I have made a couple of videos about old versus new axes and I wanted to clearly summarise why I recommend new axes for chopping and old axes for splitting
Ben, I have the highest regard for your channel and your no-nonsense, very educational delivery. Incredibly helpful. Thank you. Oh -- and this vid in particular, a topic I searched for and, when I saw yours, immediately chose it from the others. Dead on. Confirmed my own ideas on this, having struggled with "vintage" heads I've purchased and been gravely disappointed with. But you did also give me a bit of "redemption" -- never thought about dedicating my worn, beaten heads to splitting.
Nice take on old Vs New👍🇺🇸Quality Vintage Axes in clean usable condition are getting more scarce,- But There’s still a bunch of good Vintage in America , but they will dry up in time. Nice old Swedish axes can be had in the states. Old German axes too!
Where i live in Spain i have to go to ebay, and prices are going up and there are lots of crap or you have to pay more for the shipping plus customs than the axe head you're buying....I would like to find a good one, but for the price, i prefer going for a thrusted hardware store basque (1,5 kg with rought finish but good steel and chopping profile for about 60 € or a 2,5 kg splitting one for 80 € shipping included ...)
In the U.S., unless you find a bargain at a garage sale for $5, you're probably better off buying new (especially Council Tools, which are still fairly reasonable here). Ebay and the information highway have inflated prices through the roof for almost anything vintage.
@@benscottwoodchopper not sure exactly why, but by far the most common I see around here is 3.5lb. on a 36" handle, usually a Dayton or Michigan pattern.
Here in Australia there are still a lot of great vintage axes around (although the prices have gone up a lot recently). I use and like Hults, but compared to an old Hytest or Plumb Tassie with an intact bit, they don't chop or split our timber as well. Also new European axes are quite expensive here so it's possible to restore a Hytest Craftsman for less than or the same as the cost of a brand new Hults Bruk. But the way the vintage prices are inflating, that may not be the case much longer.
Spot on mate. I've scored a few old hults agdors and daytons, love em (my most used is a 2.75 Dayton, followed by a 4lb agdor) but a decent Tassie in good nick is a better allrounder I think.
Yes old axes have gone way up thanks to everyone thinking everything old is priceless. I have been able to get a few vintage axes for reasonable prices and they are far better than my fiskars. The only newer axe i like is my council tool boy's axe. I also just got done refurbishing a true temper flint edge kelly works. Axe was at the dump and i got the new handle from the amish for $14.
I own about 200 axes, of which about 12 are modern. an axe fanatic, collector and restorer, and frequent bush-crafter who uses axes of all sizes with great regularity as well as I burn wood in my house and hand cut all my firewood, including all of my tree falling by axe, I am no stranger to the axe world :) I can appreciate your opinions, and certainly a newer axe is the better choice for the novice or inexperienced at correcting old damaged bevels and edges. BUT I will strongly disagree with you about steel quality. You pretty much have to go back to pre-1960s to find axes made from 100% true virgin steel. After about the 1950s almost everything produced has SOME inferior material in it. for ME personally my greatest reason for preferring vintage axes to USE is BECAUSE of their superior steel quality. about 95% of my axe use is with very old axes (pre-1950s). And to this day, the only axes I have ever used that have received any bit damage during normal use, only hitting wood, are with 3 of my modern swedish axes . Yep this is absolutely true. Older steel IS superior. I wish I had the link to a video I saw in the USA where someone placed a modern axe head and a 70 year old axe head into a high compression electronic vice, clamped at the top of the poll and the bit edge. at almost 9000 lbs pressure the vintage axe heads eye finally gave way and the eye folded like a piece of paper, but the bit stayed straight and true. But with barely 3600 lb pressure the modern axe heads bit curled and snapped off. granted I dont think it was a swedish axe, but the point was well made. my best performing falling axes I own which hold their sharp edge very well (and trust me mine are sharp :), are my Gransfors Bruks Black king from the 1920s, my 1950s Swedish Kolifors, my American made Kelly axe (pre-true temper 1930), my 1940s Brades 3 lber and a handful of very old Germans. My 1873 HH Stricker is killer too (yes its from 1873 ! ) they are all unbeatably great steel that holds its edge better than any of my 12 modern axes which are all swedish or german. I still love my modern axes too, just their steel quality isnt quite as bulletproof. good review though.
From my experience i find the steel doesnt matter that much. Swedish steel is overhyped, definitely seen the most breaks with them. I wouldnt judge modern steel totally on swedish. In any case it makes little difference to actually getting work done from my experience. Also had some vintage axes break. Tuatahi is an excellent example of what is possible with modern steel technology. A big issue is finding nice weights of vintage, easier to find 4lb to 6lb than nice useful 2.5 to 3.5lb at least in the UK. In short i think everyone should start with a new axe, easier to hand file and learn on. Wetterlings EX, old Elwells sometimes need a belt sander to reprofile they are that hard
@@benscottwoodchopper I totally agree with you on those points. And yes different axes with be available and unavailable in different places. Totally agreed that anyone without a lot of experience should start new. my personal first choice would be though to find a well restored vintage axe first :) Im an older guy and I restore and sell axes on the side and my dream would be to open a small workshop teaching anyone who wanted to learn how to restore axes and make handles from scratch as I do. would be great fun and a joy to help others learn the craft. having said that, neither of us has mentioned modern Ox Head axes from Germany and I find them to be by far the best modern steel. STHL chainsaw sellers sell Ox Head under their own branding. worth a look cause they are also much cheaper option than swedish . Cheers :)
Here in Canada if you live in a place that has logging operations axes are pretty easy to find. They tend to be in decent shape and a no name vintage axe head can be had for $10 or $15 . The prices are kinda nutty here in southern Ontario, guys want $50 for a no name bit that is pretty much just a stub. Other than that its just mystery Chinese axes that are not really worth while. If you really hunt around you might be able to find some half decent heads for a reasonable price but its slim pickings. I just think the vintage axe market is kind of insane, most old axe heads are not worth that much. Only a very rare few are really worth it assuming you are a collector looking to complete a collection.
When i buy axes or a Pickaroons(Sappie,Sapine,Zapin) i will buy tools made Regionally, since they are adaped over hundread of years. I was so dumb to buy an american pattern years ago, well now i know better. I learned that it doesnt even have convex sides. meh
Ive been watching you for a few weeks and ive learned alot more about axes than i knew before. i was looking for the bison rhineland axe you recommended for kindling and carving but i couldnt find it, I found a ochsenkopf that is similar to it www.knivesandtools.co.uk/en/pt/-ochsenkopf-forestry-axe-1100-grams-ox-235-e-0802.htm could you teel me what you think of it or how you would modify? i would personally thin the handle but I would trust your opinion more.
yeah thats the pattern i would get, they also make a slightly lighter one OX 235 E-0602 which i think is a bit better for working longer as carving can really tire out the wrist and forearm. thin the handle and file a flat grind onto it, ideally 20-25 degrees and you are set. The ochsenkopf will be much better steel than the bison I have, better quality for sure.
@@benscottwoodchopper just out of curiosity, what would your profession be called? i thought the professional tree fellers only used chainsaws nowadays.
Too bad Wetterlings has gone up into Gransfors, they produced nice axes for a decent price, still love the Wetterlings Swedish Forest Axe, could swing that one all day, it’s not finished as pretty as gransfors, but that gave me the opportunity to tune and sharpen it to my preference. And indeed pricing of vintage axes are becomming way to high for an old piece of steel. The last ones I got were the older skandinavian collared axes. Most of them you find nowadays have a mushromed poll (initiatlly intended to pound on wood, and wooden handled chisels). They are pain to rehandle but for one reason or another I still like them. Nice video BTW.
I've worn out a file thinning an old head. Easier method is the angle grinder with a flap disc which doesn't leave a rough finish but still removes steel efficiently. Keep checking the angle with a file to leave scratch marks on the high spots so you know where to remove steel.
I have 3 axes. 1 1000g/ 700 mm axe from my Opa. Its an universal axe. I dont know the age. 1 new Müller 1200g/ 700 mm dedicated limbing axe. 65 €, i will have it all my life. Very nice quality(well that is what you expect from European axe manufacturers that are over 200 years) 1 new Müller 2750g/ 850 mm splitting axe. 80 €, again will have it all my life Works very good, but im too weak for now to accelerate it enough. I never cut limbs before, it works amazing, i never would have tought. Sometimes i only need 1 good fast hit and the limb is cut clean trough. I also have a Prandi "Yankee Pattern" 900 g....its very good quality again of course, but the eye is small and for Hickory. I dont want to order a hickory handle from Prandi and want to support Ash from Europe. I guess i will sell it since i got the other axe from my Opa. Steels from decades ago is not better, seems like this Idea originated from America where the companies cheaped out or Imported straight from China. In the "Old World" its always the same Top Quality Steel. I love European Companies! (besides the obvious cheap ones from Obi, Horbach or Aldi) Do you have any expirience with deformation of the eye if you hit fellingwedges with "normal" axes? Like the Axes you showed in the video. I dont want to deform the eye even a millitmeter. I heard that on the internet, idk if this is a possibility. If it is i will just do it like my Instructors did when i had a "Waldarbeiterwoche" in School= take axe for removing the bark to see the firbe lines of the tree and a sledgehammer for pounding. Oh and when you fell trees do you notice a differnce when you use aluminium or plastic wedges? Could you ask your stepfather if there is a difference, thank you.
Yeah that is a good collection of tools. I have never had deformation of the eye hitting plastic or wood wedges, but for aluminium or steel i think it is just better practice to use a schlegleaxt with a hardened hammer. It depends though and its probably fine to use an axe with a decently thick eye on aluminium. I prefer aluminuim wedges for felling and splitting
I have 1 vintage axe, 2 modern axes and 2 modern hatchets. It may be because the modern axes I have aren't highest quality ones, but they lose their edge far quicker than the vintage (which also takes MUCH longer to sharpen).
Good info. My experience is similar, but I’ve had really good luck with vintage steel and narrow grinds. I was chatting with SkillCut online and he doesn’t think it’s possible to run an axe past a 20 degree chisel grind without rolling the edge. All I could say is that I have several set up below that with no secondary bevel and have had no problems. I have had issues with Oschenkopf and Council Tools budget axes at those angles. I told him to talk to you since you seem to be pushing those grinds further and further as well. That said, with the vintage stuff, I’m mostly talking about heads I’ve paid a lot for. Also I think the sooner one learns how to hang an axe the better. As always, thanks for the axe content!
yeah I always roll the edge on any axes sub 20 degrees, absolutely flat like a mora knife is too chippy I've found. it really depends on the wood though. Had the most problems cutting those softwoods with knots, hardwoods like ash or beech haven't given me issues
Some places in the US are absolutely saturated with regional vintage axes. I've found that many of them actually don't really have splitting profiles. It actually takes me a bit of work to find the fat, more wedged vintage axes for splitting. I think I might have to take a vintage axe down to an extreme angle just to have a crazy chopper. Haven't really taken anything passed 17.5-20 degrees. It does take a lot of work to remove material if you don't have machines. A belt grinder would be optimal. With files, I really doubt anybody is going to be making a chopper like you prefer out of a worn vintage axe so I'd have to agree with you there.
yeah Iv'e talked to a few people who seem to be able to pick up a dozen axes for $5 each in parts of the US, but most seem to pay more. How thin you can get the angle will vary with the pattern and head condition but in general for an old dayton with some wear 20 is about the limit unless you really heavily modify it with power tools
Great video ! Thanks for putting the time in , I do agree with a lot your saying about vintage axes , weather it be putting together a good user or wall hanger The price in the last five plus years has skyrocketed for even the most worn and corroded “vintage axe “. For an out of the box cutter I’m a gransfors man !!!
For your next consider trying a basque or rinaldi, both cheaper than gransfors but much better cutters from my experience, other guy thinks so too! ua-cam.com/video/1TdggZYSCfk/v-deo.html
Great video Ben, love both vintage and new axes, but I find the one I use most is my 2 3/4 lb Ewell “pulpwood axe”. Pretty much new out the box, original handle and not a lick of damage on the head at all. Perfect weight and handle length for the majority of the work I do in the woods
Yeah getting a 'new' old axe is rare, but they are well worth keeping an eye out for. Seen a couple come up recently but all really went crazy with the bidding
I think a lot of foriegn axe collectors have taken an interest in french axes, increasing the price. I have some experience with the german market and its better but still 20-30 euros for the better axes
@@benscottwoodchopper Right. And some sellers have noticed this too and are selling axes "restored" with a new handle but in general those are too expensive and more for display than for real life use..
@@timobreumelhof88 I think the worst case is with the axes from Finland, became very desired by collectors. I have even been in bidding wars with americans to get Brades heads, unfortunately even not well known English axes have became desired. perhaps I am to blame for advertising them
You can still get great cheap axe easly in France but it's true that these laste 4years the price on ebay france have gone up beacause of collector... witch is very enoying for us users
Here there are tons of vintage axes that have never been sharpened or ground back, or very little. I have a pile of them. But I think it is partly a matter of numbers. There are just tons of axes here. typically at garage sales, junk stores and flea markets, heads are 5 to 10.00 still and with handles 15.00 to 20.00 I agree though that it's a good caveat to not buy heavily worn axes. I only have a few heavily worn axes around, I sold most of them on ebay ha ha. I'm may have discussed that in my axe defects video. I see people buying super stubbed out axes, with heavily rounded toes on ebay. a lot of those as you said great for splitting, but I imagine in the old days they would be taken to the smith and thrown back in the forge to draw out, or maybe add another bit? not sure. Another thing that might be a factor is that at least in our small axes, the eyes are thinner. Either way, if it's not so stubby that you're not burying the axe to the eye, it can still be ground out, but it will likely be a long time grinding, let alone filing. Interesting about the eye deformation. Almost every axe here has poll mushrooming, at least a little, but in my experience, visible eye deformation is rare. The handles I've been buying at the hardware store are only 12.00 usd. I haven't shopped on ebay lately for heads, but typically no name are often cheap, especially for the patient, using ebay notifications for saved searches. But really ebay is a shite way to shop for axes. I have no clue why other people say they can't find axes. I barely go to town and collect a few every year at just basically one store and tow or three garage sales. great video. Good different perspective for me to see, because my go to recommendation here is now find a vintage head and hunt all the hardware stores for the few good handles.
For the last 3 years any chance i get to search for axes i am always very disapointed. Is the area you live famous for logging www.reddit.com/r/Axecraft/comments/in1sh5/hunting_for_axes_in_the_uk_generally_sucks_this/?
@@benscottwoodchopper The thing is, it's very famous for logging, the redwood industry was in my back yard and it's still logging country, but many of the axes aren't actually that old or from the logging industry. Honestly, I think it might be largely due to good old throw away consumer capitalism. It's a different attitude here. Maybe elsewhere now too, but it's been that way here for a long time. The history back east is even longer, so there are more old tools in general.
thats the problem here, the stuff you can find is expensive and in terrible condition. If you are broke then you can buy a council tool at £5 more than the cost of a new handle
@@benscottwoodchopper yeah I understand. It took me over a year of searching to find a good deal. I eventually got an awesome 3.5lb double bit collins for $5 and all it needed was a couple hours of TLC.
@@Moostery www.reddit.com/r/Axecraft/comments/in1sh5/hunting_for_axes_in_the_uk_generally_sucks_this/ this is the best i have been able to find at junk shops so far! axe hunting is pretty crappy here lol
I’ve been to that studio
Vintage axe is bragging rights (I have built a few) new axe is practical (I love them too).
Ben, I have the highest regard for your channel and your no-nonsense, very educational delivery. Incredibly helpful. Thank you. Oh -- and this vid in particular, a topic I searched for and, when I saw yours, immediately chose it from the others. Dead on. Confirmed my own ideas on this, having struggled with "vintage" heads I've purchased and been gravely disappointed with. But you did also give me a bit of "redemption" -- never thought about dedicating my worn, beaten heads to splitting.
Nice take on old Vs New👍🇺🇸Quality Vintage Axes in clean usable condition are getting more scarce,- But There’s still a bunch of good Vintage in America , but they will dry up in time. Nice old Swedish axes can be had in the states. Old German axes too!
Where i live in Spain i have to go to ebay, and prices are going up and there are lots of crap or you have to pay more for the shipping plus customs than the axe head you're buying....I would like to find a good one, but for the price, i prefer going for a thrusted hardware store basque (1,5 kg with rought finish but good steel and chopping profile for about 60 € or a 2,5 kg splitting one for 80 € shipping included ...)
Vintage axe heads sell for ridiculous amounts on ebay here in Canada and the USA. youre lucky if you can get one for under $100
In the U.S., unless you find a bargain at a garage sale for $5, you're probably better off buying new (especially Council Tools, which are still fairly reasonable here). Ebay and the information highway have inflated prices through the roof for almost anything vintage.
yeah in particular its hard to find nice wieghts of 2-3lb, mostly 4 or 5lbers
@@benscottwoodchopper not sure exactly why, but by far the most common I see around here is 3.5lb. on a 36" handle, usually a Dayton or Michigan pattern.
Here in Australia there are still a lot of great vintage axes around (although the prices have gone up a lot recently). I use and like Hults, but compared to an old Hytest or Plumb Tassie with an intact bit, they don't chop or split our timber as well. Also new European axes are quite expensive here so it's possible to restore a Hytest Craftsman for less than or the same as the cost of a brand new Hults Bruk. But the way the vintage prices are inflating, that may not be the case much longer.
I presume a tuatahi china head or work axe is a bit cheaper there as well? Postage and customs here is ridiculous here, adds another 30% lol
@@benscottwoodchopper I've seen the Tuatahi work axe for sale here for around 600 AUD, but I think it's much cheaper to order direct from Tuatahi.
Spot on mate. I've scored a few old hults agdors and daytons, love em (my most used is a 2.75 Dayton, followed by a 4lb agdor) but a decent Tassie in good nick is a better allrounder I think.
Yes old axes have gone way up thanks to everyone thinking everything old is priceless. I have been able to get a few vintage axes for reasonable prices and they are far better than my fiskars. The only newer axe i like is my council tool boy's axe. I also just got done refurbishing a true temper flint edge kelly works. Axe was at the dump and i got the new handle from the amish for $14.
I own about 200 axes, of which about 12 are modern. an axe fanatic, collector and restorer, and frequent bush-crafter who uses axes of all sizes with great regularity as well as I burn wood in my house and hand cut all my firewood, including all of my tree falling by axe, I am no stranger to the axe world :) I can appreciate your opinions, and certainly a newer axe is the better choice for the novice or inexperienced at correcting old damaged bevels and edges. BUT I will strongly disagree with you about steel quality. You pretty much have to go back to pre-1960s to find axes made from 100% true virgin steel. After about the 1950s almost everything produced has SOME inferior material in it. for ME personally my greatest reason for preferring vintage axes to USE is BECAUSE of their superior steel quality. about 95% of my axe use is with very old axes (pre-1950s). And to this day, the only axes I have ever used that have received any bit damage during normal use, only hitting wood, are with 3 of my modern swedish axes . Yep this is absolutely true. Older steel IS superior. I wish I had the link to a video I saw in the USA where someone placed a modern axe head and a 70 year old axe head into a high compression electronic vice, clamped at the top of the poll and the bit edge. at almost 9000 lbs pressure the vintage axe heads eye finally gave way and the eye folded like a piece of paper, but the bit stayed straight and true. But with barely 3600 lb pressure the modern axe heads bit curled and snapped off. granted I dont think it was a swedish axe, but the point was well made.
my best performing falling axes I own which hold their sharp edge very well (and trust me mine are sharp :), are my Gransfors Bruks Black king from the 1920s, my 1950s Swedish Kolifors, my American made Kelly axe (pre-true temper 1930), my 1940s Brades 3 lber and a handful of very old Germans. My 1873 HH Stricker is killer too (yes its from 1873 ! ) they are all unbeatably great steel that holds its edge better than any of my 12 modern axes which are all swedish or german. I still love my modern axes too, just their steel quality isnt quite as bulletproof.
good review though.
From my experience i find the steel doesnt matter that much. Swedish steel is overhyped, definitely seen the most breaks with them. I wouldnt judge modern steel totally on swedish. In any case it makes little difference to actually getting work done from my experience. Also had some vintage axes break. Tuatahi is an excellent example of what is possible with modern steel technology.
A big issue is finding nice weights of vintage, easier to find 4lb to 6lb than nice useful 2.5 to 3.5lb at least in the UK.
In short i think everyone should start with a new axe, easier to hand file and learn on. Wetterlings EX, old Elwells sometimes need a belt sander to reprofile they are that hard
@@benscottwoodchopper I totally agree with you on those points. And yes different axes with be available and unavailable in different places.
Totally agreed that anyone without a lot of experience should start new. my personal first choice would be though to find a well restored vintage axe first :) Im an older guy and I restore and sell axes on the side and my dream would be to open a small workshop teaching anyone who wanted to learn how to restore axes and make handles from scratch as I do. would be great fun and a joy to help others learn the craft.
having said that, neither of us has mentioned modern Ox Head axes from Germany and I find them to be by far the best modern steel. STHL chainsaw sellers sell Ox Head under their own branding. worth a look cause they are also much cheaper option than swedish .
Cheers :)
Here in Canada if you live in a place that has logging operations axes are pretty easy to find. They tend to be in decent shape and a no name vintage axe head can be had for $10 or $15 . The prices are kinda nutty here in southern Ontario, guys want $50 for a no name bit that is pretty much just a stub. Other than that its just mystery Chinese axes that are not really worth while. If you really hunt around you might be able to find some half decent heads for a reasonable price but its slim pickings. I just think the vintage axe market is kind of insane, most old axe heads are not worth that much. Only a very rare few are really worth it assuming you are a collector looking to complete a collection.
When i buy axes or a Pickaroons(Sappie,Sapine,Zapin) i will buy tools made Regionally, since they are adaped over hundread of years.
I was so dumb to buy an american pattern years ago, well now i know better. I learned that it doesnt even have convex sides. meh
Ive been watching you for a few weeks and ive learned alot more about axes than i knew before. i was looking for the bison rhineland axe you recommended for kindling and carving but i couldnt find it, I found a ochsenkopf that is similar to it www.knivesandtools.co.uk/en/pt/-ochsenkopf-forestry-axe-1100-grams-ox-235-e-0802.htm could you teel me what you think of it or how you would modify? i would personally thin the handle but I would trust your opinion more.
yeah thats the pattern i would get, they also make a slightly lighter one OX 235 E-0602 which i think is a bit better for working longer as carving can really tire out the wrist and forearm. thin the handle and file a flat grind onto it, ideally 20-25 degrees and you are set. The ochsenkopf will be much better steel than the bison I have, better quality for sure.
@@benscottwoodchopper thanks for the info i seen the other ochsenkoph with the flatter grind it looks good
@@benscottwoodchopper just out of curiosity, what would your profession be called? i thought the professional tree fellers only used chainsaws nowadays.
@@dermotmcgreevy5220 back when axes were used it was a feller but now there is no real name for someone who uses an axe
@@benscottwoodchopper axeman!
Too bad Wetterlings has gone up into Gransfors, they produced nice axes for a decent price, still love the Wetterlings Swedish Forest Axe, could swing that one all day, it’s not finished as pretty as gransfors, but that gave me the opportunity to tune and sharpen it to my preference. And indeed pricing of vintage axes are becomming way to high for an old piece of steel. The last ones I got were the older skandinavian collared axes. Most of them you find nowadays have a mushromed poll (initiatlly intended to pound on wood, and wooden handled chisels). They are pain to rehandle but for one reason or another I still like them. Nice video BTW.
ahh, someone likes my hultafors:) you took a lot of the with of the handle there.
yeah making the handle thinner makes it much better at absorbing shock, i've had injuries from thick handles
I've worn out a file thinning an old head. Easier method is the angle grinder with a flap disc which doesn't leave a rough finish but still removes steel efficiently. Keep checking the angle with a file to leave scratch marks on the high spots so you know where to remove steel.
Don’t forget the heavy Kent pattern
You can get an excellent bevel for cutting
But I find they have a softer temper and need constant maintenance
I have 3 axes.
1 1000g/ 700 mm axe from my Opa. Its an universal axe.
I dont know the age.
1 new Müller 1200g/ 700 mm dedicated limbing axe. 65 €, i will have it all my life.
Very nice quality(well that is what you expect from European axe manufacturers that are over 200 years)
1 new Müller 2750g/ 850 mm splitting axe. 80 €, again will have it all my life
Works very good, but im too weak for now to accelerate it enough.
I never cut limbs before, it works amazing, i never would have tought. Sometimes i only need 1 good fast hit and the limb is cut clean trough.
I also have a Prandi "Yankee Pattern" 900 g....its very good quality again of course, but the eye is small and for Hickory. I dont want to order a hickory handle from Prandi and want to support Ash from Europe.
I guess i will sell it since i got the other axe from my Opa.
Steels from decades ago is not better, seems like this Idea originated from America where the companies cheaped out or Imported straight from China.
In the "Old World" its always the same Top Quality Steel. I love European Companies! (besides the obvious cheap ones from Obi, Horbach or Aldi)
Do you have any expirience with deformation of the eye if you hit fellingwedges with "normal" axes? Like the Axes you showed in the video.
I dont want to deform the eye even a millitmeter.
I heard that on the internet, idk if this is a possibility.
If it is i will just do it like my Instructors did when i had a "Waldarbeiterwoche" in School= take axe for removing the bark to see the firbe lines of the tree and a sledgehammer for pounding.
Oh and when you fell trees do you notice a differnce when you use aluminium or plastic wedges?
Could you ask your stepfather if there is a difference, thank you.
Yeah that is a good collection of tools. I have never had deformation of the eye hitting plastic or wood wedges, but for aluminium or steel i think it is just better practice to use a schlegleaxt with a hardened hammer. It depends though and its probably fine to use an axe with a decently thick eye on aluminium. I prefer aluminuim wedges for felling and splitting
I have 1 vintage axe, 2 modern axes and 2 modern hatchets.
It may be because the modern axes I have aren't highest quality ones, but they lose their edge far quicker than the vintage (which also takes MUCH longer to sharpen).
Ive found it varies alot between new and vintage, some of the finnish vintage axes are the softest ive ever filed.
Good info. My experience is similar, but I’ve had really good luck with vintage steel and narrow grinds. I was chatting with SkillCut online and he doesn’t think it’s possible to run an axe past a 20 degree chisel grind without rolling the edge. All I could say is that I have several set up below that with no secondary bevel and have had no problems. I have had issues with Oschenkopf and Council Tools budget axes at those angles. I told him to talk to you since you seem to be pushing those grinds further and further as well. That said, with the vintage stuff, I’m mostly talking about heads I’ve paid a lot for. Also I think the sooner one learns how to hang an axe the better. As always, thanks for the axe content!
yeah I always roll the edge on any axes sub 20 degrees, absolutely flat like a mora knife is too chippy I've found. it really depends on the wood though. Had the most problems cutting those softwoods with knots, hardwoods like ash or beech haven't given me issues
Some places in the US are absolutely saturated with regional vintage axes. I've found that many of them actually don't really have splitting profiles. It actually takes me a bit of work to find the fat, more wedged vintage axes for splitting.
I think I might have to take a vintage axe down to an extreme angle just to have a crazy chopper. Haven't really taken anything passed 17.5-20 degrees. It does take a lot of work to remove material if you don't have machines. A belt grinder would be optimal. With files, I really doubt anybody is going to be making a chopper like you prefer out of a worn vintage axe so I'd have to agree with you there.
yeah Iv'e talked to a few people who seem to be able to pick up a dozen axes for $5 each in parts of the US, but most seem to pay more. How thin you can get the angle will vary with the pattern and head condition but in general for an old dayton with some wear 20 is about the limit unless you really heavily modify it with power tools
Great video !
Thanks for putting the time in ,
I do agree with a lot your saying about vintage axes , weather it be putting together a good user or wall hanger
The price in the last five plus years has skyrocketed for even the most worn and corroded “vintage axe “.
For an out of the box cutter I’m a gransfors man !!!
For your next consider trying a basque or rinaldi, both cheaper than gransfors but much better cutters from my experience, other guy thinks so too! ua-cam.com/video/1TdggZYSCfk/v-deo.html
Great video Ben, love both vintage and new axes, but I find the one I use most is my
2 3/4 lb Ewell “pulpwood axe”. Pretty much new out the box, original handle and not a lick of damage on the head at all. Perfect weight and handle length for the majority of the work I do in the woods
Yeah getting a 'new' old axe is rare, but they are well worth keeping an eye out for. Seen a couple come up recently but all really went crazy with the bidding
Really nice video Ben x
I noticed the same for vintage axe heads in France and apart of some hewing axes I didn't buy any.
I think a lot of foriegn axe collectors have taken an interest in french axes, increasing the price. I have some experience with the german market and its better but still 20-30 euros for the better axes
@@benscottwoodchopper Right. And some sellers have noticed this too and are selling axes "restored" with a new handle but in general those are too expensive and more for display than for real life use..
@@timobreumelhof88 I think the worst case is with the axes from Finland, became very desired by collectors. I have even been in bidding wars with americans to get Brades heads, unfortunately even not well known English axes have became desired. perhaps I am to blame for advertising them
You can still get great cheap axe easly in France but it's true that these laste 4years the price on ebay france have gone up beacause of collector... witch is very enoying for us users
@@gustaveremon7019 I have seen the same effect on Leboncoin I think..
Here there are tons of vintage axes that have never been sharpened or ground back, or very little. I have a pile of them. But I think it is partly a matter of numbers. There are just tons of axes here. typically at garage sales, junk stores and flea markets, heads are 5 to 10.00 still and with handles 15.00 to 20.00 I agree though that it's a good caveat to not buy heavily worn axes. I only have a few heavily worn axes around, I sold most of them on ebay ha ha. I'm may have discussed that in my axe defects video. I see people buying super stubbed out axes, with heavily rounded toes on ebay. a lot of those as you said great for splitting, but I imagine in the old days they would be taken to the smith and thrown back in the forge to draw out, or maybe add another bit? not sure. Another thing that might be a factor is that at least in our small axes, the eyes are thinner. Either way, if it's not so stubby that you're not burying the axe to the eye, it can still be ground out, but it will likely be a long time grinding, let alone filing. Interesting about the eye deformation. Almost every axe here has poll mushrooming, at least a little, but in my experience, visible eye deformation is rare. The handles I've been buying at the hardware store are only 12.00 usd. I haven't shopped on ebay lately for heads, but typically no name are often cheap, especially for the patient, using ebay notifications for saved searches. But really ebay is a shite way to shop for axes. I have no clue why other people say they can't find axes. I barely go to town and collect a few every year at just basically one store and tow or three garage sales. great video. Good different perspective for me to see, because my go to recommendation here is now find a vintage head and hunt all the hardware stores for the few good handles.
For the last 3 years any chance i get to search for axes i am always very disapointed. Is the area you live famous for logging www.reddit.com/r/Axecraft/comments/in1sh5/hunting_for_axes_in_the_uk_generally_sucks_this/?
@@benscottwoodchopper The thing is, it's very famous for logging, the redwood industry was in my back yard and it's still logging country, but many of the axes aren't actually that old or from the logging industry. Honestly, I think it might be largely due to good old throw away consumer capitalism. It's a different attitude here. Maybe elsewhere now too, but it's been that way here for a long time. The history back east is even longer, so there are more old tools in general.
@@benscottwoodchopper Also, I should stop saying vintage. I use it synonymous with. used, but many are from the 60's and up.
@@SkillCult i think the problem here is there was no major logging, just a lit of farmers who abuse the shit out of thier tools for decades lol
@@benscottwoodchopper Like you, I don't think there is some magic about vintage axes. It works or it doesn't.
When you're broke as a joke you only have one option. Scour the flea markets till you can find one that's affordable.
thats the problem here, the stuff you can find is expensive and in terrible condition. If you are broke then you can buy a council tool at £5 more than the cost of a new handle
@@benscottwoodchopper yeah I understand. It took me over a year of searching to find a good deal. I eventually got an awesome 3.5lb double bit collins for $5 and all it needed was a couple hours of TLC.
@@Moostery www.reddit.com/r/Axecraft/comments/in1sh5/hunting_for_axes_in_the_uk_generally_sucks_this/ this is the best i have been able to find at junk shops so far! axe hunting is pretty crappy here lol