Trying to FIX: 3 x Faulty Nintendo Game Boy Games
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- Опубліковано 30 лис 2019
- Hi, this 'trying to fix' video shows me attempting to repair 3 faulty Nintendo Gameboy cartridges which have already had repairs attempted on them.
Sorry there is no quick version of this video.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince. - Навчання та стиль
This video had more twists and turns than an episode of CSI.
You never give up, you earned a 👍.
Cheers Paul :-)
Every time I see a new video from Vince I check the length. When its above an hour I know I'm in for a good show.
Nice one Kenneth :-)
"This game features water Pokemon so I'm going to test it in this fast moving river"
1:22:06 however, this is Silver version in the gold version shell!!
Plata is silver in spanish, so you are correct! This confused me however. He literally swapped everything from the gold cart, onto the silver board. The original person trying to fix this must have already did some chip swapping. This is really the only explanation, unless I'm missing something?
@@Bobbywolf64 the note from the guy who sent them mentions that he swapped the ROM chips between them
I noticed that too. It is indeed the Silver Edition.
Really splashing out Vince - a whole sheet of paper to scribble on rather than a torn piece of envelope - definately living your best life 👍👍
You've really come a long way in the past year Vince. You're doing stuff now that you didnt do during your "switch killer" vids. Keep it up. :)
1:01:13 Vince: “It’s not even showing the gameboy logo anymore...”
Me: “That game cartridge has gotten so bad it made the gameboy forget it’s own name.”
😂
Lol 😂
Good one😂
😄👍👍
Awesome work, sir! I love the long videos. I love that you'll chase the fault until you're fed up with it or it's fixed. I (and I'm sure many other viewers) get to learn quite a lot from your processes that would be lost in the shorter formats.
A12 an address line. Tie this to ground through a 560~ish ohm resistor if the resistance is too low(internal pulldown is most likely shot)
Having an address line floating will render the game unbootable since it won't start executing from the correct place.
WE = Write Enable; normally CPU controlled. If the WE pin has a trace going to the cart connector then this is almost certainly CPU controlled, otherwise it can be tied to it's inactive state meaning the data is only read and never written to the chip and read operations are done through the OE pin or another WE pin somewhere on the chip.
OE = Output Enable; normally CPU controlled. If the OE pin has a trace going to the cart connector then this is definitely CPU controlled, otherwise it can be tied to it's inactive state because it's most likely not being used to signal a read operation and some other WE pin is being used to clock the IC.
CE = Chip Enable; tied high or to ground depending on it's normally activate state(active low denoted by a bar above the CE letters in the datasheet)
Love watching these repair jobs, I really enjoy them. The longer the better, keep them on while I’m working on my own things, or doing college stuff.
I really enjoyed this video, Vince. You are entertaining and very relaxing to listen to. You have the patience of a saint, I don't know how you do it. I also really enjoyed the music you chose for this video, great stuff. Thank you for the effort of making and sharing these videos with us.
Sweet, I was waiting for a Nintendo retro repair video. Thanks Vince! :)
Loved the video. Pleasing to watch someone fix a broken item and show every step on that process.
Great video vince, very interesting faults. The faulty Mitsumi 1134A chip is a (sram power down chip) and is used to disconnect the sram from VDD when the system is powered off (as it has a battery as well), mainly to prevent false data writes etc. Enjoyed the fixes though, have done many gameboy games in the past and its always nice to see them working again! :)
inserting and removing gb cartridges puts a lot of flex into the pcb that creates cracked solder, ive had loads of gb games fixed by applying no clean flux and running some hot air over the pads to get everything reflowed and connected. finding games with such unique faults and actually getting results is very impressive.
Honestly, you don't need to apologize for the length of the video, especially when it's chock full of content. I start watching and before I know it, an hour's gone. Keep up the good work!
When you finally find the solution but you realize there is still an hour left in the video so you grab popcorn and drinks. Great stuff.
your persistence is amazing
Nice, jump on UA-cam and see an 80 minute video from Vince. What a great end to my evening!
Best video yet my good man. Please make more cartridge fixing videos 👍
I know this video is 3 years old, but when you ended up getting gold version to work, it was actually running silver version. It had the lugia under the sea in the intro sequence instead of ho-oh in the sky. So funny how that worked out.
Either way thanks so much for these videos. I just started learning how to solder and ended up being able to diagnose and fix my old gameboy advance sp thanks to your work. So thank you!
I know this post is old but when did he get it working
Awesome video man, I learned alot as im aiming to fix a few myself. Even without finding the final solution, this video was worth it and enjoyable. Looking forward to more
Vince, every time I watch you, I'm reminded of the movie "Galaxy Quest" and their saying "Never Give Up, Never Surrender ! " Keep it up !
As usual Vince another great video. Keep up the great work mate and greetings from Scotland Glasgow 👍👍
Great video Vince, it's great that you managed to get 2 of the games working. It's a shame that the last one had lots of faults and cant be fixed. 2 out of 3 is a great ratio though. Xx
Hey Vince, I have a box full of old broken Pokémon games if you are interested please let me know, I would like to see some one fix them I would just need postage
Not sure where you're located but I'm in AUS if vince doesn't want them I'd be happy to pay shipping to have a go at fixing some of them
I would like to buy a few as well, as i want to learn to fix these. If youre interested in selling some itd be awesome. my email is jashinber@gmail.com
@@Emiougus sorry mate, I can't post to Australia it would cost to much.
@@Jashin2k hi there mate, do you live in the UK?
Key2theUniverse no I live in Malaysia, but you can do one of throes cheap shipping that takes a month. I don’t mind waiting
When you start to see multiple shorted chips in one board, that's a classic over-voltage/reverse voltage or other similar damage symptom, especially when they're sharing the same voltage supply. Once you found two shorted chips I suspected all the chips. Half the chips don't fail on a board for no good reason. One maybe, two out of four, no. Didn't surprise me they were all dead at all - glad to see you didn't give up!
Thanks for the new video! Always feel more confident to also try my best to fix everything instead of replacing it instantly. (Though I also often feel bad for having thrown away so many things in my life i could at least have tried to repair)
Btw. Gamers Nexus just uploaded a video where they compared thermal paste application on CPUs. Their conclusion was: If your paste is not conductive, it does not matter much if you use too much or what application style you use. (except for maybe making a mess and wasting paste, but from cooling point of view it made almost no difference)
Most retail gameboy cartridges, seemingly those with battery-backed RAM saves, have four test pads on the rear side of the PCB, labelled TP1, TP2, TP3 and TP4.
Connections:
TP1: RAM supply voltage/VCC
TP2: Battery voltage (after 1kOhm resistor R1)
TP3: Battery voltage direct
TP4: Ground/negative for the whole board
Useful tests:
Battery voltage: Voltage between TP3 and TP4. Could be more convenient than measuring across the battery terminals. Low voltage here indicates a dead battery or short circuit on input side of R1 (i.e. close to the battery).
Battery drain current: Voltage between TP2 and TP3. The reading in volts equals the current in milliamps, or the reading in millivolts equals the current in microamps. Large voltage (near battery voltage) here indicates a short circuit on output side of R1 (i.e. not necessarily close to the battery, probably around U4) or faulty R1.
RAM supply voltage: Voltage between TP1 and TP4. Zero/low voltage here with a good battery indicates a broken trace, or faulty U4 (may be caused by short circuit near U3 or U4)
Components:
All these components have the same numbers on all official boards as far as I can tell.
R1: 1k ohm resistor between the battery and U4. Acts as current sense (for manual testing) and short circuit protection. Tiny black rectangle or large brownish blob mounted in a hole, near battery or U4.
U3: Save RAM chip. Part number varies between games. Large chip usually near the bottom-left of the board.
U4: Power management chip. Also known as MM1134 or 134A. A small 8-pin chip usually near the middle-top of the board.
Can you tell me what the name of the part under the white piece of tape is called? Please help! He swapped it out at one point.
Think I'm getting addicted to your videos got an electronics diploma in my teens and your videos are making me want to go out and buy all the kit again.
Wondering how much stuff I've junked over the years that might have had an easy fix etc.
Yes! I love the cartrige videos! Please keep them up.
With a lot of patience and great soldering skills you managed 2 out of 3, great job my friend.
Love the videos Vince. Hope you're well.
Honestly thank you for explaining what the numbers on a battery mean
I work for an alarm company and a lot of the sensors use CR2032 but a couple use CR2025
Now I can tell customers why the battery for the door won't work in the keyfob
You can get a "sizer" chart for cell batteries which has many letterbox openings that you just push the cell through and can reference its size from that.
Looks like the voltage regulator (working one) is an old TPS6735 by Texas instruments. Datasheet I found is dated 1997. Could have gotten a new revision or 2 since then lol. Guess the VCC to GND short was caused either by the regulator dying, which fried the memory chip or vice versa. Always interesting to see your videos, even though I'm working in the electronics business. I'm nowhere close to 20+ year old games though, so it's fun to watch repairs on all that. Keep it up!
Best freaking video ever! I absolutely loved watching this so much! Thank you for posting.
New subscriber here, I just wanted to say your videos are very entertaining and I'm just binge watching them.
Thank you. You inspired me to fix two old games I tried fixing before. Pokemon blue does have a corrupt file and doesn’t show sprites but I’m glad it turns on
this video for me was a great educational learning piece, thanks vince
“Killer”Ohms is better anywayzs.
I love how you dont give up!
umm pokemon fan here. Vince, thats not gold my friend. that was silver @1:22:04. Gold and Silver have 2 different intros. I totally agree what I saw was the silver ROM grounded out, however I can 100% say that Lugia under the water swimming is silver.
Also the comment about could be fake cartridge; European and USA cartridges are different and could have different stickers, so I would check to make sure. thanks Vince! loved the videos as always! plz bump so he sees this!
Definitely genuine carts, if you ever see a fake, the chips inside are awful, wheneer I get those in bundles, even if they work, they go stright in the trash, I'll not help contribute to fake carts going out to collectors :)
@@1up_Gaming well recently I was bamboozled by uncert carts for my DS. so once I get the genuine replacements mine are gonna be MARKED as fakers, but I wanted to bring up awareness b/c I saw a comment or 3 about them being fakes. tnks 1up!
@@superspedboy0076 Same with DS carts, also bin bound, I found the best way to tesy DS carts is in a 3DS on the latest firmware, Nintendo do a bang up job of stopping them from working on the new system, I get really annoyed when fakes show up pretending to be legit carts, it ruins collections for sure, hope your legit ones arrive soon :)
@@1up_Gaming tnks 1up! GameStop was having a buy one get one free, granted I really don't like them, but that's $30 per cart. That's $20 bucks cheaper then what I've seen online anywhere else. Lol
Excellent video Vince.. long, but entertaining. Cheers!
20:07 Setting the iron to 400 degrees is way hot. You're going to wear out your tip very quickly. It also increases the risk of damaging components and PCB. With small parts like that, it's better to start out at 350 degrees or even lower, and adjust if necessary. The quality of the solder joints might even be better because you're not burning off the flux as fast.
Love your videos, my cat hates them because of the beeping lol.
My cats like watching Mr V's hands darting about the place, sometimes I have up to four watching, one on back of chair, one on shoulder, one in arms like a baby and one on lap all watching lol
My son thinks I watch videos with a lot of beeped out swearing. Nope! Just a multi-meter set on continuity.
Same, my cat always runs away when the beeping starts.
i think sean butchered the silver one
i was sure that it's going to work in 44 minute of video. I must say that you are very patient Vince.
Hello Vince, I think the reason why the cartridge got damaged is due to an adapter having high amount of AC ripple. Even after the rectification, some AC adapters carry an appreciable amount of noise/ripple which can damage electronics the way static electricity does.
The other cartridge with an apparently good flash memory might be just faulty which has bad memory blocks.
I don't know if anyone here noticed it but you fixed the Silver version and not the Gold one because the main menu you see very shortly at 1:22:05 shows the Silver menu not the Gold.
I'm thinking the previous owner swapped the chips around judging by what he wrote to Vince, either that or the boards were put in the wrong shells
For some reason, the footage with the relaxing music over the top reminds me of "Take Heart". 😂
Great job =D What's probably happened is an overvoltage from a failed GameBoy - it fried all the chips on that one cart. It's rare, but it does happen! It happens on the Atari Lynx too. CE = chip enable. On a ROM chip the CE pin is usually active low, meaning if its pulled low the ROM can be read, when high it cannot be read. A 'pins' are address bus lines. D 'pins' are data bus lines.
Your knowledge is seriously impressive Chris. Thanks for taking the time to share it with me and everyone reading your comments. You're a good man :-)
@@Mymatevince Thanks Vince! =D You are going from strength to strength with your videos I think! At the start of this video I thought "I bet it ends up with 3 dead mask ROMs" - I was wrong!!!
Dude this video was such a help for fixing my own Pokémon Silver. Thank you so much.
It says "RAM" right next to that chip on the first game.
Bro great video they ups and downs were better than the results don't stop doing these
Vince, don't sweat your accent. People can get over it. You do great work, thanks!!
As Kryten said in Red Dwarf "Ah! Smug mode". Pat yourself on the back for that one Vince, nice work! 😀
in electronics we tend to pronounce it KIL-OHMS and MEG-OHMS without the A. As for the silver game, I expect you can probably get the chips but you would need some way to program the ROM and the file to put in it. in any case the contacts are knackered. great result though :). enjoyed watching that. and you're becoming an expert on removing and reinstalling these SMD packages
Thoroughly entertaining! Good job, thought you were going to bail out :)
Anyone else notice he didn't try the very first troubleshooting step! Didn't blow on the cartridge 🤔😉great video Vince!
Great fun! Carts can be a real pain in the arse. Good job fella ☺️
Great fix video Vince. :)
You should read the data sheets because they give you the maximum voltage tolerance for the chip.
When you use the continuity tester you put a voltage across the chip, if the voltage the tester supplies exceeds the maximum voltage the chip can handle, you will destroy the chip.
Luckily, the first chip you removed is 5v tolerant, so you didn't necessarily hurt it.
Also, the datasheet will tell you the maximum soldering temperature the chip is tolerant of as well.
If you can avoid it, do not use the hot air for removal of single chip capacitors or resistors. Use your soldering iron for those, it is less damaging than the hot air.
Great video, just wondering if you tested the batteries and made sure the games still saved?
Flipping heck, that was a tough video to watch, glad you got some closure in the end! And now a rant, I can't believe people are still criticizing the way you say things, I know you have spoken about this before and all I will say is carry on as you are mate, I understand what you are saying!
best channel ive seen in a long time
Pokémon gold is actually Pokémon silver Vince!!
I noticed this too. He’s got Silver running from the Gold case.
If we look at the letter from 1up guy, he mentions near the silver cartridge "tried swapping the ROM between them". There's a chance he left the Silver ROM in the Gold PCB.
Thought I was watching Louis Rossman the way you were flinging around smd components! Well done.
I love your videos vince!
I love the crossing over of retro repair channels
If I were to guess CE is "chip enable".
Thanks for the Video, and it was not boring at all. Great work :) So all Chips on the Silver was not okay.. :)
Good morning Vince, and an amazing interesting video still although there was no working games almost but that's the beauty of your work , pure real results no matter what they are positive or negative... Win or loss ... As for the pcb cartriges with the chips rams roms ics resistors capacitors , man , they are pain in the ass sometimes , and damn , you've got 3 of them shorted , well I guess it was the rom the main chip , i first thought it was the power regulator chip , the smallest one you know, that it fried them , but yeah it was the rom main storage unit chip
Great video as always ❤️👍
To clean the contacts, use a pencil eraser, works like a dream!
That's what I always used for my train set
Great vid, please do more of these
Great job,with extreme diligence....I gave you a big thumbs up for that alone. But now my eyes are bleeding...
That Pokémon Gold has either been reshelled or is a fake cartridge. The sticker is completely wrong 🤔
Edit: lmao it was a reshelled Silver Version
You have come a really long way from your first videos, great job, keep it up!
Also, a tip from NorthridgeFix (/channel/UCLaXgfNlVxY149shiA1pykQ): If you add some solder with very low melting point to stuff like at 12:35, it will help a lot with desoldering using the hot air gun, preventing the board from even feeling (absorbing) the heat in the first place. This is because the low-temp solder mixing with the normal one brings down the melting temperature of the mix, making it easier to desolder. It's a good thing to know, i'll definitly try it out too, but on larger things, like the huge legs that hold HDMI or USB ports to the board
Hi Vince, If you look on the first board with the short, it says "U3 RAM" (Random Access Memory) That typically means its interchangeable as its not programmed memory like ROM, PROM, mask ROM. The part numbers are the same also LH52256 that would cross reference to CMOS 256K (32K x 8) Static RAM access time 100nS.
CE is chip enable, it has to be in a logic condition to let the chip do its job, often active low but the pin out detail would specify either login 1 positive or logic 0 or ground.
"A" lines are often Address lines to address the memory locations in the chip in binary format, think of them like pigeonholes each with a unique number or address.
"D" lines are often Data lines that are used to read or write the data in or out of those pigeonholes in binary format.
Hey Vince, do you still have that megaphone you fixed last year? That was my favourite video for a while there I remember how excited you were to get that going
Vince. Sou brasileiro e aqui temos um ditado que diz: brasileiro não desiste nunca. E igual a você não desisti e assisti ao vídeo todo. mas saiba que há outros igual a você no mundo. Sou seu fã. Abraços
You should have removed the battery before you started shorting pins/traces together with your soldering iron....
Я часто смотрю, как люди делают такие ошибки. Вероятно, не считается необходимым.
If you buy "SMD glue" and cooper strips you can rebuild tracks like those gold fingers. You just need to activate it with heat.
BTW, when heating a component you should leave the tweezers close to the air flow so they get warm to avoid thermal shocks.
@TehPsychedelic something like this:
ebay.to/2suGzqX
It has an internal pump that makes the air flow constant, not those ones similar to Vince that has a blower inside the air gun, that blows air irregularly which makes the temperature not stable.
I also recommend a T12 soldering station, take a look on my channel and see the review i've made (close to the end of the video)
you have to apply 3v and 100-300ma current to vdd and see what is heating up,and replace. it takes no much time
Wonderful trouble shooting skills thank you Sir!
Good example of when you find one fault it doesn't automatically mean there are no other faults.
Many times I have found multiple faults on a PCB, often due to a cascade effect, but not always.
The pins on the other side are to help hold down the real pins on the game board, they are there to the vias have something to attach to, and if the vias weren't those the pins would be damaged more easily
Thank you :-)
@@Mymatevince it's always nice to learn something new, I remember when you started you were well below me In standard small repairs, now I can confidently say you are most likely better then I am, granted all I do if fix a tv with a blown cap from time to time,swap out a joysick on a controller when it starts drifting or replace a screen on a phone or tablet, yeah I've done more complicated stuff from time to time, but you seem better at it then I do now, you aren't a Louis rossmann but your well on your way there
@@jaykoerner Well that is some good praise there. Thank you my friend :-)
Hi Vince, noticed than in all? of your videos there is a slightly annoying humming noise in the background. Maybe an amplifier turned on or a power supply. Can you please try to fix that? Thank you!
>uses all boards to make one.
>Pokemon Blorange
Remember one of 'em is in french so would be Pokemon l'blorange avec frankencartue
Oh boy you sure have gotten better with that heat station after that Nintendo Switch BBQ fiasco....lol
I’m hoping there will be another Blair Witch adventure at some point in this video! 😂. I’m stick chuckling now😂
Stick chuckling?
Is that a euphemism for something? 🤔🤣
Pete Allum it sure is!
I admire your tenacity and your will not to give up. Good job!
Hi Vince, you might want to look at the chips datasheet. I must say I like a lot the way you diagnose stuff but you might be confused with some pins that are doing chip configurations like CE, OE , etc
Hey Vince. A normal working game also freezes like that sometimes. Usually fixable by taking the cartridge out and in a few times.
That says to me, there is potentially some play between the top and bottom cartridge for the motherboard!
I would try to put something under/over top it in between the two plastic covers to keep it more still... (Aim it to hit the gameboy's pins better)
Thank you Vince
Love your long videos :))))
Hi Vince, I'm a student from Poland and your viewer. I have a problem with my Pokemon Emerald for the GBA. It was a gift from a good frend and it means a lot to me. The battery was dead so I send it to a guy who repairs games and consoles. He changed the battery, but the game isn't working any more. I can pay the shipping thats no problem. I know that a other game would by cheaper , but this game is really important for me.
Its even to a problem,if you won't be able to repair it. At least I will know it's dead for good. :D Have a nice day.
Nicely done
Watching this again 2 years later I noticed the gold Spanish version was actually Silver version in Spanish, wonder if the person who sent them mixed them up or if that other chip made the gold version change to silver.
Noticed that as well, surprised there aren't more people mentioning it.