We all have differing methods of repairing damage to gun stocks. Now before I say anything I will say that I have been repairing damage to stock for some fifty years though now in retirement. I suppose being a brit will not help in the suggestions I am going to make so here goes. To remove that dent in the heel of the stock I would apply steam to raze the fibbers first you would be surprised how much and quickly they will return to their original position. Your adhesive and method works for you though far to much floating around the repair, I am more in favour of using clear Epoxey Adhesive less to hide on lighter wood stocks. Try this to get the adhesive into the break, use monofilament fishing line or dental floss to pull the adhesive down and through the crack or brake. your method of using Brass bolts is fine though it removes rather a lot of wood because of the depths you have to go to let in that size of Brass support . My method would remove less wood far easer to conceal, in that repair I would use stainless steel staples positioned across the break using to holes and removing just enough wood to let in the staple top. Stainless steel is less liable to move due to heat expansion , and staples have less mass and far stronger than Brass for a given section. As for clamping the use of cork or pencil erasers between the clamp faces and the stock is more desireable, in many cases straight pull clamps can not be used on gun stocks so the use of Bicycle inertube strips can be used with many advantages that include no damage, will mould to curves, apply as much force as you need. Just another way of doing things not a criticism, we all do things different ways though you may like to experiment sometime.
The clamp had almost no force on it, so the rather loose setup worked. The weight of the clamp was resting on the vise. We have lots of inner tube strap, however, didn't want to smear the glue on the existing finish. Hiding this repair was easy, we clamped a plate of aluminum over it! This stock is scheduled to be recut in a solid block of walnut once the fitters get her numbers right to deal with her neck anyway. My assignment here was to get the gun back up well enough to get to that point, only. I think the editing process might have diluted that point, or I failed to stress it. Again, your input is much appreciated. Thanks
I agree, also a Brit. I glued 6mm rubber pads to my G-clamps to stop marking the finished wood, not necessarily all on gun butts, but on a couple. I made brass bowties to keep both sides of the crack together. As you said there are many ways to fix finished wood items. Well done 👍
I was literally searching UA-cam, wishing there was a new Anvil video and then this showed up! Thank you for relieving my boredom with brilliantly interesting content 😁 one of my absolute favourites
“Learning how hard to hit it is a judgement call based on how many times you screwed it up, and I will guarantee you I have screwed it up more times you’ve tried to do it..” This is awesome because you, a master-level gunsmith, are teaching everyone that we should accept screwing up at all times. Thank you for teaching us us how screwing up over the years are pretty much free lessons on the road to become a master.
Now that was an outstanding tutorial. Love your work, you are the Gold Standard by which all other Gunsmith channels are compared too. Thank you for all your hard work we as a gun community appreciate it immensely.
What I find shocking is , this channel isn't monetized. This man is a engineer / craftsman of the highest order, historian, metallurgist, an excellent woodworker, refurbisher, and burnisher. Yet youtube can't loosen the purse strings to throw this master teacher a few coins .. This isn't insulting to Mark imo, I don't think he's teaching us for the money tbh. Some men are just born to educate others .
@@CAMSLAYER13 Have you seen the inflation #'s, the cost of everything ? .. Everyone needs free money in these times .. Take a look at yourself , you've had to become a camwhore to make ends meat .. Everyone's suffering in Joe Bidens america
mark, you are a major reason i decided to take Yavapai College's (Prescott, AZ.) Gunsmith course. (half way through now). Enjoy all your videos, appreciate you sharing your time and knowledge.
a technique that I was taught, for repairing a crack, it to use a hair dryer to blow the epoxy into the spread crack. The heat of the hair dryer thins the epoxy and the air helps direct the flow into the deepest parts of the crack. Works well for me. Great video, as usual.
There is also thin epoxy for lamination. The epoxy sucks right into the crack, no need to open the crack. Repaired a lot of wood this way without problems.
What an absolute pleasure it is to watch and moreover ‘listen’ to your content. You remind me of my high school sweethearts’ father who I learned very quickly would give you the history of the watch, if you asked him what time it was. I didn’t appreciate it at the time, but listening to you, brings back some pretty damn good memories. Thanks.
I like that you keep your chisels ridiculously sharp. The drudgery of maintaining that edge makes the job that much easier and more precise. Thanks, Mark. That sure did not seem like almost an hour. Time flies when you're having fun.
Love to watch you work Mark! I like working on my own guns but there’s a limit to what I’ll do! I did my son in law’s Winchester 74 that had been neglected for years. It was a working gun on a farm and isn’t collector grade by any stretch. But I fixed the action and replaced and fitted a new firing pin. Then some conservation. It works smoothly now and that’s all we wanted to do. Thank you for your wisdom!😊
Your attention to detail is astounding. I know alot of guys that would've just used Elmer's wood glue, throw a clamp on it, and call it even. I love to watch guys that really have the knowledge to do things right. I commend you for that
"Is the lighting alright for you?" Made me chuckle. Its one thing to have a skill like this, its another to be able to talk, in length, in detail about it. Somehow I can listen to you talk for an hour straight about a subject I have no familiarity with and atill understand enough to stay engaged all the way though.
Really enjoyed this. You turned me on to Acra Glass many videos ago so I hope this will return the favor. I have restored antique cutlery since the 70's and for blending and staining repairs in wood, bone, stag, etc nothing works as well as leather dye. It really penetrates, it dries almost as fast as you can put it on and it does not mess with anything you have to put over it. Tandy Leather has every color known to man but I get by with just 5 colors, once applied within 10 minutes you can go to whatever topcoats you want with no worries oil, poly whatever it may be. Using scrap wood I can custom blend colors to get an almost perfect match no one will know you were there.
I appreciate your tips and tricks. I don’t work on guns but your method of using a polished hammer face to move the material from a blown out brass screw is invaluable. I work on very large electric motors the ability to rework the small screws that hold oil rings together is great. Thanks.
A small pallet knife from an art supply store has been my epoxy application tool for decades. The blade is a very thin spring steel that gets into most tiny cracks.
I'm not a gunsmith, but I am a carpenter amongst other things, and I really appreciate your videos here. Engineering, fabrication, restoration and a lot of wisdom. Also Cigars. :)
I learn things from every video. That does not mean I am ever going to be a gunsmith. That is beyond me. However, I can perhaps learn what right looks like with regard to firearms repair and maintenance. Thanks Mark.
I would have needed to make a pair of shaped cauls for that gluing clamp up, but that's just me. I have never had much luck tightening a clamp pad on a curved surface like the heel and toe of this stock. I truly enjoy watching your methods of work. Your skill level and ingenuity in problem solving are very inspiring to me.
I don't know what people get out of ASMR, but whatever it is must be what I get out of these videos because I could watch this content all day. Thanks for making it!
Enjoyed the video. Laying those two screws in horizontally was brilliant. My first thought was to lay in an "I" piece of brass. But the threads on your screws is 100% better. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Mark thanks for another great video. What got my attention initially was the thumbnail of the 725 due to it being much newer than many of the other things you've brought to us. I also run a 725 as my primary clays gun so there was that additional interest. Browning right in the owners manual talks about the oul finish on the gun and goes so far as recommendations for stock maintenance by using a SMALL amount of TruOil or some others sparingly. The oil finish in these cases is TONS nicer comlared to the hard as nails finish they use to put on their stocks. Ive got arounf 15,000 rounds through mine and the insides look about as clean as the gun you had in the video. Thanks again!
I appreciate your delivery method. A combination of technical knowledge and just enough humor to make it not only helpful but enjoyable. So many in this business are either so dry or arrogant that it is work to watch them even when the advice is good. Your videos are very engaging.
Listening to your running commentary reminds me of a 1930s crime movie. Lots of interesting "turns of phrase" I do not encounter elsewhere. Always a pleasure. Thank you for all that you do.
Mark I have used your screw/ epoxy fix on a stock per your example in another video, but it was up where it was inletted for the receiver. I drilled the escape hole to let the air out to make sure the hole was filled with epoxy and that was worth it's weight. I've always had to fight the hydraulic effect and cavitation caused by that. I did like the bowtie suggestion the Brit offered and gluing pieces of innertube to the inside of the clamp jaws sounds like a viable idea too. but that's why I come here to learn and see how other people resolve these intricate problems. I try them and in the end it makes me a better craftsman. Thanks for every bodies help in this journey of life.
The most under rated statement you made is the polished hammer faces, that keeps from marring up the material I learned that years ago blacksmithing the mirrored finish of the hammer will transfer to the material your working with which leads to less finish up work. Great job on the project BTW ;)
The pattern of that wood is beautiful. My Dad has a Browning BAR, the reason he chose it, over a Remington was the amazing burl pattern of the stock wood.
Livestock supply stores have these syringes that use a curved plastic tube instead of a needle, and one of those would probably apply that AcraGlass into the crack a little cleaner.
I loved the analogy of sausage ... same thing for Worcestershire sauce, if you like it do NOT search and watch how it's made! Watching a Smith working on your own firearm can cause minor fits of the heeby jeebys BUT when a Master does his thing, it is a work of beauty! Excellent video as always Mark, thank you for sharing!
Wow Mr Novak, I have to say you scared the bejeezuz out of me when you wedged open that crack ... your experience, knowlege and cojones showed clear as daylight. Hmm, that's a bit of an odd metaphor, but it does the trick! Another great job.
A children's joke when I was in primary school: "What would you have if you could have anything in the world?" A:"A new butt. The old one's got a crack in it."
The complex geometry of old guns vs new is amazing. Almost all double barrels with ejectors are fancy for a reason.. thanks for walking through the sear engagments. It amazes me they could think of how to do this with mechanical systems/geometry and springs
I wish I could remember the name of the British gunmaker who made the hand-detachable boxlock double rifle. Built for safaris and such, the lock mechanisms could be removed without tools. They were gold plated for corrosion resistance and the rifles came with a spare lock. Ingenious as heck!
@@kennethjackson7574 Sounds like Holland & Holland but I don't know for sure. ChatGPT might have the answer. You got me curious now. Sounds pretty wild. Here's what I got: The British gunmaker famous for creating the hand-detachable boxlock double rifle is John Rigby & Co. John Rigby & Co., founded in 1775, has a long and prestigious history in firearms manufacturing, particularly in crafting high-quality rifles and shotguns. The hand-detachable boxlock design allows for easy removal of the barrels from the action for maintenance and transportation. This feature was especially appreciated for big game hunting rifles, where reliability and ease of maintenance were crucial in often challenging and remote environments. John Rigby & Co. has a legacy of producing exquisite and accurate rifles for hunting and sporting purposes. The company has had a significant impact on the development of firearms technology and is associated with the creation of iconic firearms. Please note that specific models and designs can vary over time, and if you are interested in a particular firearm or design from John Rigby & Co., it's recommended to consult their official website or reach out to authorized dealers for accurate and up-to-date information.
Ball-end hex ("Allen" is a trademark of the Holo-Krome Corporation) keys were invented during my lifetime (1964) by John Bondhus of the Bondhus Corporation. Sheer genius! I wish that I had thought of it. I was still in elementary school, but, still...
Wow! Great job! I repaired a crack in the forward part of the stock on a German WW2 G43 rifle caused by excess recoil from old, weakened recoil springs. A couple of things that you did here would have helped me blend and even completely hide any trace of the crack. Anyhow, never had a problem with it since.
Update on my restoration of the 1916 French M LE 16 in 8mm Lebel. I finally finished the rifle. Thank you so much for referring me to Graf n Son's. They do have the ammo and at a great price! It shoots really high at 100 yds but it's a sweet shooter. BTW, another bad-ass video. God Bless.
The 725 is not an inertia block action. It's actually a mechanical reset trigger, using the main springs, which have a coil that's larger in diameter than the rest, which when they come forward upon firing, trip the selector. If you have a dud, the second barrel will fire even if there's no recoil from the first dud round.
Another fine repair. I would never have thought that watching a man work on the wooden parts of guns would be interesting before I started watching Anvil. :) At about 51:42, I realized what that extra hole in the recoil pad you mentioned at 2:22 is for--it's so they can get at the set screw for the slider without taking it off.
If you laid in a 1/8" SS rod that has been knurled into the grooves. That would massively bolster the repair. I have made similar repairs using JB Weld with great success. Great video... Thanks.
Wonderful production sir! I first learned of the " dog bone" method in the Roy Dunlop classic book "Gunsmithing " . I really enjoy watching you perform your art and was thrilled with the way this one turned out. Please keep this content coming.
That was a nice repair... I was so engrossed in watching it that as you were rasping the glass off the end of the stock i actually blew on the screen to try and clear the swarf...!?!???
A biiiiit too heavy with the Sharpie. You are correct that it’s a great finishing tool. I use it to correct tiny mistakes and flaws in my custom guitars. Sometimes if I just want to fill in a small grain mismatch I’ll wear a nitrile glove and wet the index finger tip with Sharpie ink and rub it in. Little bit goes a long way in these repairs.
For scraping a filled area in wood, luthiers use the trick of taking a single-edge razor blade, and masking all of the sharp edge off, except the width of the fill, with a single layer of scotch tape. The tape acts as a micro-shim raising the scraping edge above the layer of the wood, and preventing damage to the surrounding wood area.
Yeah, this guy is all Yarmulke and no Torah. Personally, would have pulled a vacuum at the insert site and injected CA glue or clear epoxy. Boy, can he talk?
We all have differing methods of repairing damage to gun stocks. Now before I say anything I will say that I have been repairing damage to stock for some fifty years though now in retirement. I suppose being a brit will not help in the suggestions I am going to make so here goes. To remove that dent in the heel of the stock I would apply steam to raze the fibbers first you would be surprised how much and quickly they will return to their original position. Your adhesive and method works for you though far to much floating around the repair, I am more in favour of using clear Epoxey Adhesive less to hide on lighter wood stocks. Try this to get the adhesive into the break, use monofilament fishing line or dental floss to pull the adhesive down and through the crack or brake. your method of using Brass bolts is fine though it removes rather a lot of wood because of the depths you have to go to let in that size of Brass support . My method would remove less wood far easer to conceal, in that repair I would use stainless steel staples positioned across the break using to holes and removing just enough wood to let in the staple top. Stainless steel is less liable to move due to heat expansion , and staples have less mass and far stronger than Brass for a given section. As for clamping the use of cork or pencil erasers between the clamp faces and the stock is more desireable, in many cases straight pull clamps can not be used on gun stocks so the use of Bicycle inertube strips can be used with many advantages that include no damage, will mould to curves, apply as much force as you need. Just another way of doing things not a criticism, we all do things different ways though you may like to experiment sometime.
Outstanding, and thanks for taking the time to explain. Most on your side of the pond do not take the time, and just call everyone stupid.
The clamp had almost no force on it, so the rather loose setup worked. The weight of the clamp was resting on the vise. We have lots of inner tube strap, however, didn't want to smear the glue on the existing finish. Hiding this repair was easy, we clamped a plate of aluminum over it! This stock is scheduled to be recut in a solid block of walnut once the fitters get her numbers right to deal with her neck anyway. My assignment here was to get the gun back up well enough to get to that point, only. I think the editing process might have diluted that point, or I failed to stress it. Again, your input is much appreciated. Thanks
P
I agree, also a Brit. I glued 6mm rubber pads to my G-clamps to stop marking the finished wood, not necessarily all on gun butts, but on a couple. I made brass bowties to keep both sides of the crack together. As you said there are many ways to fix finished wood items. Well done 👍
I like the idea of stainless staples. I love watching and hearing about how master craftsman do their work. Cheers
That title couldn't be any better
Nobody works a butt crack like Mark😁
I was literally searching UA-cam, wishing there was a new Anvil video and then this showed up! Thank you for relieving my boredom with brilliantly interesting content 😁 one of my absolute favourites
“Learning how hard to hit it is a judgement call based on how many times you screwed it up, and I will guarantee you I have screwed it up more times you’ve tried to do it..”
This is awesome because you, a master-level gunsmith, are teaching everyone that we should accept screwing up at all times. Thank you for teaching us us how screwing up over the years are pretty much free lessons on the road to become a master.
Amazing. Like watching Michaelangelo painting the ceiling only with acroglass, chisel and polished hammer.
Now that was an outstanding tutorial. Love your work, you are the Gold Standard by which all other Gunsmith channels are compared too. Thank you for all your hard work we as a gun community appreciate it immensely.
What I find shocking is , this channel isn't monetized. This man is a engineer / craftsman of the highest order, historian, metallurgist, an excellent woodworker, refurbisher, and burnisher. Yet youtube can't loosen the purse strings to throw this master teacher a few coins .. This isn't insulting to Mark imo, I don't think he's teaching us for the money tbh. Some men are just born to educate others .
Have you considered he gets paid well enough and decided not too monetise
@@CAMSLAYER13 Have you seen the inflation #'s, the cost of everything ? .. Everyone needs free money in these times .. Take a look at yourself , you've had to become a camwhore to make ends meat .. Everyone's suffering in Joe Bidens america
Not monetized by choice. I do have patreons and utreons. However, yt can jerk off other creators, not me
mark, you are a major reason i decided to take Yavapai College's (Prescott, AZ.) Gunsmith course. (half way through now). Enjoy all your videos, appreciate you sharing your time and knowledge.
Pick up a tool and start screwing up! and polish your hammers nub...........OUTSTANDING
Thomas are they in-person classes or virtual? Thanks
a technique that I was taught, for repairing a crack, it to use a hair dryer to blow the epoxy into the spread crack. The heat of the hair dryer thins the epoxy and the air helps direct the flow into the deepest parts of the crack. Works well for me. Great video, as usual.
I wonder if you could use a syringe-and thumbs of steel-to squirt it in the little crevices?
@@robertl6196got to get it into the syringe.....and therein lies the rub
There is also thin epoxy for lamination. The epoxy sucks right into the crack, no need to open the crack. Repaired a lot of wood this way without problems.
What an absolute pleasure it is to watch and moreover ‘listen’ to your content. You remind me of my high school sweethearts’ father who I learned very quickly would give you the history of the watch, if you asked him what time it was. I didn’t appreciate it at the time, but listening to you, brings back some pretty damn good memories. Thanks.
I like that you keep your chisels ridiculously sharp. The drudgery of maintaining that edge makes the job that much easier and more precise. Thanks, Mark. That sure did not seem like almost an hour. Time flies when you're having fun.
Love to watch you work Mark! I like working on my own guns but there’s a limit to what I’ll do! I did my son in law’s Winchester 74 that had been neglected for years. It was a working gun on a farm and isn’t collector grade by any stretch. But I fixed the action and replaced and fitted a new firing pin. Then some conservation. It works smoothly now and that’s all we wanted to do. Thank you for your wisdom!😊
Your attention to detail is astounding. I know alot of guys that would've just used Elmer's wood glue, throw a clamp on it, and call it even. I love to watch guys that really have the knowledge to do things right. I commend you for that
You are an artist and I love your precise and respectful handling of the work pieces.
I always learn something from Mark and I appreciate his channel.
"Is the lighting alright for you?"
Made me chuckle. Its one thing to have a skill like this, its another to be able to talk, in length, in detail about it. Somehow I can listen to you talk for an hour straight about a subject I have no familiarity with and atill understand enough to stay engaged all the way though.
Really enjoyed this. You turned me on to Acra Glass many videos ago so I hope this will return the favor. I have restored antique cutlery since the 70's and for blending and staining repairs in wood, bone, stag, etc nothing works as well as leather dye. It really penetrates, it dries almost as fast as you can put it on and it does not mess with anything you have to put over it. Tandy Leather has every color known to man but I get by with just 5 colors, once applied within 10 minutes you can go to whatever topcoats you want with no worries oil, poly whatever it may be. Using scrap wood I can custom blend colors to get an almost perfect match no one will know you were there.
I appreciate your tips and tricks. I don’t work on guns but your method of using a polished hammer face to move the material from a blown out brass screw is invaluable. I work on very large electric motors the ability to rework the small screws that hold oil rings together is great. Thanks.
In my past life I was an Industrial Electrician also. I GET the big motor thing....
A small pallet knife from an art supply store has been my epoxy application tool for decades. The blade is a very thin spring steel that gets into most tiny cracks.
It’s always a good day when Marks posts a video
I'm not a gunsmith, but I am a carpenter amongst other things, and I really appreciate your videos here. Engineering, fabrication, restoration and a lot of wisdom.
Also Cigars. :)
I learn things from every video. That does not mean I am ever going to be a gunsmith. That is beyond me. However, I can perhaps learn what right looks like with regard to firearms repair and maintenance. Thanks Mark.
And that is the entire point....
I would have needed to make a pair of shaped cauls for that gluing clamp up, but that's just me. I have never had much luck tightening a clamp pad on a curved surface like the heel and toe of this stock. I truly enjoy watching your methods of work. Your skill level and ingenuity in problem solving are very inspiring to me.
As always a great job and great narrative on why you do what you do. Love watching you work.
I don't know what people get out of ASMR, but whatever it is must be what I get out of these videos because I could watch this content all day. Thanks for making it!
This is a "tufur". Gunstock repair and a nice tutorial on the inner workings. Great video as always! Thanks!!
I won’t lie at 26:25 when you were taking that squeeze out off my arse was puckering and I was cringing
Amazing skills you have !!
Enjoyed the video. Laying those two screws in horizontally was brilliant. My first thought was to lay in an "I" piece of brass. But the threads on your screws is 100% better. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Mark thanks for another great video. What got my attention initially was the thumbnail of the 725 due to it being much newer than many of the other things you've brought to us. I also run a 725 as my primary clays gun so there was that additional interest.
Browning right in the owners manual talks about the oul finish on the gun and goes so far as recommendations for stock maintenance by using a SMALL amount of TruOil or some others sparingly. The oil finish in these cases is TONS nicer comlared to the hard as nails finish they use to put on their stocks.
Ive got arounf 15,000 rounds through mine and the insides look about as clean as the gun you had in the video. Thanks again!
I appreciate your delivery method. A combination of technical knowledge and just enough humor to make it not only helpful but enjoyable. So many in this business are either so dry or arrogant that it is work to watch them even when the advice is good. Your videos are very engaging.
Listening to your running commentary reminds me of a 1930s crime movie. Lots of interesting "turns of phrase" I do not encounter elsewhere. Always a pleasure. Thank you for all that you do.
Absolutely stunning work, Mark.
Almost makes me wish I had a stock to repair, Mark, you could make watching paint dry compelling.
Watching you repair this type of damage is an art. Thank you for a nice presentation.
Glad you enjoyed it
Mark I have used your screw/ epoxy fix on a stock per your example in another video, but it was up where it was inletted for the receiver. I drilled the escape hole to let the air out to make sure the hole was filled with epoxy and that was worth it's weight. I've always had to fight the hydraulic effect and cavitation caused by that. I did like the bowtie suggestion the Brit offered and gluing pieces of innertube to the inside of the clamp jaws sounds like a viable idea too. but that's why I come here to learn and see how other people resolve these intricate problems. I try them and in the end it makes me a better craftsman. Thanks for every bodies help in this journey of life.
The most under rated statement you made is the polished hammer faces, that keeps from marring up the material I learned that years ago blacksmithing the mirrored finish of the hammer will transfer to the material your working with which leads to less finish up work. Great job on the project BTW ;)
The words of true wisdom. At @43:21, learning how hard to hit it is a judgement call depending on how many times you've screwed it up.
Best gunsmith on UA-cam da
The pattern of that wood is beautiful. My Dad has a Browning BAR, the reason he chose it, over a Remington was the amazing burl pattern of the stock wood.
Thats great Mark you did not squeeze all the glue out of the crack. Good carpenter you are.
Livestock supply stores have these syringes that use a curved plastic tube instead of a needle, and one of those would probably apply that AcraGlass into the crack a little cleaner.
Yup. Craft stores too and, of course, Amazon, et al.
I loved the analogy of sausage ... same thing for Worcestershire sauce, if you like it do NOT search and watch how it's made! Watching a Smith working on your own firearm can cause minor fits of the heeby jeebys BUT when a Master does his thing, it is a work of beauty! Excellent video as always Mark, thank you for sharing!
Fermented anchovies and rotting onions is OK by me.... Delicious....
Wow Mr Novak, I have to say you scared the bejeezuz out of me when you wedged open that crack ... your experience, knowlege and cojones showed clear as daylight. Hmm, that's a bit of an odd metaphor, but it does the trick! Another great job.
A children's joke when I was in primary school:
"What would you have if you could have anything in the world?"
A:"A new butt. The old one's got a crack in it."
Excellent video, I am very appreciative of how you explain the functioning of the gun. Subscribed
As always it's a pleasure watching you do your magic, outstanding.
Always a good day when a new anvil episode drops!
The complex geometry of old guns vs new is amazing. Almost all double barrels with ejectors are fancy for a reason.. thanks for walking through the sear engagments. It amazes me they could think of how to do this with mechanical systems/geometry and springs
I wish I could remember the name of the British gunmaker who made the hand-detachable boxlock double rifle. Built for safaris and such, the lock mechanisms could be removed without tools. They were gold plated for corrosion resistance and the rifles came with a spare lock. Ingenious as heck!
@@kennethjackson7574 Sounds like Holland & Holland but I don't know for sure. ChatGPT might have the answer. You got me curious now. Sounds pretty wild. Here's what I got: The British gunmaker famous for creating the hand-detachable boxlock double rifle is John Rigby & Co. John Rigby & Co., founded in 1775, has a long and prestigious history in firearms manufacturing, particularly in crafting high-quality rifles and shotguns.
The hand-detachable boxlock design allows for easy removal of the barrels from the action for maintenance and transportation. This feature was especially appreciated for big game hunting rifles, where reliability and ease of maintenance were crucial in often challenging and remote environments.
John Rigby & Co. has a legacy of producing exquisite and accurate rifles for hunting and sporting purposes. The company has had a significant impact on the development of firearms technology and is associated with the creation of iconic firearms.
Please note that specific models and designs can vary over time, and if you are interested in a particular firearm or design from John Rigby & Co., it's recommended to consult their official website or reach out to authorized dealers for accurate and up-to-date information.
It was nice of you to let us watch while you took care of that lady's butt crack.
Hey man, my butts got a crack too, thanks for the tutorial
Ball-end hex ("Allen" is a trademark of the Holo-Krome Corporation) keys were invented during my lifetime (1964) by John Bondhus of the Bondhus Corporation. Sheer genius! I wish that I had thought of it. I was still in elementary school, but, still...
That explains why that brand of wrenches is so nice
Wow! Great job! I repaired a crack in the forward part of the stock on a German WW2 G43 rifle caused by excess recoil from old, weakened recoil springs. A couple of things that you did here would have helped me blend and even completely hide any trace of the crack. Anyhow, never had a problem with it since.
Thanks for sharing Mark. I used your technique of redisplacing metal by tapping to restore a loose keyway on a lathe shaft, Great!
OUTSTANDING
Update on my restoration of the 1916 French M LE 16 in 8mm Lebel. I finally finished the rifle. Thank you so much for referring me to Graf n Son's. They do have the ammo and at a great price! It shoots really high at 100 yds but it's a sweet shooter. BTW, another bad-ass video. God Bless.
The Man. The Dude. The One. The Only. Thank you.
Excellent vid. Really liked the articulate way you presented this. Camera work was spot on. Thanks.
Always a pleasure watching you work, I've learned something new from all your videos. Outstanding!
Guitar luthiers use tiny suction cups to push glue in a crevace
Oh that's a great idea.
You can also use a pipette to inject or use some compressed air.
Always enjoy seeing Mark do his magic
The 725 is not an inertia block action. It's actually a mechanical reset trigger, using the main springs, which have a coil that's larger in diameter than the rest, which when they come forward upon firing, trip the selector. If you have a dud, the second barrel will fire even if there's no recoil from the first dud round.
You are correct. I will fix this with an update. ua-cam.com/video/NyL5y-_gvQI/v-deo.html their explanation is derivative, mine won't be. Thanks
@@marknovak8255 I love your content, please keep it coming! I'm a newer gunsmith and have a shop. Your knowledge is very valuable
Machinist, Gunsmith, Artist... Great work!
I don't intend to drop my 525, but it's nice to know that Browning builds them well :)
Another fine repair. I would never have thought that watching a man work on the wooden parts of guns would be interesting before I started watching Anvil. :)
At about 51:42, I realized what that extra hole in the recoil pad you mentioned at 2:22 is for--it's so they can get at the set screw for the slider without taking it off.
Great work my friend. Artwork as far as I’m concerned. Cheers.
"Ausgezeichnet" Mark, greate work. I love your perfectly explained work steps. Greetings Form Bavaria, Germany.
Being used to looking at semi/auto assemblies, that action is so cool
If you laid in a 1/8" SS rod that has been knurled into the grooves. That would massively bolster the repair. I have made similar repairs using JB Weld with great success. Great video... Thanks.
Such a fitting title!😊
Wonderful production sir!
I first learned of the " dog bone" method in the Roy Dunlop classic book "Gunsmithing " .
I really enjoy watching you perform your art and was thrilled with the way this one turned out. Please keep this content coming.
As always, excellent repair. You have the patience of Job.
Yes has been a pleasure ;)
Thanks again
I had to watch because it said “Butt Crack”. Sometimes being a man-child pays off because it was really interesting. Liked
Another Master class! Thankyou Mark.
Glad you enjoyed it
Your a true craftsman. I love your work!
Oh no! A gun owned by a plumber? Let’s end the butt cracks! Great show Pete!
Thank you for the excellent content! It's always a good time down the rabbit hole during some downtime and maybe learn a thing or two.
Outstanding work sir 👏
Marvels peace of work of art... I couldn't had done it better myself, regardless other people opinions "to which respect as well".
Wow great to see you again!
Oh my the spreading of that crack scared the bejueswillikers out of me…
Elegant work on an elegant firearm!
Thank you Mark for sharing what you do.. Great video
Wonderful work, Mark!
Epidermix 372 is also a winner for these repairs.
As I'm watching you apply Acraglas, I'm wondering how well unwaxed floss might work in this application.
hell yeah thankyou for your awesome knowlege you share with us thankyou mark
You always post some gold right when i need it.
Thanks mark! Always love your content
Very impressive repair work.
The grand master Gunsmith.
So glad I got to watch another amazing video
Thank you, Mister Novak.
thank you Mark, great video
That was a nice repair... I was so engrossed in watching it that as you were rasping the glass off the end of the stock i actually blew on the screen to try and clear the swarf...!?!???
Same here, with the close up view & Mark guiding through the repair, it feels like being right there !
A biiiiit too heavy with the Sharpie. You are correct that it’s a great finishing tool. I use it to correct tiny mistakes and flaws in my custom guitars. Sometimes if I just want to fill in a small grain mismatch I’ll wear a nitrile glove and wet the index finger tip with Sharpie ink and rub it in. Little bit goes a long way in these repairs.
90 percent of the marker is rubbed out, all good
That piece of wood is off the charts. Just gorgeous!
For scraping a filled area in wood, luthiers use the trick of taking a single-edge razor blade, and masking all of the sharp edge off, except the width of the fill, with a single layer of scotch tape. The tape acts as a micro-shim raising the scraping edge above the layer of the wood, and preventing damage to the surrounding wood area.
Regular isopropyl alcohol removes Sharpie perfectly and isn't as toxic as brake cleaner.
Yeah, this guy is all Yarmulke and no Torah. Personally, would have pulled a vacuum at the insert site and injected CA glue or clear epoxy. Boy, can he talk?
Nice sanitary repair. Watching you file the butt was a little scary tho! Rock on brother,,,Izzy Strong,,,,
Another Excellent Job, Mark ! Very Impressive Talent.
My cousin was competing in youth skeet shooting, and his Turkish weatherby was double firing so they retired it and got him something else.