Thank you for the detailed guide! 1. I observed the L1, L2, Neutral, and Earth connections. What if your house runs on a three phase system 100 amps with neutral and earth? 2. In case one phase fails, does the home power panel take over?
Missing some straps on all the Romax coming off the panel. I’ve been out of the game for a while, but I believe it’s still max 12 inch strapping from the panel.
Hi there, Almost everything in my house is electric, pellet stoves (primary heat source), Old school gray box electric heaters that currently only run occasionally due to cost(assume 240V), oven/range (240V), water heater (240V), Dryer (240V). I dont want to choose only specific circuits, i want it all as we'd like to go off grid. Can I use the HPP to just run directly into my 200A home supply and run everything? My meter is not on the 200 A panel in my house. Its out on the pole. I'd also like the ability to be able to plug in a generator for those times when solar isn't producing or grid down etc, could I run a 30 or 50 A plug into just one of the 3800's and would it bridge the charging? The panel is 200 A but I highly doubt if we ever get anywhere near that. We'd have to be running all of our 240V appliances simultaneously to get there which is highly unlikely. Also will this system continue to operate without wifi? Is there anyway to make adjustments without using the app?
Can someone tell me if these panel are UL listed? I have electricians here and they are saying they can’t pass permit inspection unless the smart panel itself is UL listed.
I’m confused about the L1,L2 current transformers and the direction the source arrow should face: at 6:24 you say the arrow should point up to the meter, but then at 6:51 you say the arrow should be pointing down toward the panel. Can you confirm?
The arrow on the current transformer should be point DOWN toward where the main bus bars connect to the circuit breakers, NOT up toward the direction of the meter.
@@wbarkwell You are measuring the current drawn from the meter down through the main bus bars to supply all the loads in the home. The HPP manual says "orient the CTs with the arrows pointing toward the source." But the pictures unmistakably show the arrows pointing DOWNWARD toward the direction of the bottom of the main panel toward where all the circuit breakers are. There's another UA-camr's video (Benjamin Sahlstrom) in which he had them pointed upward toward the meter and he said it works fine for him. I think it works OK for him despite pointing in the wrong direction is that the HPP's algorithm just takes the absolute value of the measured currents and ignores the flow direction.
The HPP calls for a minimum of 6 AWG wire size for 50A max load if 2 F3800s are used, or 10 AWG minimum wire size for 25A max load on the backup load side of sub panel if 1 F3800 is used.
Please dumb this down for me … in this case if I were installing a new subpanel and I had ONE F3800 (this would mean 25 amp MAX) … would I still use a 100 amp panel ?
@@wbarkwell I've edited what I said above for clarification. It's not about restricting what Amp size sub panel you can install or how much backup load you want to put on that sub panel, it's about how much load 1 F3800 or 2 F3800s can deliver so that you should size the MINIMUM wiring gauge of the power line that connects to the backup load side that feeds your subpanel accordingly. You shouldn't use smaller size wires than specified above on the power lines that feed into your subpanel so that they can handle the max current load that either 1 F3800 or 2 F3800 can deliver. If your sub panel and home backup loads are bigger sizes and they end up drawing more than what 1 or 2 F3800s can deliver to the backup load side, then the F3800 will just shut down, that's all. But the minimum wiring sizes of both the grid side and the backup load side must be observed. For 2 F3800s, the grid side wire must be 3 AWG and for 1 F3800, the grid side wire must be 6 AWG minimum for L1, L2 and Neutral lines.
Whats the biggest size wire that the lugs in the home power panel will take?
Thank you for the detailed guide!
1. I observed the L1, L2, Neutral, and Earth connections.
What if your house runs on a three phase system 100 amps with neutral and earth?
2. In case one phase fails, does the home power panel take over?
Missing some straps on all the Romax coming off the panel. I’ve been out of the game for a while, but I believe it’s still max 12 inch strapping from the panel.
i agree and i also didnt see any glue for the PVC
Hi there,
Almost everything in my house is electric, pellet stoves (primary heat source), Old school gray box electric heaters that currently only run occasionally due to cost(assume 240V), oven/range (240V), water heater (240V), Dryer (240V).
I dont want to choose only specific circuits, i want it all as we'd like to go off grid. Can I use the HPP to just run directly into my 200A home supply and run everything?
My meter is not on the 200 A panel in my house. Its out on the pole.
I'd also like the ability to be able to plug in a generator for those times when solar isn't producing or grid down etc, could I run a 30 or 50 A plug into just one of the 3800's and would it bridge the charging?
The panel is 200 A but I highly doubt if we ever get anywhere near that. We'd have to be running all of our 240V appliances simultaneously to get there which is highly unlikely.
Also will this system continue to operate without wifi? Is there anyway to make adjustments without using the app?
I agree with the CT confusion. The video edits got the installation out of order and does state the arrow facing different directions on L1 & L2.
Can someone tell me if these panel are UL listed? I have electricians here and they are saying they can’t pass permit inspection unless the smart panel itself is UL listed.
Did you ever get an answer? I am running into the same problem
I’m confused about the L1,L2 current transformers and the direction the source arrow should face: at 6:24 you say the arrow should point up to the meter, but then at 6:51 you say the arrow should be pointing down toward the panel. Can you confirm?
The arrow on the current transformer should be point DOWN toward where the main bus bars connect to the circuit breakers, NOT up toward the direction of the meter.
So to be clear, which is the SOURCE for these 2 CTs - the meter or the main buss bar ?
@@wbarkwell You are measuring the current drawn from the meter down through the main bus bars to supply all the loads in the home. The HPP manual says "orient the CTs with the arrows pointing toward the source." But the pictures unmistakably show the arrows pointing DOWNWARD toward the direction of the bottom of the main panel toward where all the circuit breakers are. There's another UA-camr's video (Benjamin Sahlstrom) in which he had them pointed upward toward the meter and he said it works fine for him. I think it works OK for him despite pointing in the wrong direction is that the HPP's algorithm just takes the absolute value of the measured currents and ignores the flow direction.
I'm a bit triggerd by how messy that cable is to the F3800. Just untwist it a bit, man!
Can you feed a 200 amp subpanel?
The HPP calls for a minimum of 6 AWG wire size for 50A max load if 2 F3800s are used, or 10 AWG minimum wire size for 25A max load on the backup load side of sub panel if 1 F3800 is used.
Please dumb this down for me … in this case if I were installing a new subpanel and I had ONE F3800 (this would mean 25 amp MAX) … would I still use a 100 amp panel ?
@@wbarkwell I've edited what I said above for clarification. It's not about restricting what Amp size sub panel you can install or how much backup load you want to put on that sub panel, it's about how much load 1 F3800 or 2 F3800s can deliver so that you should size the MINIMUM wiring gauge of the power line that connects to the backup load side that feeds your subpanel accordingly. You shouldn't use smaller size wires than specified above on the power lines that feed into your subpanel so that they can handle the max current load that either 1 F3800 or 2 F3800 can deliver. If your sub panel and home backup loads are bigger sizes and they end up drawing more than what 1 or 2 F3800s can deliver to the backup load side, then the F3800 will just shut down, that's all. But the minimum wiring sizes of both the grid side and the backup load side must be observed. For 2 F3800s, the grid side wire must be 3 AWG and for 1 F3800, the grid side wire must be 6 AWG minimum for L1, L2 and Neutral lines.
What's the point of editing in the sideways view in the monolog? It's really distracting