I've had my ms180c for about 7 years now and it was a hand me down from my dad who'd had it for many years before then. I'm always impressed by how well it starts and runs despite it sitting for months, or even years, between uses. My only issue is it can sometimes get bogged down in tough wood. It's not as powerful as bigger saws. But it has always cut through. Hopefully yours lasts as long as mine has and is reliable
I'm not a professional forestry worker or tradesman, but I have been using chain saws for years. I also have an MS170 and I find it works great for the hobby/homeowner for smaller trees up to 16" in diameter. I was watching your technique and I noticed you are cutting with the tree or branches sitting in the middle of the bar. I have found (and this is only my observation) that if I place the piece I am working on close to the saw body, there are a series of teeth that you can use to anchor the saw to the work. Then, instead of trying to push the saw through the wood, you can pivot the saw and the teeth on the body will hold it in position. It seems to work a little better for me and it is less tiresome if you are working all day. Cheers and enjoy that great little buzzsaw.
I have had my MS 170 for around 4 years, just a fun little saw. I paid around $180 for it, and thought self, this is probably not going to be a good purchase... Boy was I wrong! This little guy is the BOMB! I don't use mine a whole lot, homeowner, jungle in the back yard, a lot of dead fall and just annoying craap. Well, now I have a few trees down, time to upgrade the 170... I bought the Oregon 16" bar with their .050 chain, along with the Stihl adjustment kit, get rid of those annoying nuts, along with the spikes. They will be here sometime today, good old Amazon... One thing, the fuel, I use the Echo Red Armor, 50:1 mix, get it at Home Depot, buy it by the case to get bulk pricing. I run it in all of my 2 cycle motors, been doing that for four years now, all equipment was new when I started using this fuel. All of my equipment starts in a pull or two, this saw, my Stihl Km 111R, the Stihl HL 94 hedger, the Echo hedger, Echo backpack blower, etc... I live in Michigan, ethanol in the gas. I have lost a couple of 2 cycle motors to that crap, along with all of the headaches of not starting and what you are experiencing... No issues, and the fuel is stable for a few years. I am still using fuel I purchased two or three years ago with no issues. Hope this helps,
Not just for beginners. I've done logging, back country trail construction, and was a professional climber for a tree company. I own a Husky 288, a 353, and I'm picking up one of these little things for a climb saw.
I was a little hesitant when I saw one at my local hardware store. They recommended it for “occasional” use. I’m not sure what they mean by occasional. I really hope it lasts me for a few years. I won’t be doing anything professionally but taking care of fallen limbs for me and perhaps my neighbors come Tornado season.
@@javiernajera8420 I got a MS 172 and it work like a dream no issues at all now i have removed all the trees i wanted and it is now firewood i can't say how much i love this little saw :)
I've had a 353 for nearly 25 years. It still runs strong and is reliable. Very little youtube content on them probably because they are older than youtube.
Starting sequence. Full choke and pull until it rolls over. Immediately push up to half choke and pull until it runs. When it starts in half choke, take off chain break and let it run in high idle until it stabilizes. Then blip it to idle.
I've got a ms 170 and runs like a dream. Full choke until it fires then bring that control half way and away it goes and runs really good, I can't think of a single thing against the saw.
The “bogging down” thing is partly caused by not letting the saw idle for a minute before you start going. Hammering the gas like that immediately will flood and engine really fast.
Criticism here, but it's constructive. The tree you were cutting at the 4:25 mark... that was a super dangerous way to cut. I hope since this video you've learned more about the safe ways to fall a tree. You're exactly correct that it feels great to do, controlling the power, etc... but only until something tragic happens. Be safe out there.
When he made the face cut he didn't line up the upper angled cut with the lower straight cut. They call it a "dutchman" which can be dangerous. It can cause the tree to change direction as its falling from your intended target from a couple feet to as much as a dozen feet or more to the left or right depending the size of tree and, or how bad your cut is misaligned (dutchman). Also his back cut was made at an angle. The back cut should be horizontal to the ground as much as possible so the tree will be less likely to slide down vertically off the stump which can make the tree fall back on you or who knows where. Luckily the tree was already leaning the direction he was falling it, but still dangerous regardless. Buckin' Billy Ray Smith is a pro tree faller on youtube. You can learn alot from his videos. He explains pretty well. Be safe bud.
i just got my granfathers old ms170 a few days ago, it had not been started in 8 years and it started after 5 pulls, same gas and all. all i needed to do was to turn the chain around the teeth faces the direction of the cut lol. wonderful little saw
8:19 That's an air flow issue. Check the screen behind the exhaust diffuser and clean it if its gunked up. Also inspect the check valve that controls air flow into gas tank. It's located right hand side of gas tank behind top cover. When level of gas declines air must be replaced, otherwise airlock occurs and the saw will bog due to insufficient gas flow. To confirm this, remove gas cap then replace it. Now start the saw and see if it behaves differently. If it runs better, then the issue is the check valve. If it runs the same, then check the screen. This is assuming you have fresh clean gas.
The exhaust screen was my thought also, especially if as a new owner he thought running at a slower speed will be better for the saw in the long run. Stihl oil is known to cause this when the engines are ran too slow. More common on grass trimmers as chainsaws tend to be run wide open more often.
I think the "bogging down" might be a symptom of the mix being slightly too strong, as in slightly too much oil in the mix. Just ensure you measure your mix correctly and only ever use 5 litres. How might I know, I had the exact same issue, I ensure my mix was perfect and zero issues after. Ran smoothly.
@@wsbkleeger I certainly must have missed that, but there definately isn't a 50/50 mix. It's supposed to be 100ml oil to 5000ml petrol, so 1/50 is correct mix.
Check out Steve's Small Engine Saloon. He shows how to tune the high, low, and idle on Stihl carbs to make them run smooth. You'll need a few specialty tools to do it ($10 to $15) but totally worth it. I tuned the carb on my Stihl FS 56 two-stroke line trimmer and now it consistently starts on first or second pull and spools right up to max RPM with no bogging.
All my saws will hesitate after refilling especially when trying to bring them to full throttle quickly. Start the saw then let it idle for 30 seconds then slowly bring the saw to full throttle. I usually don't bring to full throttle unless under load or if I have to adjust my Husqvarna.
My experience it's not the power head that does the work but the chain. Make sure the chain is cat claw sharp and you'll go through those trees like butter.
I have this saw, was cutting some smaller stuff and the chain popped off, put the chain on then I had this problem, found the chain was bent just enough to make it catch in a few spots, replaced the chain and now runs like new again
Hi there, if you're reading this I have a few tips for you: Instead of mixing fuel, buy it ready mixed. You can get a bottle called "aspen 2" which is in my experience the best you can get for 2 strokes. And for starting, start from full choke and when it coughs or burps switch it to half stroke and start it. And leave her running for a bit
I have this little saw, inherited it so it's an older version...bar and chain was worn out so replaced it a 14" bar with slightly more aggressive chain and cleaned and tuned it up...recently cut down a 35ft tree and cut up into firewood, this saw is feather light compared to bigger saw and I will use it more for limb clean up and trimming ...oh and I added some aftermarket felling dogs that work great
Something you might want to check is that you have the correct ratio of two stroke in the fuel, also another thing it could be is if you haven’t let it run in(basically filling the tank starting the saw up and letting it run through a few tanks of fuel before property use/revving it to the max)👍
I just bought one of these MS 170s to keep in my Jeep looks like a great saw for clearing trail obstructions and cheap enough you don’t worry about it getting stolen. I have a ms 461 but I refuse to leave that expensive saw in the Jeep, as a result I’ve not had a saw when I really needed it! I tried it out in the yard and was pleasantly surprised with it. It’s a great little garden saw and probably all someone who lives in the city needs for the yard and cutting some small firewood for the fireplace. I would recommend a more powerful and better quality saw if you heat with wood this saw isn’t going to last long if your cutting cords of wood regularly.
Those smaller tree are offsprings of the main tree... When the older tree has a disease or doesn't have much time to live, it will put out its offspring..
sometimes the tree does that but it will recover. and sometimes is simply due to a big prunning. in those cases, you end up with a shoot that is stealing energy from the tree. I have a giant avocado tree that did that due to a harsh drought
This looks like European White Ash tree, and they doesn't produce suckers around, no Ash produce suckers. I don't think it can hurt the main tree at all, because it is very big one. I have one in the garden next to mine and it doesn't matter what grows around, it is massive.
Use a high octane gas when you are mixing it, or use a premixed fuel with a minimum 93 octane gas. I had the same issue using 87 octane gas (and oil mixing). Hope this helps.
The 170 and the other Stihl entry level saws have an inherent design fault, which Stihl won’t accede to, in that sometimes putting the kill switch in the Off position doesn’t stop the saw from running. The problem is that the cut off spring lodges itself under the plastic choke bar and only ad hoc filing fixes it. There are many videos on UA-cam highlighting this problem. I suggest anyone thinking of buying a 170 should check these out. I had to repair mine myself as the dealer didn’t want to know.
@@pimc172that shouldnt have costed you anything. i have a 170 and that happens pretty frequently, the saw wont shut off because the spring gets pushed out of the way but i just remove the cover and move the spring back with my finger and it works. i dont see how that couldve costed you anything. plus if u took it into the shop it shoulve been covered under warranty anyway...
Cranking an MS 170. They will flood in a heart beat. Mine has two tanks on it, so it is pretty new. Today, I was a little sloppy cranking it and must have pulled it over in full choke a few to many times and flooded it. I pulled the plug and pulled it over with the spark plug out about 10-15 times. This normally clears most flooded saws. However, it would not clear mine. I finally removed the plug and turned it over while I ate supper. After supper, I pulled it over upside down and the gas just poured out of the spark plug hole. I kept doing this until no more gas came out. I blew off the plug and put it back in. I then put it in the Run position and pulled it over until it rolled over. I pushed it down to half choke and she cranked right. I let it idle for about ten minutes and put it away. For now on, One pull in full choke and then push it up to half choke and pull until it runs. It was95 degrees outside and that may have been part of it.
@@phartsdust welcome to the club. I am well past 70. I am a Vietnam Vet, USMC. You would have really liked to crank the MS 460 I built a couple of years ago. I could occasionally get it going and it was a hoss, but it got me going more often than I got it going. I finally sold it off to a friend. He drop starts it with one pull. I have a rule - if I can’t crank it, I don’t keep it. I have a new trio - MS 170, 171 and 180. They crank pretty easily. I updated the 170 to side adjust and all three have steel dogs on them. I would like to put 16 inch bars with .050 chain on them. I hate .043 chain because the drags will drop down into the gap between the sprocket washer and the sprocket and lock up the saw. Stihl should use a thicker sprocket washer when using .043 chain.
@@phartsdust I will give you a hint. When you feel the saw yank back and you are in full choke, that is a roll over, so push it up to half choke and continue pulling. The problem is in the advance curve of the coil. They should have it at full retard on slow RPMs and advance after that. This would insure they fire on the downward travel of the piston, instead of when it is going up. I am sure Siemens can do it. This is not rocket science. Starter pawls are cheaper than our shoulders and wrists.
Hey, you probably figured it out by now, but I was having trouble with mine stalling out like that and found that the chain needed to run a little looser.
Bought my Stihl chainsaw today ms170 love the way it cut,but was hard to start and shuts down just like the video. Overall I'm still happy,I cut some big branches down so I'm happy
I love my new little ms 170. It starts easy, runs fine and stays lit even in hot weather. I have kit some dinner plate size rounds with it and had no problems with the 170. I did add steel bucking spikes to it and a side chain adjust. I have lots of bigger saws, but if the bar will wrap around what I want to cut then I will quickly grab the 170 due to its lighter weight. I run Stihl High Performance two cycle oil at 50:1 with premium non-ethanol gas in all of my saws. I clean every saw and sharpen it after every use. My guess your problem is fuel related.
@@Ben-Taylor700 if you are talking about the ms 170,it takes a 16 inch bar,.3/8P, .043, 55. Mine has a Stihl part number 3005 008 3913 bar on it. I run Stihl HP two cycle oil in it at 50:1 with PNE gas and stabilizer. Echo Premium bar oil.
@@Ben-Taylor700 The Fuel and Oil logo on the right indicates an gas/oil mix is required as it's a 2 stroke engine, 50 parts gas to 1 part oil. The oil logo on the left is for the chain oil only. Don't use engine oil here. It's all in the manual which should be read cover to cover before using the chainsaw.
Dude I used it to process about 3 full cords of wood from a shipment of logs I got from a tree service. Some of the trees were over 24" in diameter, and I had no problems at all. Sure, a bigger and more powerful saw woulda gotten those big 'uns cut faster, but I really enjoyed using it. Especially given it's lighter weight.
I have one of these with a little over 4 hrs on it and I noticed that as well with the bogging down...When you drop it down to full choke it usually won't burp but only pull it no more than 3 times and then flip it into the run position and start it and I just let it sit and idle for a little bit and usually fine after that warm up...after you run it and let it sit for a while fo ahead and drop it down to full choke again and give it a good pull and it'll burp at that point and then move it back to run and that solved my problems...if it's within 10 minutes or so you should be able to just fire it and go
I’m not encouraged. Not trying to be snappy, but it’s not a runner if it won’t stay running. I just bought the MS170 for use every now and then around the house. I’d previously used a 17 year old Poulan that worked flawlessly for 16 years.
My 170 is supergood, i use it superalot and always runs like a dream! And light! I opend exhaust and iron doggs 35 cm blade, i cut big trees from 50 cm with this thing, crazy good and strong, also its my first one and only one, i love it
I had the same problem with mine when I first got it. I was using regular (ethanol) gas with the oil I mixed myself. Dumped it out and bought some non-ethanol and mixed another gallon and the saw immediately ran fine. Used the same gas in my fs56rc trimmer and it ran fine, so not really sure what caused it. Maybe the saw is just more sensitive to the fuel you give it 🤷♂️ Awesome saw though, would recommend to anyone needing a smaller saw, commercial or homeowner, the thing handles whatever you throw at it
That's nice to know. I just bought one and other then the folks at ACE assembling it in front of me and giving it its first start I haven't started it yet myself. I grew up around chainsaws as when I was a kid we heated with wood on our farm but I seldom ever ran the saws we had back then. They always had me dragging brush or loading the bed of the truck with the stovewood lengths. In the fall came my main job. Splitting, lol. I always use non ethanol gas in my small engines as then I don't even need to bother with fuel stabilizer over the winter months.
I have this issue whether I use the expensive pre-mix or premium ethanol (non-ethanol isn't available to me). It's only on cold starts or after I've run it dry. I know Stihl claims its primerless system isn't responsible for this common issue, but I'm not convinced otherwise.
I just had this same issue when borrowing the 170 from my dad. Runs fine for a while, then bogs down later into the job. He told me the gas was ethanol, and it was over a year old. So basically it took on water, which ethanol does, and separated in the gas can. I swaped his old ethanol mix with pure, non ethanol gas (our local circle k has it on the pumps, use the PURE GAS app to find pure gas in your area), added a bottle of stihl 50:1 and now it runs like a champ.
When you are ready for an upgrade. The MS 261 C is an absolutely phenomenal choice! It's an entry level professional saw. I've owned mine for two years now. Beat it to heck. Runs like an absolute champ, all day!
@@Supaslow5.3 I'm gearing up for my next saw purchase here. I'm getting my hands on the MS 661C I think the 261 and the 661 will get along just nicely together. Absolutely love my 261. My 261 was my best friend down in Florida, for the whole month of October I was down there working the hurricane Ian restoration efforts. I was down there working inside of damaged homes for the most part, but I sure got my saw into some serious trees out there. I already know I'll love the 661 lol Really looking forward to it... Just a few more months of hard saving and I've got it.
take a lot of time and review chainsaw safety and handling. don't mistake it's small size for something simple. most injuries come from small saws just like that. use premium gas and stick to their two cycle oil. enjoy.
I know it’s a year+ later but your bogging issue is a carburetor adjustment issue. The dealer may not have a Stihl tech on hand but they should, and are usually required to. This saw should have been run, tested in wood under load and had the carb dialed in before it left. Hopefully you have it sorted out, the 170 is the top “beginner” saw out there, second isn’t anywhere close for various reasons. Love to see the enthusiasm and positivity over power equipment, especially a great Stihl saw!
I am not a beginner but I like the ms 170. I have cut some pretty big wood with my 170. I like it’s light weight and the dexterity that it gives to me.
Let it warm up. Increase throttle gently. Or incorrect choke setting for conditions fouling up the plug I have seen two-strokes not like choke at all in summer?
Cold engine needs more fuel to stat and run. That is why we use choke on cold engines. Sounds like it is running a little lean on the low end. Once it is fully warmed up it will run fine. Tweak the low end needle counter clockwise just a 1/16 of a turn.
plus stihl saws don’t usually have primer bulbs. so its not hard to start its just that it takes 6 cranks to get the fuel to the carb. once you start it let it idle for 2 min especially first time use
Mine bogs on cold starts or after running it dry. It seems to take a little while to get the fuel flowing properly. I bet it wouldn't have this issue if there were a primer bulb. Stihl says otherwise, but I'm not convinced.
Great review, I want to buy a small chainsaw. I'm considering a Stihl. You helped me make my decision. One tip if I may be so bold, please curl your thumb around the handle bar for more control if there is a kickback situation. Once again your review is what I needed to see to help me make a decision on purchasing a Stihl.
I have the ms 170 also, but i made an upgrade. The tension from the chain to the side and a pair of steel teeth, that is a thing everybody has to do. Low cost and very usefull, when you have done that,,... a great machine.
I use Mid grade fuel, that's what Stihl recommends. My first Stihl is a MS251C, I purchased it 5yrs ago, I used it the other day after it has been sitting for 2yrs it fired right up. I just purchased a MS170 from an estate sale for $40. It looks to be an older model, may put a 12" blade on it and use it for limbs. Watch other videos on the premixed gas, some say stay away. Thanks for the upload.
Hi I lookin for help I bought brand new chainsaw ms181 I noticed oil coming out around the muffler its coming out around the 2 holes for muffler screws, its new machine do you think petrol mix to rich ? I put 20 ml of oil in to 1 liter of petrol is that to much
The notch needs to be worked on and when you are doing your back cut always look up to see if the tree is moving so that you can get out of the way when it starts falling
For 25 years I have lived on and maintained 40 acres with thousands of trees and an extensive network of trails. I own seven chain saws up to and including a Stihl 044 with 36-inch bar. The overwhelming majority of use of these saws - and my strong recommendation for any user’s first saw - involves top-handle saws, also known as in-tree or arborist saws. I have five - two Stihls and three cheap Chinese units that have proven surprisingly good. Top-handle saws are light, powerful and balanced at the throttle. It is an open secret that they can be operated with one hand. I do NOT recommend this unless the user is experienced and strong enough, and proper safety gear, as is the case with any chain saw, is crucial. But the light weight reduces fatigue and the small size makes these saws a dream to use. My saws are older, but the Stihl MS194T is the current equivalent. All this assumes you need a saw for more than occasional use. For limited use, gasoline saws can be a real pain, what with the need for fresh fuel and enough use to keep the carburetor working, so many users would be better off with the new generation of battery units.
I’m wanting a chainsaw, it would maybe get used once a month or so for getting firewood for a burn pit. I’m aware of how problematic a gasoline saw could be when it’s used so little, sadly battery units are 500+ (good brands) while this saw is $200 from my local aces. Any recommendations?
@@thegeneral1955 The Stihl MS170 will do fine, especially if it is used regularly and the fuel is fresh. Gas saws hate to sit around. Battery units are expensive, for sure. If you happen to have battery tools, I would look into that. It occurred to me that I have at least five 18-volt Makita lithium batteries for my various tools, including their very expensive twin-battery track saw, and that their battery chain saw might be the way to go. The use time of these things astounds me.
Ive got to dissagree with your suggestion that top handle saws are good for beginners. New users often dont know the risks properly, and there are way more risks with a saw that can be used one handed.
@@FirePantsFabrication If a new user doesn't understand the risks involved with saw use, it won't matter which type he uses -- it will be extremely dangerous. While anti-kickback chains are scoffed at by professionals, those combined with the smaller size and power of a top-handle saw make them plenty safe. The first rule is the same: Absolutely no one should pick up a chain saw without reading and watching safety instructions -- and wearing protective gear.
Chickanic did a video explaining that canned gas wasn't as good as mixing it yourself and the leaf blower she used to explain this acted similar to your saw.
Cool saw but I’m thinking of going to the electric saws as a homeowner. I’ve had multiple smaller saws and they all end up getting gummed up and I have to spend hours trying to nurse them back to running condition. Just don’t use them frequently enough
sounds like an oil mix, not sure if you mentioned it you use 50:1 mix? but I use 25:1 in mine and don't bog down at all. run all my gear on that ratio for 5 years and never failed (touch wood).
Any of yall thinking about buying one of these and is scared away by comments, don’t be. I own a 170 for 3 years and a brand new 500i. 70% of the time i’m grabbing the 170. can buck most trees and cut down anything under 16 inch. very easy too start. and it has probably been thru 10 years of abuse in the three i’ve had it.
I mix 5L of fuel at a time: 1L of aviation gasoline (100LL) and 4L of non-ethanol premium gasoline plus 100mL of full synthetic AmsOil "Interceptor" 2 stroke oil for a 50:1 ratio. I prefer "Interceptor" over "Dominator", as the latter has no detergents.
Use Red Armour fuel from HD....it is expensive. You can leave the stuff in the saw over winter and it will not go bad. I has eliminated the mixing, and bogging that I had with this small saw.
Had the opportunity to try this saw out from a friend who bought it. It is a nice saw - however, it needed a bit of a break in to run well. Had the same issues as yours for the first two days of usage but then went fine. Might want to adjust the carburetor or give it a go with pre-mixed fuel? I run my own saws with pre-mixed exclusively. 🙋🏻♀️Anna
@@edwinhsingmaster9135 This saw does have carb adjustment and comes with the screwdriver used for the adjustment. They do have limiter caps (which can be removed if necessary) to keep you from adjusting too far.
Mine has this issue even with pre-mixed fuel. It's only with a cold start (or after running out of fuel), which makes me think it takes a while to get adequate fuel flow at first. None of my equipment with a purge/primer bulb has this issue.
I bought this saw and it never ran right. I took it back to the dealer 4 different times for repair and they kept telling me the carb was bad. Because you can not adjust the carb, they simply replaced it 4 different times. I used nothing but the Stihl gas made for it. They ended up taking the saw back and I had to upgrade to the MS180C .
I've had my MS170 for over 7 years now. No problem with it what so ever. I'm in the process now of servicing the rest of my Stihl products and will do the Chainsaw last. You probably have your problem solved because it's been 10 months since you made this video. Sounds to me that it's a Carburetor issue. The float inside there is not doing what it's suppose to do. At first I was thinking it might be the Spark Arrestor. Are you gonna give an Update on what your problem was? Thanks for this video. Joe from Indiana.
Nive video. I'm sure enjoying mine - once I learned how to not flood it and how to crank if I did flood it. I'm going to change out the forward facing chain tensioner to one on the side (between the two bar tigtening bolts).
I have the same issue starting mine. It also takes way too many pulls for the initial engine "burp" and then actually starting from a cold start (or after running out of fuel). I blame the lack of a purge bulb. As such, I let it idle for a bit, then do rapid throttle squeezes until it stops bogging down.
I had bought an MS170 and it ran fine for the first week, after using it for limbing. Then I had the same problem as you with it quiting. I took it to a Stihl dealer under warranty and they replaced the carburator. Since gave it to a friend. Now I have the MS180 I use for limbing
I’ve had mine for three years works great never had a problem I would recommend on watching a video on how to cut down a tree if you’re going to do that again. Could’ve been dangerous
I would look at other chain options, I'm picking one up tomorrow and not even gunna bother with the stock chain. Everyone I have talked to says a nicer chain makes a huge difference with it.
Racing slicks on the Caravan, does not make it faster. Yeasterday I cut circles around my friends ms170 16 , with my ms170 14 .043. Every time he pushed it bogged. Only a mater of time he will be replacing the clutch hub,, and maybe the entire saw due to burnt piston. His requires a Very light touch. Pita,.28" Douglas fir, and yes, we got road open, for atvs.
Agreed. My dad let me borrow his, it spit dust and couldn't cut for crap. He told me it was an off brand chain and was probably dull. Swapped it with a new Stihl chain and it flew through our job (6 trees ranging in 6"-16" diameter and 15-40ft in height.
Fuel perhaps not getting into the carb properly? Could just be shitty bits in there that’s clogged it up, give the carb clean out. And the fuel line that also goes to the carb. Probably abit late now tho.
I have this model and the same issue. It did that brand new, even when running the expensive pre-mixed fuel. Stihl may claim otherwise, but I'm convinced it is due to the carburetor not having a primer/purge bulb. It also floods easily.
Great review, nice to see an amateur (no offence) , I mean an ordinary Joe like me, deal with that tree and process it. So many pro tree surgeons on youtube, its good to see how us weekend warrior chainsaw dads handle an entry level chainsaw.
I’m thinking of getting one of these. The only other Stihl power tool I own is hs45 and it does what yours does in getting bogged down, when restarting it warm. Cold starts it’s great, but restarting when it’s warm it does become a bit lumpy! And I don’t want to mess with the idle screws because that is just witchcraft to me!
Let me help you with something I learned long ago...after you notch the front...your back cut should be level...about an inch or two above your bottom front cut...you were doing your back cut at a downward angle..thats super dangerous..the tree can twist or even kick back..stay safe
Bogging I'd almost always a poor fuel issue. Buy once and cry once and buy the Stihl brand premixed duel. If you're a residential periodic user, it will pay for itself by keeping the carb and fuel system clean.
I’ve had one for years and I always regret the day I stand to use it because it NEVER STARTS. Monkey eff around 70 to 100 pulls to get this machine running. Yes I have maintained it very well. Same results. Yes right mixture, premium fuel, new plug, air, removed the exhaust very little carbon, I hate this machine.
My guess is it is fuel related. If you are running ethanol fuel that is the problem. I don’t run that crap, so my saws run like champs. I run nothing but premium, non ethanol gas in all my two and four cycle equipment. My mix is a 45:1 mix of Stihl HP ( orange bottle), composed of 84 ml of Stihl HP oil and one gallon of PNE gas. In winter months, I stabilize it with Stabil Storage at one ounce per gallon of gas.
It's fuel related, but it isn't the gas. It's the no-primer system and Stihl will never convince me otherwise. Whether I use the expensive pre-mix or gas station premium (which has ethanol where I live), I have that bogging issue on a cold start/after running out of gas.
I've had my ms180c for about 7 years now and it was a hand me down from my dad who'd had it for many years before then. I'm always impressed by how well it starts and runs despite it sitting for months, or even years, between uses. My only issue is it can sometimes get bogged down in tough wood. It's not as powerful as bigger saws. But it has always cut through. Hopefully yours lasts as long as mine has and is reliable
Yup only 30cc or around that. For big shit use my MS291 that's 56cc.
Edit: I own the MS180C as well and love it.
Had my ms170 since 2019 i believe. Just this year some ahole stole it. Best damn saw for you bucks. 100 stars from me
I'm not a professional forestry worker or tradesman, but I have been using chain saws for years. I also have an MS170 and I find it works great for the hobby/homeowner for smaller trees up to 16" in diameter. I was watching your technique and I noticed you are cutting with the tree or branches sitting in the middle of the bar. I have found (and this is only my observation) that if I place the piece I am working on close to the saw body, there are a series of teeth that you can use to anchor the saw to the work. Then, instead of trying to push the saw through the wood, you can pivot the saw and the teeth on the body will hold it in position. It seems to work a little better for me and it is less tiresome if you are working all day. Cheers and enjoy that great little buzzsaw.
you are correct that is proper use
it also helps with saw control and in my opinion cuts nicer
I have had my MS 170 for around 4 years, just a fun little saw. I paid around $180 for it, and thought self, this is probably not going to be a good purchase... Boy was I wrong! This little guy is the BOMB! I don't use mine a whole lot, homeowner, jungle in the back yard, a lot of dead fall and just annoying craap. Well, now I have a few trees down, time to upgrade the 170...
I bought the Oregon 16" bar with their .050 chain, along with the Stihl adjustment kit, get rid of those annoying nuts, along with the spikes. They will be here sometime today, good old Amazon...
One thing, the fuel, I use the Echo Red Armor, 50:1 mix, get it at Home Depot, buy it by the case to get bulk pricing. I run it in all of my 2 cycle motors, been doing that for four years now, all equipment was new when I started using this fuel. All of my equipment starts in a pull or two, this saw, my Stihl Km 111R, the Stihl HL 94 hedger, the Echo hedger, Echo backpack blower, etc... I live in Michigan, ethanol in the gas. I have lost a couple of 2 cycle motors to that crap, along with all of the headaches of not starting and what you are experiencing... No issues, and the fuel is stable for a few years. I am still using fuel I purchased two or three years ago with no issues. Hope this helps,
REC 90 fuel sold by some BP Gas Stations in Michigan.. no ethanol.
Red armor is $40 for 100fl oz Stihl 50:1 is $40 for 1 gallon
@@jeffrey9102 Red Armor, 50:1 $31.75 for 110oz, that was what I paid locally. Stihl, 50:1 $41.99, 1 gal., locally. I will stick with the Red stuff.
Not just for beginners. I've done logging, back country trail construction, and was a professional climber for a tree company. I own a Husky 288, a 353, and I'm picking up one of these little things for a climb saw.
Do not get one. These new block style is the worse and such a struggle to turn on. I'm 40 and can say "they don't make them like they use too"
I was a little hesitant when I saw one at my local hardware store. They recommended it for “occasional” use. I’m not sure what they mean by occasional. I really hope it lasts me for a few years. I won’t be doing anything professionally but taking care of fallen limbs for me and perhaps my neighbors come Tornado season.
@@javiernajera8420 I got a MS 172 and it work like a dream no issues at all now i have removed all the trees i wanted and it is now firewood i can't say how much i love this little saw :)
I've had a 353 for nearly 25 years. It still runs strong and is reliable. Very little youtube content on them probably because they are older than youtube.
Starting sequence. Full choke and pull until it rolls over. Immediately push up to half choke and pull until it runs. When it starts in half choke, take off chain break and let it run in high idle until it stabilizes. Then blip it to idle.
It’s a ms170 it doesn’t have a choke
@@fatfuzzypotato6113 mine has one. Push the control lever all the way down and it is in full choke.
I've got a ms 170 and runs like a dream.
Full choke until it fires then bring that control half way and away it goes and runs really good, I can't think of a single thing against the saw.
One important question is do you know JESUS CHRIST AS YOUR PERSONAL LORD AND SAVIOR?
The “bogging down” thing is partly caused by not letting the saw idle for a minute before you start going. Hammering the gas like that immediately will flood and engine really fast.
When it started that is just naturally STIHLs choke system to help it start easier but after that he should’ve let it rest
2 strokes need to warm up 🍻
Criticism here, but it's constructive. The tree you were cutting at the 4:25 mark... that was a super dangerous way to cut. I hope since this video you've learned more about the safe ways to fall a tree. You're exactly correct that it feels great to do, controlling the power, etc... but only until something tragic happens. Be safe out there.
sdf71: you pointed out a dangerous tree cutting method here, will you explain further? Danger of Barber Chairing?
When he made the face cut he didn't line up the upper angled cut with the lower straight cut. They call it a "dutchman" which can be dangerous. It can cause the tree to change direction as its falling from your intended target from a couple feet to as much as a dozen feet or more to the left or right depending the size of tree and, or how bad your cut is misaligned (dutchman). Also his back cut was made at an angle. The back cut should be horizontal to the ground as much as possible so the tree will be less likely to slide down vertically off the stump which can make the tree fall back on you or who knows where. Luckily the tree was already leaning the direction he was falling it, but still dangerous regardless. Buckin' Billy Ray Smith is a pro tree faller on youtube. You can learn alot from his videos. He explains pretty well.
Be safe bud.
i just got my granfathers old ms170 a few days ago, it had not been started in 8 years and it started after 5 pulls, same gas and all. all i needed to do was to turn the chain around the teeth faces the direction of the cut lol. wonderful little saw
8:19 That's an air flow issue. Check the screen behind the exhaust diffuser and clean it if its gunked up. Also inspect the check valve that controls air flow into gas tank. It's located right hand side of gas tank behind top cover. When level of gas declines air must be replaced, otherwise airlock occurs and the saw will bog due to insufficient gas flow. To confirm this, remove gas cap then replace it. Now start the saw and see if it behaves differently. If it runs better, then the issue is the check valve. If it runs the same, then check the screen. This is assuming you have fresh clean gas.
The exhaust screen was my thought also, especially if as a new owner he thought running at a slower speed will be better for the saw in the long run. Stihl oil is known to cause this when the engines are ran too slow. More common on grass trimmers as chainsaws tend to be run wide open more often.
I think the "bogging down" might be a symptom of the mix being slightly too strong, as in slightly too much oil in the mix. Just ensure you measure your mix correctly and only ever use 5 litres. How might I know, I had the exact same issue, I ensure my mix was perfect and zero issues after. Ran smoothly.
he said he bought the 50/50 premixed fuel from the store
@@wsbkleeger I certainly must have missed that, but there definately isn't a 50/50 mix. It's supposed to be 100ml oil to 5000ml petrol, so 1/50 is correct mix.
right sorry i meant 1/50 mix@@EUnotsogreat
Spark arrestor needs cleaning !
Check out Steve's Small Engine Saloon. He shows how to tune the high, low, and idle on Stihl carbs to make them run smooth. You'll need a few specialty tools to do it ($10 to $15) but totally worth it. I tuned the carb on my Stihl FS 56 two-stroke line trimmer and now it consistently starts on first or second pull and spools right up to max RPM with no bogging.
All my saws will hesitate after refilling especially when trying to bring them to full throttle quickly. Start the saw then let it idle for 30 seconds then slowly bring the saw to full throttle. I usually don't bring to full throttle unless under load or if I have to adjust my Husqvarna.
9:20 ‘This thing’s a runner, for sure!’ 😂🤦🏻♂️ Even my 9 year old saw the irony in that statement haha
My experience it's not the power head that does the work but the chain. Make sure the chain is cat claw sharp and you'll go through those trees like butter.
I have this saw, was cutting some smaller stuff and the chain popped off, put the chain on then I had this problem, found the chain was bent just enough to make it catch in a few spots, replaced the chain and now runs like new again
Hi there, if you're reading this I have a few tips for you:
Instead of mixing fuel, buy it ready mixed. You can get a bottle called "aspen 2" which is in my experience the best you can get for 2 strokes.
And for starting, start from full choke and when it coughs or burps switch it to half stroke and start it. And leave her running for a bit
And with your face cuts, can be 45 degree "cheese wedge" and cut straight along from the back
I have this little saw, inherited it so it's an older version...bar and chain was worn out so replaced it a 14" bar with slightly more aggressive chain and cleaned and tuned it up...recently cut down a 35ft tree and cut up into firewood, this saw is feather light compared to bigger saw and I will use it more for limb clean up and trimming ...oh and I added some aftermarket felling dogs that work great
Something you might want to check is that you have the correct ratio of two stroke in the fuel, also another thing it could be is if you haven’t let it run in(basically filling the tank starting the saw up and letting it run through a few tanks of fuel before property use/revving it to the max)👍
I just bought one of these MS 170s to keep in my Jeep looks like a great saw for clearing trail obstructions and cheap enough you don’t worry about it getting stolen. I have a ms 461 but I refuse to leave that expensive saw in the Jeep, as a result I’ve not had a saw when I really needed it! I tried it out in the yard and was pleasantly surprised with it. It’s a great little garden saw and probably all someone who lives in the city needs for the yard and cutting some small firewood for the fireplace. I would recommend a more powerful and better quality saw if you heat with wood this saw isn’t going to last long if your cutting cords of wood regularly.
How much for it in Canada dollars
Those smaller tree are offsprings of the main tree... When the older tree has a disease or doesn't have much time to live, it will put out its offspring..
That's what I was gonna say like he fucked the whole process of life up
sometimes the tree does that but it will recover. and sometimes is simply due to a big prunning. in those cases, you end up with a shoot that is stealing energy from the tree. I have a giant avocado tree that did that due to a harsh drought
There called suckers. Or basal off shoots.
Deffinitly remove before they grow that tall.
Your welcome
No, they are not from that tree. They are called suckers Different species of plant they're parasitic
This looks like European White Ash tree, and they doesn't produce suckers around, no Ash produce suckers. I don't think it can hurt the main tree at all, because it is very big one. I have one in the garden next to mine and it doesn't matter what grows around, it is massive.
Use a high octane gas when you are mixing it, or use a premixed fuel with a minimum 93 octane gas. I had the same issue using 87 octane gas (and oil mixing). Hope this helps.
I've had this one for years. Good All around saw for small yard work. Just let it eat slowly. I've cut wood as big as the 16in bar.
just bought mine yesterday, used it today. worth every cent.
The 170 and the other Stihl entry level saws have an inherent design fault, which Stihl won’t accede to, in that sometimes putting the kill switch in the Off position doesn’t stop the saw from running. The problem is that the cut off spring lodges itself under the plastic choke bar and only ad hoc filing fixes it. There are many videos on UA-cam highlighting this problem. I suggest anyone thinking of buying a 170 should check these out. I had to repair mine myself as the dealer didn’t want to know.
This is only happens when he operator of the saw tries to remove or install the top cover without setting the lever to choke position!
@@kostasfrangos3354 no...I had this problem after 3 uses on a brand new saw... didn't open the cover..costed me 180$
@@pimc172that shouldnt have costed you anything. i have a 170 and that happens pretty frequently, the saw wont shut off because the spring gets pushed out of the way but i just remove the cover and move the spring back with my finger and it works. i dont see how that couldve costed you anything. plus if u took it into the shop it shoulve been covered under warranty anyway...
Cranking an MS 170. They will flood in a heart beat. Mine has two tanks on it, so it is pretty new. Today, I was a little sloppy cranking it and must have pulled it over in full choke a few to many times and flooded it. I pulled the plug and pulled it over with the spark plug out about 10-15 times. This normally clears most flooded saws. However, it would not clear mine. I finally removed the plug and turned it over while I ate supper. After supper, I pulled it over upside down and the gas just poured out of the spark plug hole. I kept doing this until no more gas came out. I blew off the plug and put it back in. I then put it in the Run position and pulled it over until it rolled over. I pushed it down to half choke and she cranked right. I let it idle for about ten minutes and put it away. For now on, One pull in full choke and then push it up to half choke and pull until it runs. It was95 degrees outside and that may have been part of it.
I'm past 70 years and had the same problems as you. After reading your well written problem i've decided to never try to use this saw ever again.
@@phartsdust welcome to the club. I am well past 70. I am a Vietnam Vet, USMC. You would have really liked to crank the MS 460 I built a couple of years ago. I could occasionally get it going and it was a hoss, but it got me going more often than I got it going. I finally sold it off to a friend. He drop starts it with one pull. I have a rule - if I can’t crank it, I don’t keep it. I have a new trio - MS 170, 171 and 180. They crank pretty easily. I updated the 170 to side adjust and all three have steel dogs on them. I would like to put 16 inch bars with .050 chain on them. I hate .043 chain because the drags will drop down into the gap between the sprocket washer and the sprocket and lock up the saw. Stihl should use a thicker sprocket washer when using .043 chain.
@@phartsdust I don’t put a saw away - I fix them. The one saw I hate is the MS 250 and 251. They are a pita to get going, most of the time.
@@phartsdust I will give you a hint. When you feel the saw yank back and you are in full choke, that is a roll over, so push it up to half choke and continue pulling. The problem is in the advance curve of the coil. They should have it at full retard on slow RPMs and advance after that. This would insure they fire on the downward travel of the piston, instead of when it is going up. I am sure Siemens can do it. This is not rocket science. Starter pawls are cheaper than our shoulders and wrists.
@@johnclarke6647 Thanks good tip, I'm extra cautious on the choke now..... dam thing floods so easy, then its 10+ pulls to start.
Tip: I trimmed my by opening the exhaust it makes it even better. I love that it is light. however the front handle seem a bit weak and crapy.
Hey, you probably figured it out by now, but I was having trouble with mine stalling out like that and found that the chain needed to run a little looser.
2 stroke engines are all divas. All of mine run great but do get temperamental at times.
Bought my Stihl chainsaw today ms170 love the way it cut,but was hard to start and shuts down just like the video. Overall I'm still happy,I cut some big branches down so I'm happy
Looking into buying one of these at the moment and this video has helped make up my mind! Thanks for sharing!!
I love my new little ms 170. It starts easy, runs fine and stays lit even in hot weather. I have kit some dinner plate size rounds with it and had no problems with the 170. I did add steel bucking spikes to it and a side chain adjust. I have lots of bigger saws, but if the bar will wrap around what I want to cut then I will quickly grab the 170 due to its lighter weight. I run Stihl High Performance two cycle oil at 50:1 with premium non-ethanol gas in all of my saws. I clean every saw and sharpen it after every use. My guess your problem is fuel related.
What guide bar and chain does this take?
@@Ben-Taylor700 if you are talking about the ms 170,it takes a 16 inch bar,.3/8P, .043, 55. Mine has a Stihl part number 3005 008 3913 bar on it. I run Stihl HP two cycle oil in it at 50:1 with PNE gas and stabilizer. Echo Premium bar oil.
Cheers pal, there’s also a fuel logo with a oil logo on the right, and just an oil logo on the left, how would you fill this up? Thank you
Is it for chain oil?
@@Ben-Taylor700 The Fuel and Oil logo on the right indicates an gas/oil mix is required as it's a 2 stroke engine, 50 parts gas to 1 part oil. The oil logo on the left is for the chain oil only. Don't use engine oil here. It's all in the manual which should be read cover to cover before using the chainsaw.
Dude I used it to process about 3 full cords of wood from a shipment of logs I got from a tree service. Some of the trees were over 24" in diameter, and I had no problems at all. Sure, a bigger and more powerful saw woulda gotten those big 'uns cut faster, but I really enjoyed using it. Especially given it's lighter weight.
PS-I did not use it to rip, I just used it to cut the logs into 16" rounders.
Yep agreed. They are a great little saw. I have a bunch of bigger ones, but the 170 is the one that is always in the back of the ute.
I have one of these with a little over 4 hrs on it and I noticed that as well with the bogging down...When you drop it down to full choke it usually won't burp but only pull it no more than 3 times and then flip it into the run position and start it and I just let it sit and idle for a little bit and usually fine after that warm up...after you run it and let it sit for a while fo ahead and drop it down to full choke again and give it a good pull and it'll burp at that point and then move it back to run and that solved my problems...if it's within 10 minutes or so you should be able to just fire it and go
I’m not encouraged. Not trying to be snappy, but it’s not a runner if it won’t stay running. I just bought the MS170 for use every now and then around the house. I’d previously used a 17 year old Poulan that worked flawlessly for 16 years.
I have the same saw, I changed the 16" Pico bar & chain with a 14" standard bar & chain. Way better cutting and no getting pinched.
Your bogging issue can be solved by adjusting the carb. It’s in the owners manual. Mine did the same thing.
My 170 is supergood, i use it superalot and always runs like a dream!
And light!
I opend exhaust and iron doggs 35 cm blade, i cut big trees from 50 cm with this thing, crazy good and strong, also its my first one and only one, i love it
I had the same problem with mine when I first got it. I was using regular (ethanol) gas with the oil I mixed myself. Dumped it out and bought some non-ethanol and mixed another gallon and the saw immediately ran fine. Used the same gas in my fs56rc trimmer and it ran fine, so not really sure what caused it. Maybe the saw is just more sensitive to the fuel you give it 🤷♂️ Awesome saw though, would recommend to anyone needing a smaller saw, commercial or homeowner, the thing handles whatever you throw at it
That's nice to know. I just bought one and other then the folks at ACE assembling it in front of me and giving it its first start I haven't started it yet myself. I grew up around chainsaws as when I was a kid we heated with wood on our farm but I seldom ever ran the saws we had back then. They always had me dragging brush or loading the bed of the truck with the stovewood lengths. In the fall came my main job. Splitting, lol. I always use non ethanol gas in my small engines as then I don't even need to bother with fuel stabilizer over the winter months.
I have this issue whether I use the expensive pre-mix or premium ethanol (non-ethanol isn't available to me). It's only on cold starts or after I've run it dry. I know Stihl claims its primerless system isn't responsible for this common issue, but I'm not convinced otherwise.
I just had this same issue when borrowing the 170 from my dad. Runs fine for a while, then bogs down later into the job. He told me the gas was ethanol, and it was over a year old. So basically it took on water, which ethanol does, and separated in the gas can. I swaped his old ethanol mix with pure, non ethanol gas (our local circle k has it on the pumps, use the PURE GAS app to find pure gas in your area), added a bottle of stihl 50:1 and now it runs like a champ.
The bogging like that happens with my line trimmer to (Stihl)
I let it warm up for half a minute before using and its ok after that
When you are ready for an upgrade. The MS 261 C is an absolutely phenomenal choice!
It's an entry level professional saw.
I've owned mine for two years now. Beat it to heck. Runs like an absolute champ, all day!
I have the pro series ms261 best damn saw
@@Supaslow5.3 I'm gearing up for my next saw purchase here. I'm getting my hands on the MS 661C
I think the 261 and the 661 will get along just nicely together.
Absolutely love my 261. My 261 was my best friend down in Florida, for the whole month of October I was down there working the hurricane Ian restoration efforts.
I was down there working inside of damaged homes for the most part, but I sure got my saw into some serious trees out there.
I already know I'll love the 661 lol
Really looking forward to it... Just a few more months of hard saving and I've got it.
@@dwainetyncompany awesome
take a lot of time and review chainsaw safety and handling. don't mistake it's small size for something simple. most injuries come from small saws just like that. use premium gas and stick to their two cycle oil. enjoy.
I know it’s a year+ later but your bogging issue is a carburetor adjustment issue. The dealer may not have a Stihl tech on hand but they should, and are usually required to. This saw should have been run, tested in wood under load and had the carb dialed in before it left. Hopefully you have it sorted out, the 170 is the top “beginner” saw out there, second isn’t anywhere close for various reasons. Love to see the enthusiasm and positivity over power equipment, especially a great Stihl saw!
I am not a beginner but I like the ms 170. I have cut some pretty big wood with my 170. I like it’s light weight and the dexterity that it gives to me.
The more I use that thing the more I love it!
This is my first saw, lightweight, good for cutting branches overhead wanna get a 271 or a 291 farm boss 20"
use sthil motomix ...best fuel and stable for ages
Let it warm up. Increase throttle gently. Or incorrect choke setting for conditions fouling up the plug I have seen two-strokes not like choke at all in summer?
Cold engine needs more fuel to stat and run. That is why we use choke on cold engines. Sounds like it is running a little lean on the low end. Once it is fully warmed up it will run fine. Tweak the low end needle counter clockwise just a 1/16 of a turn.
plus stihl saws don’t usually have primer bulbs. so its not hard to start its just that it takes 6 cranks to get the fuel to the carb. once you start it let it idle for 2 min especially first time use
i run mine with 93 octane and it doesn't bog at all, 93 octane and adjusting the carb did wonders
Are they coming with adjustable mixture carbs now?
Mine bogs on cold starts or after running it dry. It seems to take a little while to get the fuel flowing properly. I bet it wouldn't have this issue if there were a primer bulb. Stihl says otherwise, but I'm not convinced.
Great review, I want to buy a small chainsaw. I'm considering a Stihl. You helped me make my decision. One tip if I may be so bold, please curl your thumb around the handle bar for more control if there is a kickback situation. Once again your review is what I needed to see to help me make a decision on purchasing a Stihl.
I have the ms 170 also, but i made an upgrade.
The tension from the chain to the side and a pair of steel teeth, that is a thing everybody has to do.
Low cost and very usefull, when you have done that,,... a great machine.
I use Mid grade fuel, that's what Stihl recommends. My first Stihl is a MS251C, I purchased it 5yrs ago, I used it the other day after it has been sitting for 2yrs it fired right up. I just purchased a MS170 from an estate sale for $40. It looks to be an older model, may put a 12" blade on it and use it for limbs. Watch other videos on the premixed gas, some say stay away. Thanks for the upload.
how long bar you have that ms170? I have ms180 & orignital 14" bar
Hi I lookin for help I bought brand new chainsaw ms181 I noticed oil coming out around the muffler its coming out around the 2 holes for muffler screws, its new machine do you think petrol mix to rich ? I put 20 ml of oil in to 1 liter of petrol is that to much
The notch needs to be worked on and when you are doing your back cut always look up to see if the tree is moving so that you can get out of the way when it starts falling
For 25 years I have lived on and maintained 40 acres with thousands of trees and an extensive network of trails. I own seven chain saws up to and including a Stihl 044 with 36-inch bar. The overwhelming majority of use of these saws - and my strong recommendation for any user’s first saw - involves top-handle saws, also known as in-tree or arborist saws. I have five - two Stihls and three cheap Chinese units that have proven surprisingly good. Top-handle saws are light, powerful and balanced at the throttle. It is an open secret that they can be operated with one hand. I do NOT recommend this unless the user is experienced and strong enough, and proper safety gear, as is the case with any chain saw, is crucial. But the light weight reduces fatigue and the small size makes these saws a dream to use. My saws are older, but the Stihl MS194T is the current equivalent. All this assumes you need a saw for more than occasional use. For limited use, gasoline saws can be a real pain, what with the need for fresh fuel and enough use to keep the carburetor working, so many users would be better off with the new generation of battery units.
I’m wanting a chainsaw, it would maybe get used once a month or so for getting firewood for a burn pit. I’m aware of how problematic a gasoline saw could be when it’s used so little, sadly battery units are 500+ (good brands) while this saw is $200 from my local aces. Any recommendations?
@@thegeneral1955 The Stihl MS170 will do fine, especially if it is used regularly and the fuel is fresh. Gas saws hate to sit around. Battery units are expensive, for sure. If you happen to have battery tools, I would look into that. It occurred to me that I have at least five 18-volt Makita lithium batteries for my various tools, including their very expensive twin-battery track saw, and that their battery chain saw might be the way to go. The use time of these things astounds me.
Ive got to dissagree with your suggestion that top handle saws are good for beginners.
New users often dont know the risks properly, and there are way more risks with a saw that can be used one handed.
@@FirePantsFabrication If a new user doesn't understand the risks involved with saw use, it won't matter which type he uses -- it will be extremely dangerous. While anti-kickback chains are scoffed at by professionals, those combined with the smaller size and power of a top-handle saw make them plenty safe. The first rule is the same: Absolutely no one should pick up a chain saw without reading and watching safety instructions -- and wearing protective gear.
I know the recommended range is 12-16" but would I be able to run an 18" Stihl Rollomatic-E Bar on this chainsaw?
Better be real good at filing you chain if you do.
sir, what size the chain bar you used from Ms 170?
might need too used 92 on gasoline need to check the muffler for buildup on screen chain need to be sharp
Check the chain and make sure u clean around the chain every hour at least when it looks dirty.
Chickanic did a video explaining that canned gas wasn't as good as mixing it yourself and the leaf blower she used to explain this acted similar to your saw.
Cool saw but I’m thinking of going to the electric saws as a homeowner. I’ve had multiple smaller saws and they all end up getting gummed up and I have to spend hours trying to nurse them back to running condition. Just don’t use them frequently enough
It’s your carb fuel air mixture settings they need to be adjusted.
sounds like an oil mix, not sure if you mentioned it you use 50:1 mix? but I use 25:1 in mine and don't bog down at all. run all my gear on that ratio for 5 years and never failed (touch wood).
I am looking at getting one of theses for my lawn care business
Love this little saw!only thing I’m going to change is adding a 14” bar and wider chain when the 16 wears down
Any of yall thinking about buying one of these and is scared away by comments, don’t be. I own a 170 for 3 years and a brand new 500i. 70% of the time i’m grabbing the 170. can buck most trees and cut down anything under 16 inch. very easy too start. and it has probably been thru 10 years of abuse in the three i’ve had it.
ms 170 and ms 180 are excellene beginner chainsaws!
Sharpen your chain... chains usually need to be sharpen after every fuel and oil fill... oil added?
I mix 5L of fuel at a time: 1L of aviation gasoline (100LL) and 4L of non-ethanol premium gasoline plus 100mL of full synthetic AmsOil "Interceptor" 2 stroke oil for a 50:1 ratio. I prefer "Interceptor" over "Dominator", as the latter has no detergents.
Use Red Armour fuel from HD....it is expensive. You can leave the stuff in the saw over winter and it will not go bad. I has eliminated the mixing, and bogging that I had with this small saw.
Had the opportunity to try this saw out from a friend who bought it. It is a nice saw - however, it needed a bit of a break in to run well. Had the same issues as yours for the first two days of usage but then went fine. Might want to adjust the carburetor or give it a go with pre-mixed fuel? I run my own saws with pre-mixed exclusively. 🙋🏻♀️Anna
No carb mixture adj. on the stock saws!
All internal combustion engines need break in, unless there pre-run by the manufacturer. Small Chainsaw engines are very sensitive, noticeable change.
@@edwinhsingmaster9135 This saw does have carb adjustment and comes with the screwdriver used for the adjustment. They do have limiter caps (which can be removed if necessary) to keep you from adjusting too far.
Mine has this issue even with pre-mixed fuel. It's only with a cold start (or after running out of fuel), which makes me think it takes a while to get adequate fuel flow at first. None of my equipment with a purge/primer bulb has this issue.
I bought this saw and it never ran right. I took it back to the dealer 4 different times for repair and they kept telling me the carb was bad. Because you can not adjust the carb, they simply replaced it 4 different times. I used nothing but the Stihl gas made for it. They ended up taking the saw back and I had to upgrade to the MS180C .
I've had my MS170 for over 7 years now. No problem with it what so ever. I'm in the process now of servicing the rest of my Stihl products and will do the Chainsaw last. You probably have your problem solved because it's been 10 months since you made this video. Sounds to me that it's a Carburetor issue. The float inside there is not doing what it's suppose to do. At first I was thinking it might be the Spark Arrestor. Are you gonna give an Update on what your problem was? Thanks for this video. Joe from Indiana.
Nive video. I'm sure enjoying mine - once I learned how to not flood it and how to crank if I did flood it. I'm going to change out the forward facing chain tensioner to one on the side (between the two bar tigtening bolts).
I have the same issue starting mine. It also takes way too many pulls for the initial engine "burp" and then actually starting from a cold start (or after running out of fuel). I blame the lack of a purge bulb. As such, I let it idle for a bit, then do rapid throttle squeezes until it stops bogging down.
I had bought an MS170 and it ran fine for the first week, after using it for limbing. Then I had the same problem as you with it quiting. I took it to a Stihl dealer under warranty and they replaced the carburator. Since gave it to a friend. Now I have the MS180 I use for limbing
When you start it you need to warm it up and dont push the trigger just wait
I’ve had mine for three years works great never had a problem I would recommend on watching a video on how to cut down a tree if you’re going to do that again. Could’ve been dangerous
Mess with the choke it is what helps it startband idle correctly
Trees aren't exactly individual trees... I think you may have cut down new growth from the same tree🧐
I would look at other chain options, I'm picking one up tomorrow and not even gunna bother with the stock chain. Everyone I have talked to says a nicer chain makes a huge difference with it.
Racing slicks on the Caravan, does not make it faster. Yeasterday I cut circles around my friends ms170 16 , with my ms170 14 .043. Every time he pushed it bogged. Only a mater of time he will be replacing the clutch hub,, and maybe the entire saw due to burnt piston. His requires a Very light touch. Pita,.28" Douglas fir, and yes, we got road open, for atvs.
Agreed. My dad let me borrow his, it spit dust and couldn't cut for crap. He told me it was an off brand chain and was probably dull. Swapped it with a new Stihl chain and it flew through our job (6 trees ranging in 6"-16" diameter and 15-40ft in height.
Did you prime it
Beginner should be starting the saw with the chain brake on. Good habit to stick with.
Good video. Some of the master chainsaw lumberjacks on the comments are just so condescending. Keep up the good work.
Fuel perhaps not getting into the carb properly? Could just be shitty bits in there that’s clogged it up, give the carb clean out. And the fuel line that also goes to the carb. Probably abit late now tho.
I have this model and the same issue. It did that brand new, even when running the expensive pre-mixed fuel. Stihl may claim otherwise, but I'm convinced it is due to the carburetor not having a primer/purge bulb. It also floods easily.
What was it? Could be a clogged fuel tank vent.
Mine starts first pull cold 🥶
Great review, nice to see an amateur (no offence) , I mean an ordinary Joe like me, deal with that tree and process it.
So many pro tree surgeons on youtube, its good to see how us weekend warrior chainsaw dads handle an entry level chainsaw.
Damn now I want this. Even tho I will never use it. Only for off roading maybe
I’m thinking of getting one of these. The only other Stihl power tool I own is hs45 and it does what yours does in getting bogged down, when restarting it warm. Cold starts it’s great, but restarting when it’s warm it does become a bit lumpy!
And I don’t want to mess with the idle screws because that is just witchcraft to me!
Let me help you with something I learned long ago...after you notch the front...your back cut should be level...about an inch or two above your bottom front cut...you were doing your back cut at a downward angle..thats super dangerous..the tree can twist or even kick back..stay safe
Good video, thanks man!
Bogging I'd almost always a poor fuel issue. Buy once and cry once and buy the Stihl brand premixed duel. If you're a residential periodic user, it will pay for itself by keeping the carb and fuel system clean.
Just bought one, yet to use it. After watching your video not so sure this is a great saw.
I’ve had one for years and I always regret the day I stand to use it because it NEVER STARTS.
Monkey eff around 70 to 100 pulls to get this machine running.
Yes I have maintained it very well. Same results. Yes right mixture, premium fuel, new plug, air, removed the exhaust very little carbon, I hate this machine.
My guess is it is fuel related. If you are running ethanol fuel that is the problem. I don’t run that crap, so my saws run like champs. I run nothing but premium, non ethanol gas in all my two and four cycle equipment. My mix is a 45:1 mix of Stihl HP ( orange bottle), composed of 84 ml of Stihl HP oil and one gallon of PNE gas. In winter months, I stabilize it with Stabil Storage at one ounce per gallon of gas.
just get some aspen 2t no mixing required... anyone can do it..
It's fuel related, but it isn't the gas. It's the no-primer system and Stihl will never convince me otherwise. Whether I use the expensive pre-mix or gas station premium (which has ethanol where I live), I have that bogging issue on a cold start/after running out of gas.
Isn't Stabilizer only for fuel containing ethanol?
Where’s the follow up video to explain the troubles with the saw, and see how that starlight of a tree turned out after taking the suckers ?
Not ripping on it cause its great they have this option. But damn that would take forever compared.