This was a helpful video. I just bought this this telescope before finding out that it's a Bird-Jones design. Instead of returning it I will invest time and patience to make it a decent instrument for casual use. There are numerous negative reviews about this product, but I wonder if the criticism is fair. True, it may not be adequate for photography but collimation along with a properly selected eyepiece should give a good result for basic viewing. Thanks for posting this.
I'm glad it helped. I saw the negative reviews as well. I have photographed the sun and the moon with very good results. The mount is solid and you can put a large DSLR camera in the lens holder with no problems. There is a trade off by making the telescope shorter which is where the Bird Jones design comes in. I have found that there is an acceptable balance that can be obtained by avoiding large barlows such as 3X and sticking with 10mm to 23mm eyepieces. You can see Saturn and Jupiter clearly if you do this. I can see Jupiter's cloud bands and I think that's pretty good for a telescope in this price range.
@@MyEngineeringProjects Definitely! Two nights ago I was able to get a nice view of Saturn and Titan just after sunset. The eyepiece used at the time yielded x58 magnification. It wasn't strong enough to show the Cassini Division in the rings but the image, albeit small, was bright and clear. At first I thought it was a background star, but I'm fairly certain that it was Titan some distance off to the right at roughly the 2 o'clock position. It is no wonder that Saturn is a favourite target for so many. It almost looks like some kind of ornament hanging in the void. Seeing it is a treat every time. As mentioned in an earlier post, this telescope has been given a bad reputation. True, some of it is deserved. My biggest beef is that the included eyepieces and barlow are practically useless. My first move was to junk them and buy a couple of halfway decent plossl eyepieces. They were in the $20 to $30 price range, so not expensive. The finder scope is a headache to align too, but once it's aligned just keep the caps off, no big deal. Then after viewing this video I bought a collimator, and followed along step by step. A less expensive collimation tool could have been purchased, but I wanted a laser to be sure of the alignment. So it would seem that the low price tag of this telescope is offset by the need to get good eyepieces and a collimation tool. So be it, usually that's the case with many other telescopes anyway. Additionally I made some slight modifications of my own. I made a simple plumb bob out of an eyelet screw, thread and washer. It hangs from the bottom of the knob that secures the equatorial mount to the tripod. It isn't super exact, but close enough. It's removed once I'm satisfied that the telescope is level. Also I drilled and tapped the end of the threaded bolt on the accessory tray. This makes it possible to screw in a hook in order to hang a weight of some kind under the tray. It doesn't have to be much. I use an old set of binoculars to hang underneath. This seems to remove some of the vibration by making the telescope less top heavy. I say all this because in some weird way I feel compelled to be an advocate for this telescope. Not to hide its flaws and shortcomings, but to make known that with some effort it can be used with success. Anyway thanks for your help! I'll stay tuned for future content. -cheers
@@jameswilkinson259 I agree about the finder scope. I found it to be terrible. It's possible to fiddle with it and get it set, but wow don't bump it. If so, you have to start all over. I don't use their barlow or eyepieces and instead use my own . The included equipment is ok for the moon and the sun, but sub par for planets.
@@MyEngineeringProjects What do you think about using a 2x Omni Celestron with this scope (I bought one)? I am new to telescopes... Would there be any use for the 2x barlow?
It's a 5" mirror, so I took a ruler and cardboard. marked a center point on the cardboard, then measured out 2.5" from that point in many directions, so I had the outline of a circle. Next, I cut it out with a razor/scissors but leaving a little handle sticking out. Then I drilled a reasonably large hole in the middle. Finally, I pulled out the mirror, lined up the cardboard and made a dot right down the middle.
Hey there, thanks for the great video! Some very frustrated person that bought this very popular telescope just ran out of patience and gave it to me. The 4mm eyepiece is missing, the 20mm rubber eyecover is ripped off, a locking screw is missing and also a rubber ring (just one lol).... But, it's free. Since Im also new to astronomy but super interested I decide to invest into fixing it. Based on your video, I bought M5 thumbscrews to replace the collimation ones, installed springs instead of the rubbers, bought a cheap, but ok 25mm lens and finally a laser collimator. I have marked the center of the primary (2x4" length of painter tape marked at center and draw 90d lines from center marks. Intersection means center), then removed the corrector lens in the focuser to collimate, gotta say Im sure I did a good job as everything seems centered. I did forget the lens orientation (concave towards sec mirror or eyepiece?) But in any case, I just cant get anything to focus. Without an eyepiece, I can see perfectly in details the distant treeline that is a mile away. But then with 25mm lens, a white wash. Flip the corrector lens, same. Remove the corrector lens, same. 2x or 3x barlow + 25mm... same. Focuser up or down, nothing. Im hooked, but with everything everybody is saying about this telescope, Im wondering if it's just a dud. Any idea? Cant wait to buy you a coffee while we discuss this :)
@@MyEngineeringProjects No. First thing I did when I got it was trying to see something. Anything. So I can have a starting point and get some idea of how much each step would improve the telescope. The only improvement I've seen are a clean primary and secondary mirrors and what seems to be a pretty good collimation. Adding the springs did add a bit of distance between primary and secondary. I'd say no more than 3mm.
ok that's important to know. The springs adding 3mm should not cause this issue since you would have enough room to compensate with the focuser. It really sounds like the corrector lens below the focuser has a problem. It has to be in the correct position or else you won't be able to focus.
@@MyEngineeringProjects Well, in a crazy turn of events and in total desperation, because flipping the corrector lens didn't really change anything, I ended up flipping the primary mirror. And it worked. I never noticed in your video before but when you mark the center, it is on the mirrored surface of the lens, while mine was on the glass side. Because I assumed it was already in its proper orientation I never really paid attention to this detail. When I removed the lens itself and saw underneath tons of fingerprints (on the mirror side), I immediately came back here to confirm my primary was in fact, backwards. Cleaned it, flipped it, screwed it, didnt even collimate and I was able to focus on a cell tower 2.3km away. Thanks for your quick replies and for your video which helped confirm where my issue was... Subscribed. 😊
Well that's really good news. I remember you said that the image was all white and that now makes sense. Since it was flipped, it was scattering the image instead of concentrating it onto the secondary mirror.
This was helpful, thanks. QQ - How do you remove the black marker dot in the center of the large mirror at the end after everything has been properly aligned? Assume this would have to be removed to avoid impacting image quality.
That's a great question. The reflector telescope design uses a small secondary mirror in the middle of the telescope. No light can pass this from the sky, so that means there is a small blind spot built into the design. As long as the mark on the primary mirror is smaller than the size of the secondary mirror, you will not notice it there at all.
Thanks for the video, can you tell me if the laser comes with the telescope or not? Or do I have to buy one separately? I purchased this for my son before seeing all the negative reviews lol, and haven't taken it out of the box as of yet. Thanks.
If you leave it in the laser will not work correctly. I tried it this way but it won't work. By taking it out you can accurately use the laser to get the alignment right.
I don't understand the symbols in the question, but it goes in the reverse order it was removed. I don't have this telescope anymore so I cannot check the lens.
Generally there is not much of a shift when you move onto aligning the primary mirror. If it is no longer in the center, then yes you need to go back to the secondary mirror and adjust again until the laser is in the center of the primary mirror. As the telescope alignment gets better with each iteration, any corrections will be smaller and easier to do.
@@MyEngineeringProjectsfollow up question. Should the rubber rings always be touching the primary mirror? Mine are not, Ive been attempting to collimate this telescope for nearly a month and am completely lost with it any help would be much appreciated!
Yes they have to be. Normally scopes use springs to maintain a constant tension. I think it would help you to see a simpler collimation procedure first and then go back to your telescope. Check out this section of my homemade telescope where you can see how most telescopes are collimated. ua-cam.com/video/jCWE1QRoIzU/v-deo.html
I posted a link but it's a short so for whatever reason clicking on it does not work. If you go to my channel page under shorts, look for Moon First Quarter Clip Showing up to 180X #shorts and you will see this telescope in action.
If your primary mirror is so far out of alignment you have to change parts when you get it, you should return it. If it goes that far out of alignment after using it, you might want to be nicer to it. I'm surprised there is no alignment circle. You don't need to move all 3 screws on the secondary mirror, the center screw should tighten it after adjusting two small screws.
@@MyEngineeringProjects Have you tried the pinhole in the lens cap over the eyepiece? It's a good way to keep it from getting too far out if you don't have the laser beams handy.
You can use either collimator that I have in the description. The first one is the one I used for the tutorial and I'm really happy with it. I also provided an alternative option.
Only if the image gets distorted, or blurry. Mine was ok when I bought it but I tried to correct a mild aberration and it got worse. This is why I switched to a laser collimator to get it accurately aligned.
The video shows you using a SvBONY allignment laser but in the description you put Orion LaserMate Deluxe II Laser Collimator. What did you actually use? This is one of the reasons I don't like using UA-cam videos.
This is so great. I collimated it, but now when I look at the moon or Jupiter and other planets, it blurry around the edges. Now I can’t see any stupid planets. What a waste of money
SO if I get into this hobby I have to fuck with all of this? I wanted to get the the 127eq power seeker, but I have to align stuff myself? Doesnt it come out of the box ready to use?
@krishkhushalani8023 The telescope is designed to use the Bird Jones lens so that probably won't work. It's pretty easy to put it back in after it's collimated.
Best video yet for 127eq
Thanks. Glad it was helpful.
the only better video would be one that tells you not to buy this telescope
This was a helpful video. I just bought this this telescope before finding out that it's a Bird-Jones design. Instead of returning it I will invest time and patience to make it a decent instrument for casual use. There are numerous negative reviews about this product, but I wonder if the criticism is fair. True, it may not be adequate for photography but collimation along with a properly selected eyepiece should give a good result for basic viewing. Thanks for posting this.
I'm glad it helped. I saw the negative reviews as well. I have photographed the sun and the moon with very good results. The mount is solid and you can put a large DSLR camera in the lens holder with no problems.
There is a trade off by making the telescope shorter which is where the Bird Jones design comes in. I have found that there is an acceptable balance that can be obtained by avoiding large barlows such as 3X and sticking with 10mm to 23mm eyepieces. You can see Saturn and Jupiter clearly if you do this. I can see Jupiter's cloud bands and I think that's pretty good for a telescope in this price range.
@@MyEngineeringProjects Definitely! Two nights ago I was able to get a nice view of Saturn and Titan just after sunset. The eyepiece used at the time yielded x58 magnification. It wasn't strong enough to show the Cassini Division in the rings but the image, albeit small, was bright and clear. At first I thought it was a background star, but I'm fairly certain that it was Titan some distance off to the right at roughly the 2 o'clock position. It is no wonder that Saturn is a favourite target for so many. It almost looks like some kind of ornament hanging in the void. Seeing it is a treat every time.
As mentioned in an earlier post, this telescope has been given a bad reputation. True, some of it is deserved. My biggest beef is that the included eyepieces and barlow are practically useless. My first move was to junk them and buy a couple of halfway decent plossl eyepieces. They were in the $20 to $30 price range, so not expensive. The finder scope is a headache to align too, but once it's aligned just keep the caps off, no big deal. Then after viewing this video I bought a collimator, and followed along step by step. A less expensive collimation tool could have been purchased, but I wanted a laser to be sure of the alignment. So it would seem that the low price tag of this telescope is offset by the need to get good eyepieces and a collimation tool. So be it, usually that's the case with many other telescopes anyway. Additionally I made some slight modifications of my own. I made a simple plumb bob out of an eyelet screw, thread and washer. It hangs from the bottom of the knob that secures the equatorial mount to the tripod. It isn't super exact, but close enough. It's removed once I'm satisfied that the telescope is level. Also I drilled and tapped the end of the threaded bolt on the accessory tray. This makes it possible to screw in a hook in order to hang a weight of some kind under the tray. It doesn't have to be much. I use an old set of binoculars to hang underneath. This seems to remove some of the vibration by making the telescope less top heavy.
I say all this because in some weird way I feel compelled to be an advocate for this telescope. Not to hide its flaws and shortcomings, but to make known that with some effort it can be used with success. Anyway thanks for your help! I'll stay tuned for future content. -cheers
@@jameswilkinson259 I agree about the finder scope. I found it to be terrible. It's possible to fiddle with it and get it set, but wow don't bump it. If so, you have to start all over. I don't use their barlow or eyepieces and instead use my own . The included equipment is ok for the moon and the sun, but sub par for planets.
@@MyEngineeringProjects What do you think about using a 2x Omni Celestron with this scope (I bought one)? I am new to telescopes... Would there be any use for the 2x barlow?
barlows are handy to get in closer, but they do reduce the image quality, at least all the ones that I have used. I have not used the 3x Omni
Thanks!
Wow thank you so much for the Super Thanks! I appreciate it. Very glad to have helped you resolve the issue with your Celestron.
It's a 5" mirror, so I took a ruler and cardboard. marked a center point on the cardboard, then measured out 2.5" from that point in many directions, so I had the outline of a circle. Next, I cut it out with a razor/scissors but leaving a little handle sticking out. Then I drilled a reasonably large hole in the middle. Finally, I pulled out the mirror, lined up the cardboard and made a dot right down the middle.
That's a great idea. Thanks for sharing.
Też tak zrobiłem.
Hey there, thanks for the great video! Some very frustrated person that bought this very popular telescope just ran out of patience and gave it to me. The 4mm eyepiece is missing, the 20mm rubber eyecover is ripped off, a locking screw is missing and also a rubber ring (just one lol).... But, it's free. Since Im also new to astronomy but super interested I decide to invest into fixing it. Based on your video, I bought M5 thumbscrews to replace the collimation ones, installed springs instead of the rubbers, bought a cheap, but ok 25mm lens and finally a laser collimator. I have marked the center of the primary (2x4" length of painter tape marked at center and draw 90d lines from center marks. Intersection means center), then removed the corrector lens in the focuser to collimate, gotta say Im sure I did a good job as everything seems centered. I did forget the lens orientation (concave towards sec mirror or eyepiece?) But in any case, I just cant get anything to focus. Without an eyepiece, I can see perfectly in details the distant treeline that is a mile away. But then with 25mm lens, a white wash. Flip the corrector lens, same. Remove the corrector lens, same. 2x or 3x barlow + 25mm... same. Focuser up or down, nothing. Im hooked, but with everything everybody is saying about this telescope, Im wondering if it's just a dud.
Any idea? Cant wait to buy you a coffee while we discuss this :)
Well I’m not sure. Before you collimated it could you see anything through the lens at a distance like a tree?
@@MyEngineeringProjects No. First thing I did when I got it was trying to see something. Anything. So I can have a starting point and get some idea of how much each step would improve the telescope. The only improvement I've seen are a clean primary and secondary mirrors and what seems to be a pretty good collimation. Adding the springs did add a bit of distance between primary and secondary. I'd say no more than 3mm.
ok that's important to know. The springs adding 3mm should not cause this issue since you would have enough room to compensate with the focuser. It really sounds like the corrector lens below the focuser has a problem. It has to be in the correct position or else you won't be able to focus.
@@MyEngineeringProjects Well, in a crazy turn of events and in total desperation, because flipping the corrector lens didn't really change anything, I ended up flipping the primary mirror. And it worked. I never noticed in your video before but when you mark the center, it is on the mirrored surface of the lens, while mine was on the glass side. Because I assumed it was already in its proper orientation I never really paid attention to this detail. When I removed the lens itself and saw underneath tons of fingerprints (on the mirror side), I immediately came back here to confirm my primary was in fact, backwards. Cleaned it, flipped it, screwed it, didnt even collimate and I was able to focus on a cell tower 2.3km away.
Thanks for your quick replies and for your video which helped confirm where my issue was... Subscribed. 😊
Well that's really good news. I remember you said that the image was all white and that now makes sense. Since it was flipped, it was scattering the image instead of concentrating it onto the secondary mirror.
This was helpful, thanks. QQ - How do you remove the black marker dot in the center of the large mirror at the end after everything has been properly aligned? Assume this would have to be removed to avoid impacting image quality.
That's a great question.
The reflector telescope design uses a small secondary mirror in the middle of the telescope. No light can pass this from the sky, so that means there is a small blind spot built into the design. As long as the mark on the primary mirror is smaller than the size of the secondary mirror, you will not notice it there at all.
Thanks for the video, can you tell me if the laser comes with the telescope or not? Or do I have to buy one separately? I purchased this for my son before seeing all the negative reviews lol, and haven't taken it out of the box as of yet. Thanks.
It's a separate item. Note that all reflectors need to be collimated. For a budget telescope it is decent but not perfect.
What was the point in taking the lens out that's held in place by that nut you need a tool for? Do you put that back in?
If you leave it in the laser will not work correctly. I tried it this way but it won't work. By taking it out you can accurately use the laser to get the alignment right.
@@MyEngineeringProjects I didn't take off the corrector. I was collimating my telescope on a star when it was out of focus
I have read about collimating on a star but have not tried it myself. Did it work for you?
@@MyEngineeringProjects Yes, I managed to do it, the star turned into a dot
Well that sounds great. I'm glad it worked.
And also when im adjusting the 3 screws on the front of the telescope, i look at the primary mirror and the red dot looks like a rectangle!!
Which way does the correct lens go? “) | 👀” or “| ( 👀”
I don't understand the symbols in the question, but it goes in the reverse order it was removed. I don't have this telescope anymore so I cannot check the lens.
After aligning the primary mirror should the laser point still be in the center or the primary mirror? What do I do if its not anymore?
Generally there is not much of a shift when you move onto aligning the primary mirror. If it is no longer in the center, then yes you need to go back to the secondary mirror and adjust again until the laser is in the center of the primary mirror. As the telescope alignment gets better with each iteration, any corrections will be smaller and easier to do.
@@MyEngineeringProjectsfollow up question. Should the rubber rings always be touching the primary mirror? Mine are not, Ive been attempting to collimate this telescope for nearly a month and am completely lost with it any help would be much appreciated!
Yes they have to be. Normally scopes use springs to maintain a constant tension. I think it would help you to see a simpler collimation procedure first and then go back to your telescope. Check out this section of my homemade telescope where you can see how most telescopes are collimated. ua-cam.com/video/jCWE1QRoIzU/v-deo.html
When im screwing the primary mirror, the red dot doesnt move at all, does anyone know why?
Very very helpful. Can you take pics and do a UA-cam vid on the results? Thanks
Sure thing. Here you go ua-cam.com/users/shortsQ5U4LAfBDws?feature=share
I posted a link but it's a short so for whatever reason clicking on it does not work. If you go to my channel page under shorts, look for Moon First Quarter Clip Showing up to 180X #shorts and you will see this telescope in action.
@@MyEngineeringProjects ok thx
If your primary mirror is so far out of alignment you have to change parts when you get it, you should return it. If it goes that far out of alignment after using it, you might want to be nicer to it. I'm surprised there is no alignment circle. You don't need to move all 3 screws on the secondary mirror, the center screw should tighten it after adjusting two small screws.
Mine came out of alignment when I attempted to correct a mild aberration. I did not have the collimator at the time but without the tool it got worse.
@@MyEngineeringProjects Have you tried the pinhole in the lens cap over the eyepiece? It's a good way to keep it from getting too far out if you don't have the laser beams handy.
Yes, but it was not accurate enough. Every attempt to correct it made it worse so i used a laser collimator instead.
Dumb question… the collimatior on the link is the one for this model?
You can use either collimator that I have in the description. The first one is the one I used for the tutorial and I'm really happy with it. I also provided an alternative option.
Is collimating really necessary if you buy a brand new one?
In general no, it should be fine. All reflectors need periodic collimation to fine tune the alignment.
Does the dot on the primary mirror come off?
In my case, no. There is a blind spot on the mirror due to the secondary mirror so it does not reduce or affect the image.
k@@MyEngineeringProjects
When will I know I need to collimate my telescope? I have the same one as you do
Only if the image gets distorted, or blurry. Mine was ok when I bought it but I tried to correct a mild aberration and it got worse. This is why I switched to a laser collimator to get it accurately aligned.
great video
Thanks. Glad it helped
The video shows you using a SvBONY allignment laser but in the description you put Orion LaserMate Deluxe II Laser Collimator. What did you actually use? This is one of the reasons I don't like using UA-cam videos.
SvBony and it is in the description as well. Choices are ok.
2:23 i tried to twist that, but it didnt budge
It's best to use a spanner wrench. I was lucky to get mine loose.
I put a link to one that should work in the video description.
I don't know why it's not coming with the central spot 😒
Is it not going to the center of the main mirror or the center of the collimator target?
This is so great. I collimated it, but now when I look at the moon or Jupiter and other planets, it blurry around the edges. Now I can’t see any stupid planets. What a waste of money
Anyone else think he sounds like Todd Howard?
SO if I get into this hobby I have to fuck with all of this? I wanted to get the the 127eq power seeker, but I have to align stuff myself? Doesnt it come out of the box ready to use?
It comes ready to view in most cases. However reflectors can get out of collimation and if that occurs you will need to align the mirrors.
@@MyEngineeringProjectscan u just remove the bird Jones that is remove the inbuilt Barlow and use it ??
@krishkhushalani8023 The telescope is designed to use the Bird Jones lens so that probably won't work. It's pretty easy to put it back in after it's collimated.
@@MyEngineeringProjects can I use a 0.5x focal reducer on it will it work
Most eyepiece focal reducers work with all telescopes.
What a mess!
I wish they had made it easier