Thing with a bearing on the end is for bumping stock while it's turning to make it run true. The Jacob's chuck looks like it is set up to run in the 3 or 4 jaw to hold milling cutters when you are using the milling attachment. Watch Mr. Pete for hundreds of videos on that lathe, I think he has them labeled as Atlas, which is the same, they made them for Sears, he has an entire series on it. (btw, that doesn't look like a Precision Matthews like we talked about :D lol) congrats on the score.
It's not a PM as we discussed, maybe a stepping stone. The Jacobs chuck can thread directly onto the headstock. For milling. Id still like a small mill like a bigger benchtop version too. I too have found Mr Pete's videos.
@@JoeMalovich Never use a drill chuck to hold end mills. They're too hard and will walk out of the chuck or the chuck can come off its arbor if it's pressed onto a taper. Drill chucks aren't accurate enough for milling. A decent small used benchtop mill is the Emco F1. Upside on that is it uses #30 taper tooling like some much bigger mills so it's readily available and not too costly. Downside is the table has no center T slot so that can lead to some creativity being needed for setups. If you want new, costs less than $1K and has a three slot table there's the Grizzly G0781. It has an R8 spindle so there's tons of inexpensive tooling available and with a TTS collet it can use TTS style quick change toolholders. It would definitely be much better than using the milling attachment on the lathe. Grizzly has a store in Springfield, MO.
@@greggv8 thanks for the suggestions, I'd like something a little larger but easier to transport than a bridgeport. I already have a sherline CNC mill but it's uselessly small for me and I don't want to run into the same problems
Clean everything, organize it, coat it so it doesn't rust, make a very sturdy, substantial stand instead of the wood, get a manual, get an instruction video series from Mr. Pete222; go slow and have fun. Clean that motor or change it out. As suggested by others, don't sell anything until you have had a chance to use it and see if you really don't need it. All of the extra items are worth what you paid for everything. You could make parts for your turbine experiments off the lathe.
Thats a very fair price - I have several lathes, including an old Craftsman/ Atlas - ADVISE: Dont sell ANYTHING from that stuff, you'll regret it!!! TONS of parts available for that lathe at least - very small and underpowered, you cant take huge cuts as they arent rigid at all - but still very capable to make small, simple items - really good for spacers, bushings, etc. Not good at all as a Mill, even the cheapest Chinese Mini Mill is better than an Atlas lathe with a milling attachment (even then, DONT sell the milling attachment, you'll regret it) The collets are for the spindle with the Chuck removed- you dont use collets in the TAILSTOCK - Start Watching Tubalcain's (Mr Pete222) videos on Atlas and craftsman lathe operations - (play them at 1.5x speed, he talks very slow) First thing you'll want to do is make a better stand for it, as the wooden one lacks rigidity and a firm base is what that little flex-flyer will need! Start looking around for a heavy metal desk or make one out of welded Bed-frame angle iron or even tubing - the correct original factory stand for that was mostly cast iron and heavy and helped firm it up a LOT - the table from a "Gang Drill Press" would be best, but most guys scarf them up fast, just see what you can find - youre on the right track with the back gear / Bull gear - just be careful, even tho parts are cheap you dont want to break anything
I realized that I misspoke while editing the video, I didn't even realize I was doing it. Tailstock is of course the correct term. It's been a few years since I've used a lathe. It might be overkill but I think a concrete base would be a good idea, or a concrete table on a steel stand.
Concrete base unless it's reinforced might break over time with the vibration it seems to have. I would trust a welded steel base a whole lot more and easier to do if you have a welder or a friend with one. Just copy the wooden design in steel. 2'' tubing with 1/8" wall will be enough. Great find for cheap for everything you got.
@@JoeMalovich A rigid base that won't flex, and getting the lathe solidly mounted so the bed is flat without bow or twist, is essential for this type of lathe. You'll be able to take cuts a bit deeper than if the lathe has to hold itself in alignment. That wood stand will allow the bed to flex if you try to cut too deep. Know anyone with access to a really long surface grinder or milling machine? A big chunk of U channel steel a bit wider than the lathe feet, with the flat side made smooth and flat, would go a long way toward stiffening the lathe.
@@greggv8 my FIL does gravestones, I could probably get a chunk of granite 6" thick and with the proper dimensions for cheap. His don't come flat like a surface plate but I expect it to need shimming anyways.
very nice find! i wouldnt get rid of any of that stuff with it at all! if it was sold with it then its relevant to it, regardless of appearence! now you just need something to organise it all... and a heavy duty metal stand!
Have exactly the same lathe but I installed the quick change gear.. it make a huge difference... If you plan to change the motor... Please.. consider to donate it to some one that don't have one!! They are awesome... If you are patient enough.. .I'm totally stunt to see the price!! you probably get it out of the hands of some one that either or don't care or don't know what they have!! On ebay that lathe sells for 1500 all day long! I honestly hope you don't sell it I have done probably tents or thousands of dollars with that same exactly machine. you can tight the gives to increase precision...it is a really good machine!! Wish you the best!!
@@JoeMalovich sorry, not food blue but cold blue. I fixed it. 😂 Phosphoric acid is very cheap and does a lot of work for you, that you don't have to. Or you just throw it in water with some soda and use electricity from the hydro setup 😙🎶
A Craftsman. Not the best but far from the worst. I hope it has... yup, has the quick change gearbox. Motor is definitely shot. If you can get a 1/2 horsepower 3 phase motor and a 110 volt VFD you'll find it much nicer to use. Don't listen to anyone who says the flat ways are crap. They're just fine on a light duty small lathe like this. When you get it cleaned up, look for a line down the middle of the top of the ways. Hopefully there isn't one or if there is that it's really hard to see. That's the mark of wear on these. It looks like it wasn't abused, no crash marks on the carriage and no broken teeth on the die cast gears. Join this mailing list for Atlas and Craftsman lathes. It's the best resource there is for them. groups.io/g/atlas-craftsman/topics $275 for a 12x36 that only needs a good motor and cleaning and had a bunch of tooling? Man, you stole it. ;)
Keith Rucker, at VintageMachinery.org (has UA-cam channel) might spend some time with you letting you know what exactly you have and what you need to do to get things working reasonably well.
Mr Rucker is a very busy man, I don't want to bother him with stuff that already exists online. I have some schooling on a lathe and I'm mechanically inclined. Also I've been a member of owwm.org for 11 years now.
Joe Malovich i think i'd approach the guy! he may be a useful contact! you may even be able to do weird and wonderful stuff with what he knows! passing thought... maybe he may have an out of use stand for it OR a contact whos selling a milling machine...
Whatever you paid you got a great deal with all that tooling! Nice find indeed.
Awesome Joe! This should definitely make for some really great content! I truly look forward to it
Thats a fun new.. old tool!
Thing with a bearing on the end is for bumping stock while it's turning to make it run true. The Jacob's chuck looks like it is set up to run in the 3 or 4 jaw to hold milling cutters when you are using the milling attachment. Watch Mr. Pete for hundreds of videos on that lathe, I think he has them labeled as Atlas, which is the same, they made them for Sears, he has an entire series on it. (btw, that doesn't look like a Precision Matthews like we talked about :D lol) congrats on the score.
It's not a PM as we discussed, maybe a stepping stone. The Jacobs chuck can thread directly onto the headstock. For milling. Id still like a small mill like a bigger benchtop version too. I too have found Mr Pete's videos.
@@JoeMalovich Never use a drill chuck to hold end mills. They're too hard and will walk out of the chuck or the chuck can come off its arbor if it's pressed onto a taper. Drill chucks aren't accurate enough for milling. A decent small used benchtop mill is the Emco F1. Upside on that is it uses #30 taper tooling like some much bigger mills so it's readily available and not too costly. Downside is the table has no center T slot so that can lead to some creativity being needed for setups. If you want new, costs less than $1K and has a three slot table there's the Grizzly G0781. It has an R8 spindle so there's tons of inexpensive tooling available and with a TTS collet it can use TTS style quick change toolholders. It would definitely be much better than using the milling attachment on the lathe. Grizzly has a store in Springfield, MO.
@@greggv8 thanks for the suggestions, I'd like something a little larger but easier to transport than a bridgeport. I already have a sherline CNC mill but it's uselessly small for me and I don't want to run into the same problems
Clean everything, organize it, coat it so it doesn't rust, make a very sturdy, substantial stand instead of the wood, get a manual, get an instruction video series from Mr. Pete222; go slow and have fun. Clean that motor or change it out. As suggested by others, don't sell anything until you have had a chance to use it and see if you really don't need it. All of the extra items are worth what you paid for everything.
You could make parts for your turbine experiments off the lathe.
Thats a very fair price - I have several lathes, including an old Craftsman/ Atlas -
ADVISE: Dont sell ANYTHING from that stuff, you'll regret it!!! TONS of parts available for that lathe at least - very small and underpowered, you cant take huge cuts as they arent rigid at all - but still very capable to make small, simple items - really good for spacers, bushings, etc. Not good at all as a Mill, even the cheapest Chinese Mini Mill is better than an Atlas lathe with a milling attachment (even then, DONT sell the milling attachment, you'll regret it)
The collets are for the spindle with the Chuck removed- you dont use collets in the TAILSTOCK -
Start Watching Tubalcain's (Mr Pete222) videos on Atlas and craftsman lathe operations - (play them at 1.5x speed, he talks very slow)
First thing you'll want to do is make a better stand for it, as the wooden one lacks rigidity and a firm base is what that little flex-flyer will need! Start looking around for a heavy metal desk or make one out of welded Bed-frame angle iron or even tubing - the correct original factory stand for that was mostly cast iron and heavy and helped firm it up a LOT - the table from a "Gang Drill Press" would be best, but most guys scarf them up fast, just see what you can find - youre on the right track with the back gear / Bull gear - just be careful, even tho parts are cheap you dont want to break anything
I realized that I misspoke while editing the video, I didn't even realize I was doing it. Tailstock is of course the correct term.
It's been a few years since I've used a lathe.
It might be overkill but I think a concrete base would be a good idea, or a concrete table on a steel stand.
Concrete base unless it's reinforced might break over time with the vibration it seems to have. I would trust a welded steel base a whole lot more and easier to do if you have a welder or a friend with one. Just copy the wooden design in steel. 2'' tubing with 1/8" wall will be enough. Great find for cheap for everything you got.
@@JoeMalovich A rigid base that won't flex, and getting the lathe solidly mounted so the bed is flat without bow or twist, is essential for this type of lathe. You'll be able to take cuts a bit deeper than if the lathe has to hold itself in alignment. That wood stand will allow the bed to flex if you try to cut too deep. Know anyone with access to a really long surface grinder or milling machine? A big chunk of U channel steel a bit wider than the lathe feet, with the flat side made smooth and flat, would go a long way toward stiffening the lathe.
@@greggv8 my FIL does gravestones, I could probably get a chunk of granite 6" thick and with the proper dimensions for cheap. His don't come flat like a surface plate but I expect it to need shimming anyways.
Joe Malovich Solid granite is a wet dream. They use granite for ultra stable laser tables and sensitive experiments. No harm in shimming it.
very nice find! i wouldnt get rid of any of that stuff with it at all! if it was sold with it then its relevant to it, regardless of appearence!
now you just need something to organise it all... and a heavy duty metal stand!
Have exactly the same lathe but I installed the quick change gear.. it make a huge difference... If you plan to change the motor... Please.. consider to donate it to some one that don't have one!! They are awesome... If you are patient enough.. .I'm totally stunt to see the price!! you probably get it out of the hands of some one that either or don't care or don't know what they have!! On ebay that lathe sells for 1500 all day long! I honestly hope you don't sell it I have done probably tents or thousands of dollars with that same exactly machine. you can tight the gives to increase precision...it is a really good machine!! Wish you the best!!
You need to give a good clean to energy thing and print out some organizers
Good score. Better keep it all
What is a metal lathe? It looks really cool but I have never heard of it before.
Its a machine tool for making round things out of metal.
think of a wood lathe... then swap wood for metal! basically, its what makes cool metal stuff! (yea ok, useless resoonse lol)
Here's a rabbit hole to fall down. ;) lathes.co.uk/
Hey Joe!
Hey Steve!
Good deal. Looks like you need a canister of phosphoric acid and some cold blue 😙🎶
maybe. Some wd40 and brillo pad will do most of it.
@@JoeMalovich sorry, not food blue but cold blue. I fixed it. 😂
Phosphoric acid is very cheap and does a lot of work for you, that you don't have to.
Or you just throw it in water with some soda and use electricity from the hydro setup 😙🎶
@@JoeMalovich Deep Creep and steel wool on the ways works great to remove crud and rust.
You didn’t buy that lathe, you stole it. Great find.
I got a set of the original cast iron legs that belong to that lathe
Where are you at? I might be interested in them
@@JoeMalovich jersey
@@JoeMalovich I just bought mine two weeks ago
In stupid Seattle that would be about $2500. Rusty lathe is $2000. Chunk of rusty metal shaped sort of like a lathe is $1500
wut? 275 bucks?
A Craftsman. Not the best but far from the worst. I hope it has... yup, has the quick change gearbox. Motor is definitely shot. If you can get a 1/2 horsepower 3 phase motor and a 110 volt VFD you'll find it much nicer to use. Don't listen to anyone who says the flat ways are crap. They're just fine on a light duty small lathe like this. When you get it cleaned up, look for a line down the middle of the top of the ways. Hopefully there isn't one or if there is that it's really hard to see. That's the mark of wear on these. It looks like it wasn't abused, no crash marks on the carriage and no broken teeth on the die cast gears. Join this mailing list for Atlas and Craftsman lathes. It's the best resource there is for them. groups.io/g/atlas-craftsman/topics
$275 for a 12x36 that only needs a good motor and cleaning and had a bunch of tooling? Man, you stole it. ;)
Keith Rucker, at VintageMachinery.org (has UA-cam channel) might spend some time with you letting you know what exactly you have and what you need to do to get things working reasonably well.
Mr Rucker is a very busy man, I don't want to bother him with stuff that already exists online. I have some schooling on a lathe and I'm mechanically inclined.
Also I've been a member of owwm.org for 11 years now.
Joe Malovich i think i'd approach the guy! he may be a useful contact! you may even be able to do weird and wonderful stuff with what he knows!
passing thought... maybe he may have an out of use stand for it OR a contact whos selling a milling machine...
Try to find an manual
For how common this page is there are manuals everywhere.
boring bars
how exciting!
@@JoeMalovich excitement with a metal lathe tends to happen when something goes wrong. ;)