HOW TO CLEAN A CLIMBING ROUTE!! (POV)
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- this is how I like to clean a climbing route! whatever you climb up there and then you're done climbing you have to get all of your gear back so this is how I like to clean a climbing route! this is how I like to clean a climbing route! this is how I like to clean a climbing route!
This is legit fascinating. I've always wondered how climbers get the ropes back and I guess I thought they just left them there, but that didn't make sense. This video answers so many questions for me.
Sometimes on tight chains you have to do it like this, but if you pass a bight through the chains & tie an 8 on a bight, it’s impossible to drop the rope and you never come off belay
rock on dude no pun intended.
Good lookin knots!
Haha thanks buddy!!
Hey man I think this video has a couple of unsafe practices in it. For one you faced the carabiners on the draws facing each other, which can lead to them either unclipping or interacting unexpectedly. Also your gear loop isn’t rated for falls, so if something fails on your anchor you are going to have a death risk. I think it would have made much more sense for you to clip a draw into the bolt and pass a figure 8 on a bight through the rings before taking yourself off of the anchor draws then get lowered off the rings. Having the rope and two draws through those rings is going to lead to some weird stuck situations for people who don’t expect it
That is definitely one way of doing it. Massive faff and a weird order of operations IMO. Just get a sling or Petzl connect or a sling and connect to a hanger. Then take some slack rope and pp it through the chains/rings (what ever fixed gear is there) and then overhand loop/fig 8 on a bite (what ever you prefer) back onto your gear loop. This way you don't have to tie your rope onto your leg loop in case you drop it when untying. This way you are secured 3 ways - Your original gear loop, your sling, and the bite through the gear. Then just untie, pull rope through, weight rope and unclip your sling. Boom. No hassle of trying to get your waist up to the fixed gear, and with a sling you have much more movement. But great video, and very informative. Keep up the good work dude!
Many ways to skin a cat!! thanks for sharing yours as well!! Happy climbing!! Stay tuned!!
How do you clean a route if you don’t reach the anchors?
Sadly you gotta bail off of a quickdraw
I personally would rather fifi in to the quickdraws using an extra quickdraw or 2, call for slack, and pass a bight through the quicklinks, tie a figure eight on a bight, and clip to my belay loop, then untie my original tie in knot. This way, you remain redundant while you clean, and when the belayer takes you on again, the pressure of the rope doesn't make it difficult to pull the quickdraws out, though you will still have to pull 2 out since the quickdraws are clipped directly to the quicklinks in this scenario. It is simpler, quicker, and safer.
Yep, in-direct with quickdraws is quick and simple. I personally always use this in single pitch sport. Like others have said though, passing the bight through, tying the 8 on a bight, clipping it to your belay loop w/ a locker, then untying your original knot is considered best practice, especially with big beefy quicklinks and rap rings. You never come off belay. Another word of caution: consider clipping your in-directs into the top of your anchor draws instead of the anchors themselves. By raising your knot above the anchors, you risk the rope unclipping itself once you lower back down. In general, you should never raise your waist above the anchor.
hey dude that was awesome! thanks for the awesome content! maybe some locking carabiners would make it safer
Heyo!! Your totally right!! Thanks for the feedback!! 🎉
@@zekearledge1523 ofcourse! i just want you to be safe!
How screwed would you be if you accidentally released the rope to the ground?
Very
I do it the same as you do, but I usually prefer to pass a bight through the rings (or quicklinks) to secure the rope to the harness. This way I am never really off belay. Even so, there are cases in which the way you show here is preferable - for example whenever a bight would hardly pass thru the rings or quicklinks.
Sometimes a tidy, visually clean way of doing things is preferable to the maximum absolute redundancy, because we are pretty tired when we get up there and even if we pay attention we are still a little bit more prone to making mistakes.
For someone who is going climbing outside for the first time in a couple weeks (with a guide) this is very informative and helpful . Great video , thank you!
Hey I'm glad you found it informative!! There's so many ways to clean a route and this way is the most efficient for me!!
Why is the rope just on the dirt and the belayer is standing on it? I'm just getting back into climbing after a bit, but I remember keeping the rope clean and handling it with care being important.
Because we don't give a shit! Gooooory gooory what a helluva way to gooooo!!!!!
Dude that was sick!
Hey, is this at Alberton? Easy Rider?
Had no idea this was MT, but at the end I said hey, that tree and cave-let look familiar!
You know it brotha!! Usually all my vids are based in Mt!!!
Have you climbed abes a b*tch!??? Or the crack climb there!?? Or the one by the river on the south side!?? All of those are bomber I highly recommend for after work climbs!!
@@zekearledge1523 No... I'm pretty new to climbing, and I'm old, keep to the easier stuff.
Alberton is so perfect because it has easy routes and hard routes!! Keep on climbing!!
i’m a new outdoor climber here. i heard that metal on metal created abrasions that could cut the rope. when the rope passes through the ring will it get cut because the quickdraws have also been clipped to the ring?
Great question!! I cannot speak for every set of changs but usually it'll be okay as long as you carefully check it by running you finger through the links!!
Metal wears down over time due to small particles (mainly dust) acting as an abrasive between a device that you’re running and a rope that’s going through it. All you have to do is inspect the gear before climbing or rappelling off of it, but the rings that people use to set fixed anchors are set to last for decades at least. The quickdraws will not harm the rings unless you’re sliding them back and forth deliberately to do so. Also metal on metal will only be a problem long term due to galvanic corrosion but that takes weeks and weeks of different metals touching each other
Just what I'd do instead:
- obvs use locking carabiners instead (I use a sling, girth hithed onto my belay loop, with a locking carabiner)
- draws should be clipped into the bolts, not the masons
- stopper knot closer to your figure of 8 knot
All three points can be neglected. Two non locking draws are totally fine. Draws can be clipped to the mailons, no reason to not do it. Maybe more convenient the one or other way sdepending on circumstances. Figure of 8 does not need a stopper.
Read alpinesavvy. Rather than UA-cam comments. )