This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the clear explanation how to open up this machine, and what to look for. I think mine was opened once before, as the screws were "screwed", and once I got in, there was glue on all of the tabs holding the buttons in place (you mention at 3min). By taking off the glue, and fixing the tabs properly, the two faulty buttons I had worked perfectly again. I'm just thinking how to fix them from popping out again, as I guess this was why they were glued up in the first place. Maybe toothpicks jammed in with each tab might do it.
I cannot figure why I'm here, maybe because I'm a X3 live owner (that works...). But I have to comment and rate your video to thank you to share these info with the community. Rock on!
Found my issue!!. no lights or function on the switches so with your help with screw disassembly instruction made it a breeze to open and find a disconnected serial cable where the glue gun security broke free. it must have dropped or some rat was in there. so thank you again! thank goodness an easy fix before I'll need to solder new switches.
Thank you for sharing this video. My POD X3 LIVE seemed to have the same issue with the TAP/TUNER switch. Turned out to be deteriorated hotglue. The board came loose from the big switch. Little bit of new hot glue did the trick. Still thankfull for the tutorial to open this thing !
Thanks! Very helpful! In my case, the little spring for the Tuner button (Tap/Hold for Tuner) needed to be stretched a little bit to make better physical contact with the momentary switch. Cheers!
Hey mate, the little black buttons that are inside the spring loaded bit of the physical switch. What are they called if you want to buy a replacement? Also, your 3 little prongs to remove look like they come off super easy - mine is tight as a nun's. Any recommendations. Amazing video btw.
Andres - It sounds like something was disconnected from the main board. It would be worth opening it up and checking that ribbon cable that comes from the main board and connects those 2 rows of switches. Check other connections as well why you have it open. Let me know how it goes!
Mine completely turned off all of the buttons below all the metals, but buttons above like the knobs are working, I think the ribbon pin inside was disconnected
nice. but my x3 live also have problems with the rotary knob on input and the arrow buttons on edit. how to disassemble those parts to clean? do you have any suggestions? thanks
You can spray some contact cleaner on and under the switch before removing it from the board, which might solve your issue. I just did this to my old Shortboard MKii and it worked for me.
First of all, life saving stuff, thanx a mil! I will try this first procedure and see what the problem with mine really is. Secondly, I would like to know the specs of the kind of switches you purchased: is there any specific name and/or brand you used? And why is that? Because I am from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Pretty major capital here in Brazil, I don't think I'll have any problems in finding them, but I would like to know if I could be the most specific I can with the local retailer to avoid any further problems. My final question is on the welding process. You skipped that part in this video and I would like to see it to have an idea of what it really takes to replace, if necessary, the switches on my pedalboard. Can you help me with this one? All the best and keep up your great work!
The switches on my Pod X3 have actuators around .92mm high. Jaycar offers these switches in 1.4mm or .7mm actuator height. Total height of my Pod switches is 4mm. The kit in your description has switches with total height of 5mm. I'm inclined to buy this kit because I'll get 280 switches for the price of 10 switches from Jaycar, but since I can't find an exact height match I don't know if going slightly taller or slightly shorter would be best. Your thoughts?
Thank you very much for this video! It is soooo awesome! A warning for noobs: if you are new soldering, be prepared to put in a few hours. Buying the parts is easy, but removing the old buttons can be "heck". I had to spend time removing the solder bit by bit (as much as I could), and ultimately, I used a pair of pliers to break off the tips - I then broke apart each button very carefully with those same pliers, and then used a drill with a very tiny bit to make a new hole through the old solder that refused to come off. I'm not a religious person, but I had to pray to Jesus twice (while begging "please") after putting on the new buttons to make sure they worked. My calls were answered. Good luck! (If anybody has a recommended desoldering video, please share!)
Hey.. I've X3 board myself it ain't coming on.. It was working just fine earlier and now it won't turn off.. My last switching off was done directly by mistake.. Could be it IC related?
@@ehenyor oh man! Typo.. I meant in my last session which was day before night, it was working just fine.. I unplugged it to charge my phone but did it directly from the main switch.. I tried to switch it on yesterday and now nothing is happening.. The board doesn't come on.. I'm guessing, since adapters are there to check on spikes surges in power, it could be the adapter that's faulty, unlesssssss.. 🤷🏻♂️
Hey guys! Thanks for the video! I just got one used, and it has a similar problem, but on the upper row. Would I have to remove the connecting ribbon cable for it? Also, probably due to shipping, the metal bar below the screen got loose. One of its ends has the screw below it loosely attached, but the other end is free. I hear something rolling inside, probably it's the screw that got loose. How would I fix it? I'm afraid to unscrew the main board.
Hey guys, thanks for the video! That's a nice production you got there. I wanted to ask for advice about my POD X3 live. All my footswitches broke down at the same time and the leds won't turn on even if I toggle the effects manually from the main board. My expression pedal (with the wah toggle and everything) still works. Do you think it's the flex that comes from the main board? If so, do you know a way of fixing it?
Following my previous comment, I bought 6 micro switches from Jaycar ($1 each but, hey, Australia really IS the RIP-OFF COUNTRY, for EVERYTHING!!) and replaced the whole bottom row... An hour later.......... It works like a DREAM !!!! Thank you Guys!!!!
I was doing this procedure yesterday night and it was good at the beginning. I could replace the buttons for A, B, C and D and and now they are working fine. I had to do the same also for Stomp and Mod but when I was desoldering them the circuit was cut and I'm talking about this sticky tape in green. I tried to paste it togheter again or putting some soldering on it. Now Stomp, Mod, Delay and Comp are not working? Is there something to do with it? Thanks a lot
Hello. Thanks for the video. Is it the same to fix the wah footswitch? It stopped working on mine and I can't turn wah or or off with the switch underneath the pedal.
also i seem to have an issue with clicking the wah/volume pedal between functions. any help with that would be a god send of information. any advice you can offer please?
i would probably just use some key lubricant with a fine tip applicator. Or wd40 would probably work lol, unless you totally soaked the board, it shouldn't do much harm
i am so on the fence about buying one of these even knowing about the switch issues but whats up with those capacitors, were those installed that way? are these things still worth overlooking the shitty build quality?
It was a great tutorial. I'm facing temporal loss in output with my X3 Live. Tried with several guitars but the problem is same. It'd be great if you could suggest some solution. :)
If you can pick one up used for a good price, i would recommend it. There is nothing wrong with the capacitors, that is exactly how it was built, we never touched them. The fact that they are bent is nothing to worry about. And yes they are worth overlooking the build quality as long as you pick one of these up for a good deal! Thanks for watching!
Do you guys have a 'Jaycar' store in the US? I'm wondering if they have the little button parts that I MAY need to replace. Otherwise I'll try my luck at a hardware store
Mine has the same thing over tap and comp buttons, i have tried to putting a push button over those tring to see if it´s works but nothing. Do you thinks is something wrong with the mainboard?
Can someone just tell me how to pull up the preset effects and put four of them on the four buttons to use while playing. Everywhere including the manual seems to think everyone just wants to make their own and focuses on that.
Is it possible to replace the up-down buttons near the display? My X3 suddenly enters into the edit mode and moving the parameters, seems the "down" button damaged.
When I tested the switches one of the bulbs started flashing and wouldn't stop. What do I do if the whole board is bad? What do I call the switches when I go to the hardware store? Thanks very much!
If your board is completely bad, then there is not a lot you can do. Although unless you have really abused it or have gotten water damage, i would think that the board is still good. Remove power from the board to get the light to stop. They are called momentary push buttons, or tactical switches. You'll need these www.ebay.com/itm/100-Pcs-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-Momentary-6x6x5mm-4-Pin-DIP-/331494892517?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d2ea2a3e5
+xTheOxx They are called momentary push buttons, SMD mount 4 pin type. Here is a link to ebay, hope this helps www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-Tactile-Push-Button-Tact-Switch-Momentary-6x6x4-3mm-4-pin-DIP-Through-Hole-/121918399233?hash=item1c62e72301:g:wCYAAOSwmmxW35ti Thanks!
Great helpful video. Amazing that a product so expensive used crappy switches like these. Line 6 designers should be ashamed for such poor product parts selection. Built in redundancy by design. Note all line 6 product from early day are no longer supported. Line 6 had the chance to be a great company but ruined their reputation via poor customer focus.
@@EzeRazor hope it ain't much =( fill me in how it goes when you do check it out.. I had to make emergency home travel so left my adapter & processor, both.. I'm yet to check so hope when I'm back that it's only the adapter, not the board itself =/
@@kunal_k_ hi, its being checked by someone i trust right now. I could noticed that the inside looks just fine. I will come back with updates and see if i can help you with some feedback. If it works again im gonna clean the hell out of the footswitches :)
@@EzeRazor hey, yea if insides are looking fine, maybe it'd be a small matter n hopefully fix it up.. As for me, I'll be in suspense for quite a while till I reach my other place back in the other city. Do fill me in, thanks =) Haha, those switches after a good considerable gap does need some good cleaning, and I saw some other vid on tube that shows how to fix those buttons as well, just in case
@@kunal_k_ Seems like it was a capacitor apparently , I mean that was what the technician said,.. so its back working just perfect!! Now its time to get some contact cleaning to bring my footswitches back to life. I did check the momentary switches and seems like you really need to push them (i used my nails) clearly and solid and that way will activate just right away which makes my thinkg that the external footswitch is not working due to the lack of a contact cleaning service lol. I will come back with updates once I do that, maybe it will help others my feedback cause until this video i never though that I could have the switches back again 100%.
Anyone else have big issues trying to get the green footswitch plate off? Mine are super stubborn and scared to pull on it too much. As you said, they come up super easy. Not mine lol
On my POD HD300 it's a bad micro switch (doesn't click). Gonna have to replace it with Line 6 part number 24-31-1105. You can get it on amprepairparts dot com.
lol - shit6. I recently successfully replaced the switch. Line6 should definitely come up with a different switch/board design because the one they've been using is destined to fail with continued use. It's ridiculous to ask such a flimsy internal component to withstand prolonged foot stomping even if it's consistently considered foot "tapping"!
Those shitty microswitches would need to be replaced with proper buttons... Defective design. In my case it's not the switch that stopped working but that transparent plastic grips stopped keeping pcb in place. Those grips are the weakest link.
Thanks for this Posting. I can't tell you what a help this will be to repair my switches on my Pod X3 Live unit. CAN YOU PLEASE POST ME THE PART NUMBER FOR THE SWITCHES AND THE SWITCH COVERS AND WHERE THEY CAN BE PURCHASED . THANKS SO MUCH FOR ANY INFORMATION BUT MOST OF ALL FOR THE POSTING!!! RERUN_LIVES
Line 6 part number 24-31-1105 ( QN172384 ) SWITCH TACT 6mm SQ- 4PIN TH TACT SWITCH, 6mm X 6mm. 1.5mm PLUNGER HEIGHT -switch body 3.0mm tall (without actuator). 6mm x 6mm square (1/4" x 1/4"). Body of switch is 3.0mm tall (without plunger). Plunger extends 1.5mm above top of switch.= 6mm x 6mm x 4.5mm works also.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the clear explanation how to open up this machine, and what to look for. I think mine was opened once before, as the screws were "screwed", and once I got in, there was glue on all of the tabs holding the buttons in place (you mention at 3min). By taking off the glue, and fixing the tabs properly, the two faulty buttons I had worked perfectly again.
I'm just thinking how to fix them from popping out again, as I guess this was why they were glued up in the first place. Maybe toothpicks jammed in with each tab might do it.
I cannot figure why I'm here, maybe because I'm a X3 live owner (that works...). But I have to comment and rate your video to thank you to share these info with the community. Rock on!
Found my issue!!. no lights or function on the switches so with your help with screw disassembly instruction made it a breeze to open and find a disconnected serial cable where the glue gun security broke free. it must have dropped or some rat was in there. so thank you again! thank goodness an easy fix before I'll need to solder new switches.
I don't even own one, but I watched the entire video. I enjoy stuff like this.
That was dope, thanks guys!
Thank you for sharing this video. My POD X3 LIVE seemed to have the same issue with the TAP/TUNER switch. Turned out to be deteriorated hotglue. The board came loose from the big switch. Little bit of new hot glue did the trick. Still thankfull for the tutorial to open this thing !
Very helpful guys, thanks. The tuner button on my unit was out, so I swapped it out with no issues. You guys rock!
Thanks! Very helpful! In my case, the little spring for the Tuner button (Tap/Hold for Tuner) needed to be stretched a little bit to make better physical contact with the momentary switch. Cheers!
man, thanks for posting this reply, this seemed to help with my tap/tuner button. it was getting annoying not being able to tap my delay. .
@@rcc3music : in my case it turned out to be the hotglue that came loose.
Hey mate, the little black buttons that are inside the spring loaded bit of the physical switch. What are they called if you want to buy a replacement?
Also, your 3 little prongs to remove look like they come off super easy - mine is tight as a nun's. Any recommendations. Amazing video btw.
Thanks for this! I just had a ribbon cable loose but would have had to guess at how to open the case.
Andres - It sounds like something was disconnected from the main board. It would be worth opening it up and checking that ribbon cable that comes from the main board and connects those 2 rows of switches. Check other connections as well why you have it open. Let me know how it goes!
Thank you so much! I'll get back to you when I get it open :)
Mine completely turned off all of the buttons below all the metals, but buttons above like the knobs are working, I think the ribbon pin inside was disconnected
what about the welding process? How do I replace the existing and malfunctioning switch for the new one?
Great video. My pod x3 live only woks with the wah pedal pressed on. Do you know how I could fix it ?
what type of switch i have to buy to fix this problem?
ty
nice. but my x3 live also have problems with the rotary knob on input and the arrow buttons on edit. how to disassemble those parts to clean? do you have any suggestions? thanks
where can you find replacement spring and pins, in the event that is part of my issue?
You can spray some contact cleaner on and under the switch before removing it from the board, which might solve your issue. I just did this to my old Shortboard MKii and it worked for me.
First of all, life saving stuff, thanx a mil! I will try this first procedure and see what the problem with mine really is.
Secondly, I would like to know the specs of the kind of switches you purchased: is there any specific name and/or brand you used? And why is that? Because I am from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Pretty major capital here in Brazil, I don't think I'll have any problems in finding them, but I would like to know if I could be the most specific I can with the local retailer to avoid any further problems.
My final question is on the welding process. You skipped that part in this video and I would like to see it to have an idea of what it really takes to replace, if necessary, the switches on my pedalboard. Can you help me with this one?
All the best and keep up your great work!
Does that work on the HD500 unit as well?
The switches on my Pod X3 have actuators around .92mm high. Jaycar offers these switches in 1.4mm or .7mm actuator height.
Total height of my Pod switches is 4mm. The kit in your description has switches with total height of 5mm.
I'm inclined to buy this kit because I'll get 280 switches for the price of 10 switches from Jaycar, but since I can't find an exact height match I don't know if going slightly taller or slightly shorter would be best. Your thoughts?
Thank you very much for this video! It is soooo awesome! A warning for noobs: if you are new soldering, be prepared to put in a few hours. Buying the parts is easy, but removing the old buttons can be "heck". I had to spend time removing the solder bit by bit (as much as I could), and ultimately, I used a pair of pliers to break off the tips - I then broke apart each button very carefully with those same pliers, and then used a drill with a very tiny bit to make a new hole through the old solder that refused to come off. I'm not a religious person, but I had to pray to Jesus twice (while begging "please") after putting on the new buttons to make sure they worked. My calls were answered. Good luck! (If anybody has a recommended desoldering video, please share!)
Hey.. I've X3 board myself it ain't coming on..
It was working just fine earlier and now it won't turn off.. My last switching off was done directly by mistake.. Could be it IC related?
@@kunal_k_ not sure what you mean. Is it not powering off or on?
@@ehenyor oh man! Typo..
I meant in my last session which was day before night, it was working just fine.. I unplugged it to charge my phone but did it directly from the main switch.. I tried to switch it on yesterday and now nothing is happening.. The board doesn't come on..
I'm guessing, since adapters are there to check on spikes surges in power, it could be the adapter that's faulty, unlesssssss.. 🤷🏻♂️
@@kunal_k_ yeah. In this case, I would check the adapter.
Nice one lads....do you know where you could buy these switches
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Hey guys! Thanks for the video!
I just got one used, and it has a similar problem, but on the upper row. Would I have to remove the connecting ribbon cable for it?
Also, probably due to shipping, the metal bar below the screen got loose. One of its ends has the screw below it loosely attached, but the other end is free. I hear something rolling inside, probably it's the screw that got loose. How would I fix it? I'm afraid to unscrew the main board.
Hey guys, thanks for the video! That's a nice production you got there.
I wanted to ask for advice about my POD X3 live. All my footswitches broke down at the same time and the leds won't turn on even if I toggle the effects manually from the main board. My expression pedal (with the wah toggle and everything) still works.
Do you think it's the flex that comes from the main board? If so, do you know a way of fixing it?
Just what I needed! Great vid. Thanks!!
Following my previous comment, I bought 6 micro switches from Jaycar ($1 each but, hey, Australia really IS the RIP-OFF COUNTRY, for EVERYTHING!!) and replaced the whole bottom row...
An hour later.......... It works like a DREAM !!!!
Thank you Guys!!!!
Thanks for the video. I was able to troubleshoot and fix my board with this
My HD500 takes a while for the upper footswitches to work, and my Bank Up footswitch stopped working at all, what should I do? I recently bought it
I was doing this procedure yesterday night and it was good at the beginning. I could replace the buttons for A, B, C and D and and now they are working fine. I had to do the same also for Stomp and Mod but when I was desoldering them the circuit was cut and I'm talking about this sticky tape in green. I tried to paste it togheter again or putting some soldering on it. Now Stomp, Mod, Delay and Comp are not working? Is there something to do with it? Thanks a lot
Hello. Thanks for the video. Is it the same to fix the wah footswitch? It stopped working on mine and I can't turn wah or or off with the switch underneath the pedal.
also i seem to have an issue with clicking the wah/volume pedal between functions. any help with that would be a god send of information. any advice you can offer please?
Hello....good video...do you have référence of switches..thanks...?
Good video man. thanks. Can you suggest any lubricant to stop the buttons from squeaking?
i would probably just use some key lubricant with a fine tip applicator. Or wd40 would probably work lol, unless you totally soaked the board, it shouldn't do much harm
hey guys, any links to the replacement switches ? thanks for the cool video !
Check the video description there are links. Thanks!
What is the actual part number? Mine has a issue with the tuner/tap button.
i am so on the fence about buying one of these even knowing about the switch issues but whats up with those capacitors, were those installed that way? are these things still worth overlooking the shitty build quality?
Good vid guys. Really helped me out here.
It was a great tutorial. I'm facing temporal loss in output with my X3 Live. Tried with several guitars but the problem is same. It'd be great if you could suggest some solution. :)
Have you found a solution yet? Tried messing with my X3 live a few months back and had the same problem.
Does anyone know how the main expression pedal 1 is connected to the circuit board ?
awesome job
If you can pick one up used for a good price, i would recommend it. There is nothing wrong with the capacitors, that is exactly how it was built, we never touched them. The fact that they are bent is nothing to worry about. And yes they are worth overlooking the build quality as long as you pick one of these up for a good deal! Thanks for watching!
I have pod xt live we got same problem with the pod x3 live
could you inform me of the measures of foot, please, thks
Thank you for sharing now I'm ready in case this thing happens
Thanks a lot, great Video, my POD still runs again.
Hi do you know how to run the x3 live so i have the sound of my real amp but the fx from the x3 live.
If your amp has FX Send and Return ports, try to connect it to POD X3 Live with 4 Cable Method. I did it with my Mesa amp.
Do you guys have a 'Jaycar' store in the US? I'm wondering if they have the little button parts that I MAY need to replace. Otherwise I'll try my luck at a hardware store
We don't have those stores in the US. You can find the buttons cheap on eBay or also most electronics stores!
+TheKMZ1 ok sweet, eBay it is then!
Thanks!! I fixed my almost dead pod hd 300!
My expersion pedal not working!!
Mine has the same thing over tap and comp buttons, i have tried to putting a push button over those tring to see if it´s works but nothing. Do you thinks is something wrong with the mainboard?
I would still suspect the buttons. maybe the solder joints are cracked and not making a connection still?
Can someone just tell me how to pull up the preset effects and put four of them on the four buttons to use while playing. Everywhere including the manual seems to think everyone just wants to make their own and focuses on that.
Is it possible to replace the up-down buttons near the display? My X3 suddenly enters into the edit mode and moving the parameters, seems the "down" button damaged.
Yeah you can
Do you have some howto guide?
When I tested the switches one of the bulbs started flashing and wouldn't stop. What do I do if the whole board is bad? What do I call the switches when I go to the hardware store? Thanks very much!
If your board is completely bad, then there is not a lot you can do. Although unless you have really abused it or have gotten water damage, i would think that the board is still good. Remove power from the board to get the light to stop. They are called momentary push buttons, or tactical switches. You'll need these www.ebay.com/itm/100-Pcs-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-Momentary-6x6x5mm-4-Pin-DIP-/331494892517?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d2ea2a3e5
TheKMZ1 Thanks very much - I'll try getting the switches.
mines keeps going into edit mode almost like theres a faulty switch thats sticking on. ANy ideas? I was going to maybe use some cleaner.
Very good man godbless you !
Is there a name for the specific type of switch? I'm having a hard time finding how to order them.
+xTheOxx They are called momentary push buttons, SMD mount 4 pin type. Here is a link to ebay, hope this helps www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-Tactile-Push-Button-Tact-Switch-Momentary-6x6x4-3mm-4-pin-DIP-Through-Hole-/121918399233?hash=item1c62e72301:g:wCYAAOSwmmxW35ti
Thanks!
TheKMZ1 It helps a LOT! Now I know exactly what to look for at my local electronics parts warehouse.
@@TheKMZ1 Thanks! And this seller still has them, and the link still works.
@@TheKMZ1 cool bro
thanks. now I can fix mine. leave it to line6 to ruin a $400 unit with a 25cent switch. love mine but the switches always fail at the worst time
thank you
Thx a lot!!
Thank's man !
hey, could someone please help me out
I'm having same problem with my boss me 80(od/DS) footswitch button
Great helpful video. Amazing that a product so expensive used crappy switches like these. Line 6 designers should be ashamed for such poor product parts selection. Built in redundancy by design. Note all line 6 product from early day are no longer supported. Line 6 had the chance to be a great company but ruined their reputation via poor customer focus.
Hey are you still here?
My X3 board power ain't coming on! Right at the nick of time needed most.
Any inputs?
Same here, im about to check whats going on inside. The power cable is working fine cause I tested it and its doing fine :(
@@EzeRazor hope it ain't much =( fill me in how it goes when you do check it out..
I had to make emergency home travel so left my adapter & processor, both.. I'm yet to check so hope when I'm back that it's only the adapter, not the board itself =/
@@kunal_k_ hi, its being checked by someone i trust right now. I could noticed that the inside looks just fine. I will come back with updates and see if i can help you with some feedback. If it works again im gonna clean the hell out of the footswitches :)
@@EzeRazor hey, yea if insides are looking fine, maybe it'd be a small matter n hopefully fix it up.. As for me, I'll be in suspense for quite a while till I reach my other place back in the other city. Do fill me in, thanks =)
Haha, those switches after a good considerable gap does need some good cleaning, and I saw some other vid on tube that shows how to fix those buttons as well, just in case
@@kunal_k_ Seems like it was a capacitor apparently , I mean that was what the technician said,.. so its back working just perfect!! Now its time to get some contact cleaning to bring my footswitches back to life. I did check the momentary switches and seems like you really need to push them (i used my nails) clearly and solid and that way will activate just right away which makes my thinkg that the external footswitch is not working due to the lack of a contact cleaning service lol. I will come back with updates once I do that, maybe it will help others my feedback cause until this video i never though that I could have the switches back again 100%.
Anyone else have big issues trying to get the green footswitch plate off? Mine are super stubborn and scared to pull on it too much. As you said, they come up super easy. Not mine lol
do it in a warm day
On my POD HD300 it's a bad micro switch (doesn't click). Gonna have to replace it with Line 6 part number 24-31-1105. You can get it on amprepairparts dot com.
All shit6 products use 6mm tactile switches.
lol - shit6. I recently successfully replaced the switch. Line6 should definitely come up with a different switch/board design because the one they've been using is destined to fail with continued use. It's ridiculous to ask such a flimsy internal component to withstand prolonged foot stomping even if it's consistently considered foot "tapping"!
id look so ahrd all over the line 6 page, and fb and coulnt find an answer, i thougth ive fucked it up using wrong gearbox jaja
Those shitty microswitches would need to be replaced with proper buttons... Defective design.
In my case it's not the switch that stopped working but that transparent plastic grips stopped keeping pcb in place. Those grips are the weakest link.
Thanks for this Posting. I can't tell you what a help this will be to repair my switches on my Pod X3 Live unit. CAN YOU PLEASE POST ME THE PART NUMBER FOR THE SWITCHES AND THE SWITCH COVERS AND WHERE THEY CAN BE PURCHASED . THANKS SO MUCH FOR ANY INFORMATION BUT MOST OF ALL FOR THE POSTING!!! RERUN_LIVES
Line 6 part number 24-31-1105 ( QN172384 )
SWITCH TACT 6mm SQ- 4PIN TH
TACT SWITCH, 6mm X 6mm. 1.5mm PLUNGER HEIGHT -switch body 3.0mm tall (without actuator).
6mm x 6mm square (1/4" x 1/4"). Body of switch is 3.0mm tall (without plunger). Plunger extends 1.5mm above top of switch.= 6mm x 6mm x 4.5mm works also.