Ok, so I replaced the clutch that Powersports of Vallejo (California) installed less than 500 miles ago. I removed the clutch pack and measured it. It was .5 mm short. Also the steel pkates were installed with the sharp edge in toward the motor. The last plate to the cover side was not offset into the other groove. Im no expert but I followed the install method on this video and my new Barnett clutch works great. I used Mobile 1 10/40 full syn. Motorcycle. I adjusted the clutch the same way and took it out for an easy break in. Afyer some shifting up through the gears and down. I applied some power! Wow what a difference! Smooth and effortless shifts with plenty of feel. Pulls hard and engages fully and disengages fully. When I got home the bike was at temp. The clutch was still behavi g in a normal fashion. Thank you again for the video. Im happy!
Good video brother! Thank you for the step by step. Only a couple parts you left out, right before the pressure plate the center rod mysteriously goes in. I missed it 1st time and had to take off the pressure plate to put the center rod in. And when you put the puller rod in, you didnt show how the spring goes. I had to pause the vid and try it in different positions. Finally in popped into my head. This is my 1st clutch on my 10r on my own. Believe it or not Kawasaki shop put in the clutch prior 1/2 a millimeter short on the clutch pack height. And the steel plates had the sharp edge in toward the engine. The clutch would get warm and start grabbing real hard, would not dissengage pulling at stop lights and I could not get it out of gear. I had to shut offbthe engine then shift into neutral. It did this several times after adjustment by them and myself. So I tore it down myself and inspected it. Steel plates were all blue after only maybe 500 miles. Now I dont take my bike to them. I would rather learn myself and save thousands! Thanks again.
After new clutch how many miles on break in period is that correct also to not go above 6,000 rpm or what is most accurate info on break in period ? ??? I have 2022 zx10r and at 1800 miles clutch went out and kawa not cover under warranty, go figure. Well what you think is miles or break in period should be. Sucks driving below 6 rpm but was told 500 miles maybe you different?
I don't break in clutches, I soak them in non synthetic oil before install and it's ready to go, I also use Castrol non synthetic oil as well, I used mobil1 synthetic oil one time and my clutch started to slip after 1 track day. Clutch also doesn't care if engine speed is 2k rpm or 13k rpm when it's engaged, also clutch lever has to be adjusted correctly, small amount of slack. This has been working for me personally.
Hi Man its me again when you have all the parts out of the clutch and going to build up,you start with the plain washer,in the manual they say first the stepped washer and put the stepped site inward Im a little confused now ,you are wrong or the manual????
So why haven't you installed the 2 small springs that go in after the first plate? I have 2 engines. One in the bike clutch as just gone its standards, the one off the bike is an ex superbike engine which I broke down... this has the clutch with the judder spring mod.
@@everydayirace OK thanks I was wondering, i think I'll put the judder spring into the engine thats on the bike now. My clutch has just gone so perfect time to do it
Hi Bro, I have question about the alternator installation. After I have engaged the silencing gears on the alternator shaft into the clutch basket teeths, do I push the alternator shaft all the way until the stop? Or adjust it to have the basket and the acg teeth exactly even?
So my outer basket and the gear when empty has a slight play like a 1mm click back n fort is it normal? also when you weld the rivets wouldnt it put it out of balance spinning 10k rpms? also the rod that pulls the clutch pack has shining polishes like a wear, also that has a 5mm play back and fort (for adjustment?) thanks
I put a new clutch in today, I didn't realise about the sharp and round edges of the plates. I havnt filled her back up with oil yet, should I take it apart again to check ? What would happen if they were the wrong way around ? I put a Surflex EBC clutch kit in with new springs.
You mentioned if the stack height is incorrect adjust by means of thicker or thinner steels. Where would one purchase a thinner/thicker steel. Seems like your gonna get whatever kawasaki sends. How would you specify thinner/thicker?
You can buy individual steel plates, they have different part numbers, for example 13089-1093 is marked with 2.9, so it means its thickness is 2.9 mm. You can look up all the part numbers on kawasaki dealerships online stores and can buy them there or ebay, amazon, etc.
That's going to make it worse. I usually remove clutch, measure clutch stack height, inspect fibers and steels, measure clutch spring rate and replace parts that aren't in spec.
I'm having issues reinstalling the puller shaft.( 05 zx10r) There is very little resistance and a bunch of slack in the cable. I'm wondering if a stack thickness issue would cause this. The video doesn't really show how you put it in. ive gone over so many videos and manuels idk what im doing wrong. unless its the stack not clearing something. i bought that tool today but now its late so i will try tomorrow. any advice would be most appreciated.
The outlaw racing kit says fits all 04 to 12* why would they send the wrong size. I did not know that with the 04 and 05 like mine theres a clutch cushion and I guess some of the steel plates are different sizes to compensate. If so, it's not anywhere I read, deffenetly not on the package. I'm hoping this is my issue as I've looked up, watched everyone else vids with no answers.
Aslo many others have had this issue. I see it on a few forms, theres a few videos out there showing it too. But I dont see anyone's answer, which leaves me to think it's something as silly as that.
@@theeanonymousk7172 in this video I installed a clutch after measuring clutch stack height, and as you can see clutch is working how it should, that makes me believe that if you install correct clutch exactly how I did, your clutch would work.
You absolutely do, I went ya these look new, those look old. Send. I'm confident I will have it together tomorrow. Also, what not use synthetic oil? Thanks you've been a big help I just somehow over looked the part where you say," if you dont get the stack height right you're gonna have clutch problems."
I drain oil, change oil filter, pull the oil pan down and clean oil pick up tube. Oil pick up tube can clog up with clutch material, and if it does, your engine's oiling system will be compromised.
Ok, so I replaced the clutch that Powersports of Vallejo (California) installed less than 500 miles ago.
I removed the clutch pack and measured it. It was .5 mm short. Also the steel pkates were installed with the sharp edge in toward the motor. The last plate to the cover side was not offset into the other groove. Im no expert but I followed the install method on this video and my new Barnett clutch works great. I used Mobile 1 10/40 full syn. Motorcycle. I adjusted the clutch the same way and took it out for an easy break in. Afyer some shifting up through the gears and down. I applied some power! Wow what a difference! Smooth and effortless shifts with plenty of feel. Pulls hard and engages fully and disengages fully. When I got home the bike was at temp. The clutch was still behavi g in a normal fashion. Thank you again for the video. Im happy!
Good video brother! Thank you for the step by step. Only a couple parts you left out, right before the pressure plate the center rod mysteriously goes in. I missed it 1st time and had to take off the pressure plate to put the center rod in. And when you put the puller rod in, you didnt show how the spring goes. I had to pause the vid and try it in different positions. Finally in popped into my head. This is my 1st clutch on my 10r on my own. Believe it or not Kawasaki shop put in the clutch prior 1/2 a millimeter short on the clutch pack height. And the steel plates had the sharp edge in toward the engine. The clutch would get warm and start grabbing real hard, would not dissengage pulling at stop lights and I could not get it out of gear. I had to shut offbthe engine then shift into neutral. It did this several times after adjustment by them and myself. So I tore it down myself and inspected it. Steel plates were all blue after only maybe 500 miles. Now I dont take my bike to them. I would rather learn myself and save thousands! Thanks again.
After new clutch how many miles on break in period is that correct also to not go above 6,000 rpm or what is most accurate info on break in period ? ??? I have 2022 zx10r and at 1800 miles clutch went out and kawa not cover under warranty, go figure. Well what you think is miles or break in period should be. Sucks driving below 6 rpm but was told 500 miles maybe you different?
I don't break in clutches, I soak them in non synthetic oil before install and it's ready to go, I also use Castrol non synthetic oil as well, I used mobil1 synthetic oil one time and my clutch started to slip after 1 track day. Clutch also doesn't care if engine speed is 2k rpm or 13k rpm when it's engaged, also clutch lever has to be adjusted correctly, small amount of slack.
This has been working for me personally.
Hi Man its me again when you have all the parts out of the clutch and going to build up,you start with the plain washer,in the manual they say first the stepped washer and put the stepped site inward Im a little confused now ,you are wrong or the manual????
Is it a certain way the springs got go in the clutch basket?
So why haven't you installed the 2 small springs that go in after the first plate? I have 2 engines. One in the bike clutch as just gone its standards, the one off the bike is an ex superbike engine which I broke down... this has the clutch with the judder spring mod.
Because I replaced them with a judder spring plate.....that's the upgrade for 06+ bikes if you didn't catch that part.
@@everydayirace OK thanks I was wondering, i think I'll put the judder spring into the engine thats on the bike now. My clutch has just gone so perfect time to do it
Hi Bro, I have question about the alternator installation. After I have engaged the silencing gears on the alternator shaft into the clutch basket teeths, do I push the alternator shaft all the way until the stop? Or adjust it to have the basket and the acg teeth exactly even?
So my outer basket and the gear when empty has a slight play like a 1mm click back n fort is it normal? also when you weld the rivets wouldnt it put it out of balance spinning 10k rpms? also the rod that pulls the clutch pack has shining polishes like a wear, also that has a 5mm play back and fort (for adjustment?) thanks
Thanks for your video. I know this is an older video but I was wondering where do you get the clutch mod from?
Thankyou
It's an oem 04-05 zx10r judder spring, Google the part number and you'll find it.
@@everydayirace oh yeah mo I bought that already I'm talking about that metal piece that goes around the springs that lock up the slipper
I put a new clutch in today, I didn't realise about the sharp and round edges of the plates. I havnt filled her back up with oil yet, should I take it apart again to check ? What would happen if they were the wrong way around ? I put a Surflex EBC clutch kit in with new springs.
If you don't want to know if the clutch steels were installed correctly, then don't take it apart.
You mentioned if the stack height is incorrect adjust by means of thicker or thinner steels. Where would one purchase a thinner/thicker steel. Seems like your gonna get whatever kawasaki sends. How would you specify thinner/thicker?
You can buy individual steel plates, they have different part numbers, for example 13089-1093 is marked with 2.9, so it means its thickness is 2.9 mm. You can look up all the part numbers on kawasaki dealerships online stores and can buy them there or ebay, amazon, etc.
cam I remove the judder spring and replace it with another friction plate if I have a problem with clutch slipping?
That's going to make it worse. I usually remove clutch, measure clutch stack height, inspect fibers and steels, measure clutch spring rate and replace parts that aren't in spec.
What brand and material are your clutches for your zx10r? I have a 2007 zx10r I'm looking to set up for drag racing
Ape brand.
Which year gsxr 1000 intake valve springs work for stiffer clutch springs? Thanks
01+
I'm having issues reinstalling the puller shaft.( 05 zx10r) There is very little resistance and a bunch of slack in the cable. I'm wondering if a stack thickness issue would cause this. The video doesn't really show how you put it in. ive gone over so many videos and manuels idk what im doing wrong. unless its the stack not clearing something. i bought that tool today but now its late so i will try tomorrow. any advice would be most appreciated.
You installed clutch without measuring stack height?
The outlaw racing kit says fits all 04 to 12* why would they send the wrong size. I did not know that with the 04 and 05 like mine theres a clutch cushion and I guess some of the steel plates are different sizes to compensate. If so, it's not anywhere I read, deffenetly not on the package. I'm hoping this is my issue as I've looked up, watched everyone else vids with no answers.
Aslo many others have had this issue. I see it on a few forms, theres a few videos out there showing it too. But I dont see anyone's answer, which leaves me to think it's something as silly as that.
@@theeanonymousk7172 in this video I installed a clutch after measuring clutch stack height, and as you can see clutch is working how it should, that makes me believe that if you install correct clutch exactly how I did, your clutch would work.
You absolutely do, I went ya these look new, those look old. Send.
I'm confident I will have it together tomorrow.
Also, what not use synthetic oil?
Thanks you've been a big help I just somehow over looked the part where you say," if you dont get the stack height right you're gonna have clutch problems."
20W50?!?!
I know the theory behind it, but doesnt it compromise the oil flow max, and makes the shifting rougher?
I use higher viscosity oils in engines with higher bearing clearances, transmission shifts the same with non-synthetic castrol 10w30 oil.
hard to find rubber clutch damper...where i can find it??
I have no idea what is rubber clutch damper.
What happened to the slipper springs
I removed them.
I assume you don’t ride track
@@DjCoffaro 1/4 mile track.
@@everydayirace ahh, that’s why you took them out
Do you have to drain oil?
alec meero I did, and let my friction plates soak overnight in an extra quart of same oil
I drain oil, change oil filter, pull the oil pan down and clean oil pick up tube. Oil pick up tube can clog up with clutch material, and if it does, your engine's oiling system will be compromised.
thanks
No problem.
I have brocks clutch mod is good?
Same thing, it eliminates slipper function. Judder spring makes the clutch much smoother.