I don’t do screen printing I was just interested in the digital preparation process which is why I clicked on this originally but this has been such a good tutorial I have learnt so much thanks
Really glad I came across your channel. I wanted to combine my photography hobby with printing T shirts. I was seriously thinking about saving up for a DTG printer. I may get one in the future, but I will be able to start sooner with a screen printer.
Nice!!! Screen printing will be a more affordable route. It definitely has more of a learning curve than a DTG, but you can do it. Plus it'll add a cool hand made feel / pitch to it.
This was bad ass Matt! Felt like I watched an episode on tv! Anddd I even watched the adds. Cmyk process is good to watch and learn. One day I’ll get there 🤣
Thank you for the tutorial. Very helpful. Can I choke the white base in PS by adding a white stroke to the layer - maybe 1 px on center? I want to make sure the white doesn't show and to make registration a lil easier.
Hey! I’ve seen a few of your videos and they’re super, super helpful. You might have this already, and I haven’t been able to find it, but do you have any absolute beginner tutorials? I got a DIY Print Shop kit for Christmas and I have very little idea of what I need to do to print successfully with it, especially for designs that require color separations. Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer!
Hey Mikey great video, hope you can answer my questions on a old video. Can I do this same process on manual? If so should I also do yellow-Magenta-flash-cyan-black? Is that plastisol or waterbase?
Thank you! It will be even easier on a manual, aside from time. Print flash print flash the white base and flash all of the cmyk colors. It'll come out nicer that way on a manual. I used plastisol inks.
You just need to make sure your films are dark (can't see light through the film). We have a tutorial here on how to separate the art and turn the art into halftones without a RIP software. ua-cam.com/video/HnTCgdNGOB4/v-deo.html
65 LPI on 305 mesh. If you can get or have a higher mesh, then all the better. I would stick with nothing lower than a 156 for the white base. I flattening screen would be idea, but not 100% necessary.
Coating screens in the dark or a darkroom isn't all that pertinent. It's not like photo film where it'll expose immediately. Emulsion does't become active until it is dry. We've had gallons of emulsion in our shop last well over a year without any issues.
Hi Im totally new to this so a rookie question here What would happen if you simply did the same process on dark media without the white base ? Would the cmyk colors not show at all ? Or does it mean the colors will show but it just won't be that vibrant & popping
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 yes thanks again ! I only recently learned printers don't print white 😆 , it never occurred the base is white such as paper & it makes up for it . Haha
Mikey is it? excelent result you got in there.. have you spoke to Jonathan recently? I ask him a tips to do this similiar job but unfortunately I couldn't pull this off. the result i got is quite good but not good enough. and often I got a problem like ink pickup mostly and make the shirt pulled up and ruin the registration. I also adjust off contact and put more adhesive to the palette it solve the "pulled shirt off" but another problem came up which is dificult to detach the shirt from palette(sometimes print got crack out). ps. I use manual presses. hope you could reach me with a tips or might be hidden tricks ;p I only can do this by hit flash hit flash and it quite longer than wet on wet. however I have no problem doing wet on wet without underbase. thanking in advance. :D
It's been a little while since I've talked to Jonathan because I've just been keeping busy with our business. Sounds like you need to use a higher mesh screen for your under base. Try using a 200 or 230. That'll help keep the under base from sticking to your screens. Great thing with a manual, is you can flash between each of the CMYK colors which will help as well. I hope this helps!
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 yep.. I hope ur business went well and have a bright future ahead. already did on high mesh but still not work yet. I think what i need to do is keep practicing till the day come along. thanks for tips mikey.. :D
I was just updating you on the shirt I wanted done. I sent the design through. The receptionist told me she would be pricing it but I still haven’t gotten it. I was just letting you know...
Would you use the same art settings as if printing on just a white shirt as opposed to an underbase? We made an underbase for a process print we did to experiment and it just didn't look the same; almost like pastels printed instead of CKMY......
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 ..It was a while back....No less than 160 for sure...It was either 160 or 196....I'll have to try it again during down time.. I can't recall printing a few shirts or just doing a one-off...But I was at my max gain because it was after printing the job and I kept the screens flooded so I didn't clean them and then print it...Wouldn't do that!
@@jakecybok6436 I hear that! Give it another shot. I would say the best method for printing on dark shirts is spot process, but if you're limited on colors and the job requires more colors than your press has, CMYK on a white base isn't a bad way to go. Just tends to be tricky.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 Yea, without a doubt simulated process is the way to go on darks for sure which is what we do! I've had some inquiries about CKMY on a lot of black shirts and would take WAY too long to DTG and that just doesn't pay. I'm limited to 7 heads because of an inline flash and white takes 1 head so I'm down to 6 and these customers want 10+ color designs. I've had to turn them down multiple times because I just can't get all them colors, regardless of how we play with the half-tones. Like I said, I'll try to set up another job and put an underbase and play with it!...(Another press is out of the question right now)
@@jakecybok6436 I hear that! Sometimes we can over print colors to get new colors, but if they're wanting spot colors then we just out source them to Sunline Products so we can retain their business and still make some money off of marking up the shirts.
I have been trying to do an under base for a week and no luck. I just saw this video and I got stuck where you mention about hit option right after you say hit the D on the keyboard. Sorry, I use pc I know you use a mac. Can you help me out on this?
Hitting D on the keyboard simply brings up the default black and white swatches / pallet in Photoshop. So the idea is to make the white base layer just black. So you can make a transparency for the white base. Let me know if this helps.
I have been waiting on this... and there goes that 1 dislike that you always have. how could you dislike videos like this? lol & smh.
Thanks! LOL, it would be great if UA-cam let you know who they are, haha.
I don’t do screen printing I was just interested in the digital preparation process which is why I clicked on this originally but this has been such a good tutorial I have learnt so much thanks
Really glad I came across your channel. I wanted to combine my photography hobby with printing T shirts. I was seriously thinking about saving up for a DTG printer. I may get one in the future, but I will be able to start sooner with a screen printer.
Nice!!! Screen printing will be a more affordable route. It definitely has more of a learning curve than a DTG, but you can do it. Plus it'll add a cool hand made feel / pitch to it.
Great work. Prints came out super clean.
Thank you!
This was bad ass Matt! Felt like I watched an episode on tv! Anddd I even watched the adds. Cmyk process is good to watch and learn. One day I’ll get there 🤣
Hahaha! Thank you so much! I worked on this one for a while.
Thanks, very educational video!!
Thank you!
Man your prints are just so on point.
Thanks, David!!!
No worries. Will place that order shortly.
@@davidlintin Sounds good!
Thank you for the tutorial. Very helpful. Can I choke the white base in PS by adding a white stroke to the layer - maybe 1 px on center? I want to make sure the white doesn't show and to make registration a lil easier.
awesome Job!
Thank you!
"like" before watching video.
Big up!
Thanks a lot for the translation
Any time.
i will be this good one day soon!
Definitely! Just takes doing jobs to hone in the skill.
thanks majke you are rad
Thank you!
good video understandable your tutorial
Glad it helped
great video and tutorial man. felt like I was actually there haha
Glad to hear it!
Good video buddy
Thanks, Sonny!!!
great vid
Thank you!
Hey! I’ve seen a few of your videos and they’re super, super helpful. You might have this already, and I haven’t been able to find it, but do you have any absolute beginner tutorials? I got a DIY Print Shop kit for Christmas and I have very little idea of what I need to do to print successfully with it, especially for designs that require color separations. Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer!
Great videos ! Learned a lot .... wondering could a forced air flash be used for both plastisols and water based inks ?
Thank you!!! It definitely can. We have a forced air conveyor we use for both. Just turn the air flow function on for Waterbased and discharge inks.
By popular demand, step by step how to screen print CMYK on a white base...
Are you using willflex CMYK water based inks?
cmyk is scarrryyyyy. INDEX !
LOL! CMYK takes a lot of patience. Spot process!!!
how do you get your registrations to print on the film without them being seperated into halftones as well?
Hey Mikey great video, hope you can answer my questions on a old video.
Can I do this same process on manual? If so should I also do yellow-Magenta-flash-cyan-black?
Is that plastisol or waterbase?
Thank you! It will be even easier on a manual, aside from time. Print flash print flash the white base and flash all of the cmyk colors. It'll come out nicer that way on a manual. I used plastisol inks.
I only have a 4 color screen print. How would you print a black shirt with a 4 color print if white base is necessary?
is there any way of accurately printing the film negatives with out accu rip?
You just need to make sure your films are dark (can't see light through the film). We have a tutorial here on how to separate the art and turn the art into halftones without a RIP software. ua-cam.com/video/HnTCgdNGOB4/v-deo.html
so 65 LPI using 330 mesh? also for the white under base should i use a 160 for a bit less ink? i do use a flatting screen
65 LPI on 305 mesh. If you can get or have a higher mesh, then all the better. I would stick with nothing lower than a 156 for the white base. I flattening screen would be idea, but not 100% necessary.
Did you use cymk agnles or 22.5 angles for all?
Yes! 22.5 for all.
great video, So..., the white under base is actually the whole illustration to be printed, right?
That's correct. You're treating the white base almost like using it as a white t=shirt.
You printed the films straight from Ai with out any plug-ins other than the accurip?
You got it! :)
Hey Mike: Bro, how come you coating with that emulsion in the light like that? Is that a special emulsion? How long is it's life after openning?
Coating screens in the dark or a darkroom isn't all that pertinent. It's not like photo film where it'll expose immediately. Emulsion does't become active until it is dry. We've had gallons of emulsion in our shop last well over a year without any issues.
how many coat for the white underbase u need to do if using black tshirt?
Just do a print flash print flash. So 2 coats. Thanks for watching!
If I use a 60 LPI and I use the CMYK angle (c-15 m-75 y-0 b-45) what mesh should I use and what mesh should I use for the under base
I would go with a 230.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 230 for the underbase? And should I go with a higher mesh (305) for the colors (cmyk)
@@ivanramos5735 You got it!!! Hit the under base a couple times with a print flash print flash.
I wanted to do cmyk on hoodies but its not looking good
Try spot process / simulated process.
Hi Im totally new to this so a rookie question here
What would happen if you simply did the same process on dark media without the white base ?
Would the cmyk colors not show at all ? Or does it mean the colors will show but it just won't be that vibrant & popping
It wouldn't show. Kind of like running black paper through a color printer. The inks are transparent.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 yes thanks again !
I only recently learned printers don't print white 😆 , it never occurred the base is white such as paper & it makes up for it . Haha
Is loading the color profile important? And where can I download this?
It is because it adjust the image for gain.
Mikey is it? excelent result you got in there.. have you spoke to Jonathan recently? I ask him a tips to do this similiar job but unfortunately I couldn't pull this off. the result i got is quite good but not good enough. and often I got a problem like ink pickup mostly and make the shirt pulled up and ruin the registration. I also adjust off contact and put more adhesive to the palette it solve the "pulled shirt off" but another problem came up which is dificult to detach the shirt from palette(sometimes print got crack out). ps. I use manual presses. hope you could reach me with a tips or might be hidden tricks ;p
I only can do this by hit flash hit flash and it quite longer than wet on wet. however I have no problem doing wet on wet without underbase. thanking in advance. :D
It's been a little while since I've talked to Jonathan because I've just been keeping busy with our business.
Sounds like you need to use a higher mesh screen for your under base. Try using a 200 or 230. That'll help keep the under base from sticking to your screens. Great thing with a manual, is you can flash between each of the CMYK colors which will help as well.
I hope this helps!
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 yep.. I hope ur business went well and have a bright future ahead.
already did on high mesh but still not work yet. I think what i need to do is keep practicing till the day come along.
thanks for tips mikey.. :D
@@mateorenai Any time! Maybe try a different white ink. That may help.
Is CMYK The same thing as simulated spot ??
Not at all. CMYK uses transparent inks, and simulated uses opaque inks and needs more colors to achieve a full color print.
I was just updating you on the shirt I wanted done. I sent the design through. The receptionist told me she would be pricing it but I still haven’t gotten it. I was just letting you know...
I'll get with her this morning and see where she is at with it.
Mikey Designs & Silk Screen thank you!
@@svobingo6382 Any time!
what ink do you use your epson?? dmax??
I get them from CISInks.com
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 your the man
Would you use the same art settings as if printing on just a white shirt as opposed to an underbase? We made an underbase for a process print we did to experiment and it just didn't look the same; almost like pastels printed instead of CKMY......
You would use the same settings. What mesh were you using for the under base?
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 ..It was a while back....No less than 160 for sure...It was either 160 or 196....I'll have to try it again during down time.. I can't recall printing a few shirts or just doing a one-off...But I was at my max gain because it was after printing the job and I kept the screens flooded so I didn't clean them and then print it...Wouldn't do that!
@@jakecybok6436 I hear that! Give it another shot. I would say the best method for printing on dark shirts is spot process, but if you're limited on colors and the job requires more colors than your press has, CMYK on a white base isn't a bad way to go. Just tends to be tricky.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 Yea, without a doubt simulated process is the way to go on darks for sure which is what we do! I've had some inquiries about CKMY on a lot of black shirts and would take WAY too long to DTG and that just doesn't pay. I'm limited to 7 heads because of an inline flash and white takes 1 head so I'm down to 6 and these customers want 10+ color designs. I've had to turn them down multiple times because I just can't get all them colors, regardless of how we play with the half-tones. Like I said, I'll try to set up another job and put an underbase and play with it!...(Another press is out of the question right now)
@@jakecybok6436 I hear that! Sometimes we can over print colors to get new colors, but if they're wanting spot colors then we just out source them to Sunline Products so we can retain their business and still make some money off of marking up the shirts.
What is printing on a white base and why would you need that?
White base is white ink so your colors will show up on a shirt.
I have been trying to do an under base for a week and no luck. I just saw this video and I got stuck where you mention about hit option right after you say hit the D on the keyboard. Sorry, I use pc I know you use a mac. Can you help me out on this?
Hitting D on the keyboard simply brings up the default black and white swatches / pallet in Photoshop. So the idea is to make the white base layer just black. So you can make a transparency for the white base. Let me know if this helps.
@@mikeydesignssilkscreen473 I got that part I just didn't get when you said hit option and delete. What's the option key on a PC
@@ivanramos5735 Gotcha. That would be alt delete on the PC.