Cree is, to my opinion, among the best in LED-development. Their warm-white is the best warm-white I know of. The first time I saw a warm-white Cree P4 I had to check with the power off to see whether it was a incandescent bulb or a LED. It proved to be a LED. Addicted ever since ;)
Yeah I have learned more about it, now Im going only with what you just said, 7 royal blue, 44 red and 2 deep red rebel star, I hope I can make this work out.
A little more info during the whole process will be helpful for the handy people watching this otherwise very informative video. Specifically all the parts and components used should be introduced and how they function as well. The paste thing in the beginning, a novice, like myself would certainly not know what that is and would require clarification of that segment as it does seem very important.
Hello, I would like to make this kind of soldering at home, as the leds I want aren't available pre-mounted in stars.Do you think is as easy as it looks? I will use Osram Oslons thought, that are slightly smaller. What kind of soldering paste do you use? regards.
Could you power this with a 9 volt? I am thinking these would draw too much amperage? The red one I am looking at is 2.1Vf @ 350 mA or 2.3Vf @ 700 mA, when I look online to step down the voltage with a resistor, the power dissapation across the resistor is very high, around 2.6 watts. I know very little about electronics, is there a better way?
Suggest you show use of flux on the pads you tin. Always say which LED you are using? Why use a 20mm star, not say 16mm? Your iron looked low in wattage, would not a 60 watt iron with slightly bigger tip have been more useful? If reflow technique is used to mount the LED what temp should be sought, what solder, what flux paste & typically how long would this take? What is the blue film you put on & them take off? What is the heat sink & what is its capacity what wattage LEDs can it cope with?
Professional oven or hotplate, but you use a heat gun? Don't apply heat directly, but you do that with the heat gun? How are there at least two contacts if solder paste connects everything?
@@CutterElectronics Sorry nvm mind question I was just hoping to make a very small li-poly or 1x10440 keychain flashlight to use strong led like xpl hi v3 or xhp35. But I'm so lost on how to design a small heatsink for the led. Thanks for the reply anyway cheers!
could you tell me what is the part you used in the video? Like the thermal coupler, the double sided tape and the heat sink with thread? Where I can buy it?
Do you use them for horticulture/reef or to light the house? Im thinking of getting 72 cree leds, 48 cree xpe, 6 warm white, 6 cool white xtes, 12 royal blue xtes, thats all to grow marijuana, do you think I will be able to flower my plants with these leds + 6 deep reds?
None of the above so far... I'm still planning on using a bunch of those in a light I still have to design ;) I have no idea whether you're setup will have great benefits for your plants ;)
No resistor, they used a constant-current LED driver module. Resistors are very inefficient and are not good if the system voltage fluctuates more than 10% or so. A proper driver will work a lot better, produce less heat, and protect your expensive LEDs.
Yes there is: don't use a 9-volt battery, they are absolutely horrible for anything over 150-300ma. If you must use a 9-volt, buy a proper switching-mode constant-current driver to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level. You'd be much better off using two lithium-ion cells in series with said driver module; for the same size and weight as a 9-volt, you'll get a lot more performance, and much longer battery life.
Cree is, to my opinion, among the best in LED-development. Their warm-white is the best warm-white I know of. The first time I saw a warm-white Cree P4 I had to check with the power off to see whether it was a incandescent bulb or a LED. It proved to be a LED. Addicted ever since ;)
Yeah I have learned more about it, now Im going only with what you just said, 7 royal blue, 44 red and 2 deep red rebel star, I hope I can make this work out.
A little more info during the whole process will be helpful for the handy people watching this otherwise very informative video. Specifically all the parts and components used should be introduced and how they function as well.
The paste thing in the beginning, a novice, like myself would certainly not know what that is and would require clarification of that segment as it does seem very important.
Hello, I would like to make this kind of soldering at home, as the leds I want aren't available pre-mounted in stars.Do you think is as easy as it looks? I will use Osram Oslons thought, that are slightly smaller. What kind of soldering paste do you use? regards.
Could you power this with a 9 volt? I am thinking these would draw too much amperage? The red one I am looking at is 2.1Vf @ 350 mA or 2.3Vf @ 700 mA, when I look online to step down the voltage with a resistor, the power dissapation across the resistor is very high, around 2.6 watts. I know very little about electronics, is there a better way?
thank you interesting video...why you dont solder the 4 pins...i have one have 5 pins i dont know wich one use
How do i know what side to solder the correct wires to CutterElectronics
Why dont you solder the connecting wires first to the star mount and then attach the led, It will avoid damaging th LED?
could i use:
1. hair dryer
2. solder gun
3. stove and frying pan
to heat the bottom of the pcd board?
Suggest you show use of flux on the pads you tin.
Always say which LED you are using?
Why use a 20mm star, not say 16mm?
Your iron looked low in wattage, would not a 60 watt iron with slightly bigger tip have been more useful?
If reflow technique is used to mount the LED what temp should be sought, what solder, what flux paste & typically how long would this take?
What is the blue film you put on & them take off?
What is the heat sink & what is its capacity what wattage LEDs can it cope with?
Thanks for this video
Which glue has used to put led on star?
Thanks for the video. It's very informative& and it helped me greatly. What are the lumens rated at on those particular chips?
What kind of solder paste y'all use?
Professional oven or hotplate, but you use a heat gun? Don't apply heat directly, but you do that with the heat gun? How are there at least two contacts if solder paste connects everything?
Heat gun is used outside of the chip to help 'convect' the temp around the device
whats the temperature for soldering?
solder will not adhere to solder mask which is between pads, so surface tension(meniscus) will pull solder only onto copper pads
can you teach more about the polarity? lets say i wanna make custom copper heatsink, how do i make + and - ?
not sure I understand your requirement? can you give more details
@@CutterElectronics Sorry nvm mind question I was just hoping to make a very small li-poly or 1x10440 keychain flashlight to use strong led like xpl hi v3 or xhp35. But I'm so lost on how to design a small heatsink for the led. Thanks for the reply anyway cheers!
what kind of resistor did you use?
could you tell me what is the part you used in the video? Like the thermal coupler, the double sided tape and the heat sink with thread? Where I can buy it?
yes all these items are available on our website www.cutter.com.au
Cheers
Mark
I don't understand, how that soldering line will not short circuit.
Do you use them for horticulture/reef or to light the house? Im thinking of getting 72 cree leds, 48 cree xpe, 6 warm white, 6 cool white xtes, 12 royal blue xtes, thats all to grow marijuana, do you think I will be able to flower my plants with these leds + 6 deep reds?
Thanks for watching. The glue is not glue, it is solder paste which reflows with heat to create electrical bond
+CutterElectronics is it basically solder? could i just use solder instead?
+Ben C
Yes you can if thats all you have. Solder paste is solder, its is liquid form so much easier to use
Hi! Were can i get the cree without the star or circuit board?
www.cutter.com.au
I would just go with blues and reds, add in a few deep reds and you're set, the green is reflected away anyway so using white would be inefficient
Could you use normal solder to reflow it?
yes just a bit more involved and you need to get the solder molten
So pre tin the board, let it cool and then place the LED on top after that reheat should work fine?
correct, bit more process but doable
The temperature is determined by the melt point of the solder you use, around180- 200C is a good start point
that seems way to low. 350 is good. 400 for hot air but that might damage the led. sand or oven is better for some things
@@mjyanimations1062 maybe look at conversion of celcius to farenheit
@@CutterElectronics I'm using C. it still takes at least 300C to melt solder fot me.
@@mjyanimations1062 Sorry my error I should have originally said 380-400C
Thats 3w led? If it is, wow, very powerful.
None of the above so far... I'm still planning on using a bunch of those in a light I still have to design ;)
I have no idea whether you're setup will have great benefits for your plants ;)
No resistor, they used a constant-current LED driver module. Resistors are very inefficient and are not good if the system voltage fluctuates more than 10% or so. A proper driver will work a lot better, produce less heat, and protect your expensive LEDs.
vídeo bem elaborado, parabéns infelizmente não é PT BR.
Thank you, not sure what PT BR is ?
CutterElectronics É Português PT do Brasil BR
the solder mask will resist solder, so solder will only 'stick' on bare copper
Yes there is: don't use a 9-volt battery, they are absolutely horrible for anything over 150-300ma. If you must use a 9-volt, buy a proper switching-mode constant-current driver to bring the voltage down to a reasonable level. You'd be much better off using two lithium-ion cells in series with said driver module; for the same size and weight as a 9-volt, you'll get a lot more performance, and much longer battery life.
we use lead and lead free
is this the beavis and butthead music