of woods/difficult terrain begins and ends.
I bet you could also make modular rivers and creeks using the same method. This video gives me a few new ideas that I would never have considered. Thank you for always coming up with some amazing ideas.
I literally squealed in excitement for this!!! I've been pondering how to make a modular road with caulking for years. Yours is exactly what I envisioned. Well done Jeremy :)
Love this idea! I was shying away from making roads for the same reasons, now I'm gonna make some next weekend! This would even work for Dungeons and keep my light weight flimsy foam tiles from moving all around.
Approachable, affordable, and adaptable. This is the kind of video I want to see when I click on your videos Jeremy, this one is a winner in my book. Thanks
I love that you're spreading the love of hardware supply hobby techniques. lately I've been trying out expanding foam as a base for hill terrain to mixed results.
Looking fantastic and rugged! Suggestion for version 2.0, or just a neat variation: Rubber latex! RD-407 by monster Makers for a liquid, and/or Mold Builder for a thick application. With either of those, you'd get the same practical properties as your rubber mats, but your edges would be more organic and taper more subtly, the latex itself can be tinted, and you'd be sure of never suffering from delamination. You'd have even more control of the thickness of each piece, including variations from super thin (extra flex there) and thick(extra weight). As for painting over it: just tint the same latex with either pigments or acrylic paint. This way, the paint bonds with the latex, they don't crack or peel off. To dilute, always use distilled water to avoid the premature coagulation that some tap water creates. Application: on a non-stick surface with your road design drawn on (or under if it's transparent), pour your liquid latex and move it around with a stick or painting knife until you have your shape. When it's dry, repeat if you need more thickness / texture. The Mold Builder's thickness is your friend here. Add rocks and sand when things are still malleable, just like you did here. Same as for paper mache, I always use a fan at lowest speed to ensure air flow to speed up drying. I've made warts for a dragon puppet by pouring some liquid latex over a scrap piece of polyfoam (upholstery foam), and left it to dry. The edges were perfect. And once dry, it was easy to peel off and glue (contact cement) to a polar fleece puppet's face. I can imagine this approach working real well for a puddle of potion or acid. Think fake vomit prop! To ensure proper permanent bonding between latex applications, it's often recommended to add within 24 hours of each layer. But I've repainted older pieces (years old) with new latex and never got any such problems as long as I cleaned the old latex thoroughly with dish soap and water, and dried it fully before painting. I base my suggestion on my experience working with such latexes for making masks, puppets and props for Theatre. Enemies of latex: UV rays: Yes, you can use the sets outdoors for an event, and every time, it will reduce the lifespan a bit. Just make sure not to store or display in sunlight, just store in the dark, you'll easily get 20 years of working life. 25 seems to be the peak lifespan according to some FX artists, but it really depends on usage and storage conditions. Sugar: Major no-no. It eats away at latex like acid, but slowly enough we don't notice at first. Human sweat and oils: they also attack the latex. Over time, it gets sticky, then it falls apart. Just don't wear the stuff during workouts! The weaknesses are negligible when one considers the advantages of rubber latex: nearly indestructible because it stretches and resists impacts, lays really flat too.
There is a material that is less expensive and more readily available and just a little bit thinner without those rolling ridges, but still works great. Shower tub liner PVC 40 mils. Also I couldn't find Jeremy's material at my local hardware stores including Home Depot. Glad I didn't find it, because what I found is a better replacement.
Thanks...I learned a lot about hydronics from long time cannabis growers and am learning lots of great techniques for my Christmas village from gamers like you. These roads are exactly what I've been looking for. I like the thin, flexible end product that's easily storable. And, with a little thinking about possible uses, I was able to design modular pieces that will work in mmultiple configurations. I even bevel the end for near seamless joints. BTW - LOVE the texture rollers on EVP foam... Another one of your tips saving lots of time, frustration and work! My diorama platform has tier levels and I use styro blocks as piers to hold them up. Rather than screwing around with paper, plaster sheets and painting to fill in the gaps between tiers, I use 1/2" EVP foam cut into strips to fit the vertical distance between tiers, then texture with the rollers and paint - I even use black EVA foam and can skip all that black washing. Shoved into the spaces between tiers look just like rock ledges. And they tear down quick and easy for next year. I also use 1/16in EVA foam sheets as base over diorama wood. I slice an X where an electric assessory (Lamp post light) is positioned and run the cords under the foam. Hidden from sight above the foam the wires nestle into the under side of the foam. A quick dusting of snow and the X is easily concealed.
Holy poop. You just solved my cobbled town streets project. The warlock tile stuff is ri-donk-ulous now, and I already own the 'greenstuff world' rolling pin deally. DEAD simple. Thank you! - long time lurker
You are a genius. I love the way you researched the products you used. I work in the hardware /paint /craft section of a big box store. The stuff I learn from your videos allow me the be smarter with my recomendations to my customers. You would be surprised by how much crafting / technique knowledge works for good customer service.
I've needed more roads for the longest time but never found any terrain videos that I liked. All of them had the problems that you describe, curling being my most hated flaw. I saw that material at Lowes a few months ago and thought it would make decent roads. But I'm no terrain maker and had no idea how to implement it. Sir you are a genius and a hero. Thank you so much for the great content!
The table itself can be the road, make the landscape an overlay with the road section cut out so the table shows through. This combination also gives the road the illusion of natural compressed furrows.
I recently became a new follower and I just LOVE your content. I gotta say thank you so much for being so passionate and yet so willing to share your trade secrets. I'll label them as a trade secret only because as you pointed out in the video we got the privilege of watching a 10 minute video of what could have taken you years to achieve. Massive treat for your followers here to see this tried and trued newfound method! Thank you Black Magic Craft
TOPTIP, if you have problems with them curling, just store them rolled with the texture out for a while! it'll clear right up! Same thing works great for playmats!
Superb! What a great solution. You could do rivers the same way too. Just line the banks with caulk more than the centre, pour on a bit of resin with a touch of brown ink...presto!
I tried this method and it worked exactly as advertised. Now I have some cool looking modular roads, thanks a bunch! The only improvement I can think of, is using a thinner rubber mat. I used a 3mm as shown, but a 1mm would wotk as well I think, would drive the cost even further down and create an even flatter road.
Wow! What a great innovative idea! Nice find and great execution. I also appreciated that you made these with just regular craft paint and brush and didn't use fancy airbrush and oil wash techniques, which one could totally do and totally bring it up to next level if they wanted of course! But you show here that it isn't needed, which is great and so accessible to many.
So keep the ridge on top, acrylic paint of dark brown. Dry brush lightly and I am thinking ploughed fields. Maybe too regular and wrong size for 28mm but it's got me thinking.
This is unbelievably brilliant. I was looking to create building pads for my 40K ruins to slightly raise them off of the wargaming mat substrate I have. This would take care of curbs, sidewalks, and interior floors of those ruins in one inexpensive sheet with some light carving and cutting. No resin/plaster/foam/card stock tiles or several hours of gluing and construction. Genius.
I just commented on your desert mat video but you'll probably won't see the comment section there. Have you tried using Crackling varnish in your builds? It would probably look great in desert, canions and volcanic terrain.
These Came came Amazing!!! Simple and Easy, The caulking is perfecto!! I must make some, Not that I play the table top games I JUST LOVE to make the stuff!!! So One Word! BITCHIN!!
Huge thank you on this tut! I'm just getting into Gaslands and want to make modular enviro pieces, and this just hopped up in order on my to-do list! Super cool!
Drat. I've just printed a load of modular roads after ages of agonising over the same issues as you. I eventually gave up on flexibility. Now you've got me rethinking all over again with that fab result.
Thank you so much for this video. This method is genius! I couldn't find the same material at my local hardware stores, but found something similar that probably worked better for me (I'm doing 15mm wargaming for DBA)--but you got me looking in the right direction with the right keywords. My road is done and looks amazing. Now that I see your link there...my Home Depot does not carry that at all, no big deal, I found something at Lowes that worked perfectly.
Love this! I've been working on a lot of my terrain, but roads and rivers are one thing I'm still lacking...for a lot of the reasons you've noted here. Looks like I'll be headed to Home Depot this weekend! Thanks Jeremy!
Amazing, I've made rivers and roads with cardboard backing and you are right they don't stay perfectly flat. Think I'm going to have to level up my game.
Been following your vids for a while man, with forbidden psalm I started homebrewing my own setting your builds and techniques are invaluable resources as well as the community
Great material - I'll have to see if I can find any around here (no Home Depot, and the other places are hit-or-miss.) I was surprised when you didn't have the grooves running lengthwise, though - them showing through here and there would have looked like wagon ruts that are all over real roads like that. Anyway, another vote for modern roads/concrete sidewalks.
This is the exact product I used:
www.homedepot.ca/product/multy-home-all-purpose-ribbed-recycled-rubber-3-mm-thickness-36-inch-x-custom-length-roll-runner/1001523620
Aaaaand I’m going to Home Depot again. Thanks for that 😂
USA doesn't carry rubber like that one only vinyl or polyester :(
@@msolace580 yup 🫠
I have no homedepot in the UK 🥹
That's a holy grail of mine, right there. Thank you, sir.
I'm loving the recent more "back to the roots" style BMC videos.
Same!!
Yep
Me too!!!
I agree and Jeremy seems more enthusiastic too
Yup
This project just went to the top of my list of projects. So far I have made your dungeon tiles, tents, blood monster mini, and have taken so much inspiration from you. Thanks for all you do.
Amazing! Would also make for great modular caves. Man, you could even use a bigger piece to create a full size battlemat that you can roll up. You got the juices flowin' here, bud!
Yup! That’s why I bought a big piece! Lots of potential.
@Black Magic Craft can the mats be used to create battle mats or smaller scenes?
Yes!
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial This concept is where the rubber meets the road!
.
...Yeah, I'll just go stand in the corner and think about what I've done.
(last sentence) That's an extreme response, t.
This may be as iconic of a video and contribution as the dungeon tiles from years ago. Roads, rivers, ponds, craters…man the possibilities are staggering. Good stuff, man!
i was just gonna start cutting cardboard to make the old GW style roads when this popped up. this is great!
Just say no to cardboard roads
If any Australians are watching, you can get a roll of insertion rubber by moroday which is 1.5mm thick, 200mm width and 2m length roll from bunnings for 18 dollars. I then just used Polyfilla coloured gap filler from bunnings also. They both worked a treat.
You’re a genius. It’s been years since you personally got me into crafting and then into mini painting, and I can’t believe that somehow you continue to deliver amazing content that is funny, useful, beginner-friendly, accessible anywhere, and you make all the mistakes and explain your reasoning along the way. As an engineer that loves doing art and hobbying, I appreciate SO MUCH your thought process as you do your crafting. Please never quit, and I can’t wait to get a hold of Idols of Torment to get crafting and playing!
Agreed
I used that before, it was car mats with furrows, I used them for ploughed fields, never thought of doing roads, great idea.
Just posted that thought. Great minds and all that
Thought the same. Great idea.
To see the culmination of years of trail and error is amazing. The joy in your eyes when you have these successes is great!
I'm going to use this to make bases for my clusters of trees. I like the trees being movable to move models in and out of the woods but to still have the clear line of where the section of woods/difficult terrain begins and ends.
This is a breakthrough in terrain crafting! I can't wait to try this out!
I bet you could also make modular rivers and creeks using the same method. This video gives me a few new ideas that I would never have considered. Thank you for always coming up with some amazing ideas.
Absolutely! Probably not for a slow and still river, but you could make some really cool rapids using clear caulking.
These look *fantastic*, and have me wondering about streams, creeks, and other things to complicate movement.
I literally squealed in excitement for this!!! I've been pondering how to make a modular road with caulking for years. Yours is exactly what I envisioned. Well done Jeremy :)
I agree this issue has been killing me for years. Many a failed attempt.
Love this idea! I was shying away from making roads for the same reasons, now I'm gonna make some next weekend! This would even work for Dungeons and keep my light weight flimsy foam tiles from moving all around.
Approachable, affordable, and adaptable. This is the kind of video I want to see when I click on your videos Jeremy, this one is a winner in my book. Thanks
I love that you're spreading the love of hardware supply hobby techniques. lately I've been trying out expanding foam as a base for hill terrain to mixed results.
Oh man, not just roads, but you could make rivers out of this too!
Good looking out. Yes!
I just love how hard you try to hide how giddy you are with this, and failing at it :D
Looking fantastic and rugged! Suggestion for version 2.0, or just a neat variation: Rubber latex! RD-407 by monster Makers for a liquid, and/or Mold Builder for a thick application.
With either of those, you'd get the same practical properties as your rubber mats, but your edges would be more organic and taper more subtly, the latex itself can be tinted, and you'd be sure of never suffering from delamination. You'd have even more control of the thickness of each piece, including variations from super thin (extra flex there) and thick(extra weight). As for painting over it: just tint the same latex with either pigments or acrylic paint. This way, the paint bonds with the latex, they don't crack or peel off. To dilute, always use distilled water to avoid the premature coagulation that some tap water creates. Application: on a non-stick surface with your road design drawn on (or under if it's transparent), pour your liquid latex and move it around with a stick or painting knife until you have your shape. When it's dry, repeat if you need more thickness / texture. The Mold Builder's thickness is your friend here. Add rocks and sand when things are still malleable, just like you did here. Same as for paper mache, I always use a fan at lowest speed to ensure air flow to speed up drying.
I've made warts for a dragon puppet by pouring some liquid latex over a scrap piece of polyfoam (upholstery foam), and left it to dry. The edges were perfect. And once dry, it was easy to peel off and glue (contact cement) to a polar fleece puppet's face. I can imagine this approach working real well for a puddle of potion or acid. Think fake vomit prop!
To ensure proper permanent bonding between latex applications, it's often recommended to add within 24 hours of each layer. But I've repainted older pieces (years old) with new latex and never got any such problems as long as I cleaned the old latex thoroughly with dish soap and water, and dried it fully before painting.
I base my suggestion on my experience working with such latexes for making masks, puppets and props for Theatre.
Enemies of latex:
UV rays: Yes, you can use the sets outdoors for an event, and every time, it will reduce the lifespan a bit. Just make sure not to store or display in sunlight, just store in the dark, you'll easily get 20 years of working life. 25 seems to be the peak lifespan according to some FX artists, but it really depends on usage and storage conditions.
Sugar: Major no-no. It eats away at latex like acid, but slowly enough we don't notice at first.
Human sweat and oils: they also attack the latex. Over time, it gets sticky, then it falls apart. Just don't wear the stuff during workouts!
The weaknesses are negligible when one considers the advantages of rubber latex: nearly indestructible because it stretches and resists impacts, lays really flat too.
There is a material that is less expensive and more readily available and just a little bit thinner without those rolling ridges, but still works great. Shower tub liner PVC 40 mils. Also I couldn't find Jeremy's material at my local hardware stores including Home Depot. Glad I didn't find it, because what I found is a better replacement.
I’m going to try this. I’m assuming you meant pan liner. Any tips?
Awesome!
Missed an opportunity to say "This is where the rubber meets the road" though.
Underrated comment of the year nomination
Thanks...I learned a lot about hydronics from long time cannabis growers and am learning lots of great techniques for my Christmas village from gamers like you. These roads are exactly what I've been looking for. I like the thin, flexible end product that's easily storable. And, with a little thinking about possible uses, I was able to design modular pieces that will work in mmultiple configurations. I even bevel the end for near seamless joints. BTW - LOVE the texture rollers on EVP foam... Another one of your tips saving lots of time, frustration and work! My diorama platform has tier levels and I use styro blocks as piers to hold them up. Rather than screwing around with paper, plaster sheets and painting to fill in the gaps between tiers, I use 1/2" EVP foam cut into strips to fit the vertical distance between tiers, then texture with the rollers and paint - I even use black EVA foam and can skip all that black washing. Shoved into the spaces between tiers look just like rock ledges. And they tear down quick and easy for next year. I also use 1/16in EVA foam sheets as base over diorama wood. I slice an X where an electric assessory (Lamp post light) is positioned and run the cords under the foam. Hidden from sight above the foam the wires nestle into the under side of the foam. A quick dusting of snow and the X is easily concealed.
Holy poop. You just solved my cobbled town streets project. The warlock tile stuff is ri-donk-ulous now, and I already own the 'greenstuff world' rolling pin deally. DEAD simple. Thank you! - long time lurker
Wow. Super impressive! Add this to your easy beginner builds. Very accessible!
You are a genius. I love the way you researched the products you used. I work in the hardware /paint /craft section of a big box store. The stuff I learn from your videos allow me the be smarter with my recomendations to my customers. You would be surprised by how much crafting / technique knowledge works for good customer service.
I've needed more roads for the longest time but never found any terrain videos that I liked. All of them had the problems that you describe, curling being my most hated flaw. I saw that material at Lowes a few months ago and thought it would make decent roads. But I'm no terrain maker and had no idea how to implement it. Sir you are a genius and a hero. Thank you so much for the great content!
Dude! Don't settle down. This is a GAMECHANGER!!!
I was unaware that roads were an issue but now I can see why they were. Great remedy.
Headed to home depot after work. 11/10 would rubber floor liner again and again.
I am sold on this. Will be trying this method when it stops raining outside....... Great video!
The table itself can be the road, make the landscape an overlay with the road section cut out so the table shows through. This combination also gives the road the illusion of natural compressed furrows.
Genius idea! I applaud you on these roads. I'm going to use this process for Bolt Action. Thanks!
Mmm. Forbidden peanut butter.
Holy smokes, I was looking for a way to make roads for my Wild West table and I'm hooked. Thank you I'm totally doing this and maybe rivers too!!
The lines showing through on the matt on the finished road reminds me of the little bumps you get on dirt roads after its rained
You could probably add in some washers on the ends hidden in the caulking to help add some more weight. They look really good!
These turned out great! I would be interested in seeing other road types like cobblestone, brick and modern paved roads too.
@Keenan Boscoe Mel has used the texture roller with caulk before; that would absolutely work and be the best way.
Jeremy! I have been waiting for this for 8 years..... Finally!
I recently became a new follower and I just LOVE your content. I gotta say thank you so much for being so passionate and yet so willing to share your trade secrets. I'll label them as a trade secret only because as you pointed out in the video we got the privilege of watching a 10 minute video of what could have taken you years to achieve. Massive treat for your followers here to see this tried and trued newfound method! Thank you Black Magic Craft
TOPTIP, if you have problems with them curling, just store them rolled with the texture out for a while! it'll clear right up! Same thing works great for playmats!
There was a firm few years back selling latex roads, and rivers sections.
Works well for rivers as well, went 5 wide for rivers and 2 wide for streams.
I want to see some rivers versions of these
Superb! What a great solution. You could do rivers the same way too. Just line the banks with caulk more than the centre, pour on a bit of resin with a touch of brown ink...presto!
Beautiful project Jeremy, this is why you are a legend
Awe shucks
I tried this method and it worked exactly as advertised. Now I have some cool looking modular roads, thanks a bunch! The only improvement I can think of, is using a thinner rubber mat. I used a 3mm as shown, but a 1mm would wotk as well I think, would drive the cost even further down and create an even flatter road.
These are dope. I've been working on roads Forever and this fixed EVERYTHING LOL!!! Thanks Bro!!!
Wow! What a great innovative idea! Nice find and great execution. I also appreciated that you made these with just regular craft paint and brush and didn't use fancy airbrush and oil wash techniques, which one could totally do and totally bring it up to next level if they wanted of course! But you show here that it isn't needed, which is great and so accessible to many.
These are the kind of builds that I truly enjoy! It's what got me into this whole Crafty lifestyle in the beginning. You're killing it man! Bravo
This is absolutely brilliant!
These look fantastic. I may need to swing by The Home Depot this afternoon.
Brilliant.
Used to recycle the magnetic fridge magnets used for advertising with acrylic felt glued on, but this is much better!
So keep the ridge on top, acrylic paint of dark brown. Dry brush lightly and I am thinking ploughed fields. Maybe too regular and wrong size for 28mm but it's got me thinking.
I love how excited and proud Jeremy is at the beginning. This is an absolute genius idea and this dude is right to be proud about it. Game changing
Definitely going to blow these up for quick modular Gaslands tracks
Holy smokes, those are great! Wish I had room on my layout for more roads.
Thank you thank you thank you!! I’ve been dealing with this same problem for years and years! I was beginning to think I was the only one.
I could see embedding magnets into this at different points. It would make rugged bases for forests with magnetized trees and rocks.
Wow! So impressive! You did it. Thank you thank you. I can't wait to make these with my daughter & her boyfriend.
This is unbelievably brilliant. I was looking to create building pads for my 40K ruins to slightly raise them off of the wargaming mat substrate I have. This would take care of curbs, sidewalks, and interior floors of those ruins in one inexpensive sheet with some light carving and cutting. No resin/plaster/foam/card stock tiles or several hours of gluing and construction. Genius.
please show us how to make cobblestone streets with these :)
You deserve some kind of medal.
Thank you so much for this. Just did my first run and waiting for it to dry.
I just commented on your desert mat video but you'll probably won't see the comment section there. Have you tried using Crackling varnish in your builds? It would probably look great in desert, canions and volcanic terrain.
Dude!!!! This is EXACTLY what I've been trying to make for years! You're a genius!
REALLY appreciate the video, the roads look great! Gonna give this a try myself as roads/paths have been an ongoing nightmare.
You just made about several thousands of Gaslands players extremely happy. I can see a boatload of uses for this technique.
Now for a whole terrain mat using the same material...nice work!
You could even take the textured side and use it for freshly ploughed fields, that liner material is incredible!
Freaggin awesome! So simple yet so functional.
Nice to see a hobby video that seems very straight forward and honest when it comes to the cost, materials and steps needed. So many of these aren’t.
Please do some asphalt roads and concrete sidewalks! These dirt roads look amazing great job!
Genius! Heading over to my local Big Box store. Thanks for posting.
Ha! I have a ton of this stuff in my garage from when my neighbors were complaining about foot traffic. This is awesome
These Came came Amazing!!! Simple and Easy, The caulking is perfecto!! I must make some, Not that I play the table top games I JUST LOVE to make the stuff!!! So One Word! BITCHIN!!
Huge thank you on this tut! I'm just getting into Gaslands and want to make modular enviro pieces, and this just hopped up in order on my to-do list! Super cool!
Well I know what I'm doing, this weekend! Especially since I had Gaslands plans.
Great idea!
Regarding wheel paths. One word: wagons.
One more word….horses. Think you misunderstood what I said.
Drat. I've just printed a load of modular roads after ages of agonising over the same issues as you. I eventually gave up on flexibility. Now you've got me rethinking all over again with that fab result.
5:55 I can't stop being hungry now xD
Epic! Love them!
At last! So simple! So elegant! Now how far to my nearest Home Depot.....?
Very excited to make some of these.
Further excited to tweak the method and make some rivers.
That is so ridiculously simple it’s absolutely brilliant!!! Where’s my keys - I’m heading to Home Depot!!!
I’ve been searching for this thing exactly.
Thank you so much for this video. This method is genius! I couldn't find the same material at my local hardware stores, but found something similar that probably worked better for me (I'm doing 15mm wargaming for DBA)--but you got me looking in the right direction with the right keywords. My road is done and looks amazing.
Now that I see your link there...my Home Depot does not carry that at all, no big deal, I found something at Lowes that worked perfectly.
New to your channel but I can see why you have such a dedicated following!! So cool to see you solve a common problem!
Those are fantastic! I need to give this a try. Thanks for sharing!
For quick and easy application of caulk, use ringed foam sponge or a folded wash cloth. Almost any practice and gloves stop being really necessary.
Love this! I've been working on a lot of my terrain, but roads and rivers are one thing I'm still lacking...for a lot of the reasons you've noted here. Looks like I'll be headed to Home Depot this weekend! Thanks Jeremy!
Boom! Dropped another game changer. Love it!!!
Sweet Sweet Sweet. Saving this one for sure.
I’m glad you have the time to mess with all this stuff to make our lives easier. Thanks
That’s what I’m here for
I think I will use this method to make rivers. I guess I will need both this special caulking and normal transparent type.
Amazing, I've made rivers and roads with cardboard backing and you are right they don't stay perfectly flat. Think I'm going to have to level up my game.
We’ve all been there, glad you figured it out so I can don’t have to deal with the headache. Props!
Been following your vids for a while man, with forbidden psalm I started homebrewing my own setting your builds and techniques are invaluable resources as well as the community
Great material - I'll have to see if I can find any around here (no Home Depot, and the other places are hit-or-miss.) I was surprised when you didn't have the grooves running lengthwise, though - them showing through here and there would have looked like wagon ruts that are all over real roads like that.
Anyway, another vote for modern roads/concrete sidewalks.