1000mm/s: RELAXED TESTING on Voron Ferrari!
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- I started with a V0.0 Kit from Aliexpress (now it's 0.1, which is better in any respect)*:
Formbot Voron V0.1 Kit (AliExpress) bit.ly/39kfWdC
LDO Voron V0.1 KIT (Caribou3D) bit.ly/3KBxqzL
Recommended Kits for bigger DIY printers:
Voron 2.4 Kit (AliExpress) kit bit.ly/3PklmWE
Voron Trident Kit (AliExpress) bit.ly/3yxMaNe
STL files, instructions and BOM on the recent upgrades:
247printing.gu...
Support my work at Patreon:
/ 247printing
My Instagram and Twitter - more about my doings and behind the scenes:
Instagram: / 247printing
Twitter: / 247_printing
Watch the print at 1100mm/s:
• Shorts
💚Pizza, Beer and Coffee helps me going on💚
paypal.me/247p...
💚Thanks to all who support/ed my work💚
---------------Settings:
Filament: ESUN ABS+ - a great choice filament for strong parts and easy printing
amzn.to/3Bi0x7k
T_Hotend = 290C
T_Bed = 90C
Requested Speed: 1000mm/s
Acceleration: 35.000 mm/s²
square_corner_velocity: 15mm/s
Nozzle: 0.4mm
Layer Height: 0.1mm
Line width: 0.4mm
Volumetric flow: 40mm³/s
Lengths of straights: 65mm
Lengths of printing @ REAL 1000mm/s: 35mm
Xxxx ALL DESIGNS AVAILABLE SOON xxxX
@ Voron Users / Thingiverse
******UPGRADES STAGE 1 on my Voron V0 - VIDEO DEEP DIVES and ANALYSES incoming:
For years now, I use BigTreeTech/BIQU products - very much recommended:
(I was sponsored with an Octopus Board V1.1, TMC2209, 70W Heater and PT1000 thermistor)
Get the Octopus Board here:
bit.ly/31kKCrj
-MOTION (Part 1: Video Deep Dive incoming)
Nema14 spec Voron V0.1 @1.7A (OMC 14HS20-1504S)
amzn.to/3kBO5tm
F623 bearings instead of toothed idlers
amzn.to/2UktSgZ
WD40 specialist dry lubricant for rails (PTFE)
amzn.to/3ziGaF4
Gates-LL-2GT 6mm belts
amzn.to/3kCaAht
- EXTRUSION: (Part 2: Video Deep Dive)
Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum (5% off!): www.sliceengin...?p=rkjO5IsbY
VolcoMosq Block (+9mm melt): • How did I end up with ...
E3D Hemera (Bowden config)
amzn.to/3zdvAzk
Capricorn Bowden Tube
amzn.to/3kBrgWE
50W heater (24V)
amzn.to/2UmOIwa
PT1000 temp sensor
amzn.to/3ivfdY2
Boron Nitride Paste @ heater, thermistor and heat break
amzn.to/3kvPem6
- COOLING (Part 3: Video Deep Dive)
4010 blower fans (24V), updated toolhead
amzn.to/3irazKT
optimized air ducts for part cooling with aluminium tape insulation
amzn.to/3zhbuEs
External Static Cooling: 4x4020 fans (24V)
amzn.to/3zcap0D
4x40mm heatsink at AB stepper motors
amzn.to/3irvLAh
2x 4020 / or 4010 fans (5V) at heat sinks (stepper motors)
amzn.to/3wOmfMJ
25mm axial fan (5V) for stepper drivers
amzn.to/3eDf4AW
- Software / Firmware / Controllers (Part 4: Video Deep Dive):
Klipper
www.klipper3d....
Raspberry Pi Zero W (Mainsail)
amzn.to/3xR9l21
Raspberry Pi 3B (Input Shaping and Octoprint)
amzn.to/2UwIMAu
Alternative: Raspberry Pi4:
amzn.to/3kBt4io
Simplify 3D: multi processes used
www.simplify3d...
-------------------------------------------------------
My modest video gear*:
iPhone 11 Pro: amzn.to/2VZYswJ
Smartphone video rig: amzn.to/3iriub5
GoPro Hero 9: amzn.to/2UZI9Q5
FLIR ONE PRO: amzn.to/2UWAe67
Similar to the soft boxes I use: amzn.to/3xRes2d
Similar to the tripod I use: amzn.to/2V1I6mw
*Amazon links are affiliate links at no extra costs for you!
#JoinTheSpeed
#247printing
#volcomosq
#SpeedBoatRace
All details in the video description👍
Watch THE FULL PRINT of this here:
ua-cam.com/video/aehCGalz4ms/v-deo.html
what heater did you use for the mosquito magnum
@@brimful-cookie5947 it’s a 50W heater cartridge here, but I am considering a more powerful one because of the external cooling
@@247printing thanks.
@@247printing i love your videos and im building a voron because of you.
@@brimful-cookie5947 wow thank you - gives me honest goosebumps reading that! You won’t regret the choice - I had so much fun and so many learnings with the Voron!
This is a good illustration of how the client imagines the 3D printing process.
Because it’s a so called „rapid“ prototyping process 😬
@@247printing its True tho even ať 25mm/s its still way faster than making a form
@@DreainCZE absolutely! And for single rapid prototyping parts on design iterations it totally makes sense to have a fast printer
That's true!!! Jajaja
i expect this 5 kilo print in like half an hour
How to avoid warping: print the whole part before the bottom layer gets cold.
Indeed! Speed helps against warping - don’t give a chance to internal stresses of the part 😬 - print at „warping speed“😂
@@247printing I know, that's the whole point of the comment. It's funny because it's true.
@@alphastratus6623 we agree! Thanks for commenting !
How about "super glue." Works for me. Print on glass so you can scrape it off but glue your part down in about 4 to 6 places. It's worth it.
@@DardanelleNews I stopped using adhesive stuff since I use structured or PEI coated spring steel on magnets. But for glas it’s perfect indeed! 3Dlac was my go to here - perfect adhesion, you don’t need much and you can remove it with water 👍
Sir, you should't feed your printer meth.
Straight up tweeking on the small coverage.
you need an aerodynamic nozzle, the wind drives strongly and creates resistance)))
Just print in full vaccum...
@@Wingnut353 that would suck for materials that need to be in a heated chamber
@@louiscrespo1280 I think opposite. Without air, no convection for heat loss from part. Flip side -- no cooling at all...
@@traviswatson6527 Water cooling
@@L3X369
I wonder what materials would respond well to water sprayers for print cooling.
Vector: i have the fastest 3D printer, with odrive bldc motors
This guy: hold my klipper firmware
Thanks for this comment! Would you like to tell me who Vector is? Edit: Found him - I like this channel 😍
@@Lucas_sGarage I check it thanks a lot mate!
You rang?
How to put 10 years of wear on your printer in 1 min lol. But seriously, this is awesome!
Thanks man! The wear isn’t dramatic - I used the Voron Zero for 3 months now on the limit and it’s still in very good condition 😊
Why would there be any wear ? I mean, linear guides and belts can handle way more then this :) hihihi nice one anyway.
The problem with high speed is the stiffness of the structure and the cinematic control (resonance, etc).
Have you notice any strange behavior at these speeds ?
Have you an example of the surface quality you manage to get at those speeds, acc and jerk parameters ? :)
@@foufou81 I’ll upload a full print and showcase at those parameters this weekend - if I am lucky this could be the 1000subs @ 1000mm/s special print 😍
@@247printing this is awesome, guess I'll be your 981st subscriber then
@@DeltaCodex very very cool, thank you!
This reminds me of a soldering integrity lesson I once taught my employees a while back. Excellent job on your soldering integrity!
An awesome anecdote, I really enjoyed it! Thanks for that! Proper wiring, soldering and crimping is absolute key for reliability - I also had to learn it the hard way! Lots of failures!
How awkward would it have been if it snapped off and broke one of their noses? not going to lie if my boss whipped something heavy like that past my face it would end up around his neck.
@@labemolon5739 "But you wouldn’t work for me without a psych evaluation and background check and that type of behavior would have been identified in the background check by an ex or a relative."
Now contrast that with what you said earlier.
"I asked my employees to gather round a close circle. I then grabbed some wires and started spinning the sensor around fast enough to hear it whipping by and spun it in front of all their faces and yelled"
And...
"I anticipated it to break. Same belief as in “don’t pull out a gun unless you intend to shoot it”."
It is clearly obvious that despite your loyalty to your staff you still have no problem putting them into degrading situations as if you have somehow gained (or purchased) the right to put another person in that situation...I can say for sure is that it wouldn't matter if you "paid my mortgage" or let me smoke pot during my break, I would not let you do that to me because I have some pride. If you think it's acceptable to abuse your power like that then don't be surprised if someone abuses you back in another way. It's common sense.
@@ChimpyChamp just enjoy 3d printing 👍🏻
Imagine what huge effect such approach would have in schools!!! If teacher gets a whip, and start asking question, using the whip as response to wrong answers!
Waaaait a minute...
We need this to run vase mode printings just going in circles at max speed.
Would be interesting to see, I’ll try it out, but shouldn’t be harder then this print 😊
Those stepper motors must have some high accuracy!
how did you manage to increase the print speed while maintaining the quality??
IDDQD
Most insane thing I've seen in years. Kudo's man!
Oh thanks mate! That’s really nice to hear… there is a lot more to come!
You might consider upgrading those belts with metal guides and ball bearings before they explode, but amazing anyway. Very cool.
Thanks a lot man!
Bronze and black looks great
Holy mother of God! That's fast💯💪😆I luv it!
Talk about Breaking Wind!!!😳 I was expecting a Sonic Boom to happen at ANY MOMENT!!!💥💥💥
This would be so awesome... 343200 mm/s :D
Let's set a new goal! The speed of light! It looks like is close to!
Nice job!
Thanks a lot :) I try to hit it :D
It took me a while to figure out, that this is not sped up....
Good job - i am starting to get a bit jealous.
Nice! I'm making progress on my inkjet dc encoder motor 3dp. It's fast, but loud when converting step/dir to the encoder/pid because it needs to brake to avoid overshoot every tick.
Do you use encoders? Geared down? How do you avoid noisy braking?
You can see the videos on my channel.
I’ll have a look, sounds very interesting! I am using Nema14 motors on tmc2209 stepper drivers here - really not fancy in comparison to what you are on to!
this scares me, but it's amazing
There must be an infill process with less 'jerk' and unnecessary acceleration, right? Elegant path handling seems like a must at these speeds. I've never written my own slicer, so...
To be fair, I don't think any of the current popular slicing programs are designed to handle anything like those speeds. Infill is typically designed for structural integrity first and foremost, rather than compensating for a print head zipping around like a squirrel on meth. I'd expect once machines running at these speeds become more common, we'll see something purpose built to accommodate them.
Right? Like some sorta slicing process that creates a more elongated and stretched gyroid fill. Little less jerky, still plenty durable.
Any chance you can just drop a BOM so I can go buy exactly everything? Lol! I want it now!
Coming soon! Still testing the designs and components. But you can start building your Voron Zero at vorondesign.com
Does this affect print quality?
What about the lifespan of the printer?
Awesome video
Print quality: Yes, definitely! Please consider this as a feasibility study :) Lifespan: The printer is 3.5months old. I am not able to judge the lifespan yet, but so far the wear in relation to the torturing is negligible!
200,000 units are ready, with a million more well on the way
Not everyone gets Clone Wars references :-)
Epoxy cement base and fill inside of entire frame for greatly improved vibration dampening
Nice idea, I’ll think about that!
Damping, not “dampening”
@@landsurfmarin Autocorrect lol
man, i really wish these vibrations were slightly, unpleasantly wet
One step closer to the star trek replicator - Looks absolutely insane 🤪👏 .... but I wonder what the surface quality will be like!?
Exactly this! I hope we’ll see the Replicator in our life time! I’ll upload a full print video with quality check in the weekend 😊
I can’t even imagine what went Into making this thing print this fast. Your settings must be a pain to trouble shoot. What are are you printing with and how hot? Not even gonna try this with my printers
It was a lot of fun while learning and yeah… spent lot of time in designing/testing and parameter variation for the settings ☺️ it’s ABS+ at 300C/105C - more details in the description 👍 thanks a lot for commenting 😍
at the final part it sounded like bossa nova.. I like it!
*relaxed printing*
printer: I AM SPEED
This is so unreal..!! Great job man 🤗
Thanks man!
When the slicing software has to correct for Gforce 😂.
True! Thanks to resonance calibration on the firmware!
Holy mother of speed... its on speed for real!!
Sweet momma! Hey, do you still have to slow way down on the 1st layer?
😬 yes I do, when going fast I am between 20-50% of the default printing speed - it was 250mm/s here. Maybe I upload the full print of this so you can see all layers.
@@247printing Yes please upload the full print man :)
@@OZtwo it’s coming, my V0 is disassembled atm and a want to do a #speedboatrace benchy first - this is going to be „quite“ fast 😬
Hit the palm of your hand in the water. Even though the filament is already liquid, there comes a time when it meets resistance like your hand hitting the water. how did you solve this? I tried to print at high speeds but there comes a time the nozzle do not work. Greetings from Brazil.
Greetings to Brazil! This is a very complex topic and I get your point… What makes a difference is a longer melting zone like a mosquito magnum with a volcano style block (see Nitrams volcomosq), higher temperatures than usual (280C to 320C) and material choices (Esun ABS+ is very good for these speeds). Concerning fluid dynamics I can’t really explain if there is an impact-like analogy like you stated. I assume speeds (Pressure Advance moves or Retracts) are not comparable here. Maybe Nitram joins this conversation - I ask him!
I wonder what this printer would look like if you did something in vase mode?
Have a look on my 1100mm/s video - there I did a try on vase mode 😬
That's crazy insane!!!
I thank you, Nathan!
wow... great video! what motors and firmware are you using?? and belt is gt2?
Please have a look at the description 😊
¡Qué bestia! Muy buena máquina, ¿cómo calibras todo para llegar a esa velocidad?
¡Muchas gracias! Lo explicaré pronto en una serie de videos, pero será en inglés.
Okay but can I get a walkthrough? I have a printer, but other than just telling it to go faster (and risk the print failing) I dont know what to do. Everything is evolving so fast. I love it but its hard to keep up for a hobby I can sometimes get to after work.
Stay tuned! I am intensively working on a series „Deep Dive to Speedprinting“: Motion, Extrusion, Cooling and Software (Firmware/Slicer) - that’s going to be huge and still a lot to do, but it’s coming for sure ☺️
Can you share with me the printer.cfg please? I am interested what setting you are using for motor x and y motors. When I am trying to go over 300mm/s with 10K accel on my voron vo, i have a big layer shift. I am using LDO kit with LDO motors.
Hey Anton, unfortunately there is or could be a lot more involved than my printer.cfg. You can have it for sure, but printers are not comparable and maybe it’s a better to chat in the speedboatrace discord about this 👍
omg, this is insane.... well done!
Thanks Daniel 🤩
amazing, can this be one on PLA though and is it quiet, like around 50db? thanks!
Thank you! Printing PLA at that speed in combination with quiet operation is challenging as PLA needs a lot of cooling 😢
1000mm/s sounds nice but will never get reached if your acc isnt high enough...so with whick ACC you print?
Correct! Acceleration is 35K mm/s^2 - I did the math in the description and it’s not accelerating from Zero all the time. Plenty of 1000mm/s moves 😊
I read a comment where someone said the thing should become aerodynamic because it's moving too fast.
To one up that, what if it was in a vacuum chamber?
I am not really sure it aerodynamics have an effect here. From what I know you have to go speeds at around 100-120km/h to have negative effects from air drag. But I am no expert :)
Printer Goes BRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
How hot were the steppers after it was done?
They are actively cooled here (two 4010 fans at 5V) - they stay quite cool (40-50C) at 1.7A
Wondering about the print quality. Can you show any final print ?
The model I was printing was quite good, I am planning to do another water tight ducky pool at this speed like the last one 😊
Jesus, I can see the belts flexing on the longer bits on the sides. Is there some kind of strengthened belt that resists that kind of flexing at super high back-and-forth speed stuff? Might be able to push it farther without issues if so.
Thanks I’ll look at that!
What kind of belts are you using that can handle that kind of inertial forces?
You find a link to the gates belts in the video description ☺️ no problem so far as the motion system is kind of light weight
С АБС не возникает проблем на высоких скоростях? У ПЛА на 150 мм/с и выше уже появляются значительные дефекты (местные разрывы, общая шероховатость)
What temp do you have the hot end? Must be melting it so fast
It's at 290C, with the custom heater block (volcomosq by Nitram) no problem with fast melting :) More details in the description :)
Can you recommend the best available kit for voron 0 build?
I ordered the Kit from Formbot (AliExpress) and it was ok, but I had to change some stuff to be reliable. LDO recently started to offer kits and they seem to be high quality. I’d go for LDO at the moment!
@@247printing thanks for the reply! Love your channel!
@@Liris777 I love it to be in contact with you guys! Thanks a lot that you are here!
@@247printing checked out LDO, only US delivery available... so sad, I am watching you from the Kazakhstan 🇰🇿:)
Greetings to Kazakhstan! At least there are vendors in Europe who resell their kits, maybe you’ll find one for your area? Or you could go for a AliExpress kit - it’s ok to start with that and it’s way cheaper.
You should turn your slicer to "vase mode" if it's 1 wall build (preventing stop, direction change and may be micro nozzle motion on each layers)
Yeah, I tried two walls for that video. Full print of that - Vase Mode part of That - This evening right here!
@@247printing you can still use vase mode with parts that have thick walls. There is a video of a guy explaining it.
The key is you have to take into account the thickness of the nossle and "draw" the route almost complete with a cut-in of just 2 thicknesses (one inbound, one outbound) so you go to the interior perimeter, then modify the interior perimeter to do several trips just near the outer wall to the thickness of the nossle.
It creates a very stiff print and is going to be fast on this printer.
@@eddypdeb the limiting factor on thick walls printed on Vase Mode is the throughput of the extrusion system at that speed. With my high flow config (mosquito magnum with long heater block) I am quite on the limit doing 0.1mm layer height, 0.4mm single wall at 1000mm/s. I recently uploaded a Vase Mode preview on this. From calculation it would be possible to do a 0.8mm thick wall at 500mm/s. Which still would be fast, but not 4 digits fast 😊
WHAT IS THIS MADNESS
no need for part cooling fan! 😁
how much is this 3D printer? how can you handle vibration at this fast speed ?
It can be built between 400-600€! Vibration is a topic as it’s light weight, but I have some upgrades to overcome those problems.
Wooo this is nice! Great job!
Thank you!
Please make a speed benchy on this machine.
Incoming… will be really fast!
Do this please I just subbed 👍👌
I plan to publish the video on sunday 😬 it will be a loud print, it will be quite ugly and it will be the fastest on record 🙊 Also working on the fastest quality benchy on this machine - definitely clearly below 10min 😬
@@247printing looking forward to watching it !
So looking forward to this! Subbed...
wow insane speed :) but how long the stepper drivers are gonna last? and the motor? thats interresting!:) you need to cool down the motor with liquid azot :)
NITROGEN, comrad. liquid nitrogen.
@@СтарикОрденоносец :)
@@СтарикОрденоносец really interresting :) the board can be cooldown like a custom pcb layout with cooling channels for the stepper drivers :)
Good question! There is no experience here concerning life time of drivers/motors (Printer is running for 3,5 months now). Motors/Drivers are actively cooled, running at 40-50C.
Those wires look like me on a floaty while my dads driving the boat
Initially that was a work in progress video for the speedboat community - cable sleeves are a must here. But I like the picture a lot you described 😂
what about making a full concentric infill ?! It will have less vibrations
Good idea, I’ll try out!
@@247printing or set the parameter of layers of side walls up until it's complete made out of side walls.
@@alphastratus6623 also a possibility! I have to admit: I liked the effect of the toolhead cornering out to the long y straights when printing the solid infills for the first two layers - but I’ll try out those suggestions for the full print video
Deine Videos laufen bei mir immer doppelt so schnell ab XD
Das kenne ich - beim bearbeiten komme ich kaum mit!
I wanna see this thing in vase mode! Incredible!
Thanks mate! I did some testing on printing 1100mm/s on vase mode - have a look at the Shorts video I uploaded! There is going to be uploaded a 1000mm/s full print (vase mode included!) this weekend 😬
I always seriously wonder, how the layers are able to effectively bond together at that speed. Yes it builds fast, but hows the layer adhesion, no issues ?
There is not much of a difference to regular printing except that you have to melt the plastic fast enough 😊 That’s why this was only possible with the volcomosq block (longer meltzone) on the mosquito and higher temperatures on ABS then at normal printing (290C)
well once the filament is in position it got all the time it needs to bond, maybe it is getting an even better one due to the previous layer haven't been solidified that much yet
My theory has been, while the nozzle moves along it's path and puts down a layer, it basically transfers heat from the molten layer-and through it to the layer below and heats it back up to a (literally) degree, which helps bonding. And that process takes it's time. A high HE temp sure is needed for high speeds, but the material itself is far from reaching that, the short duration it passes the heater block. Imagine 4-6 large items on your buildplate, the following layer of part 1 will be cooled down significantly even at those speeds. Don't get me wrong, i love fast printing and think it's the only way to go, and want to custom build one myself. My thoughts just keep rambling if there are really no downsides that I'm overlooking. Plus, on all those high speed demos it's mostly demo items only, i'd like to see actual usable, strong production parts and small batch printing, that are generally usable quality and strength
You really don't understand the thermal properties of plastics.
I've certainly not studied the topic, but I'm building Injection moulds since +10yrs, so I'm not a complete beginner. Feel free to enlighten me
Is that real speed? That's really fast!
Yes, absolutely real and still not the limit - did successful movement tests up to 1450mm/s! Extrusion not successful yet at that speed!
@@247printing Wow! That's insane 👍👍👍
@@247printing Can i get this speed with 2 motors 17HS4401 on each axis?
@@dmitriykonopinskiy3793 I don’t know the specs of these motors tbh
Hi sir , is it original voron zero can go to that speed ?
Hey Sir! An original Voron needs some tuning and custom parts to achieve this - I’ll show soon! It’s always best to start with a default configuration before heavy tuning.
Imagine how fast vase mode would be
Edit: watched the whole print and it actually is in vase mode
You don’t have to imagine - you can watch it - it’s crazy! Please have a look at my other videos ☺️
Kann man dieses Hotend so fertig von Nitram kaufen?
So wie ich Nitram verstanden habe, will er ein paar (30Stk) komplette Hotends (Quality Mosquito Klon, Block und Socke) anbieten. Am besten mal kontaktieren und vormerken - sein Channel ist verlinkt.
In late August hopefully....
Love the speed but i Wonder what the precision on the part is. I highly doubt that the holes in prints like this Will be the correct size
I agree, but „requested speed“ is normally not reached when printing curves or small holes. That’s the usual slicing/firmware parameter game between acceleration / jerk / junction deviation / square corner velocity. For straights or travel moves these speeds make sense and can be reached.
Is it possible to print clean supports with such a speed?
if you try to put it in a vacuum chamber to reduce friction with the air, and use mineral oil to cool the hotend and the motherboard, but I have no idea how to cool the part itself
Oh man, I love thinking about topics like these! Thanks for inspiring!
Air friction is not an issue.
@@truantray oks sorry :-/
these cheap sliders are working flat , but rotate at 90 degres and they start to jam , except they are not cheap ?
Hey, sorry, I don't understand the question to be honest 😅
@@247printing ball screw sliders works well when they are horizontal ( screws vertical ) but they jam if you rotate them
@@Tupeutla Where do you see ball screw sliders here? Aren’t these ultra expensive (if good class) mainly meant for rather slow movements?
@@247printing soory ball sliders , not ball screw ( who are actuators ) . 2 mouted verticaly with 10 screws for Y , one mounted horizontally for X .
I have tried some and when they are not horizontal , the balls are jamming inside ( depend quality ) seems they are supposed to work flat only
I guess you have really bad ones then - mine were cheap ftt er on China but they move perfectly - orientation should not matter.
Great printing speed! I was always wondering 2 things when it comes to printing fast:
1)is ABS better than PLA when it comes to speed?
2)is 0.4 nozzle restrictive when it comes to speed?
1) Many speedy guys switched to ABS+, because it’s easier to cool and the flow seems to be a bit better - even the color matters!
2) In some ways yes, because you have higher back pressure. It’s a complex topic as you need even more flow to do wider perimeters (with a bigger nozzle), but there is always the possibility to play with narrow perimeters (0.4 for example) on bigger nozzles than 0.4mm.
@@247printing can you achieve better sprint with bigger than 0.4 nozzle? Will you give recommendation on color/brand suitable for speedprinting? Thank you!
@@dragonfist Try ESUN abs+ black - works very good. Lots of other stuff is tested in speed printing, but atm I stick to this in black or brown 😬 nozzle: I tested a 0.5 on the dragon and there was no benefit. With the Volcomosq there may be a difference to check out.
how is the pla extruding fast enough to print that?
How do you print without stoping the nozzel? Like in spiral
i just wonder how long those steppermotors and the belt will handle that speed ^^
That's something time will show! Up today - 3 months of excessive use - no signs of wear so far! Motors are actively cooled.
С такой скоростью даже обдув не нужен - потоком от осей отлично охладит :)
Omg it's making such a funny noise. Is it using stepper motors?
Do you use input shaper?
The little guy really sounds funny - a good fit to the size 😊 yes I use input shaper, without it would not be possible
@@247printing oh I like Input shaper but it messed with my pritns sometimes. Some shapes and some holes get printed wrong for me. The smoothing is the issue here. Maybe I could tune it further but since my printer is constantly changing I just leave it off.
For example my dimensions would be randomly off. My y axis was 0.2mm smaller and my X was 0.1mm bigger on a print tbh. I noticed it after some prints weren't fitting to each other. Strangely my print in place tolerances remained the same
@@ameliabuns4058 This sounds really weird - is this even on low speeds/accelerations? Maybe something went wrong while you did the shaping procedure. Never had the problems you mentioned on my Klipper printer!
@@247printing it was at high Accels. I didn't try low Accels back then. Since then I've converted my printer to a tool changer. I gotta configure it on this printer again
@@ameliabuns4058 just had a look at your channel and some videos - your toolchanger is a cool project and your dedication is really amazing! Keep on going! I forget to answer: yeah the V0 in this video is on steppers :)
Wow, that's pretty impressive.
You are impressive!
I'm building a 2m printer and I've got to be able to hit these speeds as a matter of practicality. Nice to know it's an achievable objective.
@@Unmannedair ok. That’s impressive! You should have enough room to accelerate to this speed and more. I bet you’ll do good motor choices and opt for 48V - no problem to reach 1200-1500mm/s!
@@247printing yeah if the heater can keep up with it. Problem is it's only easy to hit those speeds in a straight run on a straight part, if you're trying to do detail on that kind of scale there's massive acceleration problems. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to create some custom slicer code in order to deal with some of those issues. I was also thinking about shooting for 72 volts because it's an industrial standard and it's easy to find power supplies for that voltage. I'm definitely going to need heat sinks on my stepper motors, LOL
There are viable options to achieve the speed/acceleration, extrusion and the cooling. Weight is a topic on your big printer - gantry has to be designed as light weight as possible. And there is the motor topic. Big servos could be a choice for you. Concerning extrusion, a Mosquito Magnum Plus would be up to the heating (up to 100W) and extrusion rates you need for high speeds. The cooling should not be a problem on a printer aimed at big size prints! What are your plans on the project ? I am really interested!
Wow! That is just crazy? Are you using s-curces on that thing?
Hmmm is this a Marlin thing? I am not deep into Marlin - used smoothieware for years and Klipper now.
bless the rounded corners
No problem to do square corners! I liked the effect of the tool head rushing out to the fast straights when doing solid infills :)
@@247printing pretty spectacular! what acceleration values do you achieve?
How high is your flow rate on this print ??
It’s 40mm^3/s continuous
This is amazing. How does this even work?
Extremely buff hamsters on wheels.
It's all about the volume of liquid plastic in the hot end and the flow rate possible.
Absolute insanity in the best possible way! The voron people have designed a great platform and your build is frickin awesome, kudos!
Edit: I looked to see if you have anything more in depth about it but mostly only found ~ 30s - 2m videos. If you plan to put out more about it I'd gladly sub the channel.
Thanks Robert! Yeah I am working hard on a deep dive series concerning speed printing - I underestimated the efforts and time doing these, but those videos will be done and uploaded - just a matter of time! Please have a look at the description.
will it shred?
Hmmmm….. Don’t get it 😅
So relaxed!
Hi, nutzt du die Aluminium oder die Kupferversion von dem Block?
Hi! Die Kupferversionen gibt es erst mit der aktuellen Bestellung von Nitram - ca 3-4 Wochen, dann kann ich diese testen. Aktuell Aluminium
@@247printing Alles klar, bin noch am überlegen welche ich wohl nehmen soll
Mich würde primär das Gewicht stören von der Kupfer-Variante. Dafür ist die thermische Masse höher und der Einfluss vom Partcooling auf die Temperatur ist geringer. Ein für und wieder.
@@247printing Genau deswegen bin ich auch noch am überlegen. Ich danke dir für die schnellen Antworten :) ABO ist da!
Allerbesten Dank, Deep Dives genau zu solchen Themen folgen - du wirst es nicht bereuen 😊
How much was the total build cost?
Waouh ! Impressionnant !
how much it cost to build one that can print like that?
Depends on your choices, but you can build it for 400-600€
whats temperature settings are you using?
Please have a quick look at the video description- all details are there ☺️
@@247printing thank you, what is with quality with so high speed?
It’s better than you’d expect, but surely not 100% - I‘d call it “functionally usable” and not ugly ☺️
WIe viel hat der Drucker gekostet?
Dürfte mit mods und dem hemera irgendwo bei noch unter 600€ liegen wie er da steht. Hatte aber als Basis ein günstiges Kit von Formbot aus China.
I don't know why but I can't stop laughing ahaha love it
Here I am thinking I'm pushing my printer at 60 mm second lol
I hope the manufacturers are ready for the speed revolution - not too mach to do for them!
if the print is 100x100mm (probably less because buildplate is 120x120mm)
then the real speed u get is around 400 and peak 700mms (it print 1 and 3/4 of layer (or less) in 1 sec
still not bad :)
Either you or me did the calculations not correctly ☺️ please tell me how you calculated this?
@@247printing if u have 4 walls each 100mm and it will print each one in 1 sec = u get 100mms etc
So the real speed will be 100mms
U can set faster speed but the printer need to accelerate and decelerate often because its small so the real overall speed will be way slower
The same goes if u set retraction for each layer...printer needs to retracr then move so it add extra time for each layer etc
True 1000mms is ultra fast
Way to fast to print properly because plastic dont have time to cool down
You made some false assumptions here: The requested speed is reached by commanded acceleration/deceleration and the available lengths. Calculation for this is commonly done with the formulas stated in the “equations for motion”. The values for the parameters are: 35000mm/s^2 and around 65mm straight length for the change of velocity. Assuming a worst case: If the starting speed is 0mm/s (which is not the case most of the time) there are at least lengths (on each side) of around 35mm going at 1000mm/s. In reality (slow downs at round corners to around 400-500mm/s) it’s even more. As quite a few people get this wrong I’ll explain that in future video ☺️👍 Highschool physics we might have forgotten over time.
Don't have a 3d printer but this reminds me of the brother pr670 embroidery machine just a lot slower
god that's fast.. i can't imagine the state of the belts after some days of printing :O
They are performing really well!
Wait that's made to perform like that?!
when you let a kid drink coffee for the first time
Very nice analogy!
Hello!! What type of drivers and drivers voltage??
Heeeeellllooooo ☺️ SKR Mini V2 with integrated TMC2209 at 29V
@@247printing Thanks! High voltage is very important due to missing steps at high accel/jerk!! 29V-very good!! With 36V you can achieve even better results!!
>48V is incoming (TMC5160) - 29V is the limit atm :/
3D.-1D Printing. The dimension subtracted is time!
This!
But can it go faster?
Yes 🙊 Movement already was at 1400mm/s - but I was not able to extrude at that speed…yet…. And: it even looks slower as I have to lower the accelerations, because of torque/RPM ratio of the Nema14 motors. :/