How I STAIN and LACQUER a PRS style guitar - Part 1 of 2
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- Опубліковано 21 вер 2024
- In this video I demonstrate how I stain a PRS McCarty style guitar (with a flamed maple top and neck) using spirit based leather dyes, and how I cut faux binding. In the following episode, Please like the video and subscribe to the channel if you find it helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Intro music by Grudgewood - / grudgewood
Outro music by The Crushing - / thecrushingband
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36:32 To whom it may concern: I would always recommend taping off the body and the top exposing the faux binding, thinly sealing just the faux binding and then taping off the binding itself inverting the tape before staining the top. After staining i would then first clean up the edges using either a curved cabinet scraper (if you want to have a rounded over edge) or just a regular card scraper/stanley boxcutter blade/straight razor (the point made about taking care to check the grain direction for scraping still applies) scraping away any seepage and getting a nice clean line. The reason being that light woods typically used in stained tops, famously maple for instance, dye or stain penetration can worsen by sanding it further into the wood so scraping away the layer with any unwanted dye or stain in clean shavings is a safer and more effective way to get rid of any unwanted color in my experience. After which you can always go in there with a sanding block (i like to use pieces of oversized eraser rubber, shoutout Highline Guitars) and rounding over etc.
Anywhoo thought I'd leave this here ;) Hope that helps someone!
Exactly so cringe
I am new to the art of finishing. I keep coming back to this video as it is a GREAT reference.
Exactly what I was looking for. Please continue to share your work. Much appreciated!
Awesome video. I have a plastic binding on a build that I’m having trouble using a razor to clean up. It’s just not working as easily for me as I had hoped. The sand paper is so much easier.
Thank you!
37:22 What a satisfying view!
Looks great, and some useful tips in there for the build I'm doing. Nice work!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video
Yeah same here, and pretty much the same color and stain I'm looking for as well :) thanks man!
What a gorgeous guitar!
Kudos father filming and luthiery. Mind blown 🤗
I want mine emerald green with all gold hardware and frets 😊.
Great job with that dye job.
One of few colours that works well gold hardware IMO!
Awesome video!! Thank you so much for creating your own community around this craft.
Thanks for watching Jonathan
What a beautiful color....
Ree the faux binding... i had almost exactly the same setup, with my Crimson "PRS STYLE"(!) kit guitar. What i did was to carefully paint the edge with the oil finish i was going to use for the whole thing... before staining teh top, and whether this worked, or was just the porosity of the maple top, i got almost a perfect stain edge, with only a tiny bit of bleed, which then turned out to be the fault of the taping off job I had done. A light sand, and I am really pleased with the result.
Although i doubt that it would pass PRS Quality Control!
that is a legit way to do it, some people tape off the top and use shellac or sanding sealer to do the same thing on the sides, in fact when I do a faux binding inside an f-hole, I paint the edge of the f-hole with sanding sealer prior to doing finish sanding on the top to help me with spillover in such an awkward area. You will see that in my next video
@@ADFinlayson cool Will watch out for it!
Love your channel - you're very skilled! learned a lot from you!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video
very interesting and yes Big D is the man for this stuff. nice work, very clean finish on that edge
Thanks bud
Great informative video.....Big D is my teacher too...I’m a newbie but I want to do a PRS kit with Angelus dye quilted maple burst.....paranoid about sanding through a thin veneer....and about setting the neck straight and that the pitch is right....and there is the wiring....on to learn more on your next video...thank you,
Great job. Looking forward to part 2
Thanks Craig, coming soon!
@@ADFinlayson Can't wait :-) Thank you
Guitar staining tip #6... Coat the edge ( whatever part is not being stained) with teak oil and allow to dry 48 hours, before staining adjacent wood. You will still want to mask the edge to prevent contacting it directly with stain. Teak oil penetrates deeply into dry wood, essentially blocking the stain from reaching the surface of the side of the top wood.
interesting idea, thanks for the tip
Prs uses an isolator of some sort. If anyone knows please advise.thanks for that tip.about teak oil.
would boiled linseed oil work? that's all I have atm... also Travis, I heard about that isolater PRS uses as well, if anyone knows where to get something similar let us know :)
You can be proud of this.
really. beautiful job
Thank you! Cheers!
Really enjoyed the video. Very educational
Thanks Patrick, glad you found it useful.
Thank you for this video!
Absolutely outrageous!!
Awesome! Next time, please! Show us how you did those knob recess cavities!
Watch this one ua-cam.com/video/KDraemNcoTc/v-deo.html
Might I suggest you use pin-striping tape for those concave shapes? It might make it a bit easier. Not sure though.
I've been using the 3m vinyl stuff lately, it's pretty good at going around corners and doesn't soak up any dye.
Nice luthiery video to chill to
Thanks 👍
Do you prefer alcohol stains over water stains? it seems water is easier to work with, and blend, because alcohol dries so fast.
I prefer alcohol stains out of the stuff I have because the colours are more vibrant than any of the water based stains I've got, but water based are definitely easier to blend
@@ADFinlayson Is blending alcohol-based colors just a matter of speed?
Sweet videos, man! I reckoned it was about time I started leaving comments on your videos for a change, pay it back!
I always thought a guitar would look great if you just clear it after sanding back the black... Or a grey stain over the black fill actually does look awesome, if you''ve ever tried it
Thanks Sean, that's essentially how charcoal grey flame tops are done. In fact I did that for my first commission which was a grey flame top singlecut for a friend. It was only a crimson oil finish so at some point I'll get it back, redo the stain job and finish it with nitro. Another idea for a video :)
Awesome!
Does the stain fade over years? Is that why most of these builds are always done in a dark stain rather than a lighter color showing more of the quilt?
depends on the colour and they type of dye IMO, but there is a reason most PRS guitars live in a case under the bed.
Hi AD. Another great video. If you were doing a stained cap but with a plain maple neck would you glue in the neck before you do the body stain ? Thats where im at on my first carved top and wondering whether to glue in the neck first. Thanks for sharing all the build knowledge - its a real help.
Yes, I generally glue the neck in first if I can, if there is any exposed maple on the neck between the top and the fretboard though, it might be worth sealing that off and taping off or it will likely get some stain on it. There is no reason not to stain before glueing up though, as long as you can seal anything that's been stained because washing the glue squeezeout away can definitely cause issue with stain.
@@ADFinlayson thanks AD I have some other questions about your grain filler video too but don’t want to hassle you !
@@petecoates6410 Ask away mate
@@ADFinlayson will do ! A few Qs coming your way tomorrow ! Cheers
@@petecoates6410 send me an email if you want mate, adfinlaysonguitars@gmail.com
Can I ask, Do you need to grain fill before hand? great video by the way
I grainfill the mahogany, not the maple
I have a PRS blue hanging on my wall behind me and I noticed you stained the cutout whereas on the PRS they have kept the edge at the top all the way around the edge. Is it just a preference thing that you stained down to the Mahogany?
I have never done a guitar but I have a feeling that could be something I try soon but I have done a bit of staining in my time and I found once I have finished with the staining I get a dry lint free cloth and rub over the panel (with the grain if possible). This picks up any thicker bits of wet stain that may still be sitting on the panel that could show up after as a darker patch. Gives it a smoother finish and lets the woodgrain show through better. Also may avoid extra sanding later, always a bonus.
Core prs have the maple in the cutaway stained, as far as I know it’s only SE that don’t stain the carved bit in the cutaway
yup Im not rich
@@ADFinlayson
My apologies. I went and binge watched your channel. I know nothing and bow at your feet. That purple LP was absolutely amazing. What sort of prices are these guitars?
Was watching and thinking this reminds me of BigD especially with the Angelus dyes... then you name check him :) I'm looking forward to the next part, always learning.
Credit where it's due, Derek is a nice guy and knows a hell of a lot. Thanks, I'm hoping the weather holds out so I can get some lacquer on. I've been following your pine build on instagram, will catch up on the YT episodes :)
Who is BigD? Does he have a channel that I can subscribe to?
@@jonathanmaysonet8190 Do a youtube search bud, he has had a youtube channel for years.
@@ADFinlayson the videos I did are mostly me wittering on with little action. But had a tonne of fun. I've discovered I need a area bigger than 1m by 1.5m!
It seams like to me, the best way to approach the back over staining problem, would be to try getting the back of the guitar ready 1st and apply the sealer so it could soak into the wood and prevent the top dye from discoloring the mahogany….
have you tried this? if so, how'd it go? I'm about to do my first PRS build so I'm looking for any tips I can get lol
I've done this on my latest couple of builds actually, I quite like finishing the back prior to staining the top. However if you're using a cellulose based sealer and a spirit based dye, you need to be careful that the dye doesn't melt into the sealer.
With the black first you only want to apply enough to accentuate the woodgrain, to 'make it pop', so you only need a thin veneer of black, no need to rub and rub it in. Remember, you have to sand it all off so a thin coat of black means less sanding.
Thanks for the tip
Thank you for filming your process ! Did you build the guitar or is it a kit? If it is a kit where can I get one that the best McCarthy style I’ve ever seen
Thanks Michael, no this is a scratch build, all my builds are. You can see the full build thread on Project Guitar: www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/50679-davids-prs-and-matts-tele/?page=7&tab=comments#comment-597584
@@ADFinlayson holy fuck its amazing
did you make the body yourself or is it a kit?
No mate, I bought pre squared off blanks and the top was already bookmatched, apart from that it's all done from scratch. If you check out my latest vid, that's how I carve them: ua-cam.com/video/KDraemNcoTc/v-deo.html
Where’s the PRS kit from?
How do you remove top clear coat with some liquid stuff like paint thinner?
I normally just sand finishing off
Top Notch
"A CU24, with the thickness and carve of a McCarty": Wow, PRS should really put something like that into production.
It does exist, its called a Fatback Cu24.
I had no idea that model existed, every days a school day :)
How would you do a schecter like black cherry finish?
you could do the same thing with brown then red, I have a feeling Schecter just spay a trans red on the top and back of their hellraiser though
Great video. Have you tried Abranet for sanding ? If not do. It doesn’t clog like sandpaper, and keeps and keeps its cut for longer...
I've been replacing all my sandpaper with Mirka over the last year or so but I haven't tried their Abranet so I'll give it a try when the workshop is back up and running, thanks for the tip
@@ADFinlayson It’s not exactly cheap but it lasts for ages...
Could you use a 15 degree router bit in a binding router setup like stew macs. Instead of sanding ? Ever tried that?
I'm not sure I understand what you mean Greg
Ya Neex FROG TAPE. Seals the Edges when Wet!!!
Is that a Schecter? Looks a lot like the Blackjack ATX C-1 I’m getting ready to repair/refinish. It’s got some “ex” damage but she didn’t hurt it too bad. I’m wondering if you’d recommend super glue to fill the dent (about 1/4” squared) since I’m going to sand and refinish the whole guitar anyway? Your thoughts are most welcomed!
No it's a PRS style build I did back in 2019/20. When you've got the finish stripped, you might want to try a soldering iron and a damp towel, or an iron and damp towel depending on the dent size to expand any compressed fibres before you start filling.
Blue is primary color.
What finish you are using after this nice blue ? Thanks
Watch part 2, all explained there
Water base is good
Did you sand the back of the neck before you stained it? And what order do you do the neck, like sand, paint, sand, paint?
Not sure I understand your question
so does it matter if you sand with the grain when you are sanding off stain? OR are you purposely sanding against the grain for some reason unknown to me?
Well a lot of people use a small orbital sander to remove stain which rotates at random so theoretically sanding/grain direction doesn't matter. I would generally use an orbital on a flat top but that's a real pita in a carve top guitar, especially with those pot recesses.
Would you use black to pop the color using green as the main color? Building my 1st kit and scouring UA-cam for paint/dye tutorials.
Yes, or brown
@@ADFinlayson do you have a dye you recommend? You do outstanding work!
@@mknewlan67 I like crimson water based dyes and angelus leather dyes
Where did you buy your blue stain and what is it called?
that was angelus blue leather dye
where did you pickup this kit? I can't find a PRS style kit with a binding anywhere.
It's not a kit. All the finishing videos you see on my channel are of guitars I've made.
Can you use a wipe on poly over stain like that? Or is lacquer more shiny?
Sorry for the slow response. You can use a wipe on poly as long as you seal it will first or it will pull quite a lot of colour off. I used to use minwax wipeon poly to finish guitars in that way prior to spraying.
Would painting on some wax free shellac along the faux binding area prior to dying the top prevent bleed through onto the sides?
To a degree, I've tried sealing the sides before and found it not worth the effort. The issue with the sides is more about the dye soaking down from the top into the edges rather than just dripping over the edge.
@@ADFinlayson my thinking was the shellac would help seal up the end grain, so the color wouldn't wick into it so easily.
where did you get the kit?
would the tape stick better if you used a heat gun
maybe, it would probably be a pita to get all the residue off though.
Prs tape and use an isolator to keep any accidental runoff
Yes I saw that video by PRS, much more recent than my video though! I think the method varies at PRS depending on the guy that is doing the stain job. But I also use that method to seal the inside of F-holes before staining. If you watch episode 2 onwards of my GGBO series, you can see I do that.
Cheers
Ash
Are stain and dye the same?
2 different terms to describe the same product. They are really just dye, a wood stain is more like a finish - coloured oils etc
do you use 240 grit to sand the black dye ? or 320?
It depends how much the wood has soaked up the dye, I normally start with 320 and work my way down if I need something more corse
@@ADFinlayson awesome. thank you for the info
How sensitive you are. It wasn't a critiscism of your music tastes just your manners, but you just reinforced that.
🥸
i want to buy it now HOW
You would have to order one from me. Cheers Ash
Scratches are my arch enemy as well.
What brand guitar kit is this?
It's not a kit
What kinda stain are you using
Those are alcohols based dyes by Liberon and Angelus
Is it the leather dye?
@@kimberlywolfe4513 ebay.us/GAef6J
Ty very much
Polyester top Coat
OHHH 😣😣IT'S UNHAPPY...NATURAL FINISH I THINK WOULD BE GREATEST,....WHY???""CAUSE THE SHAPE OF THE BODY BACK AND TOP SIDE WAS WORKING WITH A BEAUTIFUL WOODS AS WALNUT!??!!?☝🙏🙏..FOR MYSELF I LIKE TO MUCH THAT SOLYDBODY WOODS DESIGN 👏👏👍👍👌✌
Good ASMR but I came here for guitar. Can’t keep my eyes open
😴
Would have liked to watch this video, but the music is a little too distracting, cant really focus on your talking. Sorry. The song is fine, but its gaining my attention to it instead of the video itself.
Try one of my newer videos
Great video but please dude, turn down the music. You shouldn't impose your tatses on us all.
I’m sorry my taste in music has offended your inferior ears, I’ll use Fleshgod Apocalypse next time
How annoying is that music? Enough to make me turn it off after 7 minutes.
The music playing in my ear while listening to you talk is very very annoying.
Link for the tape? Thanks.
The green stuff is frog tape, available at most diy shops, probably on Amazon
@@ADFinlayson Thanks...have that. Wasn't sure if it'd work for stain as well as paint.
@@CloudfeatherRusticWorks the trick to stain that prs lower horn scoop is to get the tape really burnished down and get all the excess dye off the rag, you don't need much dye on end grain anyway because it soaks it up more and goes way darker.
@@ADFinlayson Thanks for the tip. I'm doing a black cherry lower with osage top. I'm not sure if I'm going to with stain or vinegaroon to ebonize the wood, but the idea is to do a sort of sunburst inspired effect on the top.