About 4 months ago we bought two 18K Mr Cools advantage (non-DIY) from Lowes and called every HVAC business in Palestine Texas and the surrounding communities with not one willing to do the installation. I called our local Lowes a couple of Lowes in the Houston, Texas area and their district manager and no one could provide me with a name or number of an installer capable and willing to do the installation. I even called the Mr. Cool people with zero luck. I was trying not to void my warranty. I am very familiar with refrigeration but in a much larger scale using either Ammonia, Ethylene or Propylene. I understand the propblems encountered if the system is contaminated with non condensables or hydrates. So I went and bought a vacuum pump and gauge and I am doing it myself. ( i am a retired 70 year old with plenty of time and a a little bit of patience) Your video flipped my switch to just go ahead and do it myself. BTW our ethylene compressor at work was about 50Khp. Large scale cryogenic distillation, man.
Glad it helped, I am getting ready to pull the trigger on another one for the auto shop, I feel like I can hopefully do a better install video for that one
Great Video It saved me a small fortune that our family does not have and we have never had AC in our house because of the cost. I have ordered the same kit and look forward to the install thanks to your video
It is pretty straight forward, The biggy is making sure you have the adapter that has the little thing in it to depress the Schrader valve inside the Mini Split.
Wow Ryan, this video was an absolute life saver! I was struggling to find a 9k DIY unit since they only make a 12k DIY. But they have the advantage unit. I followed your buy list to the T and it was exactly what I needed! I have no prior A/C experience but your instructions were perfect. I successfully installed 2 9k units and vacuumed them out and the gauges were perfectly accurate. I probably contributed to 10-15 views of your video as I pieced it all together. I cannot thank you enough!
Really glad it helped and glad you where able to do it yourself, its rewarding to learn the ins and outs and this way if you ever have an issue you know how it works
Great easy to follow installation. I am to the vacuum part and I do not have the tools for that so I will be calling a heating and cooling company to do that part.
Josh, That is the part that worried me the most as well. We decided that because we had the tools we would attempt it, we where prepared to fail and spend more money though.
Great video all around. Few things to clarify. No minimum length, total length for my install was about 4ft. A little bit of refrigerant did have to be removed. The shorter then run the better in most cases. This is why I didn't buy the DIY version. The extra coil outside is wasted energy. Also the 3rd gen Advantage's now seem to be shipping with the power cable. Double check the interior unit's box before purchasing one.
Great video. Such a smooth and concise process. Being from Texas I didn't even notice the gun until I read the comments. I'm at the point of the vacuum pump and figured I would hire someone to do it and apparently no one in Texas wants to touch it for less than $900. So my question is what kind of vacuum pump set up do I need, I saw a mention of an adapter. This part feels more specialized than I wanted. 😅
How do you install if you can’t drill the hole on the same wall? I only have one walk where it is big enough to mount but it is not an outside wall so I would have to drill the hole on a seperate outside wall.
did you correct your measurement for the hole you said it had to be 1.7 above the bottom of the unit and when you measure it you added 1/4 inch to the 0.7 making it 1inch when it should have been 2 inches
Great vid, one of the cleanest installs on UA-cam.what advice would you give someone like me: I also would like to install a non DIY unit but I worry about warranty not being honored by manufacturer.As anyone can plainly see your install is well researched and well installed the only concern I would have is obviously the warranty being voided should I not hire a licensed HVAC tech to do the install.BTW awesome tip on actually opening smaller line to equalize pressure so as not to suck in humidity (have not seen that in any other install vid)
Well on the topic of warranty, This mini split cost $750 delivered for the complete assembly. So I can assume if I needed an outdoor or indoor unit it would be say $400. I cant hire an HVAC guy for that amount unfortunately. Also depending on the state you live in the licensing requirements are different so for Maine for example we dont license HVAC as such. I did find that you can take an online class and test for refrigeration for a few bucks and would likely qualify you for the warranty. Ultimately it comes down to how much money are you willing to lose and in my case I figured the gamble was worth it.
The lack of warranty is hard, What I did find (And haven't done it yet) is an online class to get you certified to handle refrigerant. It was like $50 if I recall. In some states (Like Maine) there is no professional license for HVAC directly you just have to be certified to handle the refrigerant. I am unclear if that would satisfy the warranty or not? What I can tell you is be careful with the lineset, soft copper kinks very easy. Plan the install out ahead of time and pay special attention to the flares as it is your only leak point that you have control over. If you are going to shorten the lineset buy a GOOD flaring tool and practice on the scrap line set first. This is the one place not to save money for sure. As for opening the opposite side and allowing a little pressure into the system, I cant take credit for that I saw it on a you tube video of an installation I watched and thought it made tons of sense.
It is a Heyco strain relief some times called a cord grip. They have a rubber grommet inside them. This one was a single large hole made for that size cable. You can get them at an electrical supply house or probably at home depot
I loved the video. My only sticking point is I didn't see how you connected your power line from the breaker to the outside source and then to the unit. That is the problem im having. Can you explain that part.
Derrick, We did a year end review and at the end Ryan goes over the electrical connections in detail, Let us know if this helps ua-cam.com/video/RAAXolNe6Gc/v-deo.html
My only recommendations: Use lubricant ONLY on the back side of copper flare. Install a small bead of clear silicone around perimeter of indoor unit. The blower wheel pulls dirt in that collects on wall, unit, bearings and wheel, shortening life and blower efficiency. Also some units are charged for a 25’ line set, meaning you may need to remove some R-410A refrigerant if your line set is 15’ in length. About 0.2 oz/ft. If you want an HVAC contractor to install and provide 1 yr labor/10 yr parts warranty, pay the extra $1000-$1300. Otherwise good luck and hope it doesn’t break down.
Good advice on the install, As for professional install, We did understand the risk and chose to go this route, if one was concerned about warranty they could do the "DIY" line also as they are fully warranted without a hvac installer or they could hire an installer to install this series for sure
The bending 90 degrees on the mini split itself was pretty easy the line has a spring around it to help prevent kinking. I used up the line set around the outdoor unit as I didn't want to re flare the line set. I do know there is a minimum length on line sets also but never bothered to look on this one as I didn't plan to shorten the line set.
I'm curious if you would happen to understand the instructions on the 12K120V unit breaker. I think your instructions mentioned 15A Outdoor / 15A Indoor. My 12K Advantage says 20A Outdoor / 15A indoor. Does that mean I am to install 2 breakers to power them both? In that case, why the power between the two units? Thanks and this video was excellent.
Los Angeles, CA. It reached 121 F last year where I live. My central A/C died after 30 years in my 3 story condo. I was quoted it would cost 12K to replace it since it is on the roof. I purchase a MrCool 24000 3rd Gen DIY from CostCo May 2021. I installed in my second floor and put the condenser outside on my balcony and I have the line to leak the water going to a tree. It is now Jun 2021 and cold air floods my entire living room, my office area, kitchen, and almost reaches the front door with cool air. I am now trying to buy another Mr Cool but CostCo sold out :( I need one more for my bedroom 3rd floor going for 12K MrCool.
I plan on doing an Advantage Mini Split and your video has helped explain things more than any others I have watched. Thank you! One question I have is at 26:46 I noticed you have the hex wrench in on the low pressure side. Then you move it to the high pressure side and open it to let some pressure into the system before you disconnect your hoses. I was just wondering why your hex is inserted in the low pressure side. Had you opened it at some point during the procedure and I just missed it? Thanks!
How would one go about identifying if their 9k unit came charged for a 25' line set and a 16' line set was provided? Can you suggest a guide for draining the condenser if it is over-charged?
For anyone reading this -- the procedure is called 'hvac recovery'. Specifically in my case, I called MrCool and they mentioned my 9k advantage unit did come charged with refrigerant and the 16' line set should be okay to use out of the box. The customer support rep did mention it was intended for pros to install so he couldn't give me better numbers, which I get. He did mention the unit will throw an over-pressure error if there's too much refrigerant in the system so I'm going with the sensor data and see if I can detect over pressure with some of the tools I picked up.
So the lineset comes with an insulation on it. I suspect if you removed it all then yes the system would be less efficient. I think if you have a few inches of line exposed it is not a big deal if that makes sense? Every inch of bare copper will lose some heating or cooling but the amount would be pretty minimal for a few inches
On the DIY series the lines are pre charged but on the other models they are not. As for the blue valve the gauges on the valve set do not show vacuum, they show pressure. The CPS gauge on the mini split shows vacuum. So when I shut that and let it set it was to check for leaks. The number on the CPS gauge would go up if the system had a leak.
Does the electric need to be connected before the lines are vaccuumed and charged for any reason? I have everything ready to go but some delays in my electric connect.
I'm running the same setup as you on the vacuum pump w the gauge. However mine has gotten down to around 12000 microns and wont go lower. I tightened all the fittings, what an i doing wrong?
My guess is a leak somewhere, You could pressurize it with Nitrogen to see if it holds pressure, I am not very familiar with that process so it will take some research but I understand that is the best way to check for leaks
Terrific video. Thank you so much! Great recommendation on buying the vacrometer for accuracy. Did you have any issues with evacuating your lines and your vacrometer fluctuating? I'm currently vacuuming my line set. The vacrometer will fluctuate but then stabilize below 1,000 MIC.
I know codes are different depending on where you live, but I just read that the electrical cable that leaves the outdoor unit and goes to the indoor unit has to be in rigid conduit once it leaves the line set cover. Is that not code where you live? I'm not sure here in TN, but it does seem like it would be a good idea.
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 this video is saving my for many of the reasons people are mentioning. How do i know if my unit has the freon already in it? I have the Mr. cool Advantage 24K. I am ordering the guages today and vacuum
Well the issue as I know it and I am far from a pro, is that the moisture in the lines will cause the equipment to fail over time. I think if this is the case one may want to hire some one to evacuate it, vacuam it down and recharge it but again I am far from a pro
I bought the 9000 btu version. It says 15amp 230v. Will a 2 pole 15amp breaker and 14/2 wire with ground work to power it? Also what disconnect box would.that need? Thanks your video is very helpful!
If its a North American version with 240v 60Hz then yes National Electrical Code says a 15 amp circuit needs 14 gauge wire and the Mini Split does not use a neutral so 14-2 with ground would work. As for disconnect, I really like the non fused style like I used with handle on the side
Hi,.. Is the line set directional?... That's to say.... R the connectors specific to the indoor /outdoor units? Mine came with no identifying marks to orient correctly.... Thanks.
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 Hi,... and thanks for taking the time to reply. I hooked them up this after and seems to be working ok... "Your are correct sir!" either that or the 50/50 shot worked! BTW , I've got a yard grading project,... can I borrow your tractor?...please!
Did I miss when you charged the system with the R-410? All you did was "crack the valve" on the outdoor unit to 1-2psi, disconnected the vacuum guage, opened all the valves and then turned it on?
We got ours here ua-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbXJ4TjBFZUhjeFROdFl1VDFRazNKOGJyajFqd3xBQ3Jtc0ttbXRxQlpQbENVcFNXWEJxRU1tcVl1dnYtdGFIT3g1c1pBeEprU2xpdExpWGdHNjdhN3lEYTNXSGx1YTRQX2czMzB1bnRVQnFYQ2UycEJhLVlCaXhva1hRcUpreVROcmdEWS1KZXkwZEhJOVBHcDk0TQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ecomfort.com%2FRectorseal-WBB300%2Fp31087.html
Hello soon ill be buying me a 12000 btu MrCool 120v just wondering when u opened the top valve to let some refrigerant to 2 lbs in did u close the valve back or left it open in that position before opening both valves ?
I just purchased a non DIY 18k Mr. Cool unit for my garage. Watching your fantastic video I noticed in the beginning where you spoke about the black wire that connects the inside unit to the outside unit needs to be purchased? I have a gen 3 setup coming, I wasn’t told I needed that wire. Now I’m worried I need to purchase that as well?
@@skeptical_fuzz yeah they definitely do. I didn’t know so I purchased one on Amazon and ended up with a extra lol. The install went perfectly thanks to this helpful video. I’m actually working in my garage right now wrapping a Ford Focus RS nice and comfortable.
So you did not have to charge the unit as all the required refrigerant is in the outside unit? Some HVAC businesses will not touch these units so you could be out of luck if your install does not go well. I thought the warranty said these units had to be professionally installed?
Yes, like most brands like Fujitsu or Mitsubishi etc the outdoor unit comes precharged so all the technician has to do is check for leaks and evacuate them. As for warranty well that was a risk, we weighed but this unit complete was about $700 and comparatively the Fujitsu we had professionally installed cost us over $3,000. We made the decision to risk it on this one. You can purchase the DIY version for $500 more that has a warranty for DIY but then its $500 more lol
But how much 410a did you add? You only added 2ish pounds so you had a positive pressure. You didn't show the steps for the pressures you need when everything is up and running.
Well I am not a licensed HVAC tech but my gut tells me you need to hire a pro to come evacuate the refrigerant, Vacuum it down and them charge it with the proper amount of refrigerant..
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 awesome! So all have have to pay for is getting it vacuumed. I didn't realize the "advantage" line isn't the same as the diy line. They should call it the disadvantage line.
@@seapanther53 Yeah I think the only difference is one has quick connects on the line set and one has flared fittings. Of course the quick connects mean it doesn't have to be vacuumed but you can cut the line set to the desired length making a cleaner install.
Are you still happy with the mr cool advantage series? I thought I was ordering the diy but I received 3) 18k advantage series. But I’m just gonna order a vacuum pump and install myself
I'm not cutting the lines. I'll snake them down the inside of the wall and insulate it all.I'm actually going to run the lines before the drywall goes in! I gutted and reinsulated that wall so it'll be easy.
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 I was rethinking this and it would be a bit more complicated than I initially thought. I'd have to hang sheetrock where the head goes and leave below open so I can snake the lines, then when everything is connected can finish the drywall.
I just bought the Advantage Gen 3 12,000 btu.But mine runs off 110 volts.So that tells me I don't need the outside disconnect.Mine is not the DIY,so I'm gonna have to do the vacumn part,only thing I'm worried about.
@@randyragland9218 I dont want to say for certain but my experience in the electrical world and NEC tells me you still require a service disconnect within so many feet of the device, You may want to consult a local electrician in your area but for our area a service disconnect is required regardless of system voltage on anything hardwired like this
@@randyragland9218 yes National Electrical Code requires any AC to have a disconnect located within like 3 ft of the outside unit. There should also be a service outlet. You can kind of get away without the outlet but not the disconnect.
El arma que traes en el cinturón es para el “apriete” de las tuercas? Te recomiendo tomar un jarabe de cebolla y aceite de ricino para tu problema de garganta-nariz.
Mostly due to the fact Ryan was nervous he wouldn't do a good job and would have a leak, but we were also told by our local installer who did our fujitsu that every model has a minimum length as well so as it is on the back side of the shop, we chose to just use up the excess
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 i’m only asking if wiring the indoor unit 123 only needs to match the outside unit 123. As I referenced videos and the installation guide, I noticed everything I saw had units that came with a cord already attached. I noticed my unit had a cord just like yours. It caught me off guard because every diagram speaks about blue wire, yellow wire and obviously a red and a black, but they would not specify anything about what goes where. Every video and everything I saw told me that the wire should be labeled and my wires definitely were not labeled. if you could just verify matching the 123 indoor and outdoor than I think I’m completely good. It was a setback for me yesterday.
Can you please provide advice on this matter? I installed a 3-zone MRCOOL DIY 24k BTU in my house, but one of the lines is a couple of feet short to the compressor. Instead of buying a coupler and another set of 16 ft. line sets to connect my original 25 ft. line set, potentially introducing more problems with oil not draining properly, I would like to cut some extra copper material of the longer line set and braze it with the copper of the shorter line set. I don't need to flare the ends because I'm still using the QuickConnect connectors of the line set, I'm only using the extra copper. Because the line set is pre-charged and vacuumed with refrigerant, after connecting the line set to the condenser, can I still perform the same steps you did, i.e. vacuum the line set and ensure it's under 500 microns? There's no added steps I need to perform, even though these are pre-charged line sets? Thank you.
Not sure personally, I think the issue you may have is the DIY style has quick couplings and I am not sure if you can still pull a vacuam? I would guess that the line set is not actually charged but if it was it would be a minimal amount so in theory this idea may work but I think if it where me I would by the extension set with couplings
About 4 months ago we bought two 18K Mr Cools advantage (non-DIY) from Lowes and called every HVAC business in Palestine Texas and the surrounding communities with not one willing to do the installation. I called our local Lowes a couple of Lowes in the Houston, Texas area and their district manager and no one could provide me with a name or number of an installer capable and willing to do the installation. I even called the Mr. Cool people with zero luck. I was trying not to void my warranty. I am very familiar with refrigeration but in a much larger scale using either Ammonia, Ethylene or Propylene. I understand the propblems encountered if the system is contaminated with non condensables or hydrates. So I went and bought a vacuum pump and gauge and I am doing it myself. ( i am a retired 70 year old with plenty of time and a a little bit of patience) Your video flipped my switch to just go ahead and do it myself. BTW our ethylene compressor at work was about 50Khp. Large scale cryogenic distillation, man.
Thank you so much for this post!!!! It took FOREVER to find an install video for a NON DIY!!!!!
Glad it helped, I am getting ready to pull the trigger on another one for the auto shop, I feel like I can hopefully do a better install video for that one
Great Video It saved me a small fortune that our family does not have and we have never had AC in our house because of the cost. I have ordered the same kit and look forward to the install thanks to your video
Thanks for showing the vacuuming steps, exactly what I was looking for
It is pretty straight forward, The biggy is making sure you have the adapter that has the little thing in it to depress the Schrader valve inside the Mini Split.
Thank you so much. I chose to order the advantage unit because the DIY was more expensive and you walked me through it all.
Hope it works well for you. Good luck.
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 Worked out perfectly. I'm about to do a second. Thanks!
Wow Ryan, this video was an absolute life saver! I was struggling to find a 9k DIY unit since they only make a 12k DIY. But they have the advantage unit. I followed your buy list to the T and it was exactly what I needed! I have no prior A/C experience but your instructions were perfect. I successfully installed 2 9k units and vacuumed them out and the gauges were perfectly accurate. I probably contributed to 10-15 views of your video as I pieced it all together. I cannot thank you enough!
Really glad it helped and glad you where able to do it yourself, its rewarding to learn the ins and outs and this way if you ever have an issue you know how it works
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 don't buy a 3-phase service disconnect and save youself a return visit to the store.
Installing ac while strapped. I love it. In a serios note thank you for this. It helped me a lot.
Glad it helped.
Video is a great source of info just installed a 24k mr cool (non diy)!
Thank You, We really like ours so far and I am pretty sure we will be installing a second one in the Auto Shop soon
Great easy to follow installation. I am to the vacuum part and I do not have the tools for that so I will be calling a heating and cooling company to do that part.
Josh, That is the part that worried me the most as well. We decided that because we had the tools we would attempt it, we where prepared to fail and spend more money though.
This is exactly what I needed to see. Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
No luck getting the CPS gauge to read after I hooked it all up. It showed the initial reading, then just spinning dashes…
Great video all around. Few things to clarify.
No minimum length, total length for my install was about 4ft. A little bit of refrigerant did have to be removed. The shorter then run the better in most cases. This is why I didn't buy the DIY version. The extra coil outside is wasted energy.
Also the 3rd gen Advantage's now seem to be shipping with the power cable. Double check the interior unit's box before purchasing one.
Great video. Such a smooth and concise process. Being from Texas I didn't even notice the gun until I read the comments.
I'm at the point of the vacuum pump and figured I would hire someone to do it and apparently no one in Texas wants to touch it for less than $900.
So my question is what kind of vacuum pump set up do I need, I saw a mention of an adapter. This part feels more specialized than I wanted. 😅
we added links above to the tools and equipment we used. It was a pretty affordable vacuam pump kit off amazon
How do you install if you can’t drill the hole on the same wall? I only have one walk where it is big enough to mount but it is not an outside wall so I would have to drill the hole on a seperate outside wall.
good job
Thank You
did you correct your measurement for the hole you said it had to be 1.7 above the bottom of the unit and when you measure it you added 1/4 inch to the 0.7 making it 1inch when it should have been 2 inches
You gave Sue the heavy end!
Great vid, one of the cleanest installs on UA-cam.what advice would you give someone like me: I also would like to install a non DIY unit but I worry about warranty not being honored by manufacturer.As anyone can plainly see your install is well researched and well installed the only concern I would have is obviously the warranty being voided should I not hire a licensed HVAC tech to do the install.BTW awesome tip on actually opening smaller line to equalize pressure so as not to suck in humidity (have not seen that in any other install vid)
Well on the topic of warranty, This mini split cost $750 delivered for the complete assembly. So I can assume if I needed an outdoor or indoor unit it would be say $400. I cant hire an HVAC guy for that amount unfortunately. Also depending on the state you live in the licensing requirements are different so for Maine for example we dont license HVAC as such. I did find that you can take an online class and test for refrigeration for a few bucks and would likely qualify you for the warranty. Ultimately it comes down to how much money are you willing to lose and in my case I figured the gamble was worth it.
The lack of warranty is hard, What I did find (And haven't done it yet) is an online class to get you certified to handle refrigerant. It was like $50 if I recall. In some states (Like Maine) there is no professional license for HVAC directly you just have to be certified to handle the refrigerant. I am unclear if that would satisfy the warranty or not?
What I can tell you is be careful with the lineset, soft copper kinks very easy. Plan the install out ahead of time and pay special attention to the flares as it is your only leak point that you have control over. If you are going to shorten the lineset buy a GOOD flaring tool and practice on the scrap line set first. This is the one place not to save money for sure.
As for opening the opposite side and allowing a little pressure into the system, I cant take credit for that I saw it on a you tube video of an installation I watched and thought it made tons of sense.
Great Video , on the black wire to the condenser you have a black connector where where can i buy that piece ?
It is a Heyco strain relief some times called a cord grip. They have a rubber grommet inside them. This one was a single large hole made for that size cable. You can get them at an electrical supply house or probably at home depot
I loved the video. My only sticking point is I didn't see how you connected your power line from the breaker to the outside source and then to the unit. That is the problem im having. Can you explain that part.
Derrick, We did a year end review and at the end Ryan goes over the electrical connections in detail, Let us know if this helps ua-cam.com/video/RAAXolNe6Gc/v-deo.html
My only recommendations: Use lubricant ONLY on the back side of copper flare. Install a small bead of clear silicone around perimeter of indoor unit. The blower wheel pulls dirt in that collects on wall, unit, bearings and wheel, shortening life and blower efficiency. Also some units are charged for a 25’ line set, meaning you may need to remove some R-410A refrigerant if your line set is 15’ in length. About 0.2 oz/ft. If you want an HVAC contractor to install and provide 1 yr labor/10 yr parts warranty, pay the extra $1000-$1300. Otherwise good luck and hope it doesn’t break down.
Good advice on the install, As for professional install, We did understand the risk and chose to go this route, if one was concerned about warranty they could do the "DIY" line also as they are fully warranted without a hvac installer or they could hire an installer to install this series for sure
Thanks Ryan, Did you have any issues with bending the line set 90 degrees? Also, what did you do with the excess line set.
The bending 90 degrees on the mini split itself was pretty easy the line has a spring around it to help prevent kinking. I used up the line set around the outdoor unit as I didn't want to re flare the line set. I do know there is a minimum length on line sets also but never bothered to look on this one as I didn't plan to shorten the line set.
I'm curious if you would happen to understand the instructions on the 12K120V unit breaker. I think your instructions mentioned 15A Outdoor / 15A Indoor. My 12K Advantage says 20A Outdoor / 15A indoor. Does that mean I am to install 2 breakers to power them both? In that case, why the power between the two units? Thanks and this video was excellent.
Hm thats a darn good question on any I have seen the inside unit gets its power from the outside unit through the control cable.
Great video. Where did you get the channeling to hold the pipes, drain, and wiring?
ua-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbldJZG1Ub3BMN1Jud0VVZXBPT2JSUmpiZXFJZ3xBQ3Jtc0tsLVhMcW1GYTFPNGNuNzRKYnktd1hycW52dUVhajRDM2J1YXI4ZjdWcmNvSjZqSW8xdWFfWVhwTXFueEZrTVd2VzdzTTF6Njl2SUxhYzhTcEU1RjFEYU00NHpMbU9mN0Rad21HM0JpY3ZlNGgwXzZVMA&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ecomfort.com%2FFortress-LDK92W%2Fp83102.html&v=7qXNz9wul-o
Los Angeles, CA. It reached 121 F last year where I live. My central A/C died after 30 years in my 3 story condo. I was quoted it would cost 12K to replace it since it is on the roof. I purchase a MrCool 24000 3rd Gen DIY from CostCo May 2021. I installed in my second floor and put the condenser outside on my balcony and I have the line to leak the water going to a tree. It is now Jun 2021 and cold air floods my entire living room, my office area, kitchen, and almost reaches the front door with cool air. I am now trying to buy another Mr Cool but CostCo sold out :( I need one more for my bedroom 3rd floor going for 12K MrCool.
The AC sure is nice when it is hot out, We plan to install a second one this summer in the auto shop
How is the tree doing?😎
With connections on the right of the outside unit, does the fan blow to the wall or away from the wall? Thanks!
The unit itself draws the air in through the top to be conditioned and blows it out the front/bottom corner conditioned
I plan on doing an Advantage Mini Split and your video has helped explain things more than any others I have watched. Thank you! One question I have is at 26:46 I noticed you have the hex wrench in on the low pressure side. Then you move it to the high pressure side and open it to let some pressure into the system before you disconnect your hoses. I was just wondering why your hex is inserted in the low pressure side. Had you opened it at some point during the procedure and I just missed it? Thanks!
He was just storing it there. Wasn't opened before charging.
Correct
How would one go about identifying if their 9k unit came charged for a 25' line set and a 16' line set was provided? Can you suggest a guide for draining the condenser if it is over-charged?
For anyone reading this -- the procedure is called 'hvac recovery'. Specifically in my case, I called MrCool and they mentioned my 9k advantage unit did come charged with refrigerant and the 16' line set should be okay to use out of the box. The customer support rep did mention it was intended for pros to install so he couldn't give me better numbers, which I get.
He did mention the unit will throw an over-pressure error if there's too much refrigerant in the system so I'm going with the sensor data and see if I can detect over pressure with some of the tools I picked up.
I read some were you will loose heat and cooling if you leave a roll of lineset exposed to the elliments ,Is this true?
So the lineset comes with an insulation on it. I suspect if you removed it all then yes the system would be less efficient. I think if you have a few inches of line exposed it is not a big deal if that makes sense? Every inch of bare copper will lose some heating or cooling but the amount would be pretty minimal for a few inches
2 questions. I thought the Mr. Cool linesets came precharged? When you closed the blue valve doesnt that just lock in the pressure in the gauge?
On the DIY series the lines are pre charged but on the other models they are not. As for the blue valve the gauges on the valve set do not show vacuum, they show pressure. The CPS gauge on the mini split shows vacuum. So when I shut that and let it set it was to check for leaks. The number on the CPS gauge would go up if the system had a leak.
Question
On the low pressure side when vacuuming did you open the valve or do you only open the low pressure after the high pressure is opened?
I only opened the one valve
Does the electric need to be connected before the lines are vaccuumed and charged for any reason? I have everything ready to go but some delays in my electric connect.
No you dont need the connected to do the vacuum process.
I thought there was a 3 1/2" hole saw included and a white pvc insert that goes in the hole
to protect lines and wires.
No hole saw but they did come with a sleeve, I chose not to use it as I wanted to get spray foam out into the adjoining isulation
I'm running the same setup as you on the vacuum pump w the gauge. However mine has gotten down to around 12000 microns and wont go lower. I tightened all the fittings, what an i doing wrong?
My guess is a leak somewhere, You could pressurize it with Nitrogen to see if it holds pressure, I am not very familiar with that process so it will take some research but I understand that is the best way to check for leaks
Terrific video. Thank you so much! Great recommendation on buying the vacrometer for accuracy. Did you have any issues with evacuating your lines and your vacrometer fluctuating? I'm currently vacuuming my line set. The vacrometer will fluctuate but then stabilize below 1,000 MIC.
I saw a professional talking about this type of gauge. The fluctuation then settling down is normal.
@@needhelp2453 it did. I vacuumed my lines multiple times. The system works beautifully. Im installing a 2nd Mr Cool this summer.
Did you put Freon in the system? From what I understand in the video you just pull the vacuum and the open the schrader valves all the way.
On this system yes the outdoor unit is precharged
I know codes are different depending on where you live, but I just read that the electrical cable that leaves the outdoor unit and goes to the indoor unit has to be in rigid conduit once it leaves the line set cover. Is that not code where you live? I'm not sure here in TN, but it does seem like it would be a good idea.
Not that I am aware of, I know none of the professional installed ones have any conduit on that wire
is that a 1911 i see ? awesome video by the way did your system not come with the wall sleeve to put in where the line set goes through the wall
It is, And yes it came with it but Ryan chose to just spray foam it all that way it got out into the cavity, Hopefully we never have to remove it lol
Great video, but 2 questions... 1. Did the line set that came with the unit have the flared lines already? 2- did you have to add any freon? Thanks
Hi Donna, the lines came pre-flared and the outside unit came charged with all the freon that was required.
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 this video is saving my for many of the reasons people are mentioning. How do i know if my unit has the freon already in it? I have the Mr. cool Advantage 24K. I am ordering the guages today and vacuum
What would need to be done if the vacuum was not performed but the valves were opened?
Well the issue as I know it and I am far from a pro, is that the moisture in the lines will cause the equipment to fail over time. I think if this is the case one may want to hire some one to evacuate it, vacuam it down and recharge it but again I am far from a pro
I bought the 9000 btu version. It says 15amp 230v. Will a 2 pole 15amp breaker and 14/2 wire with ground work to power it? Also what disconnect box would.that need? Thanks your video is very helpful!
If its a North American version with 240v 60Hz then yes National Electrical Code says a 15 amp circuit needs 14 gauge wire and the Mini Split does not use a neutral so 14-2 with ground would work. As for disconnect, I really like the non fused style like I used with handle on the side
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 Thanks yeah that is the style of disconnect I am gonna get also. Thanks for the information.
I'm curious why you didn't use the included paper template?
I found it easier to lay it out with a tape measure personally
Hi,.. Is the line set directional?... That's to say.... R the connectors specific to the indoor /outdoor units? Mine came with no identifying marks to orient correctly.... Thanks.
no they are not directional
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 Hi,... and thanks for taking the time to reply. I hooked them up this after and seems to be working ok... "Your are correct sir!" either that or the 50/50 shot worked! BTW , I've got a yard grading project,... can I borrow your tractor?...please!
Did I miss when you charged the system with the R-410? All you did was "crack the valve" on the outdoor unit to 1-2psi, disconnected the vacuum guage, opened all the valves and then turned it on?
Yes, Most of the mini splits like this come precharged on the outside unit
I also live in a snow climate and want to install the O unit on brackets. Where did you find your brackets?
We got ours here ua-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbXJ4TjBFZUhjeFROdFl1VDFRazNKOGJyajFqd3xBQ3Jtc0ttbXRxQlpQbENVcFNXWEJxRU1tcVl1dnYtdGFIT3g1c1pBeEprU2xpdExpWGdHNjdhN3lEYTNXSGx1YTRQX2czMzB1bnRVQnFYQ2UycEJhLVlCaXhva1hRcUpreVROcmdEWS1KZXkwZEhJOVBHcDk0TQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ecomfort.com%2FRectorseal-WBB300%2Fp31087.html
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 thanks
Hello soon ill be buying me a 12000 btu MrCool 120v just wondering when u opened the top valve to let some refrigerant to 2 lbs in did u close the valve back or left it open in that position before opening both valves ?
I opened that to let a little pressure and then closed it, That way when I disconnected the gauges it is under pressure not vacuum
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 ohh ok thanks
I just purchased a non DIY 18k Mr. Cool unit for my garage. Watching your fantastic video I noticed in the beginning where you spoke about the black wire that connects the inside unit to the outside unit needs to be purchased? I have a gen 3 setup coming, I wasn’t told I needed that wire. Now I’m worried I need to purchase that as well?
It is just a 3 conductor wire you can use say 14-3 UF or 3 conductor 14 gauge SO cord I assume.
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 thank you sir I appreciate it.
3rd gens now come with the power cable.
@@skeptical_fuzz yeah they definitely do. I didn’t know so I purchased one on Amazon and ended up with a extra lol. The install went perfectly thanks to this helpful video. I’m actually working in my garage right now wrapping a Ford Focus RS nice and comfortable.
So you did not have to charge the unit as all the required refrigerant is in the outside unit? Some HVAC businesses will not touch these units so you could be out of luck if your install does not go well. I thought the warranty said these units had to be professionally installed?
Yes, like most brands like Fujitsu or Mitsubishi etc the outdoor unit comes precharged so all the technician has to do is check for leaks and evacuate them. As for warranty well that was a risk, we weighed but this unit complete was about $700 and comparatively the Fujitsu we had professionally installed cost us over $3,000. We made the decision to risk it on this one. You can purchase the DIY version for $500 more that has a warranty for DIY but then its $500 more lol
But how much 410a did you add? You only added 2ish pounds so you had a positive pressure. You didn't show the steps for the pressures you need when everything is up and running.
Tim, The outside unit comes precharged so you don't add any.
We opened the Valves before vacuuming down. 😩 Can you please tell us what we need to do now?
Well I am not a licensed HVAC tech but my gut tells me you need to hire a pro to come evacuate the refrigerant, Vacuum it down and them charge it with the proper amount of refrigerant..
That is what I thought I would have to do. Thank you.
How much refrigerant did you have to put in the system?
The outdoor unit is pre filled with refrigerant, We didn't have to add any
So does the unit come with refrigerant in it already or do I have to get it put in?
The refrigerant is allready inside the inside unit.
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 awesome! So all have have to pay for is getting it vacuumed. I didn't realize the "advantage" line isn't the same as the diy line. They should call it the disadvantage line.
@@seapanther53 Yeah I think the only difference is one has quick connects on the line set and one has flared fittings. Of course the quick connects mean it doesn't have to be vacuumed but you can cut the line set to the desired length making a cleaner install.
Are you still happy with the mr cool advantage series? I thought I was ordering the diy but I received 3) 18k advantage series. But I’m just gonna order a vacuum pump and install myself
So far it's been working very well for us. Still installed and we really like the remote access feature.
Go for it. Way better to know how to do it and have the tools.
I'm not cutting the lines. I'll snake them down the inside of the wall and insulate it all.I'm actually going to run the lines before the drywall goes in! I gutted and reinsulated that wall so it'll be easy.
Makes sense, That is what we did but on the outside. It is on the side facing the woods so some extra line didnt bother me
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 I was rethinking this and it would be a bit more complicated than I initially thought. I'd have to hang sheetrock where the head goes and leave below open so I can snake the lines, then when everything is connected can finish the drywall.
I just bought the Advantage Gen 3 12,000 btu.But mine runs off 110 volts.So that tells me I don't need the outside disconnect.Mine is not the DIY,so I'm gonna have to do the vacumn part,only thing I'm worried about.
I believe you still need/want the outside disconnect it just needs to be a single pole instead of a 2 pole
I thought this was one of the reasons it runs of 115volt.No need of running a master discount box on outside ?
@@randyragland9218 I dont want to say for certain but my experience in the electrical world and NEC tells me you still require a service disconnect within so many feet of the device, You may want to consult a local electrician in your area but for our area a service disconnect is required regardless of system voltage on anything hardwired like this
Is there a diagram to hook this up through a master disconnect that I can download?
@@randyragland9218 yes National Electrical Code requires any AC to have a disconnect located within like 3 ft of the outside unit. There should also be a service outlet. You can kind of get away without the outlet but not the disconnect.
El arma que traes en el cinturón es para el “apriete” de las tuercas? Te recomiendo tomar un jarabe de cebolla y aceite de ricino para tu problema de garganta-nariz.
why not just re flare the line set and get rid of of excess tubing?
Mostly due to the fact Ryan was nervous he wouldn't do a good job and would have a leak, but we were also told by our local installer who did our fujitsu that every model has a minimum length as well so as it is on the back side of the shop, we chose to just use up the excess
Why did you wire it like that? It's not stated in the instructions
Can you be more specific, what part of the wiring are you thinking we may not have done correctly?
@@aroundthehomesteadwithsuer3497 i’m only asking if wiring the indoor unit 123 only needs to match the outside unit 123. As I referenced videos and the installation guide, I noticed everything I saw had units that came with a cord already attached. I noticed my unit had a cord just like yours. It caught me off guard because every diagram speaks about blue wire, yellow wire and obviously a red and a black, but they would not specify anything about what goes where. Every video and everything I saw told me that the wire should be labeled and my wires definitely were not labeled. if you could just verify matching the 123 indoor and outdoor than I think I’m completely good. It was a setback for me yesterday.
looks like a 45 on his hip to keep anyone from stealing the unit. :)
Great video. At anytime did you have to shoot the Mr. Cool unit????
It remained compliant throughout the installation so greater force was deemed unnecessary
installing a ac with a gun jajajajaja
Do I see a gun on his right? You must be in Texas
Not Texas, Although I want to visit there and spend a winter some time) we are in the woods of Maine
70 pounds on your side and 150 on the side that your wife lifted😮
Hah well it isnt actually that heavy luckilly.
Can you please provide advice on this matter?
I installed a 3-zone MRCOOL DIY 24k BTU in my house, but one of the lines is a couple of feet short to the compressor. Instead of buying a coupler and another set of 16 ft. line sets to connect my original 25 ft. line set, potentially introducing more problems with oil not draining properly, I would like to cut some extra copper material of the longer line set and braze it with the copper of the shorter line set.
I don't need to flare the ends because I'm still using the QuickConnect connectors of the line set, I'm only using the extra copper.
Because the line set is pre-charged and vacuumed with refrigerant, after connecting the line set to the condenser, can I still perform the same steps you did, i.e. vacuum the line set and ensure it's under 500 microns?
There's no added steps I need to perform, even though these are pre-charged line sets?
Thank you.
Not sure personally, I think the issue you may have is the DIY style has quick couplings and I am not sure if you can still pull a vacuam? I would guess that the line set is not actually charged but if it was it would be a minimal amount so in theory this idea may work but I think if it where me I would by the extension set with couplings