From one computer engineer to another, can't thank you enough for this video! I followed your example in the video and just finished successfully replacing the pads in my '05 Corolla. Worked like a charm, and my braking action is perfect.
@ 3:01, instead of propping up the caliper compressor with a socket, you can span the old, dead brake pad over the cylinder in the caliper. it also compresses it more evenly than the concentrated pressure point of a narrow clamp or compressor.
A few things I would do differently or at least mention, 1) Replace the metal shims and apply a little anti-seize. 2) Replace or have the rotor turned. 3) Remove the brake caliper guide pins, clean them up, and apply a brake caliper lubricant (not anti-seize). 4) Inspect the caliper guide pin boots, replace if required. 5) Clean the hub / caliper / piston (prior to pushing it back in) with a wire brush and brake cleaner 6) Apply anti-seize to the hub face (to prevent the rotor from rusting on) 7) Mention torque specifics for caliper guide pins, and bracket bolts. 8) Mention that the brakes should be pumped up prior to driving the car. Other than the above, semi-good video.
I have one. It is a 2006 just like this one. It was recalled twice. Once because the accelerator was sticking, so they had to replace the computer, and once because it had a takata air bag. Either flaw could kill someone. When they replaced my airbag the mechanic broke a special bolt of which the dealership had no replacement. In fact no one had the replacement bolt, because it was a part every mechanic broke, every time, so suddenly Toyota needed to manufacture millions of them. So with my car apart and no means of putting it back together, the dealership "needed" to keep it for three months. So it depends on what you mean when you say "reliable." Mine could have killed someone, and was off the road for three straight months due to a manufacturer defect. Otherwise these cars are great.
Guppypants Hes referring to the engine and the car in general, almost every car has had recalls. My sister passed on her 2006 Toyota Corolla to me. It’s been from San Diego to West Virginia to San Francisco back to West Virginia and then back down to San Diego and still runs strong 💪
I have a late 2005 (55) 1.6 vvti corolla hatchback with 120k on the clock, I have done 20k so far since purchase and nothing but one very minor issue. The power steering goes off if you reverse full lock turn, I'm sure it's some kinda safety mechanism to save your power steering from somehow breaking, anyway this happened a few times, I was about to get it checked and it turns out all you gotta do is turn off the car and turn it back on again, power steering goes light again and back to normal, hah believe me I was relieved to know I wouldn't have to fork out upto 1k to replace the power steering column. It's a car I will keep until it's uneconomical to repair. 120k is nothing on these, its basically just breaking in, I'd expect most pre Auris Corolla's will get 250k easy peasy, there are reports of these with 600k even 800k on the clock. Auris was built with a much lower and cheaper build quality all round, more European not Japanese so much, but the new Corolla is back up to standards and after 2018 they sorted out the main problems with the gearbox and stuff. Good car (very good car)
Great video! Very informative. I'm about to change the pads on my fiancée's 06 Corolla as well. Only tip I would add for people is if you had your brake fluid topped off when your pads were worn down, when you compress the piston back into the caliper there may be excess fluid that overflows the brake fluid reservoir. Just keep an eye on it when you do that step.
Made it look simple, and doable. Much appreciated, and helpful, to those of us who are on the, intimidation threshold, and wishing to get over. Looks like the anti-squeal shims were not, re-installed, or added, as new brake hardware, along with the new pads. Did 'squeals' come later? Or maybe dirt, dust cling to the exposed grease?
Car fixin is something to be snobby about, ha. So mind the smart comments... but yeah, lemme pitch in something I've learned. To push the piston back, try using the old brake pads! Put an old brake pad between the piston and the tool/clamp, and the tool/clamp will push the brake pad back, pushing the piston back. Works pretty nice.
Yep, use the thing that can be found with ratchet things to push the caliper thingy back. The key is to find what things work best for the thing that pushes other things back where they're supposed to go. Hey crystalcleargame, that was straight forward and helpful to more people out there than you probably know. If your girlfriend is coming home everyday in one piece then you have succeeded. Thumbs up for attempting a mechanical job you've never done and getting it done. And yes it's funny when tools or parts are referred to as "thingy" or "contraption" or "doo-hicky" because one's experience might be limited. I joke too. But I better have the ball to at least attempt a job task that is foreign to my skill set. (Look stupid while trying too)
I will be changing the brake pads of my 2008 corolla, and this video really helps, thanks for sharing. what's the reason again on why put grease at the back of the pads? my pads came with shims that are not yet installed on the pads. should i install the shims on the pads after putting grease?
Pretty good video but a couple things not clear. Before collapsing the caliper piston you have to open the system either by removing the cap from the master cylinder or opening the bleeder valve. Put a rag around the master cylinder as some fluid may spill over the opening. After replacing the pads you need to pump the pedal to put pressure back on the system. Driving the car before doing this will result in scaring the shit out of you or worse. Also: - Always check the rotors for grooves, replace or turn them down if they have them - Be careful not to get any of that lubricant on the pad surface or rotor surface
if is only a push back piston , you only need a big C clamp with the old pad to push back.... Folks is all about make it cheap and easy ! I am here just to know if this car had only push back piston... grease is important for the caliper parts that push the brakes.... good video. thanks
I understand that everyone has a different idea about how to do any job on a car "the right way". But I wish you had at least mentioned machining or replacing rotors and also talked about bleeding brakes. Good video though and I'm sure it will help a lot of people out.
You should A-L-W-A-Y-S turn the rotors or replace them depending upon thickness. No, do not use lube on back of silencer shim - just on pad ends and caliper slide bolts.
informative and amusing. thank you for sharing! i'll be changing my bro's brakes. he might be just as bad with his car as your gf. it sounds like the damn wheels are going to fall off.
You should remove the cap from the master cylinder before pushing the piston into the caliper and you did not put the anti-squeak shims back on the pad. Once you finish, start the motor and pump the brakes.
damn could have saved myself a good bit of money. and time this weekend. If i still have this car when its time to change pads again, im gonna atleast try to do it myself. dont know about the shoes in the back though
not to bad of a video. but i suggest u get a torque wrench when tightening the bolts through out the whole process you do not want them coming lose or breaking if they are too tight or too loose. and yea your suppose to leave that plate on.
You didnt clean the brake carrier before the new pads. New pads can seize otherwise. And you can just us a flat screwdriver to push the piston back in bore removing the caliper.
"Piece of crap" ? look buster, this is the most reliable car I've ever had. Mine has 219,366 miles on it and I've never had to put a dime into it other than the normal maintenance, tires, brakes, oil change etc. Sounds to me like your just a hater and your probably just mad that your mom's Corolla has lasted longer than your car
A lot of newer pads don't come with any shims because they are not needed. If they come with new shims I'd use them and if they don't I wouldn't use the old ones.
You should check your reservoir to make sure it wont overflow when you push the piston back in. If you've ever added fluid, it will be overflowing when you push the piston back in. Also the metal plates you took off make noise when you need to replace the pads again. If you take them off, you won't get a warning until you ruin your rotors.
haha 'piece of crap' everyone who watches this just about, has one of these. why do think they're watching it? i have one and it is kind of a piece of crap but it is super reliable.
Sorry to burst your "reliable" bubble, but I have a 2006 just like this one. Read my above lengthy reply to a similar comment. I have owned many cars to which I compare this one, and have never had such a lousy car, including my 1996 Geo Metro which still runs great. These were not random lemon law issue flaws, these were both deadly known manufacturer defects which affected millions of cars. So there's that.
Because he plans on dumping his girlfriend by the time these pads wear out. That way she'll have no way of knowing she needs new ones and will then die in a fiery car crash.
I just want to point out that he clearly said he is not a mechanic and most of you emphasized on his mistakes, really? I want to ask all of you that made these kind of comments one question how many are real mechanics, certified mechanics I mean? There are mannesrs to state other people.s flaws in a constructive way. I am going to level with you and give a spoonful of your own, just look at your comments, some of you can't even spell. In conclusion next time you sweep the stairs start at the top
Unsafe procedure, the installer failed to install safety stands, if the hydraulic bottle neck jack slides off the sub frame, it may cause serious injuries.
Replaced the pads with BIG mistakes, the grease is not for the pads, it is for the back calipers that slide in and out to keep them moving. when he was cleaning with brake pad cleaner he should have cleaned more from the back also. if the grease melts it will go on the rotors and between the pads and rotor that is bad. secondly the pads had metal plates that he took off to apply grease. those metal plates should go over the pads like there were there. Do not post wrong instructions video.
How dare you. The Corolla last longer than any car on the road with the fewest miles. I have owned two and they both lasted me 10 years each and went over 200,000 miles with very few problems.
If your not going to turn the rotors or replace them you shouldn't be performing this type of surgery. Stopping at 60 MPH on uneven rotors will cause the car to shake violently. Just Sayin
Clarification. I called the car a piece o' crap because it belongs to my gf, not because it is a Corolla. This car is abused more than a truck stop restroom. Will be lucky to see 200k.
From one computer engineer to another, can't thank you enough for this video! I followed your example in the video and just finished successfully replacing the pads in my '05 Corolla. Worked like a charm, and my braking action is perfect.
@ 3:01, instead of propping up the caliper compressor with a socket, you can span the old, dead brake pad over the cylinder in the caliper. it also compresses it more evenly than the concentrated pressure point of a narrow clamp or compressor.
A few things I would do differently or at least mention,
1) Replace the metal shims and apply a little anti-seize.
2) Replace or have the rotor turned.
3) Remove the brake caliper guide pins, clean them up, and apply a brake caliper lubricant (not anti-seize).
4) Inspect the caliper guide pin boots, replace if required.
5) Clean the hub / caliper / piston (prior to pushing it back in) with a wire brush and brake cleaner
6) Apply anti-seize to the hub face (to prevent the rotor from rusting on)
7) Mention torque specifics for caliper guide pins, and bracket bolts.
8) Mention that the brakes should be pumped up prior to driving the car.
Other than the above, semi-good video.
He also shouldn't have removed the shim plate/backing from the pad. Lots of mistakes and omissions in this overall terrible video.
thank you brake job took me less than 15 mins, watched for a bit then figured out i didnt need too finish it, just neded a re-fresher! thanks!
Sir, you didn't put the clips on the pads!
"piece of crap" do you not know how reliable those things are? like seriously?
I have one. It is a 2006 just like this one. It was recalled twice. Once because the accelerator was sticking, so they had to replace the computer, and once because it had a takata air bag. Either flaw could kill someone. When they replaced my airbag the mechanic broke a special bolt of which the dealership had no replacement. In fact no one had the replacement bolt, because it was a part every mechanic broke, every time, so suddenly Toyota needed to manufacture millions of them. So with my car apart and no means of putting it back together, the dealership "needed" to keep it for three months. So it depends on what you mean when you say "reliable." Mine could have killed someone, and was off the road for three straight months due to a manufacturer defect. Otherwise these cars are great.
I have a TC 2006 that also had the airbag replaced. Took it in the morning, had it by noon. No problems since. Touch wood!
Guppypants Hes referring to the engine and the car in general, almost every car has had recalls.
My sister passed on her 2006 Toyota Corolla to me. It’s been from San Diego to West Virginia to San Francisco back to West Virginia and then back down to San Diego and still runs strong 💪
I have a late 2005 (55) 1.6 vvti corolla hatchback with 120k on the clock, I have done 20k so far since purchase and nothing but one very minor issue. The power steering goes off if you reverse full lock turn, I'm sure it's some kinda safety mechanism to save your power steering from somehow breaking, anyway this happened a few times, I was about to get it checked and it turns out all you gotta do is turn off the car and turn it back on again, power steering goes light again and back to normal, hah believe me I was relieved to know I wouldn't have to fork out upto 1k to replace the power steering column. It's a car I will keep until it's uneconomical to repair. 120k is nothing on these, its basically just breaking in, I'd expect most pre Auris Corolla's will get 250k easy peasy, there are reports of these with 600k even 800k on the clock. Auris was built with a much lower and cheaper build quality all round, more European not Japanese so much, but the new Corolla is back up to standards and after 2018 they sorted out the main problems with the gearbox and stuff. Good car (very good car)
@@Guppypants Those are manufacturing defects. He is talking about reliability of working functional parts that do not need to be changed in general.
Great video! Very informative. I'm about to change the pads on my fiancée's 06 Corolla as well. Only tip I would add for people is if you had your brake fluid topped off when your pads were worn down, when you compress the piston back into the caliper there may be excess fluid that overflows the brake fluid reservoir. Just keep an eye on it when you do that step.
This guy forgot to tell everyone after you done installing your breaks to pump up the breaks before you even move your car
……brakes**…. 🤷♂️
Made it look simple, and doable. Much appreciated, and helpful, to those of us who are on the, intimidation threshold, and wishing to get over. Looks like the anti-squeal shims were not, re-installed, or added, as new brake hardware, along with the new pads. Did 'squeals' come later? Or maybe dirt, dust cling to the exposed grease?
Thanks, followed this end everything worked out great.
Compress the piston using the old brake pad. That way you dont have to use that socket next time.
Should you do that even if your brake pad has no pad left?
please make more videos. you are a delight to listen to and very funny. we also have a crappy Corolla.
Car fixin is something to be snobby about, ha. So mind the smart comments... but yeah, lemme pitch in something I've learned. To push the piston back, try using the old brake pads! Put an old brake pad between the piston and the tool/clamp, and the tool/clamp will push the brake pad back, pushing the piston back. Works pretty nice.
Yep, use the thing that can be found with ratchet things to push the caliper thingy back. The key is to find what things work best for the thing that pushes other things back where they're supposed to go. Hey crystalcleargame, that was straight forward and helpful to more people out there than you probably know. If your girlfriend is coming home everyday in one piece then you have succeeded. Thumbs up for attempting a mechanical job you've never done and getting it done. And yes it's funny when tools or parts are referred to as "thingy" or "contraption" or "doo-hicky" because one's experience might be limited. I joke too. But I better have the ball to at least attempt a job task that is foreign to my skill set. (Look stupid while trying too)
+Wesley Matheny Better yet, two balls.
Lmao, damn! That rant got sloppy. Nuts, balls or any other term used in this case has to come in a set;-)
I will be changing the brake pads of my 2008 corolla, and this video really helps, thanks for sharing. what's the reason again on why put grease at the back of the pads? my pads came with shims that are not yet installed on the pads. should i install the shims on the pads after putting grease?
Hysterical. Thanks for the video. It helped me save money.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
You should remove the cap from the master cylinder before compressing the caliper piston.
is it necessary to take the clip off from the back of the brake pad?
Pretty good video but a couple things not clear. Before collapsing the caliper piston you have to open the system either by removing the cap from the master cylinder or opening the bleeder valve. Put a rag around the master cylinder as some fluid may spill over the opening.
After replacing the pads you need to pump the pedal to put pressure back on the system. Driving the car before doing this will result in scaring the shit out of you or worse.
Also:
- Always check the rotors for grooves, replace or turn them down if they have them
- Be careful not to get any of that lubricant on the pad surface or rotor surface
if is only a push back piston , you only need a big C clamp with the old pad to push back.... Folks is all about make it cheap and easy ! I am here just to know if this car had only push back piston... grease is important for the caliper parts that push the brakes.... good video. thanks
Those metal backs ? Those anti squeal shim?
The man clearly started he is not a mechanic, be gratious enough and elaborate the mans efforts to make this video available.
open the bleeding valve when you press the caliber piston
So many guys/girls who perform this job, and never open bleeding valve. Crazy
What is the socket size for the caliper bolt?
I understand that everyone has a different idea about how to do any job on a car "the right way". But I wish you had at least mentioned machining or replacing rotors and also talked about bleeding brakes. Good video though and I'm sure it will help a lot of people out.
thanks for the video.
wonderful. thanks a lot
You should A-L-W-A-Y-S turn the rotors or replace them depending upon thickness. No, do not use lube on back of silencer shim - just on pad ends and caliper slide bolts.
Thanks for the video, corolla 2006 brakes shoes are the same for corolla 2006 S, i meant it fit?
Yrs
informative and amusing. thank you for sharing! i'll be changing my bro's brakes. he might be just as bad with his car as your gf. it sounds like the damn wheels are going to fall off.
we own one and it is better then 80% of the cars out there so
yes he took off the shim it is necessary to prevent brake pad sticking to the caliper
You should remove the cap from the master cylinder before pushing the piston into the caliper and you did not put the anti-squeak shims back on the pad. Once you finish, start the motor and pump the brakes.
damn could have saved myself a good bit of money. and time this weekend. If i still have this car when its time to change pads again, im gonna atleast try to do it myself. dont know about the shoes in the back though
not to bad of a video. but i suggest u get a torque wrench when tightening the bolts through out the whole process you do not want them coming lose or breaking if they are too tight or too loose. and yea your suppose to leave that plate on.
Those are ridiculous reliable. I have one!
I do too; a 2006 just like this. It's a POS. Read my above relpy to a similar comment to yours.
You didnt clean the brake carrier before the new pads. New pads can seize otherwise. And you can just us a flat screwdriver to push the piston back in bore removing the caliper.
I man handled the fuck out that brake caliper! All I used was a screwdriver and some muscle 💪
"Piece of crap" ? look buster, this is the most reliable car I've ever had. Mine has 219,366 miles on it and I've never had to put a dime into it other than the normal maintenance, tires, brakes, oil change etc. Sounds to me like your just a hater and your probably just mad that your mom's Corolla has lasted longer than your car
A lot of newer pads don't come with any shims because they are not needed. If they come with new shims I'd use them and if they don't I wouldn't use the old ones.
Or, can use a flat bent head screw driver and squeeze piston in while caliper is still in place, then take off bolt and wallahhhhh..
You forgot to mention that you need to pump the brake until its solid with the engine off.
You should check your reservoir to make sure it wont overflow when you push the piston back in. If you've ever added fluid, it will be overflowing when you push the piston back in.
Also the metal plates you took off make noise when you need to replace the pads again. If you take them off, you won't get a warning until you ruin your rotors.
She'll kill someone first when her brakes fail.
c-clamps work a lot better
haha 'piece of crap' everyone who watches this just about, has one of these. why do think they're watching it? i have one and it is kind of a piece of crap but it is super reliable.
ahyaok100 indeed. super reliable and will last forever
Sorry to burst your "reliable" bubble, but I have a 2006 just like this one. Read my above lengthy reply to a similar comment. I have owned many cars to which I compare this one, and have never had such a lousy car, including my 1996 Geo Metro which still runs great. These were not random lemon law issue flaws, these were both deadly known manufacturer defects which affected millions of cars. So there's that.
OK. But in this video I didnt see you put ANY shims, neither new nor old. If I'm wrong than excuse me!
Stop lying fool! That's yo car.... jk haha thanks for the video ese 😎
Does anybody have an idea why author didn't put back an anti-squeal shims that he removed before lubricating brake pads?
Because he plans on dumping his girlfriend by the time these pads wear out. That way she'll have no way of knowing she needs new ones and will then die in a fiery car crash.
@@Guppypants you're an asshole,hahah
when you do this make sure you torque your lug nuts😭
I like my piece of crap, and your girlfriend parks way to close to the curb by the looks of the scrapes.
looking for how to adjust hand brake on corolla verso any one help ? thanx
You cant.
I just want to point out that he clearly said he is not a mechanic and most of you emphasized on his mistakes, really? I want to ask all of you that made these kind of comments one question how many are real mechanics, certified mechanics I mean? There are mannesrs to state other people.s flaws in a constructive way. I am going to level with you and give a spoonful of your own, just look at your comments, some of you can't even spell. In conclusion next time you sweep the stairs start at the top
I'm a mechanical engineer. And he did a very good job. But made a fee mistakes in the process. But every learner will do.
3:03 put old pad instead of socket…
Unsafe procedure, the installer failed to install safety stands, if the hydraulic bottle neck jack slides off the sub frame, it may cause serious injuries.
That's why you don't go under the car.
Amateur
Citroen Master Mechanic
Replaced the pads with BIG mistakes, the grease is not for the pads, it is for the back calipers that slide in and out to keep them moving. when he was cleaning with brake pad cleaner he should have cleaned more from the back also. if the grease melts it will go on the rotors and between the pads and rotor that is bad. secondly the pads had metal plates that he took off to apply grease. those metal plates should go over the pads like there were there. Do not post wrong instructions video.
How dare you. The Corolla last longer than any car on the road with the fewest miles. I have owned two and they both lasted me 10 years each and went over 200,000 miles with very few problems.
Hey I think you replied to the wrong person.
If your not going to turn the rotors or replace them you shouldn't be performing this type of surgery. Stopping at 60 MPH on uneven rotors will cause the car to shake violently. Just Sayin
Clarification. I called the car a piece o' crap because it belongs to my gf, not because it is a Corolla. This car is abused more than a truck stop restroom. Will be lucky to see 200k.
10 min job max
Is she still your girlfriend?