Thank you very much Bryce, this was helpful. I was deciding between oiling out and applying retouch varnish, so I'm glad for your information. Beautiful painting, by the way.
WONDERFUL explanation and demo!!!!! Loved this video and am going to now to check out the rest of your channel! I'm working on a series of bird paintings with very dark back ground and this is going to be sooooooo helpful to me! subscribed!
Thanks for detailed information about oiling out /oiling in technique. I will be picking up my brushes after almost 2 and a half years due to my husband's medical needs did not allow me to concentrate on painting! :-D
For me it was very informative and inspiring to see how gentle you did everything in practice, because I knew all the explanation but the practice shows how to do it in details its difficult to communicate without actually seeing it in practice -
You have the most easy information absorbing voice, I could almost predict words you was going to say next Very understandable, you speak my language! -Could you oil out a painting AND use retouch varnish? for a painting Also, does ‘oiling out’ have a lasting effect… or does it go back to the same appearance again once it’s dried
So the solvent part of the “oiling out” won’t ruin the fat over lean rule? It won’t cause cracking? I’m very new. Very very new. And I so far have not used gamsol past the 2nd layer in any form. Not mixed with oil. Not mixed with alkyd. I use gamsol for the first 2 layers. Then the middle layers I’ve used galkyd. And then the top layers I’ve added pure linseed oil into my paints.
Tysvm for sharing this very usefull lesson I wonder however: what about the fat over lean rule... do i need to think about that in mixing the medium 1:3 or 1:4 or different ... I hope i ask my question in the right words.... and also i wonder is gamsol a terpentijn or a terpentine.... i was told that in the long run terpentine eats the paint.... so to be used only for cleaning brushes...
thank you, great explanation. I would like to ask a question. i understand now that for further continuing of painting I should oil it out. but what if the painting is already finished and I would like it to stay the way it is? perhaps sell it? what can I do then to keep it from changing values? oiling out only lasts til the paint dries again, or?? should I apply some kind of varnish in that case? under the varnish it will stay safe and not change? thank you so much !!!!!
Most simple here is to apply retouching varnish. You can also oiling out but it will be longer to dry than the retouching varnish and I'm not sure every dull area will disapear once it be dry again.
Once the painting will be perfectly dry, like 12 month after, you ll can apply a permanent varnish over the retouching varnish. That's the purpose of a retouching varnish, protecting the painting and letting it dry until you can apply a real varnish over.
Stand oil is viscous as compared to the normal linseed oil. If we were to use linseed oil in our painting, do we need to dilute it with the solvent? Some of the artists apply a fine layer of linseed oil directly without mixing any solvent. What do you say, what we do ideally?
WHAT A GREAT EXPLANATION! Do you mean when you say it feels wet... that it just looks wet, but is dry? How long does this mixture take to dry before applying a final varnish coat? Thanks again.
So, adding Gamsol won’t affect fat over lean at all? I work with water mixable oils and am looking to oil put my latest portrait but am nervous lol! I’m guess for me 1 part stand oil to 4 parts Artisan Thinner would be the recipe? I was just hung to utilize linseed oil. Any thoughts on these 2 issues? Thanks if so
I applied a thin coat of Gamvar satin varnish over a year ago to the finished painting, can I do this process on top of that or do I need to remove the varnish layer first? The painting has lost so much depth it used to have originally, it's flat and dull and lost it's vibrancy. Thanks in advance Bryce, love the vid and I love that painting, it's so beautiful :)
The satin varnish can dull more than I usually like, so if its not just that, I would definitely take the varnish off first. It comes of really easily with Gamsol. Then try oiling it out.
Help please! I've just oiled out a big painting..like a week ago..just using neat Linseed oil....and I must have used far too much.....and it's got drips and runs..and awful patches...can i go back with solvent and fix this up?
Very useful info - thank You! May i ask you what medium did you use to retain those brushstroke marks on some parts of the painting or is just the harsh underpainting brush strokes with more paint that is hitting through the upper layer? Nice painting, you do not blend too much, just lay down the paint right?
You explained this better than anyone else ty! How soon can I do this? Idid a painting for my son and want to mail it you him , so can I do this as soon as it's dry to the touch?
Debbie Ventimiglia thank you. Yes. Also, if it’s finished you could final varnish it. Use Gamvar from Gamblin because it can be applied after your painting is dry to the touch. Gamblin’s varnish will allow the paint layers to continue to dry underneath. If there are severely sunken in areas prior to varnishing I still oil out lightly (make sure you don’t leave too much oil, keep it lean), let that dry then final varnish. Follow Gamvar instructions. 🙏
Would this be safe to use on an old oil painting where the paint has chipped and areas of paint have actually lifted away from the canvas, just almost laying on top?
Do you have to use Stand oil? or can you use plain old linseed oil? How long should you wait for the painting to be completely dry before you can oil out? I'm just trying to paint the painting more vibrant without glossing it because I do not have enough time to wait! thanks!
Sorry for the long delay. Linseed oil is just fine, the ratios might be slightly different since stand oil is so much thicker but its basically the same oil just a different process to make it. I wait till its dry to the touch.
@@bcliston Winsor & Newton's " Painting Medium" can be used, sparingly, for oiling out ( besides the usual use for blending or glazing, etc). At least, that's stated on the label of that medium. I have used it as it is , in small quantities, without adding any solvent. It's a slow drying medium, so it takes some time to completely dry. It's convenient, because it is ready to use and it gives similar results as the mixture of Standoil with the solvent. Have you ever tried it?
... great video - thanks. Two questions: once applied like this will it all dry out again and reveal the under-bound or sunken areas? And how long after oiling out like this would you wait before varnishing? ... thanks again ...
Good question. It can definitely come back to matte. It does seem like certain colors really never completely oil out. But they do seem to improve. You can try hitting those areas again with more oil but as long as you've given it some (oil) binder it should be okay. I let it dry to the touch. maybe a day or two depending on the temperatures. I use Gamvar and its said that it allows the pigments to dry underneath, so it should allow the oil to continue drying. I've not had any issues so far.
I would say for that layer I would stick with the retouch varnish they accomplish a similar task. If the retouch varnish left sunken in areas you could try oil those out, if it beads up just gently wipe it off.
Hi Bryce, I got a problem with oiling out. Once I put lineseed oil, some parts turn glossy and some seems don't take oil and stay matte. I use only lineseed oil. I don't have this issue with liquin. What do you think it could be the problem?
I've experienced that too. I usually hit the matte areas again and leave the linseed oil a bit longer. There might be multiple reasons why it;s staying so flat. It could be the type of pigment or something in the paint. Liquin works better possible because of it's thick viscosity. It does darken with age but if you paint over it that shouldn't be a problem.
I know this is late but hopefully still helpful. The reason this happens during oiling out is because the painting is cured and slick. You can still get oil into those difficult areas but gentle scrubbing it in with a stiffer brush..or a lint free cloth. It just takes a bit more work. The color and type of oil has a lot to do with sinking in. Diluting the oil with solvent also helps get it in the the crevices but just make sure you also wipe it down at the end to remove excess oil/solvent
Gamsol is a slower drying solvent, but in thin painting applications such and oiling out I can't see it taking that long to dry and I've never experienced any mold issues.
Hello, thank you very much for the video. Recently I had my first scare with sunken areas in my painting, now I'm not scared so much Well, I would like to know what is the problem of oiling only with linseed oil. I use an indirect technique taught by alexey antonov, before each session he only applies oil to the canvas with his hands and then wipes off the excess with a cloth. I would like to know your opinion on this. Thank you :)
You only oil out the area you will be painting. Otherwise too much oil will crack the paint. Painting in layers means adding more fat in each layer but if you do it before it will hurt at the end.
I didnt understand one thing, you have to let it dry that oil out medium you put? And then paint when its dry? Or paint when is still wet? Or can be both? What do you recomend? Great video btw!!
@@veronicavolborth if I would use linseed oil I would do a ratio of 1 part linseed oil / 1 part solvent. It's a well known medium which will work for sure but you can still try other oil/sovent ratios.
That is very true however, youll adhere to the fat over lean rule when you apply more paint (and oil, fat) on top of the dried layer. This is done to see the values of your dry layer correctly so you can continue painting. It would break the fat over lean rule if you used this as a varnish of sorts. But using this technique to continue a painting is completely safe. Hope this helps. Happy painting!
I love matte paintings as seen in Vuillard’s paintings. Thing is- he uses heated rabbit skin glue mixed with color in powdered dry pigments. I’d like tips to get Vuillard’s effect in oil paint. Their used to be on the market, but no longer made, casein binder to add to oil paint. I thought it was an acceptable path to get close to Vuillard’s matte surface.
Thank you. This is the best video that explains this.
The painting was simply captivating.
Very clear and helpful. Thanks!!
Thank you very much Bryce, this was helpful. I was deciding between oiling out and applying retouch varnish, so I'm glad for your information. Beautiful painting, by the way.
Mesmerising painting. Very helpful video.
Finish the painting!
It's quite nice.
Beautifull painting !!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for this! Been searching for exactly this detailed explanation so I can rework some old paintings. This was exactly the info I needed!
This painting is worth salvaging. I do hope you finish it!
WONDERFUL explanation and demo!!!!! Loved this video and am going to now to check out the rest of your channel! I'm working on a series of bird paintings with very dark back ground and this is going to be sooooooo helpful to me! subscribed!
What a fabulous painting !!!! Thanks for your demo.
Thank you so much this was just what I was looking for and you explained it so well!
Thanks for detailed information about oiling out /oiling in technique. I will be picking up my brushes after almost 2 and a half years due to my husband's medical needs did not allow me to concentrate on painting! :-D
For me it was very informative and inspiring to see how gentle you did everything in practice, because I knew all the explanation but the practice shows how to do it in details its difficult to communicate without actually seeing it in practice -
Wonderful! also can you oil out before varnishing or does the varnish "take care" of the value and texture problem?
Great content! Love the painting
Thank you!
Thanks for this! Mixing linseed oil (instead of the thickened stand oil )and gamsol should work too I suppose.
Stand oil is the better choice. It dries better
Thanks for the demo. Great and beautiful painting. I noticed you haven’t posted any more videos. I hope you find the time to do more. Take care.
Thank you, I will
You have the most easy information absorbing voice, I could almost predict words you was going to say next
Very understandable,
you speak my language!
-Could you oil out a painting
AND use retouch varnish?
for a painting
Also, does ‘oiling out’ have a lasting effect… or does it go back to the same appearance again once it’s dried
Great tip thank you for that 🙂
Thank you for this video! Huge help!
So the solvent part of the “oiling out” won’t ruin the fat over lean rule? It won’t cause cracking? I’m very new. Very very new. And I so far have not used gamsol past the 2nd layer in any form. Not mixed with oil. Not mixed with alkyd. I use gamsol for the first 2 layers. Then the middle layers I’ve used galkyd. And then the top layers I’ve added pure linseed oil into my paints.
Helpful. But why you didnt finish it? Good piece of art.
Thank you!!!
Tysvm for sharing this very usefull lesson
I wonder however: what about the fat over lean rule... do i need to think about that in mixing the medium 1:3 or 1:4 or different ...
I hope i ask my question in the right words.... and also i wonder is gamsol a terpentijn or a terpentine.... i was told that in the long run terpentine eats the paint.... so to be used only for cleaning brushes...
thank you, great explanation. I would like to ask a question. i understand now that for further continuing of painting I should oil it out. but what if the painting is already finished and I would like it to stay the way it is? perhaps sell it? what can I do then to keep it from changing values? oiling out only lasts til the paint dries again, or?? should I apply some kind of varnish in that case? under the varnish it will stay safe and not change? thank you so much !!!!!
Most simple here is to apply retouching varnish. You can also oiling out but it will be longer to dry than the retouching varnish and I'm not sure every dull area will disapear once it be dry again.
Once the painting will be perfectly dry, like 12 month after, you ll can apply a permanent varnish over the retouching varnish. That's the purpose of a retouching varnish, protecting the painting and letting it dry until you can apply a real varnish over.
Stand oil is viscous as compared to the normal linseed oil. If we were to use linseed oil in our painting, do we need to dilute it with the solvent? Some of the artists apply a fine layer of linseed oil directly without mixing any solvent. What do you say, what we do ideally?
WHAT A GREAT EXPLANATION! Do you mean when you say it feels wet... that it just looks wet, but is dry? How long does this mixture take to dry before applying a final varnish coat? Thanks again.
So, adding Gamsol won’t affect fat over lean at all?
I work with water mixable oils and am looking to oil put my latest portrait but am nervous lol!
I’m guess for me 1 part stand oil to 4 parts Artisan Thinner would be the recipe?
I was just hung to utilize linseed oil. Any thoughts on these 2 issues?
Thanks if so
Would you recommend 50/50 Linseed to Gamsol? Would you clean the surface first with alcohol?
I applied a thin coat of Gamvar satin varnish over a year ago to the finished painting, can I do this process on top of that or do I need to remove the varnish layer first? The painting has lost so much depth it used to have originally, it's flat and dull and lost it's vibrancy. Thanks in advance Bryce, love the vid and I love that painting, it's so beautiful :)
The satin varnish can dull more than I usually like, so if its not just that, I would definitely take the varnish off first. It comes of really easily with Gamsol. Then try oiling it out.
@@bcliston Awesome - ty!
Thank you, Bryce! How long would you suggest waiting after oiling out before using Gamvar picture varnish?
Looks finished to me
Help please! I've just oiled out a big painting..like a week ago..just using neat Linseed oil....and I must have used far too much.....and it's got drips and runs..and awful patches...can i go back with solvent and fix this up?
Very useful info - thank You! May i ask you what medium did you use to retain those brushstroke marks on some parts of the painting or is just the harsh underpainting brush strokes with more paint that is hitting through the upper layer? Nice painting, you do not blend too much, just lay down the paint right?
Do I oil out and then varnish so it’s varnishes evenly?
What about a 50/50 Gamsol and fast dry alkyd?
Hello, Great video, can you oil out an entire painting a month or so after doing oiling it out the first time.
If it has sunken back in, yes that should be fine. But try to keep it thin, especially in the areas that retained more oil from the previous time.
You explained this better than anyone else ty! How soon can I do this? Idid a painting for my son and want to mail it you him , so can I do this as soon as it's dry to the touch?
Debbie Ventimiglia thank you. Yes. Also, if it’s finished you could final varnish it. Use Gamvar from Gamblin because it can be applied after your painting is dry to the touch. Gamblin’s varnish will allow the paint layers to continue to dry underneath. If there are severely sunken in areas prior to varnishing I still oil out lightly (make sure you don’t leave too much oil, keep it lean), let that dry then final varnish. Follow Gamvar instructions. 🙏
Would this be safe to use on an old oil painting where the paint has chipped and areas of paint have actually lifted away from the canvas, just almost laying on top?
Hello i use m grahams oil paints can i mix the gamsol with walnut oil to oil out thanks.
Yes, absolutely, walnut oil is a very fatty oil so just make sure your mixture is thin enough. ie contains enough gamsol.
Do you have to use Stand oil? or can you use plain old linseed oil? How long should you wait for the painting to be completely dry before you can oil out? I'm just trying to paint the painting more vibrant without glossing it because I do not have enough time to wait! thanks!
Sorry for the long delay. Linseed oil is just fine, the ratios might be slightly different since stand oil is so much thicker but its basically the same oil just a different process to make it. I wait till its dry to the touch.
@@bcliston Winsor & Newton's " Painting Medium" can be used, sparingly, for oiling out ( besides the usual use for blending or glazing, etc). At least, that's stated on the label of that medium. I have used it as it is , in small quantities, without adding any solvent. It's a slow drying medium, so it takes some time to completely dry. It's convenient, because it is ready to use and it gives similar results as the mixture of Standoil with the solvent. Have you ever tried it?
... great video - thanks. Two questions: once applied like this will it all dry out again and reveal the under-bound or sunken areas? And how long after oiling out like this would you wait before varnishing? ... thanks again ...
Good question. It can definitely come back to matte. It does seem like certain colors really never completely oil out. But they do seem to improve. You can try hitting those areas again with more oil but as long as you've given it some (oil) binder it should be okay. I let it dry to the touch. maybe a day or two depending on the temperatures. I use Gamvar and its said that it allows the pigments to dry underneath, so it should allow the oil to continue drying. I've not had any issues so far.
@@bcliston many thanks Bryce ... great stuff!
What if I already used retouch varnish, can I do this over that, or do I need to remove the varnish?
I would say for that layer I would stick with the retouch varnish they accomplish a similar task. If the retouch varnish left sunken in areas you could try oil those out, if it beads up just gently wipe it off.
Hi Bryce, I got a problem with oiling out. Once I put lineseed oil, some parts turn glossy and some seems don't take oil and stay matte. I use only lineseed oil. I don't have this issue with liquin. What do you think it could be the problem?
I've experienced that too. I usually hit the matte areas again and leave the linseed oil a bit longer. There might be multiple reasons why it;s staying so flat. It could be the type of pigment or something in the paint. Liquin works better possible because of it's thick viscosity. It does darken with age but if you paint over it that shouldn't be a problem.
May be you should have a bit of solvent with the linseed oil, it may help the oil to penetrate the dull parts of the last layer?
I know this is late but hopefully still helpful. The reason this happens during oiling out is because the painting is cured and slick. You can still get oil into those difficult areas but gentle scrubbing it in with a stiffer brush..or a lint free cloth. It just takes a bit more work. The color and type of oil has a lot to do with sinking in. Diluting the oil with solvent also helps get it in the the crevices but just make sure you also wipe it down at the end to remove excess oil/solvent
I looked for information about gamsol and it says (and shows the picture) that gamsol takes months to dry and grows mold. What do you know about it?
Gamsol is a slower drying solvent, but in thin painting applications such and oiling out I can't see it taking that long to dry and I've never experienced any mold issues.
I have (possibly a very silly) question:
Why don’t you want to have a fat layer ? What are the problems with that?
Hello, thank you very much for the video.
Recently I had my first scare with sunken areas in my painting, now I'm not scared so much
Well, I would like to know what is the problem of oiling only with linseed oil.
I use an indirect technique taught by alexey antonov, before each session he only applies oil to the canvas with his hands and then wipes off the excess with a cloth. I would like to know your opinion on this.
Thank you :)
You only oil out the area you will be painting. Otherwise too much oil will crack the paint. Painting in layers means adding more fat in each layer but if you do it before it will hurt at the end.
I didnt understand one thing, you have to let it dry that oil out medium you put? And then paint when its dry? Or paint when is still wet? Or can be both? What do you recomend? Great video btw!!
paint immediately when its wet
thank you for explaining this process! just a question: when you say '4 parts gamsol to 1 part stand oil,' does that mean by weight or by volume?
Volume. The density of stand oil would equate to far too much solvent if measured by weight.
And can linseed and stand oil be used interchangeably? 1 part linseed to 4 parts gamsol?
@@veronicavolborth if I would use linseed oil I would do a ratio of 1 part linseed oil / 1 part solvent. It's a well known medium which will work for sure but you can still try other oil/sovent ratios.
Do I have to use stand oil or can i use ordinary linseed oil?
dangervich linseed oil is good.
hi, when you choose 1:3 ratio, what if the layer is fatter in oil than this ratio, won’t this break fat over lean rule?
That is very true however, youll adhere to the fat over lean rule when you apply more paint (and oil, fat) on top of the dried layer. This is done to see the values of your dry layer correctly so you can continue painting. It would break the fat over lean rule if you used this as a varnish of sorts. But using this technique to continue a painting is completely safe. Hope this helps. Happy painting!
Such a nice painting. Why would you not want to finish it? Just call it finished now.
Its Fine. 👍
The reason your colors are sunk in id you are using too much thinner
I love matte paintings as seen in Vuillard’s paintings. Thing is- he uses heated rabbit skin glue mixed with color in powdered dry pigments.
I’d like tips to get Vuillard’s effect in oil paint. Their used to be on the market, but no longer made, casein binder to add to oil paint. I thought it was an acceptable path to get close to Vuillard’s matte surface.
why do we callthis oiling out?why not oiling in? xD
the method is also called oiling too. See on Gamblin instructional video on their channel.
Thank you. Come to Islam.
Unfortunately, artists are completely incapable of explaining. Too long and incoherently.
Nothing special .You , just talk to much...
:)