Larry, thank you for all these great videos! I watch them for each step as I build my layout. For each step, I watch the video one time to grasp the scope of the work, then play it again while I'm actually doing the work! Pausing as needed. I just tonight installed my Bluepoint machine on my mock up exactly like you did it in the video and it works GREAT! I'm going to start adding them to my layout shortly. You are a wealth of knowledge and we are all so lucky that you are someone who is honestly enthusiastic about helping others! Thank you again!
So happy that I stumbled on your site. I had no idea these switch machines could be activated from opposite sides of a layout. I'm installing an island or rather a peninsula in the middle of a spare bedroom n scale layout that currently travels around the four walls. I always wanted to try these and now I have a reason to give them a try. Many Thanks!!! As a tip: I have installed all-thread into similar plastic (yellow) tubes by placing the all-thread in my drill chuck and holding the tube with a pair of pliers. Slowly letting the drill screw in the all-thread.
I can imagine all kinds of mishaps with that method but hey if it works go for it. Like my grandad used to say there’s more than one way to skin a cat! 👍
I realize that my comment is late based on the posting date of your video, however, I feel I can add some good information. Those flexible push rods have been used in the R/C airplane hobby for decades. They are inexpensive and very reliable. That might serve as an alternative source for purchase, as well as with the clevises and threaded rod ends. Additionally, for your double blue point idea, there are several different styles of push rods available based on the needed flexibility. All of them work very well and for railroad use would be fool proof. 😊
Fantastic milestone achievement Larry. Great video, I guess I never really considered mechanical point operation but I have to admit that the tactile experience of using this method certainty intrigues me. Great video look forward to the next one. Nick Australia
I like the system but one potential,problem might be folks rubbing up against the fasica and breaking the pushbuttons off. However the shelf I will be installing later with act as a standoff to help protect them as well as give operators a place to set drinks, throttles, paperwork, etc. Lot’s more to come!
Hi Larry. By the way the MRC Railpower 1300 Power in Conjunction with the 840's with the Kato 842 DC convertor connected to the controller, with the switches going to the DC and the wires from the convertor going to the AC. That's all it takes. I just wanted to let you know so if anyone else asks you the same question, you'll have the answer. I thank you again for looking up what you did in order to help me get where I wanted to be. Speak to you again soon. Mark
The nyrods, threaded rod and Clevis are sold in the RC airplane industry. They have been used sense the mid 70's for use as control rods for the control surfaces. I use to fly them back in those days. Just thought you should know that there is another source for these. Drilled blocks of wood and epoxy can be used as stabilizers for the nyrods.
Yes, I had my adventures with sailplanes a few years ago. I checked several of the manufacturers websites but couldn’t find these listed except on the Du-Bro site.
Congratulations on reaching 10,000 subscribers. I have seen other layouts before with those knobs sticking out the front panel and wondered what they were for. I am going to use servo motors mounted under the baseboard and controlled by Arduino boards. (Well that the plan.) Martin. (Thailand)
Yes, I think those will gain popularity in the future. If I was about 10 years or so younger I might get carried away with Arduinos, Raspberry Pi’s, etc, but right now I have enough on my plate just keeping up with the run of the mill stuff.
So far I've used only Fast Tracks "Bullfrog" turnout controller, and it's about the same idea. The biggest difference is that it's all laser cut and you have to put it together yourself, as well as the thing that you push and pull on. I'm happy with it, but some of the switches don't really inspire confidence, like the way it goes together means it doesn't feel like it's going to properly trigger the switch to change polarity. It's a more simple switch though, and not dpdt. I'm curious why they felt that was necessary. Maybe they just had a lot?
Great video Larry, I'm looking forward to seeing how you connect up a double through and throw point with the pushrod system that you are using on your next video. I was also wondering how close you can tie both points together with the one pushrod, thank you, Larry you're doing a grand job, regards Jon.
Larry, congratulations. I’ve enjoyed many of your videos and hope to apply many of your techniques. My question, can the bluepoint machine power indicator lights on the fascia? Would be great to see a how to video.
Hi Larry. I have Kato track along with DCC NCE Power Cab system. I'd like to know if I can use the Kato switch controllers with a separate power source. Could you suggest which one to use? Sorry for asking this question on this particular video...lol I'm just trying so hard to get the right answers to my questions so I can move along with putting my dream together for my granddaughter. I appreciate your input. I'm starting to put the dots together. I'm also trying not to be afraid to try stuff with the layout. Especially when it works out! Thanks again. Mark
Most accessory decoders designed for turnout control can use a separate power supply. This can either be a wall wart power supply or an accessory power bus using something like the Tam Valley Depot booster or a spare booster. I know that some of the Digitrax accessory decoders offer Kato control and there may be others, just need to do some research.
Sorry but I have no experience with those so don’t know how they are wired. Check out Allan Gartner’s website www.wiringfordcc.com I know he covers them.
Between the cost of the Blue Point Machine, the Rods, Nobs, Connectors, +. Were is the advantage Vs a Frog Machine since you need the DCC system anyway. I am not looking at the difference in usage, cost only.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you Larry for the fast reply! Enjoy your videos, keep up the good work! Btw I couldn’t get them to work with the springs installed, no matter if the hole was 3/8’s and enlarged side to side.
I got it from Tonys Trains. It was a bit hard to find at that time, I guess due to Covid production issues. RC airplane dealers may sell similar control parts but I couldn’t find them in stock either.
Hi Larry. If I went with the Wall wart, would I need 12V DC / 2amp or 24V 1,2Amp? Would I then set up a separate bus line for this? Thanks again for being so kind!! Mark
It depends on the device, it should tell you in the manual what use and how it works. Most if not all manufacturers provide manuals for download on their websites.
@@TheDCCGuy The ( 12V not to exceed 24W} LED Strip Lights / Cable Modem / Arduino PCB Design / External Hard Drive. That's basically all it says! Hope this gives you an idea if this will work or not. Thanks again for any imput that you can give me. It just lightens the load! Mark
Ok, I am not exactly sure what you’re asking me here. At one point I thought you were looking for an accessory decoder to run lights or turnout motors.Now it sounds like you just want to power them directly? I am lost.
@@TheDCCGuy I'm sorry that I might have misled you, but yes I'd like to power them directly. I like the idea of having all the controllers lined up in front of me. I don't know I might change my mind and go with the switch Kats with the NCE push buttons...Lol P.S. I seemed to remember asking you if I could use the Kato switch controllers with a separate power source? This is so new to me I'm starting to get very disillusioned with the whole process. I'm just trying to do it right. I'm sorry if I confused you. Thanks anyway. Mark
I’m renewing myself to the hobby after being on hiatus for over 30 years. During operating sessions, the Rod System might work better unless all controllers are programmed to work each turnout. (I’m on the DCC learning curve). Is there an easy way to use a manual control method for the Kato side mounted manual throw device on the Kato switch? Or, you must wire the Kato Turnout and buy their Turnout Control Device. Total cost for each Turnout adds up and it gets expensive…. Around $30 per Turnout or thereabouts? Maybe I’m lost too, or am I close to what you were asking?
@@TheDCCGuy Can you be a little more specific. I went to Amazon and checked out what they offered but anything listed as a drill looked as big as my cordless Dewalt and anything smaller was listed as a cordless screwdriver and they had no drill chuck.
Try cordless screwdriver. Here is one similar to mine but they have several different variations. www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCS20C-Lithium-Ion-Rechargeable/dp/B00TM2T9C2/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=look+for+cordless+screwdriver&qid=1606512901&refinements=p_89%3ABLACK%2BDECKER&rnid=2528832011&s=hi&sr=1-7
Hi Larry. Getting back to my question about directly powering my Kato remote switches with the Kato 840 controller. Would the MRC Pailpower 1300 Powerpack do the trick? Thanks
I went to the Kato website and cannot find anything on the 28-840 so I have no idea how it works, whether it uses DC or AC or DCC, a d what voltage it requires. Do you have an instructions sheet with that info?
@@TheDCCGuy The MRC Railpower offers 0-15 Volts DC for track power with an optional 19 volt AC output for accessories. Total power for the railpower os 0.75 amps The 840 takes 12V DC. So because I'm using the NCE power Cab system , which is DCC, di I have to insulate the switches in order for the switches to work properly? This is all the information I was able to get. Thanks again for being so attentive to my needs at this point. It's really important tome that I get it right. Hope this helps.
Here is one thread I found doing an internet source. This seems to answer your question. www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?38881-Kato-24-840-wiring-question
@@TheDCCGuy Yep, thanks so much for your looking into this for me. It seems like that's the answer. I guess since the track is DCC and the turnouts now will be DC, I might have to insulate the switches? Do you think that might be the thing to do? I'm so sorry for bothering you about this situation, but it's better to ask questions then to fry your layout...lol Mark
G'Day Larry I am new to your channel and I was wondering if you have done any clips on how to solder wires to the tracks with out melting the plastic sleepers they are attached too? Also do you know how to set up a loop track so that when the engine gets back on the line leading into the loop it keeps going forwards as the power track would now be flipped to the other side for the engine? I read something about this years ago in a model train mag but most of my mags are still packed away after I moved as I don't have anywhere to unpack them to. If I remember right it said that you don't have the track actually connected to the points and you run wires from the end track over to the other track only you cross the wires over so that the power side still connects to the power side track to keep the power flow correct and that you only have to put the transformer into reverse so the train keeps going forward as the train is now running in the opposite direct while facing forwards. I just want to confirm I am remembering this right for a single line into a loop. The easiest thing to do would be to run two lines to the loop however here in Australia there were the od rail lines that were single lines and had a loop at the ends so that the trains could run to the end of the line and keep going forward without having to uncouple the engine and turn it around then re-couple it to the head of the train. The loop meant the train could just keep going and it was quicker this way. I think all of these small lines have closed down
Kapt-will you be using DC or DCC for the layout, it makes a different with return loop wiring. I know I have written about this and may have touched on it in a past video but I don’t remember doing one on it specifically. With 250 magazine articles, 4 books, over 300 blog posts, and 150 videos its all starting to run together.
I will be using DC. At the moment I am trying to get as much info as possible before I start building the layout however I've been collecting trains and stock along with as much scenery as I could so far. I hope to start building as soon as I get the shed built next year that I have for it. I am thinking of copying a small branch line that used to run that had the loop at the end of it hence the info I asked you about how to put in a loop. Regards Martin.
Larry, thank you for all these great videos! I watch them for each step as I build my layout. For each step, I watch the video one time to grasp the scope of the work, then play it again while I'm actually doing the work! Pausing as needed. I just tonight installed my Bluepoint machine on my mock up exactly like you did it in the video and it works GREAT! I'm going to start adding them to my layout shortly. You are a wealth of knowledge and we are all so lucky that you are someone who is honestly enthusiastic about helping others! Thank you again!
Thank you very much for your efforts and explanations. they really have helped me.
Nice video.
Your demonstration really helped to simplify Bkue Point Installation.
So happy that I stumbled on your site. I had no idea these switch machines could be activated from opposite sides of a layout. I'm installing an island or rather a peninsula in the middle of a spare bedroom n scale layout that currently travels around the four walls. I always wanted to try these and now I have a reason to give them a try. Many Thanks!!! As a tip: I have installed all-thread into similar plastic (yellow) tubes by placing the all-thread in my drill chuck and holding the tube with a pair of pliers. Slowly letting the drill screw in the all-thread.
I can imagine all kinds of mishaps with that method but hey if it works go for it. Like my grandad used to say there’s more than one way to skin a cat! 👍
I realize that my comment is late based on the posting date of your video, however, I feel I can add some good information. Those flexible push rods have been used in the R/C airplane hobby for decades. They are inexpensive and very reliable. That might serve as an alternative source for purchase, as well as with the clevises and threaded rod ends. Additionally, for your double blue point idea, there are several different styles of push rods available based on the needed flexibility. All of them work very well and for railroad use would be fool proof. 😊
Congratulations on having 10,000 subscribers. Reentering the hobby after a 45+ yr. absence and I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work Larry.
Welcome back to a great hobby.
Great job. I will tackle that one on my layout.
Fantastic milestone achievement Larry.
Great video,
I guess I never really considered mechanical point operation but I have to admit that the tactile experience of using this method certainty intrigues me.
Great video look forward to the next one.
Nick Australia
I like the system but one potential,problem might be folks rubbing up against the fasica and breaking the pushbuttons off. However the shelf I will be installing later with act as a standoff to help protect them as well as give operators a place to set drinks, throttles, paperwork, etc. Lot’s more to come!
You can any size you need of those cable clamps off Amazon and eBay. I purchased 500 of the 3/16” about a month ago👍
Hi Larry. By the way the MRC Railpower 1300 Power in Conjunction with the 840's with the Kato 842 DC convertor connected to the controller, with the switches going to the DC and the wires from the convertor going to the AC. That's all it takes. I just wanted to let you know so if anyone else asks you the same question, you'll have the answer. I thank you again for looking up what you did in order to help me get where I wanted to be. Speak to you again soon. Mark
Glad you were able to get it sorted out.
Another great Video Larry, those Point Machines look really good and easy to install. So pleased that you’ve made 10K. Keep safe.
Thanks Larry, Been waiting on this every sense I bought my Blue Point Switch Machines. Really enjoy your Videos.
Rick-One final Blue Point video coming tomorrow so don’t blink.
Keep it up Larry 👍👍👍
Awesome video
The nyrods, threaded rod and Clevis are sold in the RC airplane industry. They have been used sense the mid 70's for use as control rods for the control surfaces. I use to fly them back in those days. Just thought you should know that there is another source for these. Drilled blocks of wood and epoxy can be used as stabilizers for the nyrods.
Yes, I had my adventures with sailplanes a few years ago. I checked several of the manufacturers websites but couldn’t find these listed except on the Du-Bro site.
Insert threaded rod into the chuck on your drill and it will be faster to connect to yellow tubing.
Congratulations on reaching 10,000 subscribers. I have seen other layouts before with those knobs sticking out the front panel and wondered what they were for. I am going to use servo motors mounted under the baseboard and controlled by Arduino boards. (Well that the plan.) Martin. (Thailand)
Yes, I think those will gain popularity in the future. If I was about 10 years or so younger I might get carried away with Arduinos, Raspberry Pi’s, etc, but right now I have enough on my plate just keeping up with the run of the mill stuff.
Thanks...really interesting. I'd never seen these pushrod system before!
And well done and well deserved on getting to 10k !
I am impressed now after installing them, although I won’t be tearing out my Tortoises!
Great tutorial Larry
THANK YOU...for sharing.
No problem.
WAHOO Congratulations my friend great channel
Thanks, the good thong is I do enjoy doing it.
So far I've used only Fast Tracks "Bullfrog" turnout controller, and it's about the same idea. The biggest difference is that it's all laser cut and you have to put it together yourself, as well as the thing that you push and pull on. I'm happy with it, but some of the switches don't really inspire confidence, like the way it goes together means it doesn't feel like it's going to properly trigger the switch to change polarity. It's a more simple switch though, and not dpdt. I'm curious why they felt that was necessary. Maybe they just had a lot?
Congratulations on 10K, thanks for sharing this.
Thanks Ken.
Great information. 10K - Congrats.
Thanks, Daryl
Great video Larry, I'm looking forward to seeing how you connect up a double through and throw point with the pushrod system that you are using on your next video. I was also wondering how close you can tie both points together with the one pushrod, thank you, Larry you're doing a grand job, regards Jon.
I got the crossover connection installed and it actually works so we’ll take a look at it Monday!
Congrats on 10k!
Well done on 10k subscribers.
Thanks Peter.
Larry, congratulations. I’ve enjoyed many of your videos and hope to apply many of your techniques. My question, can the bluepoint machine power indicator lights on the fascia? Would be great to see a how to video.
Yes, that would work with half of the DPDT switch on theBlue Points. I’ll try to suggest that as well as other uses on Monday.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you
Hi Larry. I have Kato track along with DCC NCE Power Cab system. I'd like to know if I can use the Kato switch controllers with a separate power source. Could you suggest which one to use?
Sorry for asking this question on this particular video...lol I'm just trying so hard to get the right answers to my questions so I can move along with putting my dream together for my granddaughter.
I appreciate your input. I'm starting to put the dots together. I'm also trying not to be afraid to try stuff with the layout. Especially when it works out! Thanks again. Mark
Most accessory decoders designed for turnout control can use a separate power supply. This can either be a wall wart power supply or an accessory power bus using something like the Tam Valley Depot booster or a spare booster. I know that some of the Digitrax accessory decoders offer Kato control and there may be others, just need to do some research.
@@TheDCCGuy Would I also have to use Kato insulated unijoiners on each switch?
Sorry but I have no experience with those so don’t know how they are wired. Check out Allan Gartner’s website www.wiringfordcc.com I know he covers them.
Between the cost of the Blue Point Machine, the Rods, Nobs, Connectors, +. Were is the advantage Vs a Frog Machine since you need the DCC system anyway. I am not looking at the difference in usage, cost only.
Congrats on reaching 10,000 subscribers.
Do you remove the switch springs from the switches ?
I usually do but as I pointed out in a recent video the Blue Point throw wire can switch the points even with the spring in place.
Larry, do you know if you have to remove the spring on Peco turn-outs to allow the blue point switch machine to change the points?
I don’t remember trying it with the springs installed. As a matter of habit I remove them for use with my Tortoises and iP Digitals.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you Larry for the fast reply! Enjoy your videos, keep up the good work! Btw I couldn’t get them to work with the springs installed, no matter if the hole was 3/8’s and enlarged side to side.
I have an old linnel S gauge train I believe my controller has gone bad what controller would work with this S gauage engine
I suggest visiting a shop that specializes in Lionel trains. They often do repairs and sell new and used equipment.
did you fly RC planes? same type of rods used with the clevis
Yes I did at one time but when I made this video during covid even they were hard to find.
Where can you get the yellow and red tubing?
I got it from Tonys Trains. It was a bit hard to find at that time, I guess due to Covid production issues. RC airplane dealers may sell similar control parts but I couldn’t find them in stock either.
Hi Larry. If I went with the Wall wart, would I need 12V DC / 2amp or 24V 1,2Amp? Would I then set up a separate bus line for this? Thanks again for being so kind!! Mark
It depends on the device, it should tell you in the manual what use and how it works. Most if not all manufacturers provide manuals for download on their websites.
@@TheDCCGuy The ( 12V not to exceed 24W} LED Strip Lights / Cable Modem / Arduino PCB Design / External Hard Drive. That's basically all it says!
Hope this gives you an idea if this will work or not. Thanks again for any imput that you can give me. It just lightens the load! Mark
Ok, I am not exactly sure what you’re asking me here. At one point I thought you were looking for an accessory decoder to run lights or turnout motors.Now it sounds like you just want to power them directly? I am lost.
@@TheDCCGuy I'm sorry that I might have misled you, but yes I'd like to power them directly. I like the idea of having all the controllers lined up in front of me.
I don't know I might change my mind and go with the switch Kats with the NCE push buttons...Lol P.S. I seemed to remember asking you if I could use the Kato
switch controllers with a separate power source? This is so new to me I'm starting to get very disillusioned with the whole process. I'm just trying to do it right. I'm sorry
if I confused you. Thanks anyway. Mark
I’m renewing myself to the hobby after being on hiatus for over 30 years.
During operating sessions, the Rod System might work better unless all controllers are programmed to work each turnout. (I’m on the DCC learning curve).
Is there an easy way to use a manual control method for the Kato side mounted manual throw device on the Kato switch?
Or, you must wire the Kato Turnout and buy their Turnout Control Device.
Total cost for each Turnout adds up and it gets expensive…. Around $30 per Turnout or thereabouts?
Maybe I’m lost too, or am I close to what you were asking?
I noticed you used what I would call an electric "Mini-drill" in making this installation. Can you share who manufactures that?
Black and Decker, available at all big box hardware stores and Amazon of course.
@@TheDCCGuy Can you be a little more specific. I went to Amazon and checked out what they offered but anything listed as a drill looked as big as my cordless Dewalt and anything smaller was listed as a cordless screwdriver and they had no drill chuck.
Try cordless screwdriver. Here is one similar to mine but they have several different variations.
www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCS20C-Lithium-Ion-Rechargeable/dp/B00TM2T9C2/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=look+for+cordless+screwdriver&qid=1606512901&refinements=p_89%3ABLACK%2BDECKER&rnid=2528832011&s=hi&sr=1-7
this is all new. i do not understand what the Blue Point Switch Machines do as far as the soldering of the wires if its a manual system
It is a manual system and the built in DPDT switch can be used to control the polarity of the frog or to control signals/animation.
Hi Larry. Getting back to my question about directly powering my Kato remote switches with the Kato 840 controller. Would the MRC Pailpower 1300 Powerpack do the trick? Thanks
I went to the Kato website and cannot find anything on the 28-840 so I have no idea how it works, whether it uses DC or AC or DCC, a d what voltage it requires. Do you have an instructions sheet with that info?
@@TheDCCGuy The MRC Railpower offers 0-15 Volts DC for track power with an optional 19 volt AC output for accessories. Total power for the railpower os 0.75 amps
The 840 takes 12V DC. So because I'm using the NCE power Cab system , which is DCC, di I have to insulate the switches in order for the switches to work properly?
This is all the information I was able to get. Thanks again for being so attentive to my needs at this point. It's really important tome that I get it right. Hope this helps.
Here is one thread I found doing an internet source. This seems to answer your question.
www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?38881-Kato-24-840-wiring-question
@@TheDCCGuy Yep, thanks so much for your looking into this for me. It seems like that's the answer. I guess since the track is DCC and the turnouts now will be DC, I might have to insulate the switches? Do you think that might be the thing to do? I'm so sorry for bothering you about this situation, but it's better to ask questions then to fry your layout...lol Mark
G'Day Larry I am new to your channel and I was wondering if you have done any clips on how to solder wires to the tracks with out melting the plastic sleepers they are attached too? Also do you know how to set up a loop track so that when the engine gets back on the line leading into the loop it keeps going forwards as the power track would now be flipped to the other side for the engine? I read something about this years ago in a model train mag but most of my mags are still packed away after I moved as I don't have anywhere to unpack them to. If I remember right it said that you don't have the track actually connected to the points and you run wires from the end track over to the other track only you cross the wires over so that the power side still connects to the power side track to keep the power flow correct and that you only have to put the transformer into reverse so the train keeps going forward as the train is now running in the opposite direct while facing forwards. I just want to confirm I am remembering this right for a single line into a loop. The easiest thing to do would be to run two lines to the loop however here in Australia there were the od rail lines that were single lines and had a loop at the ends so that the trains could run to the end of the line and keep going forward without having to uncouple the engine and turn it around then re-couple it to the head of the train. The loop meant the train could just keep going and it was quicker this way. I think all of these small lines have closed down
Kapt-will you be using DC or DCC for the layout, it makes a different with return loop wiring. I know I have written about this and may have touched on it in a past video but I don’t remember doing one on it specifically. With 250 magazine articles, 4 books, over 300 blog posts, and 150 videos its all starting to run together.
I will be using DC. At the moment I am trying to get as much info as possible before I start building the layout however I've been collecting trains and stock along with as much scenery as I could so far. I hope to start building as soon as I get the shed built next year that I have for it. I am thinking of copying a small branch line that used to run that had the loop at the end of it hence the info I asked you about how to put in a loop.
Regards Martin.