Simple Green works great! However, when you are lax about it like me, sometimes the pitch from cutting pine sits on the blade too long and causes a problem. Harsh chemicals compensate for my laziness.
Thanks for your diligence in finding products that works on your tools. For my table saw I followed your lead on using progressively finer grit sanding discs. Then a couple coats of Fluid Film and paste wax (what I had on hand). Two weeks in and still rust free....relative humidity has been 65% - 75%. I used the sandpaper method on my table saw only because that's the only cast iron table that I have that I've neglected. The bandsaw and jointer are newer and, so far, un-neglected.
As a machinist (ret) in the aircraft industry for forty two years, any time I could get my hand on a Boeing oil of any kind, the job was so much easier. Its ten thumbs up,
I used the Rust Free on a Jointer and a Planer that I restored. The cast iron was completed covered with rust. I used a green scratch pad and it took the rust right off. I had to go over it again to remove the rust stains and polish the surface with a 0000 steel wool pad. Both look brand new and I use it about twice a year to clean the surface. I use the T-9 and I have never seen any rust on the surfaces at all. Blade and Bit cleaner is awesome. I have collected a number of old blades that I have cleaned and did a quick sharpening and they cut like new. I love the stuff!
Yeah man... Been using T9 for years and it has never let me down. Had some tools in cold storage for months and no rust. Now I keep the shop dehumidified. Rust free works really well too. Will have to try the blade and bit cleaner!
On my saw blades and router bits I use Greased Lightning, a household cleaner. I spray it on and watch the pitch lift away. What little bit remains comes of using a toothbrush. Then I rinse in water as hot as it comes out of the tap, which makes the blade too hot to handle. It dries in seconds and I'm back in business. For router bits I have a small baby food jar I keep half full of Greased Lightning. I drop the bit into the solution for a minute or so and then give it the toothbrush treatment along with the hot water rinse. Works like a charm and it very inexpensive.
On the can it says it can be used on bits, but it doesn't say blades. I think I'd worry that since it's wax based, it would just melt off the blade into the wood.
I use methyl hydrate to clean blades. Cheap and easily obtainable. A lid from a 20 liter food service pail will hold a 10" blade perfectly along with enough chemical to clean it. A quick brush with a toothbrush helps if you are in a hurry. Others have used gel hand sanitizer to do the same thing. No lid required.
I am loving this series, with being in the UK we don't get humidity like you guys in the states but it does cause concern. Quite by chance I left some silicone bags (the ones that get put in packaging for moisture), after about a month they had collected quite a lot of moisture. I am not saying they are a cure to stopping rust, far from it but they can help. I have about 6 of them dotted around my 8x3m garage. Perhaps these in addition may help some folks, perhaps not, just a notion I thought I would share. Thank you so much for your time in all this.
I've used T-9 for yrs. I reapply every 2 months or when needed. Found it flawless and doesn't mess up the cut wood with silicone or other dinosaur grease (for glue up and paint).
I use Simple Green to clean my blades. A 10-15 minute soak is all that is needed, then I use an old toothbrush to clean the pitch off.
Simple Green works great! However, when you are lax about it like me, sometimes the pitch from cutting pine sits on the blade too long and causes a problem. Harsh chemicals compensate for my laziness.
Thanks for your diligence in finding products that works on your tools. For my table saw I followed your lead on using progressively finer grit sanding discs. Then a couple coats of Fluid Film and paste wax (what I had on hand). Two weeks in and still rust free....relative humidity has been 65% - 75%. I used the sandpaper method on my table saw only because that's the only cast iron table that I have that I've neglected. The bandsaw and jointer are newer and, so far, un-neglected.
As a machinist (ret) in the aircraft industry for forty two years, any time I could get my hand on a Boeing oil of any kind, the job was so much easier. Its ten thumbs up,
I used the Rust Free on a Jointer and a Planer that I restored. The cast iron was completed covered with rust. I used a green scratch pad and it took the rust right off. I had to go over it again to remove the rust stains and polish the surface with a 0000 steel wool pad. Both look brand new and I use it about twice a year to clean the surface. I use the T-9 and I have never seen any rust on the surfaces at all. Blade and Bit cleaner is awesome. I have collected a number of old blades that I have cleaned and did a quick sharpening and they cut like new. I love the stuff!
Yeah man... Been using T9 for years and it has never let me down. Had some tools in cold storage for months and no rust. Now I keep the shop dehumidified. Rust free works really well too. Will have to try the blade and bit cleaner!
What about the ceramic coating as they used on car finished
Why not use vinegar and a scothbrite
Rob, good information, thanks for sharing.
On my saw blades and router bits I use Greased Lightning, a household cleaner. I spray it on and watch the pitch lift away. What little bit remains comes of using a toothbrush. Then I rinse in water as hot as it comes out of the tap, which makes the blade too hot to handle. It dries in seconds and I'm back in business. For router bits I have a small baby food jar I keep half full of Greased Lightning. I drop the bit into the solution for a minute or so and then give it the toothbrush treatment along with the hot water rinse. Works like a charm and it very inexpensive.
I love Greased Lightning! But I've never tried it on my tools. Looks like I have another thing to try for cleaning blades. Thanks for the tip!
Great info, thanks
nice tip .
I wonder if you can use the t9 on the blade to stop the build up of the pitch
On the can it says it can be used on bits, but it doesn't say blades. I think I'd worry that since it's wax based, it would just melt off the blade into the wood.
I use methyl hydrate to clean blades. Cheap and easily obtainable. A lid from a 20 liter food service pail will hold a 10" blade perfectly along with enough chemical to clean it. A quick brush with a toothbrush helps if you are in a hurry.
Others have used gel hand sanitizer to do the same thing. No lid required.
I appreciate the experimentation and the advice. Anybody ever told you that you sound like Jeff Bridges?
I am loving this series, with being in the UK we don't get humidity like you guys in the states but it does cause concern.
Quite by chance I left some silicone bags (the ones that get put in packaging for moisture), after about a month they had collected quite a lot of moisture. I am not saying they are a cure to stopping rust, far from it but they can help.
I have about 6 of them dotted around my 8x3m garage. Perhaps these in addition may help some folks, perhaps not, just a notion I thought I would share.
Thank you so much for your time in all this.
I've used T-9 for yrs. I reapply every 2 months or when needed. Found it flawless and doesn't mess up the cut wood with silicone or other dinosaur grease (for glue up and paint).
Thanks for spending your money on these products to demonstrate rust removal and cast iron slickness. Now, all I need is time in my shop.
Good, fair video. I'll be picking up that blade cleaner