Has this tip helped you? Here is a free way to help me. Here is my Amazon influencer page that has many of the parts I've used in videos and some parts that friends have used. www.amazon.com/shop/poweraddicts-fixjeepscom-jeepcarandmotorcycletips?ref=ac_inf_hm_vp . By purchasing through this Amazon page you help me get a small commission of the sale and you do not get charged a cent more. Keep checking back because I update the Amazon page often. Thanks for your support!
You da' man!!!!! My '01 TJ 2.5 suddenly pooped out at a stop light. Stranded. No warning, no CEL... dealership and auto parts store wanted to just start randomly throwing parts into it with no tests/rhyme/reason. I followed your instructions and found a dead coil. Dealer and store wanted to sell me a crank pos sensor AND cam pos sensor. Fine ideas, but that would have been $125 and still no fix. New coil was $35 and done. My sincerest thanks, my brother!!!! Long-time subber here.
I loved this video. it told me exactly how to test my coil.. which I am about to go do. on another subject.. here is something I learned about my 2006 Jeep wrangler.... which I could not find on the internet This jeep was hardly ever used as it sat in my garage in a house in florida. Then I brought it "home" to PA. About 6 months later, I could not fill the tank with gas without it taking maybe a half hour !! I learned the check valve in the tank was jammed closed. Probably from Ethanol gas. Lots of videos showed how to take the tank out, or at least access the tank and valve to fix it. Instead, I took a 18 inch long piece of 1/2 inch ID plastic tubing.. (you can buy at any hardware store) and ran it down the fill tube till it stopped.. market the tube at that point.. so I could see if it moved further.. then gave it a tap.. and popped open the check valve. it has been fine ever since.
Nice and simple way of showing how to check for spark for the ignition coil n spark plug spark. Great explanation of setting for oms n volts and where to put it. Alot of times these videos say put on oms n tell you what the readings should be without telling which oms setting to put it on. This will help me figure out what's going on with my XJ.
This video - testing ignition coil - was outstanding for the not-so-handy YJ owner. 1993 YJ 4.0L. Sometimes it would start no problem, and then - Cranking cranking and cranking but not starting. Starter and battery good. Did the test just like the video. Resistance is high on coil. I have one on order.
Hey there. Awesome videos. Really helpful this week. Long story short. I've got a buddy that put an 89 2.5l into a 92 yj. He couldn't get it to run. While he's on his honeymoon I've been sneaking over to his house to try and get it going for him as a wedding present. So far this is where I'm at. CPS turned up faulty, replaced. (your video helped massively) Tested coil, good to go (again, awesome video.) Ensured timing at TDC and dist aligned. Tested for spark on all 4 cylinders, good to go. (seems really weak though. spark tester wasn't flashing very brightly. tested with spare plug, yellow spark, not white or blue) I've had stuck up girlfriends that are easier to get going than this thing! I'm going to test the fuel pressure this weekend, but I sprayed some starting fluid and still couldn't get a studder. Hepmee hepmee. I'm all out of ideas and they get back sunday!
+Charles Davis If the coil tested good, then you may have a "not so solid" ground going to the coil. Pull the coil off and clean every bolt/bracket contact that touches the coil. You want bare metal contact for solid ground. Then check all ground straps/wires. There should be a heavy wires from the battery to the block (obviously) pull it .. clean it. If that still doesn't work, run another wire to the 12volt side of the coil to the battery, then try starting it. Possible voltage dropping during you trying to start it (if so .. you got bigger issues). If you run that wire from coil to battery to the battery, don't let it set to long without trying to start it, it can over heat the coil. If none of that works .. replace the coil anyway. With a weak spark, compression can suppress the remaining spark until it will not fire the engine at all. I've seen this happen on many small block chevys. Coil posts tested good but coil was still bad. Why?? I have no idea. But we changed the coil and it fired up. Hope this helps!! Hey man, what you are doing for your buddy is really cool!! Thanks for using my videos and all the great comments! Have a great day!
Thanks for the video. I've got a 97 tj that's been sitting for months with old gas. Started once, chugged to a stop, now just turns over. Figured bad gas, but won't fire with starting fluid. Going to run your tests tomorrow. Hope it's not the ecm again, already replaced it once. Anyway, thanks!!
Really useful, I my dad's Jeep stopped working, he stopped in a gas station to get a drink, it never started again, I was sure it was the ignition coil because it's all cracked up and rusty, but with this test, I gotta believe that it's still good, not all that good, but 40% good, and my dad tested the crank sensor and said that it went bad, I might check after him because when he tested the coil, he wasn't able to get a reading
If the crank sensor goes bad, the coil will not spark at all. The crank and cam position sensor is what tells the computer when to fire the coil. If either one of those two go bad. The coil will not spark. Crank sensors are common to go bad, I keep an extra in my Jeep all the time. Thanks for dropping in and have a great day!
Power Addicts - FixJeeps.com - Jeep, car and motorcycle tips Thanks, but the Jeep was already running weird at idle, like an old V8 or a harley davidson motorcycle, it didn't felt right, that's why I thought it was the coil, but can crank sensors get dysfunctional before they die or they just die suddenly?
Typically the crank sensor just goes suddenly. Sometimes, once they cool down, they will come back to life intermittently just to die again when they heat up. As for coils, they can be still functional yet be weak. Personally, if I have any doubt in the coil, I just replace them. They aren't too awfully expensive. The proper output voltage can pay you back in fuel mileage..
Mine is in the driveway since last weekend, when it died the engine was still hot and it didn't start, few days later it's totally cold and when I'm cranking it because my dad is testing things with his test light, it wasn't starting either, thank god he got a brand new high quality batterie in it a few moths ago, we are cranking it like crazy and it's still at 12 volts
Good battery is priceless!! Buddy of mine and I were on motorcycles riding from Nashville to New Orleans. His battery died on the way, left hid bike stranded on the side of the interstate. I rode an hour back the other way to pick up another battery to get his rolling again. Crank sensors don't always come back. My nephews Cherokee didn't. It didn't fire back up until the crank sensor was changed.
I've been experiencing a lack of power in gear. My Jeep backfires and sputters. I'll test the ignition coil next. I noticed that my cap and rotor were burned up today but new ones didn't fix the problem. Thank you for your informative video!
Great videos! I'm trying to troubleshoot my non working tachometer. Per my wiring diagrams, one of the roles of the green signal wire coming from the coil is to send signal to the tach. So something I should check is continuity from the coil plug (green wire) to the tach. If that's good, it may indicate a bad tach. Am I'm I thinking about this right? Trying to learn. Your videos are the best!
Thank you! Perfect timing on this video. I am dealing with a crank but no start condition on my YJ. This helps a lot and gives me a few more things to check out.
Still trying to figure out my no spark/no start on my 92 YJ. Probing the ASD relay using a test light on pin 86 shows a dim light, whereas on pin 85 has very bright light. Would it be possible the dim light is caused by a grounded wire somewhere?
Ok, I'm here searching for tips and help me solve a gremlin in my no start situation. I have a 92 2.5l 5 sp manual fuel injection YJ. Short story, a few weeks ago I was on the trail, nothing crazy mind you and it just decided to stop dead in its tracks. Try to start, didn't hear the fuel pump so I figured it went out, had it towed to camp, drop the tank, new fuel pump still no go. Now all the troubleshooting begins. Checked Relays, fuses all good, changed ignition switch, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, ignition coil pick/cam sensor, CPS, ECU all changed. Still no spark! Started probing and checking wires. The ECU is sending signal to the coil. When I turn the key on, the test light lights up, but goes away with cranking, no pulsing like in your video. The other wire as in your video should have 12v full time or just when key is on? either way there is no 12v at the other terminal of the coil plug when probed. I did the test on the coil as in your video, all readings are good! The fuel rail pressurizes and holds at 31, all lights, accessories, radio, dome, turn, brake, running lights, everything works. I'm just not getting spark and for the life of me can't figure out why. I am here looking for something that I have not yet tested, changed or figured out yet. So, all you YJ peeps here I am looking for guidance. I've had this Jeep 13 years now and been really good overall. This time, it has me baffled! HELP!
@@whosestone I must have some sort of shorted circut somewhere. I've replaced everything related. Still no spark! I don't know what else to check. No burnt or melted wiring anywhere.
I have a no start issue right now and I don’t have spark. I’ll be testing the coil tomorrow. What is high for the resistance when I check it to diagnose that it’s a bad coil?
i need help mani got a 90yj with an electric distribuitor, how do i get my tachometer to work, i've already change it but still it does not give me any signal on the gauge
Hello there i have jeep wrangler 1993 automatic trans my fuel pump when is Somers time starting right away I want is Kohler I need to open the ignition switch for at least 20 minutes and then my feel pump you can hear the click. Do you have an any idea why please help me
So i have a 98 xj that has a misfire in #2 fuel injector. Tested injector and checks out fine has same voltage as the rest. When I checked the ignition coil on the primary side I found it to be at 1.5 holmes which its supposed to be between 0.9 - 1.20 holmes. Im wondering if the high resistance is causing the misfire. What are your thoughts?
I put a new remanufactured engine in and no spark. Checked all the way to ICM. Have 3 wire going to the plug for the ICM. Yellow 12 volts, black 4 volts and Green/white 12 volts key on postion, no pulse when though when i crank. Brand new ICM. Any suggestions?
So I have 12 v on the white and pulse on the green. The ohms on the coil seem to be good swapped the cam sensor from the old engine still no spark. Also new cap and rotor. Still no spark on the wires. So is it a bad coil wire?
Hey! Love your videos. I know this is an older video. Hoping you’re checking these comments and can offer some advice. 94 YJ. I’m getting 12v at the coil connector but no spark to the distributor. Coil is brand new. Jeep sat for 2 weeks over Christmas. Ran fine before I parked it. Now I’ve got crank but no start. Any ideas?
Check the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. It is not too uncommon for the crankshaft sensor to just randomly quit. Hope that helps and you get it figured out quickly. Thanks for being part of the Power Addicts Crew!!
Changed it and it fired right up!! Now it runs very rough though. Stays running but sputters and shakes quite a bit. Given all I’ve changed out recently (CPS, plugs, wires, rotor, dist. cap, coil), any ideas on why it would be running so rough?
From the lack of replys here, maybe the doctor is out! Sure you've figured it out already since this is an old post. The clamp on the test light goes to the negative on the battery. As he shows in the video, prob the connector with a wire, maybe a paperclip would work, and twist it around the test light probe. Crank the engine to see if it lights up. Mine only lit up when I turned the key on and didn't pulse like in his video. I'm chasing a no spark situation on my YJ posted above.
So glad I found this video - got to troubleshoot my Jeep XJ 98 tomorrow. I was running car for a while with a failing spark plug lead leading to misfire on acceleration. Was starting fine tho. Replaced all leads, new dizzy cap, new rotor but now getting a crank/no spark! Getting a P0340 code too - you think I might have fried my Dizzy/camshaft position sensor or Ignition Coil?
A bad dizzy or camshaft position sensor will cause any and all of those issues. Check to make sure you didnt knock the plug off somehow to the cam & crank position sensor or coil.Also just for something else to check low battery voltage can cause these issues as well. Although very rare .. but I have seen where a battery was going bad that as the engine is being turned over, it pulled the battery voltage down so low the crank or cam position sensor doesn't trigger ignition. Take your battery in to have it checked at an auto parts store. Or, Hook a volt meter to your battery and check the voltage as the engine is being turned over. As the engine is turning over, battery voltage should not fall below 9.6ish volts. Hope this helps! Good luck and have a great day!
Ignition coil has no Spark but according to multimeter is good - just shows buying parts based on hunch & not evidence ( already ordered new Ign coil ) isn't always wise! Next will do input & battery tests you suggested. Looks like I'm probably looking at a bunk Dizzy pick up coil or CPS. Appreciate you taking the time to reply as I can't afford to go to a repair shop atm - thanks mate!
My ohms meter on my ignition coil on the two post is reading zero is that mean it's not getting anything but when I turn my ignition and I stick my test light and night green wire it's showing that it's given signal. I have been working on this motor I've been through for ignition coils I got a brand new distributor in it I'm just stopped. I am not getting fire or sometimes I get fire and it burns ignition coil up
hey there. so cleaned all the grounds. (even added one for good measure.) new coil put on. new cap and rotor. currently not getting spark on 2 and 3. swapped wires to validate. my thought is cam sensor not telling coil when to throw spark. hints?
+Charles Davis Kinda remote .. but that could be a possibility. Typically when either cam or crank position sensor goes. They are done. But just possibly those particular post/points withing the sensor could be faulty. But that would be the first Ive ever heard of that. One way to possibly confirm would be to check the coil trigger wire. Here is the link to get there easily: ua-cam.com/video/7SM8T1JqTtU/v-deo.html . When the trigger wire is sending the voltage pulse to the coil, it should be consistent. If there is an interruption in the signal there will be skipping of the coil signal. You really need to use a test light for this. It really just drives a multimeter nuts.
+Charles Davis Also, check to make sure you crank shaft position sensor is tight and not wiggling around. The cam sensor main job is to sync fuel pulses with spark pulses. The crank sensor is really the "when to sent voltage" cop. Also, I mentioned in the other reply about certain points in the cam sensor possibly being bad. The area that triggers the sensor is the pulse ring that spins above the sensor (The rotor button sits on it). Check also that the distributor cap isnt scratched on the inside causing the spark to jump. Look for dark/burnt spots where there shouldn't be any.
...........1987 to 1995 ignitiom system.............'' . The ignition system in a 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ is quite interesting. It primarily uses a **distributor-based system** to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber¹. Here are some key components and their functions: - **Distributor**: This mechanical device is driven by the camshaft and is responsible for directing high voltage from the ignition coil to the correct cylinder¹. - **Ignition Coil**: Converts the battery's low voltage to the thousands of volts needed to create an electric spark in the spark plugs². - **Spark Plugs**: Ignite the air-fuel mixture in the engine's cylinders². - **Ignition Wires**: Carry the high voltage from the distributor to the spark plugs².
Thanks for the advice just picked up 90 keep Cherokee 4x4 straight 6.changed cam sensor didn't help got it to fire off drive down rd ran good died got back to shop pulled plug and checked for fire no fire
Sound more like its the crank position sensor. Here is the video for that. The Cherokee sensor may a bit different. The principle is still the same. ua-cam.com/video/5QWJlb2Uf08/v-deo.html
Having a issue my Jeep no start. Checked the crank position sensor how you showed too in your other video and it seems good. Checked for spark and nothing. You say I should have a constant 12 volts to the plug that connects to coil but I don’t.. and when I check with the wire in the connector and the test light.. the light will flash twice and that’s it not matter how long I turn it over for. Coil is showing 1.4 on the plug connection side and 11.7 on the other side. Do you have ideas what’s going on here?
hi, commented on your crank position sensor video about starting issues with my jeep. Tested the coil and i have a primary reading of 0.20 and secondary of 10.15. Do you think those readings are extreme enough to be the cause of the non start? thanks.
Primary is really low. Secondary is pretty low also. Even if it didn't cause a no start. Id still replace the coil, it is detective. You will be paid back in better fuel mileage if nothing else. Have u checked for fuel pressure yet? In order of diagnosis, I typically check spark then fuel. At times you can have a weak spark yet still run depending on how weak the spark is. No or weak fuel pressure will cause a no start also. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the great video. You are a very good teacher. I own a 95 jeep wrangler and all of a sudden have problem with engine. It cranks, but no spark and no check engine light. Based on your youtube videos and others, it could be cps, or ecm. However, I decided to check this video on coil as I am not sure I am getting proper meter readings to/from coil. After viewing your video, I will recheck the readings. I am wondering if the coil could be the issue if I can crank, but no spark and no check engine light?
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to explain things so well. Quick question with the coil check. When you say constant power on that white wire are you saying with the ignition off or on ? I can only get the 12 volts after I turn the ignition. Please clarify and thanks for all the informative videos you do.
Sorry about the ridiculously slow reply. UA-cam comments just now made your comment available. Didnt know it was there till now. Thats ignition turned on. Glad you like the videos. Thanks for handing out with me! Have a great day!!
Hey buddy, I have a quick question for you. I have a 98 wrangler that I stalling out after it warms up. It cuts out while driving or sitting I’ve already changed the crank sensor, and cleaned the idle control valve sensor with no luck. Any ideal with it might be?
Possible O2 sensor, my dads 06 TJ did something similar. Also the water temp sensor in the thermostat water neck. Air temp sensor in the intake. Honestly, that is one of those things that cant really be diagnosed without really being there. There are several things that could cause that. Good luck! Wish I could have given you better direction. Thanks for checking out the video! Have a great day!
I know this is an older video but what if you don't get the 12v constant from the pcm? The pcm seems fine and the only codes I get from the dash is 12 and 55. Which basically means the battery has been disconnected lately and end of code
Sorry about the slow response. UA-cam didn't alert me of this comment. I live near Nashville, not really in. I haven't been back to Climb Nashville in a while. Fun place to get a serious workout! I purchased my Jeep from a little town in East Tennessee. Have a great day!!
Man I got a weird issue with my 1991 2.5 YJ. It'll start and run, die, won't start. Let it sit for a week or two and it starts right up runs great. Other then being a 91 jeep, any ideas
@@Poweraddicts I have replaced it twice threw this round. I'm seriously thinking of making the jeep analog distributor and carburetor. We live in American Samoa, it's swampy to say the least. I look at replacing the pcm that's $350.00 + already done the cps distributor plug wires cap and rotor, mapp sensor, fuel filter. Three coils, finally figured how to test(threw your video) all three of those are good. Driving me nuts man.
It's rare but I've seen it happen. It could also be your crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor went bad. Both parts are cheap and doesn't hurt to keep extras with you stored in the rig somewhere. If it's not either of the sensors then you will have to check the voltage coming from the PCM that charges the coil. One simple diagnostic for PCM is simply turn your key on and watch for the check engine light to come on. If it never lights up after turning the key on, good chance the PCM is bad. Hope that helps!! Have a great day!
+giff steve Cound be wiring or PCM (computer). Also check the voltage going to the Crank Position Sensor. Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/5QWJlb2Uf08/v-deo.html
i have a 1997 grand cherokee no start replaced the coil and crank sensor..tested the coil with a test light no voltage at all..where do i go from here..
Hey boss great video thank you I have a question for you I have a 4.0l with spark to the coil but no spark coming out of my distributor what could be the cause any ideas
+VinoPianoMan Here ya go. www.fixjeeps.com/jeep-ignition-coil.html Toward the bottom of the web page. Thanks for checking out my videos!! Have a great day!!
Hey thanks man, I figured that's what it was, took the sensor off and sure enough the wires were bad. Had a sensor from an jeep two years before but sure enough it was a different plug
I have no idea. I got lucky and ran across this copy. On my website www.fixjeeps.com/ I have many of the sensors listed. I think the only one I need to do it the cam shaft position sensor.
You have a break in the wire somewhere. Or, the Jeeps computer has gone out. Pull the wire wrap off and start tracing the wire back to the computer. Look for anyplace where the wire has been burned or frayed. Once you trace the wire back to the computer, back probe that wire while still plugged into the computer and key in the "ON" position to see if you are getting power out of the computer. If you are, there is a problem with the wire somewhere. If you are not, the computer is bad.
It will not start after putting power directly to the "full time on" wire? If thats true and you said above that you have signal power. you got a bad coil.
+Johnathan Baena No signal .. the coil doesn't know when to fire. Check the Crankshaft position sensor next .. here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/5QWJlb2Uf08/v-deo.html . After that the camshaft position sensor, unfortunately I haven't made the video for that yet. Those sensor happen to test good .. then its either a bad wire or Jeep computer (PCM) going bad. Hope this helps. Good Luck. Have a great day!
+jeff gilbreath You will have to trace the wire back to the PCM to see which pin it goes to. Check if there is voltage coming from there. If there is voltage at the computer, you have a wiring issue. If there is no voltage, PCM is bad. Hope that helps. Have a great day!
Has this tip helped you? Here is a free way to help me. Here is my Amazon influencer page that has many of the parts I've used in videos and some parts that friends have used. www.amazon.com/shop/poweraddicts-fixjeepscom-jeepcarandmotorcycletips?ref=ac_inf_hm_vp . By purchasing through this Amazon page you help me get a small commission of the sale and you do not get charged a cent more. Keep checking back because I update the Amazon page often. Thanks for your support!
You da' man!!!!! My '01 TJ 2.5 suddenly pooped out at a stop light. Stranded. No warning, no CEL... dealership and auto parts store wanted to just start randomly throwing parts into it with no tests/rhyme/reason. I followed your instructions and found a dead coil. Dealer and store wanted to sell me a crank pos sensor AND cam pos sensor. Fine ideas, but that would have been $125 and still no fix. New coil was $35 and done. My sincerest thanks, my brother!!!! Long-time subber here.
Wish my problem was as simple as yours. Read my post above. I have all new parts and still no spark!
I loved this video. it told me exactly how to test my coil.. which I am about to go do.
on another subject.. here is something I learned about my 2006 Jeep wrangler.... which I could not find on the internet
This jeep was hardly ever used as it sat in my garage in a house in florida. Then I brought it "home" to PA. About 6 months later, I could not fill the tank with gas without it taking maybe a half hour !! I learned the check valve in the tank was jammed closed. Probably from Ethanol gas. Lots of videos showed how to take the tank out, or at least access the tank and valve to fix it. Instead, I took a 18 inch long piece of 1/2 inch ID plastic tubing.. (you can buy at any hardware store) and ran it down the fill tube till it stopped.. market the tube at that point.. so I could see if it moved further.. then gave it a tap.. and popped open the check valve. it has been fine ever since.
That's interesting to know, thanks for dropping on a great suggestion! Glad the video helped you!! Have a great day!!
Steve Maguire I seen a video couple a days ago that explains why that happens and how to fix that issue. Just keep looking on UA-cam.
Nice and simple way of showing how to check for spark for the ignition coil n spark plug spark. Great explanation of setting for oms n volts and where to put it. Alot of times these videos say put on oms n tell you what the readings should be without telling which oms setting to put it on. This will help me figure out what's going on with my XJ.
Glad the video helped you!
One of the most useful vids I've come across
Glad it was helpful!
This video - testing ignition coil - was outstanding for the not-so-handy YJ owner. 1993 YJ 4.0L. Sometimes it would start no problem, and then - Cranking cranking and cranking but not starting. Starter and battery good. Did the test just like the video. Resistance is high on coil. I have one on order.
Hey there. Awesome videos. Really helpful this week. Long story short. I've got a buddy that put an 89 2.5l into a 92 yj. He couldn't get it to run. While he's on his honeymoon I've been sneaking over to his house to try and get it going for him as a wedding present. So far this is where I'm at.
CPS turned up faulty, replaced. (your video helped massively)
Tested coil, good to go (again, awesome video.)
Ensured timing at TDC and dist aligned.
Tested for spark on all 4 cylinders, good to go. (seems really weak though. spark tester wasn't flashing very brightly. tested with spare plug, yellow spark, not white or blue)
I've had stuck up girlfriends that are easier to get going than this thing! I'm going to test the fuel pressure this weekend, but I sprayed some starting fluid and still couldn't get a studder.
Hepmee hepmee. I'm all out of ideas and they get back sunday!
+Charles Davis If the coil tested good, then you may have a "not so solid" ground going to the coil. Pull the coil off and clean every bolt/bracket contact that touches the coil. You want bare metal contact for solid ground. Then check all ground straps/wires. There should be a heavy wires from the battery to the block (obviously) pull it .. clean it. If that still doesn't work, run another wire to the 12volt side of the coil to the battery, then try starting it. Possible voltage dropping during you trying to start it (if so .. you got bigger issues). If you run that wire from coil to battery to the battery, don't let it set to long without trying to start it, it can over heat the coil. If none of that works .. replace the coil anyway. With a weak spark, compression can suppress the remaining spark until it will not fire the engine at all. I've seen this happen on many small block chevys. Coil posts tested good but coil was still bad. Why?? I have no idea. But we changed the coil and it fired up. Hope this helps!! Hey man, what you are doing for your buddy is really cool!! Thanks for using my videos and all the great comments! Have a great day!
Thanks for the video. I've got a 97 tj that's been sitting for months with old gas. Started once, chugged to a stop, now just turns over. Figured bad gas, but won't fire with starting fluid. Going to run your tests tomorrow. Hope it's not the ecm again, already replaced it once. Anyway, thanks!!
What was the problem
Really useful, I my dad's Jeep stopped working, he stopped in a gas station to get a drink, it never started again, I was sure it was the ignition coil because it's all cracked up and rusty, but with this test, I gotta believe that it's still good, not all that good, but 40% good, and my dad tested the crank sensor and said that it went bad, I might check after him because when he tested the coil, he wasn't able to get a reading
If the crank sensor goes bad, the coil will not spark at all. The crank and cam position sensor is what tells the computer when to fire the coil. If either one of those two go bad. The coil will not spark. Crank sensors are common to go bad, I keep an extra in my Jeep all the time. Thanks for dropping in and have a great day!
Power Addicts - FixJeeps.com - Jeep, car and motorcycle tips Thanks, but the Jeep was already running weird at idle, like an old V8 or a harley davidson motorcycle, it didn't felt right, that's why I thought it was the coil, but can crank sensors get dysfunctional before they die or they just die suddenly?
Typically the crank sensor just goes suddenly. Sometimes, once they cool down, they will come back to life intermittently just to die again when they heat up. As for coils, they can be still functional yet be weak. Personally, if I have any doubt in the coil, I just replace them. They aren't too awfully expensive. The proper output voltage can pay you back in fuel mileage..
Mine is in the driveway since last weekend, when it died the engine was still hot and it didn't start, few days later it's totally cold and when I'm cranking it because my dad is testing things with his test light, it wasn't starting either, thank god he got a brand new high quality batterie in it a few moths ago, we are cranking it like crazy and it's still at 12 volts
Good battery is priceless!! Buddy of mine and I were on motorcycles riding from Nashville to New Orleans. His battery died on the way, left hid bike stranded on the side of the interstate. I rode an hour back the other way to pick up another battery to get his rolling again.
Crank sensors don't always come back. My nephews Cherokee didn't. It didn't fire back up until the crank sensor was changed.
I've been experiencing a lack of power in gear. My Jeep backfires and sputters. I'll test the ignition coil next. I noticed that my cap and rotor were burned up today but new ones didn't fix the problem.
Thank you for your informative video!
What ended up to being the issue
@@reedcarpenter2994, There was a fuel pressure problem. I've since installed a new fuel ump in the tank. It works great now.
@@eriku571 how did you find that out? Testing the fuel pressure?
@@reedcarpenter2994 Yeah, the pressure was fluctuating at idle...
Great videos! I'm trying to troubleshoot my non working tachometer. Per my wiring diagrams, one of the roles of the green signal wire coming from the coil is to send signal to the tach. So something I should check is continuity from the coil plug (green wire) to the tach. If that's good, it may indicate a bad tach. Am I'm I thinking about this right? Trying to learn. Your videos are the best!
Thank you! Perfect timing on this video. I am dealing with a crank but no start condition on my YJ. This helps a lot and gives me a few more things to check out.
What was the issue?
@@alexmozingo8972 mine was the distributor failed. Twice. Duralast Gold, not so great
Whats the next step if you get no constant current when checking the white wire. The green gets voltage when cranking
Would love to see a video on replacing the long coil pack with a viper coil, and how to build the bracket and where to install it on TJ/LJ
I have access to 2 TJs. They aren't mine so I'm kinda limited to what mods I can do to them.
My Jeep is a 88 2.5 and I have a Skip and I cannot figure it out any suggestions everything's testing good
Much appreciated for these videos. They definitely help.
your video is amazing im not getting any action on my signal wire. what could that be thanks for the help
If i have no constant power at the coil what causes that
Still trying to figure out my no spark/no start on my 92 YJ. Probing the ASD relay using a test light on pin 86 shows a dim light, whereas on pin 85 has very bright light. Would it be possible the dim light is caused by a grounded wire somewhere?
thanks for your great videos...my yj is a fine running machine thanks to you....you really look like Billy Joel...
thank you this helped me with my xj
I don't have 12V constant, but the signal wire is around 10.5V while cranking. Any idea what the issue could be?
I do have signal when I turn key to ON but it goes off when cranking. ECU has 12v to it and continuity from coil wire to ECU.
Ok, I'm here searching for tips and help me solve a gremlin in my no start situation. I have a 92 2.5l 5 sp manual fuel injection YJ. Short story, a few weeks ago I was on the trail, nothing crazy mind you and it just decided to stop dead in its tracks. Try to start, didn't hear the fuel pump so I figured it went out, had it towed to camp, drop the tank, new fuel pump still no go. Now all the troubleshooting begins. Checked Relays, fuses all good, changed ignition switch, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, ignition coil pick/cam sensor, CPS, ECU all changed. Still no spark! Started probing and checking wires. The ECU is sending signal to the coil. When I turn the key on, the test light lights up, but goes away with cranking, no pulsing like in your video. The other wire as in your video should have 12v full time or just when key is on? either way there is no 12v at the other terminal of the coil plug when probed. I did the test on the coil as in your video, all readings are good! The fuel rail pressurizes and holds at 31, all lights, accessories, radio, dome, turn, brake, running lights, everything works. I'm just not getting spark and for the life of me can't figure out why. I am here looking for something that I have not yet tested, changed or figured out yet. So, all you YJ peeps here I am looking for guidance. I've had this Jeep 13 years now and been really good overall. This time, it has me baffled! HELP!
12v full time, the signal wire closes the circuit and triggers the ignition pulse.
@@whosestone I must have some sort of shorted circut somewhere. I've replaced everything related. Still no spark! I don't know what else to check. No burnt or melted wiring anywhere.
@@klb1956 does the cap on the dizzy touch??
@@whosestone no
@@whosestone you mean the rotor touch the cap. I'm not getting spark from the coil.
I have a no start issue right now and I don’t have spark. I’ll be testing the coil tomorrow. What is high for the resistance when I check it to diagnose that it’s a bad coil?
i need help mani got a 90yj with an electric distribuitor, how do i get my tachometer to work, i've already change it but still it does not give me any signal on the gauge
Hello there i have jeep wrangler 1993 automatic trans my fuel pump when is Somers time starting right away I want is Kohler I need to open the ignition switch for at least 20 minutes and then my feel pump you can hear the click. Do you have an any idea why please help me
So i have a 98 xj that has a misfire in #2 fuel injector. Tested injector and checks out fine has same voltage as the rest. When I checked the ignition coil on the primary side I found it to be at 1.5 holmes which its supposed to be between 0.9 - 1.20 holmes. Im wondering if the high resistance is causing the misfire. What are your thoughts?
the best on the tube !!!
Thank you!! Glad you enjoy the video!!
I put a new remanufactured engine in and no spark. Checked all the way to ICM. Have 3 wire going to the plug for the ICM. Yellow 12 volts, black 4 volts and Green/white 12 volts key on postion, no pulse when though when i crank. Brand new ICM. Any suggestions?
So I have 12 v on the white and pulse on the green. The ohms on the coil seem to be good swapped the cam sensor from the old engine still no spark. Also new cap and rotor. Still no spark on the wires. So is it a bad coil wire?
Mine has signal but not constant power. The crank sensor tested good what you think.... is a 91 yj
96 jeep cher classic 4.0 ... my coil "out of jeep" on meter is at 6.5 omz .. is that bad?
Hey! Love your videos. I know this is an older video. Hoping you’re checking these comments and can offer some advice. 94 YJ. I’m getting 12v at the coil connector but no spark to the distributor. Coil is brand new. Jeep sat for 2 weeks over Christmas. Ran fine before I parked it. Now I’ve got crank but no start. Any ideas?
Check the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. It is not too uncommon for the crankshaft sensor to just randomly quit. Hope that helps and you get it figured out quickly. Thanks for being part of the Power Addicts Crew!!
Changed it and it fired right up!! Now it runs very rough though. Stays running but sputters and shakes quite a bit. Given all I’ve changed out recently (CPS, plugs, wires, rotor, dist. cap, coil), any ideas on why it would be running so rough?
Damn, brother, get a slingshot for that bird! lol. Seriously, thanks for this. Very well done.
Birds always wait until I start the camera up .. then .. the chirping starts! LOL Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope it helped!
So when you put your test light on the probe on the green wire where is the test light clamp attached? I never hear you say where.
From the lack of replys here, maybe the doctor is out! Sure you've figured it out already since this is an old post. The clamp on the test light goes to the negative on the battery. As he shows in the video, prob the connector with a wire, maybe a paperclip would work, and twist it around the test light probe. Crank the engine to see if it lights up. Mine only lit up when I turned the key on and didn't pulse like in his video. I'm chasing a no spark situation on my YJ posted above.
So glad I found this video - got to troubleshoot my Jeep XJ 98 tomorrow. I was running car for a while with a failing spark plug lead leading to misfire on acceleration. Was starting fine tho. Replaced all leads, new dizzy cap, new rotor but now getting a crank/no spark! Getting a P0340 code too - you think I might have fried my Dizzy/camshaft position sensor or Ignition Coil?
A bad dizzy or camshaft position sensor will cause any and all of those issues. Check to make sure you didnt knock the plug off somehow to the cam & crank position sensor or coil.Also just for something else to check low battery voltage can cause these issues as well. Although very rare .. but I have seen where a battery was going bad that as the engine is being turned over, it pulled the battery voltage down so low the crank or cam position sensor doesn't trigger ignition. Take your battery in to have it checked at an auto parts store. Or, Hook a volt meter to your battery and check the voltage as the engine is being turned over. As the engine is turning over, battery voltage should not fall below 9.6ish volts. Hope this helps! Good luck and have a great day!
Ignition coil has no Spark but according to multimeter is good - just shows buying parts based on hunch & not evidence ( already ordered new Ign coil ) isn't always wise! Next will do input & battery tests you suggested. Looks like I'm probably looking at a bunk Dizzy pick up coil or CPS. Appreciate you taking the time to reply as I can't afford to go to a repair shop atm - thanks mate!
My ohms meter on my ignition coil on the two post is reading zero is that mean it's not getting anything but when I turn my ignition and I stick my test light and night green wire it's showing that it's given signal. I have been working on this motor I've been through for ignition coils I got a brand new distributor in it I'm just stopped. I am not getting fire or sometimes I get fire and it burns ignition coil up
hey there. so cleaned all the grounds. (even added one for good measure.) new coil put on. new cap and rotor.
currently not getting spark on 2 and 3. swapped wires to validate. my thought is cam sensor not telling coil when to throw spark. hints?
+Charles Davis Kinda remote .. but that could be a possibility. Typically when either cam or crank position sensor goes. They are done. But just possibly those particular post/points withing the sensor could be faulty. But that would be the first Ive ever heard of that. One way to possibly confirm would be to check the coil trigger wire. Here is the link to get there easily: ua-cam.com/video/7SM8T1JqTtU/v-deo.html . When the trigger wire is sending the voltage pulse to the coil, it should be consistent. If there is an interruption in the signal there will be skipping of the coil signal. You really need to use a test light for this. It really just drives a multimeter nuts.
+Charles Davis Also, check to make sure you crank shaft position sensor is tight and not wiggling around. The cam sensor main job is to sync fuel pulses with spark pulses. The crank sensor is really the "when to sent voltage" cop. Also, I mentioned in the other reply about certain points in the cam sensor possibly being bad. The area that triggers the sensor is the pulse ring that spins above the sensor (The rotor button sits on it). Check also that the distributor cap isnt scratched on the inside causing the spark to jump. Look for dark/burnt spots where there shouldn't be any.
...........1987 to 1995 ignitiom system.............'' . The ignition system in a 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ is quite interesting. It primarily
uses a **distributor-based system** to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber¹.
Here are some key components and their functions:
- **Distributor**: This mechanical device is driven by the camshaft and is responsible for directing high voltage from the ignition coil to the correct cylinder¹.
- **Ignition Coil**: Converts the battery's low voltage to the thousands of volts needed to create an electric spark in the spark plugs².
- **Spark Plugs**: Ignite the air-fuel mixture in the engine's cylinders².
- **Ignition Wires**: Carry the high voltage from the distributor to the spark plugs².
Thanks for the advice just picked up 90 keep Cherokee 4x4 straight 6.changed cam sensor didn't help got it to fire off drive down rd ran good died got back to shop pulled plug and checked for fire no fire
Sound more like its the crank position sensor. Here is the video for that. The Cherokee sensor may a bit different. The principle is still the same. ua-cam.com/video/5QWJlb2Uf08/v-deo.html
Power Addicts - FixJeeps.com - Jeep, car and motorcycle tips csps was first thing I changed out.
csps was first thing I changed out my coil is only reading 3.5
Having a issue my Jeep no start. Checked the crank position sensor how you showed too in your other video and it seems good. Checked for spark and nothing. You say I should have a constant 12 volts to the plug that connects to coil but I don’t.. and when I check with the wire in the connector and the test light.. the light will flash twice and that’s it not matter how long I turn it over for. Coil is showing 1.4 on the plug connection side and 11.7 on the other side. Do you have ideas what’s going on here?
The only reading I get when checking for resistance on the crank position sensor is 59.5
hi, commented on your crank position sensor video about starting issues with my jeep. Tested the coil and i have a primary reading of 0.20 and secondary of 10.15. Do you think those readings are extreme enough to be the cause of the non start? thanks.
Primary is really low. Secondary is pretty low also. Even if it didn't cause a no start. Id still replace the coil, it is detective. You will be paid back in better fuel mileage if nothing else. Have u checked for fuel pressure yet? In order of diagnosis, I typically check spark then fuel. At times you can have a weak spark yet still run depending on how weak the spark is. No or weak fuel pressure will cause a no start also. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the great video. You are a very good teacher. I own a 95 jeep wrangler and all of a sudden have problem with engine. It cranks, but no spark and no check engine light. Based on your youtube videos and others, it could be cps, or ecm. However, I decided to check this video on coil as I am not sure I am getting proper meter readings to/from coil. After viewing your video, I will recheck the readings. I am wondering if the coil could be the issue if I can crank, but no spark and no check engine light?
With no check engine light, that makes me lean toward the ECU. Even with a dead coil you should get the CEL in the dash.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to explain things so well. Quick question with the coil check. When you say constant power on that white wire are you saying with the ignition off or on ? I can only get the 12 volts after I turn the ignition. Please clarify and thanks for all the informative videos you do.
Sorry about the ridiculously slow reply. UA-cam comments just now made your comment available. Didnt know it was there till now. Thats ignition turned on. Glad you like the videos. Thanks for handing out with me! Have a great day!!
Hey buddy, I have a quick question for you. I have a 98 wrangler that I stalling out after it warms up. It cuts out while driving or sitting I’ve already changed the crank sensor, and cleaned the idle control valve sensor with no luck. Any ideal with it might be?
Possible O2 sensor, my dads 06 TJ did something similar. Also the water temp sensor in the thermostat water neck. Air temp sensor in the intake. Honestly, that is one of those things that cant really be diagnosed without really being there. There are several things that could cause that. Good luck! Wish I could have given you better direction. Thanks for checking out the video! Have a great day!
Whats the next step if your not getting a signal to the green wire
What part of TN do you live in. I heard you mention Chattanooga. I used to live in Cleveland back in the day.
Im about 35 miles North of Nashville.
I know this is an older video but what if you don't get the 12v constant from the pcm? The pcm seems fine and the only codes I get from the dash is 12 and 55. Which basically means the battery has been disconnected lately and end of code
Time to start tracing the wires from the ecm. Have fun and good luck 👍
I get 12 V on my green wire as well (without turning the key, but in the ignition)? Any thoughts?
The signal pulls the12V to ground in order to excite the coil.
you live in nashville? Saw ur climb nashville sticker, my jeep looks exactly like yours for a second there i thought you were the previous owner lol
Sorry about the slow response. UA-cam didn't alert me of this comment. I live near Nashville, not really in. I haven't been back to Climb Nashville in a while. Fun place to get a serious workout! I purchased my Jeep from a little town in East Tennessee. Have a great day!!
Man I got a weird issue with my 1991 2.5 YJ. It'll start and run, die, won't start. Let it sit for a week or two and it starts right up runs great. Other then being a 91 jeep, any ideas
Crankshaft position sensor would be the first thing I'd check.
@@Poweraddicts I have replaced it twice threw this round. I'm seriously thinking of making the jeep analog distributor and carburetor. We live in American Samoa, it's swampy to say the least. I look at replacing the pcm that's $350.00 + already done the cps distributor plug wires cap and rotor, mapp sensor, fuel filter. Three coils, finally figured how to test(threw your video) all three of those are good. Driving me nuts man.
94 wrangler yj i replaced cap roter and coil still no spark from coil could the coil be bad straight out of the box new? Its driving me crazy
It's rare but I've seen it happen. It could also be your crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor went bad. Both parts are cheap and doesn't hurt to keep extras with you stored in the rig somewhere. If it's not either of the sensors then you will have to check the voltage coming from the PCM that charges the coil. One simple diagnostic for PCM is simply turn your key on and watch for the check engine light to come on. If it never lights up after turning the key on, good chance the PCM is bad. Hope that helps!! Have a great day!
@@Poweraddicts yes im repacing the cps today and no the check engine light never comes on
i only have about 3v going to the constant side of the coil. Is this a wiring issue ?
+giff steve Cound be wiring or PCM (computer). Also check the voltage going to the Crank Position Sensor. Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/5QWJlb2Uf08/v-deo.html
Should the readings be the same for an 89 4.0 ignition coil?
the '89 is still the Renix system, so they may be different since the coil, computer, distributor, etc are different.
i have a 1997 grand cherokee no start replaced the coil and crank sensor..tested the coil with a test light no voltage at all..where do i go from here..
Sound like the computer is bad if you aren't getting voltage to the coil.
is their a way i can test the computer for power
Hey boss great video thank you I have a question for you I have a 4.0l with spark to the coil but no spark coming out of my distributor what could be the cause any ideas
you have a link for the multimeter you use in all your videos?
+VinoPianoMan Here ya go. www.fixjeeps.com/jeep-ignition-coil.html Toward the bottom of the web page. Thanks for checking out my videos!! Have a great day!!
It appears to be a John Deere 😁
So my green wire on coil is getting constant power all the time what could be the problem
You ever figure this out?
What part of Tennessee are you , I'm a Tennessean myself, east Tennessean that is
North of Nashville, about 15 minutes to the Kentucky line.
Hey man I would love to pick your brain on my 1993 jeep yj
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Thank you sir
You are welcome! Thanks for checking out the videos.
Would a bad crank sensor cause a no start scenario as well?
Yep it would! Here is the video for the CPS: ua-cam.com/video/5QWJlb2Uf08/v-deo.html . Hope it helps! Have a great day!
Hey thanks man, I figured that's what it was, took the sensor off and sure enough the wires were bad. Had a sensor from an jeep two years before but sure enough it was a different plug
Yea .. depending on what year, its either a round plug or the flat one. Luckily they aren't crazy expensive.
Yeah they were actually both flat but the yj and tj are different. I was tempted to try and splice the old plug in but a new ones like 10 bucks
The early YJs were round, mine is.
Is this for 4.0 or 4.2
Its a 4.0
What if there is no power to the coil?
Ignition switch,,hot wire not getting hot to kick to coil 4 spark
where do you find the proper ohm figures??
I have the service manual for the YJ and XJs.
I have a Haynes manual for the XJ. I'll probably have to pick up the real thing. Do you have a good source? Many thanks.
I have no idea. I got lucky and ran across this copy. On my website www.fixjeeps.com/ I have many of the sensors listed. I think the only one I need to do it the cam shaft position sensor.
I have signal power but not constant power. Please help
You have a break in the wire somewhere. Or, the Jeeps computer has gone out. Pull the wire wrap off and start tracing the wire back to the computer. Look for anyplace where the wire has been burned or frayed. Once you trace the wire back to the computer, back probe that wire while still plugged into the computer and key in the "ON" position to see if you are getting power out of the computer. If you are, there is a problem with the wire somewhere. If you are not, the computer is bad.
Thanks for the response I'll try that. But I tried directing power to that line from the battery but still nothing.
It will not start after putting power directly to the "full time on" wire? If thats true and you said above that you have signal power. you got a bad coil.
what would happen if you don't have signal?
+Johnathan Baena No signal .. the coil doesn't know when to fire. Check the Crankshaft position sensor next .. here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/5QWJlb2Uf08/v-deo.html . After that the camshaft position sensor, unfortunately I haven't made the video for that yet. Those sensor happen to test good .. then its either a bad wire or Jeep computer (PCM) going bad. Hope this helps. Good Luck. Have a great day!
Hey man! Thanks so much, the crankshaft is fine but what wires could've gone wrong?
My coil looks nothing like that , I have a 90 with 2.5
What if I am not getting the 12 votes
+jeff gilbreath You will have to trace the wire back to the PCM to see which pin it goes to. Check if there is voltage coming from there. If there is voltage at the computer, you have a wiring issue. If there is no voltage, PCM is bad. Hope that helps. Have a great day!
is there any way to add a kill switch to the white constant power wire? I have a manual yj and fear for its safety.