I’m a salesman at a lumberyard in Oklahoma and have sold Diamond Kote for 12 years. Around 90% of the siding jobs we sell are Diamond Kote. I’ve also installed it on 5 different projects, the first one being 11 years ago and the last one being 2 years ago. When we first started selling it we took the claimed 30yr no-fade warranty at face value. We’ve had to change our sales pitch. It is a good/great product but it DOES fade and get chalky, at least in Oklahoma. We get extreme temperatures, wind, and sun so I’d consider it a more harsh environment than some other areas of the country. I would make peace with repainting it 15 yrs after installation if you purchase it. The 30 yr no fade warranty is prorated. If you have a claim 15 yrs after installation it might pay for the paint to refinish but no labor. That all said, I installed it on our new home 2 yrs ago and I’d do the same if I built another one because I think the finish is better than you can achieve traditionaly.
@mahlonboehs2589 same here but in Northern NY. But people don't want to hear it. What would make it game-changing is if it was made the same way as their subfloor. Or Advantech.
I used this product on my home. I found using pan head screws on the nailing flanges works better than nails. Reason being if your hammer even grazes the J channel it will have a noticeable blemish that is hard to repair. If you are putting lap siding, I alternated 6" and 12" lap, it gets pinched in the J channel so you might have to give it a few taps to make sure it is in place. They should think of making two sizes of J channel. I installed mine like Jake does with 3/8" fir plywood strips over Zip system. I contacted Wausau Supply to ask them about it and the rep that contacted me said Zip and rain screens are a waste of time an money. He was trying to sell me on Raindrop, which they sell, but when I asked about air sealing he had no response. I had an issue with their exterior door and after contacting them several times a rep finally came out. The door had a couple defects and the rep kept saying who cares if it leaks air, you want your house to breath. The product seemed good but had issues with customer service.
The old trope of "Houses are like people. They need to breathe" is SO done. Houses that leak air are NOT energy-efficient, and that topic has been covered time and time again on this and many other construction channels.
@dionh70 I agree and disagree. Unless your HVAC is pulling fresh air from the outside, the home needs to breathe a little bit. Now I don't mean purposely let air in. You don't want to wrap the entire exterior in non breathable wrap, and tape everything off. Having a structure completely air tight, and not drawing exterior air means you create a negative pressure inside every time the HVAC is running. Now, if you want to make it 100% air tight, then your HVAC system needs to accommodate that.
@@Black_Dirt_Contractor Of course the HVAC system needs to control the air coming into and leaving the home. That's one of the main points of creating an energy efficient home. You control what air enters/leaves the home, and you get to filter it. Unlike a leaking home that is subject to cold air entering the home in the winter and hot, humid, pollen and smoke filled air entering in the summer. It's an entire system when thinking about high performance homes, but you can't have one if you're not building it air tight.
@luke9822 I don't disagree with what you said. I can't argue with you. There are plenty of homes I've been in that are not pulling air in from outside. Therefore, creating a negative pressure inside.
@@Black_Dirt_Contractor How does running a normal HVAC create negative pressure for a home unless some form of exhaust to the outside is in place and active? And while on that note, I’m curious… what is the standard practice for introducing outside air for creating positive pressure in residential applications? Is it just a matter of getting a fancy enough of an air handler made to accept some amount of outside air intake like I’ve seen in commercial systems? Or makeup air vents I’ve seen on commercial kitchens for creating the “air curtain”? Is there a such thing as some kind of standalone, add-on, auxiliary vent system for the sole purpose of introducing outside air for creating slightly positive pressure?
Hey Matt - I watch most of your videos and have learned so much. As a homeowner in an urban-wild land interface, it would be great to see you do a comprehensive upgrade for wildfire protection.
For a period of time, my mother owned a house with slate tiles on both the roof and siding. That house is about 105 years old and the slate is is still in great shape and may last another 100 years or more. There are also numerous houses in that town that are over 125 years old and have original wood siding (albeit with multiple coats of paint over the years).
One thing i dont see often is using rabbets at each trim joint. It takes about an extra 30 seconds per joint and when it does open up it will still be protected underneath.
Cedar is good if you keep up with it. UV destroys wood here, so it's gotta have good paint and or stain to protect it or the UV and water will kill it fast.
It is just refinished LP SMartside LP® SmartSide® siding is a Class C (III) rated product when tested according to ASTM E84. All LP® SmartSide® siding can be used in a 1-hour fire rated assembly when it is installed over 5/8 Type X gypsum, which is consistent with other siding types such as fiber cement siding.
Hey Matt - why do you like this product over the Everlast siding? This is coated OSB - and Everlast has nothing in it that will ever rot. And they have a 50 year warranty too…
Do the baton's need caulking? Are the vertical rain screen runners on top of the wool insulation? Why not put a wrap product to face the wool insulation? or will that never be an issue with any moisture getting behind (condensation or not)?
I was told it had a great fire proof rating when the sales rep talked me into buying this for my house. There was quite a bit a scrap cuts so I tested that fire rating. The scraps caught fire almost as fast as paper!!! Worse, once it caught fire it was close to impossible to put it out. I absolutely love the look and it’s a DIY friendly product BUT the sales reps will lie to you and tell you anything to get you to buy this over JHB or metal siding. I am currently building my dream home and I am NOT using this product because wildfires are a concern and this product will provide ZERO protection. Don’t trust anyone including what I am saying. Get a sample and if they won’t give you a sample buy a small piece and test it yourself.
Seems like good siding, but what happens after 30 years when it starts fading? Do you use regular paint to fix that or will they sell you a proprietary paint that will cost $$$?
I'm looking at the roof space. An incredible slant plane of (whatever) material. Looks like a huge huge space. What could happen there? Many outrageous ideas. Maybe a 20 foot square level deck (up there) with a railing, a picnic table and grill area, an elevator or "lift" from the kitchen, stairs, and telescope for the stars at night. The stairs could be outside and a quick build. Yea. A "Roof Deck." I'll bet Matt would approve. Or ~ Maybe something heavy duty like that could land a helicopter? Who knows? Just imagine. ✨
I am originally from Diamond Coats hometown and have used them in Northern Wisconsin and Michigan....but I am about to build in New Mexico. How is the fire rating?
How do you flash the tops of the trim on the windows? Under a porch I suppose it’s fine, but that stuff is a literal gutter on a wall where it will be exposed to any type of driving rain…how is that not addressed!!??
Looks like OSB to me and I am skeptical of any OSB especially since i am getting ready to put metal over 3500sf of LP that is rotting. It would be great if it is good but we wont know for 20 years. I might get some for a trial. Good luck your will need it since no other OSB is much good.
What is the impact resistance of this material? What happens when you get a massive hail storm? And how is that compared to other siding types, like Hardieboard?
I would be curious to hear your thoughts on a brick product called Novabrik as an option for a wainscoting. Saw it at a local limberyard and has my curiousity peaked.
Here's and homest review of their products: I tried to keep it short. I'm currently installing Diamond Kote Board and Batten, and Rigid Stack on a home. Unless it's a new construction home, where framing will accommodate the siding, it's almost impossible to install per warranty restrictions. The board is exactly 16" wide, and if you space it 3/8" like they require, you will automatically lose 3/4" every 4'. This means you will not be able to nail every board to a stud, along with every batten. Trim is wider than standard American framing around windows and doors. Any vertical trim will almost never be nailed into 1" of wood, which is required to meet warranty. Horizontal you can, but only every 32" if I remember correctly. The nail flanges dont accommodate standard 16" stud spacing. So you will only have a few nails into 1" of wood. Rigid stack is a tick over 16'. Any wall with more than 3 pieces per row means you will have to cut the end off to ensure you're nailing it into a stud, at the joints where the H Clip is being used. If you want installation help, don't watch their vidoes. They don't represent how they tell you to install their product. What I mean is, is it's contradictory. And they don't represent real world, in the field installation. There's other guys on the web that are much better at explaining the installation process, and actually offer better ideas. It's not a horrible product. I just feel like some salesmen thought they could make a better product but have little installation experience. Because if they did, they'd make some changes to their products. There's a huge difference in knowing how to install something and actually being able to install something.
Matt, this is slightly off topic but do have any information on Commercial roofing best practices? There is a church in my community that I’m trying to assist in there new roof and remodel.
I wanted to use pre-finished Hardie panels on my house, had them spec'ed. They were discontinued in the middle of my build. The installer was trying to steer me away from them the whole time as well. Maybe these guys will make it, this approach didn't work out for me.
That’s oversimplified. There are rot inhibitors and a high quality finish plus a lot of accessory elements (nailing flanges, pre-finished matching flashing and trim, etc.) for water management that make it perform way better than T1-11. Can you imagine a 50 year warranty on T1-11? 😂😂😂. Not in a million years! I think the comparison to Huber AdvanTech subfloor or even AdvanTech X-Factor is more apt. In other words, just part of the continuing evolution of engineered wood products. Diamond Kote is probably not a product that I would ever consider using, but I can see why people would use it. Whereas I wouldn’t use T1-11 on a tool shed.
@@MichaelJ674 T1-11 is super durable as long as the bottom isn’t sitting in constant moisture. I think this product is closer to T1-11 than it isn’t. Particularly the pre-painted T1-11 that uses the same thick coating of paint that this stuff appears to. I just helped a friend remodel a 1980’d slump block home that used T1-11 for the gable ends and the same manufactured type trim pieces etc and it was in perfect condition.
@@MichaelJ674 I hope this building doesn't have any east-west walls. If it does, the owner will regret his/her choice at the end of every sunny day. This product won't stay flat over the span of the fur strips. 50 years my...
@@incognito6469why do you think that? I have this on my house in Mountain Lake color (sort of bluish gray) with south west exposure and even when it gets baked all day in the sun it seems to be fine. This is 8 years into owning it...
I was told it had a great fire proof rating when the sales rep talked me into buying this for my house. There was quite a bit a scrap cuts so I tested that fire rating. The scraps caught fire almost as fast as paper!!! Worse, once it caught fire it was close to impossible to put it out. I absolutely love the look and it’s a DIY friendly product BUT the sales reps will lie to you and tell you anything to get you to buy this over JHB or metal siding. I am currently building my dream home and I am NOT using this product because wildfires are a concern and this product will provide ZERO protection. Don’t trust anyone including what I am saying. Get a sample and if they won’t give you a sample buy a small piece and test it yourself.
@@Jim-xh7hi Yeah he's always shilling crap but usually I still like his content. This one is ridiculous though because he's talked so much shit about not trusting LP Smartside when this is just LP Smartside with a fancy coating.
What are the issues with LP SmartSide that have been discussed? (I'm literally planning to place an order with Diamond Kote tomorrow, so it's our last chance for us to back out of it.)
@@dosadoodle I might be late, but the main complaint is that it rots, I haven't seen it rot personally but you can see videos of it on youtube. People also don't like that it's not fireproof so they'd rather go with Hardie. Hardie has it's own problems though, and there are tons of Hardie horror stories on youtube also. There is no perfect siding, so it's just about choosing which one you think will work best for you.
I don't like osb never have if everything is done perfect it works never liked the cement board either but I've come to except that when everything is done within specs it'll work im always able to see nail heads though
I got a quote for DiamondKote in Canada and it was ~$47 a square foot. Are people paying that much in the US? (that is about $35 USD). That seems very expensive.
Matt’s obviously taking the Diamond Kote rep’s claims at face value. You can tell by some of his comments and reactions that Matt had little or no prior experience with or knowledge of this product coming in. Nice to see comments from people who have actually used the product. Sounds like it’s LP Smartside with better detailing and a better finish at a premium price, but you’ll still have to maintain it, watch any caulk joints, and expect to repaint in 15 years. And it still looks like fake wood, but a lot of people don’t really care about that. Those are my impressions anyway. Probably not a product I would consider for up here in the Pacific Northwest where I live, but nice to see another siding option that’s out there that I wasn’t previously familiar with.
50 years on the integrity of the material and 30 year fade warranty is what I heard. Prorated as others have pointed out which is typical for construction materials (the prorated part, not the 50/30 part).
It appears that this product is just LP Smartside with an extra coating (Diamond Kote) and their own twist - adding the specialty routering and flashings attached. It's a nice end product but couldn't LP just do this themselves? Wait. It's a little confusing. Is this company actually part of LP? Or did they just option the use of LP under their coating product?
The ultimate siding? You could go pretty far with "ultimate." Three feet thick solid titanium? That should hold up against a tank shell. Wonder how much it would cost... I'll just go with 8 inch thick granite blocks.
I doubt it, I got a piece of LP smart side that's been laying out in the backyard for 2 years and it's in better shape than the PT 2x4 scrap next to it. Ground contact is hell on wood here, it eats it up in no time.
Only in the US is 'Lasting for Decades' considered worth mentioning at all. The US is so far behind Europe in building it's just funny to watch. The building shown would be considered to be a 'Temporary Structure' in Europe because of the wooden construction, something a farmer might build. How long will it last before it rots or is eaten by bugs? 30 years max? I'm sitting in a house built in 1863 from bricks, it will be here in another 161 years.
There are wood framed structures even in Europe that are 700+ years old. Masonry construction isn’t necessarily better or more long lasting, it just fits a different purpose. The U.S. does a lot more wood frame construction than much of Europe bc we’ve historically had much more forests suitable for lumber harvesting. Also, of note, much of the U.S. has shifting soils and/or earthquakes that make masonry structures unsuitable- wood can flex, masonry less so.
this was just a hokey commercial not some bespoke hard earned artisanal knowledge - i would rather see a siding shootout that is more wide open and brings in experts to hear their opinions - installation is a big part of the job no matter how good the product is
Looks ugly af, all these barndominium builds look like storefronts. I find black and white on houses to be ugly af too, not a trend for me. Will look as bad as all the weird ass houses they built in the 80's in a couple years.
Black roof, black bricks, in Texas, this homeowner must not care AT ALL ‘about energy use, and with all those pieces individually wrapped in nonrecyclable plastic film… I don’t generally leave critical comments but this is not an environmentally friendly home. The owners made a lot of bad decisions.
This stuff is crap. $$$$$$, and I had to repaint the sides of the trim because they were so badly painted. They are the only place I could find smooth finish LP panels.
i know it might see cool and makes a big splash of legitimacy to be involved in these new beautiful home builds... but it does start to come across a bit detached from reality and honestly irresponsible. If you're just selling products, just say that and do it. Thats fine, whatever. But don't represent yourself as something else (a building science expert). What we really need in the US is less McMansions for the rich and more straight forward housing for the common American. You are making yourself too exclusive and frivolous. I suggest a refocus on well built homes. Safe homes that keeps water and weather out, and safety and comfort in. This can be building science, but it shouldn't be rocket science. It needs to be accessible to every homeowner in America. Not a shiny beacon on a hill that no American ever gets to taste. Use you're platform for good, not more corporate greed.
I agree and think it is accessible to those who know, unfortunately there seems to be a disconnect... prices and people (businesses) wanting to make BIGGER profits off of people who just want a decent home. This channel has definitely transformed into more marketing but I like it as it does provide “some” science to new products but it doesn’t save any $$
Is it better to need an extra paint job in 15 years? Between the gas for the painters to drive to/from the job, the materials going into the paint itself, and plastic and other materials the painters will use, 25-50 pounds of plastic waste seems like the smaller impact. And if some plastic pieces are kept clean, they can even be recycled (by no means a wholesale recovery, but better than the trash).
And I would bet my next paycheck you’re going to be repainting within 15 years anyway despite the 30 year fade warranty warranty (which is prorated and doesn’t include labor).
@@MichaelJ674the 30 year warranty for material costs isn’t prorated, and labor is covered in full at 1.25 sq/ft for the first 7 years and then prorates from years 8-15. Year 15 you have no labor coverage, but the material cost is covered fully thru year 30.
@@raymondergarcia You're right, you can't sincerely call it a barn. They look more like a warehouse. Real old fashion barns look much nicer. Maybe the owner has a legitimate need for that volume.
@@daveklein2826 how about you elaborate on your experience with the product? How many installs have you done? Any issues? You've had nothing but perfect results it sounds like.
HEY WOULD YOU CONSIDER DOING A HOME REMODEL FOR A GUY LIKE ME AND DO AN EPISODE GOT A LOT OF WORK THAT CAN BE DONE AND I WOULD LOVE FOR YOU GUYS TO CONSIDER THEN RECENTLY TRYING TO REMODEL IT ON A DIME STORE SHELF BUDGET HOPE YOU CONSIDER THANKS HAVE A GREAT DAY
@@MichaelJ674 I almost asked the same thing, but I also realized that he's probably so unaware of online etiquette that he wouldn't understand the question.
I’m a salesman at a lumberyard in Oklahoma and have sold Diamond Kote for 12 years. Around 90% of the siding jobs we sell are Diamond Kote. I’ve also installed it on 5 different projects, the first one being 11 years ago and the last one being 2 years ago. When we first started selling it we took the claimed 30yr no-fade warranty at face value. We’ve had to change our sales pitch. It is a good/great product but it DOES fade and get chalky, at least in Oklahoma. We get extreme temperatures, wind, and sun so I’d consider it a more harsh environment than some other areas of the country. I would make peace with repainting it 15 yrs after installation if you purchase it. The 30 yr no fade warranty is prorated. If you have a claim 15 yrs after installation it might pay for the paint to refinish but no labor.
That all said, I installed it on our new home 2 yrs ago and I’d do the same if I built another one because I think the finish is better than you can achieve traditionaly.
@mahlonboehs2589 same here but in Northern NY.
But people don't want to hear it.
What would make it game-changing is if it was made the same way as their subfloor. Or Advantech.
I used this product on my home. I found using pan head screws on the nailing flanges works better than nails. Reason being if your hammer even grazes the J channel it will have a noticeable blemish that is hard to repair. If you are putting lap siding, I alternated 6" and 12" lap, it gets pinched in the J channel so you might have to give it a few taps to make sure it is in place. They should think of making two sizes of J channel. I installed mine like Jake does with 3/8" fir plywood strips over Zip system. I contacted Wausau Supply to ask them about it and the rep that contacted me said Zip and rain screens are a waste of time an money. He was trying to sell me on Raindrop, which they sell, but when I asked about air sealing he had no response. I had an issue with their exterior door and after contacting them several times a rep finally came out. The door had a couple defects and the rep kept saying who cares if it leaks air, you want your house to breath. The product seemed good but had issues with customer service.
The old trope of "Houses are like people. They need to breathe" is SO done. Houses that leak air are NOT energy-efficient, and that topic has been covered time and time again on this and many other construction channels.
@dionh70 I agree and disagree. Unless your HVAC is pulling fresh air from the outside, the home needs to breathe a little bit. Now I don't mean purposely let air in. You don't want to wrap the entire exterior in non breathable wrap, and tape everything off. Having a structure completely air tight, and not drawing exterior air means you create a negative pressure inside every time the HVAC is running. Now, if you want to make it 100% air tight, then your HVAC system needs to accommodate that.
@@Black_Dirt_Contractor Of course the HVAC system needs to control the air coming into and leaving the home. That's one of the main points of creating an energy efficient home. You control what air enters/leaves the home, and you get to filter it. Unlike a leaking home that is subject to cold air entering the home in the winter and hot, humid, pollen and smoke filled air entering in the summer. It's an entire system when thinking about high performance homes, but you can't have one if you're not building it air tight.
@luke9822 I don't disagree with what you said. I can't argue with you. There are plenty of homes I've been in that are not pulling air in from outside. Therefore, creating a negative pressure inside.
@@Black_Dirt_Contractor How does running a normal HVAC create negative pressure for a home unless some form of exhaust to the outside is in place and active?
And while on that note, I’m curious… what is the standard practice for introducing outside air for creating positive pressure in residential applications? Is it just a matter of getting a fancy enough of an air handler made to accept some amount of outside air intake like I’ve seen in commercial systems? Or makeup air vents I’ve seen on commercial kitchens for creating the “air curtain”? Is there a such thing as some kind of standalone, add-on, auxiliary vent system for the sole purpose of introducing outside air for creating slightly positive pressure?
Hey Matt - I watch most of your videos and have learned so much. As a homeowner in an urban-wild land interface, it would be great to see you do a comprehensive upgrade for wildfire protection.
Love this channel. I still live in the home I designed and built/had built 30 years ago. It’s wonderful comfortable living.
Certainly my favorite episode. Nicely done Brandon!!!
Looks like the heavy paint and faux natural wood found on Tough Sheds. Or the 1980’s homes that combined slump block and the T1-11 type product.
For a period of time, my mother owned a house with slate tiles on both the roof and siding. That house is about 105 years old and the slate is is still in great shape and may last another 100 years or more. There are also numerous houses in that town that are over 125 years old and have original wood siding (albeit with multiple coats of paint over the years).
Capillary Break is a great band name.
Matt always features products that find a way to squeeze more money out of you.
Reminds me of "This Old House", from trustworthy knowledgeable craftsmen, to shameless shills for the 'latest and greatest'
50 year siding?
I don’t mean to brag but the pine siding on my house is 120 years old. Still has loads of life left too!
Yeah, the pine siding on my house is 50 years old and doing fine. Siding SHOULD last 50 years.
Mine just hit 90 years, just had a fresh repaint. No rot anywhere, looks nearly new.
Pine trees these days aren't what they were like 120yrs ago...
It's the warranty, dum dums
60 yo cedar on mine in the PNW. If you keep it painted and make sure it is draining right... I don't see why it wouldn't last.
Love the content, Matt. See you at the Conference.
Dunno if im sold on a friction fit trim in the cold climates??
I know a custom home builder in Michigan that uses DK. He says the product looks amazing and is his favorite siding product to use!
One thing i dont see often is using rabbets at each trim joint. It takes about an extra 30 seconds per joint and when it does open up it will still be protected underneath.
FYI my 10" cedar lap siding is still standing strong after 75 years despite humid MN summers and fridgid icy winters
How's the air control layer on your house?
Cedar is good if you keep up with it. UV destroys wood here, so it's gotta have good paint and or stain to protect it or the UV and water will kill it fast.
75 years without painting?
Mine is not. 49 years old. Shrinkage.
Kyle and Greg have been using this same system for years on his RR builds. He's using LP Smart siding though. Great system.
It's the same. They just take Smartside, refinish it, and add some extra finishing details.
@rojigga13 some of the shots looked as if the install was mhew...
Matt cant mention LP smartside on his channel because of his Huber sponsorship
@@rowdynoe9595 That makes sense! Unsponsored takes would be so much better, but I guess Matt ain't gonna bite the hand that feeds. A shame really.
Would like your take on Everlast Siding.
So, what is the fire rating on this system, versus cement fiber (like Hardieboard)? What is the STC rating on this system, compared to other siding?
@buildshow this needs answers please
@mattrisinger
It is just refinished LP SMartside
LP® SmartSide® siding is a Class C (III) rated product when tested according to ASTM E84. All LP® SmartSide® siding can be used in a 1-hour fire rated assembly when it is installed over 5/8 Type X gypsum, which is consistent with other siding types such as fiber cement siding.
Hey Matt - why do you like this product over the Everlast siding? This is coated OSB - and Everlast has nothing in it that will ever rot. And they have a 50 year warranty too…
Matt are you hiding in my trunk? I just got home with samples of this stuff from the lumber yard
If I plan to use this over ICF do I need to put the 1x4's every 16 inches or can I go straight to the ties in the ICF?
Their instructions specifically say not to attach directly to ICF. Need to use furring strips.
@buildshow how did you detail around the bent metal awnings so the diamondkote didn't bulge out at the awnings? Rout out the back of the DK?
Do the baton's need caulking? Are the vertical rain screen runners on top of the wool insulation? Why not put a wrap product to face the wool insulation? or will that never be an issue with any moisture getting behind (condensation or not)?
An awning you can stand on!
Isn't that just LP Smartside with proprietary accessories/finishes?
Yes.
In this age of wildfire, how does it hold up or compare
I was told it had a great fire proof rating when the sales rep talked me into buying this for my house. There was quite a bit a scrap cuts so I tested that fire rating. The scraps caught fire almost as fast as paper!!! Worse, once it caught fire it was close to impossible to put it out.
I absolutely love the look and it’s a DIY friendly product BUT the sales reps will lie to you and tell you anything to get you to buy this over JHB or metal siding. I am currently building my dream home and I am NOT using this product because wildfires are a concern and this product will provide ZERO protection.
Don’t trust anyone including what I am saying. Get a sample and if they won’t give you a sample buy a small piece and test it yourself.
Why not use pre-finished steel siding? Is this stuff a lot cheaper?
Isn’t the flashing suppose to go directly on the wall and rain screen on top so it can repel any water that get behind the siding ?
Seems like good siding, but what happens after 30 years when it starts fading? Do you use regular paint to fix that or will they sell you a proprietary paint that will cost $$$?
I'm looking at the roof space. An incredible slant plane of (whatever) material. Looks like a huge huge space. What could happen there? Many outrageous ideas. Maybe a 20 foot square level deck (up there) with a railing, a picnic table and grill area, an elevator or "lift" from the kitchen, stairs, and telescope for the stars at night. The stairs could be outside and a quick build. Yea. A "Roof Deck." I'll bet Matt would approve. Or ~ Maybe something heavy duty like that could land a helicopter? Who knows? Just imagine. ✨
11:25 how do you then prevent bugs from coming in if the gap is left there?
You can use insect screening or something like Cor-A-Vent siding vents to keep insects out of a rainscreen.
I am originally from Diamond Coats hometown and have used them in Northern Wisconsin and Michigan....but I am about to build in New Mexico. How is the fire rating?
Probably not compliant. IF you are in a WUI, definitely not compliant.
How do you flash the tops of the trim on the windows? Under a porch I suppose it’s fine, but that stuff is a literal gutter on a wall where it will be exposed to any type of driving rain…how is that not addressed!!??
With the air gap behind the siding, how do you prevent termites, spiders, etc from entering ?
Bug screen at the top and bottom
How does this stuff stand up to golfball sized hail?
from their website: "Our siding has been tested for hail damage and showed no cracks or breaks by 1.75″ hail at 81 MPH"
I'd be more concerned with that roof being destroyed by such hail. I love metal roofing, but golfball-sized chunks of ice ARE gonna dent it.
Looks like OSB to me and I am skeptical of any OSB especially since i am getting ready to put metal over 3500sf of LP that is rotting. It would be great if it is good but we wont know for 20 years. I might get some for a trial. Good luck your will need it since no other OSB is much good.
Great work, Matt!
What is the impact resistance of this material? What happens when you get a massive hail storm? And how is that compared to other siding types, like Hardieboard?
The impact resistance is better than hardieboard.
I would be curious to hear your thoughts on a brick product called Novabrik as an option for a wainscoting. Saw it at a local limberyard and has my curiousity peaked.
Here's and homest review of their products: I tried to keep it short.
I'm currently installing Diamond Kote Board and Batten, and Rigid Stack on a home. Unless it's a new construction home, where framing will accommodate the siding, it's almost impossible to install per warranty restrictions.
The board is exactly 16" wide, and if you space it 3/8" like they require, you will automatically lose 3/4" every 4'. This means you will not be able to nail every board to a stud, along with every batten. Trim is wider than standard American framing around windows and doors. Any vertical trim will almost never be nailed into 1" of wood, which is required to meet warranty. Horizontal you can, but only every 32" if I remember correctly. The nail flanges dont accommodate standard 16" stud spacing. So you will only have a few nails into 1" of wood.
Rigid stack is a tick over 16'. Any wall with more than 3 pieces per row means you will have to cut the end off to ensure you're nailing it into a stud, at the joints where the H Clip is being used.
If you want installation help, don't watch their vidoes. They don't represent how they tell you to install their product. What I mean is, is it's contradictory. And they don't represent real world, in the field installation. There's other guys on the web that are much better at explaining the installation process, and actually offer better ideas.
It's not a horrible product. I just feel like some salesmen thought they could make a better product but have little installation experience. Because if they did, they'd make some changes to their products. There's a huge difference in knowing how to install something and actually being able to install something.
Well I wonder if this is something designed for a different standard and being imported into the U.S. - square peg going into a round hole.
@@tsicby good point. That I don't know. Not enough experience on my end I reckon.
Matt, this is slightly off topic but do have any information on Commercial roofing best practices? There is a church in my community that I’m trying to assist in there new roof and remodel.
Interesting details.
I wanted to use pre-finished Hardie panels on my house, had them spec'ed. They were discontinued in the middle of my build. The installer was trying to steer me away from them the whole time as well. Maybe these guys will make it, this approach didn't work out for me.
Modern day T1-11. OSB instead of ply. What's with the excitement?
Lol right?
That’s oversimplified. There are rot inhibitors and a high quality finish plus a lot of accessory elements (nailing flanges, pre-finished matching flashing and trim, etc.) for water management that make it perform way better than T1-11. Can you imagine a 50 year warranty on T1-11? 😂😂😂. Not in a million years!
I think the comparison to Huber AdvanTech subfloor or even AdvanTech X-Factor is more apt. In other words, just part of the continuing evolution of engineered wood products. Diamond Kote is probably not a product that I would ever consider using, but I can see why people would use it. Whereas I wouldn’t use T1-11 on a tool shed.
@@MichaelJ674 T1-11 is super durable as long as the bottom isn’t sitting in constant moisture. I think this product is closer to T1-11 than it isn’t. Particularly the pre-painted T1-11 that uses the same thick coating of paint that this stuff appears to. I just helped a friend remodel a 1980’d slump block home that used T1-11 for the gable ends and the same manufactured type trim pieces etc and it was in perfect condition.
@@MichaelJ674 I hope this building doesn't have any east-west walls. If it does, the owner will regret his/her choice at the end of every sunny day. This product won't stay flat over the span of the fur strips. 50 years my...
@@incognito6469why do you think that? I have this on my house in Mountain Lake color (sort of bluish gray) with south west exposure and even when it gets baked all day in the sun it seems to be fine. This is 8 years into owning it...
Very nice.
I got a quote for DiamondKote in Canada and it was ~$47 a square foot. Are people paying that much in the US? (that is about $35 USD).
Fire Resistance?
Didnt see anything on their website. Thats a no go for me.
@@pin65371 I'm thinking steel siding and roof would be better for a wildfire prone area
@@ComfortablyNumb1969 Fiber cement won't burn either.
I was told it had a great fire proof rating when the sales rep talked me into buying this for my house. There was quite a bit a scrap cuts so I tested that fire rating. The scraps caught fire almost as fast as paper!!! Worse, once it caught fire it was close to impossible to put it out.
I absolutely love the look and it’s a DIY friendly product BUT the sales reps will lie to you and tell you anything to get you to buy this over JHB or metal siding. I am currently building my dream home and I am NOT using this product because wildfires are a concern and this product will provide ZERO protection.
Don’t trust anyone including what I am saying. Get a sample and if they won’t give you a sample buy a small piece and test it yourself.
@@JP-kb4yiAs you know, there is no such rating as "great"😂
So LP Smartside ❌
But LP Smartside with fancy coating ☑
@@Jim-xh7hi Yeah he's always shilling crap but usually I still like his content. This one is ridiculous though because he's talked so much shit about not trusting LP Smartside when this is just LP Smartside with a fancy coating.
What are the issues with LP SmartSide that have been discussed? (I'm literally planning to place an order with Diamond Kote tomorrow, so it's our last chance for us to back out of it.)
It’s a great product but don’t expect to go 30 yrs before repainting. I’d guess 15-20 yrs depending on the amount of exposure.
@@dosadoodle I might be late, but the main complaint is that it rots, I haven't seen it rot personally but you can see videos of it on youtube. People also don't like that it's not fireproof so they'd rather go with Hardie. Hardie has it's own problems though, and there are tons of Hardie horror stories on youtube also. There is no perfect siding, so it's just about choosing which one you think will work best for you.
@bobbygetsbanned6049 Yeah cement is better than fiber, for water and fire. Errors in installation only magnify the differences
Many use cheap painters caulk made for inside. Big Stretch and others perform better on exterior
Fire ratings?
Black roof? I missed location, but the heat gain must be important…
Why is Matt amazed by premade mounting blocks? We know that he knows about the ones made by SturdiMount and, heck, LP too.
I don't like osb never have if everything is done perfect it works never liked the cement board either but I've come to except that when everything is done within specs it'll work im always able to see nail heads though
I want!!
Did he mention cost?
Depends on your location. My area Missouri it’s about the same price as metal siding.
Around double what primed LP is.
Matt made a comparison to a Mercedes when he was talking about the finish, so that should tell you something 😁.
I got a quote for DiamondKote in Canada and it was ~$47 a square foot. Are people paying that much in the US? (that is about $35 USD). That seems very expensive.
I wonder if Matt likes this product he's being paid to say he likes.
Matt’s obviously taking the Diamond Kote rep’s claims at face value. You can tell by some of his comments and reactions that Matt had little or no prior experience with or knowledge of this product coming in. Nice to see comments from people who have actually used the product. Sounds like it’s LP Smartside with better detailing and a better finish at a premium price, but you’ll still have to maintain it, watch any caulk joints, and expect to repaint in 15 years. And it still looks like fake wood, but a lot of people don’t really care about that. Those are my impressions anyway. Probably not a product I would consider for up here in the Pacific Northwest where I live, but nice to see another siding option that’s out there that I wasn’t previously familiar with.
Most of the siding on my house was installed in 1897.
I didn’t get what the warranty was on the product…
50 years on the integrity of the material and 30 year fade warranty is what I heard. Prorated as others have pointed out which is typical for construction materials (the prorated part, not the 50/30 part).
@@MichaelJ674 I was being sarcastic since they kept on repeating it every 2mn but thanks for responding
It appears that this product is just LP Smartside with an extra coating (Diamond Kote) and their own twist - adding the specialty routering and flashings attached. It's a nice end product but couldn't LP just do this themselves?
Wait. It's a little confusing. Is this company actually part of LP? Or did they just option the use of LP under their coating product?
i thought diamond kote used LP siding products and modified them and painted them.
yup it is.
The ultimate siding? You could go pretty far with "ultimate." Three feet thick solid titanium? That should hold up against a tank shell. Wonder how much it would cost... I'll just go with 8 inch thick granite blocks.
I'm not a huge fan of Diamond Kote. It just fails at any imperfection that gets regular water exposure.
Prove it
I doubt it, I got a piece of LP smart side that's been laying out in the backyard for 2 years and it's in better shape than the PT 2x4 scrap next to it. Ground contact is hell on wood here, it eats it up in no time.
@@daveklein2826 where do you want me to send the pictures?
Unless you're in florida or the PNW, it holds up pretty well
@@tightbhole420 we're in the Thousand Islands region NY
13:57 that's a *lot* of plastic, unfortunately.
If you can’t afford hardy siding, I guess this would have to do.
Only in the US is 'Lasting for Decades' considered worth mentioning at all. The US is so far behind Europe in building it's just funny to watch. The building shown would be considered to be a 'Temporary Structure' in Europe because of the wooden construction, something a farmer might build. How long will it last before it rots or is eaten by bugs? 30 years max? I'm sitting in a house built in 1863 from bricks, it will be here in another 161 years.
There are wood framed structures even in Europe that are 700+ years old. Masonry construction isn’t necessarily better or more long lasting, it just fits a different purpose. The U.S. does a lot more wood frame construction than much of Europe bc we’ve historically had much more forests suitable for lumber harvesting. Also, of note, much of the U.S. has shifting soils and/or earthquakes that make masonry structures unsuitable- wood can flex, masonry less so.
ah yes, this comment 😂 enjoy your thermal bridging you luddites
My wood framed house I am in is over 100 years old already and is in perfect shape structurally.
this was just a hokey commercial not some bespoke hard earned artisanal knowledge - i would rather see a siding shootout that is more wide open and brings in experts to hear their opinions - installation is a big part of the job no matter how good the product is
Gee, I want some of that European siding, the stuff that's still working 800 yrs later
Cement plaster. Or an Eastern Euro favorite...brizolit!
i like the no frills architecture on that place... flat....
Looks ugly af, all these barndominium builds look like storefronts. I find black and white on houses to be ugly af too, not a trend for me. Will look as bad as all the weird ass houses they built in the 80's in a couple years.
It's time to show normal homes.
Black roof, black bricks, in Texas, this homeowner must not care AT ALL ‘about energy use, and with all those pieces individually wrapped in nonrecyclable plastic film… I don’t generally leave critical comments but this is not an environmentally friendly home. The owners made a lot of bad decisions.
"retirement house"
Infomercial. "smart siding" that is NOT smart. Not what I expect from the build show.
This stuff is crap. $$$$$$, and I had to repaint the sides of the trim because they were so badly painted. They are the only place I could find smooth finish LP panels.
i know it might see cool and makes a big splash of legitimacy to be involved in these new beautiful home builds... but it does start to come across a bit detached from reality and honestly irresponsible. If you're just selling products, just say that and do it. Thats fine, whatever. But don't represent yourself as something else (a building science expert). What we really need in the US is less McMansions for the rich and more straight forward housing for the common American. You are making yourself too exclusive and frivolous. I suggest a refocus on well built homes. Safe homes that keeps water and weather out, and safety and comfort in. This can be building science, but it shouldn't be rocket science. It needs to be accessible to every homeowner in America. Not a shiny beacon on a hill that no American ever gets to taste. Use you're platform for good, not more corporate greed.
I agree and think it is accessible to those who know, unfortunately there seems to be a disconnect... prices and people (businesses) wanting to make BIGGER profits off of people who just want a decent home. This channel has definitely transformed into more marketing but I like it as it does provide “some” science to new products but it doesn’t save any $$
I bet your brick mason hates you for installing this siding before he got there.
what is this a 5 million dollar house/?
Huge problem with plastic waste. Not a fan of all that packaging.
Is it better to need an extra paint job in 15 years? Between the gas for the painters to drive to/from the job, the materials going into the paint itself, and plastic and other materials the painters will use, 25-50 pounds of plastic waste seems like the smaller impact. And if some plastic pieces are kept clean, they can even be recycled (by no means a wholesale recovery, but better than the trash).
Couldn’t agree more, @MikeWeese. There has to be a better option for protecting the material.
And I would bet my next paycheck you’re going to be repainting within 15 years anyway despite the 30 year fade warranty warranty (which is prorated and doesn’t include labor).
@@MichaelJ674the 30 year warranty for material costs isn’t prorated, and labor is covered in full at 1.25 sq/ft for the first 7 years and then prorates from years 8-15. Year 15 you have no labor coverage, but the material cost is covered fully thru year 30.
Thanks for the info; that’s a much better warranty than most. I stand corrected.
That is one ugly ass building.
For all the money you could just do cedar and be good for 100yrs or so. Plastic sucks
I guess a lot of kids these days are being raised in a barn. Not a fan.
This is a luxury barn! You can't even sincerely it a "barn" without a bunch of qualifiers.
@@raymondergarcia You're right, you can't sincerely call it a barn. They look more like a warehouse. Real old fashion barns look much nicer. Maybe the owner has a legitimate need for that volume.
million plus dollar barn, sounds rough poor things
Neither am I, it's ugly as shit, looks like a storefront.
@@maslowpavlov right? Raised like animals with that 50k siding job.
Bullshit / you will have to paint it or replace it - what the f ever lol
I hate it b
Cardboard generic houses for cardboard generic people.. My cypress and cedar is 50 years old and still looks new..🐎💩🥃😎👌
Prove that yours is better
Father time's already proven it..
Show me your diamond CRAP after 50 years, Sonny boy..🐎💩😎👌
Ya’ll aren’t the clients 😁.
@@MichaelJ674
Annnddd.. your point is...🐎💩😎👌
Noticeably absent….. cost?
How does it price point with pre-finished SmartSide?
diamond coat sounds to me like liquid glass that you can make at home with the right kitty litter and some water...
Prove it
@@daveklein2826 how about you elaborate on your experience with the product? How many installs have you done? Any issues? You've had nothing but perfect results it sounds like.
HEY WOULD YOU CONSIDER DOING A HOME REMODEL FOR A GUY LIKE ME
AND DO AN EPISODE
GOT A LOT OF WORK THAT CAN BE DONE AND I WOULD LOVE FOR YOU GUYS TO CONSIDER
THEN RECENTLY TRYING TO REMODEL IT ON A DIME STORE SHELF BUDGET
HOPE YOU CONSIDER
THANKS HAVE A GREAT DAY
Do you have the money for it?
@@daveklein2826 Obviously not, which is why he mentioned "dime store shelf budget". Sounds more like a charity case to me.
Why are you yelling @advocate? 😂😂😂
@@MichaelJ674 I almost asked the same thing, but I also realized that he's probably so unaware of online etiquette that he wouldn't understand the question.