Very nice explanation and guidence, I do own an agfa isolette lll model with un coupled rangefinder and superb ,3.5 solinar lens. The performence is marvelous,with needle sharp sharpness, and amazing colour saturation. Though it is a 1956 model, still after over 66 years it looks perfect like new, those days it was a marvel and younger brother of super isolette. I am thankful for Mr Peter for his high lighting this old Agfa Gem. I prefer agfa brands and have three top agfa cameras. Thanks Peter. S KPareek BHARAT.
Video is from nine years ago. I hope Peter is well. I have one of those and love it for the non-coupled rangefinder and small size. Just ordered another as a backup.
Thanks for making this instructive video Peter, I really appreciate it. This Christmas my son gifted me an Agfa Isolette II - manufactured 1954 as indeed was I. Lovely camera, now, having watched your video, I know how to use it! (and no range finder to confuse me, ha). It's a neat camera, very portable and a fine piece of engineering craftsmanship.
+Ronnie Maclellan : What a great Christmas Present !! I usually get 'smellies' or pairs of socks ! Glad to have been of help -- my Isolette III is loaded with 120 Fuji RMS slide film at the moment.
Well done. I hadn't realised that letting the bellows out too quickly would may affect the film plane, so that is a good tip. I always treat mine correctly for reasons of mechanical sympathy... I like the photo at the end. I also have the Isolette iii but with an Apotar lens - a fine camera
Thanks for viewing and Comment === yes, with all these 'Folders' you need to let bellows out SLOWLY -- I have several Ensign Selfixes to show sometime on here.
Thanks for viewing -- I could not believe HOW SHARP that lens is -- I have done 16x12" Enlargements for Brentwood Photographic Club and won a couple of awards.
Love these old folders pete I have couple a ferania falco 2 lovely camera from 1948 and a Zeiss Ikon which I’ve not used yet. Enjoyed that video mate and a cracking historic photograph
Hi, Peter I'd like to thank you for this video (and the other informative and entertaining photography-related videos on your UA-cam channel). I've just bought and am currently waiting for an Agfa Isolette III I bought from Jurgen Kreckel in the States, who specialises in these cameras (the one I bought has recently been CLA'd and fitted with new bellows and a Compur-Rapid Solinar shutter/lens). I'm looking forward to shooting it, as I've been looking at your Flickr Album which features pictures you've taken with your Isolette, particularly the 1940s re-enactment photos at Kidderminster, which I think are outstanding. (If I can take images anywhere near as good as these with my Agfa I'll be delighted.) I look forward to seeing more of your photos on Flickr (and your videos here on UA-cam). Best regards. Bob
Hallo Bob : so kind words for my efforts ! Yes- I have used it again recently but found the focus movement was 'frozen' and all were out of focus -- so I had a go and took off the three very small screws on focus mount then unscrewed front component and very carefully painted a small amount of WD40 into the join and suddenly it freed up and I could move the two front lens elements and get it to focus again !
@@theoldfilmbloke That is exact the same issue I have with my Agfa Isolette III. Thank for the tip. Thought abuot the same but unfortunately I have already a film inside ...so to finish that roll I will just use a sharp little tool to help me moving the range finder wheel.
This camera was sold in several versions with different lenses and shutters. This is the nicest version, with the 4 element Solinar lens, a Zeiss Tessar copy which is generally considered to be better than a Tessar, plus the Synchro-Compur shutter, probably the best of its day. The most common lesser version, made to sell at a much lower price, has a three element Apotar lens, which is sharp enough and very usable at apertures around f 8.0. It also has a Prontor shutter with more limited speed choices. Otherwise, the body is very simply designed and made, lacking the convenience features of many folders of the period, like auto stop on the film advance or a coupled rangefinder.. The most common problem for the camera, which it shared with a variety of Agfa cameras of the period, was the use of whale oil in the focus lubrication. Over time it solidifies and literally glues the focus setting in one position - very hard to repair without breaking the mechanism. Agfa also sold the camera in the US under the Ansco. The Agfa branded version used a very reliable leather bellows. The Ansco versions used a plastic bellows material which always broke and leaks light. I was fortunate to find a damaged Agfa version in a camera shop junk bin for a few dollars, from which I took the bellows to replace the one in my Ansco body, which was full of holes.
Thanks for you very thorough information -- yes mine has leather bellows no leaks ! I did wipe a minute amount of Neatsfoot Oil onto the bellows and lubricated the struts.
Its such a gorgeous camera. And that picture was so clean and sharp. I recently came into possession of the original model of the Isolette, but unfortunately it appears the focusing ring is stuck (I assume the old lubrication dried up). I'd love to be able to take this camera out for a test ride, but I dare not try fixing it myself, as I know very little about cameras, let alone the one I have.
Thanks for the very detailed video. I have a question regarding the viewfinder, how close is what you see through it to the actual picture taken? I mean, for composition, is the viewfinder offset from the lens and you have to compensate (guestimate)? Thanks in advance for your help!
Peter Elgar great, thanks for the reply. Excuse my naivety, but what are the mechanics that make it see a similar field of view as the lens, given that it is offset by quite a distance?
@@samsstreets8684 Viewfinder 'mechanics' not sure what you mean -- but the shape and size are made to approximate shape and size of negative and are accurate enough for most use .
brilliant, many thx. I've just been donated one of these. Its in great condition. I've freed up the range finder wheel but I'm not convinced by the distance readings I'm getting. any thoughts?
Remember the distances are in METERS -- I have slipped up on that in the past ! Mine are accurate -- if you have a meter measure you can check by measuring to the film plane from the subject and after taking a Rangefinder reading.
My model has the Apotar 1:4 lens which is in "Feet" as impressed on the ring. the graduations on the lens correspond with the values on the rangefinder.
Peter, I discovered an old Agfa Apotar camera it also had text reading "PRONTOR-SVS. I am not quite sure how to handle it and I'm worried trying to find out how to will lead to me breaking it... Could you give me any advice?
Declan : The shutter on you one is made by a different German company from the Synchro-Compur on mine but they are similar. It will have the 'X' and 'M' flash settings and usually a 'V' setting which is the delayed action -- you must set the shutter spring FIRST then push the lever to 'V' if you want to use the delayed action. Other advice -- just be careful how you OPEN the camera -- do it very slowly so the bellows leather is not stretched suddenly and will pull the film out of the film plane. Gently clean the lens front and back with lens tissue and a little lens fluid on some tissue and clean the viewfinder the same.
Dear peter, I picked up a AGFA Isolette III with the apotar lens and prontor-s shutter. I havernt had chance yet to get out and use it yet but im already loving that you have to work to get a good photo. Great videos, and just a quick question, I was looking at other cameras like the British ensigns selfixes are these harder/easier to use than a Isolette, looking at the viewfinders they seem fiddaly to use. Ow and can you recommend any other British folding cameras I could look into,
Thanks for viewing ! Well, I have done a Video on three British Ensign 'Selfix' cameras with print results shown at the end,if you have not already viewed it . Because the Great British Public were 'camera-starved' during and after the War most cameras went to the Armed Services, specially made and ordinary people could not get them until about 1953 whenI got my Ensign Selfix -- the only other British cameras were made by the MPP ( Micro-Precision-Products) Company and they made 4x5 large format cameras then started a 6x6 format one the 'Microcord' and later 'Microflex' -- I remember seeing them sold off NEW when MPP went broke ( as did ALL Britsh Camera makers) and Dixons were selling the Microflex for £ 27 -00
Very nice explanation and guidence, I do own an agfa isolette lll model with un coupled rangefinder and superb ,3.5 solinar lens. The performence is marvelous,with needle sharp sharpness, and amazing colour saturation. Though it is a 1956 model, still after over 66 years it looks perfect like new, those days it was a marvel and younger brother of super isolette. I am thankful for Mr Peter for his high lighting this old Agfa Gem. I prefer agfa brands and have three top agfa cameras. Thanks Peter. S KPareek BHARAT.
Video is from nine years ago. I hope Peter is well. I have one of those and love it for the non-coupled rangefinder and small size. Just ordered another as a backup.
Informative little demonstration; thanks. Lovely folder that.
i have one of this camera, and thank you for your video, greetings from germany :)
Thanks for making this instructive video Peter, I really appreciate it. This Christmas my son gifted me an Agfa Isolette II - manufactured 1954 as indeed was I. Lovely camera, now, having watched your video, I know how to use it! (and no range finder to confuse me, ha). It's a neat camera, very portable and a fine piece of engineering craftsmanship.
+Ronnie Maclellan : What a great Christmas Present !! I usually get 'smellies' or pairs of socks ! Glad to have been of help -- my Isolette III is loaded with 120 Fuji RMS slide film at the moment.
Wow Awesome 💯
Thank you! Cheers!
Well done. I hadn't realised that letting the bellows out too quickly would may affect the film plane, so that is a good tip. I always treat mine correctly for reasons of mechanical sympathy... I like the photo at the end.
I also have the Isolette iii but with an Apotar lens - a fine camera
Thanks for viewing and Comment === yes, with all these 'Folders' you need to let bellows out SLOWLY -- I have several Ensign Selfixes to show sometime on here.
Love your video, I myself am interested in one of these 6x6's, or possibly the Agfa Record 6x9. Thank you for posting :)
Thanks for viewing -- I could not believe HOW SHARP that lens is -- I have done 16x12" Enlargements for Brentwood Photographic Club and won a couple of awards.
Love these old folders pete I have couple a ferania falco 2 lovely camera from 1948 and a Zeiss Ikon which I’ve not used yet. Enjoyed that video mate and a cracking historic photograph
Thank you for explaining. Did not know how to focus in coresspondance with the range finder. Greetings from Poland.
Hi, Peter
I'd like to thank you for this video (and the other informative and entertaining photography-related videos on your UA-cam channel).
I've just bought and am currently waiting for an Agfa Isolette III I bought from Jurgen Kreckel in the States, who specialises in these cameras (the one I bought has recently been CLA'd and fitted with new bellows and a Compur-Rapid Solinar shutter/lens).
I'm looking forward to shooting it, as I've been looking at your Flickr Album which features pictures you've taken with your Isolette, particularly the 1940s re-enactment photos at Kidderminster, which I think are outstanding. (If I can take images anywhere near as good as these with my Agfa I'll be delighted.)
I look forward to seeing more of your photos on Flickr (and your videos here on UA-cam).
Best regards.
Bob
Hallo Bob : so kind words for my efforts ! Yes- I have used it again recently but found the focus movement was 'frozen' and all were out of focus -- so I had a go and took off the three very small screws on focus mount then unscrewed front component and very carefully painted a small amount of WD40 into the join and suddenly it freed up and I could move the two front lens elements and get it to focus again !
@@theoldfilmbloke That is exact the same issue I have with my Agfa Isolette III. Thank for the tip. Thought abuot the same but unfortunately I have already a film inside ...so to finish that roll I will just use a sharp little tool to help me moving the range finder wheel.
This camera was sold in several versions with different lenses and shutters. This is the nicest version, with the 4 element Solinar lens, a Zeiss Tessar copy which is generally considered to be better than a Tessar, plus the Synchro-Compur shutter, probably the best of its day. The most common lesser version, made to sell at a much lower price, has a three element Apotar lens, which is sharp enough and very usable at apertures around f 8.0. It also has a Prontor shutter with more limited speed choices. Otherwise, the body is very simply designed and made, lacking the convenience features of many folders of the period, like auto stop on the film advance or a coupled rangefinder.. The most common problem for the camera, which it shared with a variety of Agfa cameras of the period, was the use of whale oil in the focus lubrication. Over time it solidifies and literally glues the focus setting in one position - very hard to repair without breaking the mechanism. Agfa also sold the camera in the US under the Ansco. The Agfa branded version used a very reliable leather bellows. The Ansco versions used a plastic bellows material which always broke and leaks light. I was fortunate to find a damaged Agfa version in a camera shop junk bin for a few dollars, from which I took the bellows to replace the one in my Ansco body, which was full of holes.
Thanks for you very thorough information -- yes mine has leather bellows no leaks ! I did wipe a minute amount of Neatsfoot Oil onto the bellows and lubricated the struts.
Its such a gorgeous camera. And that picture was so clean and sharp. I recently came into possession of the original model of the Isolette, but unfortunately it appears the focusing ring is stuck (I assume the old lubrication dried up). I'd love to be able to take this camera out for a test ride, but I dare not try fixing it myself, as I know very little about cameras, let alone the one I have.
thanks for the very detailed information
Thanks for the very detailed video. I have a question regarding the viewfinder, how close is what you see through it to the actual picture taken? I mean, for composition, is the viewfinder offset from the lens and you have to compensate (guestimate)? Thanks in advance for your help!
Yes there will be a small Parallax error but I have not found it kicks in until you are about 1 meter away.
Peter Elgar great, thanks for the reply. Excuse my naivety, but what are the mechanics that make it see a similar field of view as the lens, given that it is offset by quite a distance?
@@samsstreets8684 Viewfinder 'mechanics' not sure what you mean -- but the shape and size are made to approximate shape and size of negative and are accurate enough for most use .
brilliant, many thx. I've just been donated one of these. Its in great condition. I've freed up the range finder wheel but I'm not convinced by the distance readings I'm getting. any thoughts?
Remember the distances are in METERS -- I have slipped up on that in the past ! Mine are accurate -- if you have a meter measure you can check by measuring to the film plane from the subject and after taking a Rangefinder reading.
My model has the Apotar 1:4 lens which is in "Feet" as impressed on the ring. the graduations on the lens correspond with the values on the rangefinder.
Peter, I discovered an old Agfa Apotar camera it also had text reading "PRONTOR-SVS. I am not quite sure how to handle it and I'm worried trying to find out how to will lead to me breaking it... Could you give me any advice?
Declan : The shutter on you one is made by a different German company from the Synchro-Compur on mine but they are similar. It will have the 'X' and 'M' flash settings and usually a 'V' setting which is the delayed action -- you must set the shutter spring FIRST then push the lever to 'V' if you want to use the delayed action. Other advice -- just be careful how you OPEN the camera -- do it very slowly so the bellows leather is not stretched suddenly and will pull the film out of the film plane.
Gently clean the lens front and back with lens tissue and a little lens fluid on some tissue and clean the viewfinder the same.
Peter Elgar Thanks for the advice, Peter!
Dear peter, I picked up a AGFA Isolette III with the apotar lens and prontor-s shutter. I havernt had chance yet to get out and use it yet but im already loving that you have to work to get a good photo.
Great videos, and just a quick question, I was looking at other cameras like the British ensigns selfixes are these harder/easier to use than a Isolette, looking at the viewfinders they seem fiddaly to use. Ow and can you recommend any other British folding cameras I could look into,
Thanks for viewing ! Well, I have done a Video on three British Ensign 'Selfix' cameras with print results shown at the end,if you have not already viewed it . Because the Great British Public were 'camera-starved' during and after the War most cameras went to the Armed Services, specially made and ordinary people could not get them until about 1953 whenI got my Ensign Selfix -- the only other British cameras were made by the MPP ( Micro-Precision-Products) Company and they made 4x5 large format cameras then started a 6x6 format one the 'Microcord' and later 'Microflex' -- I remember seeing them sold off NEW when MPP went broke ( as did ALL Britsh Camera makers) and Dixons were selling the Microflex for £ 27 -00