Great upload. I would have a field day working in your shop. I lucked out today and was doing some cleanup work and the owner had a 30+ year old battery charger that the owner generously gave me. I've been metal detecting,magnet fishing, and bottle hunting for 28 years+ so now that I have the right equipment I'm excited to do some electrolysis this afternoon.
Hi, For my purposes, I would add two 50V computer style caps to really smooth out the DC coming out of the charger and add a buck/boost regulator to control the voltage to what is needed at the time. I am a ham operator, and need to have constant current and constant voltage for some of the battery types I use. But your transformation of a charger to a DC voltage supply is novel to me. Interesting video!
I love the idea of adding a second positive lead, but I'd just put an on/off switch on it so I could turn that lead off when I just wanted to use the charger in smart mode to charge a battery. I hadn't thought of adding a third lead, but that's an awesome idea.
Interesting! I think I'd add ports and plugs on the case for the positive lead so I'd just have one positive lead I could plug in for "smart" or "dumb"charging. Or one could use a switch so positive lead led to the right spot, original or to the whole plate. If I have this correct? Since most "smart" chargers won't charge a very dead or weak battery I'd like to sometimes be able to do some "dumb" charging. So, I found the video helpful for that reason too! What was the deal with your manual switch setting? I've heard some "smart" chargers have some kind of override but most don't. It's rather maddening when your voltage is too low to run the charger...it's kind of crazy if you ask me...
Couldn't you just tap into that 12v lead, leave the circuit board in place, and run that tapped wire thru a switch and then connect it to the rectifier? Then you would have a full manual/automatic charger with amp gauge lights. Right?
Be careful putting brass and aluminum together! Or copper and aluminum. They tend to react with each other by galvanic action and cause corrosion. Not good. It does take some time for it to show, but it will unless you use some petroleum jelly in the connection to keep oxygen from getting into the connection. Same goes for battery posts and battery clamps, brush the post with the "vaseline" jelly before clamping the battery cable to the battery post to eliminate corrosion. You can do this to the alligator clamps on the battery charger to save them from corrosion, too. A neat save my Uncle taught me years ago. Vaseline or petroleum jelly is very inexpensive and very effective to stop corrosion problems between dissimilar metals used in electrical work. I use it in my solar panels all the time to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals by galvanic action.
Yes, this drives me nuts! My first "smart" charger came from a thrift store without directions and it charged one of my batteries just fine, great, it works! Then I put it on another low battery and nothing! Then I do some research and find it doesn't work for the main reason I want a battery charger! It's so stupid! I feel I have to own two chargers! Or sell mine and find an old one... It's ridiculous!
Did you say a water and washing soda solution? I've heard of using vinegar vs water, but you need a well ventilated area due to toxic gases, but no problem with baking soda.
If you need to control the amps with a rheostat then I'm not sure about how to go about wiring it in. For electrolysis, you can control how much amperage your pushing through the relic by the amount of baking soda you add to your solution.
Great upload. I would have a field day working in your shop. I lucked out today and was doing some cleanup work and the owner had a 30+ year old battery charger that the owner generously gave me. I've been metal detecting,magnet fishing, and bottle hunting for 28 years+ so now that I have the right equipment I'm excited to do some electrolysis this afternoon.
Good video. A little more sophisticated and powerful then we had back when I started. Keep it up!!!!
Thank you for the video. Great information that just saved me from purchasing a new one. In fact, I am going to convert another one.
Hi,
For my purposes, I would add two 50V computer style caps to really smooth out the DC coming out of the charger and add a buck/boost regulator to control the voltage to what is needed at the time. I am a ham operator, and need to have constant current and constant voltage for some of the battery types I use. But your transformation of a charger to a DC voltage supply is novel to me. Interesting video!
I love the idea of adding a second positive lead, but I'd just put an on/off switch on it so I could turn that lead off when I just wanted to use the charger in smart mode to charge a battery. I hadn't thought of adding a third lead, but that's an awesome idea.
Interesting! I think I'd add ports and plugs on the case for the positive lead so I'd just have one positive lead I could plug in for "smart" or "dumb"charging.
Or one could use a switch so positive lead led to the right spot, original or to the whole plate.
If I have this correct?
Since most "smart" chargers won't charge a very dead or weak battery I'd like to sometimes be able to do some "dumb" charging.
So, I found the video helpful for that reason too!
What was the deal with your manual switch setting?
I've heard some "smart" chargers have some kind of override but most don't.
It's rather maddening when your voltage is too low to run the charger...it's kind of crazy if you ask me...
Good job you're very clear 😊
OMG, the Micronta multimeter from the 80's . I have the exact same one.
Good video! This will come in handy once it cools off outside. ☺
Greeting from metal Detector Bali Indonesia 🥰♥️
You could always add one of the switches for like a bathroom fan that acts as a timer. That way you dont burn up the battery if you forget
Good point!
Couldn't you just tap into that 12v lead, leave the circuit board in place, and run that tapped wire thru a switch and then connect it to the rectifier? Then you would have a full manual/automatic charger with amp gauge lights. Right?
You can hook the LED to 12v. You need to put a 1K resistor in series with the LED. It will work fine.
Bravo.......u can add a battery ........u might use a capastor.........cheers
Thank you
Thank you very much for the video!
Be careful putting brass and aluminum together! Or copper and aluminum. They tend to react with each other by galvanic action and cause corrosion. Not good. It does take some time for it to show, but it will unless you use some petroleum jelly in the connection to keep oxygen from getting into the connection. Same goes for battery posts and battery clamps, brush the post with the "vaseline" jelly before clamping the battery cable to the battery post to eliminate corrosion. You can do this to the alligator clamps on the battery charger to save them from corrosion, too. A neat save my Uncle taught me years ago. Vaseline or petroleum jelly is very inexpensive and very effective to stop corrosion problems between dissimilar metals used in electrical work. I use it in my solar panels all the time to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals by galvanic action.
Good to know! Thanks for tips!
So in making chargers idiot-proof they made them useless. I hate those frickin things.
It reminds me of the new gas cans with the stupid valves!
Battery charger that won't charge a dead battery what a brilliant idea.
Yes, this drives me nuts!
My first "smart" charger came from a thrift store without directions and it charged one of my batteries just fine, great, it works! Then I put it on another low battery and nothing!
Then I do some research and find it doesn't work for the main reason I want a battery charger!
It's so stupid!
I feel I have to own two chargers! Or sell mine and find an old one...
It's ridiculous!
Did you say a water and washing soda solution? I've heard of using vinegar vs water, but you need a well ventilated area due to toxic gases, but no problem with baking soda.
Yes. Washing soda is a little more gentle than baking soda but they will both work.
Is there any way to control the amps?
If you need to control the amps with a rheostat then I'm not sure about how to go about wiring it in. For electrolysis, you can control how much amperage your pushing through the relic by the amount of baking soda you add to your solution.
Will it charge a battery?
Yes
Why do you talk sooo slow
I believe in savoring each word, like a fine wine. After all, good things come to those who enunciate.